It’s the city of the Renaissance, visited by millions each year for Michelangelo, Botticelli, Leonardo and the rest of Florence’s historic luminaries.

IMAGE: DONALD STRACHAN

But Florentines themselves don’t live in the past. There’s a real buzz about the new top floor of Florence’s Mercato Centrale, especially in the evening. Dining is freestyle, informal, a contrast to the city’s sit-down, jacketed-waitstaff image. There’s handmade pasta, seafood, cold-cut counters and even a trippaio, a tripe vendor—lampredotto, a cow’s fourth stomach, is Florence’s authentic street food. When Fiorentina’s football team are playing, you can watch all the action here on the big screen. Nearby, Florence’s new Brewdog nails the industrial look of other bars in the franchise. Brewdog’s uncompromising Scottish craft beers plus guests from all over Europe flow from a dozen taps.

IMAGE: LOST IN FLORENCE

Across town, CiBi is another restaurant which only opened this year. Here I’ve eaten baccalà (salt cod) mousse with crudités; roast octopus with parsley and potato cream. These ingredients are familiar to a Tuscan palate, certainly. But CiBi’s dishes are fresher and friskier than the hearty stews and game pasta of Florentine traditional cooking.

The City of Michelangelo

IMAGE: DONALD STRACHAN

In fact, there’s more than enough of modern Florence to fill a long weekend. But what about art? This is the city of Michelangelo, remember, and “selling” modern art to visitors who come here for a diet of Renaissance, Renaissance and more Renaissance must be a tough task.

Yet a new museum is turning that assumption on its head. Opened in summer 2014, the Museo Novecento has a permanent collection of painting and sculpture that focuses on some of the 20th century’s most significant movements, including Futurism. Displays cover three floors, whisking you backwards in time from the geometrical sculpture of young Florentines who displayed at the 1988 Venice Biennale through a checklist of the Italian 20th century. It includes Giorgio Morandi and De Chirico, name-checking the Sei di Torino, Rome’s Scuola di Via Cavour, and the avant garde along the way.

IMAGE: DONALD STRACHAN

“It is also an interdisciplinary museum, which continually integrates the visual arts with music, theatre, literature, architecture and so on,” explains museum director Dr. Valentina Gensini. Exhibits cover the genesis of a couple of icons: the Pitti fashion shows and annual Maggio Musicale opera festival. There’s modern exposition, too; iPads scattered around, audio and video reels, and plenty in English. Visitors don’t escape the past entirely—the museum lives inside a former hospital, founded in the 1200s then revamped during the Renaissance by one of architecture’s big cheeses, Michelozzo—but there are precious few nods to the distant past.

A magical short film runs on a loop in the museum’s screening room, a patchwork of clips from a century of cinematography. A few frames from a lost Futurist film of 1916, then the rubble of war and occupation; grainy black-and-white gives way to Technicolor, followed by clips from period classics like “Tea with Mussolini” and “Room with a View”. A musical score, peppered with occasional snatches of dialogue, gives it a shamelessly sentimental feel.

What does this 20-minute movie say about the way we see Florence? “The film does not reflect one idea of Florence. It shows a Florence still bound to its Renaissance identity, or sometimes transformed into a mythical place, or involved in current affairs, as in films of the neorealist genre,” says Dr. Gensini.

IMAGE: FREEPENGUIN

The Museo Novecento is not alone in flying a modern flag over the cultural scene. There’s usually a contemporary edge to shows at the Palazzo Strozzi—right now it’s Picasso—and the attached Strozzina. Another recent arrival is the Gucci Museo, inside a palace on Piazza della Signoria. Rooms are stuffed with originals, including Oscar-night dresses and one-off designs made for Princess Grace. Fashion-house founder Guccio Gucci was a Florentine, and this collection places his work at the centre of the city’s artisan traditions. Florence always was a place to shop for leather. It still is.

How do modern collections tempt visitors zeroed in on the Renaissance? “It is the contrast that works,” says Dr. Gensini. “The museum not only demonstrates that great artists and great intellectuals worked in Florence, but this city has had the attention of the art world, nationally and internationally.” That attention did not evaporate when the Renaissance left town.

Donald Strachan is a travel journalist who’s written for National Geographic Traveller and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. Check out his latest adventures on his website.He is also co-author of Frommer’s Italy 2015.

The Museums of Michelangelo

MercatoC  Museo Novecento  BrewDog  Palazzo Strozzi

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A new museum shows the modern side of Florence

December 18, 2014

Where to find the ancients in Rome: Tunnels, tombs and terrible history

December 4, 2014

The best places in Italy for first-time skiers

November 13, 2014

About the Author

Donald Strachan

Ah, the romance of Rome. Those Spanish Steps and art treasures of Renaissance popes; the kooky cachet of films like Roman Holiday; a stolen kiss on the Ponte Sisto or a moonlit walk on the cobblestones of Trastevere.

But the reason it’s all here in the first place? That stretches a lot further back in time. For a few centuries, Rome was the centre of the Western world. Romans ruled over land from Scotland to Syria, and all the wealth of their Empire paid for the upkeep of one of the finest cities on Earth: Rome.

Thankfully, when it came to building, the Romans knew what they were doing. Much of their glorious ancient city survives.

Donald Strachan does Ancient Rome

Republics and Empires: Rome is famed for its Republic, an elite sort-of-democracy, where power rested with a few toga-clad Senators. However, the Senate’s importance dwindled after the fall of the Republic in 27 BC. Most of what you see today dates from the Empire or later. The Colosseum was built during the reign of emperors Vespasian and Titus, around 80 AD. Trajan’s Forum, Column and Markets date to the 2nd century, and the Arch of Constantine was erected in 312 by Rome’s first Christian emperor. One exception is the Pantheon, completed in 27 BC. But even this building, with its record-breaking dome, was extensively altered in the 2nd century AD under Emperor Hadrian (yes, the Wall guy).

Take a walk: Context Travel runs some of Rome’s best walks, both above and below ground level. Private guide Agnes Crawford can design detailed itineraries around the Rome of the ancients, including the Forum, Colosseum and imperial palace of the Palatine Hill.

