Pest & Weed Control Blog | Pest And Weed Control Service In Carlsbad NM

Sand Bur Control | How To Kill Grass Bur Stickers

hpcadmin — Sun, 15 Nov 2020 04:20:38 +0000

Why Is Sandbur So Hard To Get Rid Of?

Sand / Grass Bur Stickers

Sand Bur or what a lot of folks just call stickers or grass bur is quite common and widespread throughout Southeast New Mexico and West Texas. Many of the lawns and fields that we treat here in Carlsbad are infested with these troublesome sticker plants to some degree.

Sandbur stickers can be quite a challenge to get rid of once they're established. Growth habits, tolerance to harsh environments, and the approach people take to control them are all contributing factors as to why sand bur is so difficult to kill and keep in control. The following paragraphs should help you get a better understanding of how you can get it under control and keep it there.

Like many other weeds, sand bur is an opportunistic grassy weed. By opportunistic I mean it will take foothold anywhere it can and even in the smallest bare area. A thin unhealthy lawn is the perfect opportunity for a whole yard infestation and it can spread and take over very quickly.

Sandbur will grow in most any soil type. However, it likes infertile, sandy, and alkaline soil and it doesn't need a lot of water to survive. So, sand bur is right at home and set up to thrive in dry desert climates like ours here in Southeast New Mexico and West Texas.

Along with that, sand bur seeds (the stickers) stay viable for up to seven years. This means that, even though it may appear you have the sand bur under control using only herbicides, after the pre-emergent fades, the stickers will be back...and possibly for up to seven years or more.

Relying on herbicides alone is one of the reasons why folks just can't seem to get rid of sand and grass bur stickers in their lawns. Doing this yourself or having a professional weed control service do it, there's a lot more to do than simply spraying the yard every Spring. And you should plan to be in it for a few seasons at least.

Sand bur can be hard to get rid of. However, if you focus on the bigger picture of creating healthy soil and living conditions for a thick healthy lawn, you'll have better success. And a thick healthy lawn and good cultural practices is going to be your best defense against infestation or re-infestation by leaving no room for sandbur to grow.

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Important Steps To Control Sandbur

It Takes More Than Just Weed Killer And Pre-Emergent

It Has To Be Treated As A Grassy Weed - Not A Broadleaf

What Herbicides Will Kill Sand And Grass Bur?

It Likes Unhealthy Soil Better Than Healthy Soil

Don't Let It Go To Seed (Stickers)

Proper Mowing Height For Weed Control

Burning The Lawn To Kill Sand Bur Seeds?

Not By Weed Killers Alone

As I said, the idea that you can get rid of sand bur by simply relying on herbicide applications is where a lot of folks end up with a major sticker infestation. To get long term results, you can't just spray the yard and do nothing else.

Weed killers are just one part and actually one of the least parts of an effective weed control program. Most of our residential weed control services in Carlsbad are designed with the overall health of the lawn in mind.

Simply getting rid of the weeds and stickers is only temporary if the lawn is thin and unhealthy. A thick healthy lawn is the best weed control where herbicides are only used for maintenance.

The correct turf type, healthy soil, proper mowing, and the right amount of water and nutrients is a much more long term and even permanent solution to controlling sand bur.

Is Sandbur A Grass Or Weed?

In my definition, a weed is any plant growing where you don't want it to. And since I don't know anyone who wants sand bur in their lawn or anywhere else for that matter, we'll say sand bur is definitely a weed.

Sand bur is a Summer annual and is classified as a grassy weed. So it's generally not affected by most herbicides that control broadleaf weeds. A product must be labeled for grassy weeds and specifically sandbur in order to kill and control it. And since sometimes weed spraying companies use weed killers that only control the most common broadleaf weeds and not grassy weeds, the results are sometimes unsatisfactory.

As well, in the last few years it appears that sand bur has become somewhat resistant to most pre-emergent herbicides that are labeled for it. Results with pre-emergent alone are marginal at best. It would be great if all it took for a sticker free yard is to spray it once or twice a year. However, we ain't gonna get off that easy.

So, yes, sand bur is a weed. A grassy weed. And you must use both a pre and post emergent herbicide that's labeled for it in order to kill and help control it. You can often find OTC products at your home and garden center labeled for crabgrass that are labeled for sandbur as well.

What Weed Killers Kill Sand Bur?

The herbicides discussed here are by no means a recommendation by Horizon Pest Control or any of its employees. At the time of this writing, It's unclear what herbicides we use are available to the general public for controlling sand bur. I do know a few that are though.

So for the do it yourselfers, the mentioned herbicides are Over The Counter chemicals that are available to the general public at home and garden centers. If you can't find them locally, just do a search of the chemical name on Amazon.

If you choose to use these or any other pesticides, it's up to you to follow the label correctly. The label is the law. And as I said, none of this is advice or a recommendation.

For pre-emergent control, one such pre emergent labeled for sandbur is called dithiopyr. It works fairly well against sand bur but is short lived in hot climates. It has to be applied up to three times in a growing season to be effective. It is often in products called Turf Gro, Sta-Green, and others. Check and follow the label.

As for a post emergent that will kill growing sand bur plants, there is a weed killer labeled for sand bur called imazaquin and can be found in products named Image and others. Again, check and follow the label.

Sand Bur Dislikes Fertile Soil

While sand bur will grow in many soil types and climate conditions, it also grows well in nutrient depleted soils. It does especially well in soils deficient in nitrogen. And even appears to do poorly in soils that are high in nitrogen. So fertilizer and proper nutrients is a key element to control.

One of the things that makes our Southwest climate so appealing to sandbur is our infertile, harsh, alkaline soil. Proper soil conditioning and fertilizing for weed and sticker control is necessary to create poor growing conditions for the sand bur as well as help create a thicker lawn. This is a key component. You must keep a steady supply of high nitrogen to help discourage sticker plants.

Don't let it Go To Seed

As I said before, sand bur seeds can stay viable for up to seven years. And even if your lawn is thickened up, you have pre-emergent on the ground, and everything else is perfect, you may still get an occasional survivor. And even one occasional survivor left untreated can lead to hundreds more and a repeat infestation.

When you're trying to control a sandbur infestation, and especially in the beginning, it's important to inspect the lawn regularly. Remove any plants as soon as you see them. If the sand bur has already made sticker seed heads, try and collect as many as you can find and treat the area with pre-emergent if possible.

For our clients who have us doing the herbicide part of their sticker control, we ask that they inform us of any new sand bur plants if they don't wish to address it themselves. We're happy to take care of it as part of our service. This part is so important for good long term results.

Proper Mowing Height For Weed Control

Different grass types have different height requirements for proper growth and maintenance. You should be familiar with your lawn turf type and know the minimum and maximum mowing heights for that type.

For better control of most weeds including grass bur, you should mow at the highest level recommendation. The reason for this is that the taller turf will help shade the ground. The less sunlight to the ground, the less chances of weed seeds germinating.

Should I Burn My Lawn To Kill Sandbur Seeds

You'll find a lot of different opinions and ideas if you do an internet search on the subject of burning off your lawn. The truth of it is, for certain lawn types, sometimes it's necessary and sometimes it's not, and sometimes it's helpful and sometimes it can be harmful.

First, at least here in Southeast New Mexico, don't burn a St. Augustine lawn. It is much more sensitive at the soil and root level than other turf types. Even in dormancy, it's sometimes not completely dormant. So the heat can damage tender parts of the plant and roots that are still growing at or just below the ground surface.

And as for other turf types?

As far as fescue and other cool season grasses, at least for my lawns, I recommend mechanical thatching if necessary and over seeding to thicken up the lawn. Fescue lawns should be over seeded at least once a year anyway as they have an attrition and don't re-populate like other turf types do. You have to keep the lawn thick to choke out the sand bur stickers.

For Bermuda lawns?

A Bermuda lawn is where I'm most likely to burn off for a few different reasons. It's unlikely but still possible to affect the roots that are close to the soil surface. However, around Southeast New Mexico and West Texas, the Bermuda goes completely dormant late in the Winter season, so there's generally not anything growing above ground that can be harmed.

So with this in mind, burning off a Bermuda lawn can not only be helpful to get rid of sand bur seeds, it can also take a lot of work out of mechanical thatching if thatching is necessary. As well, and what would do well for other turf types, is that burning off does also add some nutrients to the soil.

Professional Sand Bur Sticker Control Service

Horizon Pest Control, located in Carlsbad New Mexico, provides all of Southeast New Mexico and West Texas with weed control solutions for all kinds of service types including sandbur sticker control.

