The name Avalanche Crest is fitting. From November through May, numerous avalanches start on the slopes of the crest, with some of them reaching the highway. That’s not a big surprise considering that 10 to 14 metres of snow falls each year at Rogers Pass – but it is a reminder of why the slopes are treeless – and of the power of these avalanches.

The 10.2-km return hike gains 795 m over 5.1 km, so there’s no escaping a steep climb, especially during the second half of the hike. But if you’re comfortable with a prolonged uphill hike, the scenery more than makes up for the effort. I was blown away by the mountain and glacier views at the top. Should you be looking for more dramatic mountain scenery, the Glacier Crest Trail climbs onto a rocky ridge between the Illecillewaet and Asulkan valleys, while Abbott Ridge delivers another spectacular high-elevation viewpoint.

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Avalanche Crest Trail at a Glance

Please take personal responsibility for your safety by researching conditions, preparing appropriately, and making informed decisions.

• Distance: 10.2 km return
• Elevation gain: 795 m (2,608 feet)
• Difficulty: Hard
• Time needed: 5 – 6 hours
• Type of hike: Out and back
• Trailhead: Just up from the Illecillewaet Campground (near Rogers Pass)
• Best season: Mid to late July through to September (depends on snowpack)
• Dogs: Permitted on leash
• Bears: Know how to stay safe in bear country. Carry quick to access bear spray and make noise, especially in thick vegetation. Bear bangers are not permitted in the national parks.

Map of the Avalanche Crest Trail

Note the start near of the Avalanche Crest Trail (#13) near the A. O. Wheeler Hut.

What Makes the Avalanche Crest Trail Special

I’ve done five other hikes in Glacier National Park, four of which stand out for their spectacular glacier and mountain views: the Hermit Trail, Glacier Crest Trail, Abbott Ridge, and Asulkan Valley and Hut. The Avalanche Crest Trail joins this group of first-class hikes thanks to the superlative 360-degree views from the top of the ridge.

Glaciers and mountains are everywhere you look. Should you lower your gaze to the valley floor, 2,000 metres below, you’ll see the Trans-Canada Highway heading west towards Revelstoke and more mountain peaks in the distance.

Avalanche Crest Trail Hiking Route

The road to the Illecillewaet Campground and trailhead for all the hikes from here is accessed off the Trans-Canada Highway. If you’re heading east, there is an obvious signed turnoff. But if you’re heading west, you must continue for about 1.5 km to use a marked U-turn route. You’ll need to be in the far left lane to make the turn. After you’ve made the U-turn, you can get back on the Trans-Canada Highway heading east – and look for the signs for the Illecillewaet Campground.

Avalanche Crest Trailhead and Parking

The Avalanche Crest Trail starts near the Illecillewaet Campground in Glacier National Park, about 45 minutes east of Revelstoke and about an hour west of Golden, depending on traffic and construction.

When I hiked the trail in late August 2026, I found two parking lots just past the turnoffs into the Illecillewaet Campground. Drive up as far as you can – and if you’re early enough you should be able to park in the parking lot closest to the trailhead. There is another one just down from it – and if that is full you can try to park along the road. There is also a parking area shortly after turning off the Trans-Canada Highway – but that would add almost a kilometre at the start and end of the day. Try for the closer parking lots first.

From the parking lot head up the dirt road to an intersection. Go straight (if you went left you’d reach the Arthur O. Wheeler Hut in about a minute and if you went right, you’d cross a bridge over the Illecillewaet River within 150 m.) Just one minute up the trail go left at the sign to stay on the Avalanche Crest Trail.

Hiking to the Avalanche Crest

The first part of the trail climbs up past large western red cedar and western hemlock trees as it switchbacks, climbing about 500 m over 2.7 km to reach a stream and crystal-clear pond. It’s pretty, mostly open hiking.

After the pond, the trail narrows and the vegetation thickens. That’s when we started making noise – just in case there were any bears around. The kilometre-long section through the forest was the least interesting part of the hike, but it was also where we had to pay the most attention to our footing. Don’t rush it.

Once you’re out of the forest, the trail climbs for about half a kilometre through wildflower-filled sub-alpine meadows to reach a basin. There is an obvious trail heading up the basin – likely used by climbers en route to climb Avalanche Mountain.

When you reach the basin there is a small, ground-level sign beside a trail with an arrow pointing to a viewpoint. Head up the trail to the crest – and admire the view down to the valley where you can see the Trans-Canada Highway. As tempting as it may be to stop here, don’t.

Continue on the well-used trail climbing steeply for several hundred metres to reach an “End of the Trail” sign. The signed end of the trail is a natural turnaround point for hikers. Beyond it, the route becomes rougher and more technical, so only continue if you have the appropriate experience and skills.

This was where we stopped to have lunch and revel in the views. You get good views of Mount Sir Donald, which looks remarkably like the Matterhorn, the route up to the Asulkan Hut, the Asulkan Glacier, the mountain peaks on the north side of the Trans-Canada Highway along with the glacier east of the Hermit Trail. You can also see distant peaks to the west.

After lunch we ran into several groups of people on their way up. In total – on a picture-perfect summer day, we saw about 10 people.

The descent went faster than I thought it would and we were down in 2.5 hours – after a stop to refresh our feet in the cold stream by the pond. It was a perfect day in the mountains.

The Best Views on Avalanche Crest

There are amazing views in all directions once you reach the end of trail sign on the Avalanche Crest. You can look down to the Rogers Pass centre and then up to the top of the Hermit Trail and the glacier just east of it.

You can’t miss Mount Sir Donald – the peak that looks like the Matterhorn. You’ll also see Eagle Peak, Avalanche Mountain, the Great Glacier Trail, the Vaux Glacier, the Illecillewaet Glacier, Asulkan Pass and Asulkan Glacier along with many more named peaks on both sides of the Trans-Canada Highway.

How Hard Is the Avalanche Crest Trail?

The hike on the Avalanche Crest trail is hard but is never technical. You gain 795 m of elevation over 5.1 km, with the climbing getting progressively steeper. After the obvious pond – about 2.8 km into the hike and a good place to fill water bottles or cool your feet on the descent – the trail is noticeably steeper. The final few hundred metres to the post marking the end of the trail at the top are the steepest of all – but by then the finish is in sight. Route-finding is straightforward from start to finish.

If you don’t mind a steep hike, and you love glacier and mountain views – without the crowds, then this hike is for you. According to one of the park employees, the Avalanche Crest trail is one of the least busy ones in the park – and yet it is so worth doing. My friend and I spent an hour at the top enjoying lunch with a view and truly savouring the vistas while trying to figure out the names of the mountains and glaciers we were looking at.

When to Hike Avalanche Crest Trail

The Avalanche Crest trail should be snow free to hike it safely. Check the Glacier National Park trail report before you go for the latest updates. The best time to hike the trail is generally from mid-July until the snow starts to fly in September, and that varies from year to year.

In summer you can expect wildflowers in the basin and fall colours in the understory starting in September.

Check the Windy website for a weather forecast before you go.

What to Bring on the Avalanche Crest Trail

The Avalanche Crest trail is a moderately to very steep hike on a mix of surfaces from hard-packed dirt to uneven rock to narrow sections over vegetation. I’d recommend a pair of hiking boots with a good tread. Pack a pair of collapsible hiking poles and the BeFree Katadyn water filter – so you can fill up and immediately drink at the stream. Consider carrying an InReach Mini in case of an emergency.

Avalanche Crest Trail: Know Before You Go

• Permits: A Parks Canada pass – though in some summers entrance is free
• Wildlife: Apart from bears, look for pikas, marmots and mountain birds like Steller’s jays
• Cell service: We had four bars at the top of the trail
• Hazards: Wait till the snow is gone before hiking the trail; beware of slippery rocks under wet conditions
• Avalanche terrain: Although you’re unlikely to encounter avalanche conditions during the summer hiking season, this is an avalanche-prone area. Always check current Parks Canada trail conditions before heading out.
• Washrooms: At the trailhead
• Road conditions: Check DriveBC for up-to-date road reports
• Wildfires and smoke: Visit BC Wildfire Service for up-to-date smoke and fire reports
• Pack: The hiking essentials and please practice Leave No Trace principles

Where to Stay Near Glacier National Park

There is camping at Loop Brook and Illecillewaet Campgrounds in Glacier National Park. Some sites at the Illecillewaet Campground are first come, first served. Sites cannot be booked within 48 hours of arrival. You can reserve online at Parks Canada by clicking on frontcountry camping reservations, and then choosing Glacier National Park.

There is also the option to book a bed in the A.O. Wheeler Hut, run by the Alpine Club of Canada. In summer there are 30 beds. 

You can also stay overnight in either Golden or Revelstoke. It’s about an hour’s drive to Golden and a 45-minute drive to Revelstoke.

Revelstoke Accommodation

• The Regent Hotel Revelstoke rated very good, offers onsite dining at The 112 Restaurant and a continental breakfast. Rooms are comfortable and contemporary. 
• If you’re after a B&B experience, you’d do well to choose the Courthouse Inn Revelstoke.
• If you want to be up on Revelstoke Mountain be sure to check out the Sutton Place Hotel Revelstoke Mountain Resort. It offers condominium-style accommodation.

Golden Accommodation

• Check out the Whispering Pines units offered by Lush Accommodations. It’s just a few minutes’ drive from the base of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.
• In town, I’ve stayed at the Prestige Hotel and while not fancy, it’s serviceable.
• On another occasion I stayed at the fabulous Home Lodge – where you can enjoy an outdoor hot tub and a delicious breakfast with great conversation.

More Great Hikes & Things to Do in Glacier National Park and Nearby

• The Hermit Trail Hike in Glacier National Park BC – A challenging hike in Glacier National Park that rewards strong hikers with solitude, alpine scenery, and sweeping mountain views.
• Great Glacier Trail in Glacier National Park, BC – One of the easier hikes in Glacier National Park that rewards with views of Mount Sir Donald, the Vaux Glacier and waterfalls.
• A Hike to Eva Lake, Mount Revelstoke National Park, BC – The hike to Eva Lake in Mount Revelstoke National Park is a rewarding alpine adventure through wildflower meadows and subalpine forest to a quiet mountain lake with big views.
• 11 Things to Do in Summer in Revelstoke – A curated list of the best summer activities in Revelstoke, from hiking to paddleboarding and rafting.
• Best Fall Hikes in Golden, BC & Nearby – Explore a selection of Golden, BC’s top autumn trails with stunning fall colors and unforgettable mountain scenery.

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If you like the idea of hiking in the backcountry but don’t love sleeping in a tent, backcountry lodges in the Canadian Rockies offer a great way to enjoy spectacular wilderness without carrying a full load of camping gear. Shovel Pass Lodge is one of them, and it provides a very appealing way to experience the Skyline Trail. Enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery while carrying only a daypack, with all meals provided, and a comfortable bed in a private cabin to sleep in at the end of the day.

This post was done in partnership with Tourism Jasper. This post may include affiliate links. If you make a qualifying purchase through one of these links, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my website.

The Skyline Trail: One of Canada’s Most Iconic Backpacking Trips

The 44-kilometre-long Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park is a world-class hike and one of the most scenic backpacking trips in Canada thanks in large part to stunning wildflower-filled meadows, panoramic mountain views for over half its length, several pretty alpine lakes, and a section above treeline that offers views of Mount Robson in British Columbia.

The hiking season is short in part because The Notch – the crux of the hike – needs to be snow-free and in some years that doesn’t happen until mid-July. Demand is high for campsites and they are usually gone within minutes when Parks Canada opens Jasper National Park backcountry reservations, usually sometime in late January.

• Distance: Approximately 44 km (27.3 miles) one way
• Elevation gain/loss: 1,205 m/3,952 feet and – 1,735 m/5,690 feet assuming a start at Maligne Lake
• Time needed: 2 – 4 days
• Best time to hike: Mid-July to September
• Why it’s so popular: It’s the highest and most scenic trail in Jasper National Park with a long stretch above treeline offering incomparable mountain views.
• Alpine scenery: Alpine valleys burst with wildflowers in the summer; in the fall the understory is incredibly colourful and beautiful

Why Stay at Shovel Pass Lodge?

A stay at Shovel Pass Lodge, just off the Skyline Trail near the Curator Campground, is a great option for hikers who would like to experience this spectacular hike without lugging camping gear. Split the Skyline Trail into two days. On day one hike 21 km from the Maligne trailhead and on day two, tackle the 25 km over The Notch to the Signal trailhead. Some people opt for another night or two at the lodge, so they can explore more of the area like Curator Lake, Watchtower Ridge and Basin, or Amber Mountain at a relaxed pace. Note that the lodge is open from July 1 – September 15th.

Booking a night or two at the lodge is an ideal option if you:

• Dislike camping and prefer a solid roof over your head in the backcountry
• Like the idea of hearty home-cooked meals prepared for you
• Prefer to carry only a day pack rather than the full load needed for camping
• Enjoy the camaraderie of fellow hikers
• Are able to hike two long days
• Like the thought of an indoor, bug-free meal
• Are okay with washing up with hot water rather than having a shower

Shovel Pass Lodge Location on the Skyline Trail

Shovel Pass Lodge is located just west and below Curator Campground, at the edge of a big meadow.

Where Is Shovel Pass Lodge on the Skyline Trail?

The lodge is 1.1 km southwest of the signed intersection with the Skyline Trail heading northwest to The Notch. Descend approximately 195 m to reach the lodge. It’s about three minutes down the trail from the Curator Campground.

The lodge is 21 km from the southern trailhead across from Maligne Lake. It’s also approximately 25 km from the Signal trailhead. The lodge can also be accessed from the Icefields Parkway via a 14.4 km long trail.

Hiking to Shovel Pass Lodge: What to Expect

• Distance: ~21 km
• Elevation gain/loss: +551m/-150 m
• Time needed: 5.5 – 8 hours

I hiked to Shovel Pass Lodge with a couple of friends. We had parked cars at the Signal trailhead off Maligne Road and caught a one-way shuttle with Maligne Adventures. About 45 minutes later, we were dropped off at the southern trailhead for the Skyline Trail.

We did the hike the first week of August and enjoyed fantastic sunny but not-too-hot weather and excellent trail conditions – with just the odd muddy spot around.

In the morning we made good time with quick stops at Lorraine and Mona Lake before reaching the Evelyn Creek Campground at ~4.8 km. The hiking got more interesting with better views and more wildflowers once we passed Little Shovel Campground at 8.3 km. Our lunch break at Little Shovel Pass, 10.1 km from the trailhead turned out to be a fortuitous stop. It’s here I saw my first wolverine in the wild up on a patch of snow. It took the three of us some time to decide if it was actually a wolverine and not a marmot – but its behaviour, profile and fuzzy pictures confirmed it was indeed a wolverine.

After lunch the hiking got more interesting with huge wildflower-filled alpine meadows – and grand views. We passed Snowbowl Campground as helicopters were replacing full ‘honey buckets’ of human waste with empty ones. The flies were nasty through here.

Next up was Big Shovel Pass followed by a long easy ascent and descent to reach the intersection of The Watchtower and then The Notch. From there it’s a 1.1 km descent to reach Shovel Pass Lodge.

Hiking from Shovel Pass Lodge to the End of the Skyline Trail

• Distance: ~25 km
• Elevation gain/loss: +440 m to The Notch, -430 m to Tekarra Campground and -900m to Signal parking lot on Maligne Road
• Time needed: 7 – 10 hours

The morning starts off with a stiff climb back up to the intersection with the trail to The Notch – and then onwards steeply at times towards the crux of the hike – The Notch itself at the pass. The difficult part doesn’t last for long. It’s mainly loose footing on scree, but if you take your time with foot placement you’re literally through it in five minutes.

On bad weather days, you’ll need to make a choice if thunderstorms or snowstorms (which can happen at any time in the summer) are in the forecast. The 3 km of trail above The Notch are no place to be in either type of storm. Backtrack if need be to stay safe.

I think the 3 km section above The Notch is one of the most rewarding parts of the Skyline Trail. I love how the trail undulates – offering views down towards the Icefields Parkway on one side and out towards The Watchtower and Centre Mountain along with a couple of small lakes on the other.

The descent to Tekarra Campground is quite wonderful with wildflowers, a rushing stream, likely a marmot or two, and a very good view of Tekarra Mountain. After you pass Tekarra Campground there is some minor climbing through great patches of wildflowers to reach the turnoff to the Signal Campground and the Signal Mountain Fire Road.

What used to be a joyless last 8.5 km on the fire road, is still a knee-pounding descent – but since the 2024 Jasper fire, the forest is alive with wildflowers and the black and spotted remains of charred trees. It’s now a very beautiful section – but still stay alert for bears.

Staying at Shovel Pass Lodge eliminates the heavy backpack, but it sure doesn’t remove the challenge as the second day is still a long, demanding hike – and it’s not for everyone.

What It’s Like Staying at Shovel Pass Lodge

Sleeping arrangements

There are seven cabins that can accommodate 19 people in total depending on the mix of double and single beds. The cabins are simple and very clean. All have heating and lanterns, hooks for clothes, as well as a mirror and a washbasin.

Facilities

There is one main lodge with a wood-burning fireplace and a comfortable couch and chair. There are a couple of long tables with chairs in the dining room, fresh water for drinking, and a fine selection of books and games. Outside there is a covered porch with seating and a view of the meadow. Two outhouses are onsite and a cold plunge pool is a short hike away, though I never went looking for it.

