The Tongariro Alpine Crossing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Yes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing deserves its 'must do' reputation. It's like hiking a miniature piece of Bolivia's volcanic Altiplano: brilliant charcoals, ochre reds, immense skies pierced by volcanoes, absurdly coloured lakes, and the realisation that the earth is breathing and heaving beneath your feet. It's totally worth the hype!

Curiously, many New Zealanders are dismissive of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing because, on a fine day, there are occasionally crowds of a thousand or more on the track. But that's a strong Kiwi view of what makes a hike enjoyable. Anyone who's spent time in the national parks of North America, Europe, Wales, or places like Table Mountain in Cape Town is familiar with these sorts of numbers.

Some advice: don't rush it, especially if your car's parked conveniently at the end. Meeting a shuttle? Use the track times to work out roughly when you need to reach the car park, then once at the summit spin your day out accordingly – unless sitting in a dusty car park waiting for a shuttle appeals. The trail is a much nicer place to waste time.

We also hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing as the finale of our multi-day hike across the Tongariro Northern Circuit, on our small-group trips, and it's a completely different experience. Spend two quiet days on the Northern Circuit exploring the mountain's wilder eastern flanks before emerging blinking onto the Crossing at Emerald Lakes, giving you the best of both worlds. Remote and astonishing, and then walk 'backwards' out to Mangatepopo road end!

What to Expect on the Walk, a description of the track

The set direction is from Mangatepopo road end in the west, at 1,120 metres, through the South Crater between Mounts Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro, climbing to the high point on the lip of Red Crater, and then down down down past the old Ketetahi Hut site to the bush and the road end at 760 metres. This direction means less climbing than walking it the other way. Have a look at the Mountain Safety Council YouTube for timings, hazards, weather, and gear.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is challenging, but not quite in the way people imagine. Only about a third of the day involves the rough volcanic terrain that many imagine when they think of the Crossing. There is remarkably little wasted climbing on the Crossing. Almost every metre you climb buys you altitude, rather than losing it again around the next corner. It is challenging on several levels: the distance, the exposure to the elements, the altitude gain, and a long descent that tests different muscles. This descent has a faintly Sisyphean quality too; progress underfoot with no apparent nearing to the car park – especially those infuriating zigzags!

The best way to describe this walk is the rule of thirds.

The first third steadily ambles up a broad valley on a well-formed track to the base of a significant steep climb up the headwall known as the Devil's Staircase (90 min). This steep but well-engineered trail with plenty of stairs eventually sidles across to the edge of the dead flat South Crater (45 min). Underfoot there are some slabs of stone made into steps, a little bit of rocky stuff, but generally very well-formed, especially in the valley. Quite a few people walking this easy valley section are simply doing the return walk to Soda Springs, so the first bit of this one-third can be a little busier here later in the mornings.

The middle third is the truly spectacular alpine section. The trail surface varies from dead-flat across clay pans (South Crater) to sidles beneath crags on skatey, slippery clay to sections of deep loose scree (both climbing and descending Red Crater lip). From Emerald Lakes the track is generally well formed again, despite still being high and exposed in the alpine zone. From the Blue Lake toilets, the generously graded track descends, passing the odd washout and damage from winter avalanches. It plugs on towards the old Ketetahi Hut site in a succession of infamous zigzags; some so horizontal that you begin to wonder whether someone lost the plot in a white-out when they built it.

Hikers string out more on this middle section so it's not as crowded, even on those big days. But on a no-wind day at Emerald Lakes people rightfully linger. A picnic at Emerald Lakes? Think Central Park, but with volcanoes.

The final third from the old hut site is an exceptionally well-made trail. Ironically, although it's the easiest section technically, the hard, compacted surface and thousands of step-downs are tiring. I sometimes take (mountain) running shoes for this section. Steady but mostly not steep through waving tussock lands, then after about forever, a short sharp descent over the toe of an ancient lava flow and into the welcome shade of the forest, 15 min of steepness and back to gentler trail to the end.

Scenery That Lives Up to the Reputation

It's easy to get a bit giddy about the scenery concentrated in that middle third. Not that the first third isn't spectacular too, but the middle is the secret sauce: a volcanic moonscape of contorted lava flows and ash fields, Red Crater, those ridiculously coloured Emerald Lakes suddenly appearing. Lava valleys, scarlet moonscapes, steaming craters make it feel wonderfully otherworldly, and starkly different from almost any other hiking in New Zealand. It is easy to see why it is considered the best one-day walk in the country. And why it's rightfully a bit busy.

There is also more mana to the place than the scenery alone suggests. Tongariro is New Zealand's oldest national park (tuku and intended partnership from local Māori with the Crown in 1887), and the fourth oldest in the world. In 1993 it became a UNESCO mixed cultural and natural World Heritage Site, recognition that this is a remarkable landscape in more ways than one. BTW if you are wondering where that famous photograph of the Emerald Lakes is taken from, it's a few metres into the descent (just after the high point at Red Crater), at around the halfway point of the Crossing. It really is quite the spot. The ochre-red scree slope makes the descent look rather more intimidating than it is, but take your time and choose your footing.

A Word on the Mountain's Significance

Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro hold deep cultural significance to Ngāti Tūwharetoa and Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro, who consider the peaks to be ancestors. Since 2017, DOC has removed trail markers on the routes to the summits and worked with local iwi to discourage visitors from climbing them, a request worth respecting. Local iwi have asked visitors to refrain from referring to Ngāuruhoe by its film name, Mt Doom. None of this changes how the Crossing itself is walked, but it adds a layer of meaning to this wonderful place.

How Busy Does It Get?

I've been guiding here for the last 30 years and walking it for 20 before that (that's a little confronting). It is busier now than in the early 2000s. Other than the first fine weather day after a week of grimness, the usual busy periods are Easter and the Christmas to early New Year period when we Kiwis are all on holiday. On these occasions, get ready for a long line, especially for the first hour or so.

New Zealanders can be quick to dismiss the Tongariro Crossing because on those days it can feel really busy. Personally, I think that's a bit unfair as the rest of the time I don't find it markedly busier than popular sections of the Abel Tasman, the Hooker Valley Track, or even Blue Pools. And from an international perspective, the numbers are hardly remarkable. Anyone who has walked in places like Zion, the Grand Canyon, or popular parts of the Swiss Alps probably won't need to have a tantrum. This is also a through walk, not a return trail, so you only ever contact a fraction of the other hikers on a given day.

People are friendly. Kind words are exchanged, someone offers water (why don't we offer brandy anymore!) to a stranger who has run out, and there's a humanity here, and everyone shares the same appreciation of this extraordinary place. You may find yourself walking alongside a stranger for 20 minutes, exchange emails, and suddenly have somewhere to stay when you are next in the Faroe Islands. Of course, you might run into the odd muppet or drone flyer that the rangers haven't neutralised yet, but that can happen anywhere. If solitude matters enormously to you, leave at noon, take a headlamp in case, (make sure your car is at the other end), and finish at 7 pm (tell the car park warden when you park so they won't worry).

Most people depart from the road end in that 7:00am–9:00am window, creating that pulse that gradually stretches out along the track into chattering clumps of happy hikers! Everyone is travelling in the same direction, so over six to eight hours you cross paths with only a fraction of the people walking that day.

Beyond the Crossing: The Tongariro Northern Circuit

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a 3-day loop walk around the northern half of the national park (not Ruapehu, the biggest volcano), with around two-thirds of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing being part of this multiday trail. But a 10-km section of trail connecting Whakapapa (traditional start or finish) with the first other road access (Mangatepopo) remains closed. The Tongariro Northern Circuit (as of 2026-2027) needs to be completed as a "C", not a loop trail. See FAQ below.

