Doing a bathroom exhaust fan install can be tedious.

But I’ll do my best to make it easy and give you step-by-step instructions with supply lists.

Plus, the fan I’m installing is one of the best. It’s the Panasonic Whisper Green Select.

The great thing about this fan is that it has power, an adjustable light, and a modern style.

It’s a great upgrade for any bathroom.

Preparation and Planning

Step 1 is choosing the right location for your bathroom exhaust fan.

This is especially critical if you’re adding a new fan or relocating an existing one.

It’s important to place the fan close to the highest moisture area.

Normally, this is the shower or bathtub in a bathroom.

Ideally, the fan should be slightly outside the shower area and centered on at least one wall.

Also, consider the bathroom lighting if your fan has an LED light.

The Panasonic Whisper Green Select I’m installing has an adjustable LED light that can match the recessed lights.

But I want the fan light to distribute light evenly in the bathroom, so I chose the location based on that goal.

Step 2 is the layout, which depends on the ceiling joists.

Find the ceiling joist orientation. This can be done in one of two ways.

The first way is by going into the attic and seeing what direction the joists run.

The second is easier (in some homes), and that’s to use a stud finder on the drywall.

Typically, but not always, ceiling joists are 16 inches on center from each other.

Also, ensure there’s room to run the ductwork up to the roof. I like to run the ductwork straight up if possible. More on that later.

Step 3 is turning off the power to the electrical line that will supply power.

Do this at the breaker. It’s helpful to have a partner or circuit breaker finder kit.

Just be sure the power is turned off; it’s not fun being electrocuted.

Proper planning makes everything a lot easier.

Cutting the Exhaust Fan Hole

I like to drill a small reference hole in the ceiling. This helps me see where the fan will go once it’s up in the attic.

It should barely penetrate the drywall or plaster, just in case there’s an electrical wire or plumbing above.

I try to center this outline on the bathroom’s length or width, and make it equidistant in relation to the walls.

Then I trace the fan body dimensions on the ceiling and cut it out using a drywall saw or oscillating multi-tool.

Here’s a Pro Tip,

If the hole is slightly too small, use a drywall rasp to make it bigger.

The fan body’s flange should overhang the drywall. That’s important for the next step with a Panasonic fan.

Installing the Fan Bracket

Panasonic fans come with a Flex-Z Fast bracket.

This can fold and extend 16 to 24 inches inside the attic joist bay.

There’s an orientation to this bracket, so pay attention to the UP stamp when installing it.

I fasten the bracket to the joists with the provided screws (all four) and ensure it’s flush against the ceiling.

The goal is to center the bracket on the opening so that the fan’s adapter and body can be installed properly.

Adding Ductwork

Most Panasonic fans have two major parts: the adapter and the fan body.

I like to run the ductwork and electrical wire to the adapter before installing it.

Here are the supplies you need for the ductwork:

• Insulated ductwork (4-inch or 6-inch)
• Warm drive clamps (2)
• Screwdriver
• Foil tape

Place one warm drive clamp over the ductwork and tighten it against the adapter outlet.

Then use foil tape to seal the ductwork and prevent air leaks.

I do the same thing for the bathroom exhaust vent, which should be ventilated through the roof, soffit, or side of the home.

The next step is the electrical, and you might be surprised at how easy it can be.

Wiring the Fan

All the bathroom exhaust fan wiring is done inside Panasonic’s Whisper Green Select adapter.

There’s an electrical box that has three sets of wires.

One set powers the fan, another powers the light, and a third set is for special accessories that can control things like humidity.

Here are the supplies you need for the wiring:

• Romex cable connector
• Wire nuts
• Wire stripper
• Rocker light switch (15 Amp)

I wanted to keep this fan functionality as easy as possible for my clients.

I used a 14/3 wire and pigtailed all the neutrals together, along with the ground wires. Then I used the 14/3 black and red wire to power the fan and light, respectively.

I capped the red module wires and the blue night light wire.

Then I used two light switches inside the electrical box.