Food

Shortly after we arrived we sat down outside and enjoyed cheese and crackers along with apple slices and salami, enough to keep the hunger pangs away until dinner was served. I was also able to buy a glass of wine for $10 cash. Beer and cider are your other beverage options.

Atmosphere

I found the lodge to be welcoming and friendly. It was fun to meet the other groups and hear about their travel plans. One couple was staying for a second night so they could savour the experience. A group of guys from Iowa were looking forward to the next stretch and thankful they weren’t carrying heavy packs. One lady had visited the lodge several other times – but as an out-and-back hike from the Maligne Lake trailhead – an option if you don’t want to deal with both The Notch and a longer day’s hike out.

What to bring

Pack an overnight change of clothes, a headlamp, cash, first aid supplies, any medications you need, a pair of camp shoes or sandals, and some warm layers for when the sun goes down. I’d also recommend a small quick-dry towel and perhaps a book or e-reader should you have some spare time.

Shovel Pass Lodge vs. Camping on the Skyline Trail

Shovel Pass Lodge is a great choice when compared to camping if you have the money and the wherewithal to hike two long days on the Skyline Trail. It’s also a great option if you didn’t score any campsites on the Skyline Trail.

Who Should Consider Staying at Shovel Pass Lodge?

In late January every year when the Parks Canada reservation system opens for Jasper National Park, there is a mad rush to get backcountry reservations on the Skyline Trail. Many people come up short. If you live in Alberta or British Columbia you probably have a degree of flexibility – and can always try again the following year. You can also try to get a cancellation with Schnerp – a service that scans for cancellations and sends you alerts. But for those that will likely never be back in the Canadian Rockies again – you could hike the Skyline Trail with a stay at the lodge.

Shovel Pass Lodge is also great for strong hikers who want the Skyline Trail experience but don’t want to carry a heavy pack. It’s perfect for people short on time as most people only stay one night. It’s also a good fit for older hikers who have the money and still want the backcountry experience, but prefer a more comfortable backcountry experience.

I’ve done both – and at my stage in life, I’m very happy to enjoy a soft bed and home-cooked meals. It saved me a lot of time not having to book online in January when the Parks Canada reservation system opens. With room for 19 people, there is some flexibility in dates. Note that they do open for 2027 bookings on October 1, 2026 at 8 AM MT.

Final Thoughts: Is Shovel Pass Lodge Worth It?

I think Shovel Pass Lodge is well worth a visit. A stay here is a real treat – especially with comfortable beds and delicious meals. I also love the fact that you can book in October for the following summer and there isn’t the frenzied rush of trying to nab a backcountry campsite on the Skyline Trail.

More Backpacking Trips in the Canadian Rockies

• 10 Beginner Backpacking Trips in the Canadian Rockies – A helpful guide for new backpackers, showcasing accessible trails with stunning scenery and manageable terrain in the Rockies.
• Jacques Lake Backpacking Trail: An Overnight Hike in Jasper National Park – Leave the crowds behind on an overnight backpacking trip to Jacques Lake in Jasper National Park, where forest trails lead to mountain views, quiet lakes, and a beautiful backcountry campsite.
• Chaba Trail Backpacking Guide: One of Jasper’s Best Beginner Backpacking Trips – A detailed guide to backpacking the Chaba Trail with everything you need to know for one of Jasper’s best beginner-friendly backcountry trips.
• Tonquin Valley Hike – What You Need to Know – A multi-day backpacking route in Jasper National Park passing Amethyst Lakes, open meadows, The Ramparts in prime wildlife habitat.
• The Brazeau Loop Trail Hike in Jasper National Park – A challenging multi-day loop that showcases some of Jasper’s most remote terrain, from braided rivers and alpine passes to vast wilderness solitude.

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While beluga whales were the star of the five-day Belugas for the Bold program at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre – there is much more to see and do in Churchill in summer. We searched for and found two polar bears along the shores of Hudson Bay, hiked on trails bursting with Arctic wildflowers, explored Canada’s only rocket facility (long abandoned), and listened to stories that transformed my thinking about the area.

This guide is based on my experiences as part of the Belugas for the Bold program. It will show you what it’s really like to visit Churchill in summer – and whether a trip like this would mesh with your interests.

What is the Belugas for the Bold program?

The 5-day Belugas for the Bold program based at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre in Churchill ran for the first time in July 2026. Designed for a small group of 11 participants, it included a mix of outdoor activities, research lectures, a cultural presentation, and evening art classes. The program is designed for active, curious travelers interested in wildlife, nature, and science.

Experience several up-close encounters with beluga whales in the Churchill River estuary including sea kayaking and paddleboarding with the option of a zodiac tour for anyone with mobility issues. In addition, there are lectures about belugas given by onsite researchers.

More daily tours are offered – some with a focus on finding polar bears in summer, while others are more nature or history-oriented hikes. There was time set aside to see the local highlights around Churchill including the Churchill murals, the large Inukshuk in town overlooking Hudson Bay, the Itsanitaq Museum, and the Churchill Rocket Research Range.

I joined the program on a hosted media trip with Travel Manitoba, though most participants were paying guests.

Who Will Love This Trip?

I think the trip would be a great fit if you:

• Enjoy up-close wildlife experiences
• Would like to kayak and paddleboard among beluga whales
• Care about science, research, and conservation
• Like guided hikes and exploring outdoors
• Are okay with a full schedule and little down time
• Enjoy small group travel
• Love meeting people from all walks of life
• Don’t mind simple shared accommodation and facilities

I’d highly recommend Belugas for the Bold to active travelers who love learning as much as they enjoy wildlife viewing.

Who Might Not Enjoy it So Much?

This trip might not be the best choice if you:

• Prefer luxurious accommodation
• Need a private room with an ensuite bathroom
• Like free time and exploring on your own
• Aren’t that interested in research and educational lectures
• Don’t like bugs (though they weren’t that bad)
• Prefer private activities and outings
• Only want to see polar bears in Churchill

If polar bears in Churchill are your main interest, I would highly recommend a polar bear trip in fall rather than the summer experience focused on belugas.

What It’s Like to Stay at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre

The Churchill Northern Studies Centre is located in a remote setting about a 30-minute drive outside of Churchill in the heart of polar bear country. As such you aren’t permitted to leave the building unless you are directed to get on a shuttle or you’re heading out on a guided walk with a bear guard in attendance. There is an upper outside deck and a fenced in grassy area on the lower level should you crave some fresh air.

The other thing of note – that not all will enjoy – are dorm rooms with bunk beds (up to four to a room), and shared bathroom facilities.

On the plus side, the food served cafeteria-style is very good. There’s also a diverse mix of people staying at the facility – including Arctic-focused researchers along with whoever is in your group for the multi-day program you signed up for. In ours we had people from England, Canada, and the US. You can expect interesting discussions at meal time.

Best Time to Do Belugas for the Bold in Churchill

Late July 2026 was the only time the Belugas for the Bold program was offered. It’s a great time of year to visit as the beluga numbers in the Churchill Estuary are high, there’s a reasonable chance of seeing polar bears, and if you’re really lucky you’ll catch an aurora display in the wee hours.

Should they ever offer a tour in August, you would still enjoy a high number of beluga whales, along with increased chances of polar bear sightings and better aurora displays with longer evenings. However, you need a dose of luck to get all three the way I did – or a great roommate who will wake you up for the aurora the way mine did.

A Typical Day on the Belugas for the Bold Program

You’ll find that there is a rhythm to the day – and that there isn’t a lot of down time.

• Breakfast at Churchill Northern Studies Centre (CNSC) at 8 AM
• Morning field activity usually starts at 9 AM
• Lunch in town, packed lunch or lunch at CNSC at noon
• Around 1 PM there is usually a full afternoon excursion getting back between 4:30 – 5:30 PM
• Dinner is available from 5 – 6 PM
• Evening lecture or activity like print making at 7 PM for 1 – 2 hours
• Free time

Kayaking with Beluga Whales on the Churchill River

One of my life’s biggest thrills was kayaking with beluga whales on the Churchill River. I would happily have done it every day while visiting Churchill.

The beluga whales number in the thousands in the Churchill River estuary, so the likelihood of having close encounters with these curious mammals is extraordinarily high. I had multiple occasions with up to five belugas around my boat – including babies.

One of the zodiac drivers – who was keeping an eye on the kayakers, told me that if I wanted them to come close, I needed to paddle a lot and sing to them. I did both – and found that they were more likely to visit me when I was away from groups of paddlers.

Never did I feel fearful or unsafe. Exhilarated and happy are better words. I have a lot of experience kayaking on the west coast of Canada, so I was always very comfortable on the water. The company we went with Sea North Tours – stationed zodiacs around a large perimeter – and we could paddle anywhere within that area. Over a couple of hours, I got loads of exercise, trying out different places but predicting where belugas were going to surface was next to impossible.

Getting good photos or video was a challenge. One second the belugas are beside the boat, then swimming under it – and then on the other side before doing a tail splash and a deeper dive. Throw in some waves and current, and you need to be adept at moving quickly to get photos that aren’t simply a white blob or blur. The few who were in the zodiac had better luck with photos than I did.

All in all this is a bucket-list worthy experience I would recommend to anyone who enjoys up close nature encounters.

Paddleboarding Among Hundreds of Belugas

After donning a 7 mm thick wet suit and a short briefing by Erin Greene, owner of SUP North we made our way to the zodiacs where paddleboards lay stacked on the back of the boat. The wind had picked up, so the plan was to motor part way across the Churchill River in search of more sheltered water.

The boat ride itself was a thrill with loads of beluga whales surfacing within easy viewing distance. But unlike kayaking with belugas and covering a lot of distance, the plan on the paddleboard – was to kneel and simply drift, paddling occasionally while willing the belugas to come closer.

I had more up-close beluga whale encounters in my kayak but I did enjoy one thrilling moment when three whales came up right by my paddleboard. What an intimate experience that was! One fellow in our group had the belugas immediately beside his board on at least three separate occasions. One occurrence after a beluga’s nudge left him swimming in the river – and by all accounts more thrilled than scared.

Sometimes you could hear the belugas exhale before you saw them. I would try to maneuver into position but I wasn’t as adept at paddleboarding as I was with kayaking. Still, if you have the chance and you’re able to kneel or sit on a paddleboard for a couple of hours, you’ll have a superlative experience.

Erin’s ongoing chatter with the whales, her ability to learn everyone’s name within minutes, and her habit of giving a heads-up when a whale seemed to be approaching made the experience feel especially personal.

I was the only one in our group who would choose kayaking over paddleboarding – primarily because of more close-up encounters, better pictures – and I felt like I’d had some exercise. But everyone else preferred the intimacy of paddleboarding. I think you’ll need to try both and come to your own conclusion.

Searching for Polar Bears Around Churchill

From July through late August, it’s possible to see polar bears around Churchill since they head for shore once the sea ice starts melting. They remain on land, waiting for Hudson Bay to freeze again – usually sometime in November. Over the ice-free period the bears conserve their energy, spending much of the time resting or sleeping on the Hudson Bay shoreline or in the tundra – and relying on fat reserves they built up hunting seals in winter and spring.

If seeing polar bears is the chief reason for visiting Churchill, it is important to understand how different summer sightings are from the famous October and November tundra-buggy season. I’ve written a detailed breakdown of costs, crowd levels, wildlife encounters, and whether I think the experience is truly worth the trip in my post Is Seeing Polar Bears in Churchill Worth It? My Honest Experience.

We were lucky to see two polar bears – both initially as white blobs swimming in Hudson Bay. We followed them with binoculars, admiring their power and grace in the water. Can they ever move quickly!

Our guide Caleb Ross with Nanuk Operations made an educated guess on where one of them planned to land and got us back onto the bus so we could make the quick drive to the area he presumed the bear was heading for. Sure enough it came ashore and then lazily sauntered up from the beach through swaths of pink fireweed – but in no time disappeared behind a hill. No wonder Caleb carried a rifle at all times. Polar bear safety is taken very seriously around Churchill – as the bears seemingly melt into the landscape.

Sloop Cove, Tidal Flats and Churchill’s Arctic Landscapes

The scenic 5 kilometre hike from Sloop Cove to the boat dock for the Prince of Wales Fort was one of the most interesting hikes we did. Led by guide Rhonda Reid, it covered history, wildlife, and botany in a way that made every stop compelling. We saw the famous inscription left by Arctic explorer Samuel Hearne in July 1767 at Sloop Cove and learned the names and traditional uses of many of the wildflowers we encountered along the way.

As we passed the nesting area of some Arctic terns – Rhonda suggested we hold sticks over our heads to prevent the birds from dive-bombing us. We also learned that the Arctic terns undertake the longest migration of any bird – traveling round-trip from the Arctic to the Antarctic each year.

One of the most memorable stops was beside aninconspicuous boulder where Rhonda explained how stone blocks for the Prince of Wales Fort were shaped by hand. It’s hard to imagine how many years of hard labour were required to turn the rocks into blocks for the fort’s walls.

Hiking Churchill’s Tundra and Tidal Flats

A Short Arctic Walk on the Ramsey Trail

One morning we enjoyed a nature walk on the short and easy Ramsey Trail. Over about an hour I learned that only three tree species grow around Churchill: tamarack (larch), white spruce, and black spruce.

The berries were another story. Even along this short trail we found out that an impressive variety could grow here – including bearberries, crowberries, lingonberries, cloudberries, cranberries, blueberries, and currants. You’d need a lot of patience because of their size to collect enough for a snack, let alone to make jam.

One of the highlights was spotting a huge trumpeter swan with its babies. Another was seeing the remains of an exploded rocket, a reminder that 3,321 rockets were launched from the Churchill Rocket Research Range, with most between 1957 and 1986, though one final rocket with a Canadian Space Agency payload was launched in 1998.

Hiking to the MV Ithaca at Low Tide

An easy, fun low-tide hike across the tidal flats to a shipwreck – the MV Ithaca was one my favourite outings of the trip that didn’t involve beluga whales. It’s one of the most photographed landmarks in the Churchill area – but timing is important.

Hike out at low tide to experience the rusting shipwreck up close. This one ran aground in September 1960 during during a gale with winds of 130 km per hour. No lives were lost as all men were able to walk to shore.

There was something very compelling about the scene – with enormous blue skies, seabirds, the vastness of Hudson Bay – and a rusting vessel, still standing after 65 years.

From Beluga Whales to Rockets: Another Side of Churchill

When I visited Churchill the first time to see polar bears, I was shocked to learn that there was a Churchill Rocket Research Range – that ultimately launched over 3,000 rockets between 1954 and 1998. That wasn’t something we ever learned in school!

Rockets were initially launched to study the aurora borealis and its effect on long distance communications. That would expand to include the upper atmosphere and ionosphere. Most of the work stopped in 1985 – but there was one short reactivation in 1998 when Akjuit Aerospace made one last commercial launch.

Today the place has a somewhat eerie, abandoned feeling to it. Structures are tired and weathered with old trucks and equipment around the site still in place. You can visit several of the buildings where the rocket launcher looks antiquated by today’s standards. Reportedly there were tunnels to protect the workers because of the challenging northern climate – though I don’t know if they are around.

The place is well worth visiting – especially as much of the research was done during the Cold War. It certainly rates as one of the more unusual historic sites in Manitoba.

Exploring Churchill’s SeaWalls Murals

The SeaWalls Churchill mural project organized by Winnipeg artist Kal Barteski in cooperation with the PangeaSeed Foundation officially started in mid-June 2017 – though the organization for the 10-day long event began well beforehand. The goal – bring an international contingent of artists to Churchill to paint massive outdoor murals on empty buildings and abandoned structures along 30 kilometres of Hudson Bay shoreline.

Initially the project was conceived to educate both visitors and locals about marine conservation and ocean protection, but ultimately it brought hope and recognition to a community that was suffering from isolation – thanks to the loss of the railroad connection due to flooding – and economic hardship because of soaring prices. It’s well presented in the Know I’m Here documentary.

If you look at before and after pictures, you can see just how much the murals have revamped the town – adding colour and stories with themes of local wildlife, climate change, ocean conservation, and community resilience. Many of the murals are tourist destinations in their own right now – like Miss Piggy – a plane crash transformed by artist Pat Perry.

On any trip to Churchill, tour companies will ensure you see at least a smattering of these murals. Many are in the town itself and you can’t miss them. But, some of the most notable large scale murals are up to 30-minute drive away.

Learning from a Sayisi Dene First Nation Speaker

One morning we were lucky to meet and listen to Florence Hamilton – a Sayisi Dene woman who runs a company called Dene Routes. Hers was a sobering talk – touching on broken promises by the Canadian government and the loss of many elders before their collective wisdom and oral history could be shared.

I had come to Churchill for the beluga whales but I left with a deeper understanding of the region’s history and a new respect for the culture and resilience of the Sayisi Dene people.

An Unexpected Aurora Display at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre

It’s 2 AM and my roommate, Jess – is tapping me on the shoulder saying “Leigh, Leigh wake up.” I drag myself out of bed, grabbing my phone and camera, running down the deserted hallway to the outer deck. Outside, it’s inky black with faint traces of the aurora visible to the human eye – but “nothing like the night before” Jess says. I’ve seen the aurora on numerous occasions – from magical displays on a winter’s night in Whitehorse to dancing lights over Calgary.

But I didn’t expect to see the aurora in Churchill in late July. Nights are still very short – and although it wasn’t of the quality I’ve enjoyed at other locations, it was one of the unexpected highlights of my stay at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre.

Should the Belugas for the Bold learning vacation offer future dates in August, you’ll have longer nights and a better opportunity to catch this magical northern phenomenon.

Is the Belugas for the Bold Program Worth It?

