At Hiking New Zealand, we take you on unforgettable adventures through breathtaking landscapes and diverse ecosystems, and while the great outdoors is full of wonders, tiny creatures like sandflies and mosquitoes can sometimes be part of the experience. With the right preparation, you can easily stay comfortable and enjoy every moment of your journey, whether you're hiking through lush rainforests, camping on pristine beaches, or soaking in stunning views. 

What Are Sandflies?

Sandflies, (or namu, in Māori), of the Austrosimulium genus, are tiny insects found predominantly in New Zealand's coastal areas, particularly in the South Island and in more rugged, remote locations. Though small (about 2 to 5mm), they thrive in moisture-rich environments like beaches, forests, and wetlands and are most active in the warmer months, typically from October to April.
Sandflies are attracted to carbon dioxide, body heat, and certain chemicals produced by our skin, including lactic acid and sweat. They bite to feed on blood, which provides the necessary proteins for their eggs. 

New Zealand’s Mosquito Species

Unlike in other parts of the world, New Zealand’s mosquitoes are not known to carry diseases, making them more of an inconvenience than a threat. The most common species, Culex pervigilans, is active from late spring to autumn, usually at dawn and dusk, but other species, like Aedes australis, can also be found in some parts of the country. These mosquitoes are especially active during the warmer months of the year, from late spring to autumn, and tend to be most active at dawn and dusk. 

What if I get bitten?

In most cases, not much, really. A sandfly bite will leave you with a small bump from your bite that might itch occasionally for a couple of days before clearing up. Try to not scratch bites, and have some antihistamine cream to hand if you find the itching annoying. A mosquito bite in New Zealand causes similar symptoms to bites anywhere else, like itchiness, swelling, and redness. For some individuals, mosquito bites can lead to more severe reactions, such as a rash or an increased allergic response.

Sandflies and New Zealand’s mosquitoes are not vectors for major diseases, but can be disruptive when camping or hiking in remote regions where sandfly and mosquito populations can be dense.

How can I protect myself?

Repellents

Insect repellent is readily available to purchase at pharmacies, dairies, outdoors shops and supermarkets across New Zealand. You’ll easily be able to find a repellent that suit your needs.

Repellents are available in various forms like sprays, lotions, creams, and wipes, so you can choose the one that best suits your preferences.

For those who prefer a more natural approach, there are several DEET-free insect repellents on the market. These repellents often use natural ingredients that are known to repel sand flies and mosquitoes, such as citronella, eucalyptus, and tea tree oil. My favourite is Ōkarito Sandfly Repellent.
DEET (N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide) is widely used in insect repellents globally. It works by blocking the receptors that mosquitoes and other biting insects use to locate humans. DEET-based repellents offer long-lasting protection, from mosquitoes and sand flies.

I don’t recommend getting insect repellant in your mouth. It tastes awful.

Traditionally, Māori used crushed leaves of the Ngaio tree to deter mosquitoes and sandflies. The juice from the leaves was applied to bites to relieve the itch.

The Right Clothing

Physical barriers can also provide significant protection. Since sandflies and mosquitoes are most active at dawn and dusk, your simplest plan of action is to wear long sleeves, and pop on a pair of socks. Wearing long-sleeved shirts, long pants, and socks can reduce the amount of exposed skin, making it harder for sand flies and mosquitoes to reach you. It's also a good idea to wear light-coloured clothing, as darker colours tend to attract more insects.

Avoid Peak Insect Activity Times

Timing is also an important factor when it comes to avoiding bites. Sandflies and mosquitoes tend to be most active during certain times of the day. For sand flies, they are often most aggressive during the late afternoon and early evening, while mosquitoes tend to bite during the early morning and at dusk.
When I camp or sit outside in the evenings, I often light a citronella candle or coil which helps to keep insects away.

In Māori folklore, Tū Te Rakiwhānoa carved the fiords with his adze, Te Hamo. His masterpiece was Piopiotahi, Milford Sound. Looking back on his work, he saw it was so beautiful that anyone who saw it would want to stay forever. So he asked Hinenuitepō (the Goddess of Night) to leave behind namu, the sandflies, to make sure no one could stay still for long.

Next time a sandfly finds you on the track, take it as a sign you’re somewhere truly special.

Words by Anna, HikingNZ

A Park with a Deep History

The Coast Track traverses the full coastline of its namesake national park: New Zealand's smallest. The park’s human history goes back roughly 700 years, evidenced by Māori middens and pā (fortified village) sites along the coast, with the historic iwi (tribe) Ngāti Tūmatakōkiri present at the time Europeans arrived. On 18 December 1642, the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman anchored two ships near Golden Bay, becoming the first European to reach New Zealand, but he never set foot on land here. Tasman in his ship’s journal recorded that a small boat ferrying between his two ships was rammed by a waka (canoe) the next morning, a skirmish followed, and four of Tasman's crew were killed. Tasman named the bay ‘Murderers Bay’ and left immediately. It would be another 128 years before Captain James Cook sailed past, twice, in 1770 and 1773, without landing either time due to unfavourable winds. The French explorer Dumont D'Urville properly charted the coastline in 1827, naming Adele Island after his wife, and the adjacent Astrolabe Roadstead after his ship.

European settlement and attempts at farming, logging and quarrying followed in the 1850’s, but were unviable by the 1930’s and the land remained relatively underdeveloped and available for protection when its conservation values were recognized in the 1940’s.        

