Before you start the project you may also wish to refer to A Quick Guide to Using a Masonry Drill Bit and A Quick Guide to Using Wall Plugs.

In the following example I installed three dispensers in the shower area.

Step 1 – If you are working over a basin or in the shower area place a towel over the drain holes in case you drop a screw; it will also protect the tiles or basin if something heavier is accidentally dropped.

After deciding where you want the accessory to go, place a piece of tape over the area before marking the final position using the pencil. Note: The tape helps prevent the drill bit from slipping and scratching the surface.

Note: Before drilling into the walls always check that there are no hidden cables or pipes; this is extremely important when using power tools near water.

Step 2 – As I was installing three items I used a straight edge and spirit level to make sure the markings were all level. You may also wish to refer to A Quick Guide to Using a Spirit Level. I also used a measuring tape to ensure I had the correct spacing and they were all at the same height. Note:  Always double and triple check the position of your measurements before drilling the holes.

Step 3 – Drill the holes on slow speed, especially when you think you are about to punch through the tile. Note: again, after drilling the holes for each fitting, I re-checked the measurements.

Insert the wall plugs that came with the product and affix the mounting brackets to the wall with the screws. Note: depending on where you are attaching the accessory, you may wish to also apply some silicon around each hole to ensure the area is waterproof.

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3. A Quick Guide to Attaching Picture Wire

A spirit level is usually made from aluminium and is available in a range of standard lengths. I have found it handy to have two levels, one for small jobs (230mm long) and another for the bigger jobs around the house, this one is 600mm long.

Note: A spirit level can also be used a straight edge to check if a piece of timber or other material is not bowed. Do this by placing the spirit level against the surface of whatever you are checking; if there is no space or bulge in-between both ends of the level, i.e. both surfaces are touching, it should be straight. Note: Depending on the length of what you are checking, always use the longest level you can get your hands on, as the reading taken is only as good as the length of the spirit level itself.

How to Use a Spirit Level

Horizontal Surfaces

Place the flat edge of the spirit level on the surface you are checking. There is a bubble inside the glass tube. Watch where the bubble comes to rest.

If the bubble is outside of the two lines, then the surface is not level. If this is the case, the surface needs to be tilted or adjusted until the bubble comes to rest exactly between the two lines in the glass tube. It is then level.

Vertical Surfaces

If you need to check if an upright is vertically straight, the level is used in a similar way. The spirit level has another tube glass tube which is used for this purpose.

Place the edge of the level against the upright and move the upright until the second bubble is exactly in the centre of the two lines on that glass tube. At this point the upright will be vertical. Note: Make sure you check more than just one side of the upright, and then check it again.

Other

When using a spirit level it is important to remember that it is a precision instrument and can become inaccurate if it is treated roughly or accidentally dropped.

Please also see A Quick Guide to Checking if Your Spirit Level is Accurate.

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1. A Quick Guide to Checking if Your Spirit Level is Accurate
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3. A Quick Guide to Choosing and Using a Ladder

Before purchasing a level you can use the following steps to make sure it is not faulty.

If you already own one, it is wise to occasionally check the vial’s accuracy.

How to Check a Spirit Level for Accuracy.

Horizontal

1. Place the level on a flat surface and make a mark to show where the level is sitting.
2. Note the exact position of the bubble in the vial.
3. Turn the level over to the other side and place it against the mark you made.
4. Check the exact position of the bubble in the vial again.
5. If the bubble has returned to the same place, the level is accurate.  If it didn’t, then it may be inaccurate.  Always double check by repeating the process above.

Vertical

1. To check the "plumb" or "vertical" vials, place the level against a door frame or wall.
2. Make a mark on the wall beside the top vial.
3. Note the exact position of the bubble in the vial.
4. Turn the level over to the other side and place it against the mark you made.
5. Read the level again and note its exact position in the vial.
6. Check the exact position of the bubble in the vial again.
7. If the bubble has returned to the same place, the level is accurate.  If it didn’t, then it may be inaccurate. Always double check by repeating the process above.

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1. A Quick Guide to Using a Spirit Level
2. A Quick Guide to Installing a Towel Rail
3. A Quick Guide to Attaching Picture Wire

Hopefully the following information will help you to decide. Also included are safety tips on how to correctly use your new ladder.

According to Australian Standards ladder manufacturers must specify whether a ladder is domestic or industrial rated.

A domestic ladder is defined as "a ladder designed to be used by a householder for construction, maintenance and repairs carried out at a private dwelling for non-commercial purposes".

An industrial ladder is "any ladder other than a domestic ladder". They are generally for commercial and trade use where strength, durability and reliability are needed.

There are three main types of ladders – extension, step and multipurpose. For indoor use, stepladders or multipurpose ladders are usually recommended. For outdoor work, taller stepladders, multipurpose or extension ladders are more appropriate.