Roman reading: Reams of text have written about the stones of Rome and a little reading ahead of arrival will enhance your stay. David Watkin’s The Roman Forum traces the rise and fall of the ancient city’s heart and busts a few myths in the process. (Spoiler: it’s not all as old as you think).

Top places to find the ancients in Rome

San Clemente

Nowhere else in Rome can you so tangibly peel back layer after layer of history. At ground level, San Clemente appears a fairly straightforward 12-century church, with early Renaissance wall paintings by Masolino and medieval mosaics decorating the apse. But there’s more… head downstairs to wander the floorplan of an much older church, built in the 4th century and destroyed in the Norman ransack of 1084. But even this church was built on top of something else: two Roman buildings (you can walk the alleyway between them) and a small temple dedicated to Mithras, subject of a weird cult with mysterious origins in Persia. The entire lower level echoes to the sound of running water, from ancient plumbing that still works.

Baths of Caracalla

Amidst tough competition, Emperor Caracalla might just be Rome’s most sadistic emperor. To win the top job, he had his brother Geta murdered in their own mother’s arms. Caracalla also liked a clean citizenry; his public baths complex, completed around 217 AD, is monumental in size, and at its peak served 1,600 bathers at a time. Baths were open to all walks of life (though men and women bathed separately). Uniquely, you can walk through subterranean tunnels here used by workers to keep the waters flowing and each pool heated to just the right temperature.

Christian catacombs

IMAGE: GERARDM

Christians who didn’t fancy becoming gladiator fodder or lion food – though the latter is probably a myth –had to worship in secret. One important contrast with official Roman religion was Christian burial, where bodies had to remain intact awaiting resurrection. (Here they were often stashed in niches carved into miles of underground walls.) Rome’s underground catacombs are mostly south of the centre, beside the Appian Way, and were used between the 1st and 5th centuries. You can roam the labyrinthine tunnels on guided walks, including the Catacombs of St. Calixtus (burial site of 3rd-century popes) and of St. Sebastian, named after a soldier martyred during Emperor Diocletian’s enthusiastic persecutions.

Ostia Antica

Thousands of visitors every year make an exhausting round trip between Rome and Pompeii, but there’s an intact Roman town just beyond the end of the city’s Metro’s B line. Ostia was the ancient city’s seaport, until it silted up and was surpassed after the 1st century AD. Streets and alleys remain intact, as do the Forum and several temples and the baths and theatre alongside Ostia’s decumanus (“main street”). Arrive early in the day and you’ll probably have Ostia to yourself, aside from a handful of feral cats that live among the stones.

The museum trail

IMAGE: JENSENS

Rome’s museums are stuffed with Roman artefacts dug up over the centuries. Best among the less well-known collections is the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. Here you can get up close with several imperial notables – their marble portrait busts anyway – including emperors Vespasian, Nerva, Domitian and Hadrian.

Donald Strachan is a travel journalist who’s written for National Geographic Traveller and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. Check out his latest adventures on his website.

Ancients reanimated in Rome

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A new museum shows the modern side of Florence

December 18, 2014

Where to find the ancients in Rome: Tunnels, tombs and terrible history

December 4, 2014

The best places in Italy for first-time skiers

November 13, 2014

About the Author

Donald Strachan

IMAGE: TURISMOTORINO.ORG

There’s a knack to choosing a perfect ski resort, especially one where you’re hoping to find your snow legs. The best beginner resorts have wide, gentle pistes that are easily accessible from the main village or lifts. They also have plenty of variety. Just because you’re skiing with L-plates, doesn’t mean you want to be restricted to a small number of inevitably packed nursery slopes.

Which is where Italy comes in. Its resorts have some of the best value skiing and boarding anywhere in Europe, with gentle skiing above and below the tree line. Here are some of my favourite spots for first-timers.

Donald’s guide to skiing in the Italian Alps

bardonecchia half pipe Photo: turismotorino

Budgeting. There’s no getting away from it: skiing and snowboarding can make for expensive holidays. As well as flights, accommodation and transfers by bus, rail or rental car, you’ll need to budget for lift passes and, if you’re a first-timer, renting your equipment, including a helmet. Italy’s supermarkets can help you make savings elsewhere. Bread and salami form a good basic packed lunch; pasta and pre-prepared sauces (or the raw materials for making your own) are cheap too. A hearty lunch on the slopes—and you’ll need it with all that carb-burning—should come in around €10 a head if you choose frugally.

Insurance. Chances are, your holiday will pass without so much as a sprained toe. But don’t skimp on insurance: A&E treatment in Italy is free for EU citizens carrying an EHIC, but getting from the mountain to the hospital is not, and nor are private clinic consultations. Make sure your travel insurance policy covers winter sports.

Top places in Italy for first-time skiers

Pila

This small, purpose-built resort is where my kids learned to ski, and has a perfect set-up for first-timers. There’s an excellent ski school, with bilingual instructors available for private lessons. Above the nursery area there are vast, open bowls, perfect terrain for someone finding their feet. There’s also a gondola lift connecting the resort with the Alpine city of Aosta, in the valley below. You can stay in slope-side accommodation, without being stuck with the limitations of a resort for dining and evening entertainment. If you have the energy to leave your apartment, that is…

Bardonecchia

IMAGE: TOURISMOTOURINO

The resorts of the Val di Susa, west of Turin, have some of the shortest transfer times in the Alps. It’s under an hour-and-a-half from the arrivals hall to your front door. There’s also a mainline train station right in the resort (one hour and 24 minutes from Torino Porta Nuova station); doing Bardonecchia without a hire car is realistic. The Val di Susa has a well-earned rep for partying, though Bardonecchia is more laid-back than nearby Sauze d’Oulx. The snow record is good, plus there are snow cannons if you catch a bad weather week. Once you’re a bit steadier on your feet, there’s pretty tree skiing on the hill directly above, including several blue runs. This is also also an ideal resort to combine with a daytrip or overnight stay in Turin.

Livigno

Livigno is friendly on the pocket, thanks to its unique tax-free status. It’s also a good place to learn to ski or board, with gentle, wide-open pistes, respected ski schools and generous piste gradings—many of the 37 red runs here would be graded blue in Italy’s tougher resorts (and there are 29 blues here, too). There’s also lots to do in-resort if you discover skiing “isn’t your thing”—including skidoo trips and dog-sledding, plus a menu of spa treatments, steam baths and heated indoor and outdoor pools at Aquagranda.