Why spend three days walking the Tongariro Northern Circuit instead of just hiking the Crossing?
You sleep on the mountain rather than just visiting it. Walking this magnificent 3-day section lets you experience Tongariro at a different pace. Walk in through the quieter, drier eastern side of the park where there's time to sit on a rock, look out across a landscape that has scarcely changed in human memory, and feel pleasantly insignificant for a while. There's no bus to catch and nothing much to do except just be there. Staying in the huts is social and relaxing, and as only about 40-50 people can stay in huts or camp, that's all you will see, even on the busiest days.

Walking the Northern Circuit
On our small-group 8-day Ultimate North Island adventure, we do this hike. We usually go anti-clockwise. The first day heads eastwards, gently up through open tussock lands and across the low saddle between Ruapehu and Ngāuruhoe to Waihohonu Hut, a DOC hut beside a stream and a grove of mountain beech forest. From there, a shorter day crosses ash-moraine ridges and stony desert, with a remote lake detour or the clear waters of Ohinepango Springs, before arriving at Oturere Hut on the edge of an old lava flow beneath Ngāuruhoe. On the third day you climb up to Red Crater and Emerald Lakes, joining the Alpine Crossing for its final spectacular push over Red Crater summit and covering what is the first half of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing (now in reverse).

With two unhurried days, your guide can share the geology, ecology, and cultural stories of a place with deep significance to Ngāti Tūwharetoa and Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro. It is a genuinely different way to experience one of New Zealand's most iconic landscapes, and for hikers with time, we think it's the better one.

Why We Recommend Going Guided (as we would!)

Leave the logistics to us. The Crossing is a point-to-point walk, so independent walkers' transport needs organising before you start. On a guided trip, the transport, accommodation, and other arrangements are already taken care of. You turn up with your boots and day pack and concentrate on the walking. There is also the question: is the weather safe enough today? Your guide will make that call.

Safety and experience. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing has the highest number of search and rescue callouts of any track in New Zealand. Underestimating the time required, insufficient fitness, and injuries all contribute. An experienced guide knows the terrain, watches the weather closely, and, perhaps most importantly, sets a pace appropriate to both the conditions and the people walking that day. Guided operators also work under different protocols when a Tongariro Alpine Crossing weather advisory is in place. Rather than automatically abandoning the mountain altogether, an experienced guide can assess the conditions on the ground and, where it is safe to do so, explore part of the route before turning back. A poor-weather day need not therefore mean no time on the mountain at all.

Someone who knows. There is considerably more to Tongariro than spectacular scenery. A good guide can read the landscape as you move through it, explaining the geology, ecology, cultural history, and stories that give the place context. Lava flows become eruptions rather than just black rock; steaming ground tells you something about what is still happening beneath your feet. There is also value in knowing when to stop and look, and when to keep moving. A guide who knows the Crossing knows which places deserve lingering over, when it's better to put your head down and stride, and occasionally, "There's a much more comfortable rock just around the corner!"

Good company. There's something rather nice about walking with a small group of people who have all chosen to spend their day doing the same hard thing. Conversations come and go along the track, people look out for one another, and reaching the high point together gives everyone the same buzz. There's something to be said for doing it alongside a small group of like-minded hikers: the shared sense of achievement at Red Crater, the conversation over dinner at Waihohonu Hut or back at the hotel if you are a day walker, and the friendships that tend to form on a multi-day trail stay with people long after the trip ends.

Getting Ready for the Day

Get fit for the distance, height gain, and rougher sections of walking. See our FAQs for more on fitness and what to carry, but good, comfortable boots matter. Hot feet = blisters. As Ange, our sales and customer service lead, discovered, getting your coffee-drinking and chocolate-eating skills up to scratch doesn't count as training, however tempting that is to believe. If you're walking the Crossing as part of a three-day trip, you'll need a higher level of fitness than for the day walk alone. You'll be carrying a pack and covering considerably more distance over consecutive days.

Bad weather advisories
DOC issues bad weather advisories for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, and shuttle companies cannot operate while one is in place. These are usually known by the evening before, giving walkers time to change their plans. Going beyond an advisory requires experience, equipment, and judgement. Take it seriously. It's there for a reason.

The terrain itself is seldom the greatest danger. An injury or navigational mistake can leave someone stationary in cold, wet, and wind. Hypothermia is the real danger. New Zealand alpine weather can deliver temperatures just above freezing with rain, sleet, and strong winds. Most skiers would rather stand around at minus 20°C in dry air than plus 5°C in driving rain. Cold and wet is a horrible combination.

Nature isn't your friend and it isn't your enemy. It simply gets on with being nature. The mountain will do today exactly what it was going to do whether you're on it or not. Your only choice is whether today is the right day to be there.

Can I walk in winter?
Winter isn't a calendar date; it's when conditions on the track move to snow and ice, either temporarily or for the winter months, usually from May or June through to early October. Slopes that are straightforward in summer can become steep snowfields or sheets of hard blue ice. At 39 degrees south, these volcanoes sit roughly at the latitude of Lisbon or Athens, so winter conditions can alternate repeatedly between freezing and thawing. Warm fronts melt the snow, which then refreezes to ice, more hazardous than fresh snow. Depending on the conditions, crampons, an ice axe, and occasionally a rope may be needed to travel safely. This is no longer a simple hiking track.
The good news is that winter on Tongariro can be spectacular. On the right day, with stable snow and good weather, it becomes one of New Zealand's great alpine experiences. Several local guiding companies operate winter trips, and we'd strongly recommend joining one if you want to experience the Crossing at this time of year. On a good day, it is arguably one of the best ways to walk the Crossing.

Quick Facts

1. Distance: 19.4 km

2. Highest point: Red Crater, 1,886 m

3. Walking time: Six to eight hours at a steady pace

4. Water: No drinking-water supply on the track or at either end

5. Rubbish: No rubbish bins. Take everything out with you.

6. Toilets: At the start and finish and roughly every couple of hours, except through the middle section, where there can be two to three hours between loos.

7. Drones and speakers: DOC prohibits drones and loudspeakers on the Crossing while people are walking. If you come across someone who seems unaware of that, feel free to educate them. We certainly do.

8. Mobile phone coverage: Coverage has improved remarkably since 2025. One NZ and Spark now provide good coverage through the starting valley and during the final hours of the walk, although you won't have reception everywhere. Older guidebooks and websites may say there's no reception at the Ketetahi end. That's no longer true (2026). But mobile coverage is only useful if you haven't dropped your phone in a stream, soaked it in the rain, or flattened the battery taking photos of Emerald Lakes.
   
   

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to book to do the Tongariro Crossing?
Yes. On the Department of Conservation website, they ask you to book. There's a simple form to fill out. If you Google DOC book the Tongariro Crossing and have the patience to click the same button a couple of times, you'll get here. At some point numbers per day will be limited, but currently (2026-2027) they're not.

Where is the best volcanic activity to view on the Crossing?
The most recent eruptions were at Te Māri in August and November 2012. Towards the end of the middle third of the trail, as you descend towards the old Ketetahi Hut site, look east and you can see the crater and the path of the pyroclastic flow heading down the valley. Steam vents are visible around Emerald Lakes, one noisy vent on the east side of the biggest lake, and on the summit of Red Crater (north end) you can scratch aside loose rock and feel warmth in the ground beneath (look for the white precipitate). In clear weather, you also see a steam vent near the northeastern summit of Ngāuruhoe. On warm days, steam vents are much less noticeable.

Is the Tongariro Alpine Crossing worth doing despite the crowds?
Yes. Around 100,000 people walk the Tongariro Alpine Crossing each summer season. That sounds like a lot, but more than 300,000 people climbed Angels Landing in Zion in 2019, while popular walks around Lac Blanc in Chamonix and Tre Cime in the Dolomites can see thousands of walkers on a busy day. By international standards, Tongariro really isn't unusually crowded. On a fine day, there can be a busy morning pulse, but people gradually spread out. If solitude matters, walking the Northern Circuit gives you more control over when you join the Crossing and lets you avoid the main flow of day walkers.