For me – a nature lover and someone who loves learning – the answer is an emphatic yes. Kayaking and paddleboarding with the belugas was worth the trip alone.

But what surprised me about the Churchill Northern Studies Centre program was how multi-dimensional it was. Churchill in summer offers so much more than I expected – thanks to wildlife like polar bears, the variety of birds – like the fascinating Arctic terns, the hikes, cultural learning, and lectures. The evening art class with Meg Hainstock was the activity I was least interested in but ended up enjoying immensely.

I also loved the small group size – just 11 including myself – so it was really easy to get to know everyone including the guides and researchers. I enjoyed so many interesting conversations over meals in the cafeteria and while traveling to sites around Churchill.

The biggest downsides are the dorm-style rooms and shared bathrooms. If you’re after a luxury vacation, this is not it. But if you’re a traveler who loves learning, wildlife and unique northern experiences, then I think you’ll find the five-night Belugas for the Bold program to be one of the most unique summer trips in Canada.

Tips for Visiting Churchill in Beluga Season

Book early – Programs at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre fill quickly. If the multi-day Belugas for the Bold program sounds like something you’d enjoy, book the minute dates are released.

Pack for a variety of weather – It was warm when I visited Churchill in late July, but temperatures are usually all over the map. It can be windy and rainy, so pack merino wool layers, a waterproof jacket, and a sun hat. You are given wetsuits for the paddleboarding activity.

Be prepared for bugs – Pack the bug repellent and a face net as you can expect black flies and mosquitoes. The centre offers bug jackets, but if you’re traveling privately consider bringing the original bug jacket.

Choose the beluga experience that best suits you – I found that kayaking was the most intimate way to see the belugas – though most of my group preferred the paddleboarding. Another option especially for anyone with mobility issues is a zodiac tour. Those in our group that did it raved about the experience – and were able to get really good photos, especially because they sat a little higher.

Bring binoculars – If you have a powerful pair of binoculars, pack them. It was one of the guests that first noticed the polar bear swimming thanks to her binoculars. If you’re a birder, you’ll certainly want them.

Don’t expect luxury – The Churchill Northern Studies Centre enjoys a fabulous setting close to the rocket range, about a 30-minute drive from Churchill. Inside dorm-style rooms are simple – with two sets of bunkbeds and shared bathrooms and showers. Meals are cafeteria style.

Allow an extra day in Churchill if possible – With an extra night in town, you could sign up for beluga boarding – an activity where you lie face down on a padded board while being towed. Put your head in the water with a mask on to see the belugas below the surface.

My biggest surprise of the week? While the beluga experiences surpassed my expectations, I found the summer trip to Churchill to be far more compelling than expected. Fascinating wildflower and history-filled nature walks, polar bears, the SeaWalls Churchill murals, a talk by a Sayisi Dene woman, and even the northern lights made Churchill in summer feel far more interesting and varied than your average wildlife trip.

More Manitoba and Canada Travel Inspiration

• 8 Best Outdoor Adventures in Manitoba – From beluga whales in Churchill to paddling pristine lakes and hiking remote wilderness trails, discover Manitoba’s most unforgettable outdoor experiences.
• 22 Must Do Outdoor Adventures in Canada – A coast-to-coast collection of bucket-list Canadian adventures, including hiking, paddling, wildlife encounters, rail journeys, and epic road trips.
• A Spectacular Long Weekend at Great Bear Lodge – Experience grizzly bears, salmon runs, and the wild beauty of the Great Bear Rainforest on one of Canada’s most iconic wildlife trips.
• 9 Best Adventures in Nova Scotia – Trade the Arctic for the Atlantic with coastal hikes, kayaking, whale watching, and scenic road trips.
• A Trip to See the Yukon Northern Lights – If the unexpected aurora in Churchill sparked your interest, this is where to plan a dedicated northern lights trip.

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If you’re looking for a first overnight backpacking adventure in the mountains, the Chaba Trail is a great place to start. The route travels through a valley to meet the Athabasca River. Navigation is straightforward, you lose rather than gain elevation, and the riverside campground is a beauty – overlooking the Athabasca River with mountains and glaciers in your line of sight. The Chaba Trail offers many of the perks of a Rocky Mountain backpacking trip without the commitment or difficulty of some of Jasper’s longer wilderness routes like the Skyline Trail.

I’ve got a compilation of beginner backpacking trips in the Canadian Rockies that are wonderful options for first-time backpackers. The Chaba Trail will be my latest addition because it combines easy logistics and navigation with a beautiful campground and a true backcountry experience.

In this guide, I cover everything you might need to know to plan your own Chaba Trail backpacking trip. That includes getting backcountry permits for campsites, what to expect on the trail, what I learned from my own experience, and useful tips to make your first overnight backpacking trip a success.

This post includes affiliate links. If you make a qualifying purchase through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my website.

Chaba Trail Overview

Hikers should take personal responsibility for their safety by researching conditions, preparing appropriately, and making informed decisions.

• Distance: 12.6 km return to Big Bend campground, 29.6 km return to the Athabasca Crossing Campground
• Elevation gain/loss: Approximately 50 m descent to Big Bend Campground
• Time required: 2-3 days return as a backpacking trip
• Difficulty: Easy to Big Bend and moderate to Athabasca Crossing because of distance
• Campgrounds: Big Bend and Athabasca Crossing
• Best season: August and September after the mosquitoes and other bugs have died back
• Dogs: Yes, on leash
• Permit required: National Park pass and a backcountry camping reservation if you plan to camp

How to Get Backcountry Campsites on the Chaba Trail

Every year backcountry campsite reservations for Jasper National Park open sometime in late January. For 2026, they opened on January 28 at 8 AM MT. From that day forward you can book for the coming summer either online – or by calling 1 -877-737-3783 in North America or 1-519-826-5391 outside North America.

Online can be confusing at first. Click on backcountry, then backcountry zone, then Jasper National Park under park, and then select your access point – which in this case is Sunwapta Falls. Then you can pick the campground you want from there.

If you can’t get the dates you’re after, set up an alert with Schnerp – and you will get notified when there is a cancellation.

Getting to the Trailhead for the Chaba Trail

The Chaba Trail shares the trailhead to Sunwapta Falls, one of the popular stops along the Icefields Parkway.

From Jasper it’s about a 55-kilometre drive south on the Icefields Parkway. Allow about 40 minutes. If you’re coming from Lake Louise it’s a 177-kilometre drive that will take around 2 hours.

There is a side road off the Icefields Parkway adjacent to Sunwapta Falls Rocky Mountain Lodge. Turn right if coming from Jasper, or left if heading north and drive down it to reach a parking lot and the trailhead. PLEASE, park in the first open spot you find to avoid creating a traffic jam.

Chaba Trail Hike Topo Map

Why Backpack the Chaba Trail?

The Chaba Trail is short and easy, perfect for bikepackers and backpackers looking for a quick one night trip into the backcountry. Although much of the hiking is an uninspiring walk through the forest, the Big Bend Campground on the shores of the Athabasca River is a beauty – and it alone makes the trip worthwhile.

The Chaba Trail is at lower elevation than many of the Jasper National Park trails, so it makes a good early season trip if you can beat the bugs. Otherwise, wait till August when they’ve died back. Trust me on this one. It’s also not very busy, except at the exciting start beside Sunwapta Falls.

There is the option to do and out-and-back hike as a day trip to Athabasca Crossing – far preferable in my books to lugging a backpack that distance. If you’re lucky like we were, you might see a moose off in the distance, and there were certainly plenty of bird species around to keep things interesting.

Chaba Trail Backpacking Itinerary

We had planned to spend two nights at Big Bend Campground but after the first night we called it quits and didn’t do the planned out and back day hike to Athabasca Crossing – all because the MOSQUITOES were so BAD.

Day 1: Trailhead to Big Bend Campground

It’s a straightforward hike from Sunwapta Falls to the Big Bend Campground. The Chaba Trail starts on the far side of the viewpoint bridge over Sunwapta Falls Canyon. Follow an old road as it descends very gradually through dense forest to reach the turnoff to the Big Bend Campground.

There are some minor ups and downs, a few muddy sections, some roots, and lots of wildflowers along the edges of the Chaba Trail if you’re backpacking it in late June into July. The mosquitoes became noticeable about 2 km before we reached the campground.

The final 250 m of the trail gives you an inkling of just how close the campsite is to the Athabasca River. Big Bend Campground is beautifully situated with the best views at the eating area. You also get a breeze here which helps to keep the bugs at bay. The campsites are situated close to the Athabasca River – where you’ll find the bugs to be much worse.

Day 2: Explore Farther up the Valley

If you have a second night at the Big Bend Campground you could hike 17.2 km return to Athabasca Crossing. One look at the topographical map, and you can see that the trail is almost entirely flat over its full length.

There is a short side trail you can take to explore tiny Long Lake. And until 2014, adventurous backpackers could cross the Athabasca River via the Athabasca suspension bridge and continue for another 8.6 km to Fortress Lake in BC’s Hamber Provincial Park.

Day 3: Hike Back to the Sunwapta Falls Trailhead

After nixing the hike to Athabasca Crossing, we enjoyed breakfast and a couple of cups of coffee while enjoying superlative views of the mountains and Athabasca River. We had the campground to ourselves after a lone bikepacker took off first thing in the morning. The campground had been fully booked, but no one showed up except the bikepacker, who arrived around 8 PM. And he had planned to camp at Athabasca Crossing but saw that he wasn’t putting anyone out by camping with us.

What to Expect on the Chaba Trail

On the Chaba Trail you can expect dense forest until you reach Big Bend Campground. Then the magic happens – with wonderful vistas up and down the Athabasca River. There are some muddy sections but most of the trail offers easy hiking.

Chaba Trail Campsites

Big Bend Campsite

• Distance from trailhead: 6.3 km
• Water: Treat everything or filter
• Tent pads: Four down by the Athabasca River
• Food storage: Bear locker
• Views: Athabasca River, Dragon Peak up valley, glaciers
• Facilities: Fire pit, picnic tables, pit toilet

Athabasca Crossing Campground

• Distance from trailhead: 14.8 km
• Water: Treat everything or filter
• Tent pads: Four by the Athabasca River
• Food storage: Bear locker
• Views: Athabasca River, Upper Athabasca River
• Facilities: Fire pit, picnic tables, pit toilet

Wildlife and Bear Safety

Like every trail in the Rocky Mountain national parks, it pays to be prepared for wildlife encounters.

Before you go, refresh your memory regarding bear safety tips. Every adult should carry a can of easy to access bear spray and know how and when to use it. Make noise, especially when you’re hiking through thick vegetation. Your voice does a much better job of alerting bears than do bear bells.

At camp, keep all your toiletries and food in the bear lockers. Keep a clean campsite too.

Other animals you might see include elk or moose. Give them space and they shouldn’t present any problems.

Best Time to Backpack the Chaba Trail

I’d recommend backpacking the Chaba Trail as soon as the snow has melted and the campground is officially open – but before the bugs show up. It might be muddy but it also feels so good to be out in the mountains backpacking early in the season. Beware of river levels and any Parks Canada trail warnings before you head out.

Then give the Chaba Trail a pass until sometime in August. You might still get some wildflowers and you’ll lose the nasty biting insects. September might offer fall colours, at least in the understory. And the campground is also slightly quieter – not that it’s ever going to be crazy with just four tent pads.

What to Pack for the Chaba Trail

Pack as lightly as you can for a more enjoyable hike in, but be sure you’ve got the hiking essentials in your backpack. A warm coat, hat, mitts and a raincoat are all worthwhile additions – even in summer.

Water filter: You’ll need a way to purify your water. Lately I’ve been using the Katadyn BeFree 1L collapsible microfilter and simply refilling my Nalgene bottles by squirting clean water from the filter into it. I also always carry water purification tablets, especially as they weigh almost nothing.

Paper maps: Gem Trek Jasper and Maligne Lake or NTS maps Athabasca Falls 83C/12 and Fortress Lake 83C/95.

Insect repellent: Forget it at your peril. It’s worth getting a repellent with Deet in it. If you’re visiting in peak bug season bring a head net too.

Tips for First-time Backpackers on the Chaba Trail

• Keep pack weight reasonable
• Start early so you’re in well before dark
• Trekking poles help if you have bad knees or there is a lot of mud around
• Purify your water
• Bring layers for cold nights
• Reserve campsites early. If you don’t get the days you want, try Schnerp and you’ll be notified of cancellations on your chosen dates almost as soon as they happen.

FAQs – Chaba Trail Backpacking

Final Thoughts on Backpacking the Chaba Trail

The Chaba Trail is one of the best beginner backpacking trips in Jasper National Park. It’s a great one for a first overnight – even with younger families, but watch your kids along the Athabasca River like a hawk. The Big Bend Campground is one of the most beautiful ones I’ve visited – and it’s well laid out too. The downside to the trip is that the Chaba Trail to the campground isn’t that interesting (though at least it’s short) and in late June and well into July it can be uncomfortably buggy.

More Beginner Backpacking Trips in the Canadian Rockies

• The Glacier Lake Hike in Banff National Park – An easy to moderate 9 km round-trip hike to pretty Glacier Lake surrounded by alpine peaks.
• Tonquin Valley Hike – What You Need to Know – A multi-day backpacking route in Jasper National Park passing Amethyst Lakes, open meadows, The Ramparts in prime wildlife habitat.
• Tombstone Lakes Hike & Camping Trip in Kananaskis – An easy backcountry hike to a couple of pretty alpine lakes, ideal for a quiet overnight trip deep in Kananaskis Country.
• Backpacking to Jewell Bay Campsite on Barrier Lake– A scenic and family-friendly backpacking trip featuring an easy lakeside trail, mountain views, and a peaceful backcountry camping experience in Kananaskis.
• Little Elbow Hike to Mount Romulus Campground – A quieter backcountry hike near Bragg Creek that follows the Little Elbow River to a scenic campground beneath Mount Romulus.

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It’s a great option if you’re looking for a moderate overnight backpacking trip that feels remote but is still manageable as a first or early-season Rockies adventure. Expect a mix of wide and narrow trails that are sometimes muddy, lake views, occasional mountain views, a surprising number of bird species, and plenty of signs of wildlife including bear and moose.

I found it much easier to get a reservation for Jacques Lake, just one week before our trip, than for many other backcountry campgrounds in Jasper National Park.

If you’re planning more time in the Jasper National Park, you can find a full collection of route ideas in my guide to the Best Hikes in Jasper National Park, which covers everything from easy town walks to Jasper’s iconic trails.

This post includes affiliate links. If you make a qualifying purchase through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my website.

Jacques Lake Backpacking Trail Overview

Hikers should take personal responsibility for their safety by researching conditions, preparing appropriately, and making informed decisions.

• Distance: 25 km return
• Elevation gain/loss: +240m/ -185m
• Time required: 6.5 – 9 hours return or 2 days/ 1 night
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Campgrounds: Jacques Lake backcountry
• Best season: Late June to mid to late September
• Dogs: Yes, on leash
• Wildlife: Take easy to access bear spray and be alert for moose
• Permit required: National Park pass

Jacques Lake Trail Map

How Difficult Is the Jacques Lake Backpacking Trail?

As a day hike to Jacques Lake it’s on the hard side of moderate – thanks to its 25-kilometre length. As a backpacking trip it’s a moderate one – since it’s 12.5 km one way. And even though there isn’t a lot of elevation change, you are carrying all your overnight gear which ups the effort factor. It makes a great first Rocky Mountain backpacking trip.

Getting to the Jacques Lake Trailhead (Beaver Creek Picnic Area)

From the Jasper Townsite

1. From the junction with Connaught Drive at the north end of the Jasper townsite drive northeast on Highway 16 for 1.8 km.
2. Turn right or east onto Maligne Lake Road. Set your odometer to 0.
3. Cross the Athabasca River Bridge.
4. Turn left after 200 m and drive towards Maligne Lake.
5. Continue for 25.7 km and turn north into the Beaver Creek Picnic Area at the southeast end of Medicine Lake.
6. Driving time is about 30 minutes.

If coming from Edmonton

• Drive west on Highway 16 for approximately 360 km to reach the turnoff to Maligne Lake Road.
• Turn left and follow the directions above.
• Allow approximately four hours.

Hiking to Jacques Lake: Trail Description and Highlights

Pass Beaver Lake and the Summit Lakes on a straightforward hike to Jacques Lake that will take you between 3.5 – 4.5 hours one way.

Beaver Lake: The First Stop on the Jacques Lake Trail

We found out at the beginning of our backpacking trip to Jacques Lake that there are two signed trails that head to Jacques Lake from the parking lot. The one on the right (or northeast) as you face the trailhead is the winter route. In summer it’s to be avoided because its very wet. Start hiking on the trail to the left or northwest corner of the parking lot.

Ascend gently on a wide trail – that can get very muddy after it rains. Reach the south end of Beaver Lake at 1.6 km – after about 20-25 minutes of hiking. This is a popular destination for birdwatchers.

Summit Lakes: Almost the Halfway Point

Continue up the road that skirts Beaver Lake. Near its north end look for good views of the grey-coloured Queen Elizabeth ranges through some open patches of vegetation.

We saw a lot of evidence of bear diggings and moose poop along the road before we reached the signed intersection for both the South Boundary Trail and the Jacques Lake Trail at 4.8 km. Stay alert through here, especially with all the dense vegetation. Make lots of noise!

Turn right at the intersection and continue on a single-track trail northwest to the second Summit Lake – reached at about the 6.0 km mark. Before continuing to the second lake, I think it’s worth making a quick detour to the first lake to admire the mountains to the west.

