43 serving and ex Metropolitan Police Officers and friends departed from Bushey Police club at 7am on the Morning of Thursday 22 October 2015.

Our destination Arras in Northern France, the town at the epicentre of Great War Activity 1914-18. After a successful crossing of the channel with no hold-ups, our first destination was the tragic, French memorial of the Notre Dame de Lorette and the new 2014 International memorial. The weather was beautiful (Through our tour) and the views magnificent. From there we went to the beautiful British Cemetery of Cabaret Rouge and then onto the German cemetery with it’s 48,000 graves at Neuville St Vaast on our way into Arras. Everyone agreed that the Cabaret Rouge British Cemetery was by far, the most beautiful and evocative. Lovingly tendered and kept perfect, by the skilled gardeners of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. Our Hotel was the friendly Moderne with ample space for large groups, warm rooms and a well stocked bar. The evening at Arras passed with some frivolity and laughter following dinner at the Passe-Temps Bar – within easy crawling distance from our hotel.

Friday 23 October was spent on the 1915 Battlefield of Loos exactly 100 years after that tragic action during which the British Army lost 59,000 men – many of whom were ‘Kitchener’ volunteers. An investigation by renowned Detective, Professor John Grieve CBE QPM was held at the graveside of 18 year old John Kipling as to whether it could be ‘Him or not.’ A memorable day which included the coach being taken to the top of the famous double crassier at Loos from which there were spectacular views.

Saturday 24th October saw the Hampstead Pals travelling to Ypres and a visit to Ploegstreet Wood and the legendary site of the Christmas 1914 truce and to the delight of the many football fans among us, a visit to the new Footballers memorial at Prowse Point which was met with some mirth and mixed feelings. Lunch was at De Dreve café at Polygon Wood and then on to Hooge Crater cemetery which lies on the Menin Road and an excellent ‘Rugby Footballers’ presenation by John and Jan Buoy. An afternoon was spent in exploring the bars and shops of Ypres, dinner at Den Anker before the 8pm Ceremony at the Menin Gate Memorial to the Missing at which our British Legion standard bearer Howard French represented the Hampstead Pals and wreaths were laid during the ceremony by John and Jan Buoy and Jean Latham in memory of grandfathers who were lost during the Great War. A rather noisy journey back to Arras followed with night caps in the Hotel bar.

Sunday 25 October was our ‘big’ day on this tour with the 600 year anniversary of the Battle of Agincourt. The day was led by our historian Professor, John Grieve CBE and we arrived at the little village of Agincourt in brilliant sunshine. Not a cloud in the sky as we donned English flags as cloaks (apart from one grumpy Scot who wore the St Andrew’s cross) and advance into the village behind our mad accordion player, Ian Woledge, much to the delight and applause of the French locals. About 1000 people turned up for the event, mainly French and we were surprised that the French had not made any catering arrangements in the form of a beer tent or hog roast. A fortune was simply waiting to be made. But then again they lost. The speeches were far too long and the French VIP’s dressed in their Sunday best, went on and on. Professor Anne Curry apologised profusely to the French for King Harry’s pure aggression shown towards them (she was booed – much mirth) A more politically correct speech was never heard before. Shakespeare was lambasted and left us thinking that we had actually lost the battle of Agincourt. Nevertheless a brilliant day which will stay in the memory for ever!

Monday 26 October – we went home..

“Just a line to thank you all for yet again another super trip, it was really great . I know that I sometimes drop off to sleep on the coach but I must have “nodded” off at Agincourt because I missed the demonstration of white flag waving by the French army! A great time, and thank you all for your contributions and company. I look forward to the next trip.”
Major John Hickie MBE

A photo record of the tour with photography by Marilyn Taylor can be found at Taylor Made Imagery.

A Brief resume;

This was our 63^rd visit since we first started our travels in 1978 and the theme this Centenary year was “ Commonwealth Rugby Internationals who had died for King and Country”  (there were an astonishing 128 of them!) What followed was a delightful 6 days in France, where we stayed at the family-run Moderne Hotel in the lovely town of Arras, Northern France.

SUNDAY Fifty persons set off from the Metropolitan Police Club, Bushey on a sunny Sunday morning, the 24 May 2015 and we had an excellent mix of 18 – ex Police officers, some with wives, some without, 10 ex HM services Veterans and an assortment of interesting people, 2 nurses (services needed!) 1 midwife (services not needed!) musicians, engineers, schoolteachers, solicitors and more.  Judging by the colourful selection of Rugger shirts worn, everyone must have played the great game of Rugby Football..

We crossed a very calm English channel via P& O Ferry and duly arrived at Calais early afternoon where we made a diversion at the little village of Agincourt of 1415 fame. Not our usual ‘Great War’ theme but in keeping with the fact that it was the 600 anniversary of the battle this year.  The weather was glorious and the village was milling with mad folk in the throes of an archery contest, France V England. The locals were friendly and there were dozens of authentically dressed, English Archers ( genuine English bowmen who had arrived on huge motorbikes – like the procession from Mad Max)  wearing the leathers and buckles of a lost medieval era.. The French meanwhile, in their gaily coloured, dandy outfits reminded one more of the film, ‘ Robin Hood – Men in tights.’ The museum was open too, and many of the Pals made a visit, some chose to remain in the sunshine and inspect the country fare stalls, which were selling local produce, cheese, honey and excellent beer..

Suitably refreshed, we took up our positions on the final line of Henry’s Archers on the ancient battlefield and Professor John Grieve, dressed as a professor, gave us an excellent run down of the actual battle, with repro medieval weapons produced, for a ‘hands on’ experience and a talk by Ann Harvey on the English long bow and how we could not pull it.  John Grieve however being the top detective, insisted on launching an investigation into Henry V’s extreme decision of ordering the execution of hundreds of French prisoners on the battlefield. Was he guilty of a war crime? The matter was not allowed to rest and it culminated in a criminal trial in the courtroom of the Moderne hotel at 10pm that night. Over-acting by certain witnesses led to an overwhelming,  ‘Not Guilty’ verdict of a totally sober, English Jury, much to the bemusement of the French Staff.  Before we left Agincourt for Arras later that afternoon, it would be appropriate to mention that we were soon in our ‘Great War’ mode and we made an interesting stop at the beautiful and rarely visited British Cemetery at St Hilaire, Frevent where Helen Learney movingly, introduced us to ‘Caroles Great Uncle Reggie Barrel.’  We finally got to our hotel at 6.30pm. It had been a long day and we were soon checked in and ready for dinner. Everyone was in bed by 10pm.