The park was established on 16 December 1942, to coincide with the 300th anniversary of Tasman's visit, largely due to the efforts of ornithologist and conservationist Pérrine Moncrieff, who campaigned for the land to be protected. It has grown since: most recently with purchase of seven hectares at Awaroa Inlet, after a successful public crowdfunding campaign, a detail that says a lot about how fond New Zealanders are of this particular stretch of coast. Some private enclaves of holiday homes remain, mostly at Torrent Bay and Awaroa.

Since the park’s establishment the environment has recovered to such an extent that little sign of former extractive land use remains. Most notable in recent years has been a landscape-scale philanthropy funded restoration effort to bring back the native birdsong.

The Track at a Glance

The most walked section, Marahau to Totaranui, runs 45 kilometres one way and can be walked in either direction, typically over three to four days. Water taxis service both ends and bays in between, which means you are never fully committed to walking the whole distance if the weather or your legs have other ideas. The one genuine logistical catch is the Awaroa Inlet crossing, which can only be made within a window of one hour thirty minutes to two hours either side of low tide, so checking a tide timetable before you plan your days is essential. The wider national park draws as many as 300,000 visitors a year, making it New Zealand's most visited national park, though the great majority of those are day trippers on kayak tours and short walks rather than multi-day trampers, so the track itself never feels as crowded as that headline figure suggests.

Combining Walking and Kayaking

Since kayaking is such a major part of how people experience this park, it's worth knowing the rough paddling times between key points: Marahau to Observation Beach is around three hours, Marahau to Anchorage around four, Anchorage to Bark Bay about two, and Bark Bay to Onetahuti roughly ninety minutes. Many visitors mix a kayak leg with a walking leg in the same day, using a water taxi to reposition, which is part of what makes this Great Walk uniquely flexible.

Booking the Track Independently

If you're walking independently, the track has four huts, Anchorage, Bark Bay, and Awaroa on the Marahau to Totaranui section, and Whariwharangi in the north of the park, plus nineteen campsites. All of them must be booked in advance year round through the Department of Conservation website, with no exceptions even for a single night. Huts here are relatively comfortable, to Great Walk standards with flush toilets, though you still need to bring your own stove, food, and sleeping bag. During the summer (Oct-April), expect to pay NZ$84 a night for an international adult and NZ$55 for a New Zealand resident, dropping to NZ$33 for any adult in winter (July-Aug) and NZ$ 42 outside those seasons, and half rates for children (5-17 years). Campsites provide toilets and cooking shelters with differential summer pricing of NZ$31/21 for adults. Check the Department of Conservation website for up to date pricing. Turning up without a valid booking can mean a penalty fee or being turned away if the hut or campsite is full. Book your DOC dates first, then book your water taxi connections separately with an operator such as Abel Tasman AquaTaxi or Wilsons Abel Tasman, since the two booking systems aren't linked and you need to match your boat booking with your track days.

Highlights Along the Way

The most varied section is the 11.5 km stretch between Bark Bay and Anchorage, taking three to four hours depending on the tidal Torrent Bay crossing, and including the 47 metre Falls River swing bridge, Cleopatra's Pool, a clear green swimming hole tucked into the coastal forest, and the golden sands of Torrent Bay and Anchorage Beaches. From Anchorage, the Pitt Head Loop is a worthwhile short detour, 3.4 km return, taking in views over the headland and the remains of a pā and old kumara gardens, without needing to be part of a longer day.

Wildlife You Might See

Abel Tasman's mild coastal climate supports genuinely abundant birdlife: listen for tūī, bellbird and reintroduced kākā through the forest sections, and watch for shags, gannets, and little blue penguins diving just offshore. Fur seals regularly haul out on the rocks around Adele Island, a predator-free sanctuary just off the coast, and stops to view them are a common feature of water taxi trips.

Practical Tips Before You Go

Depending on your stepping off point to access the park, Kaiteriteri or Marahau cafes have the last real coffee, or the first one waiting for you on the way out, and the Fat Tui Burger food truck parked in Marahau has a strong claim to one of the best burgers in the South Island. Pack sunblock, a swimsuit, comfortable hiking footwear, and water sandals for the tidal crossings. If you are self-driving and combining a cruise with a day hike, plan your start and finish from the same point, Marahau or Kaiteriteri, since the road between the two is around 7.5 km and not really suited to walking, with only limited shuttle options.

How Fit Do You Need to Be

Our guided Abel Tasman trips, the 3-Day, 5-Day, and Kayak and Hike options, are all Grade B, described on each trip page as a ‘soft adventure’ with an element of challenge. That fits the track itself: well-formed and largely flat, but still enough distance and sun exposure across several days to reward a reasonable general fitness level rather than none at all. The similarly graded South Island Grand Hikes itinerary includes a full day in the park, including scenic water taxi transfers and the highlights of the Bark Bay to Anchorage track section.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to walk the Abel Tasman Coast Track?

Marahau to Totaranui is usually walked over three to four days, though water taxis make it easy to shorten this to a single day hike section between bays.

Do I need to time my walk around the tides?

Yes, for the Awaroa Inlet crossing specifically, which is only safely passable within a window of one and a half to two hours either side of low tide. Other sections of the track are not tide-dependent, since they have longer alternative high tide routes.

Is the Abel Tasman Coast Track suitable for families?

Yes, it's one of the most family-friendly Great Walks in the country, with moderate climbs, on well-formed tracks, frequent swimming spots, and water taxis that let families choose their own walking distance each day.

Can I do a day hike rather than the full multi-day track?

Yes. Combining a water taxi or coastal cruise with a shorter walking section, such as Bark Bay to Anchorage, is a popular way to experience the park's highlights without committing to the full three days.

What should I pack specifically for this track?