One powers the fan and the other powers the light, both independent of each other.

I like using rocker light switches because they look more modern and are easier to use.

Ensure the light switch is rated properly for the circuit breaker being used.

By the way, if you’re interested in a fan that also has a heater, I recommend the Panasonic Whisper Cozy.

But the wiring for a heated fan is a little different than this one.

Once the adapter is wired, the rest is very straightforward.

Fan Adapter and Body Installation

The Panasonic Whisper Green Select adapter has an L-shaped channel

The channel slides under the drywall ceiling when the adapter is pushed into the attic.

Then I use the self-drilling screws provided with the fan to fasten the adapter to the Flex-Z Fast bracket.

After the adapter is installed, I slide the fan body into it until I hear a click.

I secure the fan body to the Flex-Z Fast bracket using the second set of self-drilling screws.

Here’s an important step,

Secure the machine screw through the fan body and adapter to complete the ground continuity.

This screw had to be removed to separate the fan body from the adapter. So don’t lose it!

Plug the connector into the receptacle and adjust the CFM with the Pick-A-Flow switch.

What makes the Panasonic Whisper Green Select awesome compared to other fans is the LED grill.

LED Grill Installation

The grill for this Panasonic fan has a large 5-color changing LED light module.

The light color can be adjusted with a dial, and I match the color to the recessed lights in bathrooms.

Then I slide the springs up into the fan body and place the grill flush against the ceiling.

I gotta say, this light is fantastic and really makes the bathroom look more high-end.

If you’re remodeling a bathroom or looking for a great upgrade, consider the Panasonic WhisperGreen Select – I think you’d love it.

If you want to unlock all my bathroom remodeling videos, courses, and personal coaching, join Home Repair Tutor today – it’s one of the best online resources for anyone renovating a bathroom. Tap the button below to learn more

Jeff

Not so much.

You need to know what tools to use and when.

Unfortunately, that’s also not enough because you need to know how to use those tools.

I’ll share what tools I like best for cutting porcelain and how to make them perform like a Ferrari.

Basics for Cutting Porcelain Tile

Cutting tile depends on the cut you need and the type of tile.

For example, making a miter joint requires different tools than your standard straight cut.

If I need to make a straight cut, I’ll use my manual snap cutter.

Heck, I’ve used my manual cutter exclusively along with a grinder and polishing pad for many projects.

I’ve been using Montolit’s Masterpiuma for years. It’s not cheap, but it cuts a variety of tiles.

If I need to notch tiles around a curb or wall, normally I use my grinder, wet saw, or IQ saw.

There are pros and cons for each tool.

I’ll explain.

Manual Snap Cutter (Straight Cuts)

It’ll take a lot to convince that a great manual snap cutter isn’t the best tool for porcelain.

First, they’re fast to set up and don’t create a mess like wet saws.

Second, they fit in small spaces like inside showers and on countertops.

Third, they’re quiet compared to wet saws – which is great if someone is working from home.

Finally, they’re easy to use. Here’s a rundown of how I use my Montolit Masterpiuma

• Measure and mark: Draw the cut lines on the tile with a pencil
• Position the tile: Place the tile on the cutter and align the mark under the scoring wheel
• Score the tile: Place the cutting wheel on the tile edge, apply firm downward pressure, and push the handle forward across the tile in one smooth motion
• Snap it: Push the handle downward with a quick motion while applying even pressure to snap the tile

Here’s what AI and the internet don’t mention: sometimes the tile doesn’t snap evenly.

I don’t throw the tile away. Instead, I’ll polish the snapped edge and make it square.

If you’re a good tile setter (and you should be striving toward that), you should have polishing pads.

I like using hand polishing pads or 200-grit electroplated ones that attach to the grinder.

Wet Saws have been a staple in the tile industry for years. So let’s see some tips for that.

Wet Saws for Cutting Porcelain Tile

I don’t use wet saws often, but when I do…

It’s the DeWALT D24000.

This saw is a beast and can handle tiles up to 24 inches.

The downside to these saws is that they’re messy and loud.

