Te Reo Māori, or, the Māori language is a beautiful, expressive language, with a rich, complex and difficult history. I, Anna, am wahine Māori and like many kiwis, on my own journey of learning Te Reo Māori.  When coming to Aotearoa New Zealand, learning about and even using Te Reo will greatly enrich your experience. 

A brief history

Te Reo is a Polynesian language, similar to some other languages of the Pacific Islands but like all languages, it has its own nuances and dialects between iwi (tribes).

Many early European settlers, mainly whalers, sealers, missionaries and traders learned Te Reo to be able to communicate with the local people. Māori was not a written language prior to the arrival of English speakers. The first Māori dictionary was published in 1844 and written Māori became important as Europeans attempted to buy land, or introduce religious texts in the native language.

Until around the 1900s, Te Reo was the most commonly spoken language in small communities, but with pressure to speak and use English, two world wars and urbanisation, use of Te Reo Māori rapidly declined. By the 1960s, only a small percentage of the population spoke fluent Te Reo Māori.

Despite so much pressure to adopt English as the sole language of this nation, Te Reo Māori was not lost and the right to speak Te Reo was hard fought. In 1987, Te Reo Māori was recognised as an official language of this country, and is now becoming more frequently used and encouraged in schools (with a number of full integration Kura, or schools around the country), homes, news broadcasts and in everyday life. Te Reo Māori is a taonga, a treasure, and something to celebrate.
See source information here

Want to visit the world’s longest place name?

Sure! You’ll want to go to Taumatawhakatangi­hangakoauauotamatea­turipukakapikimaunga­horonukupokaiwhen­uakitanatahu. Counted that? It’s 92 letters long…named for a hill near Pōrangahau, Hawke’s Bay in the North Island and translating roughly as "The summit where Tamatea, the man with the big knees, the slider, climber of mountains, the land-swallower who travelled about, played his kōauau (flute) to his loved one." For brevity, the hill is colloquially called “Taumata.”

The power of Te Ao Māori

Nothing will give you goosebumps, and make your hair stand up like seeing a haka, hapahaka, or hearing a haunting waiata (song). If you’ve ever watched and All Blacks match, or even a grassroots rugby game, you’ll know that a game is started with a haka from the team, as a challenge to the opposing side. It is a signal of pride, unity and strength, and it's absolutely electric. 

Experiencing Māori culture and language is an integral part of any experience when coming to Aotearoa New Zealand. Many of our tours include a cultural experience, but when you look around, Māori language and culture is entrenched in many parts of our society.

We celebrate Te Reo annually with Te Wiki o Te Reo Māori – Māori Language Week, where the language is celebrated and embraced, with people perhaps learning a new word, phrase, saying or song. During Te Wiki o Te Reo Māori, my children asked me, “What’s your favourite Māori word mum?” “Easy, it’s aroha”, I quickly replied, Aroha means love. My daughter thought for a moment, and said “mine’s Whanau” (family). 

How do I pronounce Māori words?

Learning how to pronounce Māori words is a sign of respect. It’s okay if it takes more than one try; what counts is that you’re giving it a go. The Māori language consists of five vowel sounds:

a (‘a’ as in ‘are’)
e (‘e’ as in ‘eat’)
i (‘i’ like the ‘ee’ in ‘tree’)
o (‘o’ as in ‘four’)
u (‘u’ like an ‘o’ in ‘to’)

Vowels can be long or short. A long vowel is signified with a macron above it. For example:

a, (short vowel) papa (earth)
ā, (long vowel) pāpā (father)

There are eight consonants in Māori, similar to those in English — h, k, m, n, p, r, t, and w. There are also two different consonants; ‘wh’ and ‘ng’. The ‘wh’ sound similar to the English ‘f’. The ‘ng’ is similar to the ‘ng’ sound in English words like ‘sing’, except that in Māori, words can start with ‘ng’.