MONDAY We left the Hotel, (as at every morning) at 9am and visited the beautiful Arras Memorial to the Missing where we listened to the origins of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission and were given a guided tour of the Arras Memorial, RFC Memorial and cemetery by JN. Many interesting graves and names were pointed out including the grave of the Scottish Rugby International, Tommy Nelson, a close friend of the writer, John Buchan, killed in action on the first day of the Battle of Arras 9 April, 1917. At the RAF/RFC Memorial which stands in the precincts of the cemetery, the name of  the top British air ace, Mick Mannock VC, was pointed out and John Grieve recited from memory, ‘An Irish Airman foresees his death’

Our next stop was at the Arras Road Cemetery, where retired schoolteacher, Saracen’s  and Harrow Rugby Player John Buoy, gave us an excellent presentation at the grave of English Rugby International, Harry Alexander, 1^st Grenadier Guards, Killed in action October 1915. Wearing an England shirt, as did many Pals, John illustrated his talk with photographs and ‘Rugby Poetry’ of the day. We left a miniature rugby ball on the grave and toasted the lads with chilled champagne before we left. ‘Well done boys!’ From there we went to the inspiring, Canadian Memorial at Vimy Ridge, designed by Walter Allward. From the dazzling white steps of the memorial which contains the names of 11,000 missing Canadians in France,  we looked over the plains of Douai and the Battlefield of Loos. From there we visited the preserved trenches and mine craters of the ridge.  This area is fascinating and there is much to see however, we had to move on and after a quick look at the large French Cemetery at la Targette we visited the huge German Cemetery at Neuville St Vaast. The biggest German cemetery in France with 48000 graves. A reminder that those young men also ‘did their duty’ – and believed in the same God as our boys.  After cramming all that into our first morning on the battlefields, we stopped at Zivy Crater  where we enjoyed an excellent picnic lunch and lashings of red wine in beautiful surroundings. The afternoon was spent in a circular tour of the northern Arras battlefield before arriving back in Arras at 3.30pm for a requested, ‘walkabout’ around the town, whereby we visited the place where Joan of  Arc was detained in 1432,  The Grand Place, Barbed-wire Square, the birthplace of Robespierre and the place where the guillotine stood in the Place du Theatre. All this walking led to 40 breathless Pals working up a thirst so we were suitably watered with ice cold Ch’ti beer sitting out in the sunshine at the tables of the appropriately named ‘Bailey’ Bar.  (The owner thought Christmas had come early) A pleasant evening at Dinner whereby we were joined by Nigel & Sarah Stevens of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. The band struck up rather out of tune, due to extreme fatigue.

TUESDAY. We departed the hotel at 9am for the Ypres Salient, where there is so much to see – but so little time  to see it in one day. On the coach to Ypres, JN outlined the story of the Ypres salient and what a ‘Salient’ means.. the most dangerous place to be.  Surrounded on three sides. In the words of one old soldier, “A place where you can get shot up the arse.” We also spoke about the Menin Gate and it being ‘the most sacred place of the British race.’

Our first salient stop was Railway Dugouts Burial Ground (Transport Farm) a most beautiful place with many graves. Here we visited the grave of a tough Leicester Tiger and England International, Frank Tarr, whose name is still revered at Leicester RFC. Once again, a fine presentation by John Buoy. We toasted the lads with champagne and moved onto Sanctuary Wood Cemetery, where we had a special commemoration for Bill Hay, an old soldier who had served with the 9^th Battalion Royal Scots during the Great War. At his request, the Hampstead Pals brought his ashes back to the graves of his ‘Youthful Chums’ in 1985. So here – 30 years on this year – we placed a specially made memorial stone made from Scottish granite on the grave of his best friend ‘Jocky’ Jack. Where he now sleeps.

Bill Hay at Vimy

Bill was toasted with ‘Rusty Nails’ his favourite drink. Just three graves along from Bill Hay, in the same row, lies Jimmy Pearson the Scottish International Rugby Centre three quarter who also served in Bill’s Company of the 9^th Royal Scots.  A fine presentation, was made here by Scot, Bill Gemmell, wearing a Scottish rugby shirt and we left a Scottish mini-match ball on the grave. We then moved to the rear area and the old British Army recreational town of Poperinge and to a lovely cemetery on the outskirts of the town, Nine Elms where John Buoy (wearing an All-Black Shirt) told us the amazing story of the New Zealand All-Black and Captain, Sergeant Dave Gallaher of the Auckland Regiment Killed on 4 October 1917 at the Passchendaele offensive. What a man! what a player! We enjoyed a superb lunch here too.

While we were in the Poperinge area we took the opportunity to visit another of the 27 England Internationals to die, this time Alexander Findlater Todd of the Blackheath Rugby Club and who was killed at Hill 60 in 1915 and now reposes at Poperinge Old Military Cemetery. It was a gorgeous afternoon and the cemetery was a picture of colour, the flowerbeds at their best in the spring sunshine. We made our way into Ypres and gave everyone the opportunity to do a little shopping or beer tasting, but not before JN had led a pleasant stroll from the Lille Gate around the picturesque ramparts to the Menin Gate, pausing only to see where the ‘Wipers Times’ was printed. Dinner was booked in the ‘Den Anker’ Café and the majority of the Pals met there for a very pleasant dinner and Belgian Beer sampling, before making our way up to Sir Reginald Blomfield’s impressive,  Menin Gate Memorial in good time at 7pm, to get a place for the 8pm ceremony of remembrance. The Memorial ceremony was as usual, packed with (mainly) schoolchildren, probably 800 people present. Nevertheless it was as moving as ever and is a daily reminder to, ‘The Armies of the British Empire who stood here 1914-18 and to those of their dead who have no known grave’ (A staggering 55000 on this memorial alone) What is different to the ceremony from when the Pals first came here in 1978 with Bill Hay, when 20 people (including 15 of us) turned up and one bugler on his bike and now, when 1000 people per night is not uncommon, the wreath laying, the commemorations, the speeches, the bands. Also the phenomenon of a forest of ipads, tablets and cameras held high when the buglers start the Last Post.  In spite of this commercial twist, the Menin Gate remains sacred to us. Ypres is a lovely place. It has become rich through British money and British blood.  Poor bar owners, café proprietors, tobacconists or chocolate sellers are unknown. We arrived back in Arras at 10pm following a 60’s music quiz on the coach, won by Dick West.  The First XV then crossed the road to the welcoming, Passe Temps bar. It was a beautiful warm evening and yards of ale were swallowed and bawdy Rugby songs sung until the early hours.

