The Road Goes Ever On

Cedar Breaks - Wildflowers On The Edge

2012-01-12T18:30:00.000-07:00

An interruption of continuity or uniformity. That's the best I can do in finding a meaning for the use of the word "breaks" to describe a geographical feature, and I suppose it fits in a way. Cedar Breaks National Monument exists as a massive amphitheater on the western edge of the Markagunt Plateau. This lofty spectacle showcases eroded badlands and hoodoos rivaling Bryce Canyon not in size but in color and complexity. And it has another dimension in which a superlative comparison exists; Cedar Breaks is located at 10,000 feet above sea level, with a drop to the valley floor exceeding 2500 vertical feet.

The geography alone is marvelous to behold, but Cedar Breaks has other charms, most notably a summer long bonanza of alpine wildflowers that display the full range of natures color palette. These perennial showoffs emerge with the thaw in spring, peak in late June, continue through August into early September, then disappear under heavy white blankets of snow to await another cycle.

Visiting Cedar Breaks is a pleasant diversion from the crowds of Bryce and Zion National Parks, which are well known and heavily trafficked by tourists in the warmer months. Located about halfway between the two, getting there requires a modest but pleasant detour on one of two state highways that cross the plateau. The southern leg is Highway 14 connecting Cedar City at I-15 with Long Valley Junction on U.S. Highway 89. The northern route stretches between Parowan on I-15 and Panguitch at U.S. 89. Each route offers a long, twisting climb through a very scenic forested landscape.

The Monument itself is located on Highway 148, a spur road linking Highway 14 and 143, and is open (weather permitting) during the period from late May to mid-October. In winter a volunteer staff provides limited services on weekends from a yurt located a mile from the parking area. During the summer season the Visitor Center offers information and a bookstore, and a small but well developed campground that has 28 first-come, first-served sites. In addition there are 4 hiking trails offering a range of experiences from easy rim strolls to strenuous descents over 2500 feet into the amphitheater.

Most people experience Cedar Breaks from a few viewpoints along the rim. Those who want a more in-depth look at what there is to see should consider hiking either the Alpine Pond Nature trail or the Spectra/Ramparts trail. Both offer excellent views from different vantage points, although the Ramparts trail is considered moderately strenuous. Remember, the elevation here is much higher than what most folks are accustomed to, and the lack of oxygen can make some people feel ill. Visitors should take it easy and make sure to drink plenty of water.

At the highest elevations in and around the Monument sub-alpine species like aspen, spruce, and fir co-mingle in gladed islands dotting open meadows. There is a massive number of standing dead trees from the onslaught of the spruce bark beetle, but the beauty of the environment remains undiminished. When I visited in early August, the profusion of wildflowers caught my attention, and I spent most of a day digitally capturing the ephemeral glory of plants. I offer some of the pictures here:

Indian Paintbrush and Fireweed

Markagunt Penstemon and Ryan's Penstemon

Colorado Columbine and Mountain Larkspur

Richardson's Geranium and Buckwheat

There were a number of species neither I nor Park personnel could readily identify, despite an extensive catalog at the Visitor Center. And would you believe, there's now an "app for that" featuring Cedar Breaks wildflowers available on ITunes for download. I'm not going there, uh-uh, no how, no way.....

There is also a species of plant I had never seen before known as Elkweed. This unassuming basal rosette of leaves has a lifespan of nearly 80 years. At the end of its life, it sends up a flowering stalk that can reach 6 feet or more, reproduces then dies.

Everywhere you look, the forest is speckled in bright primary colors.

And wasn't there supposed to be some incredible geology around here somewhere? Oh right. I almost forgot about the Breaks. Because of the western facing exposure, sunset here is an amazing place to be. The already vivid red, pink, and white rocks are suffused with a lambent glow as the last golden rays of light bathe the scene.

Along the Ramparts trail you'll find excellent examples of one of the oldest trees in the world, the gnarled and ancient Bristlecone Pine.