Our services also come with our advice and helping you create a program that will get rid of the sand bur. While all lawns are different, most of it is pretty much what we've gone over in this article.

So keep in mind, whether you hire our company, some other weed control company, or do it yourself, all of these steps need to be followed. If you hire Horizon Pest Control out of Carlsbad, you'll either need to work with us or let us do it all in order to get guaranteed results.

If you live in Carlsbad, Artesia, or anywhere in Southeast New Mexico and need help getting rid of sand bur stickers or any other weeds, give Horizon Pest and weed Control Service today at 575-725-9331. Or you can use the contact form if you'd rather.

The post Sand Bur Control | How To Kill Grass Bur Stickers appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

Termite Prevention | Protect Your Home From Termites

hpcadmin — Wed, 30 Sep 2020 01:40:20 +0000

HOW TO PREVENT TERMITES IN YOUR HOME

Wood Window Sill With Termite Damage

For the homeowner and consumer, it would be fortunate if termite prevention and control was as simple as most other forms of insect control. However, it gets a little more complicated and difficult due to the fact that termites rarely have to come into human contact or visibility.

Termites are silent wood destroying insects. They can travel underground and live within structures where they are undetected and unaffected by regular insecticides and pest control treatments.

With this in mind, I believe anyone can see the importance of doing as much as you can to prevent termites in the first place. While a professional termite treatment or pre-construction application is your best defense for preventing termites, It still should only be considered as a part of your complete defense plan to protect your home from these and other wood destroying insects.

From another angle, you may not even know if your home has even had a termite treatment or an inspection, or it's so long ago it wouldn't matter anyway.

In any case, there are some steps and measures that you can and should take yourself to help protect your home from termites. Whether yours is one of the more modern homes that has a pre-construction treatment or one of the older homes that may or may not, it's a good idea to take these measures into consideration.

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TERMITE PROOF BASICS

Eliminate Wood To Soil Contact

Keep Moisture Away From The Foundation

Minimize moisture in crawl spaces.

Never store firewood or any type of wood near the home

Get A Periodic Professional Termite Inspection

ELIMINATE WOOD TO SOIL CONTACT

Most wood is termite food and they are in constant search of new supply to sustain a colony. And when wooden parts of a building are in direct contact with soil, it can be more easily detected by termites as a food source. Wood siding, door frames, planter boxes, and any type of wood trim should be at least six inches from any dirt surface.

Termite Mud Tubes On A Block Wall

While this isn't a guarantee that termites won't find the wood on your home, at the least it doesn't create such an obvious invitation. Also, if there are any signs of termites such as mud tubes going up the side of the building, they will be more visible. With the wood touching the soil, the evidence may be hidden.

When inspecting your home for areas of wood to soil contact, be mindful that there can also be contact in not so obvious areas. Patio awnings, covered porches, and steps are often supported by wood beams placed on concrete. However, these beams often extend all the way through the concrete into the ground creating a perfect hidden avenue for termites to gain easy access into the structure.

KEEP MOISTURE AWAY FROM THE FOUNDATION OF THE HOME

The subterranean termite, the species we deal most with here in Carlsbad New Mexico, basically needs two things to survive. Food and moisture. And having a water source right where the food source (your home) is makes for ideal conditions for a termite infestation.

Lawn And Sprinklers Next To The Home
A Contributor To Termite Infestations

Water should be diverted away from the home or structure. As well, creating intentional wet areas such as lawn turf, planting beds, or water features next to the foundation should be avoided. Lawn turf areas and planting beds are one of the most common overlooked moisture sources we encounter.

To begin, a gradual slope should be created away from the foundation to divert any water. Keep in mind that, if soil is added to create elevation, you need to avoid wood to soil contact. As well, any soil that is brought in should be treated.

Turf areas, planting beds, and other wet areas should have at least an eighteen inch buffer between them and the foundation. Sprinkler and irrigation systems should be designed or altered with this in mind. Landscaping in the form of ground cover such as bark mulch should be kept to a minimum and treated with termiticide regularly. Gravel should be treated the same.

It's hard to justify adding a gutter system to your home here in Southeast New Mexico where we get very little rain. However, gutters, downspouts, and properly placed splash blocks will give added protection. At the least, consider adding gutters to the areas that get the most drainage and puddling.

All other moisture sources such as leaking faucets, air conditioners, A/C unit condenser lines and anything else should all be repaired, diverted or whatever it takes.

MINIMIZE MOISTURE IN CRAWL SPACES

Of course, this applies to homes that actually have crawl spaces. And while it might not seem so, even in our arid climate of Southeast New Mexico, the crawl spaces of some homes can have lot of humidity and moisture and enough to sustain termite activity.

Open Crawlspace Entrance

Most building codes require that buildings with crawlspaces have a certain amount of vent space per certain square feet. However, over time, building codes change and older homes may not have the same specifications as newer homes and may not have sufficient venting and air flow to keep the moisture in the crawl space minimal.

Air vents under the home should be periodically inspected for debris or vegetation obstructing them. As well, it may be necessary to add some venting if none exists.

While we don't see it a lot, we have seen instances where home owners have intentionally caused moisture under their homes by diverting dryer vents and A/C condenser lines under the home. While this may be convenient and out of the way, it is a sure way to keep the moisture high under your home and in turn create perfect living conditions for termites.

NEVER STORE FIREWOOD OR ANY TYPE OF WOOD NEAR THE HOME

Of course, it's most convenient to store firewood right outside the door closest to the fireplace. Nobody wants to walk through freezing cold or snow to get a log or two to burn. However, storing your firewood next to your home is an invitation for termites. And we see this one all the time.

While firewood laying in contact with the ground can be an invitation for termites, they and other wood destroying insects can already be present in the wood. And if you stack it directly next to your home, you can easily create your own termite infestation.

The best thing you can do is create a designated area away from the home where you can store firewood and other wood and keep it isolated. Keep the area teated but never treat the firewood itself. The burning insecticide can cause fumes that are harmful.

GET A PERIODIC PROFESSIONAL TERMITE INSPECTION

It's a good idea to know what termites look like and to know what the obvious signs of termites are so you can do a periodic self inspection of your home. However, you may still want to get an inspection done by a professional as well. The question of do you actually need a termite inspection or treatment can only be answered by you and how confident you are with your own inspecting skills.

If you do live in Carlsbad, Artesia, or anywhere in Eddy County New Mexico and would like a second opinion, a full termite inspection, or even a treatment, Horizon Pest Control is here to help. Evaluation and treatment estimates are free. And termite inspections are cheap compared to the damage these wood destroying insects cause. Give us a call today at 575-725-9331 for our services or advice.

The post Termite Prevention | Protect Your Home From Termites appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

False Chinch Bugs In Southeast New Mexico

hpcadmin — Mon, 27 Jan 2020 01:32:24 +0000

Little Black Bugs Invade Southeast New Mexico

It's almost time again. It happens every year here in Carlsbad, and to some extent, most of Southeast New Mexico. The return of the False Chinch Bugs.

Generally, at the end of every Spring as the weather starts to warm and the Mustard Weed dies off, we start to get the calls. Some years, the calls come in for weeks. Most folks don't have a clue what a False Chinch Bug is. They're just thousands of little black bugs that are invading yards and homes.

But First, The Truth About False Chinch Bugs

Before I get into all the details about what is a False Chinch Bug, where they come from, what kind of damage they cause, and how to get rid of them, let's look at the truth about False Chinch Bugs and their control.

As I said before, in the Spring the phone rings off the hook from concerned folks who are being invaded by the little black bugs. They want a professional pest control service to come out and make them magically disappear.

To be honest and up front -

They generally go away within two to three weeks all by themselves whether we spray or not. (More On This Below And What You Can Do To Get Rid Of Them)
Yes, we can come spray but it won't be the end of them. They are so widespread and there are so many of them that even if we spray everyday, there will still be bugs until they finish their life cycles.
There are possibly billions of False Chinch Bugs in an infestation. We'll get at least a 75% to 90% kill. And out of a billion False Chinch Bugs, that still leaves a hundred million little black bugs.
We've yet to see any real damage in a residential setting here in Carlsbad. And other than them being a nuisance, the main thing to be concerned with is young new garden plants, seedlings, and ornamentals. Also, keeping them out of your home.
They're not harmful to people or pets

Where Did They Come From?

Chances are, they're already in your yard. If you had them last year, the bugs and their eggs are already there.

False chinch bugs spend the winter and colder months as nymphs (baby False Chinch Bugs) and adults under leaf litter and other debris near their favorite food sources. This include cold weather annuals like the mustard (London Rocket) which is so prevalent around Carlsbad in the Winter and Spring.