Passo Tonale

This small-ish resort north of the Italian Lakes region is surrounded by some of Italy’s most spectacular mountain scenery: the Adamello-Brenta and Stelvio national parks are both on the horizon. It’s high (1,883 metres to 3,100 metres), with a long season, and so ideally suited to an early- or late-season trip to the mountains. Nursery slopes are right by the resort, sunny and wide, plus there’s a special kindergarten area where you can leave little ones to take their first slides on snow with a qualified instructor. In a mixed ability group, better skiers can head up to the Presena Glacier or the adjacent village of Ponte di Legno.

Cervinia

You can ski almost all year on the glacier at Cervinia—this is one of Italy’s best summer ski spots. With the resort base at over 2,000 metres and a top station at 3,883 metres, snow is pretty much guaranteed all winter and into spring. The best of the 72 runs here is long and sweeping, with views of the pyramid of rock that Italians call Monte Cervino, but most of us know as the Matterhorn. The long piste from the Plateau Rosa back to the resort makes a great target for the end of your first week. There are three dedicated children’s ski areas, too.

Donald Strachan is a travel journalist who’s written for National Geographic Traveller and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. Check out his latest adventures on his website. He is also co-author of Frommer’s Italy 2015.

First time skiing in Italy

Pila Ski school  Bardonecchia 

Livigno  Cervinia

A new museum shows the modern side of Florence

December 18, 2014

Where to find the ancients in Rome: Tunnels, tombs and terrible history

December 4, 2014

The best places in Italy for first-time skiers

November 13, 2014

About the Author

Donald Strachan

Britain’s past is laced with spooky and mysterious tales. Legends abound when we envisage mythical places. Think of Somerset through the ages and you’ll likely conjure images of King Arthur, Stonehenge and verdant countryside covered in a billowing cloud of mist and fog. Perhaps it’s because we have so many days of grey and overcast weather; perhaps it’s the geography of caves, rolling countryside and the occasional monolith; whatever the case, we’ve collectively cooked up some fantastic stories about our past on these islands.

Unexplained sightings; foreboding buildings; miraculous feats that defy explanation. Legendary figures and, of course, things that go bump in the night. Which version of history would you rather hear about: the official one taught in the textbooks, or the version that’s haunted with ghosts and stuff?

It’s settled then – we’re all going on a tour of Britain’s most mysterious places. Along the way we’ll travel the length and breadth of Britain and have a couple of guides in Mysterious Britain and Spooky Things to help us out. Pack a lunch and bring the family, let little ones know they’ve nothing to fear and let’s explore. The past can’t hurt us any more…can it?

The mystical mother of all tours

There are many tours, but there is only one Tor’s Tour of the Tor. Confused? Don’t be. Tor your tour master will explain all during your, um, tour. Among the many myths vying for your curiosity, Glastonbury is an enduring one whose lure refuses to diminish. Make no mistake, this sacred site is a very real place with a very fascinating history.

Tor has this to say of Halloween visits:

“Are you looking for something unusual to do for Halloween? Then a tour of the mystical Glastonbury, where Halloween is called Samhain, is the thing to do. Avalon (Glastonbury to you and me) is where the veil is thinnest between this world and the spirit world. It’s where the ghosts of the monks whisper in your ear, where ‘Gwynn Ab Nud’, king of the faeries, rides his chariot of lost souls through the night sky and where stories of dragons and nature spirits come alive, visit if you dare.”

It’s what we don’t know about old Avalon that raises eyebrows however. At Halloween, the day known as Samhain is a time when the veil between the real world and the spirit world is believed to be at its thinnest. Prime time, then, for exploring this magical place where faery kings, lost souls, dragons and nature spirits are all part of the mythology.

Ponder the mysteries of Stonehenge on an autumn walk

IMAGE: STONEHENGE TOURS

From the Summer Solstice to Spinal Tap, the allure of Stonehenge is irresistible. It’s permeated popular culture and seared itself into the consciousness of millions, entranced by the amorphous origins of this World Heritage Site.

Reading up on Stonehenge is a worthy starting point, but the only way to appreciate the might and majesty of this iconic landmark is by viewing it in the flesh – or the stone, rather. You’d think Stonehenge Tours would know a thing or two about Ancient Britain’s most venerable site, and you’d be right. Here’s what they have to say on an autumnal visit:

“Autumn is the perfect season to discover mysterious Stonehenge. The new Visitor Centre is now a transformed experience and worthy of a family day out. As autumn colour develops, a great way to take in this spectacle is on foot. Take time to explore the Stonehenge landscape and walk in the steps of our ancestors at one of the world’s best-preserved prehistoric sites.”

In autumn, the prehistoric site sparkles in the low sunlight and radiates seasonal browns and yellows that transform the countryside into an organic patchwork quilt. Stonehenge Tours specialise in overseeing small group outings that present the best way to learn the secrets of this ancient monument, whilst still finding the space for quiet contemplation that its looming presence demands. Under big skies, gaze up at the biggest stone circle of all and ponder the arcane rituals that must have unfolded here in full moons, centuries and millennia past.

Uncover the greatest myth of all at St Michael’s Mount

IMAGE: ST MICHAELS MOUNT

At St Michael’s Mount, 1,000 years of history are littered with chatter about the grandest legend of all, for it is here that a mythical giant once walked. As you stroll across the ancient stone causeway, you can retrace his steps – but don’t count on matching him stride for stride. Even without the giant’s presence looming large over the island, there’s more than enough here to fire febrile imaginations.

Coastal path walkers and mount Photo: St Michael’s Mount

In 1588, the first beacon was lit on St Michael’s Mount to warn of the invading Spanish Armada fleet. History, myth and legend intertwine in this tight-knit community where pilgrims once flocked. In the year 495, for example, the Archangel St Michael supposedly appeared to a group of fishermen. Even if you fail to experience a similar epiphany during your trip to the Cornish paradise, there is ample intrigue and history to occupy a family holiday. And seafood and tea and fancy cakes too, for no man can subsist on a diet of urban legends and historical encounters alone, no matter how satisfying they may be.