They come in many different sizes and styles, and may be made of timber, aluminium or fibreglass.

Aluminium ladders are lighter than fibreglass ladders which make them perfect for general use around the home.

Fibreglass ladders are recommended for use in an electrical environment as they provide some isolation between the user and earth, reducing (but not eliminating) the risk of electrocution.

What Ladder Height Do I Select?

Step Ladder

When choosing the size ladder you need, the rule of thumb is to select one that is about 0.6m shorter than the height you wish to reach. For example:

Extension Ladder

With an extension ladder you need to select one that is 1.0m longer than the height you wish to reach. For example:

Note: Be sure to choose a ladder that complies with the appropriate Australian Standards as they are tested to meet stringent strength and durability criteria.

Safety and Common Sense Tips

• Regularly check for any loose screws, hinges or rungs; clean off any mud or other liquids that might have accumulated on the ladder. Cracked, broken or damaged ladders should never be used.

• The ladder should always be placed on a firm, level surface. Avoid any soft, muddy spots and never place a ladder on ground that is uneven (including flooring). Always engage the ladder locks or braces before you climb.

• Set extension ladders at a slope of about 4:1 (for every metre in height, the ladder should extend out from the base by about 250mm). Non self supporting ladders should be no more than 1.5m out from the base of the wall.

• Never use a step ladder’s top shelf as a seat; it was not designed to carry your weight.

• Leaning too far to one side when you’re on the ladder could make you lose your balance and fall. It is always safer to reposition the ladder than risk falling.

• If you do not feel comfortable, get someone to hold the ladder while you climb. Always maintain three points of contact when using a ladder i.e. have two feet and one hand, or two hands and one foot on the ladder.

• Only one person should be on the ladder at a time, unless in the case of emergency.

• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and do not exceed the load limit specified for your ladder.

Climbing and Working On the Ladder

• Always maintain three points of contact when using a ladder i.e. have two feet and one hand, or two hands and one foot on the ladder.

• Always face the ladder when climbing up or down and when working.

• Do not overreach while working from a ladder. Your body should be centred between the two stiles of the ladder. Do not stand higher than the tread or rung indicated on the ladder as the highest standing level.

• The top of the ladder should be firmly against a solid surface. Do not place the top of your non self supporting ladder against a window or brittle surface.

• Avoid climbing up and down a ladder while carrying anything in your hands. Don’t handle equipment that will restrict your movement or cause you to lose balance. Carry tools in a tool bag, rather than in your hands.

• Keep your shoes free of grease or other slippery materials while using ladders.

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1. A Quick Guide to Using a Spirit Level
2. A Quick Guide to Checking if Your Spirit Level is Accurate
3. A Quick Guide to Installing a Towel Rail

They are attracted to light and will enter buildings at night, although once inside they do not breed and will eventually die.

While there is no evidence they affect human health, they can occur in plague numbers, and can contaminate food and infest carpet and bedding.

Portuguese millipedes are herbivorous, which means in plague proportions they may also destroy seedlings and fruit and vegetable crops.

When disturbed a millipede may release a pungent and distasteful yellowish secretion which discourages predators, such as birds. Note: the secretion may stain skin or clothes and is extremely irritating if rubbed into the eyes. However as it is composed of organic chemicals called quinones, it quickly breaks down in water.

Mature black Portuguese millipedes are smooth and cylindrical, 20-45 mm long and slate-grey to black in colour. Juveniles are light brown and striped. Juveniles hatch from eggs in the soil and reach maturity in two years.

During hot dry weather they will hide in the soil, however rain in spring and particularly in autumn will stimulate activity and breeding.

What can be done?

Lighting

Portuguese millipedes are attracted to light. If you are able to do so, turn off any external lights which are close to your house or other buildings and minimise any escape of light by closing curtains and blinds. Use weather-strips on doors as good door seals will also help prevent entry into the home.

Compost/Mulch

While compost is good for gardens, it also allows higher populations of millipedes to breed. If you can, reduce the area covered by organic matter such as compost, leaf litter and mulch as it decreases a source of food and shelter. Don’t forget your gutters.

Natural predators

While some spiders, beetles and scorpions will eat millipedes, they will not significantly reduce numbers.

Physical barriers

A smooth vertical or rounded barrier can stop millipedes from entering buildings as they are unable to gain a foothold. The barriers can be fixed to walls, below doorsteps, window ledges and vent bricks (make sure you keep them clean and free of vegetation). A barrier must be continuous with no breaks (unless placed under doorways).

Plate glass, 7.5 cm wide and 4.5 mm thick, can also be fitted around the base of a house.

Chemical control

Chemical barriers can be applied to kill the millipedes before they are able to enter your house. Note: Pesticides usually have a limited active life and must be re-applied for ongoing control.

Appropriate chemicals can also be applied to outside walls, paths or garden beds and other areas where millipedes may breed.