Beyond standard hiking gear, sunblock, a swimsuit, and water sandals for tidal crossings are worth having, since this is one of the warmer, more swim-friendly Great Walks.

Walking Abel Tasman With Us

If you would rather have the lodges, meals, and water taxi logistics handled for you, our Abel Tasman 3-Day and 5-Day trips walk this same coastline with only a day pack to carry, and our Kayak and Hike option adds paddling for those who want to see the coastline from the water as well as the track. South Island Grand Hikes offers one day of Coast Track highlights as part of a full South Island itinerary.

Words by Martin, HikingNZ

Luke Higinbottom - Guide

Tell us about your hometown

I grew up in North Canterbury, in and around the town of Rangiora. I was lucky enough to spend a lot of my childhood running a muck on the farm, there was no time for screen time. It was a wicked place for a young kid to grow up, having so many outdoor activities right on our doorstep. Over the last few years, I have been lucky enough to call some very special places abroad home: Canada, the USA and most recently in Hong Kong. 

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

I love all things outdoors! You’ll find me in the mountains skiing, in the hills hunting, in the rivers kayaking, in the lakes waterskiing, at the beach surfing, or in the ocean fishing and free diving. I also enjoy playing and watching rugby and dabbling in various other sports such as golf and squash. All these things I love to do with friends and family.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

I really like knowing where I am and what’s around me. For me, this means having NZ Topo 50 downloaded. It also means I can create points on the map of places I’ve been and where I have seen different exciting things. 

Can you share a memorable encounter with wildlife during a hike?

While working for Southern Rewilding, it was always pretty special when a Toutouwai New Zealand Robin would decide to hang out and follow me around while I went from trap to trap looking for pests. 

As a guide, what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Two things: always check the weather, because it can be wild, and embrace your inner bird nerd. It will make your time in our forests truly exciting.

How do you stay motivated on a long day on the trail?

Taking a moment to appreciate where I am, the company I am with, and what’s around me. Oh, and thinking about what’s for dinner. 

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

Can’t beat a cheeky packet of Jet Planes to keep you going through the day.

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

I would like to explore deeper into Fiordland and get over to Rakiura, Stewart Island. 

Nathalie - Guide

Tell us about your hometown

I'm an Aucklander, and I'm happiest when there's a track ahead, water somewhere nearby, and something interesting growing, swimming, or flying past to investigate. I love that the ocean is never far away, and there are so many islands, bays, and stretches of coastline to explore. You can escape the city surprisingly quickly and find yourself somewhere that feels completely different.

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

Sea kayaking is a favourite. I love exploring the coast and finding beautiful places to camp. Otherwise, I'm usually reading, trying to improve my skills at some sort of craft, or planning the next adventure.

How do you stay motivated on a long day on the trail?

Delicious snacks (have I mentioned that?) definitely help! A great conversation with the people I'm hiking with can make the kilometres disappear, too. And there's always something to look out for along the way. I love spotting flora and fauna and trying to identify what we find. It gives you a good excuse to stop and look closely at where you actually are, and there are some great apps to help with that these days.

Where in New Zealand would you still love to hike?

Stewart Island/Rakiura. It's right at the bottom of the country, and it's somewhere I still haven't explored on foot. There's something particularly appealing about its remoteness, forests, coastlines, and wildlife. I'd love to get down there and properly explore it one day.

What's a memorable wildlife encounter?

I love it when pīwakawaka (fantails) follow you along the track, flitting around and seeming to cheer you on. They're such entertaining little companions. Finding an eel in a stream is always special too. Sometimes the wildlife moments you remember most aren't the dramatic ones. They're the little moments when you stop, look into the water, or notice something moving beside the track.

What's your top tip for hiking in New Zealand?

Layers are great! New Zealand weather is always changing, so on any given day you should be prepared to be warm, cold, dry, wet, or quite possibly all of the above. Don't assume the weather you start walking in will be the weather you finish in. And pack good snacks.

Caitlin Todd - Guide

Tell us about your hometown?

Less of a hometown, more of a homecity! I was born and raised in our largest city, Auckland. My family and I spent our time enjoying the local parks and tracks especially around the Waitakere Ranges. In the summer time we also took advantage of the many beaches that you can access all around Auckland.

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

I like to strike a balance between doing not a lot and getting out! I love being in the outdoors. Camping and finding good swim spots during the summer, climbing, and slowly getting into mountain biking! In my down time I also enjoy reading and cooking up creations in the kitchen.

As a guide what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Take it slow and take your time. The tracks and trails offer so many opportunities to see and experience amazing flora and fauna, as well as spectacular views and landscapes. It's easy to miss the beauty when you rush!

How do you stay motivated on a long day on the trail?

Having company is a great balm to boredom and losing motivation! My friends and I keep ourselves entertained with word games, riddles and sharing of lots of good trail snacks. Packing a good dinner always gets me through to the end of the day as well. However I also enjoy hiking on my own, in which case a large playlist of my favorite songs and podcasts and embracing the opportunity to have time to myself with my thoughts (a great passer of time).

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

After years of being on the trail, through a lot of trial and error, I have found my perfect snack list that comes with me on any hike. Sour gummy worms, Whittakers chocolate block, salty crackers with hummus and an abundance of muesli bars.

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

The wild West Coast of the South Island. Having just moved to Reefton I am excited to have this whole area as my backyard, and look forward to the challenge of the tracks.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Yes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing deserves its 'must do' reputation. It's like hiking a miniature piece of Bolivia's volcanic Altiplano: brilliant charcoals, ochre reds, immense skies pierced by volcanoes, absurdly coloured lakes, and the realisation that the earth is breathing and heaving beneath your feet. It's totally worth the hype!