Autumn is the perfect season to discover mysterious Stonehenge 

Dark deeds and buried secrets beneath the streets of Edinburgh

Beneath Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile lies another street that is every bit as historic. In fact, the Old Town conceals a maze of hidden streets that have scarcely changed since the 17th century. Not only is it mercifully free of chuggers, beggars and tuneless bagpipers, but Mary King’s Close is stowed with hair-raising tales of misdeeds and malfeasance. Make no mistake, this ain’t no ghost tour: this stuff’s scary because it actually happened.

Real Mary Kings Close, close up Photo: Real Mary kings Close

The Real Mary King’s Close run tours that explore this warren of subterranean streets and vividly recount their history. The underground/hour long tour should be suitable for all but very young children. Bring the family and perhaps they’ll finally start to appreciate what they’ve got in our pampered age of electric light, smartphones and relative law and order. If you think Mary King’s Close is sinister now, you should have met its residents 400 years ago.

Spooky goings on in Cumbria’s Muncaster Castle

On the surface, Muncaster Castle is a charming building and gardens that’s the perfect setting for an autumn walk or a fairytale wedding. And it is: Muncaster is all these things plus a world owl centre, concert venue, corporate playground and historic house. Dig a little deeper however and it soon becomes evident that there’s more to Munster than confetti and handmade crafts. The castle is reputed to be one of the spookiest places in Cumbria, and Halloween week is filled with special events.

Ian Topham from Mysterious Britain has this to say:

“I have been investigating the site for 20 years and will be there on Halloween myself.  They really put on a great event which is certainly family friendly”

As if being billed as one of Britain’s most haunted castles wasn’t foreboding enough, October ushers in a host of horror-themed installations, from the Scary Maze to the endearingly-named Frightsville Village of Fear where, presumably, you really don’t want to trouble the neighbours for a cup of sugar. Evening ghost tours around the castle are immensely popular; booking in advance is recommended if you’re craving to give yourself the heebie-jeebies. Why settle for faux fear when you can experience the real thing in the spectre-infested tunnels and passageways of Muncaster Castle?

Stay in the West Lake District

Family Friendly Mystery

Mysterious Britain   Spooky Things   Tors Tour  Stonehenge Tour   St Michaels Mount

Mary  Kings Close   Muncaster Castle

A new museum shows the modern side of Florence

December 18, 2014

Where to find the ancients in Rome: Tunnels, tombs and terrible history

December 4, 2014

The best places in Italy for first-time skiers

November 13, 2014

About the Author

HomeAway.co.uk

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Everyone is familiar with the TV series The Only Way is Essex. Regardless of whether you’re a TOWIE fan, there’s no disputing the role the programme has had in shaping public opinion of the county. I’m pleased to say my experience of Essex is very different from the TV portrayal and, should you have an opportunity to visit, I hope yours will be too.

TOWIE: Try Our Way Into Essex. Photo: telly-talk

More than anything, I fell in love with the diversity of the county. There is so much more to Essex than beauty salons and nightclubs – although I’m not averse to the odd spa treatment or late night boogie! For me, what sealed it was the stunning countryside, the quaint towns and villages and the vast coastline.

Winter is looming, Christmas is just around the corner and half-term is already upon us. Now is the perfect time to book a break and gain some respite from the pressures of school and work. Here are my top tips for getting the most out this beautiful county by trying ‘Our Way Into Essex’.

Get the adrenaline pumping

IMAGE ROPE RUNNERS

Outdoor adventure is a great way to come together as a family, strengthen bonds and have a good laugh into the bargain.

Rope Runners are based at Kelvedon Hatch near to Ongar and Brentwood. They’re an all-weather adventure activity centre who offer a wealth of outdoor pastimes. Whether it’s a team building corporate day or a family excursion, you’re guaranteed to find an adrenaline-fuelled adventure to suit.

Hanging out with Rope Runners. Photo: Rope Runners

Although much more than a high ropes course, the centre does boast its share of high-wire thrills: six different courses are laid out over three different levels, complete with an exhilarating zip wire, fan descender and climbing wall.

Rope Runners also offers air rifle target shooting, archery, water zorbing, a tunnel adventure in a purpose-built tunnel system and orienteering. There’s also a paintball alley where you can get a taster of what paintballing is all about without the pain of being hit by those pesky pellets, an assault course, skate-barn and even an artificial ice rink.

For those who take their adrenaline fixes seriously, Kelvedon Hatch is home to one of Essex’s oldest obstacle and adventure courses. There is a selection of races you can choose to take part in, varying in distance and difficulty. One thing that’s guaranteed for all is a wet, muddy and challenging adventure.

Oh, and you can also take a tour of the nuclear bunker that can be found on the site.

Can’t decide which of these activities you want to partake in? Then book a multi-activity day or wristband session and prepare to  get that adrenaline pumping!

A world of steam

IMAGE ROY STRUTT

For something a little more sedate but still sure to appeal to all ages, Epping Ongar Railway will take you on an unforgettable journey. This is the longest heritage railway in Essex and the closest one to London. In keeping with the era, start your journey in a vintage bus that will pick you up outside Epping underground station and stop at period railway stations along the line. From there, steam and diesel-hauled heritage trains wait to take you on a journey of discovery.

You can explore your surroundings from the stations. Ongar’s gift shop is a mine of information – the walks booklet is a must for those who want to discover the local area on foot. There are several short walks including one written by the local history society, which provides fascinating facts on the venerable buildings which make up the beautiful market town of Chipping Ongar, along with a walk to the oldest wooden church in the world, Greenstead Church.

Epping Ongar Routemaster bus. Photo: Paul Smith

This half-term there will be a distinctly spooky feel to the trains and stations. Dare you ride the Ghost Train? Hugely popular last year and back by demand, this event will take place on the 30th and 31st October. Visitors will be encouraged to dress up in their best Halloween gear,and will be treated to displays by Epping Forest Hawk and Owl Sanctuary, apple-bobbing, face-painting and more. There will be themed goody bags and prizes for the best dressed on each train. If you’re planning to attend, book tickets as soon as possible.

December brings festive fun to the town; Santa rides start at North Weald where adults can enjoy mulled wine whilst youngsters sup a soft drink and seasonal mince pie. Sit back and enjoy the leisurely trip along the line. Santa will chat with all of the children and of course he’ll be bearing gifts.