WEDNESDAY Straight to Moeuvres Communal Cemetery Extension, which lies on the 1917 Cambrai battlefield, where we met Commonwealth War Grave Commission top man, Nigel Stevens. There we held a short ceremony in memory of ‘our’ Metroplitan Police VC winner Charles Pope who served at Chelsea Division before emigrating to Australia in 1912 and returning to France with the AIF in 1915. Serving in the 11^th Battalion AIF, he was killed ‘facing fearful odds’ nr Lagnicourt on 15 April 1917. His Police background and service, was related by John Grieve, who then laid a wreath on behalf of the Metropolitan Police.  During this time at 11am we were in communal thoughts with his descendants, in particular his grand daughter Mary in South Africa, who attended the ceremony with her family last year. We then opened the champagne and toasted Charles Pope VC, his family and all Police officers who gave their lives in the Great War. Nigel Stevens then gave us an interesting talk on the work of the CWGC. From here we journeyed along the Cambrai- Bapaume highway, stopping just before Bapaume at Red Cross Corner Cemetery. This tiny cemetery just off the main road, contains 219 graves and one especially we were interested in, that of Phil Waller the Welsh Rugby International who served with the South African Artillery and was killed in December 1917.  John Buoy once again told us his story but was unable to find a Welsh Rugby shirt to wear, for some strange reason. Of all the stories, Waller is probably the most interesting as he was born in England to Scottish parents but played his Rugby for Newport in South Wales and wanted to play for Wales! He was capped six times for Wales before touring with the British Lions to South Africa where he decided he liked the country, the Rugby and the beer so much he decided to settle. When war broke out he volunteered and came to France with the SA Heavy Artillery. The same shell that killed him,  also killed his Commanding officer and friend, the Rugby-Playing Major P. Fitzpatrick who is buried next to him. The result of which, was told to us by Ray Almond and is (briefly) as follows..  Sir Percy Fitzpatrick’s (Father) wrote to Lord Milner and suggested that there should be a two minute silence on Armistice day as was held in Cape Town in 1918. This was immediately approved by the King. It remains in place to this day. A Welsh Rugby Football was placed here. From there, we went across the 1916 Battlefield and along the Albert-Bapaume road to Delville Wood to view the South African National Memorial but also a useful comfort stop. We then made our way to the large, Dernancourt Military Cemetery (Extension) just to the rear of the 1916 Somme battlefield, with over 2000 Commonwealth burials. Here, we decided to have a picnic lunch as there is a low wall at the edge of the car park ideal for plate juggling. Janice Buoy, herself a retired school teacher, then told us about Sapper Alfred Harris (John’s Grandfather) of the 1^st Field Company Royal Engineers who was killed during the very last days of the Battle of the Somme on 14 November 1916. He was from Bristol. However her talk was interrupted by the take off of the giant ‘Guppy’ from nearby Meaulte Aerodrome!  A flypast especially arranged by Peter Crew. It was here we met Darren, an Australian visitor and Paul Hogan lookalike, who just happened to be in the cemetery and he joined us for a gorgeous picnic lunch. We noticed he was covered in tattoos, all connected with his grandfather who had served with the 14^th Battalion AIF. ‘Jacka’s Mob.’ The largest on his thigh, being ‘Albert Jacka VC 14^th AIF’  He was visiting all the known graves of 14^th AIF members. Well, we did our bit for Aussie-Pom relations in spite of the looming ashes series. I think he enjoyed himself as he settled down for a nap as we left. We then made our way to Trones Wood as a special visit for Judith Rushby.  (her grandfather was killed there) Trones Wood was captured by the renowned 18^th (Eastern) Division on 14 July 1916, during the ‘Battle for the Woods’ on the Somme. The attack was cleverly masterminded by that brilliant soldier Frank Maxwell VC.  The tranquil memorial to the 18^th Division now stands at the edge of the wood ‘The Greatest thing in the world – that ye should love one another as I have loved you.”

THURSDAY To the Somme via Warlencourt Cemetery to Pozieres and the ruins of Pozieres Windmill and the story of the 2^nd Australian Division’s push on the village.  The extraordinary feats of Albert Jacka VC.. the Tank memorial and Cognac and Crème de Menthe.. (No, we did not drink that – they were Tank names) Down to Pozieres Memorial to the Missing of 1918, where Mike Jackson gave an interesting talk on the actions of an officer, Leo Dobbing (Killed 21 March 1918) whose name is on the memorial and who was the guard room officer during the Dublin Easter rising of 1916. From there we went to Ovillers Military cemetery where we laid a wreath in memory of Alf Razzell who had served with the 8^th Battalion Royal Fusiliers and we promised him just before his death in 1996 that we would ‘remember’ the sacrifice of his young comrades made at Ovillers, on 7 July 1916. We have not failed him. Bill Gemmell gave us a moving presentation at the grave of Captain John lauder, son of music hall star, Sir Harry Lauder. ‘Keep right on to the end of the road.’ From there we went up to the  imposing Thiepval Memorial, where we took advantage of the picnic tables, for a delightful lunch prepared by our smashing dinner ladies, Coren Smith, Claire Cutts and Anne Jackson with help from John Amos. (You can always find him in the kitchen at parties) We all walked up to Sir Edwin Lutyen’s  Memorial which contains the names of over 72000 Officers and men of the British Army, missing during the Battle of the Somme and who have no known grave. Among the names is Captain Ned Shephard, The Black Watch who was killed in the Ancre Valley in July 1916 and the Grandad of Jean Latham. Whilst at the memorial, John Buoy pointed out the name of the England Rugby International, Lancelot Slocock 10^th Kings Liverpool Regiment killed in the attack on Guillemont on 9 August 1916. He was one of 57 players from Liverpool RFC to be killed in the Great War. WE then left for Arras stopping first at the huge Serre Road No 2 Cemetery with it’s 7000 graves and where Roger Learney, in the afternoon sunshine,  introduced us to his collection of weapons of the war, including a Mills, Bomb, Webley Pistol and Cavalry sword. From there, we made our way back to Arras, with a last stop at the pretty, Indian and Chinese Cemetery at Ayette Village. Beautifully kept by the CWGC and rarely visited with just 63 graves, we ‘adopted’ a grave each and place a burning joss-stick on each one, as a token of remembrance, thanks and peace. The evening was a grand affair. A noisy dinner. Loud out of tune, music. Travelling Light.. Good wine and wonderful company.

FRIDAY. A sleepy coach home. Eurotunnel. The only way! Arrival back at Bushey, 2.30pm. Thank you Ray!