Chemicals registered for use against millipedes are available from your local supermarket or hardware store.

Note: Chemicals must always be used in accordance with the instructions on the label.

Light-traps

Method 1 – A simple light trap can be made with a piece of PVC stormwater pipe or a box with holes in it. Place it at ground level near a low voltage garden light or weather-proof fluorescent light to attract the millipedes at night. If you can, place the trap along an outside wall near where the millipedes are entering.

The pipe or floor of the box is then treated with an appropriate insecticide to kill the millipedes after they enter.

Method 2 – A container with smooth and vertical sides i.e. a yoghurt tub is buried flush with the ground away from the house. Place a low voltage garden light or weather-proof light above or as close to the container as possible. As the millipedes are attracted to the light they will fall into the container and not be able to climb out.

Note: You may need to check the traps daily, depending on numbers.

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The level of difficulty is only determined by the type of adhesive (glue) and the type of substrate (what the tile is attached to).

The removal and replacement of floor and wall tiles is similar, so for the purpose of this guide both will be considered the same.

Step 1 – Removing the Grout

The grout is what bonds and seals the area between tiles. It protects the floor or wall underneath from moisture.   If you try to remove the tile without removing all of the surrounding grout first, there is a good chance you will chip the adjacent tiles.

Always make sure you wear your safety glasses.

Method 1 – Depending on the age and quality of the grout, you can simply chisel or pry it by using a thin chisel or an old flathead screwdriver. The trick is to tap lightly and to hold the screwdriver at a 45–degree angle to the grout. Note: NEVER drive the chisel down in between two tiles, they will crack and chip. You can also use a utility knife but be careful not to slip and scratch the adjacent tiles.

Always chip “away from” the grout that is in place; once you have about 20cm removed, chisel towards where you just removed the grout from. You are simply trying to expose the sides of the tile or the unglazed portion. If you try to chisel too deeply you will chip the tile; be careful not to use too much force as you may knock other tiles loose. Occasionally you will have to gently scrape little bits of grout from the edges of tile. The secret is to take your time.

Method 2 – Another way of removing grout is to use a carbide tipped scraper. The scraper is specifically designed for grout removal and can be found at most stores that sell ceramic tiles. The good news is that they don’t cost much, but a word of warning – don’t rush the job, if you’re not careful, you could scratch the glazed surface of the other tiles. When using a scraper, apply firm but gentle pressure as you run it across the grout. Keep repeating this action and gradually the grout crumbles and can be removed. Move on when you expose the unglazed edges of the tile.

Be sure to lay an old blanket or drop cloth in the bathtub/shower/basin area. Grout chips, if stepped on, will easily scratch a bath or shower surface. Vacuum the joints to remove all dirt and dust and then wipe with mineral turpentine to ensure it is really clean.

Step 2 – Breaking and Removing the Tile

If you are lucky and the broken tile is loose, simply lift it out and go on to Step 3, otherwise you will need to remove the tile piece by piece.

The best way to do this is to drill a number of evenly spaced holes in the tile which makes it easier to break apart. You can use either a tungsten tip ceramic drill bit or masonry drill bit. Depending on the size of the tile you can generally use a 6. 5mm drill bit. Also see A Quick Guide to Using a Masonry Drill Bit.

Note: You may wish to apply some painter’s tape around the edges of the neighbouring tiles to protect them.

Working from the centre out, gently tap out the broken pieces. Start with the chisel or screwdriver at 90 degrees to the floor, and then switch to a 45–degree angle after you penetrate the glaze.

Once the broken tile is removed, you can use a wider chisel to clean out the old adhesive.

Note: It is important that you clean out as much as possible as the new tile may not stick.

Step 3 – Replacing the Tile

Vacuum any debris and make sure you have not left any lumps in the mortar or adhesive.   Make sure the new tile sits firmly without excessive rocking, and does not sit higher than the surrounding tiles.

Following the manufacture’s instructions, apply a layer of adhesive to the back of the tile with the putty knife. Do not apply the adhesive closer than 10mm to the edge of the tile as you don’t want the glue to squeeze out into the area between the tiles. If excessive glue is squeezed out, use your utility knife or a thin screwdriver to scrape as much as you can.

Press the tile into its place with a slight wiggling motion, which will spread the adhesive and ensure a good bond. Make sure the tile is line with the others.

Step 4 – Fill the Joints with Grout

After allowing the adhesive to dry, you are ready to apply the grout.

For this next step please refer to A Guide to Re–grouting Interior Tiles – Step 2 – Re–grouting for detailed instructions.

Related posts:

1. A Guide to Regrouting Interior Tiles
2. A Guide to Drilling Into Ceramic Tiles

Ants are social insects and live in colonies. Usually there are 3 distinct castes: workers, queens and males. Some species also have “soldiers”.