Whether you’re visiting to attend a special event or are planning your own itinerary, Epping Ongar Railway will not disappoint.

A day on the farm

IMAGE BARLEYLANDS FARM PARK

From historic trains and pretty villages to farm animals and crafty shops: Barleylands Farm Park and Craft Village is on the outskirts of Billericay and is an all-weather attraction that will appeal to visitors of all ages.

The Farm Park is an animal sanctuary where you can get up close with the creatures via special hands-on sessions in their enclosures. There’s loads to see and take part in with an animal village, red squirrel enclosure, imperial birds of prey academy, tractor rides, indoor and outdoor play areas and a hands-on discovery centre. You’ll leave bursting with newfound knowledge and buzzing from a thoroughly enjoyable day out.

Over the coming months there are several special events: Half-term brings Pumpkin Fest, spooky fun and a free pumpkin to take home. It runs from 27th – 31st October.

Previous Guests at Spook Nights Photo: Barleylands

Following on nicely is Spooky Nights, two evenings full of Halloween family fun. Fearful frights await those who enter Boo Barn where there is a Haze Maze (rated 12a), trick and treating, disco dancing and mini fairground rides along with slippery snakes and creepy crawly encounters. It promises to be an unearthly extravaganza of epic proportions. 30th and 31st October.

Christmas time promises an equally magical theme but without the all the frights. Santa will be setting up his grotto from the 29th of November – make sure you remember your wish list.

The craft village is replete with over 60 different crafts; browse the different studios and watch the craftsmen at work. Whether you’re looking to buy or simply browse, it’s a lovely way to spend an hour or two.

Stay close to the farm in Billericay

Santa’s coming to Barleylands. Photo: Barleylands

I’ve been speaking to some other Essex experts: Visit Essex are great at letting visitors know exactly what they can expect during their trip and are a trove of information. They’ve provided me with plenty more ideas for family days out.

The Time Machine at the Leisurezone Harlow supplies a fusion of science and history. Kids and adults alike will be captivated by the interactive galleries; explore the human body, challenge your brain with puzzles and investigate the world of inventions, physics and forces. The highlight is The Pit, with shows awash with scientific chaos. This is the stuff that kids’ dreams are made of; expect loud explosions and some very excitable children.

Napoleonic battle reenactment at Waltham Abbey Royal Gunpowder Mills. Photo: Lisle45

For more explosive fun, check out the Royal Gunpowder Mills at Waltham Abbey. The history of gunpowder and rocket propellants is told through interactive displays, film and exhibitions that will take you on a journey spanning 300 years.

Visit the Armoury where there are over 200 historic firearms, while the Rocket Vault showcases some of the secret rockets that were developed in Waltham Abbey. You can also take part in hair-raising experiments in Professor Nitrates’ Mad Lab. Tours are available either by military vehicle or land train, taking you past a series explosive and intriguing locations.

I think that’s enough to be going on with for now – and not a spray-tan salon or night club in sight! Enjoy your visit to Essex; while you’re there, perhaps you can draw up your very own TOWIE list crammed with unmissable attractions.

Get into Essex

Rope Runners  Epping Ongar Railway  Barleylands    Visit Essex  Royal Gunpowder Mills

About the Author

Kirsti

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Kirsti Banyard lives in Hampshire and loves nothing more than spending time with her two sons and husband whether exploring Cornwall or perhaps further afield to enjoying a roast meal on a Sunday.

A new museum shows the modern side of Florence

December 18, 2014

Where to find the ancients in Rome: Tunnels, tombs and terrible history

December 4, 2014

The best places in Italy for first-time skiers

November 13, 2014

The question is not “Why holiday in a converted barn?”. It’s “Why not?” Admittedly, the whole pastoral charm factor is hard to discount. But barns make one-of-a-kind holiday homes for a number of other reasons: they favour unique, open layouts; they have often been remodelled to include cutting-edge amenities; and, of course, they are invariably situated in the middle of some enchanted fairyland meadow. At the very least, the sight of a converted barn, all clustered with flowers, its rustic exterior painstakingly preserved over centuries of use, can’t help but inspire the sort of cooing normally reserved for piles of small baby animals.

But, wait – there’s more. Besides their aesthetic qualities, barn holiday homes offer refuge from the stress of urban living; all that natural light and bucolic beauty works wonders for frayed nerves. But if you’re still sceptical, read on and explore some of HomeAway’s plushest converted barns. Be warned though: you will see something you love.

Southole Barns, England

Formerly employed as a Victorian-era monastery, Devon’s Southole Barns epitomise the noble architectural race to which they belong. They feature a perfect yin/yang combo of exquisitely weathered exteriors, and clean, modernised interiors incorporating traditional design elements. Their landscaping is storybook perfect (complete with resident ducks) and like the cherry on a cake, the entire property adorns an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Indeed, the scenic and celebrated South West Coastal Path is only a short walk away. Oh, and one more thing: Do you have an anniversary coming up (or would simply like to treat your honey to something special)? The Southoles feature reduced couples’ rates. Yes, you read that right.

Monte Casone, Italy

Looking for all the world like the setting for every romance novel ever, Tuscany’s Monte Casone is an Italophile’s dream. The property includes three rental units, two of which are refurbished barns. The barns boast traditional Mediterranean brick archways, tile floors and floods of light spilling in at every crevice. Appliances throughout are thoroughly modern, but the décor is chicly rustic. Bedrooms – as they ought to be in a barn – are simple but handsome. But Monte Cason’s biggest selling point is its spacious, shaded verandah, which looks out upon the rolling hills of sun-soaked Tuscany.

Barn at Copake Lake, USA

American holiday barns are notable for a robustness derived from the ruggedness of the landscape itself. They will especially endear themselves to those who can’t help but sigh at the prospect of endless wood finish, huntsman décor involving copious use of antlers and big wilderness. You’ll find all of these – including the archetypal American red exterior – at The Barn at Copake Lake. Three bedrooms, as many bathrooms, a living room that can be opened onto the back deck and everything furnished in a modern take on arts and crafts-style that will soothe your sophisticated side while tickling your inner woodsman.