Curiously, many New Zealanders are dismissive of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing because, on a fine day, there are occasionally crowds of a thousand or more on the track. But that's a strong Kiwi view of what makes a hike enjoyable. Anyone who's spent time in the national parks of North America, Europe, Wales, or places like Table Mountain in Cape Town is familiar with these sorts of numbers.

Some advice: don't rush it, especially if your car's parked conveniently at the end. Meeting a shuttle? Use the track times to work out roughly when you need to reach the car park, then once at the summit spin your day out accordingly – unless sitting in a dusty car park waiting for a shuttle appeals. The trail is a much nicer place to waste time.

We also hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing as the finale of our multi-day hike across the Tongariro Northern Circuit, on our small-group trips, and it's a completely different experience. Spend two quiet days on the Northern Circuit exploring the mountain's wilder eastern flanks before emerging blinking onto the Crossing at Emerald Lakes, giving you the best of both worlds. Remote and astonishing, and then walk 'backwards' out to Mangatepopo road end!

What to Expect on the Walk, a description of the track

The set direction is from Mangatepopo road end in the west, at 1,120 metres, through the South Crater between Mounts Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro, climbing to the high point on the lip of Red Crater, and then down down down past the old Ketetahi Hut site to the bush and the road end at 760 metres. This direction means less climbing than walking it the other way. Have a look at the Mountain Safety Council YouTube for timings, hazards, weather, and gear.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is challenging, but not quite in the way people imagine. Only about a third of the day involves the rough volcanic terrain that many imagine when they think of the Crossing. There is remarkably little wasted climbing on the Crossing. Almost every metre you climb buys you altitude, rather than losing it again around the next corner. It is challenging on several levels: the distance, the exposure to the elements, the altitude gain, and a long descent that tests different muscles. This descent has a faintly Sisyphean quality too; progress underfoot with no apparent nearing to the car park – especially those infuriating zigzags!

The best way to describe this walk is the rule of thirds.

The first third steadily ambles up a broad valley on a well-formed track to the base of a significant steep climb up the headwall known as the Devil's Staircase (90 min). This steep but well-engineered trail with plenty of stairs eventually sidles across to the edge of the dead flat South Crater (45 min). Underfoot there are some slabs of stone made into steps, a little bit of rocky stuff, but generally very well-formed, especially in the valley. Quite a few people walking this easy valley section are simply doing the return walk to Soda Springs, so the first bit of this one-third can be a little busier here later in the mornings.

The middle third is the truly spectacular alpine section. The trail surface varies from dead-flat across clay pans (South Crater) to sidles beneath crags on skatey, slippery clay to sections of deep loose scree (both climbing and descending Red Crater lip). From Emerald Lakes the track is generally well formed again, despite still being high and exposed in the alpine zone. From the Blue Lake toilets, the generously graded track descends, passing the odd washout and damage from winter avalanches. It plugs on towards the old Ketetahi Hut site in a succession of infamous zigzags; some so horizontal that you begin to wonder whether someone lost the plot in a white-out when they built it.

Hikers string out more on this middle section so it's not as crowded, even on those big days. But on a no-wind day at Emerald Lakes people rightfully linger. A picnic at Emerald Lakes? Think Central Park, but with volcanoes.

The final third from the old hut site is an exceptionally well-made trail. Ironically, although it's the easiest section technically, the hard, compacted surface and thousands of step-downs are tiring. I sometimes take (mountain) running shoes for this section. Steady but mostly not steep through waving tussock lands, then after about forever, a short sharp descent over the toe of an ancient lava flow and into the welcome shade of the forest, 15 min of steepness and back to gentler trail to the end.

Scenery That Lives Up to the Reputation

It's easy to get a bit giddy about the scenery concentrated in that middle third. Not that the first third isn't spectacular too, but the middle is the secret sauce: a volcanic moonscape of contorted lava flows and ash fields, Red Crater, those ridiculously coloured Emerald Lakes suddenly appearing. Lava valleys, scarlet moonscapes, steaming craters make it feel wonderfully otherworldly, and starkly different from almost any other hiking in New Zealand. It is easy to see why it is considered the best one-day walk in the country. And why it's rightfully a bit busy.

There is also more mana to the place than the scenery alone suggests. Tongariro is New Zealand's oldest national park (tuku and intended partnership from local Māori with the Crown in 1887), and the fourth oldest in the world. In 1993 it became a UNESCO mixed cultural and natural World Heritage Site, recognition that this is a remarkable landscape in more ways than one. BTW if you are wondering where that famous photograph of the Emerald Lakes is taken from, it's a few metres into the descent (just after the high point at Red Crater), at around the halfway point of the Crossing. It really is quite the spot. The ochre-red scree slope makes the descent look rather more intimidating than it is, but take your time and choose your footing.

A Word on the Mountain's Significance

Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro hold deep cultural significance to Ngāti Tūwharetoa and Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro, who consider the peaks to be ancestors. Since 2017, DOC has removed trail markers on the routes to the summits and worked with local iwi to discourage visitors from climbing them, a request worth respecting. Local iwi have asked visitors to refrain from referring to Ngāuruhoe by its film name, Mt Doom. None of this changes how the Crossing itself is walked, but it adds a layer of meaning to this wonderful place.

How Busy Does It Get?

I've been guiding here for the last 30 years and walking it for 20 before that (that's a little confronting). It is busier now than in the early 2000s. Other than the first fine weather day after a week of grimness, the usual busy periods are Easter and the Christmas to early New Year period when we Kiwis are all on holiday. On these occasions, get ready for a long line, especially for the first hour or so.