Second Summit Lake to Jacques Lake

The final section of the trail to Jacques Lake travels through dense forest with small streams to cross. It’s quite muddy in places and there are very few views to speak of.

At about 10 km look for a signed junction with a trail bearing left towards Merlin Pass. Reach the south end of Jacques Lake at 11.2 km. Continue to the north end of the lake to reach the spacious campground.

Camping at Jacques Lake Backcountry Campground

You can make reservations online or via phone at 1-877-737-3783 or 1-519-826-5391 (if outside North America) for the Jacques Lake backcountry campsite. Reservations opened on January 28, 2026 at 8 AM MT.

The Jacques Lake backcountry campsite is located along the shore of Jacques Lake in a dense forest. It features 8 tent pads, a fire pit, metal bear lockers, three picnic tables, and an open air pit toilet.

From the picnic table you can enjoy views of the lake and the Queen Elizabeth Range. We heard from fellow campers who had visited in the fall that they saw moose swimming near the campsite too.

Backpacking With a Dog

Jacques Lake is a good overnight trip for experienced trail dogs. The grade is gentle, there are numerous water sources, and the campground is spacious. Keep your dog on leash as required in Jasper National Park, be alert for wildlife, including bears and moose, and pack enough food, a collapsible bowl, and a sleeping pad or blanket so your dog stays comfortable overnight. For more tips, see my guide to Camping With a Dog: Tips for Camping, Backpacking & Canoe Trips.

What It’s Like to Spend a Night at Jacques Lake

Jacques Lake makes a fine destination for one night in the backcountry. You feel far from humanity here, surrounded by a forest that sees its share of wildlife, based on the scat we saw.

Enjoy sunset and sunrise views, the golden hour, mist rising off the lake and being disconnected – even for just a short time. A two day, one night trip is a great way to recharge.

Jacques Lake Backpacking Trip Itinerary

Day 1: Jacques Lake Trailhead to Jacques Lake Campground

• Distance: 12.5 km
• Hiking time: 4 hours
• Highlights: Wildflowers, Beaver and Summit Lakes, mountain views, the campground

Day 2: Jacques Lake to Trailhead

After a relaxed breakfast and a couple of cups of coffee, we made a beeline to the trailhead and were out in 3.5 hours with breaks. We literally didn’t see another person heading in – which surprised me, especially as the weather forecast was okay.

Jacques Lake vs Chaba Trail: Which Jasper Backpacking Trip Is Better?

You can also read my account of our backpacking trip on the Chaba Trail. It has one of the nicest waterfront campsites I’ve enjoyed in a national park.

Why Jacques Lake Belongs on Your Jasper Backpacking List

Jacques Lake isn’t about dramatic alpine scenery like you’ll find on the nearby Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park. It’s about solitude, wildlife, and an easy-to-manage overnight backpacking trip.

It is a great one for an early season backpacking trip – and for getting in shape for longer summer trips with more elevation gain. It was pleasant rather than spectacular but I still enjoyed exploring a new-to-me part of Jasper National Park.

What to Bring on the Hike to Jacques Lake

• A pair of collapsible hiking poles (useful for slippery, muddy sections)  
• Carry a can of bear spray and know how to use it. It should be easily accessible via a bear spray holster or a clip at the front of your pack.
• In summer a pocket guide to wildflowers is a great addition to any hike. 
• Don’t forget bug spray and a few energy bars.
• I highly recommend the 1 L Katadyn BeFree Microlight water filter. You can just fill and drink immediately.
• For a well-priced backpack that performs well I recommend the MEC Zephyr 65L Backpack.

Where to Stay in Jasper

The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is in a beautiful location but it sure comes with a hefty price tag. However, you can count on loads of amenities and lots of activities either on their grounds or close by.

Another excellent choice is Bear Hill Lodge. And for easy access to a beautiful lake and all the activities around Pyramid Lake, head for Pyramid Lake Resort.

On the strip in town check out The Crimson Jasper adjacent to Terra, a restaurant offering delicious food.

FAQs About the Jacques Lake Backpacking Trail

More Great Hikes and Backpacking Trips in Jasper National Park

• Tonquin Valley Hike – What You Need to Know – A multi-day backpacking route in Jasper National Park passing Amethyst Lakes, open meadows, The Ramparts in prime wildlife habitat.
• Geraldine Lakes Hike or Backpack, Jasper National Park Reaching the second of the four Geraldine Lakes can be a tough push, but the solitude of the trail and a standout waterfall are definite highlights.
• Sulphur Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park – A steep but rewarding 8 km hike that starts at Miette Hot Springs.
• Best Hikes in Jasper National Park – From easy walks to challenging alpine trails, this guide highlights the must-do hikes in Jasper National Park for incredible views, wildlife, and classic Rocky Mountain landscapes.
• 7 Stunning Hikes to do along the Icefields Parkway – Discover some of the most jaw-dropping hikes in the Canadian Rockies, with turquoise lakes, glaciers, waterfalls, and nonstop mountain scenery along one of the world’s most scenic highways.

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John and I hiked the full Pembrokeshire Coast Path over 14 days starting in early June. We only carried our daypack and had our luggage transferred to B&Bs. It wasn’t always easy as many days were long – up to 30 kilometres – and over the two weeks you climb and lose more elevation than Mount Everest. If you’ve ever hiked the Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal, you’ll find that this is similar experience, though there is more mileage and more elevation gain and loss.

In my guide, I share our 14-day itinerary, daily distances and elevation gain, highlights from each stage, useful planning advice, and helpful tips so you can decide if hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is a fit for you.

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Pembrokeshire Coast Path at a Glance

• Start point: Amroth, Pembrokeshire
• End point: St Dogmaels, Pembrokeshire
• Highest point: 175m/ 574 feet at Pen yr afr on Cemaes Head
• Total distance: 299 km/ 186 miles
• Total elevation gain: Approximately 9,780 m/ 32,085 feet
• Time needed: 14 days
• Difficulty: Moderate to challenging depending on length of hiking day
• Accommodation: Hotels, B&Bs, inns, guesthouses, a few hostels, campgrounds
• Luggage transfer available: Yes
• Best time to hike: April through September
• Highlights: Tenby, Barafundle Bay, Broad Haven South, Skomer Island, St. David’s, Whitesands Bay, sense of accomplishment, trail camaraderie
• Don’t forget: Pack the 10 hiking essentials and practice the seven Leave No Trace principles.

Why Hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

The 299-kilometre-long (186 miles) Pembrokeshire Coast Path is one of the best coastal trails in the world thanks to its world-class scenery that features rugged cliffs, more than 50 beautiful beaches, rocky coves, pastoral landscapes, and seaside Welsh towns and villages.

History lovers will relish seeing neolithic burial chambers, Norman castles, and Iron-Age promontory forts – while nature enthusiasts will enjoy looking for bottlenose dolphins and gray seals along with countless bird species including puffins – if you boat over to Skomer Island.

Who Will Love This Walk and Who Won’t

People that will love the Pembrokeshire Coast Path would be those that:

• Love coastal scenery and are comfortable hiking beside airy cliffs
• Birdwatchers
• History buffs
• Beach lovers
• Hikers who enjoy oceanside cafes and Welsh-style pubs
• Long-distance walkers
• Hikers who enjoy constant elevation change

People who might dislike the coastal path include:

• Hikers afraid of heights and airy paths
• Hikers on a tight budget (especially with the British pound so high against other currencies)
• Anyone who hates very windy weather
• Those looking for big mountain scenery and/or remote wilderness
• Hikers who don’t like a lot of elevation gain

Highlights of Our Pembrokeshire Coast Path Hike

• Some of the UK’s most picturesque beaches including Barafundle, Broad Haven, Whitesands, and Freshwater West
• Great bird life
• Dramatic coastal cliffs and formations especially on the northern section
• Medieval and very colourful Tenby
• Marloes Sands area
• Skomer Island – an important seabird site (boat reservations required)
• St. David’s – Britain’s smallest city with its spectacular 12thC Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace
• Trail camaraderie

What to Know Before Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Meals

All B&Bs and hotels we stayed in offered breakfast. We had lunch on the trail from supplies purchased in local stores. And we went out for dinner every night. It’s important to reserve a table in small places where there is only one place to stay and eat like St. Govan’s Inn. I’d recommend booking a table at restaurants on weekends, especially in the busier summer season.

Accommodation

In bigger centres like Tenby, St. David’s, and Solva, there is more choice when it comes to accommodation options. But book early wherever you go, especially in high season.

I’ve listed my favourite places we stayed at later in the blog.

Taxis and Buses

You may need a taxi at some point, so I do recommend that you carry a cell phone (with an e-sim card if you don’t live in the UK). Book a taxi days in advance if you know you’ll need one, especially if you have any distance to travel. Many of the towns have only one taxi and they just can’t handle much volume.

The Celtic Coaster is a great way to get around the St. David’s area. We used it getting to and from the trailhead at St. Justinians for £2.10 per person each way.

TrawsCymru is another long distance bus service. Some of the routes provide easy access to trailheads. Check out routes number T5 – Aberystwyth-Cardigan-Haverfordwest via Fishguard and T11 route – Haverfordwest-Fishguard via St. David’s.

There is also an on-demand bus service that allows you to book a ride that picks you up and drops you off directly along the coast or nearby hubs up to 30 days in advance. A lot of people we met were using it to hike sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It operates Monday to Saturday but bookings can be done any day of the week. Either download the Fflecsi App or call 0300 234 0300. Fares vary by distance – and they are much less expensive than using a taxi.

Navigation

There is a Wales Coast Path app – which we didn’t use but it might be useful to some of you. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is part of the longer Wales Coast Path.

We used Organic Maps – a free, offline hiking app. The route was on it – and we tracked our distance and elevation gain every day. Most hiking apps should have the route on it. You could also try All Trails, Komoot, or Outdooractive.

Luggage Transfer

Walkalongway did an excellent job. We never once had to wait for our luggage. Bags can weigh no more than 18 kg or you get charged extra. Your bag needs to be ready for pick-up by 8:30 AM and they are always delivered by 5 PM.

Best Guidebook

We carried the Cicerone book – Walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It comes with a map and very detailed day-to-day information that we rarely read. The path is very well-signed and marked, but some people might like the extra confidence of carrying a guidebook along with all the information provided.

When to Hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Spring from April to May is ideal for coastal wildflowers and quiet trails. It’s also reportedly a drier time to visit. If you are a birder, it’s prime time for a visit to Skomer Island to see nesting seabirds like puffins and razorbills.

Summer from June to August is the warmest time to hike and there’s lots of daylight. It’s perfect if you’re after an afternoon swim. It’s also the busiest time, so prices go up and accommodation must be booked well in advance.

September can be a good time to hike with quieter trails and warm seas for swimming. It’s also the best time to see Atlantic grey seals and their pups on beaches.

Be prepared for Atlantic storms by the time October rolls around. From November to March you’ll need to deal with shorter daylight hours, solitude, colder temperatures and high winds – which wouldn’t be a lot of fun on top of the airy cliff sections.

Our 14-Day Pembrokeshire Coast Path Itinerary

Day 1: Amroth to Manorbier via Tenby

• Distance: 24 km/ 14.9 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +930m/ -921 m
• Time needed: 7 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Hiking along an old railway and through abandoned railway tunnels
• Saundersfoot – with cafes, ice cream and a pretty beach
• Tenby Harbour view
• Impressive views over to Caldey Island from Giltar Point
• Thinking of today’s warfare and looking out to WWI practice trenches
• Dramatic cliffs especially at Lydstep Point

Day 2: Manorbier to Bosherston

• Distance: 17 km/ 10.6 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +421m/-392 m
• Time needed: 5.75 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Dramatic red sandstone cliffs and coves
• Barafundle Bay – sometimes voted as one of the world’s most beautiful beaches
• Stackpole Head
• Bosherton Lily Ponds – a national nature reserve known for its bird life, otters, and water lilies

Day 3: Bosherston to Angle (Ideally via Stack Rocks)

• Distance: 26 km/ 16.2 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +324 m/ – 346 m
• Time needed: 7.75 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Stack Rocks reportedly (we had to detour to Warren through fields because of military firing)
• St. Govan’s Chapel – a tiny 14th-century hermitage cave wedged into the cliffs (which we missed)
• Freshwater West Beach
• Airy cliff-top walking towards Angle
• Looking out to Thorne Island – a renovated Napoleonic Fort

Day 4: Angle to Pembroke

• Distance: 16 km/ 10 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +226/ -280 m
• Time needed: 5.5 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Good bird life including wading birds
• Walk beside Wales’ largest estuary, one of the deepest natural harbours in the world marveling at the infrastructure, tankers, and ships large tankers
• Pwllcrochan Pond & Marshland – a peaceful pond even though its within sight of the refinery

Day 5: Pembroke to Sandy Haven

• Distance: 25.7 km/ 16 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: 600m /1970 feet
• Time needed: 7 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Walking past swans at the pond at Pembroke Castle
• Colouful town of Neyland
• Finally leaving the industrial section of the path behind

Day 6: Sandy Haven to Marloes Sands

• Distance: 29 km/ 18 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +470m/-446 m
• Time needed: 8.5 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Hiking across the bay on stepping stones if you’re within 2.5 hours of low tide
• Dramatic cliff-top views and wildflowers
• Pretty seaside village of Dale
• Marloes Sands

Day 7: Marloes Sands Loop (Skomer Island)

• Distance: 12 km/7.5 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +187 m/-188 m
• Time needed: 4 hours with breaks

Skomer Island

We had set aside a day so we could visit Skomer Island. It’s a world-renowned National Nature Reserve – but only one boat company is able to land on it. I’d been told to book in advance – so I tried a month out and no luck. Booking in advance really means book on December 1st when it opens for the following spring and summer. There are also boat cruises of various durations but we opted instead to enjoy a hike at a leisurely pace – to make day 8 easier.

Highlights

• Islands and dramatic cliffs looking out to Skomer Island
• Gorgeous fields in a palette of yellows and greens
• Watching an enormous number of gulls fly by

Day 8: Marloes Sands to Broad Haven

• Distance: 15 km/ 9.3 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +251 m/-290 m
• Time needed: 4. 25 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Stunning hiking in fields and along the coast
• St Brides Haven Beach and Broad Haven Beach
• Little Haven – a cute village

Day 9: Broad Haven to Solva

• Distance: 18 km/ 11.2 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +638m/ -633m
• Time needed: 5.75 hours with breaks

Highlights

• A lunch time stop just as it started to rain in a cafe in Nolton Haven
• Beach walking
• Splendid view of Newgale Sands
• The pretty coastal village of Solva with its boat-filled harbour

Day 10: Solva to St. Justinians

• Distance: 17 km/ 10.6 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +316 m/-298 m
• Time needed: 5 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Exceptional cliff top walking and rocky coves
• Pretty harbour in St. Justinians

Day 11: St. Justinians to Trefin

• Distance: 23 km/ 14.3 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +510 m/-476 m
• Time needed: 7.25 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Looking across to Ramsey Island – settled since early Christian times
• Whitesands Beach and Bay
• Coeatan Arthur Dolman
• The hike towards Carn Llidi
• Excellent seabird viewing
• Hiking past sheer cliffs and through beautiful fields +fabulous rock formations
• Blue Lagoon

Day 12: Trefin to Goodwick – Our Hardest Day

Day 12 was the hardest of the entire Pembrokeshire Coast Path for us. At 30 km with almost 700 m of elevation gain, it was physically demanding and the number of hours of hiking was long. But, it also delivered some of the trail’s most spectacular scenery, including Strumble Head, dramatic headlands, and the beautiful beaches of Abermawr and Aberbach.

• Distance: 30 km/ 18.6 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +692 m/-709m
• Time needed: 9.25 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Picturesque Abercastle
• Abermawr and Aberbach Beaches
• Strumble Head Lighthouse – and the striking views on the hike to the lighthouse
• Scenic repeating headlands north of Goodwick

Day 13: Goodwick to Newport

• Distance: 23 km/ 14.3 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +492 m/-477m
• Time needed: 7.5 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Gorgeous and colourful Fishguard Harbour
• Some of the most dramatic cliffs on the trail
• Massive low tide near Newport – unlike anything I’ve seen before

Day 14: Newport to St Dogmaels

• Distance: 26 km/ 16.2 miles
• Elevation gain/loss: +685m/ -695m
• Time needed: 8.25 hours with breaks

Highlights

• Very airy cliff top walking
• Amazing geology and folded rocks
• Dolphin sightings
• Finishing the trail (though the last 5 km on road was underwhelming)

Our Favourite Sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

My favourite sections of the path are the following:

• The hike around Stackpole Head
• Colourful hiking with amazing cliff top views on the approach to Marloes Sands
• The last day with the crazy folding in the rocks
• Walking the length of Freshwater West Beach
• Admiring the crazy tidal variation heading into Newport
• The hike towards Stumblehead Lighthouse

The Most Beautiful Beaches on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

There are officially 58 beaches on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path – so it’s hard to choose a favourite. A couple that stood out for me were Barafundle Beach, Whitesands Beach, and Freshwater West Beach.

Facilities Along the Coastal Path

You’ll find shops, banks, pharmacies, and post offices in the following towns: Saundersfoot, Tenby, Pembroke, Pembroke Dock, Milford Haven, St. David’s, Fishguard. and Cardigan. Smaller villages along the hike might have a pub or two, local food shops, and occasionally an ATM.

Was the Pembrokeshire Coast Path Difficult?

