In this video you will see what can happen sometimes when a homeowner has to, or thinks he has to make a quick fix which then becomes a permanent solution to the problem. The problem is that over time, these types of fixes can result in failure and cause some serious water problems. I recommended to the prospective home owner that he get a plumber into the property to properly plumb the external hose faucet to meet today’s requirements.

This video shows an improper exterior electrical installation.  The past homeowner needed electrical power to the outside, so he went ahead and drilled a hole through a basement window frame and ran a wire through it.  The hole wasn’t sealed, so outside air, bugs and possibly moisture could enter the home.  In addition the wiring was not exterior rated, and it should have been in a conduit.  The upside is that the electrical box was an exterior rated box, however, the outlet was not ground faulted to protect against electrical shock.

In the attached video you will see a deck that has had years of neglect and deferred maintenance.   As a result, there are many issues that need attention. There is rot and fungal growth in the wood on the end plates and joists. The railinga all around the deck were loose as the bolts securing the railing to the structure had backed out. This was a foreclosure home, and had been sitting empto for some time. Upon discussing the deck with the homebuyer, he stated that they were going to remove the old deck and build a larger one.

In the attached video, you will see a loose hose faucet at the rear of a home on a recent home inspection I performed.   What can happen as a result of this hose faucet being loose is that as it moves within the wall it can put stresses on the solder joints. Over time this movement can result in a solder joint cracking and leaking. I have recommended to the homeowner that the hose faucet be re-secured to the house to eliminate the movement. A couple of screws through the slots in the housing should secure the hose faucet adequately to the home.

Minor issues with a broken storm door can just be something that blends into the daily noise in our lives.  Sticking, slamming,flying open in the wind are a few issues that we face with our doors.  A careful inspection of your storm door will help you to determine what may need to be fixed or replaced.

Rather than replace, sometimes storm doors can be fixed.  This is more economical that full replacement.  If your door is slamming shut, it is probably because the hydraulic closer is broken.  This is the tubular device that attaches to the door and door frame.  Its purpose is to pull the door shut in a controlled manner.  It can be adjusted to close smoothly.  If you cannot adjust the closer, it may be time to replace it.    

Latching issues will allow the door to come loose in the wind, resulting in slamming against the house.  Adjusting the catch on the door frame so that the latch assembly can engage properly should be your first effort.  If this doesn’t solve the problem, the latch assembly may need to be replaced.

If the door sticks and is hard to open, make an inspection of the door frame.  The frame could be out of square.  These thin aluminum frames are easily distorted if not properly installed or if they are damaged.  Screws can be prone to loosening over time.  Check for squareness and make sure that all screws are properly secured. 

Sometimes the problems with a door can be beyond repair.  It’s time to replace you storm door. 

Storm door prices can start under $100, but typically can cost a lot more than that. The more expensive storm doors are made from extruded aluminum and come with many great features. Some of the more popular features are the built-in or hide-away screen. Instead of having to replace the window with the screen every time the season changes, you can simply slide the glass down and the screen rolls out.

Less expensive screen doors will have options as well.  Make sure to check out all of your options before making your selection.  Choosing the least expensive storm door may not be your best choice.   A super inexpensive aluminum door will also be thin and won’t take heavy traffic well. Often the door has a wood core and a thin aluminum skin that can dent very easily. Plus, some doors are put together so cheaply they will rattle in the wind even if they fit correctly. Make the investment for a good quality door and you’ll find it will last longer and hold up to more abuse.

There are lots of options as storm doors come in many styles.  They can be special ordered in a wide range of custom colors and designs. The choices for your new storm door can be almost endless.

Now comes the question of installation.  Some of the big box retailers that sell the storm doors often have professionals that can install your door for you for $100-$200. If you have a limited budget and are confident in your Do-It –Yourself skills, put the extra money into getting a better door and do the installation yourself. It is really not that difficult.  Also note that is doesn’t hurt to have a helper for this project.

Don’t let that old storm door slam, bang, or squeek through another winter.  Add some beauty and energy efficiency to your home.

This problem can occur, when the metal anode rod, (cathodic protection device), combines with a waterborne sulfate reducing bacteria.  The result of this chemical reaction is hydrogen sulfide.  This is where the rotten egg smell comes from.  Although the smell is a little, well maybe a lot, hard to get over, it is not harmful to consume. 

There are a few potential solutions that can resolve this issue.

First, you can try replacing the metal anode rod with a new one.  If your anode rod is magnesium, try using an aluminum one if available.  Aluminum anode rods will produce 30% less current, thus reducing the generation of hydrogen gas.  There will still be enough current to protect the glass liner of your water heater. 