The females lay eggs in loose soils and in cracks in the soil. The eggs hatch in around four days. The nymphs (baby false chinch bugs) feed for three weeks or so until they reach adulthood.

Adults can live for an average of two to three weeks feeding on host plants such as the Mustard. There can be up to four hatches and generations a season. Other common plants around Southeast New Mexico that they like are Russian thistle (Common Tumbleweed), Sage, and Kochia.

Do False Chinch Bugs Cause Damage?

The False Chinch Bug is a plant eating insect. And while they are a threat to many agricultural crops and ornamental plants, we've yet to see any noticeable damage in a residential setting. They're more of a nuisance than anything. And again, they don't cause any harm to people or pets.

How Long Does The Infestation Last?

As I said earlier, it will take two to three weeks for the False Chinch Bugs to subside in a given area. However, this is relative to the area of Carlsbad and Southeast New Mexico that you're in. The infestation in the entire region takes a bit longer than that. Again, this is due to the many micro-climates that exist in our area.

If you'll notice, the Mustard sprouts and dominates the area at different times during the season. Areas like North Shore and Riverside Drive along the Pecos River start to warm up quicker due to the heat the river holds. Areas like Ocotillo Heights up by C-Hill start to warm a little later. And even further out like in Otis and LaHuerta will start to warm even a little later.

And so, since the Mustard infestation occurs at different times, so does the False Chinch Bug infestation. So, even though the little black bugs may be in your area for two to three weeks, they will actually be in the Carlsbad area for up to three months or so.

What You Can Do To Control Them

As I stated before, it will be two to three weeks for the False Chinch Bugs to thin out and start to go away. And while we'll be glad to come out and do treatments to help get rid of them, it's really not much more than you can do yourself. Here are a few things you can do -

Mow the lawn short and cut or spray the weeds. And especially those close to the house. And while chances are good that your neighbors are infested as well, you can pass this info on to them as well.
Protect your garden and ornamentals using a repellant insect spray or Sevin Dust.
To help keep them out of your home, make sure all of your weather stripping around doors and windows seals correctly.
Also, to help keep them out of the home, use a repellant insect spray around entries and windows.

Professional Pest Control Services

So there you have the basics about what a False Chinch Bug is, its habits, and the truth about their control. You can use this information to get some control or you can call a professional pest control service.

If this is the case and you live in Carlsbad or the surrounding area, give Horizon Pest Control a call for service at 575-725-9331. We'll be glad to come out and help you with the False Chinch Bugs, the surrounding weeds, or both.

The post False Chinch Bugs In Southeast New Mexico appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

It’s Not Termites? | A Little Closer Inspection | Carlsbad Termite Control

hpcadmin — Wed, 18 Dec 2019 20:52:38 +0000

Are Termite Inspections 100% Accurate?

Termite inspections are not always 100% right. However, it can go both ways. To the relief of some, sometimes it's not termites after all.

Carlsbad has its share of termites. Almost half of our own inspections turn up positive results for wood destroying insects. And the majority of calls we get where folks already know they have termites or have been told they have them are positive.

I would say that the majority of live termite infestations we find in Carlsbad are right in the center of town. From Pierce Street to Lea Street and from down by the Tansill Dam to C-Hill, we've had more positive termite inspections and treatments than anywhere else in Carlsbad and Eddy County. We also get a lot of service calls for false sightings in this area as well.

The Obvious Positive Signs Of Termites

Termite Mud Tubes On Interior Wood Trim

Some signs of termites are obvious. The presence of a live colony and even damage is usually pretty obvious. And if you've been actively protecting your home from termites, you're sure to notice any new obvious or questionable signs worth investigating.

Some of the most obvious signs of termites -

Wings on widow sills or anywhere in the home. There's really only one way it got there.
Dirt on window sills or anywhere in or around the home that keeps returning after you clean it up. Not always termites but a sure sign of some critter.
Mud tubes on interior walls and foundation walls. These don't always look like "mud tubes" but it's pretty obvious what it is. The photo above is a good example of an interior wall mud tube that doesn't look like the average mud tube.
Paper thin paint on trim and walls. You can see this in the photo as well. The termites have eaten all the wood from behind this trim. All that's left is the paint.

Other signs may not be so obvious and can be questionable. I always encourage folks to get a second opinion. Especially when it's a situation where I say they don't need a treatment. We're very confident in our ability to detect termites and give accurate results for our inspections. Still, in a situation like this, another set of eyes is just reassuring.

While we'll discuss some of the ways to identify termites and some of the the ways they're mis-diagnosed, this article isn't necessarily about how to identify termites and their damage. It's more about the reality that termite inspections aren't always 100%. See signs of termites for more details about identification and signs of termites.

Termite inspections require a serious approach and time to pay attention to detail. They can't be rushed. We're dealing with one of if not the biggest investments that most folks have. Still, most inspections are limited to what a pest control operator can see and hear. Even with sophisticated detection equipment, what's inside the walls or under the floors can sometimes go undetected.

This has become obvious to us over the years as we've seen so many active infestations discovered during a remodel or re-construction project. Some of them have been extensive with entire walls being eaten and destroyed. And all the while, there were no outward sign that an infestation even existed.

And with that, I can say that, for lack of better words, anything to do with termites can be somewhat tense. On one hand, a pest control operator doesn't want to miss an actual reason for a treatment. Again, it's your property we're dealing with. And on the other hand, you shouldn't be sold a treatment that you don't need. They can get expensive.

So, what can you do?

You get another opinion!!!

Even if it's Horizon that gives the first opinion, if you have questions or doubts, you should always get a second opinion.

My last call for an estimate turned out to be not even termites at all. It reminded me of just how many of these estimates I've done over the last year that, in my opinion, didn't need a termite treatment at all.

Luckily for these folks, they did call to get estimates. That's just smart. And at the same time, it gives other pest control technicians an opportunity to see the evidence and offer advice if there is any needed.

A Flying Termite (Alate)

Live bugs are obvious. Flying termites (alates) in the home are obvious. However, not all other signs are obviously critical. In a situation where there is no observable visible evidence of termites, at least to me, or they're not even termites at all, my advice is always this -

"An ounce of prevention is worth a TON of cure. However, at this time, I don't observe any evidence that would require a curative treatment. I am not discounting another pest control company's recommendation. This is just my observation. However, I Suggest that you GET ANOTHER OPINION.

We'll do our best to point out why we think what we do. And if you're not completely satisfied with what we have to say, you should seek out another opinion.

A Few False Sightings

Most false sightings are from concerned (panicking) homeowners that have heard of or experienced the horror stories of termites before. This or someone has already told them that they have termites. We get these from all over Carlsbad and Eddy County because of Desert Termites which are common all over Southeast New Mexico. I'll talk about these more a little later in this article.

This Is Not A Termite

A Brown Lace Wing - Not A Termite

This little flying insect is mistaken as a termite a lot and is the reason for a lot of service calls. It is a Brown Lacewing. Although it flies, can be found on indoor window sills, and is often mistaken for one, it is not a termite. You can see the difference with the photo of the alate above.

There were several calls this year for estimates where homes had already been diagnosed positive for termites because of these flying insects. Most folks are relieved when we inform them that they are not insects that will destroy the wood in their home. However, some are skeptical because they've already been told they have them. We understand. Most folks simply don't know.

In one instance, the homeowner insisted that we were wrong and that they were indeed termites. In this case, we sent samples to the New Mexico Department Of Agriculture and they confirmed our findings. They even sent us a document to present to the client. This is our state working for us. If you need this service, let us know.

A Sure Sign Of Termites?

Is the presence of Carpenter Ants a sure sign that you have termites? Absolutely not. I'm not sure where this one came from but it simply is not true. It may be an indicator for further inspection. But it is not a sure indicator.

While we've encountered this only once, I thought it was worth mentioning here just in case it's being told elsewhere.

We did a real estate inspection in the Country Club Circle area for a home purchase and we passed it. After a few months, the homeowner saw Carpenter Ants. They called in someone and were told that Carpenter Ants are a sure sign of termites because they are their favorite food. And that they needed a treatment.

Since we had cleared the home in our initial real estate inspection, the homeowner wanted to speak with us.

The homeowner was told that they have Carpenter Ants (we'll talk about this in another article). And that because termites are Carpenter Ants favorite food, it is a sure sign that there are termites in the home.

This is a new one to me. Termites are a favorite food of a lot of different insects including most ants. They're soft almost defenseless balls of protein. However, this is not a sure sign of termites. Maybe an indicator for further inspection but not a sure sign.

We were able to eliminate the colony with a simple inexpensive baiting program.