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is technically easy with no scrambling required – but it can be physically challenging. Some days are long (18 mi/30 km was our longest) because there just aren’t that many options for B&B or hotel stays. We wanted to be finished in 14 days – because just getting to and from Canada took four days of our time. If your schedule is more flexible and you allow 17 -18 days, you can decrease the mileage and make it easier on yourself.

There is also considerable elevation gain on many days with loads of up and down over the length of a hiking day.

Mentally, I found some of the very exposed cliff sections difficult – especially in strong winds.

What Direction Should You Hike?

We hiked from south to north which has many advantages. You build up physically for the harder days ahead – and the scenery gets more dramatic the further north you go, except for the industrial area around Pembroke. The sun is at your back save for a few days at the end when you round the headland, but the wind is in your face.

I noticed that hikers heading from north to south on the few sunny, warm days we had were very uncomfortable with the sun beating down on them. Many people had t-shirts pulled over their heads to give them some relief. But on windy days, they would fare better.

Costs of Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

We chose to book with a company who organized our baggage transfers, taxi pickups, and all our accommodation. We had to cover lunches and dinners, a couple of buses, and of course getting to and from the starting points.

It’s one of the harder multi-day hikes to organize on your own as towns are so spread out and services are not always readily available.

Budget for the following:

• Meals – Notably lunch and dinner as breakfast is included unless you are camping. I found food to be pricey with basic fish and chips running around £17 – £22. Stock up on picnic supplies where you can. I found bringing some snack food with us like salted cashews and protein bars saved a lot of money.
• Hotels – Prices from what I’ve seen online were generally reasonable. My favourite place on the trail, Cnapan Guest House, (save for my birthday splurge) costs £264 for two nights. There are several places where there are two night minimums – and hence the use of taxis might be required. One of the pleasant but more basic places we stayed at – The Lobster Pot in Marloes runs around £116 per night.
• Camping – No wild camping is permitted in Wales, but you could save a lot of money by carrying all your gear and camping at official campsites or youth hostels along the route. Budget £15 – £54 per night at a youth hostel. Campsites run from £12 – £35 per night based on amenities and how close they are to a beach,
• Transportation – If you can’t walk to and leave from your accommodation, you will need to budget for a bus or taxi. Buses are affordable with pricing based on distance. Allow £2 – £4 per person per trip.

Accommodation We Loved Along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

We had all accommodation arranged for us by Celtic Trails. Some of the accommodation was really good and some was just fine. We enjoyed our stay at the ones listed below but appreciate that sometimes we stayed two nights and took a taxi or bus to the next trailhead or we got picked up by a taxi.

There aren’t a lot of choices most nights.

Bosherton

St. Govans Inn – The rooms are tiny and the beds aren’t that comfortable, but the towels are thick and the vibe in the dining room is really good. And it’s just a short walk up from the lily ponds.

Pembroke

Woodbine Bed & Breakfast – With a great location on the main street just a short walk from the castle and a go-getter host, you’ll enjoy friendly Welsh hospitality, a large bedroom, and a delicious breakfast.

Milford Haven

Ty Milford Waterfront is a newer hotel so the rooms feel fresh but bland. Still, their location is excellent and nearby we had a very good dinner at Martha’s Vineyard.

Broad Haven

Rwts-Rooms and Resto – While the rooms are very small, they are tastefully done and their restaurant is really good. They also have a great location across from a big beach.

St. David’s

Twr y Felin – We stayed here over my birthday as a treat. It was wonderful with a big room, friendly service and lots of amenities. It was also just a 2-minute walk to catch the bus to St. Justinians.

Newport

Cnapan Guest House – wonderful hosts, spacious rooms, and an excellent breakfast. After eating one of the best meals in Wales at Llys Meddyg I’d also recommend them.

Tips for Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Trail Signage and Waymarkers

We used Organic Maps on occasion – usually when we were trying to get out of a small town or city. Otherwise, we just followed the well-marked and signed path. Acorns are the symbol used for the Pembrokeshire Coast Path whereas dragon shells are used for the Wales Coast Path. If you see either of them, you’re on the right trail.

The trail follows the coast, so that’s your other clue. Even through the industrial area around Pembroke, we found great signage through what I thought would have been a confusing area.

Check Operating Hours of the Military Firing Range

On the day you hike between Bosherton and Angle, you will need to know if the Castlemartin Firing Range is accessible. Access is permitted across the range from lower Warren Road via Stacks Rock to Trevallen.

You can call the range office for a pre-recorded message about the next day’s firing program at 01646 662 367. We found out from our server at the St. Govan Inn that it was closed from Monday to Friday when we hiked – so we missed out on seeing Stack Rocks – reportedly one of the highlights along the trail. Instead, we had to hike inland to Warren through farmer’s fields – pretty enough but not the same as hiking along the coast.

High Tide Obstacles

There are two high tide obstacles – both of which you encounter on the hike from Sandy Haven to Marloes Sands.

The first near Sandy Haven requires that you hike from Sandy Haven across stepping stones, 2.5 hours either side of low tide. If your timing is bad, you can take a taxi and have them drop you off on the other side of the inlet. Here is a link to the Sandy Haven tide chart.

The second high tide obstacle is near Dale. You need to tide to be within 3.5 hours of low tide to safely cross Gann Flats. Apparently you need to ford a stream via a short causeway. Our timing was such that we did the high tide variant – heading on a signed path through farmers fields and ultimately on the road into Dale. It added 3 miles to our day. Check out this tide chart for the Dale area.

Pack Rain Pants

Fortunately, we only had rain for a total of about two hours over two weeks – though we did have sprinkles on occasion. If it has rained, the undergrowth will be soaking – and so will you within minutes of hiking. On those days, I’d recommend rain pants and perhaps even half gaiters to try and keep your socks dry.

Beware of Stinging Nettles

Copious quantities of stinging nettles were along the edges of the southern end of the trail in particular. For one week, we dodged them – though we also got stung plenty too. We wore shorts – so if you 100% want to avoid them, wear long pants.

Pembrokeshire Coast Path vs. Portugal’s Fisherman’s Trail

In the last 18 months I have hiked 12 days on the Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal and 14 days on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in Wales I enjoyed both of them – but if I could only pick one, I’d go for the Fisherman’s Trail.

I like the fact that the Fisherman’s Trail was a seamless experience insofar that you never needed taxis or buses and could literally walk from one town to another. I found the accommodation to be good and our money went further.

If you love history, birds, beautiful harbours and picturesque villages along with some stunning white sand beaches, then the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is an excellent choice. Overall, days were longer and there was more elevation gain.

Is the Pembrokeshire Coast Path Worth Hiking?

In my opinion, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is well worth hiking. It’s a true coastal path with long stretches every day right beside the ocean. There is very little road walking – and it isn’t nearly as busy as many other long distance trails in Europe. If you’re looking for a challenge – as it is a hard hike with long hiking days and lots of up and down, then you’ll probably enjoy the experience.

I loved all the beaches and the colourful towns and villages – though we didn’t have much extra time to explore by doing the hike in 14 days. We also had very good weather – considering we were in Wales. The wind howled the first week and softened the second – but we never had much rain – which might colour your experience.

More Multi-Day Hikes in Europe

• Hiking the Stunning Via Alpina in Switzerland – A spectacular multi-day route linking alpine villages, high passes, and jaw-dropping mountain scenery across the heart of the Swiss Alps.
• Sweden’s Kungsleden Trail Guide: Abisko to Nikkaluokta – A classic Arctic trek above the Arctic Circle featuring wide valleys, alpine tundra, glacial rivers, and welcoming mountain huts along one of Sweden’s most iconic long-distance trails.
• Alta Via 2: My 8-Day Trek Through the Dolomites & What to Expect – A detailed look at hiking Alta Via 2 in Italy’s Dolomites, covering daily stages, hut stays, difficulty, and what to expect on this challenging multi-day trek.
• The Best Part of Hiking the GR221 in Mallorca – Rugged trails, ancient villages, and jaw-dropping Mediterranean views along Mallorca’s legendary GR221.
• Hiking La Gomera – A One Week Itinerary  – A scenic week-long hiking adventure on La Gomera, linking laurel forests, coastal villages, and quiet mountain trails in one of the Canary Islands’ most unspoiled landscapes.

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The post Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path: Our 14-Day Walk from Amroth to St Dogmaels appeared first on Hike Bike Travel.

I realized there was real demand for solo-friendly hikes when a woman recognized me on Prairie Mountain in Kananaskis and told me she’d chosen the hike specifically because she knew it would be busy enough to feel comfortable hiking alone.

There are legitimate concerns related to solo hiking in the Canadian Rockies – bears, navigation, isolation, changing weather and the possibility of injury. I think about all these things when I hike alone and do my best to mitigate the risks. I make noise in bear country, keep bear spray accessible, choose trails with straightforward route-finding, and carry a Garmin inReach Mini 2 in case of an emergency.

The hikes I’ve showcased in this guide see regular foot traffic especially between 10 AM and 4 PM in summer and fall. These are not remote wilderness hikes where you never see a soul. Instead, they are confidence-building hikes that offer gorgeous mountain scenery, on easy-to-follow trails. If you’re a solo hiker looking to exploring the Canadian Rockies, these trails will empower you.

This post includes some affiliate links. If you make a qualifying purchase through one of these links, I will receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. I very much appreciate your support.

What Makes a Good Solo Hike in the Rockies?

• A popular trail
• Easy-to-follow with minimal route-finding on well-established paths
• Easy to moderate challenge
• Frequent hikers so you’re rarely alone
• No major creek crossings
• Safer shoulder-season options when there might be snow around
• Easy to bail-out if weather changes
• Obvious trailhead
• Fewer objective hazards
• Good summer trail conditions

Solo Hiking Tips for the Canadian Rockies

• Pack the 10 hiking essentials.
• Start early but not too early if you want people around.
• Carry easy to access bear spray and know how to use it.
• Ditch the bear bells. Your voice is better.
• Avoid wearing earbuds or headphones.
• Download offline maps.
• Tell someone your plans – what trail you’re hiking and when you’re due back.
• Know when to turn around.
• Choose busy trails for your first solo hikes.
• Bring hiking poles for steeper trails.
• Get a weather forecast beforehand. Weather changes quickly in the mountains.
• Don’t rely on cell service. Carry an emergency locator device like a Garmin inReach Mini 2 or a Zoleo Satellite Communicator.

When NOT to Hike Solo in the Canadian Rockies

There are times when solo hiking is really not a great idea. You will need to use your best judgement.

• Early season snow
• Exposed ridges – particularly in poor weather
• Remote trails with little traffic
• Shoulder season conditions
• Reports of recent bear sightings
• Poor weather forecasts

Great First Solo Hikes

• Troll Falls
• Johnston Canyon
• Bear’s Hump

Good for Building Confidence

• Chester Lake
• Sulphur Skyline
• Ptarmigan Cirque

Longer Solo Adventures with Regular Traffic

• Iceline Trail
• Plain of Six Glaciers
• Sulphur Skyline
• Prairie Mountain
• Crypt Lake

Location Map

Most of these hikes are accessible as day trips from Calgary, Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper, or the Waterton townsite.

Best Solo Hikes in Kananaskis

Prairie Mountain

• Distance: ~6.6 km return
• Elevation gain: 726 m
• Time needed: 2.5 – 4 hours
• Difficulty: Hard
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The hike up Prairie Mountain is a steep one, starting in forest and ending at the top of a broad rocky ridge offering both prairie and mountain views. The route is straightforward, but the climb is steep and sustained until you break out of the trees near the top. Then the wind can hit you! You’re rarely alone, especially on weekends. Conditions vary depending on the season. Take microspikes in spring, late fall and winter. Avoid hiking it when muddy in spring. It’s one of the premiere solo hikes near Calgary with easy accessibility off Highway 66.

Read the full Prairie Mountain hiking guide here.

Ha Ling Peak

• Distance: 7.8 km return
• Elevation gain: 810 m
• Time needed: 3 – 5 hours
• Difficulty: Hard
• Solo comfort level: Moderate
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The hike to Ha Ling Peak follows a steep, obvious trail that climbs quickly through forest before opening to a rocky alpine ridge with panoramic views over Canmore. The final section involves a steep set of stairs, and a final scree climb to the summit. Good footwear (microspikes in spring) and a favourable weather window are important. Even though it’s a very popular hike from early spring, through the summer and fall, it feels like a serious mountain climb for all.

Read the full Ha Ling Peak hiking guide here.

Chester Lake

• Distance: 9.0 km return
• Elevation Gain: 315 m
• Time Needed: 3 – 4 hours
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

The Chester Lake hike follows a gentle to moderate trail through the forest to reach open meadows. From the meadows the grade moderates all the way to the lake. The trail is easy to follow and usually busy from July through October, especially during larch season. You can count on seeing other hikers throughout the day.

Read the full Chester Lake hiking guide here.

Troll Falls + Marmot Falls

• Distance: 3.4 km return (Troll Falls), 4.3 km return (Marmot Falls)
• Elevation gain: 30 m (Troll Falls), 130 m (Marmot Falls)
• Time needed: 1.5 -2 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The popular Troll Falls – Marmot Falls combination is a straightforward, easy hike through the trees to a couple of waterfalls. If you’ve got time, include a visit to pretty Marmot Falls and even Upper Troll Falls. Expect a crowded parking lot on weekends. In winter the hike to Marmot Falls is often closed because of icy conditions. Overall, this is a great option for solo hikers. I’ve always seen people on it, save for once when I did it as an evening hike.

Read the full Troll Falls hiking guide.

Ptarmigan Cirque

• Distance: 4.5 km return
• Elevation gain: 214 m
• Time needed: 1.5 – 2.5 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: Moderate to high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

The Ptarmigan Cirque hike starts off with a steady climb but in no time the grade moderates and the trail continues to a wildflower-filled cirque with small waterfalls. The route is obvious and well-traveled, especially on summer weekends, when parking at Highwood Pass may be an issue. I’d recommend making noise on any quieter sections – and keep bear spray handy. Overall, it’s a strong choice for solo hikers especially on weekends with good weather.

Read the full Ptarmigan Cirque hiking guide.

Rawson Lake

• Distance: 7.8 km return
• Elevation gain: 300 m
• Time needed: 2.5 – 3.5 hours
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate
• Solo comfort level: Moderate
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Moderate to very busy

Solo Consideration

The easy to moderate Rawson Lake hike can be done year-round. The trail follows the shore of Upper Kananaskis Lake before it starts climbing steadily through the forest to reach the lake. The hike is well-signed and route finding isn’t an issue. Expect steady foot traffic on weekends in summer, fall and winter. Weekdays are likely quieter. Conditions vary depending on the season. In winter I usually take microspikes or snowshoes, and in summer I’m prepared for mud. It’s an excellent choice for solo hikers, especially on weekends.

Read my full Rawson Lake hiking guide.

Wasootch Ridge

• Distance: 11 km return to the cairn
• Elevation gain: ~762 m
• Time needed: 4 – 6 hours
• Difficulty: Hard
• Solo comfort level: Moderate
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High on weekends

Solo Consideration

The Wasootch Ridge trail is a steep but fun lumpy ridge walk with ongoing elevation gain and loss, over its length. The easy-to-follow trail offers a steady climb with one short airy section above a small cliff that demands your attention. The trail is most popular from May (because it loses its snow early) to October, but it’s also a favourite of experienced hikers in the winter months. Carry hiking poles and microspikes if you plan to go when the trail is snow-covered. It’s a great choice for strong solo hikers looking for great scenery with a workout, especially on weekends when there are lots of hikers about.

Read my full Wasootch Ridge Trail guide here.

Best Solo Hikes in Banff National Park

Johnston Canyon

• Distance: 5.4 km return (Upper Falls)
• Elevation gain: 135 m
• Time needed: hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: Very high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The easy, almost-always-busy Johnston Canyon trail follows Johnston Canyon up to two waterfalls via a fun hike that includes a cantilevered catwalk. The hike is straightforward with some gradual climbing. Expect crowds especially on weekends, so go early if you want a more peaceful experience. The canyon is open year-round, but in winter the trail is icy and microspikes are recommended. It’s a fantastic hike for solo travelers, especially with amazing canyon scenery along most of its length.

Read my guide to the Johnston Canyon here.

Tunnel Mountain

• Distance: 4.8 km return
• Elevation gain: 260 m
• Time needed: 2 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: Very high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The Tunnel Mountain hike is a gentle trail that weaves up through a forest with numerous scenic views out to the Banff townsite and Bow Valley. The trail to the Tunnel Mountain summit is well-signed and very easy to follow. Expect to encounter a steady stream of hikers, no matter what time of year you do it. In winter wear microspikes and consider taking hiking poles. It’s an excellent choice for solo hikers as its accessible on foot from the Banff townsite, the scenery is great, and you’ll run into people during daylight hours no matter what season you hike.

Read my guide to the Tunnel Mountain hike in Banff National Park.

Lake Agnes Tea House (+ Little Beehive, Big Beehive options)

• Distance: 7.0 km return
• Elevation gain: 396 m
• Time needed: 2.5 – 3 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: Very high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The hike to the Lake Agnes Tea House is one of the most popular hikes in Banff National Park, and an excellent choice for solo hikers. The easy-to-follow trail climbs steadily from Lake Louise via forested switchbacks to arrive at Mirror Lake. From there it’s only 0.8 km to reach Lake Agnes and the Tea House. At Lake Agnes you can continue to either Little Beehive or Big Beehive for panoramic views over Lake Louise and the surrounding mountains. Count on heavy foot traffic in summer and fall, especially by mid-morning. For many this will be a confidence-building solo hike with excellent scenery, easy navigation, and plenty of fellow hikers around. The crux of the hike is getting to the trailhead at Lake Louise.