Do I need to go guided to walk the Tongariro Alpine Crossing?
No. Thousands of people walk the Crossing independently. A guide adds local knowledge, weather judgement, first aid and emergency support, and takes care of the transport logistics. For many people, the biggest benefit is simply having someone experienced making the decisions, leaving you to enjoy the walk.

Can I do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing as part of a multi-day hike?
Yes, and we think it's the best way to experience it. The Tongariro Northern Circuit approaches from the quieter eastern side of the park before joining the Crossing near Emerald Lakes. Our Ultimate North Island adventure does exactly this, while our Tongariro Hike and North Island Grand Hikes also include the Crossing as part of a longer itinerary.

Which direction should I walk the Crossing?
Almost everyone walks from Mangatepopo in the southwest to Ketetahi in the north. There's no rule saying you have to, but the shuttle system and national park protocols are set up around this direction. Mangatepopo also starts higher, so there's less climbing overall. With no visitor parking at the Mangatepopo road end and the shuttles expecting you to travel this way, there are plenty of good reasons not to fight the system.

What should I pack for the Crossing?
In summer, take a couple of litres of water (soda bottles work well as extras), a raincoat, warm thermal layers, sunblock, and a hat. Feel happy if most of the warm clothes and rain gear stay in your pack all day. But in this national park, the weather rarely reads the weather forecast.

What's at the track start and finish?
Both road ends have basic toilets. The Mangatepopo start also has a shelter, which is rather more architecturally splendid than it is practical for either rain or sun. At Ketetahi, there's a much more effective shelter from both, along with basic toilets.

The walking track finishes at the shuttle bus park, not the private car park. There's an annoying one-kilometre walk down a dusty gravel road. It's a slightly tragic way to finish the best one-day hike in the country. DOC has built a small footpath, unfortunately on the sunny rather than the shady side of the road. You can sweat and then get covered in dust on the right day.

Where do I park or how does the shuttle work?
It's about a 30-minute drive to the start or finish from the closest accommodations, and as almost everyone walks in the same direction, shuttle operators will pick you up from your accommodation, drop you at the start, then collect you at the finish. Most offer alternative pickup times.
If you have a vehicle, you can park at one of the two private car parks at the finish point (look online for Ketetahi park or park and ride) and take their bus to the start. That removes any pressure to exit the trail by a particular time. Most accommodation providers have a preferred shuttle operator. If you're booking independently, ask your accommodation who normally services them and just use that company. It keeps the logistics pleasantly simple. So don't sweat it. These are mostly small, independent mum-and-dad shuttle companies, run by kind, helpful people who want your business. Don't overthink the logistics. It will work itself out when you're closer.

What happens if I book a shuttle but have to turn around? How do I get back to my accommodation?
Shuttle operators are used to people who have to turn back because of illness, injury, or weather. With OK mobile reception at the road ends, it's generally straightforward, but make sure you know your shuttle company's instructions and conditions for this situation before you set off (and if you can call their free phone or use WhatsApp, etc.). If you return to Mangatepopo way early, there's a public hut about half an hour up the track which is a more comfortable place to stooge. (The hut is marked as no day walkers, but if you're limping back because of illness, injury, or some other genuine problem, just hang there.)

I've missed my shuttle from the end. What happens now?
Get in touch with your shuttle operator ASAP. You're going to know you are late ages before you're late, so give them some advance notice. Often, they'll wait a bit. The important thing is to keep your shuttle operator informed.

Was there a major fire in 2025 that closed the trail?
Yes, and some non-Tongariro Alpine Crossing sections are still closed (2026-2027). A scrub and grassland fire (3,000 ha) near the Mangatepopo road end in Nov 2025 briefly affected access to the Alpine Crossing but did close the 10 km Northern Circuit link trail (between Whakapapa and Mangatepopo). Affectionately known to locals as 'the Ditch', this section is sometimes skipped (if you have another way of reaching Mangatepopo road end). The Ditch is still closed (as of spring 2026), and DOC says it will be closed at least till mid-2027. This makes the Tongariro Northern Circuit an "open-jaw" or "C" shape for the next season (or two?). This does not affect the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. See this updates page.

Can I walk the Crossing alone?
It's not advised, but on a fine summer day you're unlikely to be alone. Plenty of people walk the Crossing by themselves, and there will usually be other hikers around. If you do go solo, start reasonably early, carry a working mobile phone capable of calling 111, and don't be afraid to ask other hikers for help. People are remarkably willing to look after one another on the trail. In poor weather, it's a different proposition. Setting out alone in bad conditions would, in my view, be nuts.

Do I really need hiking boots, or are running shoes okay?
Boots versus shoes can be surprisingly polarising. Running shoes are workable in summer if you don't mind some occasional misery: wet feet through puddles, stones getting into your shoes on the scree, and less grip on the firmer scree sections. Trail-running shoes or boots are much better suited to the terrain. For avoiding a rolled ankle, the width and stability of the heel platform can matter more than how high the footwear comes up your ankle, in my experience. If there's snow, wear boots. You may need to kick steps, and running shoes simply aren't up to it. Boots also provide better protection if a loose rock rolls onto the exposed and rather fragile top of your foot. This can happen here.

Words by Mo, HikingNZ

Erica Sheen - Marketing and Administration Support

Tell us about your hometown?

I’m from Dumaguete City, a small coastal city in the Philippines that sits between the sea and the mountains. It’s known for being a university town, so there’s always a good mix of students, locals, travellers, and people who came for a short visit and somehow never left. It’s a pretty laid-back place, and I think that’s what I love most about it. Life moves a little slower here, people know each other, food is a big part of every gathering, and there’s always someone telling you to eat more even when you’re already full.

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

I’m usually looking for my next excuse to go somewhere. I love travelling, trying new restaurants and cafés, listening to music, taking photos, and spending time with my family and friends. I’m also very easily convinced to go on a spontaneous road trip, although I will probably spend the entire drive deciding where we should eat. I’m also a big believer in doing absolutely nothing sometimes. Give me a comfortable bed, good music, a good show, and nowhere I need to be, and I’m perfectly happy.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

This might be a bit of a cheat, but sleep. I know it’s not exactly something you can put in your backpack, but I’ve learned the hard way that it is probably the most important thing I can bring with me. I once went hiking with about two hours of sleep thinking I could just push through it. Turns out my body had other plans, and I ended up collapsing halfway through the hike. Not my proudest hiking moment, but definitely a memorable lesson! So these days, I’ll happily sacrifice a little preparation or a few extra things in my bag for a proper night’s sleep.

How do you stay motivated on a long day on the trail?

I break it down into little milestones. I don't like thinking, “We still have six hours to go.” That sounds terrible. Instead, I think, “Let's get to that viewpoint.” Then, “Let's get to lunch.” Then, “Let's make it to the next section.” And snacks definitely help.

But I also find that the people you're hiking with make a huge difference. A long day feels much shorter when you're sharing stories, laughing, taking ridiculous photos, or collectively wondering why you agreed to walk up that particular hill.

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

Puto with tsokolate and peanut butter, for sure! The infamous 10-5-5 painitan combo of Dumaguete. Puto is a steamed sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf, similar to the sticky rice in Thailand’s mango sticky rice, but ours is best paired with hot cocoa and peanut butter. On an extremely tiring day, maybe a side of pancit with lime, too. It’s definitely on the heavier side for a trail snack, but we Filipinos really do love our rice!

As a guide, what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Learn to be comfortable being uncomfortable. You might get rained on, your legs might hurt, the weather might change, and the climb might be longer than you expected. That’s all part of it. You don't have to love every single minute of a hike to have an amazing experience overall.

What's one place you haven't hiked yet but would love to explore?