Byron Boutique Barn, Australia

Only a holiday barn, I theorise, can be both cosy and spacious; that’s the secret to its charm. The Byron Boutique Barn combines the best elements of each. For example, the loft-style mezzanine bedroom, which descends by spiral staircase into the living room on one side, and looks out onto lush Australian scenery on three others, feels simultaneously intimate and open. Out of  doors, the Byron offers a large swimming pool (you know, for when the ten-minute drive to the bay is too far), and six green acres of attached countryside to explore – which Fido will love roaming, as the property is also pet-friendly.

Barne les Pommiers, France

Ah, la Normandie! This lush, orchard-strewn little corner of France boasts some of the nation’s most gorgeous and distinctive countryside. Not incidentally, it also boasts some absolutely enchanting barn holiday homes. Barne les Pommiers, in Beauval en Caux, is one such delight. With a distinguishing and enormous statement window, light is guaranteed in all seasons. The barn’s interior is roomy and modern, without skimping on the rustic detailing that makes a barn holiday home so cosy. There’s an entire covered game area in the back. Though it sleeps six, don’t expect to spend much time napping with an entire apple orchard to explore, and, not far off, the dramatic Normandy coast.

Flor da Ramila, Portugal

Rural Portugal is a natural choice for any traveller seeking the best the Mediterranean has to offer: the sunlit warmth of stone terraces among cork trees; excellent wine and food; and one of the richest and most distinct cultures in Europe. Flor da Ramila, situated in Serra de São Mamede national park, and just minutes from the charming fortified village of Marvão, is small and quaint – but the real story here is the elaborate terracing surrounding the barn, and the stunning pastoral beauty of its setting. A more romantic locale can hardly be imagined, perfect for languid, sunset walks with someone special.

Uckermark Barn, Germany

Uckermark barn’s cheery blonde wood interior is dominated not by its tastefully simple décor, but by the bright open spaces of the barn itself. It’s an excellent example of how a barn remodel needn’t end in either sterile modernism or rural kitsch. Particularly inviting is the vaulted ceiling of its upper floor, which includes a skylight to maximise sunlight and lift spirits. Of course, no barn holiday home would be complete without rolling green hills; Uckermark, in the German countryside, has these too in spades. While it only has one designated bedroom, it comfortably sleeps nine – perfect for families and small groups.

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About the Author

Russell Sanchez

Image: Flickr

409 years ago, a man tried to blow up the Houses of Parliament by placing a large amount of gunpowder beneath it. Spoiler: he failed. Still, Mr Fawkes’ glorious failure did have an upside to it…

Thanks to him, every November we get to light stuff, burn stuff and blow stuff up. Huge bonfires that tower precariously; soaring fireworks that flash and fizz; sparklers that sparkle and wooden pallets that burn.

His legacy doesn’t just end there. Thanks to Guy Fawkes, we’re annually forced to ponder such matters as:

Sparklers are great fun on bonfire night

“Is it wrong to put an effigy on top of my bonfire?”

“Will I make it through November without someone telling me Guy Fawkes was the last person to enter Parliament with honest intentions?”

And: “How can I avoid spending a fortune on fireworks without my kids thinking I’m a cheapskate?”

We can’t answer the first two questions, but as for the latter, we’ve got just the solution. We’ve trawled the nation’s parks to bring you the best Bonfire Night displays of 2014. Pick the closest one, wrap up warm and take the kids. Once the flames start licking, you’ll be off the hook and free to enjoy Guy Fawkes night without having to wear flame-retardent gloves and a pained expression.

Why break a sweat on 5th November when you can let someone else do the hard work? If Guy Fawkes had been a little smarter, he’d have surely done the same. Delegate, don’t detonate.

Billowing smoke and boom-boom-pow in Sussex

While November 5th is the traditional night for erecting structure fires and sword fighting with sparklers, events can begin up to a week in advance. Good news for budding pyros, who can savour consecutive nights of flaming fun.

Heyshott’s Bonfire Night is being held on Saturday 1st November 2014, with a 7pm procession followed by a fireworks display. A Punch and Judy show and a raffle are all part of the traditional event, which has been running for 60 years.

Gunpowder and treason in London

If any city’s got the right to celebrate Bonfire Night, it’s London, where Guy Fawkes attempted to host the original fireworks display in 1605. These days, you’ll struggle to find a bonfire sporting an effigy of the plotter because we supposedly live in more enlightened times. That’s OK though: why get tilted over political correctness when you can cast your eyes to the skies and take in a breathtaking display of fireworks over Alexandra Palace? The November 1st event is by no means the only display scheduled to blow in London, but Ally Pally’s might just be the biggest and best.

Natural beauty and unnatural fire in the Scottish Highlands

Image: Flickr

There are all kinds of reasons to visit the Highland capital of Inverness, from the enchanting views across Kessock Bridge to the prospect of spotting dolphins surfacing in the Moray Firth. Head there on November 5th however and your view may be impeded by a large plume of smoke; the town’s Bught Park hosts one of the largest bonfires in the country. Fire twirlers and the skirl of the pipes will get things started before the bonfire is lit at 7:30, followed by the obligatory fireworks. Gather on the shores of the River Ness and prepare to fill a camera phone with blurry pics you’ll never glance at again.

 Why let off damp squibs in the garden when you can watch someone else’s investment go up in smoke?  

Glowing embers and hot toddies in North and Central Scotland

Image: Flickr

When it comes to blowing things up, Scotland is a stickler for tradition. You wanna celebrate Bonfire Night? Then you shall do so on 5th November and not a moment before. Huge fireworks displays will be taking place on Glasgow Green, at Aberdeen Beach and Meadowbank in Edinburgh. Visit Scotland lists all the major Bonfire Night events. Whether you’re stationed on Calton Hill watching tracer fire explode over the capital, or huddled on Broad Hill as rockets illuminate Aberdeen Beach, the cold will eventually kick in. No amount of celestial splendour can mitigate the weather. In addition to the usual winter wear, try putting a couple of hand warmers in your kids’ pockets. They’ll thank you once the packs are activated and have begun dissipating their toasty goodness.