Let’s start with the basics:

• Kia ora - Hello
• Nau mai, haere mai - Welcome!
• Kei te pēhea koe? - How are you?
• Kei te pai - Good, or Tino pai - Really good
• Ka kite anō - See you later

Whakatauki, wisdom in Māori culture

Māori culture uses whakatauki, or proverbs to express wisdom, guidance and insight within Māori culture (like the one at the start of this blog). You may even recognise some of them, evidence that wisdom is universal… Here are a few of my favourites:

• Ahakoa he iti he pounamu - Although it is small it is a treasure (a saying I use of my children, but also refers to pounamu, a stone treasured in Māori culture, is often small but precious).
• He rau ringa e oti ai - many hands make light work
• He waka eke noa - we’re all in the same boat

Enrich Your Journey Through Language and Culture

When you learn Māori words, you're doing more than speaking a new language, you’re honouring a culture, showing respect, and deepening your connection to this extraordinary place. When you come hiking with us in Aotearoa, you won't just walk the land, you'll listen to its stories, hear (and maybe speak) its language, and celebrate its people.

Ake ake ake - a forever language, Te Reo Māori

Words by Anna Morris

Tell us about your hometown

I grew up in sunny Nelson which is at the top of the South Island. I’m super proud of my hometown, it attracts a lot of artists and green-minded people so it has a fun and creative vibe about it. Nelson is surrounded by three national parks - Nelson Lakes, Abel Tasman and Kahurangi National Park so there is easy accessibility to the outdoors. You’ve got the best of the beaches, mountains and lakes all on your door step. 

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

I love getting out and exploring on my sea kayak, I quite often go out on the water by myself and feel at complete ease and in the flow. I love how dynamic sea kayaking can be, there can be a massive swell or it can be glassy flat. The adventuring and exploring aspect appeals to me, not knowing what's around the corner or what beautiful scenery or wildlife you will encounter. I especially love multi-day trips where you can pack lots of luxuries inside of your kayak to have with you. Of course it’s ideal to be able to jump in and cool off in the ocean when you feel like it too. 

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

I love my Nalgene drink bottle, it’s ideal to whip off my pack and fill up in a river and also doubles up as a hot water bottle at night if you’re hiking in cooler conditions. 

Sharing a laugh is such a benefit of group travel – tell us about one of your funny moments on a trip

I had a group of clients staying at Aoraki Mt Cook, and in the morning they said they had a funny story for me. At midnight, one of my clients heard rustling in a bag and thought their roommate was having a midnight snack, however this roommate was sound asleep. My client turned on the light and was greeted by a stunned possum! She screamed her head off, jumped on the bed. The ladies managed to shoo the possum back out of the window where it subsequently ran into the next room of two of my guests through the balcony door, causing more shrieks and screams. It then went into one more room and ran off with one of my client’s ear drops, what a menace! My clients thought it was hilarious and a great story to tell. Please note that this has never happened before on any of my trips (or any that I have heard about) - this was clearly an opportunist possum on a mission! 

How do you stay motivated on a long day on the trail?

I think positive self-talk is key - telling yourself that you're doing well, there’s not too much longer, or how good it will feel when you arrive at your destination and can relax. If I’m with friends, I enjoy chatting or playing games to keep a little distracted. If I’m by myself, occasionally I put on some tunes in my headphones which I really enjoy. I can’t forget chocolate as well - that fixes everything! 

Learn from My Mistakes

Forgetting sunscreen, not reapplying often enough, or ignoring cloudy skies, I’ve done it all. The worst? A lunchtime snooze in the sun after an early start. Imagine reaching the summit after hours on the trail, only to spend the next few days dealing with painful sunburn. The burning, peeling, and blisters can ruin your hiking experience, especially on multi-day trips.

From short walks to multi-day treks, time outdoors quickly adds up. It’s easy to get caught up in the scenery and forget the sun’s strength, but prolonged exposure without protection increases your risk of sunburn, premature aging, and skin damage. A broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) guards against both UVA and UVB rays, keeping your skin healthy and protected throughout the day.

Serious UV, Serious Consequences

New Zealand experiences some of the strongest UV rays in the world. Its proximity to the seasonally ozone-depleted air from Antarctica and its clear, clean atmosphere mean the sun’s rays are more direct and intense than in many other countries, even in winter.

UV rays easily penetrate cloud cover, and high-altitude terrain only increases their strength. That’s why sunscreen is vital for protecting your skin year-round, whether you feel the sun’s warmth or not.

Unfortunately, this means that New Zealanders experience some of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world, largely due to the high UV exposure. Using sunscreen regularly helps prevent damage that can lead to skin cancer over time. Applying sunblock is a simple, proactive way to protect your health.