Honestly, New Zealand. I’m from the Philippines, and I’m still hoping and praying that my first international trip will be to New Zealand.  Coming from the Philippines, I'm used to tropical landscapes, warm weather, lush greenery, beaches, and mountains that feel very alive and dense. So I’m fascinated by the idea of being somewhere with huge alpine landscapes, colder air, open valleys, and mountains that look almost unreal.

Funny enough, working with New Zealand hiking trips and constantly looking at the trails, mountains, lakes, and landscapes through videos has made me realise just how incredible the country is. So I’m really hoping that one day, I’ll go from “I’ve seen this trail on my screen a hundred times” to “I’m actually standing here.” And that would be pretty special.

Rick - Guide

Tell us about your Hometown

I hail from Whangarei, a small northern beach city and spent my hoilidays split between sport, frollicking in the sea and being a nuisance on relatives’ farms. It was a priveleged (typically NZ) upbringing in terms of access to the outdoors. Indeed being in the house was anathema except for dinner, which was generally hoovered down to minimise indoor time.

What do you do when you are not working or hiking?

I still frollick in the ocean during the summer months but much of my downtime is spent reading anything non-fiction and planning or executing an overseas trip.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

I swear by the plastic poncho. An item that weights less than a whisper yet keeps you bone dry, provided you leave your vanity at home, they are far from elegant. This leaves room in my pack for the other essential hiking accoutrement the coffee plunger. That said a thin sock is the thinking hiker’s filter.

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

Fresh mountain water. Honestly. That and red wine which, in judicous quantities, can elevate a mountain sunset to spiritual level.

Do you have a favourite hike in New Zealand?

Always a dilemma divulging secrets but there is a stretch of ancient bush track in the North Island’s Whirinaki hike that is like no other I can find in the World. I could easily spend a week in one spot just staring at the gigantic trees, listening to the peace and drinking in the lush air.

Ali Holley - Guide

Tell us about your hometown

My original home town is London, but I soon realised the lack of mountains was a problem. So, after lots of exploring around the world, my new home town is Christchurch.  It's great for its access to lots of wild spaces in all directions.

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

When not outdoors, I teach first aid courses (often with an outdoor theme), foster kittens and dogs with my family, and we love to cook, so I'm always finding new recipes to try.

What piece of gear can you not live without on the trail?

I can't go without my lip balm; chapped lips are a nightmare.  Mine has SPF, so if I've forgotten my sunscreen, I'll smash it all over my face. This has happened on more than one occasion!

Can you share a memorable encounter with wildlife during a hike?

I've had so many great encounters with Kea, New Zealand's cheekiest alpine parrot.  One stole my glove at the top of a mountain on a big snow day and dropped it off the edge of a cliff, never to be seen again! I had to spend the rest of the day with my hand shoved under my armpit.

As a guide, what's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Take your time. NZ has wonders both big and small. Just keep looking around, and you'll be amazed at what you see.

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

Pic's peanut butter slugs, if you know, you know!

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

Stewart Island / Rakiura is the place I really want to explore next.  

Alana Torrie - Tour and Marketing Coordinator

Tell us about your hometown

I grew up in a small coastal town called Mangawhai, or lovingly known as 'Magical Mangawhai' by the thousands of city dwellers who filled our streets and beaches over the holiday period. Mangawhai is located in the North of the North Island of New Zealand, and I was blessed to grow up with the ocean as my backyard.

What do you do when you're not working or hiking?

Give me a sunny day, and I'll spend the morning working away in the vegetable garden, followed by a bike, run, walk, or surf, and the cherry on top would be finishing the day with a relaxed dinner with friends. On a rainy day, you'll find me having a coffee date with a pal, followed by a gym session, and a chill afternoon of reading, baking, or crafts.

Can you share a memorable encounter with wildlife during a hike?

For me, there will always be something special about the way the Piwakawaka (Fantail) flit around hikers on the trails. They oooze joy and happiness, and without getting too woo-woo, I always feel like they are good omens, guiding the way and reminding me of the joy of life. I spoke about the effect this bird has on me to a group I was guiding, and it was cool to see this rub off on them too as they smiled and pointed out the Piwakawaka for the rest of our trip. 

What's your top tip for someone new to hiking in New Zealand?

Do you have a favourite trail snack or meal?

I am known in the office to have this snack on my desk, so it's definitely not reserved for the trail.. SCROGGIN! Known more commonly as trail mix to North Americans, but to us Kiwis it stands for Seeds, Chocolate, Raisins and Other Goody Goodies Including Nuts - or something like that! Yes, I like it because it's a healthy snack, but you best believe I am always picking out the chocolate to enjoy first!

What’s one place you haven’t hiked yet but would love to explore?

The list is long and unspecific... I'd love to hike in Switzerland, Slovenia, Peru, Morocco, and Norway!

Check Out the City Centre

More than a decade on from the earthquakes, Christchurch has truly come into its own. It is still humbling to walk the streets of the central city and see the odd remnant of those years, but there is far more here to enjoy than to mourn, and the rebuilt city has a creativity and warmth all its own.

The Botanic Gardens

Take a stroll through Hagley Park and the Botanic Gardens, open daily from 7am, with closing time shifting through the year from around 6.30pm in the cooler months to as late as 9pm in summer. Immerse yourself in more than 20 hectares of sculptures, flowers and native trees hidden in the middle of town. While you are there, take in the rare philodendrons and other indoor plants at Cunningham House, and if you would like to learn more about the gardens, one of the walking or shuttle tours is a lovely way to see the space.

Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna Waiwhetū

Head to the magnificent Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetū and marvel at the work of Kiwi and international artists. The gallery is known for its striking wave-like glass facade, its name gifted by Ngāi Tūāhuriri in reference to the artesian spring beneath the building. In the aftermath of the 2011 earthquake the gallery became the headquarters for the city’s Civil Defence and recovery operations, and it did not reopen to the public until December 2015, following extensive strengthening work. Since then it has welcomed millions of visitors, and entry remains free, with a cafe and gift shop on site for a rainy afternoon.

Te Matatiki Toi Ora The Arts Centre

Holds a special place in my heart, as my first job as a tour guide. Just across the street from the Art Gallery, the Arts Centre occupies the beautiful Gothic Revival stone buildings that once housed Canterbury College, the city’s first university, where a young Ernest Rutherford carried out his earliest experiments. Badly damaged in the 2011 earthquake, the precinct has been carefully restored building by building over more than a decade and today holds boutique shops, galleries, artist studios and places to eat, along with the Rutherford’s Den exhibition on the site’s scientific history. A weekend market brings the quadrangles to life, and it remains one of the loveliest places in the city simply to wander.

Canterbury Museum Pop-Up

If you love museums and want to learn more about the history of the area, the Canterbury Museum is well worth a visit, although not in its usual home. The much-loved Rolleston Avenue building closed in 2023 for a major redevelopment, a project expected to run for several years and reshape the museum for the next hundred. While the main site is rebuilt, the museum has opened a pop-up space in the CoCA building at 66 Gloucester Street, right in the central city. About half of the space is given over to highlights and favourites from the permanent collection, and the other half hosts changing temporary exhibitions, so it is well worth a look even if you visited the museum before it closed. Entry is free, with donations welcomed.

Isaac Theatre Royal

A short walk from the Art Gallery, the Isaac Theatre Royal is New Zealand’s only remaining working Edwardian theatre, first built in 1908 and beautifully restored after earthquake damage. The auditorium and ornate foyer, with their original chandelier and gold detailing, host everything from touring musicals and ballet to concerts and comedy throughout the year. If a show does not fit your itinerary, a guided tour through the foyer gives a good sense of the building’s history and its place in Christchurch’s performing arts scene.

The Court Theatre

Just around the corner, the Court Theatre reopened in a brand new, purpose-built home on the corner of Colombo and Gloucester Streets in May 2025, having spent the fourteen years since the earthquakes in temporary premises. New Zealand’s largest producing theatre company, the Court stages everything from original New Zealand works to major musicals and its long-running Court Jesters improvised comedy, and the new building brings a bar and casual dining space back to the heart of the Performing Arts Precinct.

