What activity can equally thrill anyone between the age of 6 and 76? or even 86? Whistler’s zipline can do that in spades. Last week I took my niece ziplining, the day before her 15th birthday – when the price goes up. We were part of a group totaling 12 people plus two guides, ranging in age from 14 to 65ish. Whistler attracts an international crowd so our group comprised visitors from Germany, the States (Alaska & North Dakota) and Ontario.

My niece on the 2nd zipline

My niece chose the Ziptrek Eagle tour featuring 5 ziplines and 4 treetop bridges….but no eagles, at least on our tour. Everyone dons harnesses and helmets that get double checked by the guides before each zipline. Then it’s about a 10 minute drive up from Whistler Village to the start of the tour. The first zipline was pretty tame but it gives you a flavour of what’s to come. The third zipline provided quick but fantastic views of Fitzsimmons Creek. The fourth was fabulous. It was 671 meters (2200 feet) long – the longest in Canada and the second longest in North America. Scream your way down 20 storeys!

Yours truly...screaming by the looks of things.

On the last zipline you have the option of doing it upside down. I never had any doubts about my safety but wasn’t sure how keen I was about the rush of blood to my head. So I waited and watched the eleven others go. Peer pressure forced my hand & I too zipped upside down. But it’s all over so fast that I can recommend it.

My niece upside down with perfect form

The walk in the treetops is also fun. A series of platforms are connected by bridges that bounce and sway a little, some 200 feet above the ground. They take your safety very seriously and one look at at the heavy duty cables should reassure anyone with negative thoughts.

One of the treetop bridges

Some things to know before you go

• The zipline tours are 3 hours in length though if you don’t have a full group you’ll get through the tour a little faster.
• Water is provided at two of the zipline stations and platforms are heated in the winter.
• Bring your family. Everyone has fun. The minimum age is 6. You must weigh between 65 and 275 pounds though children under 65 pounds can zipline with a guide.
• The zipline tour is the most popular year round activity at Whistler so book well in advance. I booked through Whistler Central Reservations instead of Ziptrek which as it turned out was a mistake. The Central Reservation office sent me a confirmation (which I neglected to print out) with the correct date but sent Ziptrek incorrect information so we showed up with reservations supposedly booked 3 weeks away. It all worked out but it wasn’t as seamless as it should have been. My advice is to book directly with Ziptrek at 604-935-0001.
• You can leave backpacks and extra gear safely stowed in the Ziptrek office.
• Prices for the Eagle tour are $99 for kids 14 and under and seniors over 65, $119 for adults.

And now my niece wants to know if we can go bungee jumping next year. I’m glad I’ve got a year to think about it!

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

The first two photos were taken by the Whistler Ziptrek photographer.

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This fellow carried our eggs for days on Kilimanjaro and never missed a beat walking. Incredible.

Egg man on Kilimanjaro

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Ask a local from Cape Breton what their favourite season is and invariably the answer is the fall. Temperatures are comfortable, people are few and far between and the spectacular Highlands National Park scenery is at its best once the leaves begin changing colour.

Here are nine ways to enjoy the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island this fall.

• Take a drive (or bike) through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. You will be rewarded with eye popping vistas.

Vistas on the west side of Cape Breton Highlands National Park

• Visit the Alexander Graham Bell Museum in Baddeck. The genius and inventiveness of Alexander Graham Bell is impossible to miss. Allow at least two hours to wander through the museum, watch videos, check out exhibits and appreciate how prolific his interests were. The entrance fee is $7.80 per adult.

• Take a whale watching tour out of Cheticamp, Pleasant Bay or Bay St. Lawrence. Most companies guarantee whale sightings though often it’s the Pilot whale you’ll see. There are frequent sightings too of Fin, Humpback and Minke whales as well as dolphins, seals, eagles, cormorants and guillemots. Most tours are 2 ½ t0 3 hours in length.

• Play a round of golf at the Highlands Golf Course in Ingonish. They say It’s golf as its meant to be played – in Scottish fashion – which I think means it rains a great deal. If it doesn’t rain its a beautiful course.

• Relax on one of the lovely beaches. There are long stretches of beach near Dingwall and the area around Blacks Brook Cove is rocky but very pretty and well worth exploring.

Beach near Neils Harbour

• Plan a stop at the Clucking Hen, a roadside cafe and bakery south of Cape Smokey on the north shore of St. Ann’s Bay. It opens at 7am so you can pick up coffee and warm cinnamon buns or stay and eat in on the screened porch. If its lunchtime and you’re in the vicinity, make a beeline for the chowder and lobster sandwiches – all reputed to be excellent. If you’re sick of nothing but fried food at dinner then plan to stop for some fresh fish or lobster stew, favourites on the dinner menu. The Clucking Hen is now listed in the 2010 edition of Where to Eat in Canada.