Just a few of your reflections;

Well, We didn’t think that you could surpass yourself, but you have! We had a fabulous few days with you and the Hampstead Pals. The dynamics between all involved just seemed so right this year. We particularly thank you for facilitating a solution of my request to go to St Hilaire Cemetery on behalf of Carole to visit her great uncle Reggie. I found it a very moving experience and I’m sure that he knew we were all there for him. The Carnot Restaurant have, ‘upped their game’ and the fayre was really of a very high standard it all worked extremely well and you managed to please everybody!  Your forethought, impeccable planning and hard work, along with several other key people, ensured that we had a terrific holiday. Thank you so much.
With Love from
Roger & Helen Learney

Brilliant tour as always, it’s always the highlight of my year. I always think they are perfect and can’t get better and somehow they do. Always fascinating, incredibly interesting and enormous fun! I don’t know what I would do without the Hampstead Pals. Please put me down quickly for the May 2016 trip.
Jean Latham

I would like to once again express my thanks on behalf of myself and Sam, for what was one of the most enjoyable weeks we have had. We can honestly say that we hardly stopped laughing throughout. However, this was interspersed with very poignant and moving moments that demonstrated the sacrifice made in France. Without doubt this atmosphere was due to the hard work and care that you put into the planning of the trip.

As a result of our experience I would like to book four places on the trip next year. As you quite rightly pointed out that everyone in Britain should see what that generation did in order to allow us the life we enjoy.
Kevin Bryan

Just my own word of thanks for last week which was absolutely fabulous. In the Great War and Second World War we were a nation to be proud to belong to. But look at us now. Anyway, thanks again and please put me down for your next year – if there is a place!
Major John Hickie

Jon, what a great week with a great bunch of folks. Thank you. I learnt and saw a lot of stuff, which was new to me. Regards to all the Pals and as a first timer, thanks for making me feel at home.
Pete Butterworth ( Tonto )

Firstly thanks to both of you for a great trip – Jon B for all the Rugby research and Jon N for the wealth of knowledge and fun. Put me down for the next trip as I am definitely coming!
Mary Flowerdew

A big thank you for another great trip. Thought the evening meals were a lot better this time. Picnics have always been good, as is the company. Great weather too. We were so lucky.
Gilly Shorter

I have had a really good night’s sleep and the washing machine is working overtime and I now have time to reflect on the trip.  Both Trevor and I had a great time with a great bunch of people and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. As always the knowledge of the Great War that you impart to us all is fascinating and John’s stories of the rugby players were an added bonus. Having jumped on the scales this morning I find that I managed to put on nearly half a stone which is a tribute to the catering on the trip. Thank you for another excellent trip. We both want to come again next year if you will have us.
John Amos

That was a fabulous tour – copious thanks to Jon, The Dinner Ladies, all other speakers, helpers, and organisers, Ray the world’s best coach driver, the band, and all of you for your company and friendship – we will do it again before too long. Whilst on that note, Jon, please put our names on the list for the May 2016 tour.
Roger & Celia Smith

A fabulous trip indeed.  My thanks too, to all of those who worked so hard to make it such an enjoyable trip. I just wanted to say a huge thank you to yourself, Jon for an tremendous, fun and educational tour and to all of the great people that I had the privilege of spending the week with. The food and banter were absolutely top drawer and I look forward to more of the same next May… Bring it on!!
Sam Dunkeley

Thanks for another great Pals trip, memorable WW1 characters & Azincourt. The Rugby theme with Janice & John was masterly. Thanks for all you do for us.

John & Gilly Grieve

I would just like to say again that I had a grand time and life in the office seems terribly dull and really quite sober.
Judith Rushby

What happened?
Lee Reboul

Assistant Commissioner Cressida Dick QPM laid a wreath on behalf of the Metropolitan Police, in which Charles Pope served at Chelsea Division, before the Great War. Also in attendance was the Australian Defence Attache, Lt Colonel Scott Clingan who laid a wreath on behalf of the people of Australia and recited the citation of the VC award. Professor John Grieve CBE (Ex DAC Metropolitan Police) spoke about Charles Pope’s service in the Metropolitan Police and the Mayor of Moeuvres, Ms.Setan welcomed us to the village. Mr Nigel Stevens, represented the Commonwealth War Graves Commission and Mr Mike Jackson the London Branch of the Western Front Association.

The Hampstead Pals have been laying wreaths every year at Charles’ grave since 1992 and in 2002 Lord Stevens (Then the Commissioner) attended the ceremony. A marvellous ‘London’ lunch had been prepared in the Moeuvres, ‘Salle des Fetes’ complete with ‘Chelsea’ Roast Beef, ‘Arsenal’ Ham, Potted Cockles, Pork Pies, Apple pies and cakes with gallons of Fullers London Pride Ale to wash it down. It was a lively but proud bunch of Hampstead Pals that arrived back at the Moderne Hotel in Arras at 5pm…

The Hampstead Pals 61st Tour of the old action spots of 1914-18 continued next day with a visit to Ypres Salient and on Wednesday the Battlefields of the Somme.

The Pilgrimage is best summed up by David and Sally Fisher who travelled from Stamford, Lincs,with the Hampstead Pals for the first time..

‘Sally and myself wanted to thank you personally for such a wonderful trip last week with the Hampstead Pals. It was so informative, very poignant and yet such a lot of fun, that we agreed it was the best tour we’ve ever been on. It’s often a bit daunting to join a group, most of whom have known one another over a number of years, but, at no time did we feel “outsiders”, everyone was so friendly that we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. A lot of that was down to you, Jon, with your vast knowledge of the subject, amusing anecdotes and digressions and belly-laugh jokes….(ping, ping….!!!) Not forgetting, of course, the bass-playing and the great sounds on an evening, just the right accompaniment to shed-loads of alcohol……!!!

So many, many thanks and, hopefully, we can join you in October and for many a year to come.

Sunday 19^th May

Up at the crack of dawn, luckily loads of alarm clocks had been set – after all it was the morning after the night before “ Eurovision Song Contest ” and “ Rock the Moor.” Taxi arrived way too early, to catch some ‘Z’ds” before we left, his normal shift started at 3am but last night he started at 1am – I keep him talking all the way to the meeting point to ensure he stays awake. Got to Bushey – drove up and down the road several times until I finally convinced the driver to ignore the sat nav and go to where the parked coach was (clue!).  Poor old Clive was on the floor fixing a puncture, not great at that hour of the day, the only consolation was that they had made it to Bushey Police Club!

The chaps on the coach are very friendly, love the topic and are very knowledgeable

Breakfast on the ferry. Then onto “Loos“ region and several cemeteries (so many dead, so many never recovered, so many unidentified) – a wreath at one of the chap’s relatives grave at Vieille-Chapelle Cemetery, John Schofield VC – there will be a wreath for Gordon too. (My Great Uncle Gordon Flowerdew VC)  – a picnic lunch at Quarry cemetery (need to be quick!) and the bar on the coach! (private hours!) Walked the ploughed fields, found ordnance, clay pipes and perfume bottle lids – unexploded bombs and shells at field edge. Finally into Arras – hotel is clean and friendly, town is historic (and damaged by warfare) – much Art Deco because of the rebuild in the 1920s.

