Forum Topics at HomeRefurbers.com

Where to buy T1-11 CEDAR siding in atlanta?

gary7 — Wed, 15 May 2013 23:24:08 GMT

I need to do some repair work done on my siding. It’s T1-11 Cedar siding, and apparently it’s difficult to find in the Atlanta area – I’ve been told that T1-11 is available in pine plywood, but that the cedar version only comes in 4” or 8” centers. Anyone know where I can buy cedar T1-11 in Atlanta?

Faceframe cabinet question.

crank49 — Wed, 15 May 2013 18:56:54 GMT

I am building my first kitchen cabinets.

I plan to have 2” stiles for my face frame, but the bottom rail of the wall cabinet will be 2 1/2” wide so I can have counter lighting under the cabinets.

The doors will have a 1/2” lap.

If I keep the reveal equal around the doors, that means the doors will have a wider lap across the bottom.

Is this normal, or is it done some other way?

waterfall butcherblock island - design concerns

kenzaburo — Wed, 15 May 2013 01:05:02 GMT

Hi all,

I am new to this forum. For about four years I’ve been doing a lot of remodelling from framing, to plumbing, electrical and building some simple furniture. Jack of many trades, master of none.

For my next project I want build and island/table out of 1.5” butcherblock (see first image).
I have two 1.5”x73”x39” oak butcherblocks (of which one will be cut in half) On one side, there will be two back-to-back cabinets (for a total of 36”x36” fooprint) and the other side will be used as a table, with higher bar stools.

My main concern: will the butcherblock sag over time for that 36”x39” unsupported span where the stools will be?
Do I need an angle steel frame to support that? maybe two 1”x1”x1/8” angle metal 12” from the edge along with long side of the island and 3 or 4 that run perpendicular on that (to create a torsion box)? (see 2nd image)

Also, I don’t want to miter the two slab edges. What are my choices for connecting the vertical and horizontal butcherblock pieces on the table side in a sturdy manner? Dowels? Epoxy? Another angle metal piece with pre-drilled holes for countersinking the screws? (Don’t really like the look of dovetails) The angle metal can be painted black and would be ok since it’s not really visible.

The floors are sealed concrete. What are some options for connecting the wood slab to the floor? Metal dowels?

Thanks a lot and looking forward to learn.

Kenzaburo

Use an Apron Sink

Johnmarrison — Tue, 14 May 2013 07:42:23 GMT

Hello Friends,

Apron sinks, or farmhouse sinks, fulfilled the needs of large families when first introduced into the kitchen. The large basin was a necessity for washing large cooking utensils. As kitchen designs evolved and family sizes decreased, the need for large sinks lessened. Apron sinks can still serve the homeowner as a functional as well as distinctive kitchen feature. Get close to the sink and faucets, which eliminates the need to stretch across a front countertop. When faced with seemingly endless hours of standing in front of a sink, an apron sink will ease the pressure on your back, with less reaching to control the faucets.

Thanks & Regards
John marrison

What type of finish is on my table?

Handymam — Tue, 14 May 2013 07:22:06 GMT

I have a 10 year old wood dining table that was made by Keller Furniture Company (no longer in business). We love this table because if a water ring appears, it will dry on it’s own without leaving a mark. Unbeknownst to us before too late, water stood under a plant long enough to raise the grain on the table. As always, there is no visible water ring, but the area is rough. I’d like to refinish this table to repair this damage, but don’t know what finish it currently has that allows it to resist water rings in this manner.

Does anyone know what this might be? Tung oil? Poly? Lacquer? Whatever it is, it has served us well!

Bypass door loaded header calculator

NY_Rocking_Chairs — Sat, 11 May 2013 12:27:33 GMT

I am finishing off part of the basement and am putting bypass doors to enclose the furnace/hot-water-heater/storage area. I am looking at a 14’ span with about 300lbs of load on the header due to the custom bypass doors.

I am struggling to find a reference or calculator to determine what size lumber to use for the header based on the span/load.

Any help would be most appreciated.

No, I am not locked into a 14’ span and can put a central support in place to cut the span in half, but would prefer to keep the entire 14’ open.

Looking for Samsung Air Conditioner Repair Service

bricebelton — Fri, 10 May 2013 12:22:02 GMT

In my house, we are having Samsung air conditioner and few days back it stopped working, and I think something is wrong with your AC, and I am looking for air conditioner repair services. As it is a scorching summer season and the temperatures are increasing gradually, it is quite tough stay with out the AC’s. Then I approached my friend, and she suggested me to go for “imperialapplianceservices” and said that she also got repaired her AC over there and said that they can repair all types of equipment from microwaves and dishwashers to commercial refrigerators and freezers.

Does anyone have any idea about that company services? If so, please share your views.
Thanks in advance.

Entry of a Newcomer

Johnmarrison — Fri, 10 May 2013 07:41:45 GMT

Good Wishes to Everyone,

Let me introduce myself to this community, I am John Marrison, very new to this community, I want to be a member of this forum by participating in the discussion forum and also want to share my views and suggestion regarding various topics of this forum. I hope you all will support me throughout the discussion.

Thanks and Regards
John Marrison

Pavers and gravel patio?

rhybeka — Sun, 05 May 2013 17:44:22 GMT

Hey All!

Just trying to find out if anyone out there has done a paver/gravel patio? I’ve currently got one all 12×12 concrete paver patio, but it really needs some help so I’d like to redo it and reduce the number of pavers and add some ‘color’ to it with the gravel. something like this : ” http://www.houzz.com/photos/149976/Stylechik-and-Simply-Functional-DIY-ers-modern-patio-tampa":http://www.houzz.com/photos/149976/Stylechik-and-Simply-Functional-DIY-ers-modern-patio-tampa just on a much larger scale. I’m thinking about bordering it with railroad ties or possibly cedar if it’s not too expensive. I’m also hoping to reuse most of the base that’s underneath the pavers currently, but we’ll see if that’s any good after some healthy dosing of roundup. :)

Wood floor finish for 3 season room

sprucegum — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 21:53:01 GMT

I will be remodeling our porch into a 3 season room. I had planned to use tile on the floor but I am now thinking about using some elm lumber that I salvaged from a beautiful tree that once grew in our yard. I will still use tile in the high traffic area. Just wondering if anyone has any great ideas for a super durable finish, it will get plenty of use and there is always the possibility of some rain blowing in on when we get one of the many quick thunder storms that happen frequently in the summer. I can have the lumber KD and T & G to make a real tight job and think I would seal all four sides with at least one coat before installation. Does anyone have a favorite product that might work? My best thought so far is spar polyurethane.