The Clucking Hen Cafe and Bakery

• The Margaree Valley is famous for fly fishing particularly in the fall when salmon season is in full swing. Atlantic salmon range anywhere in size from 15 -40 pounds. When they bite it’s supposed to be quite a thrill. Hire a guide and see for yourself.
• Pick up a map showing the galleries and workshops of the local crafts people. Cheticamp is truly famous for its hooked rugs which I inwardly sneered at until I saw them. Some are incredible works of art that I would be proud to display in my house. One interesting fellow – Joe McKinnon, who has a small shop just before the turnoff to the Margaree Valley, hand carves folk art. My husband honed in on the typical male piece which would be the perfect gift for the male in your family.

Folk art

• Learn the history of the Acadians at Les Centre de Trois Pignon in Cheticamp. The Societe Saint-Pierre operates the center;  they have been working since 1947  to preserve the language, songs and folklore of the Acadians in addition to keeping  genealogical records which turns out to be a major draw.

There’s even more to do than what I’ve suggested. I didn’t even touch on all the hiking and kayaking possibilities. Explore this great country on Labour day weekend and if you’re anywhere near Cape Breton try some of the suggested activities.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Note: Golf photo from www.golfclubatlas.com.

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Charlottetown’s Great George Hotel is a splendid place from which to explore Charlottetown and to lay your head for a few nights. Its location is first rate – in the historic district right across the street from the impossible to miss St. Dunstan’s Basilica. All the major sights are within walking distance as are a number of very good restaurants.

Entrance to the Great George Hotel, Charlottetown

Fifteen heritage buildings with a total of 60 guest rooms complete the Great George Hotel. The main building – the Pavilion where you check in - has an interesting history dating back to 1846. The Pavilion was once a store-house combination selling everything from groceries to corsets. It was later remodeled to become the Pavilion Hotel, where delegates to the Charlottetown Conference on Confederation stayed in 1864.

If you’re visiting from Europe and used to very small rooms you might think you’d entered an elderly aunt’s apartment instead of a hotel room. Many of the rooms have a living room and some have kitchen facilities for longer term stays. Furnishings, some of which are antiques, complement the rooms.  Beds are very comfortable and reading lights are on both sides of the bed. You’ll find crisp white linens and Aveda toiletries. WiFi is included in the room rate as is breakfast. All day long you can make yourself a cup of tea or get a cup of coffee along with freshly baked cookies.

Breakfast is quite a social affair. It takes place in the great room adjoining the check-in. Numerous intimate seating arrangements have been set up in addition to a piano displaying autographed pictures of famous hotel guests. Every morning a breakfast buffet is offered featuring a vast selection of baked goodies, some eggs,  plus fruit, granola and yogurt . Grab a seat and help yourself to a TV table – though staff are around to help you with this.  You can choose to be social or sit quietly in one of the more intimate areas. In the summer you can also take advantage of the outdoor patio tables.

We were warmly welcomed by the front desk staff. Not only did they have a sense of humor they were unfailingly cheery and helpful. Plus they allowed us to store our bike boxes for 10 days!

Entrance to our Great George room

Improvements could be made in noise reduction. On our first morning (at 7:30) a tour bus sat outside the hotel running its engines for ages. Between the noise and the pollution this is one practice that should come to an end. Also if you have difficulty with stairs inform the hotel staff when making a reservation and be sure to ask for a ground floor room.

To make a reservation call 800-361-1118 or 902-892-0606. Rooms start at $219 per night in high season – between June and September. Expect to pay more if the room is an efficiency or if it comes with fireplace, a  Jacuzzi or a claw foot tub.

Leigh McAdam
www.hikebiketravel.com

Please note I did receive a discount on my two night stay from the kind people at the Great George Hotel.

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On our recent visit to the Magdalen Islands we spent a very enjoyable stretch of time walking the Havre Aubert beach and admiring the biggest sand castles I’ve ever seen. The annual Chateaux de sable des Iles is an event that will reach its 25th anniversary in 2011. This year 250 builders took part and over 10,000 visitors were wowed by the sand creations. Entry can be via one of three categories – family, corporate or free style. Competitors can take advantage of one of the sand castle building workshops in the weeks that lead up to the event. This sand castle competition is the biggest amateur event in the world. Mark your calendars to coincide with this fabulous community weekend next year - August 12-14th, 2011. It’s just another reason to vist the Magdalen Islands.