Read my guide to the Lake Agnes Tea House hike or the Lake Agnes and Big Beehive hike.

Plain of Six Glaciers

• Distance: 13.8 km return
• Elevation gain: 380 m
• Time needed: 3 – 4.5 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The Plain of Six Glaciers hike starts by Lake Louise and travels beside the lake and up into glacial moraines with ever more breathtaking views – especially of glaciers. From the end of Lake Louise, it’s a steady climb to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse where you can eat lunch with a view. Expect company on the hike – though there will be short stretches when you may have the trail to yourself. It’s best hiked in the summer and early fall.

Read my guide to the Plain of Six Glaciers hike.

Sulphur Mountain

• Distance: 11 km return
• Elevation gain: 655 m
• Time needed: 2.5 – 4 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Solo comfort level: Moderate to high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

The Sulphur Mountain hike in Banff National Park is a moderate trail that zigzags underneath the Banff Gondola through forest to finish at the gondola station. At the top there’s an option to hike to Sanson Peak via a scenic 600-metre-long boardwalk with spectacular Banff views. The trail is popular – especially in summer – and once at the top you can expect to see throngs of people. In winter, expect fewer hikers. Bring microspikes for the snow. The hike is rewarding without feeling remote. Banff public transit can drop you near the trailhead.

Read my guide to the Sulphur Mountain hike.

Larch Valley – Sentinel Pass

• Distance: 11.6 km return
• Elevation gain: 726 m
• Time needed: 4 – 5 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

The hike to Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass is one of the busiest in the Canadian Rockies during larch season. The trail starts at Moraine Lake and climbs steadily via switchbacks through the forest before opening into gorgeous alpine meadows filled with golden larch trees in fall. The trail continues past Minnestimma Lakes, ultimately ending at Sentinel Pass. Count on very heavy foot traffic from mid-September through early October, with quieter but steady traffic in summer – so it’s a great choice for solo hikers. Parking and shuttle logistics can be more challenging than the hike itself, so planning on how to get to Moraine Lake is the crux of this hike.

Read my complete guide to the Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass hike.

Best Solo Hikes in Jasper National Park

Valley of the Five Lakes

• Distance: ~4.3 km return
• Elevation gain: 80 m
• Time needed: 1.5-2 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

The easy Valley of the Five Lakes hike is a family-friendly trail known for its turquoise lakes, forest loops, and fast access from the Jasper townsite. It’s set to reopen in summer 2026 – but I don’t know how it will look after the 2024 Jasper Fire. The loop hike should be straightforward – with well-placed red chairs at scenic spots beside the lakes. It’s always been a favourite year-round Jasper hike, and I expect it will be again. There may be some quieter sections along the trail, but in the past, there has always been steady foot traffic. In winter you may need microspikes or snowshoes.

Read my guide to the Valley of the Five Lakes hike.

Old Fort Point

• Distance: 3.8 km return
• Elevation gain: 130 m
• Time needed: 1.5 – 2 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

The Old Fort Point trail is a short out and back hike to a prominent hill of bedrock sitting above the Athabasca River. The route is straightforward and chances are high you’ll run into people along the way. In winter, wear microspikes as it’s often icy and snowy. The trail, with its proximity to Jasper, is ideal for solo hikers looking for a quick hiking fix with great views of the Jasper townsite.

Bald Hills

• Distance: 14 km return
• Elevation gain: 610 m
• Time needed: 4-6 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Solo comfort level: Moderate to high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

The Bald Hills Trail is a moderate hike in Jasper National Park that takes you through forest and above treeline to a series of bald hills with sweeping views of Maligne Lake, the Opal Hills, and the Evelyn Creek Valley. It’s a popular hike so expect company – knowing that there will be stretches where you don’t see a soul. Give it a pass if there are thunderstorms forecast. It’s a great hike for solo hikers looking to build their confidence and at the same time experience one of the best hikes in Jasper National Park.

Read my guide to the Bald Hills hike.

Sulphur Skyline

• Distance: 8.0 km return
• Elevation gain: 700 m
• Time needed: 3-4 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

The popular Sulphur Skyline Trail is a steep hike that starts beside Miette Hot Springs. The trail climbs on an obvious path through forest to a panoramic summit overlooking the Fiddle River Valley and surrounding ranges. Expect a steady stream of people, especially on summer weekends. Hike it from late spring to early fall – keeping an eye on the weather for summer storms. It’s an excellent and rewarding choice for solo hikers looking for a workout with fabulous mountain scenery.

Read my guide to the Sulphur Skyline Trail.

Best Solo Hikes in Yoho and Kootenay National Parks

Iceline Trail

• Distance: 13.6 km return (up to 21.1 km with loop options)
• Elevation gain: 690 m
• Time needed: 4 -6 hours (out and back version)
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High to very high

Solo Consideration

The moderate Iceline Trail is one of the most scenic day hikes in Yoho National Park. Climb steeply from the parking lot to reach a world of glaciers, turquoise alpine lakes, and awe-inspiring views of Takakkaw Falls. The busy out and back hike is straightforward, but there are longer loop options that don’t see the same amount of foot traffic. It’s ideal as a summer or early fall hike. Solo travelers will love the accessibility (go early for parking), scenery, and trail camaraderie.

Read my guide to the Iceline Trail hike.

Emerald Lake Loop

• Distance: 5.2 km return
• Elevation gain: 50 m
• Time needed: 1 – 1.5 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The easy Emerald Lake loop hike is another picturesque hike in Yoho National Park. The mostly flat well-maintained trail circles turquoise Emerald Lake, while offering up non-stop mountain views. While the route is straightforward and typically packed with people, the far side of Emerald Lake near the lodge is often quieter. Solo hikers should make noise through the high vegetation or join up with other hikers in this short section. The hike is especially pretty in fall. Come winter, beware of one large avalanche path that crosses the trail not far from the parking lot.

Read my guide to the Emerald Lake hike.

Stanley Glacier

• Distance: 8.8 km return + 4.4 km to the toe of the Stanley Glacier
• Elevation gain: 385 m – 820 m depending on how far you hike
• Time needed: 3 -4 hours for the regular route + ~2-3 hours if you go to the toe of the glacier
• Difficulty: Easy to the common turn around point; hard to the glacier
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The Stanley Glacier trail winds through an old burn past the Guard Wall to finish at the end of a maintained trail overlooking a large rocky area containing Burgess shale fossils. While most hikers stop here, adventurous hikers can continue on a loop trail to the toe of the Stanley Glacier. The popular trail is easy to follow and well-traveled, especially on weekends. Solo hikers who are comfortable with quiet stretches will love the hike for the mountain scenery.

Read my guide to the Stanley Glacier hike.

Marble Canyon

• Distance: 1.6 km return
• Elevation gain: 30 m
• Time needed: 30 – 60 minutes
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: Very high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

Marble Canyon is a short and rewarding year-round hike that follows Tokumm Creek through a narrow limestone canyon via a series of bridges, each offering impressive views of the rushing turquoise water below. The final bridge provides the best view into the dramatic depths of Marble Canyon. This popular trail makes an excellent quick stop when driving between Radium Hot Springs and the Columbia Valley, and you’re rarely alone on the route. Exercise caution around bridges and railings when snow levels are high in winter.

Read my guide to the Marble Canyon hike.

Best Solo Hikes in Waterton Lakes National Park

Bear’s Hump

• Distance: 2.4 km return
• Elevation gain: 238 m
• Time needed: 60 – 75 minutes
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

Bear’s Hump is a short, fun hike that climbs steadily through forest and open slopes to a panoramic viewpoint overlooking Upper Waterton Lake and the Waterton townsite. The trail is easy to follow, via a series of switchbacks that make the ascent feel more manageable than the elevation gain suggests. Look for hikers throughout the day from spring through fall, especially on weekends and summer afternoons. Strong winds are common at the summit, so bring an extra layer even on warm days. And don’t go too close to the edge. Overall, it’s an excellent choice for solo hikers looking for a quick hike with a big scenic payoff.

Read my guide to the best hikes in Waterton.

Lower Bertha Falls

• Distance: 5.2 km return
• Elevation gain: 175 m
• Time needed: 2 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: Medium to high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: High

Solo Consideration

The hike to Lower Bertha Falls follows a well-traveled trail that starts near Cameron Falls at the Waterton townsite. It climbs gradually through burned forest to the scenic waterfall. The route is straightforward, and an excellent choice for hiking independently. Expect to see hikers throughout the day from late spring through fall, especially in summer. Stronger hikers can continue about 2.6 km past the falls to Bertha Lake for a 10.4 km round trip hike.

Crypt Lake (because it’s popular despite exposure)

• Distance: 17.4 km return
• Elevation gain: 690 m
• Time needed: 5 – 7 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate with exposed sections – a ladder, tunnel and cable climb
• Solo comfort level: High
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

The moderate trail to Crypt Lake is an excellent choice for fit solo hikers who are looking for a mix of adventure and scenery – thanks to a short section that involves a ladder, tunnel, and chains. The hike starts and ends with a boat ride, so you can count on good foot traffic when the boat unloads. Even though hikers disperse, chances of seeing people for long stretches are very high. The boat runs from May 30 – October 12th, but the best time to go is in summer for the volume of hikers.

Read my guide to the Crypt Lake hike.

Red Rock Canyon Trail

• Distance: 0.6 km return
• Elevation gain: Minimal
• Time needed: 20 -30 minutes
• Difficulty: Easy
• Solo comfort level: Very high
• Likelihood of seeing other hikers: Very high

Solo Consideration

Red Rock Canyon is more like a scenic nature walk than a true hike, but it’s one of the most beautiful and accessible stops in Waterton. A short paved/ gravel loop takes you past red canyon walls and crystal-clear water, with lots of places to explore along the creek. There is heavy foot traffic all summer long so it’s an easy option for first-time solo hikers or anyone looking for a quick but rewarding outing between longer hikes. On hot days, I highly recommend soaking tired feet in the icy waters.

More Great Hikes & Backpacking Trips in the Canadian Rockies

• 10 Beginner Backpacking Trips in the Canadian Rockies – A helpful guide for new backpackers, showcasing accessible trails with stunning scenery and manageable terrain in the Rockies.
• 10 + Best Backpacking Trips in Banff National Park – A curated list of Banff’s top backpacking adventures, taking you through forests, meadows and past alpine lakes with the Rockies as a backdrop.
• Easy Kananaskis Hikes Everyone Will Love – A roundup of low-effort, high-reward hikes in Kananaskis Country that are perfect for families, beginners, and anyone looking for beautiful scenery without a big climb.
• Best Hikes in Jasper National Park – From easy walks to challenging alpine trails, this guide highlights the must-do hikes in Jasper National Park for incredible views, wildlife, and classic Rocky Mountain landscapes
• 10 Best Yoho National Park Hikes – A curated list of the best hikes in Yoho National Park – all personally tested – from easy lakeside walks to full day alpine adventures like the fabulous Iceline Trail.

Click on the photo to bookmark to your Pinterest boards.

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It, I believe, is one of the very best long distance hikes in Canada. And although 60 km may not sound like much – trust me, on the slippery, lichen-covered rocks of the Coastal Trail it is!

The trail is often beside or in sight of Lake Superior – a lake that behaves like a teenager on hormones. One minute it’s glassy calm and the next it’s thrown a temper tantrum and kicked up waves that swallow ships. It’s a lake you can’t help but respect – especially as it’s the largest lake in the world by surface area. It’s also bloody cold – averaging 4.4°C (40°F) at the surface.

If you’ve got the time the night before the Coastal hike, I think it’s worth doing the Southern Headland Trail in the park.

Originally hiked in 2014, fully updated in 2026 with new photos, logistics, and first-hand trail insights.

This post includes some affiliate links. If you make a purchase via one of these links, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you very much for your support.

Coastal Trail in Pukaskwa Overview

• Location: Pukaskwa National Park, NW Ontario
• Distance: 60 km
• Elevation gain: 728 m
• Difficulty: Challenging
• Time needed: 4 – 6 days from North Swallow River to Hattie Cove
• Dogs: Permitted on leash
• Park opening dates: May 15 – October 14, 2026
• Why its special: Remote, quiet, Lake Superior shoreline and campsites, suspension bridges

Getting to Pukaskwa National Park

Pukaskwa National Park is located near Marathon, Ontario. It’s a 3.5-hour drive from Thunder Bay and a 5-hour drive from Sault Ste. Marie. From Toronto, it’s almost a 12-hour drive.

You will need to spend the night nearby as the boat shuttle leaves in the morning.

Some options include:

• Pic River Guest Suite in Pic River
• Travelodge by Wyndham Marathon – about a 30-minute drive away
• Stay at the Hattie Cove frontcountry campground in Pukaskwa National Park. It’s first come, first served.

Coastal Trail Map and Route

South Access to the Coastal Trail (Boat Shuttle)

In 2026, plan to use North Shore Adventures. Contact Doug by phone at (807) 228-0709 or by email – contact@northshoreadventures.ca. He will boat you down to the southern trailhead by the North Swallow River campsite – and you can hike back to the northern trailhead and your car from there. Be on time. The boat doesn’t wait around for stragglers.

Costs in 2026 are $265 per person with a 3-person minimum. There is a possibility of a fuel surcharge too.

North Access

Your other option is to start in Hattie Cove and hike south. You can arrange a pickup at the southern trailhead ahead of time – but if you ever have a problem, it may be harder to meet the boat. There is also the option to do and out and back hike – but that’s going to take you the better part of 10 days.

I think getting a boat shuttle to the southern trailhead on the Pukaskwa Coastal Trail is the best and most time efficient way to hike it.

Planning Your Coastal Trail Hike

• Purchase a copy of a paper map of Pukaskwa National Park.
• In September – the best month for hiking if you hate bugs – the sunrise is at 7:30 AM on September 21st and sets at 7:45 PM. There is an average of four inches of rain and morning temperatures are around 6°C. It was 1°C one morning on our trip.
• In May and June expect blackflies, mosquitoes from mid-June into July and horse and deer flies from July to August.

Permits and Registration

Backcountry campsite reservations open on Monday, February 2, 2026 at 8 AM ET. Reserve online or by calling 1-877-737-3783 from North America and 1-519-826-5391 outside North America.

You are required to book individual campsites along the trail, so spend some time figuring out a itinerary and which campsites you’d ideally like to stay at.

A Realistic 5-day Backpacking Itinerary

Their is more mileage on the last day, but your pack is lighter and the trail is much easier overall. And Willow River was a lovely place to spend a night.

• North Swallow River → White Spruce Harbour (10.8 km)
• White Spruce Harbour → Fisherman’s Cove (10.2 km)
• Fisherman’s Cove → Fish Harbour (12.3 km)
• Fish Harbour → Willow River (9.0 km)
• Willow River → Hattie Cove (17.7 km)

Mandatory Orientation

Park staff will contact you via email or phone and set up either an in-person or online backcountry safety orientation. You must do the safety orientation before starting the hike. They will also need additional emergency information to help speed up the on-site registration process. This information will include names of everyone in the group, emergency contact information, equipment description (eg colour and make of tent), and vehicle description.

Best Time to Go

The best time to go is late August into September unless you’re a fan of bugs and head nets. Earlier in the summer you can count on flies, mosquitoes and blackflies. A head net and bug jacket are imperative.

How Many Days Do You Need?

Most people take between four to six days. The more time you have the more relaxed the hike, but the more food you must carry.

Campsites on the Pukaskwa Coastal Trail

There are 11 backcountry campsites along the Coastal Trail. All feature privies and food lockers – Some campgrounds have multiple campsites spread out over a large area. Almost all have views and easy water access.

From the south heading north, the campsites are as follows:

Our 5-Day Coastal Trail Itinerary

Start to Wild Camping (90 minutes before White Spruce Harbour)

We finally hit the Coastal Trail at 1:30 PM, after a gnarly 3-hour boat ride and we head towards the bear locker instead of Swallow River – another 15 minutes of lost time. It’s 2 PM by the time we’ve taken our shoes off, waded through the Swallow River and start on the right trail. It’s also September with short days.

Our goal for the first night is White Spruce Harbour – 10 km away. There’s only one small problem. The trail is tougher than we figured and the rocks are sickeningly slick. So, our pace is slow – way too slow in my mind to get to our campsite. In fact, by 5 PM we are just at the Hideaway Lake campsite – and it looks like slow going ahead.

Continuing the Coastal Trail in the dark

After we pass the Hideaway Lake campsite in Pukaskwa – and the other group who has caught up to us – we are left pondering if we’ll make it all the way to our intended goal. We as a group decide to continue.

The hours march on. I spend a lot of time looking at the map wondering where we might find some flat ground to pitch the tents. I spy a lake, but when we reach it, I’m disappointed. There’s no flat ground.

We continue – with headlamps on now – and ever more slowly. Stomachs rumble but we ignore them. When we reach the coast, I can’t find the cairns in the dark and the rock is so slippery that I’m scared of falling and breaking something.

Jo says she can go no further which is fine by me. Somehow, we find two sorts of flatish sections of ground and pitch our tents in the dark.  We have a quick snack and fall into bed at 10 PM. Never have I been so happy to be in a tent.

And below is the campsite we wake up to.

Day 2 – Wild camping to Fisherman’s Cove Campground

A decent night’s sleep, a cup of hot coffee, and several slices of fresh banana bread at put us in a positive frame of mind to continue. We knew that most of the day would be in the woods. It’s the one section on the Coastal Trail that I would describe as the least interesting. Still, there is lots of colour, textures, mushrooms and lichens to liven up the hike.