If you want to lose your hearing, use one of these every day.

Here’s the step-by-step for how to use a Wet Saw with porcelain:

• Setup: Fill the saw reservoir or a 5-gallon bucket with water, and ensure the pump is in water
• Aim water: Check to see that the water is hitting the saw blade to cool it and reduce dust
• Measure and mark: Dry the cut lines on the tile with a pencil or, preferably, a wax-tipped marker
• Guide the tile: Line up the cut mark with the blade before starting the wet saw, pull back the tile, and power on the saw
• Make the cut: Push the tile forward slowly and let the blade do the work; pushing too fast will cause porcelain tile to crack or chip

Here’s a bonus tip:

Remove old debris from the wet saw blade using a dressing stone.

This is especially important if you’re renting or borrowing a wet saw and using an older blade.

Grinders are like mini wet saws, or at least they can be!

I’ll explain.

Angle Grinders for Cutting Porcelain

Angle grinders are like the Swiss Army Knife of tile cutting.

You can cut tiles, make notches, make U-shapes, polish, and more.

However, grinders can be extremely dangerous.

First, the blade has to be installed properly. Normally, there’s an arrow or indicator on the blade that coincides with the rotation of the grinder.

Second, know the RPM rating of the grinder and the blade.

The blade RPM must be higher than the grinder’s RPM.

For example, if the blade is rated for 5,000 RPMs and the grinder is rated for 7,000 RPMs, that’s a problem.

The blade could overheat and break. Those shards have the potential to really hurt you or someone else.

Here are the basics for using an angle grinder to cut porcelain tile:

• Setup: Install the blade properly and have its rotational arrow align with the grinder’s
• Secure the tile: Clamp the tile to a bench or sturdy table with plywood or scrap foam board underneath
• Measure and mark: Dry the cut lines on the tile with a pencil or, preferably, a wax-tipped marker
• Score first pass: Score the top of the tile with the blade to reduce chipping and cracking
• Complete the cut: Cut the tile a second or third time to complete the cut
• Polish the edge: Use handheld polishing pads or an electroplated polishing pad with a grinder to polish the cut edge

I recommend having a variety of blades for different uses.

For example, I use a 5-inch Montolit Jollymont blade to bevel tiles for miter joints.

And either use diamond polishing pads or the Montolit Fleximont to polish porcelain tile.

Learning how to cut porcelain tile is a great skill.

I have a ton of great courses on how to tile showers, bathroom floors, and more inside Home Repair Tutor – it’s one of the best online resources for anyone renovating a bathroom or home. Tap the button below to learn more

Jeff

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One of the biggest reasons showers fail is the drain—and the signs are hard to ignore.

If your shower smells musty, damp, or like an old locker room, chances are the drain is the culprit.

Traditional clamping ring drains are a common source of these issues. They’re still widely used by plumbers and can be tricky to remove—but Schluter has engineered an excellent solution.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to upgrade to a Schluter bonding flange drain—a modern upgrade that eliminates those issues and offers long-term advantages.

By the end, you’ll see why making this change is one of the smartest improvements you can make to your shower.

I’ve organized this tutorial into the following sections:

Schluter KERDI-DRAIN-A Adaptor Kit Guide

1. Why Shower Clamping Ring Drains Fail
2. How to Install the Schluter KERDI-DRAIN-A Adaptor Kit
3. How to Install the Schluter Compensation Board and Shower Tray
4. How to Install the Schluter Bonding Flange Drain
5. How to Waterproof the Schluter Bonding Flange Drain
6. What the Schluter Naysayers Aren’t Saying (For Obvious Reasons)
7. Schluter Shower Curb Installation Tips Plus a Video (OMG)

You can tap the above links, and they’ll take you to that section.

If you’re a Home Repair Tutor member, you can find more tips in the menu under Topics and Courses

Many thanks to Schluter for sponsoring this tutorial.

Schluter offers a comprehensive range of shower waterproofing products and backs installers with exceptional support, including detailed in-person workshops and high-quality online videos.