Cedar Breaks is not a large place, but it's a very special place. Because it is not as well known as its much larger cousins in the neighborhood, it's easy to find peace and tranquility even at the height of summer tourist season. And if you enjoy the delicate beauty of the botanical world, there's no better place to stop and smell the flowers.

A Lucky Strike In the San Rafael

2012-01-09T19:00:00.000-07:00

Monocline. Anticline. These are the terms geologists apply to landforms when a section of the earth's crust warps or buckles upwards, forming an elongated ridge. Lacking modern scientific insight early anglo pioneers called them reefs, folds, and swells, and viewed them as obstacles to travel in whatever region they found them. There are several of these structures found in the heart of the Colorado Plateau, including one of my favorites, the San Rafael Swell.

The Swell began as an anticline formed beneath the surface some 60 million years ago, eventually emerging as erosion stripped away overlying layers. Faults and fissures in the rock combined with geological time to carve passages through previously horizontal sedimentary layers, providing access to the interior and in some cases a way through.

This wild and rugged stone playground encompasses a large area in south-central Utah, with two distinct regions that straddle Interstate 70. This entry is focused on the southern section, specifically the area found along Red's Canyon Road.

Red's Canyon Road is one of several trails found within the Swell. Geographically the area is bounded on the north by I-70, with the Swell forming a barrier which arcs to the southwest before subsiding in a jumble of smaller reefs and badlands north of Hanksville. The outer perimeter is passable to vehicles at only one location, where a reasonably well maintained dirt road provides access to the interior.

To get to this point, take the paved road which leads to Goblin Valley State Park, found on the west side of Utah Highway 24 between I-70 and Hanksville. Follow the road past the turnoff - the looming mass of the Swell and the narrow canyon which cuts through it are obvious.

Once you've made your way through the narrow channel of rock, the horizon expands in all directions to showcase a dramatic landscape. The northern aspect is dominated by Temple Mountain, a large and craggy outlier of sandstone with colorful badland skirts.

The way west is straightforward, taking a more or less direct path through an area of shallow canyons, staying high at first along the perimeter. Through a gap to the south the Henry Mountains rise above broken country, offering high altitude adventures of their own. I've got a post coming in the future to cover that subject.

Although the roads here are unimproved (i.e., dirt) they are generally in pretty good shape and well signed. The area is very popular with the OHV crowd, and a wide variety of trails with different levels of difficulty are found through the region. Even so, the place is big enough that I have never encountered more than a handful of visitors on any trip. I'm sure there are times such as spring break where that wouldn't apply, but I'm not likely to go there during high use periods, and I don't recommend you do either.

Also, just the standard warning about Utah backways: Rain and snow will turn most roads to gumbo - watch the weather and get out before the storm hits, or be prepared to stay put until things dry out.

The scenery is high desert all the way, featuring scattered pinyon and juniper trees mixed with hardy scrub plants. Horizons are framed with vertical rock faces draped in talus, with monuments and mesas aplenty. If you love canyon country as much as I do, this place will delight and enchant you.

Dropping to the valley floor, the path finds its way into a dry streambed for several miles, twisting this way and that following the line of least resistance. There are lots of interesting visual distractions, including this large slab of stone filled with solution cavities. To me it resembles a piece of abstract art that could be seen in any avant garde museum. Here it's just another example of natures creativity.

Cream and buff colored cliffs seen from a distance grow larger on the horizon, and the eventual approach soon provides an up close view of sheer walls rising hundreds of feet above you. The terrain forces a gradual turn to the south, with the road weaving a distracted course near the base of lofty pinnacles and buttresses.

On this journey like so many others I had no special destination in mind, just rambling along to see where the road would take me. I am never averse to exploring spur roads and trails, and was somewhat surprised to see there were almost no turnoffs from the main track. When I finally encountered a rare fork in the road heading west, I took it.

Within a mile the detour came to an abrupt end as the road entered a hidden side canyon.

The evidence of mining was obvious and unmistakable - an old, decrepit shack nestled below many open shafts, each spilling a fan of tailings onto the slopes below.