Desert / Agricultural Termites

This is often a tough call for me. And it's the one we get the most calls on. As I explain this, I want to be clear that in no way am I giving a solid diagnosis of your home or situation. For more info on this see, Desert Subterranean Termites. The rest of this is just from my experience from dealing with Desert and Subterranean Termites in the Carlsbad and Southeast New Mexico area.

Desert or Agricultural Termites can be found everywhere in Southeast New Mexico. While they can be found anywhere in the Carlsbad City limits, the most calls we get are from around the outskirts of town and near farm fields. Areas like Otis, LaHuerta, and even on C-Hill near the Living Desert State Park have the most calls for desert termites.

To most folks, one termite is the same as the next. And especially if you can see them right there crawling on your wood fence, your wood pile, on sticks and grass in the yard, and even a mud tube going up the side of the house.

Yes. These are termites. However, this desert type is rarely a threat to the structure of your home. At least, I haven't seen it. Don't get me wrong. They do cause some damage but most often in a different way.

In most cases, if you scrape away the mud tubes, you can see for yourself that most often the wood or other surface is most often not even touched or eaten. This is characteristic of Desert Termites. The type of subterranean termites in our area that do eat wood structures, will most often have eaten and made grooves in the wood.

In most cases, desert termite sightings are away from the home on a fence, some siding, a board, or some other wooden structure. In cases like this, I usually won't call for a treatment but rather a clean up and a broadcast insect treatment of the area and home perimeter.

Mud Tube Found Under Carlsbad Mobile Home

A harder determination is when the evidence is in, under, or near a home or wooden structure.

This photo of a mud tube found under a mobile home is a good example. This is without a doubt, a mud tube. And it is indeed, under the home. Should this be a reason to call for a treatment?

In this case, I said no as well as you may want to get another opinion.

This mud tube exhibits the classic characteristics of how desert termites travel, eat, and survive. There were actually several under this home. And they all ended just like this. They are surrounding a piece of grass and never even touch the home. As well, there are no live bugs or damage to wood to be found.

This is without a doubt an obvious visible sign of termites. And like I said earlier, to most folks one termite is the same as another. And for most folks, this is plenty reason to panic, expect the worse, and call for a treatment. And most pest control operators will oblige without any assessment or advice.

This is why it's so important to get a second opinion. And even if you're not happy with our assessment, you should seek more advice. It won't hurt our feelings. It will either solidify our opinion or keep us from making a mistake.

Professional Termite Control Service

Horizon Pest Control, based in Carlsbad, provides termite inspections, treatments, and pre-treatments to all of Southeast New Mexico. If you're in need of any pest or termite control service, give Horizon Pest Control a call today at 575-725-9331.

The post It’s Not Termites? | A Little Closer Inspection | Carlsbad Termite Control appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

How To Trap A Raccoon | Carlsbad NM Raccoon Control Tips

hpcadmin — Mon, 02 Dec 2019 05:31:53 +0000

Humane Trapping & Relocation

Raccoon Caught In A Trap

i'm fairly confident that trapping raccoons in and around Carlsbad is pretty much the same as for most anywhere else. Southeast New Mexico or anywhere for that matter, these simple methods have worked fairly well for us.

There's nothing hi-tech about the "how" to do this. There is more to do with safety and handling when it comes to dealing with live wild animals such as raccoons.

And while we do offer raccoon trapping and relocating services in the Carlsbad area, this is actually one of those pest control tasks that doesn't require chemicals that some (not all) folks can do themselves...if they just knew how. This is for them.

Before I go any farther. Raccoons are wild animals that do carry several diseases. Sure, they're cute. And they are extremely mean and especially when caught in a trap. They can carry rabies and even their feces can transmit airborne diseases. Special handling is also required if you catch one. I'll talk more about handling, relocating, and health safety more in the article.

So why would we show folks how to do it themselves if we offer this service ourselves? Honestly, it seems that the raccoon population in Carlsbad has exploded and it simply takes a lot of time we don't have to continually monitor traps, re-bait traps, and relocate Raccoons when we catch them. This is especially true when folks have a lot of raccoons on their property.

So again, we will be glad to take care of this for you. But it may take a while for us to get there and it may get costly. Or you can read on and discover how to take care of your varmint issues yourself.

The majority of the calls we get are from around the LaHuerta and Orchard Lane neighborhoods of North Carlsbad. In this area, the living conditions are perfect with plenty to eat, lots of water from the Pecos River, and lots of Pecan and other trees for shelter. So most areas around the country like this with water, shelter, and food are likely to have raccoon or other varmint issues.

How Do I Know It's A Raccoon
It's A Raccoon - I Need A Trap
What Bait To Use For Raccoons?
Bait Placement
I Caught A Raccoon - Now What?
Safe Handling
Transporting
Releasing A Wild Raccoon
Is It A Female - Lactating Female

How Do I Know If I Have Raccoons?

Other than actually seeing them, there are other ways to know and identify if it's Raccoons causing your issue or something else.

Damage Caused By Raccoons

The number one cause and sign of damage that we get raccoon calls on is damage to lawns from raccoons digging grub worms out of the lawn. Most folks don't have any idea what it is other than they know it has to be some kind of an animal. And so they call us or some other pest control company.

Sometimes it's skunks but more often, it's raccoons. This of course is a sign that you also have grub worms in your lawn. And so beyond trapping the raccoons, lawn grub control will be needed to lessen the attraction to your yard.

Physical damage to property and structures is most often caused by gaining access. Sheds, storage areas, and most often, attic vents and open spaces on roofs are the most common damaged areas.

Raccoons gaining access into your attic is an issue that needs to be dealt with right away.This is especially true in late winter or early spring when female raccoons may be looking for a place to nest.

Poop, Scat, Feces Identification

Poop, Scat, Feces, etc. identification is one way to tell if it is raccoons causing your issues. Raccoons are omnivorous which means they eat most anything. And their feces will generally reflect what is in their diet. Most often, at least in the Carlsbad area, there is a presence of seeds and nuts in the scat.

Photos for identification can be helpful. Wildlife removal has some good photos for identification. See raccoon scat photos for several different examples of what raccoon poop looks like.

A word of caution about raccoon scat and droppings. Raccoon poop can potentially carry several different diseases that can be harmful to humans and pets. See Infectious Diseases Of Raccoons for more information about this Proper handling and personal protective equipment is critical.

It's A Raccoon - I Need A Trap

Remember that we're doing a humane catch and relocation and so we'll need a live catch trap that's large enough to handle a large raccoon if necessary. The trap should have an opening of at least 10"x 10" and be at least 30" long.

At the time of writing this, you can get a two trap set Catch & Release Live Animal Trap From Tractor Supply for 20 bucks. That's about a good a deal as you can get. You could also go online and search for "Catch & Release Live Animal Trap" and maybe find something comparable.

*** Once you get your trap, you'll want to get familiar with it BEFORE you get a live raccoon in it. Get familiar with how it works, how to set and bait it, and most importantly, how to open it to release the raccoon you're going to catch. You'll want to know all this ahead of time.

Where And How To Place The Trap

Of course, you'll want to place your traps where you see the most activity or evidence. While this is obvious, there are a few things we've learned about how to place traps rather than where to place them that may help you save some time and avoid some costly mistakes.

In The Lawn & Landscape

As I mentioned above, raccoons can cause a lot of damage to lawns when they're digging for grubs. And if feeding is good, they'll return to the same spot night after night. So of course, that's where you want to place your traps.

O.K., here's the words of advice about this. Place a piece of plywood under the trap that's at least a few inches larger than the trap on all sides. Why? Because once the door on the trap closes, that raccoon will pull every bit of lawn and soil underneath the trap, right inside with it. They will shred your lawn.

Raccoon Pulling Landscape Fabric Into Trap

As well, don't place the traps too close to any desirable plants, over or near sprinkle heads and hoses, or anything else you may want to keep.

As you can see in the photo to the left, this raccoon has pulled the ground cover mulch as well as the landscape fabric underneath into the trap.

We thought this one would be fine being placed on such a thick cover away from everything else. We were wrong. It's best to use a platform most everywhere just to be safe.

Roof Placement

Placing traps on roofs may be necessary if you have one or more taking up residence in your attic or just frequenting your roof a lot. I'd say, the main lessons we've learned about placing traps on roofs are -

Use a board platform under the trap. They will shred shingles and even scratch up metal roofs when caught.
Don't place the trap close to any wires, vents, pipes, etc. If they can get a hold of them, there will need to be repairs.
Make sure the trap can't roll off the roof if a raccoon gets in it. Ya. This happened. Fortunately the raccoon wasn't hurt but he was way mad.