Places to Eat

Christchurch’s dining scene has come a long way since the earthquakes, and the central city now has plenty of good options within easy walking distance of the Arts Centre and Art Gallery. Riverside Market, mentioned further below, doubles as one of the best lunch stops in town, with local producers and eateries under one roof by the Ōtākaro (Avon River). Oxford Terrace, known locally as The Strip, runs alongside the river and holds one of the highest concentrations of restaurants and bars in the city, good for everything from a casual bite to a proper night out. For something more relaxed, Little High Eatery on St Asaph Street is a food hall bringing together a range of local vendors under one roof, and New Regent Street, with its pastel heritage buildings, is a lovely spot for a coffee or lunch between sightseeing.

Greater Christchurch Area

Hot Pools by the Sea

Warm up after a beach walk with a seaside soak at He Puna Taimoana in New Brighton. The pools are open 10am to 7.30pm, seven days, with a late night on Fridays, and casual sessions are easy to drop into. It is hard to think of anything better after a big day of exploring what Christchurch has to offer, so check current pricing and session times on the He Puna Taimoana website before you go.

New Brighton Pier

Before or after the hot pools, take a stroll along the beach and pier in New Brighton. It is also great for a sundown walk, when the light installations along the pier come into their own. Once you are there, check out the small beach town shops surrounding the pier area. On a sunny day it might just feel like a summer holiday.

Visit Sumner

Sumner is a cosy wee suburb with plenty to do. A lovely spot for a paddle or swim in the Pacific Ocean, walk the beach to Cave Rock, search for seals at White Wash Head, have a coffee at Niche, and be sure to visit the brilliant L’Estrange Art Gallery.

Visit Quail Island

To pay a visit to Christchurch’s very own island escape, board a ferry at Lyttelton Harbour. Canterbury’s largest island was formerly used as a migrant quarantine station, as well as during past influenza and leprosy outbreaks. You can easily explore the island in a half day or a full day, with a scenic circuit walkway and a swimming beach for cooling off along the way.

Go to a Market

After the earthquakes, pop-up markets started blossoming across Christchurch, and several have become weekend institutions. The Christchurch Farmers’ Market at Riccarton House and the Lyttelton Farmers Market on Saturday mornings are both worth a visit, the latter especially good for a browse of local produce and a bite to eat. In the central city, Riverside Market is a great all-weather option, open seven days a week and bringing together local producers, eateries and bars on the banks of the Avon River.

Grab a Coffee

Christchurch is overflowing with good coffee. Some of our favourite spots to find the best coffee in Christchurch are C1 Espresso, Child Sister, Tom’s, Francis Nation and Embassy Coffee. Further afield, Niche Coffee and Eatery in Sumner has made Sumner a coffee destination, and Lyttelton Coffee Company in Lyttelton has done much the same for the wee harbour town.

Christchurch Gondola

Ride the gondola and take in panoramic views of the city, Lyttelton Harbour and the Southern Alps, and save your energy by skipping the climb to access heaps of walking tracks atop the Port Hills. With deals for families and children, this is a must-do when visiting Christchurch.

Take a Hike

There is something for everyone here, from easy one-hour walks to moderate hikes and challenging tramping tracks. The region around Christchurch has it all.

Bridle Path

The historic first connection between Lyttelton Harbour, Mount Herbert and Christchurch, this three kilometre trek will take about one and a half to two hours and reward you with stunning summit views over Christchurch and Lyttelton. Encounter informative historic signposts, as well as the Pioneer Women’s Memorial, as you make your way up the steep path.

When I stand on the summit, I always think of the people who immigrated to New Zealand in the mid-1800s and walked the Bridle Path to their new home. An absolute slog in crinolines, stiff clothing and all their belongings, on legs that likely hadn't walked more than a boat length in many weeks. They would have stood at the top, looking out over the Southern Alps, which are a magical sight, but goodness, the prospect of settling in Christchurch must have been awful - at that time, almost all of Christchurch and the wider region was little more than a vast swamp. Christchurch is a lovely city now - there's still swamp, but you won't be needing to battle through it, we have paving. 

Godley Head to Taylor’s Mistake Walkway

This hike follows the coastline from Taylor’s Mistake Beach. It is a well surfaced track that takes about three hours for the round trip of seven kilometres. Enjoy views of Lyttelton Harbour and the north face of Banks Peninsula, and as an add-on, discover the World War Two military installation on Godley Head.

Crater Rim Walkway

For sweeping views over both the city and Lyttelton Harbour in one outing, the Crater Rim Walkway along Summit Road is hard to beat. The full track runs from the Sign of the Kiwi to Godley Head, but it is easily broken into shorter sections, so it suits everyone from a gentle afternoon stroll to a full day on the hills. Keep an eye out for paragliders launching from the ridgeline on a fine day, and pack a jacket, as the wind on the tops can turn quickly even when the city below is calm.

Rapaki Track

Starting from Rapaki Bay on the Lyttelton Harbour side, this track climbs steadily up to Summit Road, where it connects with the Crater Rim Walkway. It is a return trip of around two hours, moderately steep in places, and rewards you with wide views over the harbour and, on a clear day, out to the Southern Alps. It is a favourite with locals after work, and a good option if you would like a proper climb without needing a full day.

If you want to check out another of the numerous hikes in the area, and trust us, there are a lot, visit our blog on day walks around Christchurch, or the Christchurch City Council and ChristchurchNZ websites for further inspiration.

Stay Overnight in Akaroa

If you have an extra day up your sleeve, an overnight trip to Akaroa is one of the best ways to slow down and see a different side of Canterbury. Tucked inside the rim of an ancient volcano, Akaroa sits on Banks Peninsula, known to Māori as Te Pātaka o Rākaihautū (the storehouse of Rākaihautū), in recognition of the abundance of food and resources long found there. Akaroa itself is just over an hour’s drive from Christchurch, or a little longer by scenic shuttle, and feels like a world away from the city. The town’s French and British history shows up in its street names, architecture and cafes, and giving yourself a night there means you are not racing the clock to get back.

Spend your afternoon on the water with a harbour cruise, keeping an eye out for the world’s smallest and rarest dolphin, the Hector’s dolphin, along with fur seals and little penguins. Wander the village, browse the galleries and boutiques, and stop in at the Giant’s House, a mosaic-covered garden and gallery that rewards a slow look around. If you are keen to stretch your legs further, the Banks Peninsula Track winds through the hills above the harbour and can be walked as a shorter day section or a longer multi-day tramp for the more adventurous. As evening falls, Akaroa’s dark skies make it a wonderful spot for stargazing, with a couple of local operators running guided evenings under the stars.Akaroa has accommodation to suit most tastes, from boutique lodges and homestays to waterfront motels and holiday parks, but rooms fill quickly over the summer season, so it pays to book ahead. You can drive yourself over the Port Hills and across Banks Peninsula, or leave the car behind and take one of the scenic shuttle services that run daily from central Christchurch, with hotel pick-ups available.

Cultural Experiences

Right in the central city, Waka on Avon offers a Māori-operated paddling experience on the Ōtākaro (Avon River), the first time waka have been back on the river in more than 160 years. Local Ngāi Tūāhuriri guides open with a mihī whakatau (traditional welcome) before taking you out on a handcrafted waka (canoe), sharing stories of the river as a mahinga kai, a traditional food-gathering place, and its shared history between Māori and early settlers. It is a wonderfully accessible way to get out on the water and hear Christchurch’s story from those who know it best, and tours run daily from the booking office on Colombo Street, opposite Victoria Square.