Although I did not know it at the time, I had stumbled upon the remains of the Lucky Strike mine, one of many abandoned uranium mines found throughout the Swell. The "heydey" of uranium mining in the Swell began in the late 1800's, and peaked during the early years of the Cold War. Cheaper sources and richer deposits elsewhere in the world spelled the end of active claims in much of the area, although a recent spike in prices may revive some interest.

I found it very interesting to spend some time poking around the debris and equipment left behind, although I would not advise entering any of the mines due to instability and the possibility of exposure to hazardous materials, including radon gas.

After exploring the area for a while I returned to the main road and continued on south, with open vistas to the east and miles of impressive canyon walls rising to the west.

One prominent landmark near the end of the southern leg of Red's Canyon Road is Tomsich Butte. This long, narrow outlier of rock is an isolated remnant of the larger plateau. Scattered around the base of the butte are numerous abandoned shafts from the Dirty Devil uranium mine. Just on the other side lies the canyon where Muddy Creek emerges from the northwest into the larger basin beyond.

Another noteworthy geological formation is found high on the west canyon wall above Muddy Creek - Hondoo (also spelled Hondu) Arch.

From here it's possible to hike up canyon into Muddy Creek, which has a few sections of amazing narrows. To make the journey from end to end requires a car shuttle, although I suppose it's also possible to do a long there-and-back trip.

From Hondoo Arch the road begins a return journey to the east. A few miles along you'll reach a junction with a dirt track heading south to the Hidden Splendor mine. This well known uranium stake produced the most ore of any claim in the area, and made its original owner quite wealthy. I have yet to take this route, but I can sense there is a trip in my future.

Rising gently towards the eastern edge of the Swell, the road affords sweeping vistas of the country to the west. The land is colorful, rugged, and magnificent to the eye.

Red's Canyon Road is only one of several revealing and enjoyable backcountry trips to be found in San Rafael country. The large geographic area and wonderful variety of landscapes ensures many rewarding visits await the intrepid traveler. I know that's why I keep coming back for more.

Goblin Valley - Weird and Wonderful

2011-11-12T18:55:00.000-07:00

You may have heard of the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, where abstract forms and images created by human hands inspire others to think "outside the box" in terms of ideas and imagination.

I have never been there myself, but I am reasonably sure that what I have seen displayed in nature trumps just about anything found in the city. For instance, consider the utterly unusual and otherworldly landscape found in Goblin Valley State Park, located in southcentral Utah. In this remote and somewhat compact area exist some of the oddest and most intriguing formations in a region known around the world for outstanding geological scenery.

This unique attraction contains a maze of eroded sandstone hoodoos that carpet the floor of a high desert valley ringed by a series of buttes to the east and sheer cliffs to the west. The surrounding area is a relatively barren landscape of shifting dunes, naked rock, and no water. Although early anglo settlers may have known of the formations, it was not until the middle part of the last century that the area gained any notoriety.

Despite the isolation early accounts of strange and alien scenery led to increased visitation, and in 1954 the first proposals were made calling for protection of the features found here. Not long after Utah obtained the land and established Goblin Valley State Reserve. In August 1964 the area was declared a State Park, assuring the preservation of this visually valuable resource for the future.

Access to the Park is straightforward. The turnoff is located on the west side of Utah Highway 24 between I-70 and the town of Hanksville. The spur road to the Valley is paved, as is the access road to the overlook. The Park has a modest but well maintained campground which fills quickly on weekends and holidays, but dispersed camping opportunities exist on BLM land nearby. Day use fees apply - at the time of this post the cost was $7.00 per vehicle to enter the Park, or $16.00 for both the access fee and a site in the campground.

There is no "best" way to experience Goblin Valley. The Park road ends at a ramada and information kiosk overlooking the north end of the Valley. Some visitors may be content to view the hoodoos from this slightly elevated point. More ambitious travelers will take the time to walk down a short hill amongst the goblins, where a network of unofficial trails weave in and out between the rock pinnacles.

For the truly adventurous nothing beats an extended stroll along the valley floor, as what is seen from the overlook is merely a fraction of what exists. In fact, the farther south and east you go, the better it gets.