Check out some of the sand castles below. What’s your favourite?

Amazing detail on this sand castle

Fanciful whale castle

First place in the adult division

Major excavation work required for this castle

Sand castle attacked by an army

First prize in the family category

On the last day of the event you could actually get close to the castles.

Leigh McAdam
www.hikebiketravel.com

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Prince Edward Island is justifiably famous for its long stretches of beaches. The Cavendish area beaches and Brackley Beach are tourist favourites; I prefer the off the beaten path Greenwich section of PEI National Park.  In 1998 Greenwich became part of the National Park because of its large parabolic sand dunes, the endangered piping plover and many rare plants.

Boardwalks through the Greenwich section of PEI Nat'l Park

Floating boardwalk on the Greenwich Dunes Trail

Greenwich is accessed via Highway 313 out of the town of St. Peters, less than an hour’s drive from Charlottetown. Buy your park pass at the interpretation center (bikers are free!) for $7.80 per adult and spend at least 30 minutes checking out the displays. I took simple pleasure in trying to guess the bird type from the assorted stuffed ones and felt like a kid walking over the giant 3D map.  Then you have some tough decisions to make. Which beach do you want to explore? Greenwich Beach is a kilometer from the Interpretation Centre, accessed via a .75 km boardwalk. We chose the 4.5 km return trip to visit the Greenwich Dunes and beach.

Parabolic dunes in the Greenwich section of PEI Nat'l Park

It’s an easy walk to get to the dunes and the section over the floating boardwalk is particularly beautiful. (Do not bring your dog on this trail.) If I’d known more beforehand I would have brought a picnic lunch and a bathing suit. There are about six kms of lovely clean beach with very few people about.

The end of the Greenwich Dunes Trail

Beach in the Greenwich section of PEI National park

Two other trails offer hiking possibilities. Havre Saint Pierre is a short 1.25 km walk that explains the history of St. Peters Bay and the cultured mussel industry. The other hike on Tlaqatik Trail is an easy 4.5 kilometers. Enjoy great vistas of the very scenic St. Peters Bay and follow the interpretive signs to get a cultural overview of the area. Bring a pair of binoculars and try to catch a view of the endangered piping plover too.

Leigh McAdam
www.hikebiketravel.com

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The Domaine du Vieux Couvent on the Magdalen Islands is one of the loveliest places I have ever had the privilege to stay in. It had been recommended by a friend whose judgement I now hold in very high esteem.

Mural on the wall as you enter the Domaine du Vieux Couvent

The 10 room hotel was built between 1914 and 1918, originally as a convent. It was used for training young teachers by the nuns of the Notre Dame Congregation. Since 1969 it has been used as a small hotel though there are reminders of its original purpose – former confessionals are now bathrooms.

Our room was wonderful. Well chosen, simple pieces of furniture only enhanced the ocean views. A large bathroom with a glassed in shower provided two options for showering – the traditional showerhead or the rain shower. Locally produced shampoos and creams are provided as are thick towels and crisp linens. WiFi is available in the rooms though TV’s are not – and who needs one on these islands anyway?

Our room at the Domaine du Vieux Couvent

We’ve stayed in many hotels over the years that have lovely views, nice amenities and great layouts. But few compare to the feeling one gets in this hotel. There is a serenity here that you don’t find often. Combine that with extraordinarily friendly staff - people who laugh often and seem very genuine. Everyone is helpful but don’t expect the cloying service you find at some hotels- the ones where your bags are whisked away and you feel like you have to tip three times before you reach your room.

The restaurant is always busy. Many of the tables enjoy terrific views over the ocean and hayfields. Better food is available on the island but the ambience here is second to none. There is a great vibe in the dining room and again waitpersons have some personality – all of it positive.

Part of the view from the restaurant

Rooms are not inexpensive. In high season (July 18th – August 14th) rooms are $200 to $275 per night though in low season they’ re $125 to $175 per night. Breakfast is included with the room. The hotel is only 5 kilometers from both the ferry and the airport.

This is a boutique hotel with personality on islands that I would happily visit again. Do try to visit the Magdalen Islands once in your lifetime and when you go, endulge your senses with a wonderful stay at the Domaine du Vieux Couvent.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

PS. I did not receive any discount or free products during my stay.

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The Cabot Trail makes a 298 km (185 mile) loop around the northern part of Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia passing through the very scenic and hilly Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It’s considered to be one of the best places for a bike tour in all of North America and on the ‘must do’ list of many a serious biker. Between 250,000 and 300,000 people visit the National Park portion of the Cabot Trail every year … mostly by car. Whether by bike or car you will likely be awed by the scale of the hills and the majesty of the country.