It didn’t take us long to realize that we made the right decision to stay put for the night on the trail. The first part of the hike took us over super slippery rocks and then up through a cleft in the rocks that I never would have found in the dark. Even in daylight it took us 90 minutes to reach White Spruce Harbour. It’s a beautiful campsite.

After a lunch stop at White Gravel River – a huge campsite that’s great for large groups – we motored on. The trail in the afternoon was tough – though if the rocks had been dry, it would have been a snap. They were slick and slippery. Every step required concentration and careful foot placement. Interestingly the Vibram soles on my leather boots didn’t grip the rock but the rubber on my $15 Crocs did a fantastic job. It’s too bad they didn’t offer the support I needed to backpack in them.

About 2 PM in the afternoon the thunderstorm that had been forecast the day before shook the ground and deluged us with rain. I regret that I hadn’t brought some short gaiters with me – to help keep my boots dry.

We didn’t roll into Fisherman’s Cove until 6 PM. It had been a nine-hour day and we were all bagged. Fortunately, the rain stopped before we got to camp. We were able to set up tents without getting anything else wet and eat our spaghetti dinner with a view of Lake Superior. I’d schlepped a Nalgene bottle full of red wine – so with a view like we had, a glass of wine, a warm tent and a full stomach, life now seemed pretty good.

Day 3 – The Day from Hell

Don’t get me wrong about the day from hell. The scenery for most of the day is superlative – a 9/10 in my books. It’s the trail that is the problem and it’s a twofold one.

Finding the trail on occasion takes some time. And it’s particularly treacherous along the coast. Wet, slippery rocks lie in wait to derail the unsuspecting hiker. Take your eyes off your footing for a second at your peril. I have the bruises to prove it.

We start the day by going down a beach looking for a trail and taking tracks through the woods in error. By the time we’ve finally located the real trail – and waded a pond we’re already 30 minutes into the day and we’ve gone about 200 m.

Next is a stiff climb up a stream bed laced with large, mossy boulders. I’m already feeling anxious about our pace by the time we get to the top of the hill, but it still takes us another hour of walking through the woods before we reach the lake again. We haven’t even gone a kilometre.

When we arrive at Lake Superior again, we look in dismay at the rocks. They’re full of fractures – and easily capable of causing a leg break or sprain. It’s excruciatingly slow going to get through the rocks and another hour slips by.

I look repeatedly at the map figuring the map must be wrong. (You do need map reading skills out here!) But that’s just wishful thinking on my part. By the time we stop for lunch we’d hiked for 3.5 hours and covered about two kilometres. Even the dog seemed disheartened.

After lunch we enter the woods so for a while we make up some lost time. It seems we have an ongoing love/hate affair with the woods when it came to hiking the Coastal Trail. Today with the coast so rugged we were happy to be in the woods – and other times we’re begging for a beach. These woods are lusher and greener than I ever would have expected.

The afternoon wears on and we decide by 3 PM that there is no way we can make Morrison Harbour. Even Fish Harbour – 3.4 km closer – doesn’t seem possible. We set our sights instead on making it to Oiseau Bay.

We struggle on in the afternoon – alternating between hiking across slippery rocks, getting down on our rear ends with a heavy pack and sliding down rocks and enjoying the odd easy stretch in the woods.

It’s 5:15 PM when we reach Oiseau Bay – and what a wonderful sight it is. It boasts a huge, deserted beach – suitable in places for camping – though the official campsites are in the woods and closer to outhouses and bear lockers.

We decide to camp on the beach figuring we could dry out our clothes in the wind and enjoy the scenery from our tents. It’s more of a hike to the bear lockers, but I’d always take a beach over the woods for camping.

We hiked 7.2 km, averaging about a kilometre an hour – totally disheartening numbers. However, the beauty of the camp site, a hot meal of spaghetti with a glass of wine, and a superlative sunset provided a welcome boost to our spirits. So, the day from hell ended on a good note – but as the map reader I couldn’t help but wonder if we’d ever get off this trail.

Day 4 – Oiseau Bay to Willow River

Our plan for this day was to hike 14.1 km from Oiseau Bay to Willow River. We got started at 9 AM but didn’t roll into camp until 6:40 PM. Still, we were thrilled to have made it.

The hike was a delightful mix of woods and shoreline. The highlight was the section leading towards Fish Harbour that takes you through a cleft in the rocks and deposits you on the Lake Superior shoreline. Here you must scale a small cliff – which for us was no problem, but it required a big lift for the dog.

After lunch it was more forest hiking until we reached Morrison Harbour. We had made reservations to stay at Morrison Harbour – for the night before no less – but in hindsight I’m glad we didn’t end up camping here. It’s in the middle of bear country and the one area where you are warned at the orientation session to be on high alert for bears.

We had seen countless piles of bear scat before arriving at Morrison Harbour. I have never seen blueberries in such abundance as I did through here, so it makes perfect sense that the bears love the area.

Day 5 – Willow River to Hattie Cove

It was only 2°C according on the last morning. I had a hard time leaving the warmth of my tent but felt energized once I saw what a beautiful morning it was.

We knocked off 7.6 km to Hook Falls quickly because it was easier than expected. It was also very pretty. We passed small lakes, a waterfall and then hiked a series of ridges with views of the nearby hills. If we’d been a week later, the colours would have been at their peak.

We arrived at Hook Falls on the White River for lunch – ahead of the suggested time for once. There are a few campsites here, and in fact our reservation had been for Hook Falls, but I think the three of us were happy that we ended up at Willow River instead. Sometimes it pays to be slow.

I particularly enjoyed seeing the White River as my son had canoed it as a teenager. It’s a far more powerful river than I anticipated especially as it narrowed toward its’ end.

The hike from Hook Falls to the White River Suspension Bridge was quite gnarly despite looking benign on the map. It involved a lot of up and down as well as some clambering over logs left from a period of flooding.

Once we made it over the suspension bridge the hiking got noticeably easier for several kilometres. It was almost like a walk in the park. Once we reached the extensive boardwalks through the swamp at the far end of Hattie’s Cove we knew we were home free. It was at most a couple of kilometres to the parking lot.

We arrived at the parking lot at 6:15 PM which I though was amazing considering how Jo’s knee had slowed us down at the end of the day. Instead, it was an underwhelming finish but my gosh it felt amazing to be finished backpacking the Coastal Trail in Pukaskwa.

What Makes the Coastal Trail Challenging

I found the slippery lichen-covered rocks to be the most challenging aspect of the Pukaskwa Coastal Trail. Long granite ridges – similar to what you see on the La Cloche Silhouette Trail – look like they are made for quick and easy hiking. Instead, we were often scooching along on our butts because you risked falling if you stood upright on a slope. In fact, Ted wore out the bottom of his backpack from dragging it.

Long days were a challenge too. And the odd bit of route-finding. I would install Organic Maps (a free offline hiking app) on my phone if I were doing it now, to get my exact position in relation to the trail. There are a few places where it would have saved some time.

What to Pack for the Coastal Trail

The Coastal Trail in Pukaskwa National Park should not be your first backpacking trip. Carry the 10 hiking essentials (includes first aid kit, headlamp…) the gear listed below plus a few extra days worth of food. Please practice Leave No Trace principles.

Personal gear

• Sleeping bag and sleeping pad
• Bowl, utensils and this mug
• An emergency device like a Garmin InReach Mini 2
• Bear spray

Personal clothing

• Good quality rain gear with hood
• Quick dry short and long-sleeved t-shirts
• Sun hat, sunscreen, lip balm
• Long underwear, fleece, hat, gloves, warm jacket
• Quick dry shorts or long pants
• Hiking boots, camp shoes, several pairs of socks
• Bug hat, bug jacket

Camping gear

• Water filter or water purification tablets
• Tent and tarp
• Stove/pot combo and fuel
• Cooking pot, knife, food sacks, lightweight, high-energy food
• Duct tape, gear-aid tape

Is the Coastal Trail Worth It?

Despite the difficulty and hardships on the Pukaskwa Coastal Trail, I wholeheartedly recommend it. A few weeks after finishing it I got an email from Jo saying “You know reliving the pics makes me want to do the trail again; is that a weird feeling? 

It is one of my all time favourite backpacking trips in Canada. The Coastal Trail is hard, gnarly, beautiful, and desolate. It might test you, but the rewards and sense of satisfaction will never leave you. If you ever get the chance – go!

For more information about the hike and for detailed maps (and to make backcountry reservations) visit the Pukaskwa National Park website.

Tips for Hiking the Coastal Trail in Pukaskwa National Park

• Aim for a pack weight that is no more than 1/4 to 1/3 of your body weight.
• While you can hike it in 4 days, taking 5 – 6 days allows for a more enjoyable pace.
• Look for rock cairns – which are sometimes difficult to find in rocky sections.
• Be hyper aware of slippery rocks and wooden boardwalks.
• Start early in the day to maximize daylight and ensure you reach camp before dark.
• Wear sturdy, well broken-in hiking boots.
• Let someone know when you are due to finish.

FAQ’s Coastal Trail in Pukaskwa

More Hikes and Backpacking Trips in Northern Ontario

• La Cloche Silhouette Trail in Ontario – A Complete Guide – A challenging 78 km wilderness loop through the rugged quartzite peaks, pristine lakes, and dense forests of Killarney Provincial Park, perfect for backcountry hikers seeking rugged terrain and stunning views.
• How Hard is the Lake Superior Coastal Trail? A 3-Day Backpacking Report – A rugged, rewarding multi-day hike with dramatic shoreline views and true wilderness solitude
• The Top of the Giant Hike in Northwest Ontario – A demanding hike to one of the highest points in Ontario, overlooking the vast expanse of Lake Superior.
• The Hike to Agawa Falls in Northern Ontario – A scenic forest walk to one of Lake Superior’s most powerful waterfalls, best visited after rain or spring melt.
• Hike the Crack in Killarney Provincial Park – A challenging climb rewarded with one of Ontario’s most iconic panoramic views over white quartzite ridges and sapphire lakes.

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The post Hiking the Coastal Trail in Pukaskwa National Park: A 5-Day Backpacking Guide appeared first on Hike Bike Travel.

The route links together sections of the Trans Canada Trail along with some quiet country roads, a few noisy kilometres along the Trans-Canada Highway and two quintessential ferry rides. The route weaves between forest and coastal trails and through small towns like Shawnigan Lake, Chemainus, and Ladysmith before finishing back in Victoria on the Lochside Trail.

I spent a lot of time online working on trip routing as I wanted a loop bike ride. You could do an out and back ride – but the big hills in reverse were no more appealing than they were on the way out. And biking to Mill Bay and onto Victoria is something I’ve done in the past, and wasn’t interested in repeating. I also loved the fact most of the ride was either on quiet roads or the Trans Canada Trail.

Below, I describe our exact 4-day itinerary, what to expect on each section, and what I’d do differently next time.

If you’re looking for more inspiration, check out my guide to the best bike trips in Canada.

This post includes some affiliate links. If you make a qualifying purchase through one of these links, I will receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. I very much appreciate your support.

Route Overview: Victoria Loop via Shawnigan Lake, Chemainus and Sidney

• Total Distance: ~172 km
• Elevation: +638 m/-462 m on day one; +150 m day 2 (approximate), +100 m day 3 (approximate) and none on day 4
• Ferry segments: Duke Point to Tsawwassen and Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay
• Percentage on Trans Canada Trail: Around 67%

Map: Vancouver Island Backpacking Loop from Victoria

Day-by-Day Bikepacking Itinerary

Outlined below is our four-day bikepacking itinerary. At the bottom of the post I explain what I’d do differently next time.

Day 1: Victoria to Shawnigan Lake

• Distance: Victoria →Shawnigan Lake ~ 44 km to Southern Shawnigan Lake + 10 km to B&B
• Elevation gain/loss: Approximately +638 m/2,093 feet and – 462m/ 1,516 feet
• Time needed: About 5 hours with no stops – 6.5 – 7 hours with stops and walking bike in steep sections
• Highlights: Galloping Goose Trail in Victoria, Tacofino, Sooke Wilderness Trail, giant trees, suspension bridges, our Shawnigan Lake B&B
• Not so fun: Hail, snow, rain, freezing cold descent

What an epic day on the bike we had! We flew in from Calgary, and made our way to Cycle BC in Victoria to pick up our rental bikes. We were on the Galloping Goose Trail by 10:15 AM.

The cycling was easy all the way to Langford but we did stop a lot for pictures and some route finding. After a fabulous lunch at Tacofino we worked our way to the start of the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Trail by the Humpback Reservoir.

Ahead was several hours of tough climbing (with grades up to 16%) and descending thanks to a hail – snowstorm we ran into near the high point. Fortunately our bike handled well in the snow. In spite of the adverse conditions mid-afternoon, I loved all the big trees, the bridges, and the wilderness feel to the trail. But by the time we arrived at the B&B we were wet, dirty, tired and frozen – dreaming only of hot showers and sleep after our very early start to the day.

Day 2: Shawnigan Lake to Chemainus

• Distance: Shawnigan Lake →Chemainus: ~50 km
• Time needed: 4 – 5.5 hours depending on breaks, time at the trestle, route finding
• Highlights: Historic Kinsol Trestle, peaceful sections on the Cowichan Valley Trail, wildflowers, Glenora Store & Cafe, birds galore, murals in Chemainus, Chemainus waterfront
• Not so fun: Getting a flat

We had a beautiful sunny day for a bike ride. From our B&B we rode down to pick up a short section of the Shawnigan Village Rail Trail and then made our way to the Cowichan Valley Trail and on towards the historic Kinsol Trestle. We spent some time walking, and admiring the area – but didn’t hike any of the nearby trails.

From the trestle we enjoyed easy pretty biking along the Cowichan Valley Trail – and in hindsight wished we’d had time to take it all the way into Lake Cowichan. Instead we headed to a cute café in Glenora for lunch and then on into Duncan to pickup the Cowichan Bay Trail again.

We did have traffic in Duncan to deal with but once out of there we were back on the Cowichan Valley Trail all the way to Chemainus – though some of it was on road.

Chemainus was a great place to overnight – as everything was in walking distance of our accommodation – including the ocean.

Day 3: Chemainus to Duke Point Ferry + Swartz Bay Ferry to Sidney

• Distance: Chemainus → Duke Point Ferry: ~35.6 km
• Distance: Swartz Bay → Latch Inn, Sidney: ~5.5 km
• Time needed: ~3.5 hours biking + 2 hours on Duke Point Ferry +1.5 hours Swartz Bay Ferry (+ waiting time)
• Highlights: Swartz Bay Ferry route through the Gulf Islands, Ladysmith, quiet sections of the Cowichan Valley Trail
• Not so fun: ~3.6 km riding the Trans-Canada Highway

The biking was never hard on the third day of biking – but we were on the clock to be at the Duke Point Ferry by 12:30 PM at the latest. We made it with time to spare – but you never know if you’re going to get a flat, and I wanted extra time in case we had bike trouble. John did. A loose brake line was rubbing on the ground – and the fix – tying the line to the frame with dental floss.

The Cowichan Valley Trail – part of the Trans Canada Trail – travels north from Chemainus. It takes you through a wide variety of landscapes – neighbourhoods, fields, parks, farmland and ultimately adjacent to the Trans-Canada Highway – though with a concrete barrier for protection.

After cycling through the pretty community of Ladysmith we had to leave the Trans Canada Trail to get to the Duke Point Ferry.

Ladysmith to the Duke Point Ferry

1. Cycle 1.9 km along Rocky Creek Road from the Cowichan Valley Trail on the east side of the Trans-Canada Highway. (It was very quiet biking.)
2. Hop onto the Trans-Canada Highway for ~3.5 km (a good shoulder but noisy), exiting onto Cedar Road.
3. Follow Cedar Road for 6.4 km to reach junction with Haslam Road.
4. Turn right. Stay on Cedar Road for 5.3 km all the way to Harmac Road on the north side of the Duke Point Highway.
5. Follow the roads running parallel to Duke Point Highway – Harmac, MacMillan, and Maughan. (There are some big trucks on this section).
6. Get on the Duke Point Highway from a ramp off Maughan. Continue all the way to the ferry terminal – following signs for drop-offs and foot passengers.
7. Buy tickets inside the terminal and follow instructions on how to load on the ferry. Bikes are first on and first off.

Catch the Swartz Bay Ferry in Tsawwassen

We had 15 minutes between ferries in Tsawwassen so I didn’t expect to make it. However, I knew there would be another one in an hour.

We had luck on our side! After exiting the Duke Point Ferry we biked over to a nearby terminal building to buy the next set of tickets to Swartz Bay. We were directed down to the waiting area and were on a ferry again – about 10 minutes later.

Swartz Bay to Sidney

After the scenic ferry ride through the southern Gulf Islands to Swartz Bay, exit the ferry and bike up to the top of a small hill looking for Lochside Regional Trail signs. They are easy to spot.

This is the start of the 29 km trail – so simply hop on the trail (sometimes shared with cars with a dedicated lane) and bike into Sidney and wherever you are staying for the night. In the summer months, you could make it all the way to Victoria in daylight, but there are plenty of things to do in Sidney that I’d recommend a stop here.