Wandering amidst the fantastically eroded sandstone I found myself imagining that this is what walking on another planet would look like. Had the sky been red, pink, or orange it would be easy to believe you were traversing the surface of Mars, since much of the terrain resembles images sent back to Earth from the NASA rovers Spirit and Opportunity. The absence of plant life of any kind definitely reinforced the notion. And apparently Hollywood agrees with that idea, as the Valley has been featured as an extraterrestrial backdrop for a number of science fiction movies.

Although no established trail exists through the Valley, major landmarks on the horizon allow visitors to find their way around without becoming lost. Wild Horse Butte rises to the northwest, while the Henry Mountains dominate the southern skyline.

There are many twists and turns to this natural labyrinth, and exploring the area thoroughly could easily fill a full day. The best part is that it's easy to find solitude even when the Park is busy, as crowds thin dramatically once you move away from the vicinity of the overlook.

Like many spectacular western landscapes, the appeal of Goblin Valley increases significantly when the last rays of daylight bathe the already surreal setting with golden light.

My encounter with Goblin Valley was at once enchanting and fulfilling. I could easily return and spend another day exploring a very unusual and intriguing environment.

There are so many truly amazing sights to be seen in the American Southwest that it makes choosing which ones to visit very challenging. But if you happen to be passing this way you owe it to yourself to spend at least part of the day experiencing a place that is probably the closest any of us will get to visiting another world - and you can leave the spacesuits at home.

Crack In The Rock - Secret Galleries of the Ancestral People

2011-11-01T23:03:00.000-07:00

Confluence. That's the word that best describes what occurred over 800 years ago in this arid, high desert place. Sometime around 1040 and 1100 A.D., nearby Sunset Crater erupted, spewing forth a layer of insulating volcanic ash. Also around that time people from surrounding areas migrated into the sparsely settled region and began to farm small plots, taking advantage of the moisture retaining properties of loose cinders.

Over time these new populations grew and expanded, building larger structures and dwellings, eventually reaching an estimated population of several thousand people within a days walk. Then for reasons unknown, nearly 150 years after the influx began the region became once again devoid of significant habitation. Today the remnants of this culture are preserved at Wupatki National Monument just northeast of the modern day enclave of Flagstaff, Arizona.

The southwestern part of North America contains a wealth of human history that stretches well into the past. I have enjoyed the pleasure of seeing many of the better known sites, such as Chaco Canyon, Mesa Verde, Betatakin, and Keet Seel to name just a few. I had also visited Wupatki briefly once before long ago, but as the Monument is in my backyard so to speak, I had long overlooked the hidden treasures contained within its borders. Fortunately I recently had a chance to correct my oversight.

Like many National Parks and Monuments, Wupatki focuses the visitor's attention on the highlights. Developed sites are accessed via a loop road which also connects with nearby Sunset Crater National Monument. The main attractions along the road are stabilized and accompanied by interpretive signs, giving nearly all a chance to see and learn more about what is preserved here. I will spend time in a future post providing detailed information about more accessible parts of the Monument, but for this entry I want to share a place where most people will never go.

Crack In The Rock

To protect and preserve the many sites found within the Monument, there are places the general public are not allowed to go without a guide. In an effort to provide access to visitors who want to know more, Monument staff conducts day hikes during the summer to various locations. But in order to see the most extensive collection of sites and petroglyphs found here, you must be willing and able to undertake a rigorous overnight hike deep into the backcountry.

I'm referring to the trip to Crack In The Rock, a 16 mile (approximately) backpacking trip that takes a small group (no more than 12 people per hike) to visit some amazing petroglyphs and structures far from the comforts of the Visitor Center. Conducted on select weekends in April and October, the hike has become popular enough that in order to participate you must submit your name for a lottery. If chosen, you will accompany a Park Service escort into a wild and scenic landscape to learn more about how people managed to survive in the challenging environment.

The Park Service is rightfully concerned about protecting the resource for the future, and asks participants not to disclose sensitive information regarding the location of the hike, and I will not do so here. GPS units are strictly forbidden, and access is tightly controlled.