New Zealanders can be quick to dismiss the Tongariro Crossing because on those days it can feel really busy. Personally, I think that's a bit unfair as the rest of the time I don't find it markedly busier than popular sections of the Abel Tasman, the Hooker Valley Track, or even Blue Pools. And from an international perspective, the numbers are hardly remarkable. Anyone who has walked in places like Zion, the Grand Canyon, or popular parts of the Swiss Alps probably won't need to have a tantrum. This is also a through walk, not a return trail, so you only ever contact a fraction of the other hikers on a given day.

People are friendly. Kind words are exchanged, someone offers water (why don't we offer brandy anymore!) to a stranger who has run out, and there's a humanity here, and everyone shares the same appreciation of this extraordinary place. You may find yourself walking alongside a stranger for 20 minutes, exchange emails, and suddenly have somewhere to stay when you are next in the Faroe Islands. Of course, you might run into the odd muppet or drone flyer that the rangers haven't neutralised yet, but that can happen anywhere. If solitude matters enormously to you, leave at noon, take a headlamp in case, (make sure your car is at the other end), and finish at 7 pm (tell the car park warden when you park so they won't worry).

Most people depart from the road end in that 7:00am–9:00am window, creating that pulse that gradually stretches out along the track into chattering clumps of happy hikers! Everyone is travelling in the same direction, so over six to eight hours you cross paths with only a fraction of the people walking that day.

Beyond the Crossing: The Tongariro Northern Circuit

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a 3-day loop walk around the northern half of the national park (not Ruapehu, the biggest volcano), with around two-thirds of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing being part of this multiday trail. But a 10-km section of trail connecting Whakapapa (traditional start or finish) with the first other road access (Mangatepopo) remains closed. The Tongariro Northern Circuit (as of 2026-2027) needs to be completed as a "C", not a loop trail. See FAQ below.

Why spend three days walking the Tongariro Northern Circuit instead of just hiking the Crossing?
You sleep on the mountain rather than just visiting it. Walking this magnificent 3-day section lets you experience Tongariro at a different pace. Walk in through the quieter, drier eastern side of the park where there's time to sit on a rock, look out across a landscape that has scarcely changed in human memory, and feel pleasantly insignificant for a while. There's no bus to catch and nothing much to do except just be there. Staying in the huts is social and relaxing, and as only about 40-50 people can stay in huts or camp, that's all you will see, even on the busiest days.

Walking the Northern Circuit
On our small-group 8-day Ultimate North Island adventure, we do this hike. We usually go anti-clockwise. The first day heads eastwards, gently up through open tussock lands and across the low saddle between Ruapehu and Ngāuruhoe to Waihohonu Hut, a DOC hut beside a stream and a grove of mountain beech forest. From there, a shorter day crosses ash-moraine ridges and stony desert, with a remote lake detour or the clear waters of Ohinepango Springs, before arriving at Oturere Hut on the edge of an old lava flow beneath Ngāuruhoe. On the third day you climb up to Red Crater and Emerald Lakes, joining the Alpine Crossing for its final spectacular push over Red Crater summit and covering what is the first half of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing (now in reverse).

With two unhurried days, your guide can share the geology, ecology, and cultural stories of a place with deep significance to Ngāti Tūwharetoa and Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro. It is a genuinely different way to experience one of New Zealand's most iconic landscapes, and for hikers with time, we think it's the better one.

Why We Recommend Going Guided (as we would!)

Leave the logistics to us. The Crossing is a point-to-point walk, so independent walkers' transport needs organising before you start. On a guided trip, the transport, accommodation, and other arrangements are already taken care of. You turn up with your boots and day pack and concentrate on the walking. There is also the question: is the weather safe enough today? Your guide will make that call.

Safety and experience. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing has the highest number of search and rescue callouts of any track in New Zealand. Underestimating the time required, insufficient fitness, and injuries all contribute. An experienced guide knows the terrain, watches the weather closely, and, perhaps most importantly, sets a pace appropriate to both the conditions and the people walking that day. Guided operators also work under different protocols when a Tongariro Alpine Crossing weather advisory is in place. Rather than automatically abandoning the mountain altogether, an experienced guide can assess the conditions on the ground and, where it is safe to do so, explore part of the route before turning back. A poor-weather day need not therefore mean no time on the mountain at all.

Someone who knows. There is considerably more to Tongariro than spectacular scenery. A good guide can read the landscape as you move through it, explaining the geology, ecology, cultural history, and stories that give the place context. Lava flows become eruptions rather than just black rock; steaming ground tells you something about what is still happening beneath your feet. There is also value in knowing when to stop and look, and when to keep moving. A guide who knows the Crossing knows which places deserve lingering over, when it's better to put your head down and stride, and occasionally, "There's a much more comfortable rock just around the corner!"

Good company. There's something rather nice about walking with a small group of people who have all chosen to spend their day doing the same hard thing. Conversations come and go along the track, people look out for one another, and reaching the high point together gives everyone the same buzz. There's something to be said for doing it alongside a small group of like-minded hikers: the shared sense of achievement at Red Crater, the conversation over dinner at Waihohonu Hut or back at the hotel if you are a day walker, and the friendships that tend to form on a multi-day trail stay with people long after the trip ends.

Getting Ready for the Day

Get fit for the distance, height gain, and rougher sections of walking. See our FAQs for more on fitness and what to carry, but good, comfortable boots matter. Hot feet = blisters. As Ange, our sales and customer service lead, discovered, getting your coffee-drinking and chocolate-eating skills up to scratch doesn't count as training, however tempting that is to believe. If you're walking the Crossing as part of a three-day trip, you'll need a higher level of fitness than for the day walk alone. You'll be carrying a pack and covering considerably more distance over consecutive days.