 Monday 20^th May

Drizzly weather.

Good old traditional French breakfast, good bread, good coffee.

Onto Arras Memorial  – 35,952 commemorated who were lost, never found. All denominations, Christians, Jews, Sikhs. The most touching parts are the personnel messages, inscribed at the base of the headstones, which would have cost families dear at the time – “He was a good son,” “From the wifie” – just heartbreaking.

Jon talked about “ Alf Razzell” of the Royal Fusiliers and his lifelong concern about his pal “Bill Hubbard” who was mortally wounded and Alf tried to carry him out of no-mans land, but the pain was too great for Bill and Alf had to leave him in a shell hole. Alf then handed his silver ring to a German stretcher bearer in the hope that he would rescue Bill.

Jon was presented with an engraved plaque commemorating the 60^th trip of the Met Police, ‘Hampstead Pals’ and a certificate of honour from the Royal Fusiliers who he has supported and been an advocate of, because of his friendship with Alf. A generous donation was also made to the Royal Fusiliers museum by the Hampstead Pals.

Whilst stomping around the cemetery, putting stones on Jewish graves , I noticed some lads from the East Yorkshire Regiment, (my grandfathers regiment) then a whole wall of names on the monument. So Grandad was here! How spooky to realise and how lucky I was to have him. Buried here is also Tommy Nelson, Scottish Rugby International and pal of John Buchanan (39 Steps) who he dedicated his book to.

Behind the British cemetery memorial, a short walk brings us to “The wall of rifles “ where folks – after terrible interrogation by the Gestapo were shot – the people of Arras rarely go there, because of bitter memories of collaboration .

John Grieve, detective par excellence, who conducted and presented the evidence into the facts surrounding the disappearance & death of Rudyard Kipling’s son Jack, is keeping a wonderful notebook with hand drawn and painted sketches – what a treasure for future generations. Doing “Poets on the Western Front” and their graves.

“Four Years on the Western Front” by a Rifleman – Aubrey Smith took us to Agny Military Cemetery and the grave of his best friend, Claude Vallentine Warne age 27 of the Rifle Brigade and blown up on the road with his horses (Gog and Magog) nearby and also the Poet, Edward Thomas Royal Garrison Artillery, killed in action on the first day of the Battle of Arras 9^th April 1917.

Pulled into a lay by and there was a huge crucifixion scene in the trees – in memory of Harry Isaacs of the Suffolk regiment who died aged 19 on the first day at Arras and buried at the side of the road. His parents bought the land and put up the memorial (the family were Jewish and converted to Catholicism) The parents couldn’t get there until 1919, by which time the grave was destroyed but they got the monuments from Lourdes to put where the grave had been. The family moved to Arras to be near their son and every day would cycle from Arras with flowers. They had passed over by the end of WWII – and had no descendants, so it is unclear who owns the land. The memorial is now maintained by the ‘Souvenir Francais’ of Arras.

Up to Monchy le Preux, where General Jack Seeley’s (Galloper Jack) son was killed, Jack galloped overnight on ‘Warrior’ to get there when he learnt he had been killed , only to arrive just after the burial. The town was adopted by the Isle of Wight and they have strong affiliations. Jack Seeley was Lord Lieutenant of the Isle of Wight.

Also a Caribou Memorial for the Newfoundland Regiment and an Infantry Memorial to the 37^th Division designed by the sister of the commanding officer.

The battle of “Monchy le Preux” was very important in the battles of Arras, the Germans wanted to hold it and we gained it on the 11^th April 1917 (great loss of life, 1400 horses killed)  Germans took it back in April 1918 and then it was regained by Canadian Mounted Rifles in August 1918. A Canadian Officer, Charles Rutherford raised a white flag and went to the German blockhouse and told them “You are surrounded by Canadian troops who do not take prisoners – if you surrender you will be treated honourably” so they did all 40 of them, only to find there were only 3 Canadian soldiers! The officer got the VC.

In 1998 they found 27 infantrymen buried in a number of shell holes and they were reburied in the little Monchy cemetery designed by Sir Edward Lutyens (as a Roman Villa , because there were lots of Roman remains around). 1000 French people came to the ceremony but didn’t enter the cemetery out of respect for British property given by the French in perpetuity. Two guys were identified, one was 6’ 7” and therefore identifiable, both Royal Fusiliers and the Duke of Kent (turned up late) was present.

Pissing with drizzle – so an indoor picnic back at the hotel – for which I sliced mountains of cheese – wine at lunchtime so French, so not everyday! We had champers & strawberries at the Arras Memorial that morning.

Guemappe Cemetery. Predominantly Scottish. (Seaforth Highlanders) 10 officers & 54 men in a mass grave killed in attack on village on 23^rd April. Seldom visited.  Then to ‘Tank Cemetery’ a trench grave for Cameron Scots – headstones close together because it is a mass grave, buried in their kilts with their arms around one another.

Found shrapnel shells and shrapnel balls (like nail bombs) After the war the shrapnel balls were collected and melted down for church roofs, as they are made of lead.

Over one hundred British Cemeteries in a 17 mile radius! Germans only have one major graveyard on Arras  battlefields at Maison Blanche because they lost the war. A mass burial of 44,000 souls. After lunch we went to Moeuvres Communal Cemetery for Charles Pope V.C of Met Police Chelsea Division to lay a wreath. Tony Blair and Gordon Brown tried to reduce the spending on the War Graves Commission by 80% in 2002 and reduce gardeners and change “ in perpetuity“ to 99 years – no way Jose! – the dead are watching you! If a headstone has no cross or Star of David or religious symbol, I think it belongs to an atheist.

To Gavrelle, where the church holds a massive oak cross commissioned by Prime Minister Asquith’s son, Arthur of Hood battalion who was so appalled by the loss of life of his battalion during the battle for the village on 23^rd April, that he bought the cross and had it engraved with the names of the known killed on that day.

The church is full of saintly statues – it always makes me smile – France! such a saintly, socialist country. The village has been adopted by “Westminster” (through the association of the Queens Westminster Rifles that fought there)

The village of Gavrelle was subject to a round-up of resistance fighters betrayed by a British deserter during the second world war. French resistance women who collaborated with the British were on Hitler’s orders, beheaded by the Germans, face upwards so they could see the axe man and the axe. After the war, women who collaborated with the Germans were publically shaved, tarred and  feathered by the French.

Back at the Hotel. In the evening the band played until the early hours (they are very good) with some wonderful ‘intercourse music’ (between courses of food!). Bruce and Paul shimmying to the Mavericks, ‘Dance the Night Away’

Tuesday 21^st May

Up early with the intention of going to the ‘supermarche,’ somehow despite getting down to breakfast early we missed the 8.15am coach – too much gassing , I guess.