Christchurch offers a genuine chance to connect with Māori culture and New Zealand’s history. At Willowbank Wildlife Reserve, the Kō Tāne Māori Experience opens with a pōwhiri (traditional welcome), followed by a kapa haka (Māori performing arts) show of waiata, haka and poi, and a wander through a recreated pre-European village. Many evenings finish with a hāngī (food cooked in an earth oven) dinner, making it an easy way to spend a full evening immersed in the culture.

History lovers should also make time for the Air Force Museum of New Zealand, which tells the story of aviation in this country through beautifully preserved aircraft and hands-on exhibits, and Quake City, which shares the personal stories behind the 2010 and 2011 Canterbury earthquakes and the city’s remarkable rebuild. Together with the Botanic Gardens, Canterbury Museum and Christchurch Art Gallery mentioned above, these experiences give visitors a rounded picture of the people, culture and resilience behind the city you see today.

Getting To and From the Airport

Christchurch Airport sits around 20 minutes’ drive from the city centre, and there are options to suit every budget and schedule. The Metro bus Purple Line runs directly between the terminal and the central Bus Interchange and is the most affordable way in, particularly if you are travelling light. For door-to-door convenience, taxis and rideshare services such as Uber and Ola operate from clearly marked pick-up areas just outside the terminal, and shared shuttle vans offer a good middle ground for solo travellers or small groups. If you plan to explore further afield, all the major rental car companies have desks in the terminal, and a hire car is well worth considering if Akaroa or the wider region is on your list.

Take your time, enjoy this beautiful city, its many green spaces, art spaces, culture and sight-seeing opportunities. 

Words by Anna @ HikingNZ

What to Pack for a Multi-Day Hiking Holiday in New Zealand

If you are staring at an empty pack a few weeks out from your multi-day hiking holiday and wondering exactly what to pack, you are in good company. It is one of the questions our team hear regularly, right up there with “how many pairs of socks do I actually need?” (three, and yes, they will get wet). After years of walking New Zealand's Great Walks and backcountry trails alongside hikers of every experience level, our guides have a clear picture of what earns its place in a pack and what often ends up unused.

This packing list reflects what our hikers need on a Kiwi-Style Hiking trip. Below, you will find the essentials, the items our guides gently insist on, what most guests bring but never touch, and what to add to the list if you are heading out on your own rather than with a guide.

The Essential Multi-Day Hiking Gear List

Every multi-day hiking trip starts with the same foundations: comfortable, well broken-in footwear, a pack that fits properly, and clothing that keeps you warm and dry when the weather turns, which in New Zealand it inevitably will, at some point, even in summer.

Footwear and Your Pack

Good hiking boots or a sturdy pair of hiking shoes matter more than almost anything else on this list, so make sure yours are already worn in before you arrive. Pair them with a backpack of around 50 litres, which is enough for a guided multi-day hike since your evenings are often spent in huts or lodges rather than carrying full camping gear. A simple backpack liner, a heavy-duty plastic bag lining the inside of your pack, keeps everything dry and costs next to nothing. Pack covers work well too, if they fit properly.

Staying Warm and Dry

New Zealand's weather in the mountains can shift from sunshine to sideways rain within the hour, so this part of the list is not optional. Bring a lightweight, compact sleeping bag, ideally down-filled, weighing around one to one and a half kilograms with a comfort rating to five degrees Celsius. A genuinely waterproof raincoat is essential, along with two warm mid-layers of fleece or merino wool; both keep working when they are damp, while cotton does not. Merino is a favourite among the guides: it is soft against the skin, does not hold onto odour the way some synthetics do, regulates temperature well, and is a truly sustainable fibre. New Zealand produces some of the world's best merino, so it is easy to find good gear locally. Round this out with merino or thermal underwear, top and bottom, for when things turn chilly.

Clothing for the Trail

For hiking itself, quick-dry shorts and two short-sleeved shirts in a quick-dry synthetic or fine merino fabric will see you through most days. Three pairs of good quality hiking socks is the number our guides recommend, since you will often have one wet pair at any given time, leaving you with dry ones for the evening. Add a warm hat, gloves or mittens for when the weather turns, and a spare pair of lightweight shoes or sandals to change into once the boots come off. Pack some casual clothing for travelling and evenings at the lodge or hut, along with your togs (swimming costume) and a lightweight travel towel if your trip includes any lake or river swimming. UPF tops are also increasingly popular among our guides and guests alike. If you are unfamiliar, these are a long-sleeved, hooded layer that offers excellent sun protection against New Zealand's strong UV and doubles as another useful layer.

And Don't Forget...

Sunscreen and sunglasses, a one-litre drink bottle, and a head torch or flashlight round out the practical basics. Don't forget insect repellent, either. New Zealand's sandflies love a bit of foreign blood. Add a small daypack for shorter side trips, your personal toiletries, medication, some basic first aid supplies, and a power bank to keep your devices charged.

Be Careful Not to Overpack These

Our guides notice the same patterns trip after trip. Cotton clothing is the biggest offender: cotton t-shirts and hoodies are heavy, slow to dry, and cold when they are wet, yet they are also the easiest things to throw in a bag out of habit. Another pattern is too many changes of clothes, or a full “smart casual” outfit for every evening. It helps to think of your clothing in two simple categories: a set of trail clothes for hiking, and a set of good clothes for the evening, rather than packing a fresh outfit for each day. New Zealand has a very relaxed dress code; turning up to a restaurant in shorts and a t-shirt is totally fine. Large containers and bottles of toiletries or cosmetics take up valuable space and weigh a lot, so downsize where you can. The honest advice from most guides is to pack light and enjoy the freedom it brings.

What Guides Insist You Never Leave Behind

If a guide checks your pack before departure, a few items get asked about every time. A truly waterproof raincoat tops the list, regardless of what the forecast says the morning you set off, along with sunscreen. There's an old saying among our guides: “Any idiot can take a raincoat on a wet day.” It sounds a bit blunt, but it's true, the real test is having one with you when the sky looks perfectly clear. A dry set of clothes and socks for the evening is non-negotiable, since arriving at a hut in wet gear with nothing dry to change into makes for a miserable night. Warm layers matter even in summer, especially once you're above the bush line, where the difference between day and night temperatures can be considerable.

Optional Extras Worth Considering

These handful of items are not essential but earn their place in some packs. Gaiters are useful on wet, muddy or scrubby sections of track, and a single walking pole or a pair takes real pressure off your knees on long descents and helps with balance on rough sections. Binoculars reward anyone keen on birdlife, particularly on trips through native forest, and earplugs are worth packing if you are a light sleeper heading into shared hut bunkrooms.

Print Friendly Packing List for a Kiwi-Style Trip

Essential Items:

• hiking boots or good hiking shoes
• backpack (50 litres is adequate)
• backpack liner (plastic bag)
• lightweight, compact sleeping bag (1–1.5 kg, 5°C (41°F) comfort, down preferred)
• waterproof raincoat
• warm fleece/wool/merino mid layer x2 (not cotton)
• shorts for hiking (preferably quick-dry)
• short-sleeved shirt x2 (quick-dry synthetic, or merino)
• thermal underwear – top & bottom (merino or synthetic)
• 3 pairs of good quality hiking socks (they get wet)
• warm hat
• sunscreen and sunglasses
• drink bottle (1 litre)
• spare lightweight shoes or sandals
• flashlight/head lamp
• insect repellent (sandflies like foreign blood)
• casual clothing for travel and evening
• gloves/mittens
• small daypack
• togs (swimming costume)
• towel (lightweight towels are great)
• personal toiletries, medication and first aid

Optional items:

Gaiters, binoculars, earplugs, walking poles, and a power bank.

We supply:

Therm-a-Rest sleeping mat, tents, cooking equipment, plates/cutlery, first aid kit, safety equipment and maps.

Guided Hiking vs. Independent Tramping: What Changes on Your Packing List

The list above covers what you need for a Kiwi-style guided multi-day hike, where your guide manages the logistics, safety equipment, and often the meals as well. If you are planning to walk independently, your packing list grows considerably, because you are now responsible for everything your guide would otherwise carry or arrange on your behalf.

