Dan MARESCA : Weblog

BOND-FORD

Tue, 09 Dec 2008 20:50:30 GMT

This is hardly recent news because the film premiered several weeks ago. I am sorry to say that I am a laggard, but I still feel it's a worthy topic. Two of my favorite things have come together in this one project, BOND and all it's elements: luxury cars, gadgets, bond girls, and of course the clothes, which interestingly enough is the second thing--TOM FORD.

We all know that Ford (or maybe you didn't) was the creative director for the House of GUCCI, as well as YSL up until 2004. He had some differences with the head of the GUCCI GROUP, and as a result he launched his brand TOM FORD in 2006. He started with eyewear, and by Spring 2007, he opened his flagship store on Madison Ave.

Let's not forget about BOND. In Quantum of Solace, actor Daniel Craig looked dapper in all his ensembles due the synergy of the costume designer, and that of the TOM FORD house. His outfit changes were few, and quite classic to that effect. I understand over 400 of these bespoke suits were tattered up during the making of this film (I would have taken a slightly-worn one). This is astonishing considering "ready to wear" suits would probably equate to the sum of a small car. Let's get back to the classics. He wears dinner jackets and trousers (also known as Tuxedo) the lapels are generous and peaked, the jacket is classically on the longer side, but extremely well-fitted. Bond traditionally always wore white dress shirts or lightly pencilled stripe, or even powdered blue, but Craig was always in an impeccably white, spread collar dress shirt, which gave way to the generous silk ties. The idea here is for the width of the tie to be in proportion with the lapel of the jacket. The trousers are also in proportion to the jacket, pleated fronts with generous cuff and full cut at the leg balance out the silhouette, which is a signature of Ford's. Now, don't misconstrue things--I am also a huge fan of Connery and his 60s style silhouette, but Craig's style is much more fitting for his body. This guy is tough and muscular, and as smooth as Connery EVER was...this guy, Craig, is not only tough, but also very smooth. In every frame he is impeccable, one scene he's on a Regatta (boat) in what I imagine to be Sardinia or San Remo--somewhere in the Italian seas. Moving on, he's wearing a pair of nicely tailored flat front chinos, a very nautical-navy, cashmere, shawl collar sweater, along with some driver shoes and of course TOM FORD aviators! It's not just the suiting that's rich, it's everything--the only problem is that...well, only Bond and the few alike can shop in this boutique of UBER LUX!

Moncler: Santa ed.

Thu, 20 Nov 2008 05:31:38 GMT

Sunday I visited Soho in search for some Moncler (not that I can afford it) but I still wanted to check out the exorbitantly priced puffer so I went down to none other than Atrium. This store is definitely high-end and pricey! Apart from Moncler, they carry Parajumpers, and Canadian Goose--that's only for outerwear, they also have Ralph Lauren sportswear, Spiewalk jackets, and some AMQ. Did I mention Travota, J. Lindeberg, and more....the store has a bit of an L.A. vibe with a hip-hop royalty twist, after all, it is a denim oriented shop. I know times are tough, but the Soho store is sick! They have a great denim selection and I suggest you take a trip down to Soho and check it out. Oh and as far as the Moncler--"if you have the means, I highly suggest you pick one up" (Bueller).

Atrium

Check out their website to see all the brands they carry.

http://www.atriumnyc.com

644 Broadway (at Bleecker St.)

Nudie Jeans, $200

Moncler (Ultimate Lux Ski Gear)

Vanoise, $1,000 or so or so...

Tibet Vest, $5 hunny or six, def under seven

These come in all sorts of dynamic colors. i.e. bright red, orange, yellow, purple, etc...

http://www.moncler.it/

Maybe I'll sell my Mac or skip out on some car payments...or write to Santa Claus.

Fall Rainy Day

Wed, 29 Oct 2008 02:42:53 GMT

On rainy, New York, fall days, you need to be equipped with the right gear. Of course, you're going to need an umbrella and the right outer wear--that goes without say. in addition to those necessities, you will also need a good fall/winter-boot. This boot should not only keep your feet warm, but also keep you dry.

Band of Outsiders with Sperry Top-Sider, $389...kind of pricy, but great! It's the perfect marriage of the rugged-boot and the ever nautical "boat" shoe.

http://www.contextclothing.com

Another boot I really like is this gem from Red Wing; exclusively for J. Crew Liquor Shop. This store is in Tribeca, as previously posted.

Classic Irish Setter Boot, $325.

With this kind of footwear, I would suggest cuffing your pants to strategically show off your pseudo-vintage boot.

like this...

http://www.jcrew.com

Those are great to have as part of your arsenal, but on the REALLY rainy days you may need something more...