On the coach, today is Clive Harris from ‘Battle Honours’ to assist Jon and the Chief of Police from Lorraine, Paul Nicolas. He brought a vintage bottle of Mirabelle 1973 (Plum Brandy) – so at 0925hrs we all had some, yikes!

Ypres today. Originally there were three gates at Ypres – The Menin Gate was destroyed except for two lions, which were stolen by Australians. The Menin Gate British memorial to the Missing was designed by Sir Reginald Blomfield with 54,000 “lost” men on the gate (never found) – 86,000 men in total never found on Ypres salient. The ‘Last Post’ at 8pm has been played since 1927, by the Ypres Fire brigade using silver bugles from the British Legion – it only stopped in 1940 when the Germans occupied Ypres – the night of the day the Germans left in 1944 it restarted.

186 British cemeteries in Ypres Salient, One million British soldiers killed, wounded or missing in the defence of the town. The British had promised to defend Belgian neutrality (Prince Albert was King of the Belgians).

Morning. Ploegsteert Café. We meet Clive Harris of ‘Battle Honours’ here who joins the coach. One of the burial sites near Ploegsteert Wood was in the grounds of the Hennessy “Brandy” family chateau. In 1925 the owner demanded they be removed or he would destroy them. This almost caused a serious diplomatic incident and was raised in parliament and there was even a move by old soldiers to have him assassinated. Eventually the remains were re-interred and the side of the road by the Berks Cemetery Extension Memorial (11,000 names) – it is fronted by two lions , one snarling and the other serenely smiling. It may be that the Hennessy family were put out because the Australian soldiers, when they dug the underground tunnels ended up in the Hennessy wine cellars and drank all of the ”Moet & Chandon”.

Weather even more dire and drizzly, so had picnic lunch in ‘The Brothers in Arms’ Memorial Café at Polygon Wood, Johan opened up just to let us have an “inside” picnic. Very much an Australian battlefield hang out – the Australians took Polygon Wood during the battle of Passchendaele in September 1917.

Onto Sanctuary Wood British Cemetery to honour Bill Hay 9^th Royal Scots, a Scotsman and friend of Hampstead Police who had his ashes strewn around his ‘youthful chums’ in the cemetery – we laid a wreath and then sprinkled the grave with his favourite tipple, Drambuie.

French cemetery – the strategy for the French was to save Europe , so much of a bigger picture than the other allies. The French lost 23,000 men the day before Mons A massive cemetery at Potize. Then.. Tyne Cot British Cemetery – 12,000 men the largest British Cemetery in the world with 60% unknown graves.

Onto Ypres – rebuilt brick by brick, as it was raised to the ground – you wouldn’t know it – to look at it. 8pm and the ‘Last Post Ceremony’ at the Menin Gate – Three buglers, about 8 wreaths laid. I always wanted to be there – I never realised it was actually in the middle of Ypres – on the telly it always seems like a green, grassy area (I now know that is the view from above – canals and grassed area)

Wednesday 22^nd May:

Spent this morning looking at Somme battle details so I could remember Ernest and the East Yorkshire Regiment. I now realise what learning opportunities I missed. (Ernest Harold Leonard) But then Ernest would say that the ‘Bullring’ at Etaples was far worse than any battle. Then that wonderful chap I knew through Paddy who was at Archangel ,Russia. How come I didn’t write it all down?

H.A.C (Honourable Artillery Company) Cemetery. Ecoust St Mein – Sir Edward Lutyens (Romanesque with Gertrude Jeykll gardens with Poplar Trees, low walls – so man is one with the landscape). Ex-soldier architects were instigators of these cemeteries in France and Belgium – one planted English roses so that each soldiers grave would have a shadow of the English rose on them at some point in the day.

France lost more men on the first year of the war than the Brits in the whole war.

Jon says that the Guinness Book of Records states that the Somme was the biggest battle ever and that the bombardment could be heard in England! The Somme – first day 60,000 casualties to the British Army – the German Field Army was also decimated at the battle of the Somme. All the finest NCOs were lost. The Somme has no major towns apart from the little town of Albert. It is like a heath land – the objective of the British was to support the French and drive out the Germans. They were ‘Kitcheners Army’ and I guess that was Ernest as he didn’t join up at the beginning of the war.

Each British Army Division has a ‘flash’ – for the 12^th Division for instance, it was the Ace of Spades, which would be on lapel badges and all property, even the horses which would be branded with the ‘Ace of Spades.’

Ovillers Military Cemetery – The Somme. Laid a wreath to the memory of Alf Razzell & Royal Fusilliers and the fateful attack on the village. Then the tale of Harry Lauder’s son, Captain John Lauder. Jon read out the article written by Sir Harry Lauder about the day he heard the news of his only son’s death – heart breaking and the hopes of a reunion after death. When Sir Harry Lauder came to the cemetery to his son’s grave for the first time, he lay on the grave and thrust his hands into the earth to caress his son. Some say John Lauder was deliberately shot by his own men who didn’t like him – but he was shot from the front, in the stomach, so the stories are tosh. Lauder wrote the famous song ‘Keep right on to the end of the road’ in memory of his son – now sang at Birmingham F.C.

Thiepval British Memorial to 73,000 missing of the Somme. I left a cross for Ernest and his pals East Yorkshire Regiment Panel. High Wood – and almost a whole panel of names, so lucky to have Ernest back. Picnic lunch here. Then, Lochnagar Crater – biggest man made crater. La Boiselle project – opening the tunnels and a visitors centre at the Glory Hole – ongoing. Afternoon. Passed ‘High Wood’ where Ernest fought. The wood still closed off because it is unsafe to enter due to unexploded munitions. Onto the cemetery at Point 110 near Fricourt, where the officer love of Siegfried Sasoon is buried. I hunted the nearby fields and came back with horse harness buckles and shell pieces – 100 years on!

Fricourt and finally, a German Cemetery – iron crosses with four names per cross/grave. Some Jewish headstones (apparently erected more recently – atonement/guilt?) No flowers, poppies or messages  – no present day remembrance.

Back at the Hotel, ‘Quiz night’ first half, ‘Film themes’ – two lead tables with scores of 26/30, a second round on general knowledge and we won! (I knew my random knowledge of Les Paul would come in handy one day) A bottle of fizz as a prize.