Extra Gear for Independent Trampers

Walking unguided means adding a tent and sleeping mat if you are camping rather than staying in pre-booked huts, plus a gas cooker, fuel, and cooking and eating utensils. You will also need a map and compass or GPS, a personal locator beacon, a basic survival kit, and enough food for the entire trip with a spare day's supply built in. For a full breakdown, DOC's multi-day tramp gear list is a thorough independent reference worth checking against your own list before you set off.

How to Choose the Right Gear for Your Trip

The safest approach is to treat this list as a strong starting point rather than the final word, since the right gear always depends on the specific trip, the season, and the terrain. An alpine crossing calls for warmer layers and sturdier footwear than a coastal walk in high summer. Our guided Kiwi-Style Hiking trips each come with a trip-specific kit list once you book, so you can pack with real confidence rather than guessing from a generic gear guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much should my pack weigh for a multi-day hike in New Zealand?

On a guided Kiwi-style trip, most hikers comfortably manage with a pack in the region of ten kilograms. Independent trampers typically carry considerably more, often 12 to 15 kilograms or more, once camping gear, food, and cooking equipment are added.

What shoes should I wear in the evenings at huts or lodges?

A spare pair of lightweight shoes or sandals is ideal. Your boots need time to dry out overnight, and most hikers are glad to give their feet a break once the walking is done for the day.

Do I need to buy all new gear before my trip?

Not necessarily. Good boots and a reliable raincoat are worth investing in, but items such as walking poles or a sleeping bag can often be borrowed or hired in gateway towns if you would rather not buy them for a single trip.

What's the best fabric for hiking clothes, synthetic or merino wool?

Both work well for multi-day hiking, and the right call often comes down to personal preference. Synthetic fabrics are quick-drying, affordable, and widely available, while merino wool offers similar performance with the added benefits of natural odour resistance and excellent temperature regulation. It's a natural fibre, sustainably produced, and when you are finished with it the fibre will break down naturally rather than staying in the environment forever. What you want to avoid is cotton, which stays wet and offers no insulation once damp. Many hikers pack a mix of both, and our own guides are just as likely to reach for a merino layer as a technical synthetic one.

How do I keep my gear dry while hiking in New Zealand?

A backpack liner, essentially a sturdy plastic bag lining the inside of your pack, is the simplest and most reliable way to keep everything dry, even in heavy or prolonged rain. Pack covers are a good alternative if they fit well, though they can let water in at the seams and straps in a real downpour. Either way, packing key items like your sleeping bag and spare clothing in their own smaller dry bags adds an extra layer of protection.

Ready to Pack for Your New Zealand Hiking Holiday?

A good packing list takes the guesswork out of preparing for the trail, leaving you free to focus on the parts of the trip that matter: the scenery, the company, and the satisfaction of a long day well walked. Explore our guided Kiwi-Style Hiking trips to find the right multi-day adventure for you, and we will make sure you know exactly what to pack before you go.

Words by Dan @ HikingNZ

Fiordland National Park is New Zealand’s largest, covering 12,607 km2 (4868 sq mi) and makes up about 5% of New Zealand’s total land mass. To give you some context, that’s five times the size of the Peak District in the UK, and larger than Yellowstone and Yosemite combined.  For many of our Hiking New Zealand guests, Te Anau is where the adventure either begins, pauses, or winds down. After a day on the trail, there are few better things than a good meal, a relaxed lakeside wander, and a quiet evening in one of New Zealand’s most scenic small towns.

First thing’s first…

How do I get to Te Anau?

Te Anau is tucked away near the end of State Highway 94, there’s no regional airport to fly into, the closest airport is Queenstown. From there, it is a two-hour drive to reach Te Anau. You can rent a vehicle and self-drive, or take a shuttle from Queenstown; local company Tracknet (www.tracknet.net) offers services to Te Anau daily.

Dining in Te Anau

Here are our favourite places to eat in Te Anau, along with a few easy evening activities to help you make the most of your time in town.

The Redcliff Bar and Restaurant

Redcliff Bar and Restaurant is a long-time Te Anau favourite, and a strong choice if you are looking for a sit-down dinner with local flavour. The atmosphere is warm and rustic, with a menu that often leans into the best of the region, including Southland lamb, venison, local produce, Central Otago wines, and craft beer.

It is a good option for couples, small groups, or anyone wanting a proper meal after a full day outdoors. If you are visiting during the busy summer season, it is worth booking ahead.

Ditto

Ditto brings something bright and fresh to the Te Anau food scene. With Asian-inspired dishes, bold flavours, and a relaxed town-centre setting, it is ideal when you want something satisfying but not too heavy. Think bao, bowls, dumplings, fries with a twist, and plenty of colour on the plate.

It is a great pick for families, friends, and travellers who want a casual dinner with flavour. It can also work well for takeaway if you would rather eat back at your accommodation after a big walking day.

The Fat Duck

The Fat Duck was named Supreme Champion at the 2025 Estrella Damm Top 50 New Zealand Gastropubs Awards. It is a popular Te Anau choice, known for hearty Kiwi-style dining with a modern feel. It has the kind of menu that suits a mixed group, which is useful when everyone has walked different distances, has different appetites, and is ready for dinner at exactly the same time.

Expect a relaxed restaurant and bar atmosphere, with plenty of options for a full meal or something lighter. It is a handy choice for families, groups, and visitors who want an easy, reliable dinner in town.

Sandfly Cafe

Sandfly Cafe is a good stop earlier in the day, especially if you are looking for coffee, breakfast, brunch, or lunch. It is the sort of place that suits Te Anau perfectly: casual, friendly, and practical for travellers heading out on the road or returning from a morning walk.

If you are planning a day trip, it is worth calling in for coffee and something to eat before you set off. The name is a good reminder that Fiordland has a sense of humour, even when the sandflies are winning.

La Toscana

La Toscana is a handy option when pizza or pasta is exactly what the evening calls for. It is particularly good for families, groups, and anyone wanting an easy, filling meal after a day outside.

Italian food tends to travel well across ages and appetites, which makes this a useful choice if you are eating with children or a group that cannot agree on much apart from being hungry. It is also a good option if you want takeaway and a quiet night in.

Miles Better Pies

A good pie has its place in any New Zealand travel plan, and Miles Better Pies is a well-known Te Anau stop. It is best suited to breakfast, lunch, or food on the go rather than an evening meal, but it deserves a mention for anyone heading towards Milford Sound, walking part of the Kepler Track, or needing something simple and satisfying between activities.

Their range of pies, sandwiches, slices, and coffee makes this a practical stop before a day outdoors. If the weather is kind, take your food down towards the lake and enjoy one of the best dining views in town.

Wapiti Bakery and Cafe

Wapiti Bakery and Café is a classic kiwi bakery. The last time I was there, I popped in early in the morning for a takeaway coffee. A cinnamon scroll caught my eye, so it ended up stashed in my hiking pack. I consider myself a connoisseur of baked goods, and I can confirm, it was the best cinnamon scroll I’ve ever had. If you’re after casual food, excellent baking, or something quick before heading out for the day, it’s a practical choice for travellers who want a no-fuss meal, coffee, or takeaway-style food before a drive or walk.

For hikers, bakeries are often part of the rhythm of travel in New Zealand: breakfast, packed lunch, and post-walk treat all in one place.

Black Dog Bar

Black Dog Bar is part of the Fiordland Cinema experience, making it a great choice for a relaxed evening drink before or after a film. It is not trying to be a big-city bar, and that is part of its charm. It is a comfortable place to enjoy a local wine, beer, or quiet drink while you settle into the slower pace of Te Anau.

Pair it with a screening of Ata Whenua - Shadowland for a very Te Anau-style evening.