Stay Comfortable and Enjoy the Journey

No one wants to be distracted by a painful, red face while trying to enjoy a spectacular view or tackle a tough section of trail. Making sunscreen part of your routine, like tying your boots or packing water, ensures you can focus on the adventure instead of the aftermath.

Don’t stop at sunscreen; there is more than one way to protect your skin from the sun. Follow the famous mnemonic in New Zealand, taught to kiwis from a young age:

• Slip on clothing that covers your skin, or find shade when you can.
• Slop on sunscreen (SPF 30+).
• Slap on a hat to protect your face, head, neck, and ears.
• Wrap on sunglasses with UV protection.

Hiking in New Zealand is an incredible experience; wild, scenic, and full of adventure. A little preparation goes a long way. Pack your sunscreen, use it often, and explore with confidence knowing your skin is protected every step of the way.

Words by Anna Morris

Tell us about your hometown

I was born in the deep, deep south between a farm and small city, Invercargill. Te Anau would typically be the closest you’d get to my hometown, which is really for the best because you're in constant danger of catching the local hair-affecting plague, otherwise known as the mullet. While the city itself might not be much to write home about, other than the local Tuatara (aka 3-eyed native dinosaurs!) the surrounds are pretty unreal, with Fiordland National Park to the west and the Catlins to the East, it's lush, wild and sparsely populated, all with epic wildlife a stone's-throw-away (penguins, seals, sealions, birds, dolphins, sharks and so much more)!

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

I'm often laughed at by friends and whānau (family) because I finish work, and then I go hike some more! Aside from this, I'm a baby-mountain biker (scary!) and love to get out rock-climbing when I can. I'm guardian of one of my nieces, and friends and whānau are pretty central to my down time.

As a guide, what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Trust your feet! We don't have any scaries in Aotearoa bush so you can focus on just trusting your body - our feet tend to find the way when we let them! 

How do you prepare for a multi-day hike?

I was introduced to hiking with the motto "there's not much you can't do without" and it's proven true so far! 

...Don't worry, there's very thorough lists and processes for our guided trips!

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

Garlic bread and chocolate (these are also key bribes should you ever need inspiration).

Sharing a laugh is such a benefit of group travel – share with us one of your funny moments on a trip?

I often spend most of the trip laughing so it's incredibly difficult to pick one moment. That said, I'm a firm believer that farts are ALWAYS funny... 

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

Dusky Track. Down in Fiordland, it's lovingly known by many as the hardest track in the country, it's wild, rough and rugged (I've heard stories of folks taking refuge up trees from rising rivers) and sounds like a heck of an adventure one day! 

It was a bit of a “soggy” afternoon in Fiordland. I have had a few of those during my visits here over the last 25 years, but as this region usually gets between 7 and 8 meters of rain a year - that’s right, meters, you always come prepared! I was on the Lake Marian track where the cloud and mist had allowed us a few quick peeks at the sheer rock walls surrounding the lake, giving some sort of perspective on the place. The lake was glassy, calm and serene, as a procession of hikers arrived at the lake, some adequately, and some woefully clad. Some lingered for a while and were rewarded, like us, with glimpses of the surrounding grandeur, others too impatient or too sodden and miserable merely had a quick look and turned around again.

While wandering back down the track, three or four rifleman (Tītitipounamu) were flitting around us. I always enjoy watching them, they are tiny, graceful and easy to miss if you are in a hurry, they always remind me to be “in the moment” and relish this time in the wilderness. As well as the rifleman encounter, the wind was picking up and making the ancient old forest groan and creak as it shifted back and forth in time with the breeze. Down in the valley Marian Creek was rumbling away as it made its hasty descent from the lake to the Hollyford River, crashing over giant moss covered boulders, I pondered that the term “white water” could have been created here, as the sheer violence of the water forcing its way through this wilderness of forest greens and ancient granites left in its wake an iridescent white glow. 