What Bait To Use For Raccoons

Hi-Tech Raccoon Bait

While the bait we use is simple and inexpensive, it is what works best and it helps keep us from catching all the neighborhood cats. We use marshmallows. That's right. And they don't even have to be the expensive brands. They're all gourmet to them.

Raccoons are omnivorous meaning they will eat most everything. This includes marshmallows which they seem to like a lot. And so, while this makes a good bait, at the same time, it's not attractive to cats.

Our last trapping job right off of Orchard Lane in North Carlsbad produced three raccoons, one fox, and two squirrels using marshmallows as bait. And not one cat.

Proper Bait Placement

Marshmallow Raccoon Bait In Live Catch Trap

It's one thing to have hi-tech bait. But if the raccoons and other critters can steal it, it doesn't matter how hi-tech it is. So how you place and secure the bait inside and outside the trap will help ensure better success.

Placement outside the trap is simple. Just two pieces leading in and one piece before the trap trigger. How you place it behind the trigger is what matters. If it's not secure, they can steal it too.

In this photo, you can see how we've placed the marshmallow under the trap between it and our platform board. Setting it like this requires a little work to get it and increases our chance of the raccoon stepping on the trigger.

I Caught A Raccoon - Now What?

First - Remember - Raccoons are mean wild animals that can carry diseases

Safe Sanitary Handling

Of course, I don't have to tell you not to try and pet the raccoon or stick your finger in the trap. Na. I didn't need to say that. However, there are things to consider when handling and relocating raccoons.

As I mentioned earlier, raccoons not only carry diseases that can be transmitted through biting and fluids such as rabies, their airborne dried feces can also carry disease. And since you're not going to try to pet it or stick your finger in the trap, we won't focus so much on getting bit. But rather on sanitation.

Here are some considerations for safe proper handling -

Wear at least a N95 dust mask when handling, transporting, or releasing.
Wear nitrile or similar type glove when handling trap and bait.
Disinfect trap, trapping, holding, and transport areas.

If immediate transport isn't possible

Keep raccoon in shade out of weather.
Feed sliced apple through trap - Provides food and water.
Transport as soon as possible
Disinfect trap, trapping, holding, and transport areas.

Is The Raccoon A Lactating Female

This isn't something that most folks would consider. However, with humane trapping and relocation of any wild animals, it needs to be considered. Not only is it inhumane to relocate a mother raccoon without her babies, it can also create some difficult situations. The biggest possibility of this is in the spring and early summer.

Often it's obvious and easy to tell if the raccoon is a nursing mother. Often, it's teets are visible and even moisture may appear present. Other times, it may not be so obvious. The best you can do is be mindful of the possibility and look for the signs. If there's any question or possibility, it may be best to wait until she brings the babies out.

Transporting And Re-Locating

There are really just a few things to keep in mind when transporting a trapped raccoon to its new home and releasing it.

You need to take it a good enough distance so that it won't return. I have heard of raccoons traveling ten miles or so to get back to where they were trapped. I don't know this for certain but we've made it the general rule. At least ten miles.
Take it somewhere where it will have a good chance of survival. Like around water. We generally release ours on different areas of Black River and the Pecos River.
When transporting in a vehicle, use the platform board and make sure there's not anything near the animal. Again, it will shred anything it can get a hold of.
Try to make the transport be as little shock to the raccoon as possible. It really has no idea what's going on. As well, keep it out of direct sun and too much wind in the back of a truck.

Releasing A Trapped Raccoon

Releasing A Trapped Raccoon - Pecos River

Releasing a raccoon or any trapped animal back out into the wild can be the most intense moment of the entire process. Your mind thinks, there's no telling what this critter is going to do when it's out of the trap. Will it turn around and attack me?

These are all valid concerns and thoughts. And you should treat it seriously and be prepared. However, my experience so far is that the raccoon wants to get away from you just as much as you want it to.

So point the trap opening toward the water or wide open spaces, stand behind it, open it and keep your fingers out of the way.

Carlsbad Raccoon Control

Once again, Horizon Pest Control does provide wild animal trapping and relocation services in and near the Carlsbad New Mexico area. However, at the time, there seems to be more raccoons than we can get to. So if you need any advice or help with this, give Horizon Pest Control a call for service today at 575-725-9331 .

The post How To Trap A Raccoon | Carlsbad NM Raccoon Control Tips appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

Signs Of Termites | Evidence Of Termite Infestation

hpcadmin — Tue, 04 Jun 2019 03:00:08 +0000

Swarmers, Wings, Mud Tubes, & Other Evidence

Dead Swarm Of Flying Winged Termites

Flying termites, mud tubes, wings, droppings, and other little bits of evidence they leave behind. These are the most common visible signs of a termite infestation in your home or other wood structure.

These bits of evidence left behind by termites are what we get the most calls on for termite inspections. So this article will probably help answer a few questions about what you've probably already seen.

Unless you're aware of what signs to look for, the evidence of a termite infestation may go unnoticed and undetected. These silent wood destroying insects can exist unseen with all they need to survive for years or even indefinitely.

A termite colony only needs a food source and moisture source to survive and thrive. The food source being wood (your home). And if the moisture source is internal like a leak under your floor or in a wall, evidence and sign of a termite infestation may not surface for years.

Again, these are simply the most common obvious visible signs. There are other advanced methods of detecting hidden termite colonies that are used in a routine termite inspection. However, what we'll look at here is what we get called on the most prior to most of our inspections and termite service calls.

The Most Common Obvious Signs

These are the most common obvious signs. However, there are also a lot of "false sightings" that turn out to not even be termites at all. See It's Not Termites | A Little Closer Inspection for more details about what is and what isn't termites.

Alates - Flying Termites
Termite Wings - Body Parts
Mud Tubes
Frass - Termite Droppings
Kick Out Holes - Tiny Holes In Walls

Alates - Flying Termites

Alate - Flying Winged Termite

Alates or flying termites are most often the first sign that there are termites inside of a structure. Often in the Spring (but not always) and when weather conditions are favorable, Alates leave the colony to form mating pairs to create new termite colonies.

Often and fortunately, the only exit from the colony is to the interior of the home or structure that they occupy. I say fortunately because if the termites exit the exterior of the structure, there may be no other visible signs and many termite infestations would go undetected.

Alate On A Window Sill

Other than during flight, the most common area you'll find flying swarmers is on window sills and other avenues of light as they are attracted to light.

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Discovering elates inside a structure, even one like on this window sill, is a sure guarantee that there is an active colony inside the structure.

For most species, a swarm happens once or many times a year. Usually the swarms occur after a good rain and usually takes place at or after sun down. And most often, it's pretty obvious that a swarm is happening. There are instances where the swarm is actually flying ants. However, most times it is termites. If you're unsure, call for a professional opinion and further inspection if necessary.

Termite Wings - Body Parts

Subterranean Termite Wing

Again, Alates are the flying winged reproductives of a termite colony. They can swarm in large and small numbers. And in some cases, only leave one small piece of evidence behind.

Many times, while there will be no visible evidence of an actual insect, there will be detached wings laying on window sills and other lighted areas. And even a single wing inside of a structure is a sure indication of an infestation somewhere inside the structure.

Mud Tubes

Termite Tubes On Brick Foundation

Mud tubes are protective travel ways for termites. They protect them from predators as well as protect their tender moist bodies from dehydrating. Some termite species won't last long when exposed to open air.

Not all termites make mud tubes. However, the species we find in our service inspections the most in Carlsbad and Southeast New Mexico, the Subterranean Termite, does. It is a sure sign that termites are either present or have been there in the past. Some mud tubes you find may be inactive and have been for a long time.

So, while you may not actually find live active termites in the tubes, it's still an indicator that you need to investigate further. Or if you're in Carlsbad, call Horizon for a termite inspection. Our service is thorough to locate a termite infestation.

Frass - Termite Droppings

Most often, the first time frass or termite dropping is sighted, it appears to be and is mistaken as dust blown in around window sills and door jams. However, after cleaning it up, it continues to return. This is usually when we get the call for a termite inspection.

A lot of times, a kick out hole directly above the "dust" pile will indicate the true composition and source of the frass. However, the kick out hole itself often looks like a speck of dust.

As well, many times there is no kick out hole but simply debris left by termites under baseboards, in corners, on window sills, and other areas.

Advanced Termite Detection And Inspection

There is a lot of great technology that exists today for detecting termites and termite infestations. However, a lot of the more "advanced" methods of termite detection are just more detailed inspection methods. If you've discovered any of the signs mentioned above and want to investigate a little further yourself, here are a few "advanced" techniques we use to detect evidence of unseen termite populations.