WELLINGTONS AND DUCK BILLS

I see all kinds of girls on the streets adhering to the rules, perhaps because they don't want to ruin their shoes, or far worst--want smelly shoes and smelly feet, or is it the other way around? Men should be doing the same thing. I sometimes neglect to check the weather (as many of us do, and as I did this past weekend) and needless to say, if you're wearing Chuck's--good luck keeping your feet dry. Luckily, those aren't too hard to replace and they do recover, after all--they're canvas!

Try these...it's okay to wear with Jeans, active wear (like sweats)--for extenuating circumstances i.e. walking dog, or even trousers from a suit.

Wellingtons, original $115, or the short stack $135. Can't go wrong with black or navy--for the more outdoorsy types, try the hunter green...

http://www1.bloomingdales.com

Quack, Quack...Duck Boots, love these things...

Ralph Lauren, Raleigh boot (high), $495 (Ouch)!

http://www.ralphlauren.com

Here is the original hunting boot from L.L. Bean...$99-$129 Gore-Tex/Thinsulate. They come in different sizes and colors, with lining options. Very functional and very fashionable--considering, it is the season of working, outdoorsy wear.

http://www.llbean.com

I personally have Original Penguin by Munsingwear...found them in NYC last year, bought them in the spring and they were a steal...it's always a good idea to shop off-season. You can get considerable discounts.

Black, short.

Eye-wear

Thu, 09 Oct 2008 04:05:01 GMT

In order to fly jets you need to have 20/20 vision. Unfortunately, I cannot fly jets, but what I can do is--accessorize eyewear. Some would say this is as difficult, if not harder than becoming a Top Gun. The right pair of glasses can be the finishing touch that amps up your style. The same pair of glasses are not suitable for everyone. Very much like clothing, there are guidelines to be taken into consideration. You need to be aware of your proportions and features. Be able to determine whether you have a wider or narrower bridge (nose). It is very important to see your brow ridge (line) otherwise you can fall victim to that alien look. Also, know the shape of your face, slender and triangular, oval, or squared-jaw. The frame colour is to be considered, as well as your skin tone (you do not want to be washed out). Are you dark, medium, olive, or fair complexion? in addition to skin tone, hair colour must be taken into account. After all the hard work and the decisions are made, you can now play with your preference--within the confines of the rules. Then you want to ask yourself, what statement do I want to make? Are you bold, are you an intellect, are you modest, are you modern, are you classic, or maybe a mix...?

Recently, I dropped my glasses in a stampede of mass commuters. Until this happened, I was very fond of my Sama glasses. Sama is a highly regarded, luxury eye-wear brand. As a matter of a fact, it's not sold anywhere in the northeast, an exclusive shop in Raleigh, NC carries the brand. You will also find them in St Louis, Chicago and Beverly Hills. They have also appeared in various movies i.e. T3's glasses--Sama, Colin Farrell's in Miami Vice--Sama. And of course, I'm wearing them in my current picture, lol.

http://www.samaeyewear.net/

Because of my misfortune I was left with no other choice, but to buy a new pair. I reached out to Moscot in NYC, where they not only have a great selection with great prices, but they also treated me with superlative customer service. I can be quite indecisive when it comes to high-involvement purchases like these. But by the time I explained my situation, took multiple photos from various angles with different styles and colours; using my iphone and emailing them to certain trustees, called my Dr. to fax over the prescription, I finally had it narrowed down to one style, but in three different colours! Long story short--got the black. It's bold, retro, classic, and very versatile--not too mention, very Mad Men.

Take a look--keep in mind the actual lenses won't reflect this much light and glare...

The runner up...($169) They're very modest as opposed to the Sama which start in the $300 range (frames only).

Moscot has three locations. The flagship store is on the corner of Orchard St and Delancey St. Another store is located on 14th St and 6th Avenue, and the third is in Queens--between Queens Blvd. and Austin in Forrest Hills. I made my purchase at the one on 14th St. It's right across from the train, conveniently.

Mad Men...

Lemtosh $169

Andy Warhol...retro crystal

http://moscot.com/locations.html

http://moscot.com/index.html

Fall Footwear

Tue, 30 Sep 2008 23:22:01 GMT

We are amidst fall, but I still see the not so rare summer shoe, or even worst--beach wear, encroaching in on the fall's shoe territory. Okay so it's a nice September or October day...what do you do? Instead of wearing the typical "boat" shoe (topsider), try a nice moc or driver. There are many options in this genre, an array of soft earthy colors i.e. khaki, olive, cinnamon, tobacco, cognac, chocolate, black and if you're really daring, plum or violet. You will find these shades in two textures--suede or leather. they can also differentiate by their styling details. Slip-on driver with a plain front, lace up, tassels, and penny. Don't degrade your footwear by shoving a penny in there!

Here are a few examples from Quoddy Trails, which are hand made in Maine $130-250 range.