However, it wasn’t the distinctive zip, zip call of the rifleman, or the crashing boulders that next grabbed my attention. At first I couldn’t place it, yet it was so familiar. It was growing louder and more alarming by the second and my brain still couldn’t seem to register what the hell it was. Then with crushing recognition I realised it was music, dance music, presumably blue-toothing from an iPhone to a portable speaker, technology which I often embrace myself, albeit in different surroundings. The sound was distorted as they had the volume right up - rivers tumbling over boulders, wind whistling in the trees and birds singing, I guess made it hard to hear the ‘music’. I stepped to the side of the track and just hoped that they would pass by soon. Eventually they emerged - a gaggle of foreign girls clad in jeans and sneakers and sodden sweatshirts with the offending speaker swinging off a backpack. I debated on whether I should say something or not but worried I was just turning into a grumpy old man and I should just celebrate the fact that these girls had dragged themselves out of their car to spend a couple of hours walking in the Fiordland wilderness on a wet afternoon. The girl with the speaker attempted to turn it down when she saw this “grumpy-looking old man” perched on a rock glaring at her, but in her distracted state she unknowingly lead her gaggle off track down a dry creek bed instead of along the trail. I yelled out and pointed them in the right direction. They nodded their thanks, cranked the volume back up and scampered off, and peace returned to my Fiordland Kingdom. 

The music incident got me thinking about something else that I notice more and more on my recent hikes, and that is toilet and tissue paper often in the middle of the track or just to the side of the track. I am going to come straight out and blame the girls for this. When nature calls it’s pretty obvious that a lot of you girls are just dropping your trousers in the middle of the track and instead of going for the ‘drip dry’ technique a tissue is used and left as a reminder to all those that follow that you had a pee there and were too lazy to either:

a) put your tissue in a plastic bag and carry it out as rubbish.  
b) Get off the track and bury your tissue under some leaves and branches so it can break down out of sight.

 
“Leave no trace” is a simple concept, and should not need much explanation but it is always good to remind ourselves from time to time. Follow the link to learn about the 7 principles of Leave no Trace from the Department of Conservation. 

Of course if you have taken the time to read this you are probably not an offender, rather a sympathiser who has had a similar experience. As it's always harder to change the habits of others rather than our own, it may be a case of having to lead by example and pick up the offending tissues. Sounds a bit gross but I’m sure those dog poo bags that councils give out would be perfect. Hopefully the offenders may feel guilty enough to change their ways when they see their peers picking up after them?

As our planet gets more crowded and lives get busier, the pressure on our wilderness areas become greater, and more than ever we are going to need wilderness to bring balance to our lives, remind us of our place in the world, and enjoy some natural quiet. No matter how much you enjoy your music or how badly you need to pee, we all need to be mindful of how our actions and behaviour will impact on the next visitors to these special places.

Don’t get me started on drones. 

Words by Dan Murphy

Tell us about your hometown

I grew up in Ōtautahi, Christchurch, and, although I've lived in other parts of Aotearoa New Zealand, I've come back to make this my permanent home. I have the Port Hills on my back doorstep, with ample running, walking and mountain biking trails on them. It is such a great position to be able to access multiple outdoor opportunities, with the ocean, rivers, forests and mountains all nearby

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

When I'm not working, I am often hiking, usually solo trips as I feel more connected to nature when I'm on my own. I also do some trail running and enjoy getting out on my mountain bike. I like to head overseas for adventure travel, having just returned from two and a half months in Europe. Books are my one addiction in life and I usually have one or more on the go at a time. I also do a bit of painting from time to time. I recently bought my first home, so pottering around my garden is another pleasure. And, when I'm home I cherish my quality time with my amazing cat, Token, who I've had since he was 3 weeks old and is now 19 years old.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

If I'm carrying my pack or on steep terrain, I like to use a hiking pole, or two. I find some of our trails are not wide enough for two, or that you may need a free hand to grab a rock or tree along the way. However, a pole is great for keeping balance on technical terrain, checking the depth of mud, crossing rivers, and of course taking some of the load off your knees, amongst other things.

Can you share a memorable encounter with wildlife during a hike?

I was guiding a trip on the West Coast of the South Island and we were down on the beach below the Truman Track doing a short day hike. There was a noisy, distressed oystercatcher, Torea pango, flying around and walking to and from the crashing waves. West Coast beaches are wild and rough, not for swimming. As I got closer I noticed three tiny chicks in the surf. They would try to climb their way up the pebble beach as the waves retreated only to be demolished by the next incoming wave and dragged back down. The chicks were clearly tiring and losing the fight. I quickly pulled my shoes and socks off and ran to the water to scoop up the chicks, one at a time, and deposit them each safely well above the high-tide mark. All while being circled and abused by the parent. At least my group gave me a round of applause.