 Thursday 23^rd May

Made it to the supermarche! – stopped myself going French  ‘supermarche crazy’ just! Sun out this morning, blue skies – then it hissed down in big lumps and still cold – brrrr ! Going to the Somme again and Dernancourt Military Cemetery – 1,200 graves behind the front line where soldiers were brought to die. Jon read a piece by the son of a war graves gardener who applied for the job in 1953, moving from Cornwall to Dernancourt. We were here to remember Sapper Harris. His grandson Jon Buoy is on board with his wife, Jan. Sapper Harris’ daughter only died in 2012 aged 97, having only encountered her father as a babe in arms. (We saw the photo). Jon (Buoy) read out a letter sent home from Sapper Harris (just before he was fatally wounded) and two about his death.

Lunch at ‘Tommy Restaurant & Museum’ in Pozieres village. Totally rebuilt after the war. British and German trenches in the back garden. The owner Dominic, has dug up stuff, loads of Australian regimental stories and artefacts.

Onto Amiens this afternoon. Whilst at Pozieres, the tale was told of Bert Jacka of the Australian Army and a psycho! A fearless killer. Shot 11 times during the fight for the village, should have been promoted and won another two VC’s but for his poor attitude towards his senior officers. He survived until 1932 before succumbing to his old wounds. He became Mayor of St Kilda in Australia.

Albert – Amiens road (straight) leads to Amiens prison where in WW2 there were 250 French resistance fighters imprisoned, due to be shot on 19^th Feb 1942. In a daring raid, on 18^th February, British Mosquitos flew straight down the road at a height of 10’ to bomb the prison walls (Operation Jericho) and release the prisoners (or kill them if needed) – one of them knew about the D-Day landings and Churchill was concerned that if tortured he may give the game away. Group Captain Percy ‘Pick’ Pickard DFC led the mosquitos in (and was shot down when he circled back to check on everyone getting away) after he crashed and was killed with his navigator, the French locals removed all I.D from the bodies and they were buried in Amiens Cemetery next to the prison, where to this day the French still honour him every 18th February) He had given his wife an Old English Sheepdog ‘Ming’ as a wedding gift which used to watch him fly off and wait, looking skywards until Pick returned and gave 4 sharp whistles to summon the dog. On the day of the raid, the dog howled and came in. His wife and son emigrated to Rhodesia after the war and on 18^th Feb 1952 on the anniversary of his death, his widow distinctly heard four sharp whistles, the dog howled and fell dead. The news made the papers in the UK.

Onto Namps-au-Val cemetery for Gordon Flowerdew VC. Jon brought a poppy wreath and Coral wrote a lovely message from the both of us (his relatives) Jon read excerpts from ‘Galloper Jack’ about Gordon, Jack Seeley and Warrior. Fabulous.

We also put a cross on the grave of a fusilier in memory of the Royal Fusilier who was murdered in London yesterday.

Onto the Canadian Monument at Vimy Ridge, fabulous sculpture, like the Gates of Rohan. Wonderfully conveying the grief of a nation. There was a competition in Canada to design and build the monument and the winner, Walter Allward designed and carved the whole thing himself. It took 10 years and was inaugurated by Edward VIII. The land around the monument has been bought by Canada – so is Canadian soil, the land has not been reworked since the war so is completely potted with shell holes – trees have been planted, which had to be provided by the Germans and had to grow in the toxic soil.

At the hotel that night..

Inspired by Bruce Dobson’s ‘goatie’ beard , Coren used Yves Saint Laurent eyeliner to give all the chaps black eyebrows, goaties, sideburns and moustaches (many varieties  including Handlebar ) it took years off them!

A jolly time had by all.

Great Pals and thank you!

An emotional but enjoyable weekend as the Hampstead Pals took the ashes of our dear Pal, Kevin Cutts home, to the Devonshire Cemetery on the Somme. This was Kev’s favourite place on the Western Front and the sun shone brilliantly for us as his last wish was carried out bravely, by widow Claire, placing his ashes in the grave of an unknown soldier. His Mum & Dad, Ernie & Sue were with us,  together with his daughter Hannah, sister Sharon and brother Martin. Kevin Cutts was a great hearted man and taken before his time. He served in the Metropolitan Police Special Branch on anti-terrorist duties.  He had been coming to the battlefields of the Western Front with the Hampstead Pals since 1987. Fifty of us, including  Jean-Marie & Valerie our French friends from the Moderne Hotel in Arras were present. We sang Jerusalem and said our Lord’s Prayer. The Francis Ledwidge poem, ‘Soliliquoy’ was recited by Professor John Grieve CBE, and the words ‘and now I’m drinking wine in France’ soon became a reality as we left Kevin Cutts to the singing larks, the spring flowers and the trees. The beauty and tranquility of the Devonshire Trench was apparent  to us all and we knew Kev would not be lonely. He was in good company. ‘The Devon’s held this trench. The Devon’s hold it still’ Sleep on Kev.

In the trenches. Berkhamsted Common

Yesterday afternoon, I took advantage of a beautiful Autumn day, to walk from my home in Hemel Hempstead to the little village of Potten End and beyond, to Berkhamsted Common which lies on the edge of the lovely, Ashridge Forest.  I had long heard about the old First World War trenches on Berkhamsted Common which had been dug by young soldiers of the Inns of Courts Officer Training Corps, nicknamed ‘The Devils Own’ which had been stationed in Berkhamsted right through the Great War of 1914-18. On previous visits to the common and golf course, I had failed to find them but yesterday was to prove lucky. The walk to the Common took one and a half hours. The sun was warm and the trees turning a beautiful gold and yellow. In spite of working up a sweat (It is uphill most of the way) I passed two excellent pubs on route..

According to the local Gazette, the Inns of Courts OTC dug 13 linear miles of trenches, mainly as a rehearsal for the forthcoming experience of real trench warfare on the Western Front and partly as fitness training for these young volunteers, some of them barely out of public school. The trenches were also to provide valuable experience in modern trench layouts, based on the real trenches in France and from hard lessons learned there.

The Inns of Court OTC provided basic and officer training at Berkhamsted. The subjects practiced were route marching, map reading, digging trenches, wiring, bombing, musketry, field tactics and strategy which took the form of complete battalion exercises in open warfare. Then there were the usual lectures, which covered a whole range of subjects from leadership, billeting, welfare and trench sanitation.