Secondly, determine the source of the sulfate reducing bacteria and eliminate it.  The sulfate reducing bacteria can be introduced into your water heater via soil contaminated water supply lines.  As the supply line flushes out, the contaminant can end up in the bottom of your water heater.  Thorough flushing of your water heater should solve the problem, (unless of course it is re-contaminated).  First, shut off the water supply to your water heater and drain using the drain at the bottom of the unit.  You should get some sediment, etc . You may want to refill and drain again to get rid of any remaining sediment.  Second, add a quarter cup of chlorine bleach per 10 gallons of water and refill your water heater. Open all hot water taps and allow the solution to flow through the pipes until you smell the chlorine exiting from the taps.  Let the solution sit in the water heater for approximately 1 hour.  Again, shut off the water supply and drain the water heater using the drain at the bottom of the unit.  Opening the hot water taps will allow all chlorine solution to drain back to the water heater.  Fill the water heater a third time, flush the hot water lines, and drain again.  Finally, fill your water heater and flush the lines a final time. 

This should do the trick, and the rotten egg smell should be gone.  The hydrogen gas produced by your anode rod, without the presence of the sulfate reducing bacteria is not a problem and will go unnoticed.  If the sulfate reducing bacteria is re-introduced, the smell will return.  If this happens, you should have your water source analyzed to determine if it is the source of the bacteria.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942

You have found some mold in your home and now you have questions. Is it possible for me to get rid of it, or do you need to call in a professional mold remediation company? 

There are situations where you can remediate, or halt the mold growth on your own.  Remediation is removal of contaminated and/or hazardous materials from your home.  If the problem is small, a good dousing of bleach should stop the mold infestation.  If the invasion is less than ten square feet, you can probably attack the problem on your own and do the repairs. 

There is one thing to remember though. Even though bleach can kill the mold, once the spore is dead it can still release harmful toxins into the air of your home. You must also consider that the fumes in bleach chloride are not the healthiest things for your lungs either.  The bleach you buy in the stores is watered down.  It has to be or it would be a public hazard to handle. And what does mold like? You guessed it, water.  While bleach can do some good, it is not the most reliable method of mold remediation. 

Antibacterial products are effective deterrent to mold growth. They will retard mold growth, but will not prevent dried (even dead) mold spores form floating in the air, releasing toxins and causing health problems in some people. However, once the mold and its’ source are removed, antibacterial gels can be a good deterrent to future mold infestations. 

So, how do you know if you got it all? Mold and mildew can seep into microscopic cracks and porous materials.  There are a lot of places in your house that are porous – concrete slabs, drywall, wood and brick, etc.   It may be worth it to call in a professional who handle this stuff on a daily basis. 

Both the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Center of Disease Control (CDC)  have explicit standards and instructions on how to remove mold.  A respirator  ( N-95 dust mask) should be worn at all times in the presence of mold per the EPA.  If the mold is spread over 30 square feet, the regulations state that you have a choice whether to call in a professional or to let a cleaning or maintenance company handle the job. More than 30 square feet and it is always best to contact a professional mold remediation company. 

Not only do you have to stop the mold, you also have to stop the entrance of moisture into your home. If you can keep the mold from growing back, your battle is won. The EPA has a list of registered chemicals and even biodegradable substances specifically for mold remediation . These are contained in anti-bacterial sealants that professionals must registered to handle and trained to use.  The professional mold remediation technician may need to use methods of sanding or other abrasive techniques to help the sealant stick.  Let them. You should be wary of companies that just want to spray a filmy substance before the moldy or dirt laden surfaces are cleaned and treated.  There are several tings to consider when dealing with mold:  Invasive treatment v/s non-invasive treatment. Treat or tear it all out. As a home owner, how would you know what is best?  It may be in your best interest to contact a local mold remediation company.

So how do you find a reputable mold remediator?  Visit their web site.  Make sure they are using EPA approved equipment, chemicals and HEPA filtration devices. Check their permits and references. Check for nationally recognized accreditations or associations.  Also keep in mind that with all the scare out there pertaining to mold in homes, there are some flim-flam artists out there ready to prey on worried home owners.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

In plumbing system, a trap is located below plumbing fixtures to prevent sewer gasses from entering the building. You will see in the attached video from a recent home inspection that there is what is referred to as an “S” Trap. In many locations, plumbing codes do not allow “S” Traps as they are prone to siphon out the water seal even if properly vented, thus allowing sewer gassed to escape into the building. The accepted type of trap is called a “P” Trap.  Your home inspectors report should document where “S” traps are in use.