The Hike

Meeting at the Visitor Center at the designated time, we cover the ground rules (don't touch or take, stay with the group, etc.) and carpool to the starting point, a nondescript clearing several miles off the road. We shoulder packs which are heavier than usual for an overnight hike, because everyone is required to carry a minimum of two gallons of water. The weight is hardly felt however as the surrounding beauty quickly begins to mesmerize.

There is no trail, just a long ramble over often rugged terrain. The scene is one of near barren austerity, with scattered shrubs consisting mostly of blackthorn and saltbush. There are widely dispersed juniper trees providing scant shade, but little else. A fine layer of black cinder sand fills the many small washes and drainages that wend a serpentine course between outcrops of Moenkopi sandstone. The only real topographical relief comes from a nearby monocline, an upthrust ridge of Kaibab limestone that dominates the horizon.

I did this hike in late October, and the weather was perfect, with daytime highs in the mid-60's and nightime lows in the 30's. But be warned. The climate here is quite variable, and our guide regaled us with stories of 90 degree temperatures under a relentless sun, and blinding snowstorms that required evacuation.

Not long after starting out, we reach the first of many structures found along the way. In nearly all cases these are located on the high point of an exposed formation of Moenkopi sandstone. We will never know why these places were selected, but it's easy to imagine that all-encompassing views of the surrounding area was one reason. That, and the abundance of building materials at hand.

Using stone slabs fractured along one edge in linear fashion, the technique used to make walls is very similar to the "core and veneer" construction found at other sites in the Four Corners area. The walls were once mortared with clay found along the Little Colorado River some distance away, but time and weather have stripped away the bonds holding the blocks together, and the stones are slowly returning to the state in which they were found.

More evidence of domestic life is found scattered amongst the detritus of the hill - pottery sherds from bowls and vessels used to store and prepare food. Many different styles of pottery have been found at Wupatki, and evidence suggests that the people living here were a mixture of several cultures. These are primarily the Sinagua from the south, the Cohonina from northwest, and the Kayenta Anasazi from the north.

As the group continues on a series of structures appear, each one crowning a broken hill of reddish brown sandstone.

After pausing briefly at each new encounter with the remains of a vanished civilization, we continue making steady progress towards our ultimate destination.

After the ancestral puebloans left the area hundreds of years ago, the land did not remain entirely abandoned. Navajo families migrated into the Four Corners region beginning sometime in the 15th century, in some case clashing with the descendants of the earlier inhabitants, the Hopi people. The Navajo (or Dine as they refer to themselves) were somewhat nomadic, herding sheep, raising crops in canyon bottoms, and hunting game. They too left their mark on this place, in the form of hogans, sheep pens, and sweat lodges.

Cultural remains are not the only items of interest out here. This picture shows slabs of Moenkopi sandstone that have captured ripples from a shallow sea, now frozen in stone.

Further on isolated islands of sandstone rise progressively higher, forming elevated mesas. Many of these summits hold stone structures built on the precipice.

Most of the day has passed when the country in front of us opens up, providing sweeping views of the Little Colorado River Valley and badland cliffs of the Hopi Reservation on the opposite side. We are soon heading for the campsite area, where we are given time to settle in before making a late afternoon visit to Crack In The Rock.

After a short rest we make our way back up the slope of a nearby mesa. At the base of the exposed Moenkopi cliffs we make a circumnavigation of the naked rock, where our Park Service guide begins to point out the first of thousands of works of prehistoric art etched into the stone.

Although we have yet to ascend the mesa top, the views are incredible as the low angle sun casts shadows that define the folds and creases of the land below.

Looking up, the remains of the pueblo rise above, man-made extensions of sheer rock walls.

Before climbing up, there are many panels of petroglyphs to examine.

Crack In The Rock gets its name from the unique method of accessing the pueblo - through a narrow gap which emerges via a doorway onto the plaza. Many of the puebloan peoples in existence today have a creation story which mentions an entrance into this world which is often called a "sipapu". It is possible that this particular method of reaching the mesa top represents a similar idea, and the pueblo was constructed in this way for just that reason. Or not. Remember, we're just guessing here.