Sounding - Is simply using a soft medium point blunt end object to tap on base boards, trim, walls, and other areas. What you're looking for is hollow and inconsistent sounds.
Probing - Is using a tool similar to an ice pick to investigate hollow sounds further. It's also used to investigate bubbles and ripples in paint and other flaws in the wood and finish of your home.

You should probably go light on these so not to ding up your finish or leave pin holes all over your trim and walls.

Termite Damaged Wood Trim

This photo shows termite damage that is pretty obvious but wasn't seen until we came for the inspection. Sounding and probing weren't really necessary. The paint on the trim is paper thin and the wood trim itself has been completely eaten from behind it.

This actually happens a lot and can go totally unnoticed until you put a finger through the paint shell.

The first sign of this infestation was a swarm of termites inside the home. It was an obvious infestation and further investigation found evidence of the source and location of the colony.

Of course, in this example, the rippled paint is a good sign for further investigation. However, to this homeowner, it just appeared as an abnormality or old paint.

Professional Termite Control Service

If you've found any of the signs or evidence mentioned above in your home, it's a good idea to get a professional inspection service to take a look at it. Horizon Pest Control offers termite inspection, treatment, and control services to Carlsbad and Southeast New Mexico. Give us a call at 575-725-9331 to schedule termite control service today.

The post Signs Of Termites | Evidence Of Termite Infestation appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

Carlsbad Lawns | Fertilize For Better Weed Control

hpcadmin — Sat, 20 Apr 2019 05:44:43 +0000

Weeds Thrive In Southeast New Mexico Soil

Weed Free Fertilized Lawn In Carlsbad

The soil in Southeast New Mexico has a lot to be desired as far as nutrients for good plant growth. Supplemental fertilizer is almost always a must in most areas.

A large part of Carlsbad's soil is dominantly sand and limestone which holds little or no organic nutrients at all. Weeds and especially the most common weeds in Southeast New Mexico often seem to be the only vegetation that grow well in it.

The soil in and around Carlsbad is varied in composition. Sand, caliche, clay, and some fertile soil make up the base. The same limestone reef that created Carlsbad Caverns also has a part in creating some our soil and is responsible for the alkalinity.

Along with the alkalinity, there is a lot of sand which is void of any organics and nutrients bleed right through it. The sandy soil along the Pecos River which was once fertile farm soil, has been leeched of most nutrients.

The soil throughout the rest of town is pretty much what you might just call "dirt". The closer you get to C-Hill and the Living Desert State Park, the more alkaline and rocky it gets. This is of course because the Guadalupe Mountains which make up our foot hills are one large limestone rock.

How Does Fertilizing Kill Weeds?

Fertilizing your lawn doesn't actually kill weeds directly. I'll say it again. The best weed control in lawns (besides concrete) is a thick healthy stand of turf grass that leaves no room for invasive unwanted weeds to gain a foothold. Fertilizing thickens up the turf to help crowd out the weeds.

And while this is often easier said than done, it's not unobtainable. Even so, it can still take several seasons and a lot of work to reach that point. However, once this goal is reached, it's a lot less work to keep a yard healthy and weed free.

Proper fertilizing, along with other steps like proper watering and pre emergent, plays a very important role in weed control by building up Carlsbad's infertile soil. Weed spraying is just part of our service focused on developing the entire health of the lawn. Weed control spray treatments alone just won't do it. Besides the obvious reason that it helps create a healthy yard that can more successfully choke out weeds, it also helps in controlling sand bur and many other opportunistic weeds that prefer an infertile soil in order to thrive.

While the mechanics of actually spreading fertilizer on the lawn are simple, proper methods are often overlooked, misunderstood, or not known at all. Improper applications can actually make the turf grass weaker or have little benefit at all.

When And How Much Fertilizer To Use?

Lawn Fertilizer And Spreader

First, it's important to know what type of lawn turf you have. Different lawn types have different nutrient requirements. Knowing this will help you decide what type and how much fertilizer to use.

For most folks, a fertilizing program consists of a heavy application of high nitrogen fertilizer in the Spring and generally nothing else for the rest of the growing season. This usually produces a very green fast growing lawn for about six weeks along with the need to mow every three days or so.

The desired results are there...at first. However, long term results can be minimal along with some not so obvious problems later in the Summer and in the grass plants themselves.

While a heavy nitrogen application can produce a fast thick beautifully green colored lawn to start, it can actually create very weak plants with very little root system that can't withstand disease and drought. This in turn will eventually leave a very thin stand of turf with lots of room for invasive weeds.

Also, nitrogen is very soluble and readily available in most commercial fertilizers and plants will absorb as much as they can and more than necessary while it is available. Then it's gone. For good lawn health and weed control, it's best to apply several light fertilizer applications over the growing season rather than one or two heavy applications all at once. This helps ensure that there is always an adequate supply throughout the season rather than a shot in the arm and then nothing.

While this may seem expensive, it doesn't have to be. That is, unless you have a lawn the size of The Walter Gerrells Performing Arts Center which most folks don't. You don't need to use the expensive name brands with the words turf or feed in them. The less expensive tree foods or crop formulas from feed stores will usually be adequate as long as they have both micro and macro nutrients in them.

For good lawn health and weed control, it's best to apply several light fertilizer applications over the growing season rather than one or two heavy applications all at once.

While some manufacturers instructions on the bag recognize and follow this approach, most don't. And while the manufacturers generally give proper application amounts per application, the nitrogen is generally depleted before the next suggested application. Remember what I said about nitrogen being very soluble and that plants will use more than they need until it's gone?

Macro & Micro Fertilizer Nutrients

Most lawn fertilizers will have phosphorous and potassium along with the nitrogen which are generally the most vital, utilized, and necessary elements required for good healthy plants and root systems. These are called Macro Nutrients. However, these aren't the only nutrients required for healthy plant growth. Plants also need a periodic micro nutrient supplement.

While most soils will have adequate amounts of the lesser micro nutrients available, it's still good practice to supplement the soil with one application of a full spectrum macro and micro nutrient fertilizer once every three years or so. Some lawn fertilizers do have minor amounts of iron, zinc, copper, etc. in them or it may be necessary to incorporate a general purpose or tree food mix into the program. Once every three years is generally more than enough for most soils.

Some lawn fertilizers do have minor amounts of iron, zinc, copper, etc. in them or it may be necessary to incorporate a general purpose or tree food mix into the program.

A Word About Soil PH

Proper soil PH is critical for proper nutrient uptake in lawn grass and other plants. For example, there could be plenty of iron in the soil but if the soil ph is incorrect, it will be locked up in the soil and the lawn can't access or use it. And with common fertilizers, it doesn't matter how much you apply, it won't be accessible.

Proper soil PH for most grass types is 6 to 7 which is slightly acidic to neutral. Generally, the soil around here in Carlsbad, Artesia, and Southeast New Mexico is a bit on the alkaline side. For alkaline soils some agricultural sulfur may be necessary to bring it in balance. For acidic soils, a bit of lime may be necessary.

If a fertilizer application doesn't bring a dull lawn to proper healthy color, it's best to do a PH test before you go dump another application on it. You could have plenty of nutrients in the soil but the plants simply can't access it and use it.

Inexpensive soil ph and nutrient test kits are usually available at hardware stores, do it yourself centers, or online.

A Word About Winterizing Fertilization

Winterizing with fertilizer is an important step for cool season grasses like Fescue that stay green in the colder months. Obviously, if they're green, there's something still going on there. And while this can easily be applied with granular or mixed with a fall weed control application, the nutrient requirements are different at this time of year. A fertilizer with very little nitrogen and medium amounts of phosphorus and potassium is best for root production and preparation for Spring.

Warm season grasses like Bermuda and St. Augustine that go dormant in the colder weather do not need winterizing in the Fall. While the grass plants are still somewhat active at the root level preparing for next season, they don't need added nutrients.

Late Fall fertilizing of warm season grasses can actually cause great harm to the turf. A late Fall application of nitrogen and other nutrients can stimulate unwanted growth as the turf is trying to go dormant. And if the plants are green and growing when a freeze happens, it will kill the grass that is growing leaving bare spots in the Spring. And bare areas not only mean an ugly lawn but are also areas where weeds can set up home.

While it may not seem as direct a link to weed control as pulling weeds, herbicides, and pre emergent applications, fertilizing is a very important step in a long term lawn weed prevention program.

Professional Weed Control Service

Horizon provides service to all of Eddy County New Mexico. Along with fertilizing and weed control treatments, we're available for advice. In Carlsbad give Horizon Weed And Pest Control Services a call for service today at 575-725-9331.