A very warm welcome atop a large pyre in Yorkshire

Image: Henry Perronet Briggs

Guy Fawks was born in York, giving the town reason enough to celebrate 5th November with gusto. Yorkshire might have a soft spot for the gunpowder plotter, but it certainly doesn’t impact upon the county’s enthusiasm for building colossal bonfires. If you like your fireworks to move to the music (or is it the other way round?), York Maze hosts a huge event on 5th November, with fireworks and a bonfire so large you could probably see it from space.

  Were Guy Fawkes alive today, he’d probably be strangely touched that so many gather to remember him faithfully each year  

Fizzing fireworks and exploding rockets in Hertfordshire

On November 1st, St Albans will resonate to the sound of munitions as its Fireworks Spectacular detonates in Verulamium Park. The annual event began 25 years ago with the goal of reducing firework accidents at home. Why let off damp squibs in the garden when you can watch someone else’s investment go up in smoke? The action starts at 7:30pm, with tickets priced at £5/£2 concessions.

Bonfire Night on the beach in Devon

Image: Flickr

While landlocked counties must content themselves with bangers and bonfires in the park, Devon gets to unleash the aerial ruckus from the beach. One of the region’s best family-friendly events, Shaldon Beach lights its bonfire at 6:30pm on 1st November, before the fireworks start popping off over The Point 45 minutes later. There’ll be stalls selling warming soup, burgers, sparklers and all the other essentials that epitomise the best elements of autumn. Were Guy Fawkes alive today (ignoring the major rewrite of history and science this would entail), he’d probably be strangely touched that so many gather to remember him faithfully each year – even if it’s for all the wrong reasons.

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About the Author

Kai

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Creative chaos.

Of all the human emotions, fear has to be the strangest. No one wants to feel afraid, and the idea of our children living in fear is, in itself, terrifying. Isn’t parenthood just a series of exercises in helping our kids overcome their fears? And yet, come Halloween, the no-fear rulebook goes out the window.

In a reassuringly safe environment – a cinema or haunted house – fear is an emotion we crave. Just as some people enjoy fiendishly spicy food, many of us get off on scaring ourselves. If the terror level is pitched just right, there’s something elating about feeling the hairs on the back of our neck start to rise, whilst knowing, deep down, that there’s nothing to fear.

So that’s the science of fear; now let’s see it in action through five holiday properties that conceal a haunting past. This Halloween, bring your partner or gather your family and prepare to confront the things that go bump in the night. Remember, fear is all in the mind. There’s nothing in these properties to be afraid of….right?

A regal retreat in the Cotswolds – but mind the ghost

There are many reasons to want to stay in Painswick’s Court House Manor. The Grade I listed home dates back centuries and is utterly resplendent, from its immaculate grounds and period features, to the grand dining hall, seven bedrooms and jacuzzi.

Any reasons not to stay in the manor? Er…nothing really. Well, aside from the ghost. Every historic home worth its salt has a spectral figure associated with it, but Court House Manor’s has more clout than most. Its gardens are reputed to be haunted by a guest who frequented the property during the 1643 Siege of Gloucester. His name? King Charles I. If you’re going to stay in a haunted home, choose one with a superior calibre of ghost.

Jeepers creepers – what else is occupying this Scottish castle?

Most horror is all in the mind. Master the psychology of terror and you’ve got nothing to fear. Of course that’s easier said than done, especially when you’re staying in a castle like this.

On the surface, everything is perfect, and yet, when night falls, it’s hard to shake that goose-bumpy, spine-tingling feeling. Don’t worry; whatever happens you’ll be just fine – with space to sleep 13, there’ll be more than enough friends and family to ensure you make it through till morning. Don’t get too congratulatory when dawn comes though – the next night you’ve got to do it all over again.

Go for the jugular and hit Whitby

Whitby, Whitby… What’s Whitby synonymous with again? Oh, that’s right: only the creepiest and most enduring villain of all time. Dracula has been terrorising fertile imaginations since Victorian times, and the Count still looms large today. Try checking into Vanguard, a lighthouse keeper’s cottage that overlooks the whitewashed town. Close by lies the ruined abbey that inspired Bram Stoker’s fiendish creation, and which hosts suitably spooky Halloween-themed events. While in Whitby, avoid embarrassing yourself by asking for directions to Dracula’s grave. Apparently that actually happens. Even more terrifying than Stoker’s vampire novel is the fact that some people believe it was all real.

Cabin fever in the Chiltern Hills

Horror can rise from the most innocuous of places; a blissful rural retreat; a scenic log cabin; even in the hot tub. If you’ve even seen one horror film, you’ll understand this basic trope: everything is OK at the start. As you step into this one-bedroom holiday cabin, nestled on a private estate, everything should be better than OK – it should be idyllic. Indeed, as you sink into the hot tub with a glass of fizz, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d just found the best place in the world. And perhaps you have.

Still, with the Midsomer Murders town of Wallingford (and former home of murder mistress Agatha Christie) just two miles away, you’ll certainly have food for thought. Tragedy is born out of beauty and terror can stem from tranquility. Regardless of what happens on your cabin holiday, you’ll want to leave the kids behind – this shack sports an adults-only certificate.

What happens on the Moors stays buried on the Moors

Both in real life and in fiction, the North Yorkshire Moors hold their share of secrets. While undoubtedly beautiful, they’re also a desolate, isolated place, where civilisation is but a word and only the strongest survive. The Moors doggedly keep their secrets, resisting each generation’s attempts to uncover them. Speaking of secrets, Ingleby Manor must have witnessed its share of dark deeds over the centuries. The grade II building, which sleeps six, was the country home of one of Henry VIII’s courtiers. Its 50 acres of exquisite gardens give way to the untamed fury of the moors and all that lurks upon them.

About the Author

Kai

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Creative chaos.

A new museum shows the modern side of Florence

December 18, 2014

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December 4, 2014

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IMAGE EXPERIENCE NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

Viscid leaves squish underfoot. New arrivals flutter then crunch as they kiss the asphalt and press with plimsolls. Oranges and yellows. Bare boughs and piles of mulch. Houndstooth scarves and pumpkin lattes. Brace yourself for a fall – autumn is coming.

