Forum Topics at HomeRefurbers.com

Expert opinion wanted on 20'x14' deck

JMG — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 21:59:06 GMT

I am building a 20’x14’ deck on the back of a house. The deck will be about 9’-10’ off the ground and the homeowner dosen’t want any posts under the deck, only around the edge. I have decided to use 2”x12”x14’ for my joists on a 16” center. A drop sill under the joists is also not an option. Will my deck be bouncy, or will I end up with a solid structure?

Sanding Cabinet Doors

Sgt_Lobo — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 18:16:05 GMT

Hi all,

I haven’t posted here before, but this looks like a great resource for information, so hopefully someone here can help me with a little problem I’m having.

I am trying to decide if I want to re-finish my kitchen cabinets myself. I removed one of the doors and began sanding off the old finish. The wood appears to be red oak and seems to be in decent shape.

I’m using an orbital sander for the majority of the door, but it can only get so much. My question is, what is the best way to sand in the corners and the rounded edges without doing it by hand? I was thinking along the lines of a detail sander or a flap wheel hooked up to my drill? If you all have a better method, I’d appreciate the knowledge.

Here are some pictures of what I have so far…Thanks in advance for the advice.

Jim

OOPS!!! Latex Stain on Cedar

fredf — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 16:43:48 GMT

I made the mistake of staining cedar shingles with a latex based stain. They are now badly pealing due to the latex not adhering to the oil in the cedar I suspect.

What would be the best way to get the latex stain off so we can re stain with an oil based stain?? we have access to a pressure washer, but I think that we would need something to loosen up the parts of the stain that are kind of adhering. I am thinking of something akin to an citrus based cleaner, does anyone have a better idea??? We are talk about 300 square feet or so of area, about half of which is over a deck

fred

yard gate..

Estley — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 15:12:51 GMT

I have to put new gates on both sides of my yard, the existing ones basically fell appart. I’m planning on making them with cedar pickets. One of the sides is not a problem, it’s a 10ft wide opening and the grade where the gate would be is relatively flat. The other side however does pose a problem, the opening is just over 8ft (100 inches), and the grade pitches down away from the house about 10-12 inches over that width. so, what are my options here?

Doors & Windows in N.E. Philly...

Estley — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 03:09:59 GMT

I just bought a house, and I’m trying to put together a list of good places to shop for renovation/remodeling stuff in N.E. Philly/Bucks county. In the short term I’m looking for a good place to get windows, doors and that sort of thing in, Any suggestions?

Tile underlayment mortar bed mix

Dr_Unix — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 02:08:55 GMT

Can anyone recommend a mortar mix for a 3/4” thick underlayment for a tiling project? The only one I’ve seen so far is 1 part Portland cement to 3 parts sand. I’ll be using wire lathe, but I’m still concerned about cracking.

Thanks,
Mark

How can I make concrete look like natural stone?

Roz — Fri, 22 May 2009 16:27:53 GMT

Hello everybody, I am Roz and have been using Lumber jocks for some time. This is my first foray into Home Refurbishes.
My wife and I are restoring an 1860’s home and I want to create a brick paved patio in the small area between the house and my shop. In this patio I would like to set a mill stone. I have not found one that I felt I could afford.

My idea is to make a stone from concrete. What I don’t know is how to finish the concrete to make it look like natural stone and how best to make the required groves in the surface. I would like the concrete to resemble granite, sand stone or other natural material.

Do any of you have recommendations?

Removing veneer?

montela — Wed, 20 May 2009 07:26:38 GMT

Want to refinish a night table. It has a veneer coating which has cracked and chipped. I’d like to get it off.
Any suggestions,

Tile underlayment problem...help!

Dr_Unix — Sun, 17 May 2009 17:06:17 GMT

Here is my problem, I’ve got a 4” (?) thick concrete sill that runs through the center of my foyer. It was the threshold for where the front door used to be. The previous owner poured a self leveling cement slab before laying tiles. Since the sill and wood move at different rates eventually the underlayment cracked and disintegrated. Check out the picture for a better visual:

On either side of the concrete is plywood (3/4” I think) decking. Plus I have the stairs and doorway to contend with, So I can’t lay a deep layer of mud.

What I would like to do is put radiant heating in the floor because it’s really cold in this entryway. Does anyone have any ideas? Should I get a jackhammer and remove the sill?

Thanks for the help.
Mark

emergency product are they really safe

bigbarry — Wed, 13 May 2009 09:15:07 GMT

Hi to all, I was very interested to purchase http://www.stormtec.net/ but some friend of mine told me that it’s doesn’t seem trustfu but I need some expert advice. Thanks