How do you prepare for a multi-day hike?

I have an equipment list I go through to make sure I have everything I need. If I try to do it by memory there is often something I forget. I lay it all out to make sure I have all I need. Fitness-wise, I like to keep as fit as I can because I know I will enjoy myself more and hurt less if I do.

Sharing a laugh is such a benefit of group travel – share with us one of your funny moments on a trip?

We'd stopped at a pie shop that had a sign outside saying 'Kiwi pies'. One lady from the group went up to the counter and asked for a kiwi pie. The lady behind the counter looked at her funny and said, "We don't have kiwi pies". The lady from the group persisted, stating that the sign outside said 'Kiwi pies'. The lady behind the counter looked a little angry and told her, "We don't eat kiwi here, they're endangered". To which the lady from the group replied, "What, the fruit?". She also happened to be a vegetarian, which made it doubly amusing, as she had hoped for a fruit pie, not a meat pie, hence why we call them kiwifruit in New Zealand.

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

I have visited Rakiura/Stewart Island twice now but only explored around Halfmoon Bay and Ulva Island. I would love to do a big multi-day hike down there one day and see more of the rugged, barely touched terrain.

Temperature Ratings Explained

Comfort Rating - Indicates the temperature at which cold sleepers/women typically might feel comfortable.

Lower Limit Rating - Indicates the temperature at which warm sleepers/men typically might still feel comfortable.

Temperature Ratings are measured in lab simulations of how a sleeping bag should be used, with a sleeping pad placed under the bag and the occupant wearing base layers. This protocol doesn't account for variations in people's sleeping pad and clothing, body types (warm and cold sleepers), weather conditions, the food people eat and more. So, consider them indicative only. Comparing temperature ratings within a single brand is usually more meaningful than comparing across brands, since the variables used in testing can vary.

Down vs synthetic - the trade-offs

Down gives you warmth for weight like nothing else. It’s super compressible, long-lasting, and packs down small - ideal when you’re trying to shave grams and space. It does cost more, requires more care, and some people prefer to avoid animal products, which is where synthetic comes in. Synthetic fill is cheaper, hypoallergenic, and a solid choice although it’ll be bulkier for the same warmth and less durable.

Down but not out - are down sleeping bags suitable for wet conditions?

Short answer: yes. Long answer: still yes, if you know what you're doing.

The idea that down is “the worst” insulation in damp conditions? Seems to be a myth that won’t die. Never mind that ducks and geese spend their lives floating on cold lakes and waddling through snow and sleeping rough. Apparently, the same feathers that keep them warm and dry work after all with no special coatings. Go figure. 

Don’t believe me? Someone's already done the work, knows the science, has real backcountry mileage, tested it, filmed it, and posted the results on YouTube. Does it look like a pleasant experience? Maybe not. Warm? Yes. At this point I bow out – here’s the link. Enjoy!

Where your down comes from

If you're considering a down-filled sleeping bag, it’s worth asking where the feathers came from. Not all down is created equal, some is a grim by-product of live-plucking and force-feeding.

The good news is many reputable outdoor brands now use ethically sourced down certified by third-party standards. Look for Responsible Down Standard (RDS) or Global Traceable Down Standard (Global TDS) certified bags. Obviously, synthetic (plastic!) fill dodges the animal ethics question entirely.

Which sleeping bags do hiking guides use? 

Looking at my bag choice over the years, they have all been down filled, and mummy shaped with a hood giving optimum warmth for their weight. They have had a short, long and now back to a short zip. In a 3 or 4 season bag, a long zip gives greater versatility for summer and indoor use for the ventilation it offers and being able to open it out into a quilt, although it does add grams. There has been a trend toward lighter weight and more compressible bags in my choice. Some of this has been attributable to advances in materials but mostly to my desire to be more minimalist.