The Inns of Court OTC was originally part of the London Territorial Force and consisted mainly of men connected with the Law courts in the City of London and The Strand. The Corps came to Berkhamsted on 28^th September 1914 and did not leave until June 1919. Around 14,000 men passed through the Corps with over 11,000 gaining commissions.  Three Victoria Crosses were awarded, besides numerous other decorations. A total of 2,147 men lost their lives and are commemorated by the lonely OTC Memorial, which stands on the Golf Course at the road junction from Frithsden Road into Berkhamsted. The memorial is still in solid condition but weather erosion has rendered it difficult to read and it could do with steam cleaning. The memorial also records that Colonel E.R.L Errington’s ashes were placed nearby. His official history of the Corps, written in the 1920’s gives interesting details:

“The situation of our camp at Berkhamsted was ideal, pitched in the field on the north side of the station and sloping gently up to Berkhamsted Place. The Squadron, both men and horses, were in the Brewery. Lord Brownlow placed at our disposal his private waiting-room at the station and also a covered-in shelter, both of which were used for Quartermaster’s office and stores. The proximity of the station did away with all transport difficulties. On the west side, we had ample room for expansion, and on the east side another large field, subsequently given the name of “Kitchener’s Field”, made an admirable drill ground.  The surrounding country was the best imaginable for training, being so varied … To the north lay the big common, later intersected by some 13,000 yards of trenches, then Ashridge Park, undulating and beautifully timbered, placed entirely at our disposal by Lord Brownlow, and so away to the open downland of the Chiltern Hills. To the south, hilly and enclosed land leading to Hawridge and Cholesbury Commons. To the east, farms and enclosures admirably adapted for night operations; and to the west the private grounds of Rossway and Champneys, always open to us; with woods, farms and enclosures to and beyond Tring. We went where we liked, and did what we liked. The big landowner, the small landowner, and the farmer were all equally ready to help. If there was any trouble, Major Mead at once got on his horse, rode over, and smoothed things out.  For the squadron, long treks without touching a road, wide movements, distant reconnaissance; for the infantry, wood fighting, canal crossings, river crossings, big fights on the open commons and downs, local fighting among the enclosures, every form of open training was available. In the neighbouring villages, Nettleden, Little Gaddesden, Aldbury, Ashley Green, Bovingdon, the awakened villager turned to sleep again with greater security when he realised that the outburst of firing, and the swift rush of feet through the village street, betokened nothing more than a night raid of the Devil’s Own… As soon as we moved into billets the Rector, Mr Hart Davies, placed the Court House at our disposal for an Orderly Room …  Through the kindness of Lady Brownlow we were able to begin by using her hospital at Ashridge.”

Lovely stuff..

The network of trenches can be found just a short walk at the rear of the car-park opposite the memorial. I understand that The Chiltern Conservation group is aiming to map out all of the existing trenches and clear some of the scrubland. I noticed that work was already progressing. The trenches that exist and have resisted the erosion of time are quite unique. I guess there are around three hundred yards of fortifications, quite deep in places and they reminded me of the trenches at the Newfoundland Memorial Park on the Somme battlefield. Apparently, many of the old trenches had been filled in by the Golf club in the 70’s. Doubtless to be denied! ‘Kitcheners Field’ once a bustling small town of Nissen huts and tents, is now the sports field of Berkhamsted Public School and it can be seen next to the ancient ruins of Berkhamsted Castle.

Jonathan Nicholls, 14^th November 2012.

Times article ‘Bobbies March to the beat of a different drum’ 3 November 2012

We were very happy to see an excellent article today in The Times all about Hampstead Pals. The full text of the article can be found at Jon’s new website Arras Battlefield Tours.

THE WESTERN FRONT 1914-18

 Arras – Somme – Ypres

A journey back in time with like-minded friends

Hotel Moderne Arras.

Coach picks up Hemel Hempstead (6.30am)  Bushey Police Club (7am) Dartford (7.45am)

Including popular picnic lunches

Double/twin room at £480 per person. Single £580.

Including all meals (except supper Tuesday night in Ypres)

Free Bar on Coach.  Driver – Ray Waters. P&O Ferries.

All wines with dinner & lunch included

Deposits of £30 being taken now. Balance by 15th April 2013

Please make cheques payable to J Nicholls

For more info on both tours contact Jon on 0771 042 0933.  Or 01442 258021

Retired Met Police Officers at the grave of ex Chelsea Police Constable, Charles Pope VC, 21 May 2012

On Monday we embarked on a tour of the 1917 Arras battlefields, this year being the 95th Anniversary of the battle. The ‘Cheerful Sacrifice’ tour commenced at the Arras memorial to the Missing. We also made our annual visit to Moevres Communal Cemetery where John Grieve CBE laid a wreath on behalf of the Metropolitan Police at the grave of Charles Pope VC, ex Chelsea Police Constable who gallantly died, ‘facing fearful odds’ on 15 April 1917.

Tuesday was a wonderful day on the Ypres Salient and included a visit to Dozinghem Cemetery and the story of Revere Ostler, the great grandson of Paul Revere. Among our regular stops was Tyne Cot Cemetery and Sanctuary Wood where we laid a wreath in memory of Bill Hay, a veteran soldier of the 9th Royal Scots ‘adopted’ by Hampstead Police in 1980 and his ashes scattered on the graves of his ‘youthful chums’ at his request following his passing in 1985. A lovely picnic lunch with smoked salmon & champagne in the sunshine at Hill 62 simply made the day. Together with a good dinner in Ypres, prior to the Menin Gate ceremony of remembrance at 8pm.

Our delightful new coach driver, Coren 'Ricard' Smith

Wednesday was spent on the 1916 Somme battlefields but not before we had made a visit to Haute Avesnes Military Cemetery just north of Arras and heard the story of ‘Galloper Jack’ and his famous War horse, ‘Warrior.’ We also went to Aubigny Communal cemetery where we visited the British officer’s plot of the Arras battle and Colin Butler told us the story of Lt Colonel Pretor-Pinney of the 13th Rifle Brigade, killed at Arras. In the French Civilian cemetery we also saw the graves of fathers and sons, wickedly murdered by the German, SS Totenkopf in May 1940, some boys as young as six years old, holding their father’s hand facing the Nazi machine gun. One could only imagine the pitiful scene. Later that day, we laid a wreath at the beautiful, Devonshire Cemetery in memory of our dear friend & Police Pal, Kevin Cutts, who had sadly died before his time, a month previously. ‘See you in my dreams’ by Joe Brown was played on the music box and there was hardly a dry eye. (See obituary)

Thursday was a sunny day spent of the Somme battlefields and the ‘Battle for the Woods’ with champagne at High Wood and a wonderful picnic at Delville Wood. From there, we made a visit to Ovillers Cemetery where we laid a wreath in memory of and old friend and veteran, Alf Razzell of the 8th Royal Fusiliers whose battalion had been totally decimated in the assault on the village in July 1916. Alf had become a great friend of the Hampstead pals and we had taken him back to France on eight occasions. He died in 1996. This trip was, altogether a very enjoyable and rewarding experience, in the company of like-minded friends. The dinners at the Moderne Hotel in Arras were the best yet, accompanied by good wine and superb entertainment. Bookings are now being taken for our May tour, 12-17th May 2013. There is also a tour to be announced this for this Autumn. Thank you all for your unfailing support and remembrance.
JN.