Mocs

http://www.quoddytrail.com/

Drivers

Prada $410

http://www.barneys.com

J.Crew $128-135

http://www.jcrew.com

Ralph Lauren $395

Tassel

Suede Penny

http://www.ralphlauren.com

Tod's $345

http://www.neimanmarcus.com

Violet--dynamic and should go like this...no socks, weather permitting. Drivers go great with chino, corduroy, jeans, work pants, and suit trousers...

I have the Cognac, I bought them Aug 07 and have worn in beautifully...the trick is not to wear them in the rain (specially if you opt for the suede or calfskin) and once in a while give them a good shine with very little neutral polish or even just the brush. You don't want to distort the original beauty of the hide.

"Lots of luck, gentlemen"

--Harvey Keitel

-Pulp Fiction

Sunday, New York City

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:55:30 GMT

I've been meaning to have one of these days, where I explore the city outside my comfort zone in search for extraordinary clothing. This past sunday, I was granted the opportunity...I was already near the city-- in my home town. I had gone out with my brother and friends the night before in search for that elusive cool bar that's not too overpopulated with the masses. Unfortunately, the night was a complete failure. Apart from the melange of whiskey from the night before, I was feeling rather refreshed. I didn't go to bed too late and woke up at a decent hour. After my trip to the local deli for a panini, I delivered the disappointing news to my kin--I was not going to be able to watch football all day. I decided that it would be a waste to spend the day inside watching people be active (on a day like this--I do like sports). I took it upon myself to engage in activity. As I was planning out my path, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a phone call from a friend of mine. He expressed interest in my future endeavor and soon enough, I had a teammate for my expedition. Being that navigation would be a factor, I had modestly targeted three major locales. First on the list. J. Crew's Liquor Shop in Tribecca (I guess I sitll had drinkin' in the brain). Secondly, FSC, Freemans Sporting Club on Bowery just north of Chinatown. Thirdly, I wanted to end up at Rugby and experience the epicenter of Preppydom. I kept the schedule light just incase I got lost (not likely--since i'm like a Magellan) or more importantly, came across anything else interesting...I mean, I was walking from Tribecca via Grand St and basically, hitting every shop in Soho! The mindset was all about the fall, preppy, outdoorsy, vintage look at a reasonable price point. Naturally, I made room in the schedule for Hickey.

I was really impressed with this shop...the location is as great, as the atmosphere. This is not your ordinary J.Crew--it's more of a specialty shop boutique with checkout lines leading to a mahogany bar. The old school bar paraphernalia is major presence. You almost have to make an effort not to ask for a Johnny, neat. Aside from that, they carry exclusive Liquor Shop pieces both by J. Crew as well as other brands...i.e Levi's, special edition Red Wing boots, and a slew of vintage watches, such as: Omega and Rolex.

Perfect for rugged sports wear with city flair...

Oh, did I mention they have suits...and Macintosh jackets for rainy days.

This is where you order...I mean checkout!

And if you have the means please stop by and check it out for yourself! I cannot stress enough how cool this space is. Also great for vintage vests, desert boots, ties, shirts, belts, and are moderately priced.

New York Liquor Store
235 West Broadway NY 10013

212 226 5476

http://www.jcrew.com

While in Soho, I stopped in to see the hickey store. hickey is a spinoff the Rochester based company Hickey Freeman, which is a fine tailored, luxurious, and traditional lifestyle clothing brand. hickey is regarded as the "renegade child" of the parent company with the same amount of luxury and craftsmanship with an edge. They target a younger--affluent, edgier audience with they're signature embroidery of the infamous pot-leaf.

Inside is very open, enabling you to work your way around the wardrobe racks, containing anything from a suit to casual cargo pants, to the low-set table covered with silk knit ties, sweaters, and accessories.

suits, $1095 range...

96 Grand Street in Soho NYC

Shop www.hickeystyle.com

My next target: F.S.C Freeman's Sporting Club. Not only is this a great shop, but, I really love their story--basically, a group of rugged guys that engage in outdoor games, that happened to live in the city launched a clothing line...it just happened to be made to measure suits. Anything that I write will not due them justice. One more detail, the shop includes a traditional barbershop! Get fitted and a close shave with hot towel--brilliant!

Dashing 3 piece--hand tailored, Bk NY

Shave $40, Haircut $40, Combo $70. They offer antiquities such as grooming products and brushes by Pearson Mason.

8 Rivington l between The Bowery and Chrystie St.

F.S.C. is availible online exclusively through Refinery29shops.com

http://www.freemanssportingclub.com/

Rugby, The ivy league look at a reasonable price point. This store screams "heritage," as do the rest of the lifestyle brands of Ralph Lauren. I may not be in the right demographic for this store--in particular, when it comes to the actual rugby wear. I can certainly appreciate the modern twist on the classical iconic boarding school look. In this store you find timeless classics such as embroidered repp ties, chinos, varsity sweaters, and even formal pieces like slippers and bow ties, only the embroidery is a skull with cross bones. Simply put, it's a fun store with its classic athletic equipment decor, and if you need assistance achieving the look just look to one of the brand reps--head to toe Rugby staged just right!