Eggs are laid by the queen, then develop into larvae, pupate and become adults. The workers feed and care for the queens and developing brood, and are the ones seen foraging for food and water, often at great distances from the colony.

Control – Indoor

Remove Food Sources

Cleanliness is important in preventing infestations by ants. Inside the house, pet food bowls, dirty dishes, food crumbs on the floor, benches or tables and sap sucking insects on indoor plants can all attract ants as potential food sources. Outside the house, unemptied rubbish bins, food and drink cans also encourage ants.  

Chemicals

Chemical control may be warranted if a persistent infestation of ants causes a problem or nuisance. Only use low-toxic chemicals or ant baits inside.

Spraying – The mistake most people make when attempting to control ants is only spraying the ones they see. Typically, there will be thousands of additional ants including one or more egg-laying queens hidden somewhere in a nest. Eliminating queens and other colony members within nests is often the key to effective ant control.

Baits – The advantage in using baits is that foraging ants take the insecticide back to the nest and feed it to the queen(s) and other colony members. This is handy when the nests are difficult to locate or gain access to. Most baits sold to homeowners come pre-packaged with the insecticide and food attractant confined within a plastic, child-resistant container.

Baits are easy to use and often effective. Place the baits next to wherever ants are seen, preferably beside ant "trails". Note: Do not spray other insecticides or cleaning agents around the bait stations, as this will deter ants from feeding on the bait. Initially, you should see an increase in the number of ants around the bait station – DO NOT SPRAY THEM. This indicates that the ants are feeding on the bait and transporting the insecticide back to the nest. Ant activity should decrease in a matter of days.

Continue to place additional baits wherever ants are seen. Ants are rather finicky in their food preferences and this may alter throughout the year. If one bait product isn’t attractive or doesn’t seem to be working, try another. Optimal results usually require a sustained period of feeding, not just a brief visitation by a few ants. Professional pest control firms have a wider selection of bait products to choose from.

Prevention

Ants invade houses searching for food and are more of a nuisance than a danger, and they certainly do not warrant the use of highly toxic insecticides. Use soapy water sprays to kill invading ants until more permanent solutions can be found.

• Proper storage of food – food should be kept in containers that close tightly. Store jam, sugar, honey, sweet sauces, and cough syrups in the fridge. Wipe food containers before storage.
• Pet food should not be left out overnight. Clean pet bowls regularly and create a ‘moat’ by placing the food bowl inside a larger bowl with water to prevent ant access.
• Storage of organic waste – compost buckets need to have tight fitting lids. Bottles, cans and wrappings that have food particles clinging to them should be rinsed out before storage for recycling.
• Cleaning – clean up food scraps and utensils. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove crumbs from corners and cracks in the floor, as well as inside cupboards.
• Sealing cracks – find out where the ants are entering the house and then use a silicon caulk to block their passage.  
• Use natural oils like eucalyptus and lavender as repellents and to disrupt ant trails.

Control – Outdoor

Note: Unless the ants are aggressive try to tolerate them outdoors as they are part of the environment and control many pests such as termites, cockroaches, fleas and flies.

Ants can easily be removed from plant pots by immersing or flooding them until the ants drown.

When a below-ground nest is discovered, the colony often can be eliminated by spraying or drenching the nest location with a liquid insecticide (see the homemade mix below). Large colonies will require greater amounts of liquid to move the insecticide throughout the network of underground galleries within the nest (using a bucket to apply the diluted insecticide concentrate is an effective method). Always follow the label directions for treating ant mounds, paying attention to precautions for mixing and application.

Another effective and convenient way to control some species of outdoor and indoor-nesting ants is with a granular bait product. Sprinkle the bait in small amounts beside outdoor ant mounds, along pavement cracks, and other areas where ants are nesting or trailing.

DIY Spray Mix - Make up a spray containing 500ml of water, a quarter cup of kerosene, a quarter cup of liquid detergent and 4 dessert spoons of vegetable oil, shaken together. Spray a circle about .5 m radius from the nest entrance. Pour a cup of water slowly into the nest entrance, wait a few minutes and then spray all the ants on the surface with the homemade spray or a pyrethrum-based spray. Repeat this procedure every 2-3 days until the ant population declines. Lay 3-6 baits as described below, around the nest.

DIY Baits – Use a boric acid/ sugar solution bait as a least-toxic control. To make the bait, mix 3 cups of water, 1 cup sugar and 4 level teaspoons of a boric acid product. Half fill a small screw-topped jar with cotton wool, saturate with the bait, screw the lid on tightly, seal with adhesive tape, and pierce several small holes in the lid to allow the ants access but prevent removal by larger animals. Keep away from children and pets. This takes a few weeks to wipe out a colony but is more effective than using highly toxic pesticides that only kill the foraging ants, not the colony. Some ants may prefer a mint jelly or peanut butter bait.

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