We feel the changing season in our bones, but we also see it, fluttering through the parks and woodlands. Our smartphones and smart cars can tell us the temperature, but they can’t tell us when the time is right to celebrate autumn with the first woodland walk of the season. When it comes, you’ll know, just as you’ll know to wrap the kids up and pack a flask of hot cocoa – with an optional nip, just for the adults.

IMAGE FODMTB

Seasons change

Not all woodland walks are alike. Just as every tree is unique, so is every trail. Some are twistier. Some are leafier. And others are irreducibly enchanting. We’ve picked five forest walks that are family-friendly and utterly beautiful. Step into your wellies and wind that scarf up tight – it’s time to kick up some leaves.

1. Ramble through the pines

When it comes to exploring the countryside, Britain’s walking charity knows more than most. Ramblers are on a mission to get as many people as possible out walking, and who can fault their goal?

The charity lists great coastal, moorland and forest trails the length and breadth of the country along with advice on keeping safe while out and about. One of the most enchanting routes it cites traverses Scotland’s ancient pinewoods, while a stunning trail can be found at Glen Affric. This Forestry Commission-owned plot has graded trails that rise into the mountains and plummet to pass lochs and glens woven with purple heather. Keep your eyes peeled for golden eagles soaring overhead and listen out for the familiar tap-tap of woodpeckers.

As you stride deeper into the woods, the sweet scent of pine needles will linger in the air, mixing with the wood pulp and organic aroma of ant nests, the soil resonant with petrichor. The crooked skeletons of the ancient pines resemble prehistoric fossils, dipped in amber and frozen in time.

2. Follow the way of the woods

IMAGE NATIONAL FOREST

The 75-mile National Forest Way spans parts of Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Staffordshire, and explores the varied and fascinating landscape of The National Forest. Try the central section through South Derbyshire’s ancient woodlands, where you can learn about the transformation of the area from clay extraction and coal mining to beautiful new woodlands.

Children will enjoy the boardwalks though Hartshorne Bog and the dingly-dell woodlands at Carvers Rocks, where sheer lumps of gritstone rear out of the ground, bringing weekend climbers seeking to try their skills. Continue through to Foremark Reservoir with its sparkling expanse of water complete with waterfowl and sailing boats, wide green spaces to enjoy and a play area to let off steam.

At this time of year, The National Forest is at its best. As the early morning mist dissipates through the trees, the golds and reds of the changing foliage shine through. The mist-laced trails are wet with leaves. Watch your breath hang in the air.  Autumn is here and it sure feels good.

3. Conquer Nottinghamshire’s oak forest

IMAGE EXPERIENCE NOTTINGHAM

Autumn is all about colours and sounds. The urgent insistence of a stiff breeze; the to-and-fro of leaves, raked into piles and then swept every which way by capricious gusts. There’s nothing stopping you from venturing into Nottinghamshire’s woodlands alone, but they’re best conquered as part of a team. Bring reinforcements, because exquisite experiences were made to be shared, and there’s nothing prettier than acre after acre of mature English oak, dripping autumnal colours as they brace themselves for the onslaught of winter.

IMAGE EXPERIENCE NOTTINGHAM

Families visiting the East Midlands county are spoilt for choice, with some of England’s best walks just a picnic hamper and a pair of stout hiking boots away. Clumber Park’s lime tree avenue, the longest of its kind in Europe, is special at this time of year, though Highfields Park at the University of Nottingham also warrants a mention. This lakeside route winds through the woods before finishing up at a quaint cafe where the scones are as fine as the scenery. Finally, no visit to Nottinghamshire would be complete without taking a prowl through Sherwood Forest. As the oaks start to turn, this magical woods exudes a dappled calm.

You’re not limited to merely walking through the county’s forests either. Families can experience a Segway tour at Sherwood Pines or cycle a popular route around Sherwood Pines forest before checking into a luxury forest cabin. A wood-burning fire and hot tub will complete a tranquil weekend that’s all about nature.

4. Delve into the Forest of Dean

IMAGE FODMTB

Some trails were made to hiked. Others were made to be biked. There’s nothing stopping you from walking through one of England’s most ancient woodlands, but biking is much more fun. No one knows their way through this dense arboreal triangle better than Forest of Dean MTB. The biking crew live for the thrill of pelting down trails and bouncing over tree-stumps, but that doesn’t mean they’ve only got an eye for gnarly stretches. FoD MTB recommend trails that are suitable for riders of all abilities, including a number of family-friendly routes.

You can take it sedate, with a languid Sunday cycle through the forest or you can up the gears and brace yourself for a punishing ride over cross country trails. You pick the route and you dictate the pace. The Forest of Dean’s byways, bridleways and single track were made to be explored. Get in the saddle, pack some provisions and prepare for an epic family ride through the Gloucestershire countryside.

5. Branch out and explore the Brecon Beacons

IMAGE BRECON BEACONS

Another woodland, another plea to visit at the height of autumn. Birdsong, wild flowers and babbling brooks will accompany your peregrinations through the Welsh woods and up into the snow-capped mountains. From the highest peak in Southern Britain to the depths of caves that yawn like chasms amidst the verdant forests, the Brecon Beacons are full of wonder. In this idyllic part of the world, the flora is pretty and the fauna is plentiful. Look out for Welsh mountain ponies, horseshoe bats, red grouse and, hovering silently overhead, red kites.

One of the most picturesque Welsh woodland walks lies in Coed-y-Cerrig National Nature Reserve. The small woods of Coed-y-Cerrig is tucked away at the foot of the valley. A bustling railway once wound through this unusual alder woodland before burrowing into the mountain, its carts laden with materials for the Grwyne Fawr reservoir that was under construction.

Powys and Brecon Beacon holiday lets

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Summer may be gone, but look on the bright side – here’s autumn, announcing its arrival with all the subtlety of a deranged Jack Nicholson. Embrace the elements, feel the wind rustle the trees, kick the leaves, cherish time with your family, love life.

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Enchanting family forest walks

Ramblers Scotland  The National Forest  Experience Nottingham  Forest of Dean MTB  Brecon Beacons

Chase the leaves

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About the Author

Kai

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Creative chaos.

A new museum shows the modern side of Florence

December 18, 2014

Where to find the ancients in Rome: Tunnels, tombs and terrible history

December 4, 2014

The best places in Italy for first-time skiers

November 13, 2014