We're more than just a company that sprays for weeds. For our spraying service or for questions about Southeast New Mexico and Carlsbad's soil, we're always happy to offer advice and help out.

The post Carlsbad Lawns | Fertilize For Better Weed Control appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

African Rue Management | Southeast New Mexico

hpcadmin — Sat, 13 Apr 2019 07:39:27 +0000

What Is African Rue?

African Rue In Flower - NPS [Public domain]

African Rue is an invasive weed species that has become well established in Southeast New Mexico. It has very heavy pressure near Carlsbad and spreads through most of the southeast corner of New Mexico as well as many parts of the country.

Horizon Pest Control provides professional weed control services for the management of African Rue as well as reclamation of areas around Carlsbad in Southeast New Mexico that are populated by the invasive weed.

Description / Identification

The African rue, Peganum harmala, is a bright green succulent perennial. It has a woody base and root system that grows deep into the ground which is a major factor to its survival and makes it very difficult to control.

This noxious invasive weed is a fast growing perennial with many branches that can grow taller than two feet and a bit larger than four feet wide.
The roots of African Rue can grow over 20 feet deep as well as twenty feet laterally which makes it very drought tolerant and able to survive our Southeast New Mexico climate.
The flowers are white and have five petals that bloom from spring to early fall.
African Rue has tough leathery pods that contain an average of 50 or so dark brown seeds.
The stems are bright green and smooth and the leaves alternate and are smooth like the stems.

Favorite Growing Conditions

African Rue does well in most soil types including the harsh alkaline soil of Southeast New Mexico. It does especially well in moist soils.

It is most commonly found growing in barren and open areas in need of weed control such as oilfield and industrial sites, parking lots, roadsides, open fields, etc.. This drought tolerant weed survives just fine on packed caliche roads and pads.

Toxicity

African Rue is listed as a noxious weed in Arizona, California, Colorado, New Mexico, Nevada and Oregon. This invasive weed is dangerous and toxic. The entire plant is toxic. However, the most toxic parts are the seeds and seed pods. The pods and seeds are desirable to grazing livestock and it only takes about 0.15% of an animal’s body weight to be deadly. Peganum harmala has four different alkaloids that make it deadly to humans and livestock.

Africa Rue's toxicity goes beyond being lethal to humans and livestock. It's also toxic to other plants which makes it easy for it to outcompete the native plants in Southeast New Mexico. It germinates earlier in the spring than other vegetation and creates chemicals that make it difficult for other plants to survive.

How To Kill African Rue

Effective control treatment options are limited. Because of the plant's deep root system, mowing, burning, and tilling do not kill the weed and it generally grows back. Tilling and grubbing can produce more plants that can grow from stem and root pieces.

As well, and one of the main factors in managing African Rue is to treat it and remove it before it goes to seed. It can be necessary at times to remove individual plants that are close to seeding. This can be done by covering the plant with a plastic bag and cutting it at the stalk.

So, what are the treatment options? How to kill African Rue?

Broadcast Foliar Spray Treatment
Broadcast Soil Spray Treatment
Individual Plant Treatment

Broadcast Foliar Spray Treatment

A broadcast foliar spray treatment of African Rue is ideal when there are a large number of plants and no threat of harming any desirable native vegetation from the spray. Both selective and non-selective weed control can be used depending on surrounding vegetation and the chance of over spray and drift of the weed killer.

The same as other weeds treated with foliar applications, environmental conditions, physical conditions, and timing need to be right for best results.

African Rue is best foliar treated when it is in a vegetive growth stage and preferably when it is young and tender. However, the plant can go through more than one vegetive growth stage in a season. The plant will die back in drought and heat but will spring back to growth when the rains come. These are the best times to do a foliar spray application.

Another important factor in getting the best results with most weeds in foliar spraying is humidity. When humidity is high, plant leaf surfaces are open and will take in more herbicide. When weeds are in drought, they close up and don't respire to conserve moisture.

Broadcast Soil Spray Treatment

Again, the same as with foliar application, surrounding vegetation needs to be considered before a soil application as they are generally non-selective soil sterilants that inhibit all vegetation.

Most generally, broadcast soil treatments are combined with a foliar treatment to address any weeds that may already be growing. This type of treatment is ideal for keeping large areas such as oil pads and industrial sites vegetation free. Soil treatments keep large open areas that are prone to seeding of African Rue from being able to support growth.

Timing is also important with soil treatments. While it's not always possible, soil treatments are most effective when applied when there is rain in the forecast. Precipitation helps to get the herbicide into the root zone where it can work.

Individual Plant Treatment

Treating individual plants is the best option when there are few plants and or there is desirable vegetation around. There are a few different ways to go about it.

Foliar spray application of individual plants works well when nearby plants won't be affected.
Whole plant removal requires cutting the African Rue plant at the base and then treating the root stem with herbicide. If the plants are close to or have already seeded, a bag should be secured over the plant before it is cut.

Measures To Complete Management

Early detection of African rue germination, and especially before going to seed, is very important to slow down the spread of this plant. African Rue is an invasive weed and once it has become established, it is difficult to get rid of without affecting the surrounding native plant habitat.
Mechanical and manual methods of control are inefficient. Spraying herbicide is most often the best method of control. However, even with spray applications, it can take years to bring the weeds down to acceptable numbers. In areas with a lot of weeds, it's often necessary to use a broad spray foliar and ground treatment to get an area to acceptable numbers.
Continued monitoring after the initial treatment is necessary. If monitored closely, spot spraying and individual plant treatment should only be necessary.
If possible, over seed with native plant varieties. Healthy and thick native plant varieties will help slow the spread of African Rue.

African Rue Control Services

Again, African Rue is an aggressive invasive weed that can get out of control quickly if not managed properly. Early attention and constant monitoring are necessary for areas prone to African Rue.

The technicians at Horizon Pest And Weed Control Service in Carlsbad are trained in the management of African Rue that grows in Southeast New Mexico. They know what to look for and how to spray treat without harming the sensitive surrounding environment.

Whether its consulting, individual plant treatment, ground spray or foliar spray, Horizon Weed And Pest Control Services in Carlsbad provides weed control services for the management of African Rue in Southeast New Mexico. Give us a call for service today at 575-725-9331 for a free consultation and appointment.

The post African Rue Management | Southeast New Mexico appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

Home Mosquito Control | Eddy County New Mexico

hpcadmin — Sat, 30 Mar 2019 04:58:59 +0000

Controlling Mosquitos In An Arid Desert

Horizon Pest Control provides mosquito control services for Carlsbad, Artesia, and all of Eddy County New Mexico. Give us a call today at 575-725-9331.

Carlsbad Irrigation Flume

Mosquitos need stagnant water to breed and reproduce. So, of course they thrive most and become out of control where there's plenty of water for them. And while Eddy County in Southeast New Mexico doesn't have as much water as most places, it often seems to have just as many mosquitos as a tropical rain forest.

And while most towns in Eddy county like Carlsbad, Artesia, and Loving do provide chemical vector control, it's simply not enough to keep the mosquito population in control.

So if mosquitos thrive where there's water and we live in a desert that doesn't have much, why do we have so many of these blood feeding flying insects?

Actually, if you think about it, we do have quite a bit of water that surrounds and goes through our cities. Of course, we have the Lake Carlsbad Recreation Area on the Pecos River. And don't forget Black River. However, we also have Brantley Lake State Park, Lake Avalon, the Carlsbad irrigation district Canal System, and several other areas that have water at certain times of the year like Seven Rivers and Rocky Arroyo. These alone would be enough to sustain a large mosquito population. However, there are even more sources.

Mosquito Breeding Grounds

While most cities in Eddy County have a diversity of industry, they all also depend on agriculture as industry as well. And where you have agriculture, you have irrigation and... you'll have Mosquitos.

Carlsbad Irrigation Canal System

The need for irrigation creates a need for a network of canals and ditches that criss cross the entire countryside starting at Lake Avalon going through town and out through Otis. While these waterways are moving, they're not necessarily a breeding ground for mosquitos. It's when they're not moving that they provide the pools of stagnant water that mosquitos prefer to reproduce in. As well, these areas also catch and hold water every time it rains.

Even though Eddy County provides vector control, there's no way it can address the entire area and every pool and puddle.

Along with these areas, there are mosquito breeding grounds right in your own backyard. Old tires, empty cans and bottles, empty buckets, kiddy pools, and pet waterers are just a few I can think of. Every property is different. Basically, if it holds water, turn it over or get rid of it.

Taking Control Around Your Home

Places Mosquitos Reproduce At Home

While it's not really possible to completely eliminate the entire mosquito population in Southeast New Mexico, you can reduce the population around your own home.