Bad weather advisories
DOC issues bad weather advisories for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, and shuttle companies cannot operate while one is in place. These are usually known by the evening before, giving walkers time to change their plans. Going beyond an advisory requires experience, equipment, and judgement. Take it seriously. It's there for a reason.

The terrain itself is seldom the greatest danger. An injury or navigational mistake can leave someone stationary in cold, wet, and wind. Hypothermia is the real danger. New Zealand alpine weather can deliver temperatures just above freezing with rain, sleet, and strong winds. Most skiers would rather stand around at minus 20°C in dry air than plus 5°C in driving rain. Cold and wet is a horrible combination.

Nature isn't your friend and it isn't your enemy. It simply gets on with being nature. The mountain will do today exactly what it was going to do whether you're on it or not. Your only choice is whether today is the right day to be there.

Can I walk in winter?
Winter isn't a calendar date; it's when conditions on the track move to snow and ice, either temporarily or for the winter months, usually from May or June through to early October. Slopes that are straightforward in summer can become steep snowfields or sheets of hard blue ice. At 39 degrees south, these volcanoes sit roughly at the latitude of Lisbon or Athens, so winter conditions can alternate repeatedly between freezing and thawing. Warm fronts melt the snow, which then refreezes to ice, more hazardous than fresh snow. Depending on the conditions, crampons, an ice axe, and occasionally a rope may be needed to travel safely. This is no longer a simple hiking track.
The good news is that winter on Tongariro can be spectacular. On the right day, with stable snow and good weather, it becomes one of New Zealand's great alpine experiences. Several local guiding companies operate winter trips, and we'd strongly recommend joining one if you want to experience the Crossing at this time of year. On a good day, it is arguably one of the best ways to walk the Crossing.

Quick Facts

1. Distance: 19.4 km

2. Highest point: Red Crater, 1,886 m

3. Walking time: Six to eight hours at a steady pace

4. Water: No drinking-water supply on the track or at either end

5. Rubbish: No rubbish bins. Take everything out with you.

6. Toilets: At the start and finish and roughly every couple of hours, except through the middle section, where there can be two to three hours between loos.

7. Drones and speakers: DOC prohibits drones and loudspeakers on the Crossing while people are walking. If you come across someone who seems unaware of that, feel free to educate them. We certainly do.

8. Mobile phone coverage: Coverage has improved remarkably since 2025. One NZ and Spark now provide good coverage through the starting valley and during the final hours of the walk, although you won't have reception everywhere. Older guidebooks and websites may say there's no reception at the Ketetahi end. That's no longer true (2026). But mobile coverage is only useful if you haven't dropped your phone in a stream, soaked it in the rain, or flattened the battery taking photos of Emerald Lakes.
   
   

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to book to do the Tongariro Crossing?
Yes. On the Department of Conservation website, they ask you to book. There's a simple form to fill out. If you Google DOC book the Tongariro Crossing and have the patience to click the same button a couple of times, you'll get here. At some point numbers per day will be limited, but currently (2026-2027) they're not.

Where is the best volcanic activity to view on the Crossing?
The most recent eruptions were at Te Māri in August and November 2012. Towards the end of the middle third of the trail, as you descend towards the old Ketetahi Hut site, look east and you can see the crater and the path of the pyroclastic flow heading down the valley. Steam vents are visible around Emerald Lakes, one noisy vent on the east side of the biggest lake, and on the summit of Red Crater (north end) you can scratch aside loose rock and feel warmth in the ground beneath (look for the white precipitate). In clear weather, you also see a steam vent near the northeastern summit of Ngāuruhoe. On warm days, steam vents are much less noticeable.

Is the Tongariro Alpine Crossing worth doing despite the crowds?
Yes. Around 100,000 people walk the Tongariro Alpine Crossing each summer season. That sounds like a lot, but more than 300,000 people climbed Angels Landing in Zion in 2019, while popular walks around Lac Blanc in Chamonix and Tre Cime in the Dolomites can see thousands of walkers on a busy day. By international standards, Tongariro really isn't unusually crowded. On a fine day, there can be a busy morning pulse, but people gradually spread out. If solitude matters, walking the Northern Circuit gives you more control over when you join the Crossing and lets you avoid the main flow of day walkers.

Do I need to go guided to walk the Tongariro Alpine Crossing?
No. Thousands of people walk the Crossing independently. A guide adds local knowledge, weather judgement, first aid and emergency support, and takes care of the transport logistics. For many people, the biggest benefit is simply having someone experienced making the decisions, leaving you to enjoy the walk.

Can I do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing as part of a multi-day hike?
Yes, and we think it's the best way to experience it. The Tongariro Northern Circuit approaches from the quieter eastern side of the park before joining the Crossing near Emerald Lakes. Our Ultimate North Island adventure does exactly this, while our Tongariro Hike and North Island Grand Hikes also include the Crossing as part of a longer itinerary.

Which direction should I walk the Crossing?
Almost everyone walks from Mangatepopo in the southwest to Ketetahi in the north. There's no rule saying you have to, but the shuttle system and national park protocols are set up around this direction. Mangatepopo also starts higher, so there's less climbing overall. With no visitor parking at the Mangatepopo road end and the shuttles expecting you to travel this way, there are plenty of good reasons not to fight the system.