As a guide there is a bit of stuff that I have to carry and can’t skimp on, so it made sense to me to reduce the weight and packed size of my personal gear including my sleeping bag to keep my pack weight and volume manageable. For overnight hikes to the locations we visit in spring through autumn I have found my latest choice up to the task.  While I have come to consider my sleeping bag as something to compliment my clothing system to keep me warm, I have rarely needed to wear more than a thermal layer, socks and a beanie. I am a warm sleeper though, add a silk liner, and another trick is that I don’t go to bed hungry!

So, to my choice of a Sea to Summit Spark SP2 which weighs under 500g and has a truly tiny packed size. It has a temperature rating described as 4°C comfort rating woman / -2°C lower comfort rating for men, which you should find adequate for our trips. I find the mummy shape quite narrow and constricting and would prefer something wider in the foot and a long zip but at the expense of added weight. So many trade-offs!

For comparison, we have the Macpac Escapade 350 for hire with the same temperature rating. It has a roomier shape and a full length side zip and foot zip that weighs just under 1kg and has a proportional packed size.

Still have unanswered questions?

Here are a few of many “artisanal” brands that make some of the best technical bags on the market. Peruse their websites, fall down a few rabbit holes, and you’ll come out the other side either enlightened or totally overwhelmed. Either way, I’m sure you’ll learn something from the experts.

·      Western Mountaineering – USA

·      Feathered Friends – USA

·      Valandre – France

·      Mountain Equipment – UK

·      PHD – UK

Words by Mo (and Louis)

Tell us about your hometown

I live in Napier, a pleasant small city known for its wine, sunshine, Art Deco architecture, and earthquakes. It experienced New Zealand's biggest natural disaster in the 1930s and was largely rebuilt in the architectural style of that era.

What do you do when you’re not working or hiking?

I do conservation labouring for a small Māori (indigenous people of New Zealand) run organisation. 

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

My pack.

Can you share a memorable encounter with wildlife during a hike?

I once came across a pandemonium of kākā (surely the best collective noun for these intelligent parrots) being hunted by a native falcon. I could hear them communicating with each other and see them working together to organise a coordinated defence.

As a guide, what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Because we are in the Southern Hemisphere you have to start with the opposite foot that you use when you are in the north. And be prepared for the weather to change - not always for the worse.

How do you stay motivated on a long day on the trail?

Generally, the most relaxing part of guiding is when you are on the trail, I don't need any motivation

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

I'm more of the eat to live, than a live to eat kind of guy. Food is good, I'm not too worried about what it is.

Sharing a laugh is such a benefit of group travel – share with us one of your funny moments on a trip?

It’s all pretty humorous and light-hearted. We’re guides, not drill sergeants. Everyone’s there because they want to enjoy the scenery, well, except for those who were brought along by their partner… though they often end up having the best time!

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

When I hear clients’ stories of where they have been they often sound pretty incredible, it's pretty hard to pick a favourite. Normally it's the last tale I've heard.

Listen to the kiwi while you read! 

What is a kiwi?

The kiwi is a strange wee bird. Flightless, half-blind, and nocturnal it spends most of its life snuffling about in the dark for worms and insects, guided by nostrils set near the tip of its long, flexible beak. Which, by the odd rules of beak measurement (typically nostril-to-beak), means the kiwi technically has the shortest beak of any bird. A mighty 3mm.

It gets weirder. The kiwi lays an egg so big it defies biology, six times the size of a chicken’s, from an animal about the same size. That’s one of the largest egg-to-body ratios of any bird on the planet. One of these behemoths take about 30 days to develop. It’s then stashed in a burrow, dug like a badger’s (naturally), where the male will  incubate it for 75-90 days.

For all these quirks, and despite the constant threat posed by introduced predators over the last 800 years or so, five species of kiwi have been surviving in our forests for millions of years. We’re fiercely proud of our stoic little bird down here in Aotearoa. So proud, in fact, we call ourselves Kiwis.

And yet, most of us haven’t seen one in the wild. Not even the born-and-bred.

Why is it so hard to see a kiwi?

Our shaggy emblem is nocturnal, shy, and superbly camouflaged. I’ve spent hours following the distinctive “Creeee”  by red head-torch light, and only once has that led to a sighting. A good litmus test of their knack for remaining hidden.