Evening Activities in Te Anau

Fiordland Cinemas

Watch Ata Whenua - Shadowland

Fiordland Cinema is one of Te Anau’s best evening options. Its signature short film, Ata Whenua - Shadowland, showcases Fiordland from the air, including remote landscapes many visitors would never otherwise see. It is especially worthwhile if you have just walked in Fiordland or are about to head deeper into the national park.

Watch Deer Wars

For something a little grittier, Fiordland Cinema also screens Deer Wars, a short New Zealand documentary about the helicopter deer recovery era in the Southern Alps and Fiordland. It tells the story of the pilots, hunters, and machines that turned a major ecological problem into a booming export industry, often at serious personal risk.

It is a fascinating slice of New Zealand backcountry history, especially for anyone interested in conservation, hunting, aviation, or the wilder side of Fiordland’s past. That said, it is not everyone’s cup of tea. The film includes confronting subject matter and some scenes may offend. Make sure it’s the right film for you.

The cinema also screens selected current films, and the Black Dog Bar makes it easy to turn the visit into a relaxed night out.

Walk the Lake Te Anau waterfront

One of the simplest and most rewarding things to do in Te Anau is to take an evening walk along the lakefront. The light over the water and mountains can be beautiful, and it is an easy way to stretch your legs after dinner without needing a big plan.

This is a good option for families, couples, solo travellers, and anyone who wants a quiet moment after a busy day. Take a jacket, as evenings beside the lake can cool down quickly.

Visit the Te Anau Glowworm Caves

For something more structured, the Te Anau Glowworm Caves are a memorable evening activity. The experience includes a boat trip across Lake Te Anau, a guided cave walk, and a small boat ride through the glowworm grotto.

It is a good option for travellers who want to see another side of Fiordland without taking on another big walk.

Frequently Asked Questions about Te Anau

Do I need to book restaurants in Te Anau in advance?

Te Anau is a small town, and its food scene works around the rhythm of the seasons. In summer and during busy travel periods, restaurants can fill quickly, so it is worth booking dinner ahead, especially for popular spots like Redcliff Bar and Restaurant and The Fat Duck.

Are restaurant opening hours in Te Anau the same all year?

No. Opening hours can change seasonally, particularly in winter, so check directly with each venue before making firm plans. If you are heading out early for Milford Sound, plan breakfast or lunch supplies the day before. On a guided hiking trip, you can expect breakfasts and lunches included.

Is Te Anau worth visiting if I am not doing a multi-day hike?

Yes. Te Anau is the gateway to Fiordland and a destination in its own right, with good dining, an easy lakefront walk, the Te Anau Glowworm Caves, and Fiordland Cinema all within walking distance of the town centre. Many guests use it as a relaxed base before or after time on the trail, a cruise on Milford Sound, but it works just as well as a stop on its own.

What is Matariki?

Matariki is more than just a beautiful celestial event, it’s traditionally a time that brings people together to remember those who have passed, give thanks for the harvest, and set intentions for the year ahead. It’s a deeply meaningful time in te ao Māori, the Māori world, and in 2022, it was officially recognised as a public holiday in New Zealand, making it our first holiday to be grounded in te ao Māori. That recognition has opened the door for more people to learn, celebrate, and appreciate the richness of this tradition.

Each year, a Matariki theme is selected to reflect the location of the national host iwi, educate, adapt evolving cultural practices and reinforce this inclusive celebration that unites New Zealand's diverse communities. In 2026, the Matariki host iwi is Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei in Tāmaki Makaurau (Auckland), the theme is Matariki Herenga Waka. This translates to "the gathering place of canoes" and is an open invitation for all people and communities to gather, reflect, and celebrate together.

Celebrations around Matariki vary by region and iwi (tribe). My own iwi, Ngāi Tahu, celebrates with the appearance of another star, Puaka (or Puanga to other iwi, and also known as Rigel), which appears in the sky around the same time of the year, as the Matariki cluster is more difficult to see in some parts country. Regardless, celebrations tend to focus on three key themes: Hunga Nui - remembrance, Ahunga Nui - celebration, and Manako Nui - vision. It’s a time to honour loved ones who have passed on, gather with whānau and friends, share kai (food) and stories, and to look ahead with hope and intention. There’s something grounding about stopping mid-winter to acknowledge the cycles of life, death, and renewal, all under the quiet gaze of the stars.

How can hikers celebrate?

For those who love the outdoors, Matariki resonates deeply. It reminds us that the land and sky are part of the same living system. You might wake early for a winter hike, steaming mug in hand, and look up to spot the cluster sparkling in the pre-dawn sky. Out in the hills, with the air crisp and the world hushed, Matariki becomes more than a story, it becomes an experience.

Science, stargazing and stories

Scientifically, Matariki is known as the Pleiades, an open star cluster located around 444 light-years from Earth in the Taurus constellation. It contains hundreds of stars, though most people can see about seven to nine with the naked eye — depending on the clarity of the sky and their own eyesight. These stars are relatively young in astronomical terms, only about 100 million years old. They’re hot, blue, and bright, and still surrounded by the remnants of the nebula from which they were born.

What’s truly fascinating is that this same star cluster is known and revered around the world. In ancient Greece, it was the story of the seven daughters of Atlas and Pleione, pursued by the hunter Orion. In Japan, the cluster is called Subaru, yes, like the car brand, which uses six stars in its logo. In Hawaii, it’s Makaliʻi, marking the beginning of the harvest season. Across the Pacific, in Australia and among Indigenous nations, similar stories emerge with different names, different legends, but all pointing to the same stars.

This blend of astronomy, ecology, and cultural wisdom is unique and powerful. It reflects the deep understanding Māori have of seasonal cycles, sustainability, and the interconnectedness of all things.

What do the stars signify in Te Ao Māori?

In Māori tradition, each star in the Matariki cluster has its own name and meaning, often tied to environmental elements.
Matariki: The cluster's main star, is known as the mother of the other eight visible stars. 
Pōhutukawa: Connects Matariki to the dead, and remembering those who have passed. 
Tupuānuku: Represents the life and growth that come from the earth. 
Tupuārangi: Associated with food sources from the sky, such as birds and fruits.
Waitī: Represents freshwater, food sources sustained by those waters, and the connection to rivers and lakes. 
Waitā: A twin to Waitī, associated with saltwater and the life within it. 
Waipuna-ā-Rangi: Connected to rain and the life it nourishes. 
Ururangi: Represents the winds and is thought to predict the weather patterns for the coming year. 
Hiwa-i-te-Rangi: The youngest star, associated with wishes, hopes, and aspirations for the new year.

Can I celebrate Matariki?

Of course! Celebrating Matariki doesn’t have to be complicated. It can be as simple as sharing a meal with loved ones, if you’re in New Zealand, attending a local event, writing down your hopes for the year ahead, or rising early to watch the stars from a quiet place. However you choose to mark it, Matariki invites us to slow down and be present, to reflect on where we’ve come from and where we’re going, with appreciation for both the journey and those who walk it with us.

As the Matariki stars rise, so too do our thoughts, our memories, and our aspirations. In a world that often moves too fast, this ancient celebration gives us permission to pause, breathe, and reconnect to the sky, to the land, and to each other. This year, I plan to travel South to my tūrangawaewae, (the place of my ancestors, where I connect to my heritage). I will look to the stars and be grateful for the many blessings in my life.

Mānawatia a Matariki, honour, acknowledge and welcome Matariki, may you celebrate and cherish this special time of year, in whatever way speaks to your heart.

Words by Anna Fussell

Waiata

Māori waiata (songs); are an important part of Māori culture, carrying stories of whakapapa, love, loss, identity, history, and place. Some are traditional, passed down through generations, while others are newly composed and speak to contemporary life in Aotearoa.

For travellers, including waiata in their playlist can be a meaningful way to connect more deeply with the country. Waiata holds memory, language and cultural identity, so it is worth taking the time to learn a little about where they come from.