Trying to out run an approaching storm on the way to Cheticamp.

Looking north to the Cape Breton Highlands from Cheticamp

We are taking five days to bike the entire Cabot Trail. Baddeck, the summer home of Alexander Graham Bell, was our starting point and where we plan to finish tomorrow. Although the first day was easy the others have been challenging and tomorrow beckons with a hilly 100 km ride. Lovely.

The easy hills through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park - seriously.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park

The weather has been fully cooperative. Prepared for driving rain and freezing temperatures we have instead enjoyed sun on 3 out of 4 days; on the first day we were safely inside a hotel room when the skies opened. That storm dropped 6 inches of rain at the northern end of Cape Breton and wiped out three bridges. Over 100 people are to be evacuated by boat.

Great views before the descent to Pleasant Bay

Water the colour of steeped tea

The climb out of Pleasant Bay - 13% grade over 3 kilometers

The people are friendly except when...

Jean Chretien scarecrow (lots of world leaders available)

Cycling allows you to notice some things you’d miss in a car like the gravestone (above) but the scarecrow sight on the way to Cheticamp was hard to ignore.

The Cabot Trail deserves more time than my five days. With extra time I would check out the pods of pilot whales, try some sea kayaking,  hike the Skyline Trail in search of moose and walk the beaches.  Others might try a round of golf at the famous Highland Links course or check out one of the many museums including the famous Bell Museum in Baddeck. Artisans have shops all over the island and many are worthy of a visit. Did you know that Cheticamp is the hooked rug capital of the world, a fact new to me too.

Look for more Cabot Trail photos, info & experiences over the next few weeks.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

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The Magdalen Islands in Quebec are a photograher’s dream. Colourful houses, fantastic red rock cliffs, and a unique and interesting landscape combine to offer unlimited photographic possibilities.

Red rock cliffs of the Magdalen Islands

I was having great fun with colour, different angles and light until my camera got hit by a rogue wave while I was dozing on a beach. I didn’t lose the pictures but I did fry the electronics. I’m on my backup camera for the rest of the trip which doesn’t do quite the same job.

Houses are painted every colour of the rainbow – partially to brighten dreary winter days but also to serve as a marker for boats at sea.

Colourful Magdalen Island house

How about a purple house?

Or maybe green?

I like the pink and purple combination

Blue is good too.

If you are a real photographer then you can do justice to the landscape.

The Magdalen Islands in the morning light.

More Magdalen Island red rock cliffs

Time for some relaxation too.

The islands are famous for their food and in fact boast numerous restaurants in the book Where to Eat in Canada. If you enjoy food photography and restaurants with stunning views and colourful characters then you’ll find plenty of subject matter. I’ll leave you with a photo of one of Quebec’s specialties that I have yet to try.

Poutine for those not worried about their ticker.

 Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

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It was love at first sight… of the Magdalen Islands. My first view of these magical islands from the deck of the ferry was of Île d’Entrée, a knobby landform of red cliffs with a smattering of houses on grassy sections. 

First View of the Magdalen Islands from the ferry

The Magdalen Islands are a string of six islands, linked by sand dunes, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  Accessed via a 5 hour ferry ride from Prince Edward Island or a flight from Montreal, Quebec City or Gaspe,  the islands remain largely unknown, even to Canadians. They are mostly French speaking though English is widely understood. The Magdalen Islands have a permanent population of 12,000 people, many of whom are Acadians or are descendents of shipwreck survivors. 

Proud Acadians

There are plenty of activities to keep everyone happy, especially ones involving wind sports or the beach. The wind blows constantly and there are over 300 kms of beautiful beaches – many of which you can claim for yourself. 

Kitesurfing on the Lagune du Havre aux Maisons

Windsurfing in Le Bassin

Exploring the red rock

The Magdalen Islands offer more than wind and beaches. Bike part of Quebec’s Green Route from Îles du Havre aux Maisons all the way out to Îles de la Grand Entrée, about 60 kms away. Explore sea caves by kayak or don a wet suit and swim in the caves. Visit artist’s studios, especially the Artisans de Sable (art made of sand).Try one of the local brews, with alcohol levels up to 9%! Dine incredibly well. Stay at a converted convent. Enjoy the hospitality provide by the Madelinots.

Red cliffs of the Magdalen Islands

Magdalen Island homes

Boating on one of the bays

Definitely plan a visit to the magical Magdalen Islands.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

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