I love them because of their commitment to education and developing new products that help people build quality bathrooms.

Why Shower Clamping Ring Drains Fail

If you’ve ever demolished a shower and encountered a clamping ring drain, there’s a good chance you’ve seen it fail.

These types of showers require a liner. And that liner will likely fail at the drain connection, wall interface, or curb.

Often, installers skip creating a pre-slope on the wood subfloor or concrete slab. As a result, the shower is destined to fail because water will pool underneath the tile.

Over time, that pooling water accumulates organic matter from the users (yes, gross). That, combined with warm air, will cause the shower to smell musty.

Furthermore, many installers use wood curbs that rot when exposed to water over time.

There’s a reason many seasoned pros prefer Schluter Systems. They don’t contain organic material.

The shower trays are pre-sloped for reliable drainage, and the bonding flange means no weep holes or liners to worry about failing.

Yes, it’s a premium investment—but for a bathroom or shower that’s built to last, the supplies and techniques in this tutorial are worth every penny.

Back to Guide

How to Install the Schluter KERDI-DRAIN-A Adaptor Kit

Fortunately, it’s easy to convert clamping ring drains to bonding flange drains.

Schluter has two different adaptors. One is for the standard bonding flange drain, and the other is for their linear drains.

While the process is easy, it’s still possible to make mistakes.

The first step is to remove the clamping ring and save the bolts.

I recommend cleaning the surface of the drain. Contaminants can cause the new bond with KERDI-FIX to fail.

I apply about a 1/4-inch bead of KERDI-FIX to the bottom of the adaptor ring.

Conversely, it can also be applied to the drain.

Either way, I encircle the punchouts on the adaptor ring or the bolt holes with KERDI-FIX.

Then I immediately embed the adaptor ring on top of the drain. I hand-tighten the bolts and use a ratchet to tighten them another 1/4 turn.

Here’s the error you can make: overtightening the bolts.

Avoid overtightening the bolts, as this can make the rubber gasket bulge and lead to leaks.

Pretty easy, right? It only takes a few minutes.

But I’m not done. There’s an important step when you combine the adaptor ring with the Schluter shower tray.

Back to Guide

How to Install the Schluter Compensation Board and Shower Tray

The traditional KERDI-DRAIN is solvent-welded to PVC or ABS below the shower subfloor or concrete.

As you can see in the previous section, the adaptor sits above the subfloor or concrete.

Therefore, the Schluter shower tray must be raised to ensure the new bonding flange drain functions correctly.

The easy way to do this is to use Schluter’s 1-inch height compensation board.

I dampen the plywood or concrete with a sponge and apply Schluter ALL-SET with the flat side of my trowel.

Then, I use the 1/4-inch by 3/8-inch square notched side to apply more thin-set mortar. All the trowel notches should be parallel with each other. Then I embed the compensation board into the mortar and walk on it.

I do the exact same process with the Schluter shower tray. I embed it into the mortar that’s on top of the compensation board.

Now here’s the deal,

I walk on the tray (with a cardboard layer underfoot), and I ensure the perimeters are level.

This makes tiling the shower walls easier.

And it’s especially important for small subway tiles since any variation in the shower tray height will be noticeable.

That said, I will scribe the cut the bottom of the tile, even 12×24 tiles, if the shower tray isn’t totally level.

Once the shower tray is installed, I add the drain.

But this one is a little different…in a good way!

Back to Guide

How to Install the Schluter Bonding Flange Drain

The Schluter KERDI-DRAIN-A Adaptor kit I used came with the bonding flange drain.

But this drain is different than the typical Schluter KERDI-DRAIN.

The drain hub slides down into the adaptor and makes a watertight seal.

It won’t be solvent-welded to ABS or PVC.

So, in many ways, it’s simpler to install.

But I want to impart some super important tips.

First, it should be level on all sides so that water will drain properly.

Second, it should be slightly lower than the Schluter shower tray, so that water won’t pool

Third, thin-set mortar should ooze up from the drain’s trapezoids. This provides surface area for the KERDI fleece to bond to during the waterproofing.