What should I pack for the Crossing?
In summer, take a couple of litres of water (soda bottles work well as extras), a raincoat, warm thermal layers, sunblock, and a hat. Feel happy if most of the warm clothes and rain gear stay in your pack all day. But in this national park, the weather rarely reads the weather forecast.

What's at the track start and finish?
Both road ends have basic toilets. The Mangatepopo start also has a shelter, which is rather more architecturally splendid than it is practical for either rain or sun. At Ketetahi, there's a much more effective shelter from both, along with basic toilets.

The walking track finishes at the shuttle bus park, not the private car park. There's an annoying one-kilometre walk down a dusty gravel road. It's a slightly tragic way to finish the best one-day hike in the country. DOC has built a small footpath, unfortunately on the sunny rather than the shady side of the road. You can sweat and then get covered in dust on the right day.

Where do I park or how does the shuttle work?
It's about a 30-minute drive to the start or finish from the closest accommodations, and as almost everyone walks in the same direction, shuttle operators will pick you up from your accommodation, drop you at the start, then collect you at the finish. Most offer alternative pickup times.
If you have a vehicle, you can park at one of the two private car parks at the finish point (look online for Ketetahi park or park and ride) and take their bus to the start. That removes any pressure to exit the trail by a particular time. Most accommodation providers have a preferred shuttle operator. If you're booking independently, ask your accommodation who normally services them and just use that company. It keeps the logistics pleasantly simple. So don't sweat it. These are mostly small, independent mum-and-dad shuttle companies, run by kind, helpful people who want your business. Don't overthink the logistics. It will work itself out when you're closer.

What happens if I book a shuttle but have to turn around? How do I get back to my accommodation?
Shuttle operators are used to people who have to turn back because of illness, injury, or weather. With OK mobile reception at the road ends, it's generally straightforward, but make sure you know your shuttle company's instructions and conditions for this situation before you set off (and if you can call their free phone or use WhatsApp, etc.). If you return to Mangatepopo way early, there's a public hut about half an hour up the track which is a more comfortable place to stooge. (The hut is marked as no day walkers, but if you're limping back because of illness, injury, or some other genuine problem, just hang there.)

I've missed my shuttle from the end. What happens now?
Get in touch with your shuttle operator ASAP. You're going to know you are late ages before you're late, so give them some advance notice. Often, they'll wait a bit. The important thing is to keep your shuttle operator informed.

Was there a major fire in 2025 that closed the trail?
Yes, and some non-Tongariro Alpine Crossing sections are still closed (2026-2027). A scrub and grassland fire (3,000 ha) near the Mangatepopo road end in Nov 2025 briefly affected access to the Alpine Crossing but did close the 10 km Northern Circuit link trail (between Whakapapa and Mangatepopo). Affectionately known to locals as 'the Ditch', this section is sometimes skipped (if you have another way of reaching Mangatepopo road end). The Ditch is still closed (as of spring 2026), and DOC says it will be closed at least till mid-2027. This makes the Tongariro Northern Circuit an "open-jaw" or "C" shape for the next season (or two?). This does not affect the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. See this updates page.

Can I walk the Crossing alone?
It's not advised, but on a fine summer day you're unlikely to be alone. Plenty of people walk the Crossing by themselves, and there will usually be other hikers around. If you do go solo, start reasonably early, carry a working mobile phone capable of calling 111, and don't be afraid to ask other hikers for help. People are remarkably willing to look after one another on the trail. In poor weather, it's a different proposition. Setting out alone in bad conditions would, in my view, be nuts.

Do I really need hiking boots, or are running shoes okay?
Boots versus shoes can be surprisingly polarising. Running shoes are workable in summer if you don't mind some occasional misery: wet feet through puddles, stones getting into your shoes on the scree, and less grip on the firmer scree sections. Trail-running shoes or boots are much better suited to the terrain. For avoiding a rolled ankle, the width and stability of the heel platform can matter more than how high the footwear comes up your ankle, in my experience. If there's snow, wear boots. You may need to kick steps, and running shoes simply aren't up to it. Boots also provide better protection if a loose rock rolls onto the exposed and rather fragile top of your foot. This can happen here.

Words by Mo, HikingNZ

Erica Sheen - Marketing and Administration Support

Tell us about your hometown?

I’m from Dumaguete City, a small coastal city in the Philippines that sits between the sea and the mountains. It’s known for being a university town, so there’s always a good mix of students, locals, travellers, and people who came for a short visit and somehow never left. It’s a pretty laid-back place, and I think that’s what I love most about it. Life moves a little slower here, people know each other, food is a big part of every gathering, and there’s always someone telling you to eat more even when you’re already full.

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

I’m usually looking for my next excuse to go somewhere. I love travelling, trying new restaurants and cafés, listening to music, taking photos, and spending time with my family and friends. I’m also very easily convinced to go on a spontaneous road trip, although I will probably spend the entire drive deciding where we should eat. I’m also a big believer in doing absolutely nothing sometimes. Give me a comfortable bed, good music, a good show, and nowhere I need to be, and I’m perfectly happy.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

This might be a bit of a cheat, but sleep. I know it’s not exactly something you can put in your backpack, but I’ve learned the hard way that it is probably the most important thing I can bring with me. I once went hiking with about two hours of sleep thinking I could just push through it. Turns out my body had other plans, and I ended up collapsing halfway through the hike. Not my proudest hiking moment, but definitely a memorable lesson! So these days, I’ll happily sacrifice a little preparation or a few extra things in my bag for a proper night’s sleep.

How do you stay motivated on a long day on the trail?