And with a group effort with your neighborhood, you can get even better results.

Again, eliminating water sources is the main thing with long term effective mosquito control. Eliminate water sources and you'll have a big part of the battle won.

Prevention And Repellant

Again, unless every person in the county does something to help control mosquitos in their own yard, you probably won't ever get total control. However, with a few small steps you may get some relief in your own environment.

Water - As mentioned above, Mosquitos must have water to reproduce. Eliminate all sources of water or that hold water. Repair leaky faucets and sprinkler systems as well as eliminate all articles that hold water. The old tire and bucket in the photo above are good examples.
Plant plants around your home that repel mosquitos such as Marigold, Citronella Grass, Geranium, and Lavender to name just a few. Try to create an environment that mosquitos don't like.
Larvae control - If you have ornamental ponds, birdbaths, or fountains, you can purchase larvacide disks or dunks that drop right into the water and kill the mosquito larvae.
Clean up leaves and clutter - These areas hold moisture and provide the cool environment that mosquitos like to rest in during the hot part of the day.
Thin out thick vegetation and low branches. These areas are where mosquitos rest in the day. They are cooler and provide shade and protection from the hot sun.
Get professional mosquito control help...

Professional Mosquito Control Service

If you live in Carlsbad, Artesia, or anywhere in Eddy County and need help with a mosquito issue, Horizon can help you with that. We know the bugs in Southeast New Mexico and can provide effective mosquito control solutions with lasting results. Give Horizon Mosquito And Pest Control a call for service today at 575-725-9331.

The post Home Mosquito Control | Eddy County New Mexico appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

Common Broadleaf Weeds In Carlsbad And Artesia

hpcadmin — Sun, 24 Feb 2019 06:38:06 +0000

Weed Identification

There is a variety of broadleaf weeds that infest Carlsbad and Artesia lawns and properties. The desert atmosphere of Southeast New Mexico is perfect for their survival. However, there are just a handful of weed and vegetation types that infest lawns to the point of needing herbicide treatments to manage them.

This list identifies the most common targets of our weed control treatments in Carlsbad, their main characteristics, and tips for controlling them. This isn't all the weeds we deal with. Just the most common in Carlsbad and Artesia lawns.

Beyond common broadleaf lawn weeds, the New Mexico Department Of Agriculture has a list of noxious, invasive, and introduced weeds and plant species in New Mexico that we'll talk about in anther article. Some of these plants are the salt Cedar along the Pecos River snd down by the Flume, African Rue, and even the Mustard Weed listed below that grows from beyond C-hill to beyond who knows where.

Timing And Management

Good management of weeds and unwanted vegetation requires first knowing a bit about the habits and lifecycle of the weeds you wish to control. Identification is, of course, the first step. However, in order to know the best time to apply pre-emergents, the next step is to know when the plants germinate, make flower, and make seed.

It's important to apply pre-emergent before plants germinate in order to minimize future sprouts. Most of the weeds listed here germinate at different times. And with that, different areas of the Pecos Valley heat up at different rates in the Spring.

For example, the Mcnew Subdivision out on the open desert warms up a lot slower than neighborhoods along the river like Landsun Drive or Pecos Acres. So, good weed management requires knowing a bit about the weed and a little about weather patterns and history.

The Weed List

While they're not necessarily common broadleaf lawn weeds and don't usually affect the average homeowner, they are worth mentioning. Again, we'll cover this in another article.

Mustard Weed (London Rocket)

Mustard (London Rocket) - Not the most difficult weed to kill and control, but the most visible and one we get the most calls for in the Spring.

Mustard is is a cool weather weed that dies out when the weather gets warm. Best managed with pre-emergent in the Fall, it is very easy to control.

A big part of our weed service is spraying weeds in the Fall. Our clients who spray in the Fall have no mustard or other weeds in the Spring.

Mustard weed is more of a nuisance than it causes any damage. In Carlsbad, it's one of the first weeds you'll see in the Spring and will even see it thrive in the freezing cold of Winter.

Then, the Mustard explodes throughout Southeast New Mexico as the weather warms. However, it is the first to die out when the weather gets hot and it is mowed.

Maltese Star Thistle - Not necessarily a lawn weed, Maltese Star Thistle grows thick along Carlsbad roadsides and fields. Maltese Star Thistle was first noticed on the truck by pass on North Happy Valley Road in 2003.

Maltese Star Thistle

It is a cool weather Winter annual that first germinates in Late Fall, shows itself in the Spring, matures very rapidly, and reproduces early. It then dwindles and dies out in the heat of the Summer

To manage this invasive plant, it's important to apply a pre-emergent in the Fall before it germinates. A post emergent that works for Mustard weed will also work on Maltese Star Thistle if any have sprouted already. A post emergent in Spring will help stop any that have escaped the first treatment.

As stated earlier, it's not a lawn weed so it's not generally a concern unless you have open areas, fields, or vacant lots on your property.

Henbit - Another cool weather weed that is very prolific and best controlled with a Fall pre-emergent treatment.

Henbit flowers in the Spring and drops its seeds where they lay waiting until the weather cools. It's very important to get your pre-emergent applied early if you're dealing with Henbit.

Purple Henbit Flower

Henbit thrives in Carlsbad and Artesia lawns. It can take over huge areas very quickly and choke out large areas of grass. After the henbit finishes its lifecycle and dies, the areas of lawn that have been choked out are left with bare areas which in turn, make room for more and different weeds.

Again, even though it's a cool weather Spring weed, Henbit and many other weeds are best treated with Fall pre-emergent weed control before they germinate. And again, timing is critical as well as some knowledge of the plants you're trying to control.

Night time temperatures will regulate when some seeds germinate so knowing this information will help you determine the best time to apply pre emergent.

Mass growths of Henbit, even though it is a weed, can be very beautiful and impressive as it creates a field of purple when it's in full bloom.

Even though it is a cool weather weed and dies out as the weather warms, Henbit can cause a lot of damage before it finishes its lifecycle, goes to seed, and dies out.

Black Medic

Black Medic - This is the one that folks call clover. However, Black Medic is distinguished by a yellow flower and true Clover has a white flower. It is very difficult to manage and keep it gone.

Black Medic thrives in poor soil and is actually a sign of Nitrogen deficiency in lawns. Our Southeast New Mexico soil is perfect for it.

See How to control Clover (and Black Medic) in lawns. Black Medic is best treated with Spring pre-emergent and mid-summer contact spray when it is young and active.

Spurge - Is a very difficult to manage warm weather weed that is best treated in the Spring and mid-summer with pre-emergent. Contact spray treatments work well when it is young but not so much when the plant matures.

Spurge grows prostrate in a thick carpet, makes millions of dust fine seeds, and can choke out large areas of lawn.

Khaki Weed Alternanthera caracasana

Khaki Weed - Is one of the most difficult weeds we treat and requires specialized herbicides and constant attention to control it. See Khaki weed control / how to kill khaki weed for information on how to control it yourself.

Khaki has a glossy succulent type leaf and small white sticker bur seed heads.

One of the things that makes Khaki so difficult to control, is that it has an extremely long tap root. It can bounce back from the root even after the strongest herbicide assault. It requires constant attention and possibly several treatments.

Puncture Vine (Goat Head) - A warm weather weed that is best treated with preventive pre-emergent. A Spring time treatment and mid-summer treatment are best. Difficult to kill once it's mature and the seeds are viable up to seven years.

A Dandelion Weed Seed Head

Dandelion - Everybody has Dandelion. And they're never going away. With their airy floating seed heads, they're bound to show up again and again.

Fall and Spring pre-emergent is the best defense against Dandelion. And even while the best efforts aren't always enough, Spring and Summer post emergent and spot treatments are also a necessary tool for this one.

Professional Weed Control Services

Again, these are just the most common broadleaf weeds we treat for in Carlsbad and Artesia lawns. While there are many more that thrive in Southeast New Mexico, very few make it into or get a foot hold in lawn areas.

Regardless, the herbicides we use here at Horizon, address these and most other broadleaf weeds and invasive vegetation that grows in Carlsbad, Artesia, and Eddy County New Mexico.

If you are in Carlsbad, Artesia, or anywhere in Eddy County New Mexico and are in need of professional weed control service, give Horizon pest control a call today at 575-725-9331. We know the weeds in Carlsbad and Artesia and how to control them. Our spray service is guaranteed.

The post Common Broadleaf Weeds In Carlsbad And Artesia appeared first on Horizon Pest Control.

Pest & Weed Control Blog | Pest And Weed Control Service In Carlsbad NM

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