If your installation meets this criterion, you’re in excellent shape for the next step.

Back to Guide

How to Waterproof the Schluter Bonding Flange Drain

You might see a lot of chatter on social media about Schluter drains. Some people love to bash companies and blame them for shower failures.

Sometimes, defects happen in manufacturing—it’s true for cars, baby strollers, and plenty of other products.

But more often than not, if a shower fails and causes water damage, it was the installer’s fault.

Either they didn’t install the drain properly, used the wrong thin-set mortar, mixed the mortar incorrectly, or used the wrong trowel.

Whatever the reason, they ignored the instructions and assumed something that wasn’t correct.

Once you understand how Schluter works, it becomes easy to use.

For instance, I mix Schluter ALL-SET with the membrane water consistency (per the directions) using cold water.

I also use a mortar mixer that can handle thin-set mortar, not a drill. This recipe works every time.

Then I apply the ALL-SET to the top of the bonding flange using a KERDI trowel. I hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to maximize the notch.

And I embed the provided KERDI membrane so that it’s centered on the bonding flange.

I compress it with a 6-inch joint compound knife using moderate pressure and remove any excess mortar with a sponge.

Boom!

That’s it. Pretty simple.

Back to Guide

What the Schluter Naysayers Aren’t Saying (For Obvious Reasons)

I’ll be blunt, I love Schluter. And yes, I have a partnership with them.

I’ve seen many systems, and I respect what they can and cannot do.

But I’m not here to bash another product. It’s a waste of time because all products will work if they are installed correctly.

Also, if a social media influencer is criticizing a product, check to see who sponsors their content – you might find they have a competing brand behind them.

That usually explains why they’re so invested in tearing down a particular brand.

Anyhow, let’s get into the details…

Here’s how Schluter works:

Thin-set mortar is applied to a fleece layer on KERDI or KERDI-BOARD.

Thin-set mortar bonds to two layers of fleece on a waterproofed material like KERDI-BOARD or KERDI-BAND.

The fleece part is important because it acts as an anchor for the thin-set mortar.

If the thin-set mortar is mixed properly and the correct trowel is used, the thin-set mortar will develop a crystal matrix between two layers of fleece, e.g., KERDI-BOARD and KERDI-BAND.

The matrix will continue to grow until it physically blocks water molecules from passing through.

The KERDI-FIX option is similar. You need the KERDI-FIX to bond (or affix, hence KERDI-FIX) to something and be sealed with a KERDI layer, e.g., KERDI-BAND.

KERDI-FIX will waterproof and seal at the same time if KERDI-BAND is used. Thus, it’s a great option against windows, tubs, or acrylic/fiberglass shower trays.

So why aren’t you seeing the naysayers explain all this?

Let’s be honest – it’s pretty dull.

Twisting the truth or leaving out facts is the easy route on social media—especially when the goal is more clicks, comments, and ad dollars.

But if you’re reading this, I hope you can see through all that nonsense.

Back to Guide

Schluter Shower Curb Installation Tips Plus a Video

Another controversial topic, apart from shower drains, is shower curbs.

I like building custom shower curbs with 2-inch KERDI-BOARD.

I can make them any dimension, and they’ll support the heaviest shower door you can afford.

Plus, any extra material can be used for shower benches, or you guessed it, other curbs.

Remember this about shower curbs,

They should be level across the length of the shower but slope a little toward the drain.

That way, the shower door can be easily installed, yet water will hit the glass and drain into the functional shower area.

Easy concept to grasp.

In the video below, you’ll see how to install the Schluter KERDI-DRAIN-A Adaptor Kit as well as the shower tray and custom curbs.

There are many tips. I highly recommend grabbing a pencil and a pad!!

Shower drains and waterproofing are just one aspect of bathroom renovations.

If you want to unlock all my bathroom remodeling videos, courses, and personal coaching, join Home Repair Tutor today – it’s one of the best online resources for anyone renovating a bathroom. Tap the button below to learn more

Jeff