I break it down into little milestones. I don't like thinking, “We still have six hours to go.” That sounds terrible. Instead, I think, “Let's get to that viewpoint.” Then, “Let's get to lunch.” Then, “Let's make it to the next section.” And snacks definitely help.

But I also find that the people you're hiking with make a huge difference. A long day feels much shorter when you're sharing stories, laughing, taking ridiculous photos, or collectively wondering why you agreed to walk up that particular hill.

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

Puto with tsokolate and peanut butter, for sure! The infamous 10-5-5 painitan combo of Dumaguete. Puto is a steamed sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf, similar to the sticky rice in Thailand’s mango sticky rice, but ours is best paired with hot cocoa and peanut butter. On an extremely tiring day, maybe a side of pancit with lime, too. It’s definitely on the heavier side for a trail snack, but we Filipinos really do love our rice!

As a guide, what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Learn to be comfortable being uncomfortable. You might get rained on, your legs might hurt, the weather might change, and the climb might be longer than you expected. That’s all part of it. You don't have to love every single minute of a hike to have an amazing experience overall.

What's one place you haven't hiked yet but would love to explore?

Honestly, New Zealand. I’m from the Philippines, and I’m still hoping and praying that my first international trip will be to New Zealand.  Coming from the Philippines, I'm used to tropical landscapes, warm weather, lush greenery, beaches, and mountains that feel very alive and dense. So I’m fascinated by the idea of being somewhere with huge alpine landscapes, colder air, open valleys, and mountains that look almost unreal.

Funny enough, working with New Zealand hiking trips and constantly looking at the trails, mountains, lakes, and landscapes through videos has made me realise just how incredible the country is. So I’m really hoping that one day, I’ll go from “I’ve seen this trail on my screen a hundred times” to “I’m actually standing here.” And that would be pretty special.

Rick - Guide

Tell us about your Hometown

I hail from Whangarei, a small northern beach city and spent my hoilidays split between sport, frollicking in the sea and being a nuisance on relatives’ farms. It was a priveleged (typically NZ) upbringing in terms of access to the outdoors. Indeed being in the house was anathema except for dinner, which was generally hoovered down to minimise indoor time.

What do you do when you are not working or hiking?

I still frollick in the ocean during the summer months but much of my downtime is spent reading anything non-fiction and planning or executing an overseas trip.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

I swear by the plastic poncho. An item that weights less than a whisper yet keeps you bone dry, provided you leave your vanity at home, they are far from elegant. This leaves room in my pack for the other essential hiking accoutrement the coffee plunger. That said a thin sock is the thinking hiker’s filter.

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

Fresh mountain water. Honestly. That and red wine which, in judicous quantities, can elevate a mountain sunset to spiritual level.

Do you have a favourite hike in New Zealand?

Always a dilemma divulging secrets but there is a stretch of ancient bush track in the North Island’s Whirinaki hike that is like no other I can find in the World. I could easily spend a week in one spot just staring at the gigantic trees, listening to the peace and drinking in the lush air.

Ali Holley - Guide

Tell us about your hometown

My original home town is London, but I soon realised the lack of mountains was a problem. So, after lots of exploring around the world, my new home town is Christchurch.  It's great for its access to lots of wild spaces in all directions.

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

When not outdoors, I teach first aid courses (often with an outdoor theme), foster kittens and dogs with my family, and we love to cook, so I'm always finding new recipes to try.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

I can't go without my lip balm; chapped lips are a nightmare.  Mine has SPF, so if I've forgotten my sunscreen, I'll smash it all over my face. This has happened on more than one occasion!

Can you share a memorable encounter with wildlife during a hike?

I've had so many great encounters with Kea, New Zealand's cheekiest alpine parrot.  One stole my glove at the top of a mountain on a big snow day and dropped it off the edge of a cliff, never to be seen again! I had to spend the rest of the day with my hand shoved under my armpit.

As a guide, what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Take your time. NZ has wonders both big and small. Just keep looking around, and you'll be amazed at what you see.

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

Pic's peanut butter slugs, if you know, you know!

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

Stewart Island / Rakiura is the place I really want to explore next.  

Alana Torrie - Tour and Marketing Coordinator

Tell us about your hometown

I grew up in a small coastal town called Mangawhai, or lovingly known as 'Magical Mangawhai' by the thousands of city dwellers who filled our streets and beaches over the holiday period. Mangawhai is located in the North of the North Island of New Zealand, and I was blessed to grow up with the ocean as my backyard.

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

Give me a sunny day, and I'll spend the morning working away in the vegetable garden, followed by a bike, run, walk, or surf, and the cherry on top would be finishing the day with a relaxed dinner with friends. On a rainy day, you'll find me having a coffee date with a pal, followed by a gym session, and a chill afternoon of reading, baking, or crafts.

Can you share a memorable encounter with wildlife during a hike?

For me, there will always be something special about the way the Piwakawaka (Fantail) flit around hikers on the trails. They oooze joy and happiness, and without getting too woo-woo, I always feel like they are good omens, guiding the way and reminding me of the joy of life. I spoke about the effect this bird has on me to a group I was guiding, and it was cool to see this rub off on them too as they smiled and pointed out the Piwakawaka for the rest of our trip. 

What's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

I am known in the office to have this snack on my desk, so it's definitely not reserved for the trail.. SCROGGIN! Known more commonly as trail mix to North Americans, but to us Kiwis it stands for Seeds, Chocolate, Raisins and Other Goody Goodies Including Nuts - or something like that! Yes, I like it because it's a healthy snack, but you best believe I am always picking out the chocolate to enjoy first!

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

The list is long and unspecific... I'd love to hike in Switzerland, Slovenia, Peru, Morocco, and Norway!