If you're towards the latter of this demographic--you can buy your first suit here and not break the bank. They also have great accessories...

Tie bar $35

Tie with skull and bones, $68

While I visited I saw this in the store and really liked this wool toggle coat. Priced at $395, you can dress it up a bit with some chinos or down with some denim. Great outerwear.

99 University Place, New York

Shop http://www.rugby.com

Muffler--or Kuffiyah

Wed, 17 Sep 2008 22:16:28 GMT

Not talking about that carbon monoxide emitting pipe on the back of your car. I'm referring to a specific way to wear a specific scarf. The desert scarf. Traditionally, the desert scarf is indigenous to the men of middle eastern arabic countries, but somehow after all that mess with the "anit-war" scarf from Urban Outfitters, it has triumphantly returned to the modern world of fashion, only not as obvious. In Spring 07, UO launched the "anti war" scarf, which was actually its best seller--the only downer was that it was quickly associated with the word Kuffiyah (there are many variations of spelling) and murderous Palestinian Jihad terrorists. Let's not forget that clothes derived from a necessity and are functional. Originally, farmers used this particular scarf to protect themselves from the elements--the sunlight, heat, and sandstorms! Somehow this is always forgotten and the negative connotations shine through. This was highly misconstrued, and as result the scarf was taken of the market...maybe some were wearing it for political purposes, but for the most part, it was an adornment for cool-hip kids across America idolizing fashion designers and celebrities. It's light in material so it breathes in warm weather, making it great for layering, and it's inherently street! The scarf itself is a perfectly squared pattern scarf (normally, black and white, or red and green...etc) and in order to create the "muffler," you just simply fold at the edges--making it into a triangle and then placing the triangle on your chest, you then either tie or cross the ends to the front. At this point you have two options. 1. you can show the ends next to the triangle or 2. you can hide the ends under the triangle. it's all really about perspective...and preference!

This is the controversial scarf...this is not a perfect muffler. And it doesn't have to be...

Kuffiyah Muffler...You can see how it was the best seller. Unfortunately, you cannot purchase this from UO. This is just a display so that you can formulate your own opinion--terrorist symbolism or cool scarf?

Fortunately, you can purchase a variation of the scarf with the same shape that lends itself to the "muffler." It's only $18!

Here is a clip that illustrates how to achieve the look. He also shows you how to do all kinds of "cool" wraps. P.s. this is the actual Kuffiyah...

UO also has some colorful ones not related to any causes--wether known or unknown...

Shop at UO, $20

"Something in the way"

Wed, 10 Sep 2008 02:49:20 GMT

"Something in the way..." that flannel and, or plaid make you feel. And look! Definitely not like you hit your fashion "plateau." A similar, yet different take on that Seattle, Coffee/Tea, Grunge--Nirvanna loving, not caring about your appearance attitude has resurrected in style. This Fall season you'll see an abundance of this . The only difference is...it fits appropriately. Designers have dug deep into the archives of mid-nineteenth century hunting sportswear and successfully translated it into a modern point of view. While rugged enough for the woods, I suggest wearing it to your favorite night club or bar. Although I warn you...if donning one of these correctly--you may quickly become the game.

Be prepared to Mosh with your lovable suitors...

sleeves can be rolled up for a more casual look...

Here is a classic that has been updated. $85 Polo by Ralph Lauren. (If you're on the slender or slim side, always shop "custom-slim fit" for this brand) If you're a "muscular" or "portly" try the classic fit--then have your tailor take it in, if need be.

[File deleted by user]

If you reside in or near New York City, do not over look Seize sur Vingt (literally translates to 16/20) A French score of about a B+, but they really deserve an A+. This brand is a bit more exclusive with a higher price point. $190 range. This model is slim fit, mother of pearl buttons, and made in Italy.

[File deleted by user]

Shop online at http://www.16sur20.com/mensmain.html or visit

Also for a more affordable ($39.50), but still refined selection shop at Gap. Chief designer Patrick Robinson knows what he's doing...

http://www.gap.com

Idea of how they should fit...

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 17:16:13 GMT

This photo did not upload before. Also, to view a larger version of the image, select the image.

Inseam is 34' you can also cuff once if too long, or just take them to your tailor and have them hemmed--be sure to "finish" them.

Dark Denim

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 17:04:17 GMT

Yesterday, I commented on how great and versatile dark denim is. You can find them in several cuts, and variation of the dye's richness.

Take a peek at my personal pair...and also, if you really want to break the $150 range...take a look at http://www.apc.fr/

an idea of how they should fit...

Can be worn with sneakers or dress shoes

A.P.C.

Shop at http://www.apc.fr/