Stealth isn’t the whole story.  Blame the usual suspects: habitat loss, off-leash dogs, prowling cats, and a rogue’s’ gallery of introduced mammalian predators. Stoats, especially, are public enemy number one. Per the Department of Conservation (DOC) only 10% of unmanaged kiwi chicks live to see six months. Stoats account for half those deaths.

The future

The good news? Decades of concerted conservation efforts are paying off. In many predator-controlled areas, kiwi numbers are slowly climbing, and their shrill call is increasingly heard echoing eerily through bush.

So, if you’re hoping for an encounter, your best bet is to visit a sanctuary or conservation centre. Luckily, there are some excellent options near places where our travellers often have free time on their Hiking New Zealand trips: Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown.

Places to see kiwi

Tāmaki Makaurau / Auckland:

Jump on a ferry to Tiritiri Matangi or Rotoroa, predator-free islands in the beautiful Hauraki Gulf. Both sanctuaries abound with birdlife, including North Island brown kiwi (Rotoroa) and little spotted kiwi (Tiritiri Matangi) going about their business after dark.

Overnight in the lighthouse keepers’ quarters on Tiritiri Matangi, or in one of Rotoroa’s fabulous little cottages and you might spot one nosing through the leaf litter on a nighttime wander. Local guides and rangers can give you tips to boost your chances. Be sure to bring a red-light torch and book ahead. These places are special, and the beds fill fast.

If time’s tight, Auckland Zoo’s Te Pō (The Night) is a nocturnal house home to North Island brown kiwi. It’s about as close as you’ll get to the real thing without leaving town. The program contributes to conservation efforts as part of kiwi recovery tool Operation Nest Egg (O.N.E). Check out this fantastic initiative here.

Te Whanganui-a-Tara / Wellington:

Your best shot in the capital is Zealandia, a mainland ‘island’ sanctuary with an impressive predator-proof fence and a 500-year vision to restore the valley’s ecosystem to a pre-human state. Visiting is like going back in time. More than 200 kiwi live in the sanctuary, and guided dusk/night tours have an 80% chance of sightings. Book far in advance, seriously!

Watch This Space:

Not far from Zealandia, the Capital Kiwi Project has brought kiwi back to a Wellington hinterland that hasn’t known their presence for decades. One of the nation’s standout conservation successes, the 24,000-hectare protected area has seen chicks hatch and grow in the wild - the first time this has happened in the Wellington region in 150 years. Couple this with the remarkable urban conservation efforts of Predator Free Wellington, and the possibility of a future where kiwi roam suburban streets and gardens begins to feel not so farfetched.

Ōtautahi / Christchurch:

Not far from Christchurch Airport, you can visit Willowbank Wildlife Reserve, where you can view kiwi in a purpose-built nocturnal house.  Willowbank plays a key role in Operation Nest Egg. They incubatedeggs for four separate kiwi species and have successfully re-introduced 600 kiwi back into the wild.

Tahuna / Queenstown:

Head for the Kiwi Park in central Queenstown. Their purpose-built nocturnal house is home to several southern brown kiwi, and the entry fee supports active conservation projects across Otago and Southland. Tours run daily with knowledgeable keepers who are more than happy to share the latest on wild populations.

Where can I see kiwi on the trail?

A visit to Rakiura, Stewart Island is perhaps the best opportunity most people will have to see a kiwi when hiking in New Zealand. The Stewart Island kiwi, or tokoeka in Māori, are unique as they’re sometimes active in daylight and often seen by hikers! It is estimated that about a third of New Zealand's kiwi live on Stewart Island, making it one of the best places to see the birds in the wild.

Words by Louis Davidson

Tell us about your hometown

My hometown is Oamaru, a small town in the South Island famous for limestone buildings, blue penguins and Steampunk!

What do you do when you're not hiking or working?

When I'm not in the outdoors hiking or guiding, I love running to keep fit particularly on the trails. I'm also fond of consuming any content about history or politics.

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore? 

I've had a couple of trips to Mt Earnslaw aborted due to weather so still haven't managed to do it, but would love to.  

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

My favourite trail snack is a packet of gingernuts.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail? 

I love my add on water bottle holder which attaches to the front of my hiking pack.  This holds my water bottle/flask for easy access to drink or fill.

As a guide, what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?  

The weather in New Zealand is very changeable, so be prepared for any conditions, including snow in summer in some locations.