Day 4: Sidney to Victoria via the Lochside Regional and Galloping Goose Trails

• Distance: Sidney→ Cycle BC bike shop (back side of the Fairmont Empress) ~27 km, including 4 km on the Galloping Goose Trail
• Time needed: ~2 hours
• Highlights: Pretty farm country, ponds, spring flowers, Matticks Farm, some ocean scenery

I have cycled the Lochside Trail on a couple of occasions, one as part of a harbour to farm tour – and on several occasions when I would visit my mother in Sidney. The trail is always a delight – though I was shocked at how busy it was on a sunny Saturday morning in April.

The Lochside Regional Trail travels through Sidney alongside the ocean, through farm country, and neighbourhoods to ultimately join up with the Galloping Goose Trail. From that intersection you’re in familiar territory, retracing your steps back to the bike shop. There are plenty of photogenic stops to pull you off the bike and lots of restaurants just off the trail once you reach downtown Victoria.

Highlights of the Bike Ride

• Flowers blooming in April
• Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Trail
• Shawnigan Lake swimming (in summer)
• Chemainus murals
• Lochside Regional Trail
• Ferry experiences
• Sense of accomplishment
• Discovering more of the Trans Canada Trail

Biking the Trans Canada Trail on Vancouver Island

Sections on the Trans Canada Trail we Bikepacked

Approximately 66% of what we biked was on the Trans Canada Trail.

• Day 1: Victoria to the southern end of Shawnigan Lake – then detoured to our B&B on the east side of the lake
• Day 2: Started at the junction with Renfrew Road a few kilometres northwest of Shawnigan Lake and took it to Rowe Road. Picked it up again in Duncan and biked it through to Chemainus.
• Day 3: Biked from Chemainus to north of Ladysmith where we left the trail to go to the Duke Point Ferry terminal.
• Day 4: Sidney to Victoria entirely on the Trans Canada Trail

What it’s Like

• Usually very well-signed
• Mostly good gravel
• Much of it on former rail trails
• Paved sections on roads
• Sometimes through neighbourhoods
• One section parallels the Trans-Canada Highway – but with a concrete barrier

Where we Left the Trans Canada Trail

• South of Shawnigan Lake (to get to our B&B)
• Detour to Duncan off the Cowichan Valley Trail in interests of time
• North of Ladysmith detoured off the trail to head for the Duke Point Ferry

Logistics for This Vancouver Island Bikepacking Trip

Ferries

You don’t need to reserve ferries if you’re on your bike but you should have a good look at the ferry schedule when you plan your trip.

The Duke Point Ferry from Nanaimo to Tsawwassen runs every 2.5 hours, so if you miss it, you have a long wait. The ferry from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay runs every one to two hours depending on the day and the hour. Check BC ferry schedules in detail based on your planned Vancouver Island bikepacking dates.

Water and Food Stops

We always carry at least one water bottle each and some protein bars for the times we run low on energy. I’d recommend looking at the map to see what towns you’re heading through at the start of every day. You shouldn’t have any problem finding cafes and restaurants except for the remote section on the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Trail through to Shawnigan Lake.

My favourite lunch stop was Tacofino in Langford. We happened upon it when we went looking for food at the corner of Kelly Road and the Galloping Goose Trail. I’ve eaten at the one in Tofino on several occasions so what a treat it was to discover this one. We also had good Thai food in Shawnigan Lake and again in Chemainus.

Type of Bike

We rented bikes from Cycle BC Rentals & Tours – located behind the Fairmont Empress Hotel in downtown Victoria. They were the only bike rental outfit I could find that rented bikes that fit our panniers.

We had touring bikes with dropped handlebars. I found the gearing stiff and the braking tough. (I smoked the breaks a few times coming down from the Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail). I would prefer an upright bike and a gravel bike would be great on these trails.

Navigation

We used Organic Maps – a free offline hiking/biking app. It had the full Vancouver Island bikepacking route on the app – so we would pin locations the night before so we knew where we were going.

For planning purposes I found the Trans Canada Trail map online to be very helpful.

Where to Stay Along the Route

The area we cycled is popular with tourists especially in the summer months. We stayed in three B&B’s described below.

• We didn’t camp – but if you do, your best option might be to check out Hipcamp for reasonable prices. Many of the provincial parks aren’t very close to the Vancouver Island bikepacking route we took.
• There are Airbnb options along the route but be careful where you book. Some places are a long way from any stores or restaurants.
• Beware of two night minimums especially in peak season.
• Other towns or cities to consider include Langford (if you got a late start), Lake Cowichan, Duncan, and Ladysmith.

Shawnigan Lake

We stayed at the lovely Shawnigan Suite Bed and Breakfast on the east side of Shawnigan Lake. The hosts were super helpful, throwing our wet, dirty clothes into the washer and dryer, and kindly picking up Thai food we had ordered so we didn’t have to get on our bikes at the end of an epic day.

There are some Airbnb options in town but camping options don’t look great. You could research Hipcamp and see if there is a place in the area that works for you.

Chemainus

We stayed at the centrally located Cottage and the Castle in Chemainus. Once we arrived we locked our bikes in a safe place and were able to explore the town on foot. Most restaurants were just a block or two away.

Sidney

We stayed at The Latch Inn, a few kilometres from downtown Sidney. It had a decent breakfast but it felt a little tired. There is some nice walking in the area but next time I’d go back to staying on the Sidney waterfront at the Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa – so I could catch one of their amazing sunrises.

What I’d Do Differently Next Time

I’ve done a number of multi-day cycling trips, and you can find more ideas in my roundup of bike rides across Canada.

Route Tweaks

My goal after pouring over the Trans Canada Trail map was to bike from Shawnigan Lake to Lake Cowichan and then onto Chemainus. I didn’t count on the biking taking as long as it did – so we had to nix part of the route to and from Lake Cowichan – or else have a grueling day. In hindsight, I would do this as a 5-day trip with Shawnigan Lake to Lake Cowichan as the second day and Lake Cowichan to either Chemainus or Ladysmith the third day. It would make for a more relaxed trip.

Gear

If you’re renting a bike be sure to ask for a bike repair kit, a spare inner tube, and a bike pump. See if they will include a multi tool as well. Many will provide a small front bag which is useful for anything small.

For a detailed list, see my guide on what to pack for a multi-day cycling trip.

• I swear by my Axiom waterproof panniers. Ours are at least 10 years old and are still going strong. (We were able to take two panniers each in carry-on!)
• I highly recommend packing a waterproof bike helmet cover in case it rains. It will keep your head a lot warmer. I have used a shower cap in a pinch.
• Bring bike gloves. I can’t imagine biking long distances without them. On cold days you’ll want full fingered bike gloves.
• Take a bike pump and a repair kit – and know how to change a tire. I’d also recommend bringing a few cable ties, a bandana, and a small roll of duct tape for one off bike or clothing repairs.
• Many of you might want a bike phone mount.
• I’d recommend packing a lime-green or yellow safety vest.

Is This Vancouver Island Bikepacking Loop Worth It?

Yes! In spite of getting hailed and snowed on I loved discovering this part of Vancouver Island on the back of a bike. I was wowed by the big trees we encountered on the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Trail, loved the laidback feel on the Cowichan Bay Trail, entranced by the Historic Kinsol Trestle – and enjoyed exploring several charming small towns.

I also love the fact that you’re deemed very approachable when you’re bikepacking on Vancouver Island. We had many people offer assistance when I got a flat, and also when we were looking for the right road for the Duke Point Ferry. On several other occasions people would randomly approach us to chat about what we were doing. I loved the social interaction that happens when you’re on a bike trip.

FAQ: Vancouver Island Bikepacking Loop from Victoria

More Great Bike Rides in Canada

• Best Bike Rides in Canada For a Day Trip – A curated list of Canada’s most scenic and rewarding day bike rides, from coastal paths to mountain roads.
• 5 Great Bike Rides in the Banff Area – A mix of scenic, beginner-friendly to challenging bike rides in and around Banff, highlighting some of the area’s most rewarding routes.
• How to Spend 5 days Cycling Prince Edward Island – A relaxed, scenic five-day cycling itinerary around PEI, featuring coastal views, quiet roads, charming towns, and plenty of seafood stops.
• 5 Best Bike Rides in the South Okanagan – Five standout cycling routes in the South Okanagan, ranging from easy rail trails to scenic road rides.
• Best Bike Rides in Ontario – A curated guide to the best bike rides in Ontario, highlighting scenic, accessible, and adventurous routes across the province.

Thank you to Vancouver, Coast & Mountains Tourism Region for help with ferries and accommodation.

Click on the photo to bookmark to your Pinterest boards.

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Fredericton comes alive in summer. Paddle the peaceful waters of the Wolastoq, bike along more than 150 km of multi-use trails, and explore vibrant markets filled with local food and crafts with a side of live music on Thursday nights. Outside the city, mountain bike through an otherworldly landscape of ridges and turquoise-coloured lakes – remnants of 400 years of coal mining.

A Saturday morning stop at the Fredericton Boyce Farmers Market, a wander through the fabulous Beaverbrook Art Gallery, and browsing local stores like The Artisan District make for a varied and interesting two day getaway. Here are my suggestions on the best way to spend two adventure-filled summer days in Fredericton.

Planning to spend more time in New Brunswick? Some other adventures in New Brunswick I’d recommend include the fun and unique Eye of the Needle Loop hike in Walton Glen Gorge and the first-class coastal drive along the Fundy Trail Parkway.

This post includes some affiliate links. If you make a qualifying purchase through one of these links, I will receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. I very much appreciate your support.

Why Fredericton Is Perfect for an Active Summer Getaway

• Easy access to nature: One of the best things about visiting Fredericton in summer is how quickly you can escape into nature. Within minutes of downtown you can be hiking, biking, or paddling along rivers and through wetlands.
• An excellent city for biking: Fredericton has more than 150 km of multi-use trails, including the South Riverfront and North Riverfront trails.
• Plenty of places to paddle: If you love kayaking or canoeing, look for numerous paddling routes on the Wolastoq (Saint John River) and tributaries that range from easy short outings to longer adventures best suited to experienced paddlers.
• Compact and easy to explore: Many of the best things to do in Fredericton, including outdoor adventures, breweries, markets, and galleries are close together, so there is less driving and more exploring.
• Excellent food and craft beer: Fredericton has a strong café, restaurant, and craft brewery scene.

If you only have 48 hours in the city, here’s how to spend two active summer days in Fredericton combining paddling, biking, markets, art, and delicious food.

Visit the Fredericton Boyce Farmers Market

If you’re in Fredericton on a Saturday morning between 7 AM and 1 PM, head over to the Fredericton Boyce Farmers Market – held at 665 George Street. Founded in 1951, it’s rated the number one thing to do in Fredericton by TripAdvisor – and it’s equally popular with residents. Featuring almost 200 vendors, you’ll find everything from locally-grown produce to baked goods, crafts, and international food stalls. There’s also an onsite restaurant.

Grab a coffee, sample a pastry and take your time wandering through the aisles, before heading out to explore more of Fredericton.

Experience the Garrison Night Market in Fredericton

The Garrison Night Market set on the grounds of a former British military garrison is held on Thursday evenings from 4:30 PM – 9 PM from mid-June until mid-September. It’s a fun way to experience Fredericton’s community spirit.

More than 120 vendors sell everything from locally-grown farm produce to artwork, clothing, and handmade goods. Each week you’ll find different vendor pop-ups and on-street performances. The number of food vendors is impressive offering everything from international street food to Hungarian chimney cakes.

Wander the area, grab dinner, and then enjoy one of the free outdoor concerts at nearby Officer’s Square.

Paddle the Wolastoq (Saint John River)

One thing I didn’t appreciate before visiting Fredericton is just how many paddling opportunities surround the city. Within a short drive of downtown, you can be kayaking through surprisingly wild landscapes. After a few hours kayaking the peaceful Wolastoq Island Route, I understood why paddling around Fredericton is so popular. It makes sense too, considering this was the home of the famous Chestnut Canoe Company. Our family had one of these canoes growing up.

Today paddlers can explore more than 100 kilometres of routes – both along the Wolastoq and its tributaries – including the Oromocto, Keswick, and Nashwaak rivers.

On the signature Wolastoq Island Route that I paddled, meander past about a dozen undeveloped islands between Mactaquac and the Delta Marriott Hotel, stopping to gawk at eagles and herons along with beavers, otters, and deer. You may even see a large sturgeon jumping – though we did not. The paddle ends conveniently at a dock beside the Delta Hotel – a great finishing point for lunch or a glass of wine while enjoying one of Fredericton’s epic sunsets.

There are several more signature paddling routes:

• the two – three hour Oromocto River-Sunpoke Loop through three distinct eco-systems
• the full day Keswick River 100-Turn Route for more experienced paddlers
• the 90-minute Nashwaak River route that starts in Marysville and ends at Picaroon’s Roundhouse.

The Wolastoq Watershed Paddling Trails in Fredericton are gearing up for a formal launch on Friday, June 12, 2026. Going forward, there will be a dozen official launch sites for paddlers in the city, along with drop-off sites, and parking areas. There are more than two dozen mapped routes covering over a 100 kilometres along with suggestions on where to rent canoes and kayaks.

Bike Fredericton’s Scenic Riverfront Trails

Bike-friendly Fredericton is home to more than 150 km of multi-use trails located on both sides of the Wolastoq (Saint John River). I explored part of the city’s extensive trail network with the help of a local guide and a rental bike from Savage’s Bike Centre – Canada’s oldest bike shop. The bike shop itself is worth a look – as it’s located in a former fire hall and still features the original brass fire pole and marks in the floor where the horses once stood.

Over a few hours on the relaxed bike ride, my guide and I traveled through downtown Fredericton past historic sites, museums, and cafes and through multiple neighbourhoods on the far side of the river. We cooled off with a cold one in the air-conditioned comfort of Picaroon’s Brewing Company before finishing the ride across the Bill Thorpe Walking Bridge. It offers one of the best views of downtown Fredericton. What a perfect way to spend a hot, sunny afternoon.

Mountain Bike the Colourful Minto Trails

For the most unique mountain biking experience in Atlantic Canada drive about 45 minutes east of Fredericton to reach the nondescript trailhead at the end of a dirt road for the Minto Trails. There is nothing else nondescript about the experience!

The bike trails weave through a former coal mining area with a 400-year history. The long ridges of mine tailings have been converted to flowy, sometimes very steep sections of singletrack, intersected with brilliantly-coloured emerald and turquoise lakes. I have never seen a place quite like it before.

I am a cautious mountain biker – and ready to hike at a moment’s notice. But these beautifully-constructed trails made me attempt things I wouldn’t otherwise. I practically had the place to myself so no one could hear the whoops of joy that came unbidden on the flowy sections.

The bottom line – this is fun, fast, flowy terrain with very few roots or rocks to worry about – except near the beginning of the trails. I didn’t attempt any of the expert black routes but I’m guessing there’s a strong pull to ride these by more experienced riders than I.

When you’re finished biking head to the Tiny Trails boutique campground and taproom, a kilometre from the trailhead. You can stay here in micro-motel setting or by camping in the woods. I simply got a cold drink and sank back into the comfort of a chair in the shade, marveling at what one man created.

Visit the Beaverbrook Art Gallery

If you’ve got an hour or more I highly recommend a visit to the Beaverbrook Art Gallery. Established in 1959 with a donation of 300 pieces of artwork by Lord Beaverbrook, the permanent collection has grown to over 5,000 pieces.

Many well-known and respected Canadian artists are represented including Alex Colville, The Group of Seven, Emily Carr, and Shirley Bear. There are also many international works spanning 600 years from western Europe and the United States, Indigenous art and rotating exhibitions.

At the entrance in the museum Grandfather Akwiten is on display. It is said to be the oldest surviving birchbark canoe in existence built by the Wolastoqiyik people in the early 1800s. It was recently returned after spending more than 100 years at the University of Galway in Ireland.

I also found the story of Pacotille/Trinket by Denise Richard to be very compelling. She delves into the consequences of fast fashion and mass production on ocean life. Her piece below, made of dollar store trinkets, serves as a reminder of the effect of our disposable culture on the destruction of marine ecosystems.

Explore Fredericton’s Downtown Shops

I am not a big shopper but when I’m in a new town or city I do like to see what the local shops are selling. I love visiting outdoor stores but I have a soft spot for crafty kind of stores too. If you’re in Fredericton, visit The Artisan District. I collect mugs from my travels – and this unique store has loads to choose from.

Where to Stay in Fredericton

I stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn in downtown Fredericton. It’s got a great location – within walking distance of most major sights.

More Great Things to Do in New Brunswick

• Fundy Footpath Hike in New Brunswick: A Full Guide – A detailed guide to hiking the rugged Fundy Footpath, covering trail length, difficulty, coastal views, camping spots, and planning tips for this iconic New Brunswick adventure.
• Kayaking Chance Harbour to Black Beach near Saint John, NB – Kayak along the scenic Bay of Fundy coastline from Chance Harbour to Black Beach, paddling past rugged cliffs and small caves to finish near a seal colony on an island across from Black Beach.
• Best Places to Visit in New Brunswick in Summer: Beaches, Islands & Hiking – From coastal parks to charming towns, these seven New Brunswick destinations shine in summer with outdoor adventures and scenic beauty.
• Fundy Trail Parkway Experience in New Brunswick – A drive along the Fundy Trail Parkway delivers dramatic Bay of Fundy scenery, waterfalls, and short coastal hikes in New Brunswick.
• 12 Stops on a Road Trip in Acadian New Brunswick  – Taste fresh seafood, wander colorful Acadian towns, and explore rugged coastlines on this New Brunswick road trip.

***Thank you to Tourism New Brunswick and the Fredericton Capital Region for hosting my stay. All thoughts and opinions are mine alone.***

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