Entering the open space of the plaza finally reveals the ruins of the pueblo. All that remains of what was once a living, breathing community of humans are crumbling walls that open to the vault of sky, and endless vistas that must have inspired the occupants even then.

After the sun slips beneath the horizon, darkness chases us from the mesa top and we return to camp, where we share food and fellowship around a thoughtful campfire. The Park Service was gracious enough to haul a portable toilet and firewood to an otherwise spartan location, making for a most welcome evening. The next morning we arise with the return of our companion star and get an early start, for many more petroglyph panels await.

Day Two

Starting from the previous nights camp, we shoulder our packs and head back towards the mesas. There are three distinct formations, one of which (Crack In The Rock) we visited the night before. Today the arc of our journey is similar, although we will not climb to the summit of any other features. Instead we visit the area where talus slopes meet the sheer face of sandstone which form the upper cliff bands. These smooth, vertical surfaces made ideal palettes for artisans from hundreds of years past, blank canvas on which to etch pictures and images of significance.

When we reach a spot between the mesas, we drop our packs before making the final approach. This is to assure that the extra weight and bulk carried on our backs does no damage to the panels and structures we visit, and it also makes climbing up and down the loose rocky slopes much easier.

There are so many pictures, and so few answers. Many of the etchings echo themes of the hunt, with animals featured in prominent positions. But others defy easy characterization, and without any written or verifiable oral history to explain the often surreal beings and designs, we can never be sure what meaning the creators assigned to their work, We can attempt interpretations, but I prefer to let the images speak for themselves.

Three mesas in this area hold the majority of structures and petroglyphs. We visited Crack In The Rock on the previous day, leaving two for discovery on the return trip. We walk along the talus slope of each mesa, where it seems every rock face holds a wealth of visual images from the past. There are far too many pictures to post here, so here is a sampling of what we saw.

One obvious landmark on the horizon are the San Francisco Peaks. These are the tallest mountains in Arizona, reaching 12,633 feet above sea level at the highest point, and are visible for many miles across the relatively flat high desert. The Peaks figure prominently in Native American culture, forming one of four cardinal points in Navajo theology, and are considered to be the home of spiritual beings known as Katsinas (also spelled Kachina) by the Hopi.

Our Park Service guide did an excellent job at providing information about the geography and culture of the region. She managed to find the perfect balance between allowing us the greatest possible access while still protecting the integrity of sites. Her knowledge, competence, and professionalism helped to make the experience very worthwhile.

We continued to explore along the base of the cliffs, viewing panel after panel. When we reach the end of the line, we drop back to the ravine between mesas and take a short break in this scenic drainage before climbing back up to the second outcropping.

The valley floor is littered with artifacts including pottery sherds and this stone fragment, possibly broken off a larger spear tip.

When we reach the face of the third mesa the wealth of rock art continues.

Eventually we reach the end of the cliff face, and head back down to the packs, our heads full of strange images and ideas. There is plenty to think about on the return trip to civilization.

Even though the highlight of our visit is behind us, there is still much to see as we make our way back to the vehicles. There are more Navajo structures, interesting many-headed barrel cactus, several vividly colored collared lizards, and the beauty of the landscape itself.

When we stop for lunch, our guide shows us even more petroglyphs and pottery sherds nearby.

The remainder of the hike passes quickly, and we are soon parting company. The trip has been memorable for me, and I've tried to summarize the experience as best I can. Still, there are feelings and ideas that occurred along the way that words and pictures cannot convey.

Living in the modern world ill prepares me to understand how these early inhabitants felt about the landscape they called home. But after viewing the images they created and the places they chose to live, I think they must have have appreciated beauty as much as I do.

Chaco Canyon - Compass, Calendar, Ceremonial City Part II

2011-10-27T10:07:00.000-07:00

In 9th century Europe, the empire of Charlemagne ends with his death, and the rise of modern nations like France and Germany begins. Norsemen expand their range, taking advantage of a temporary rise in global temperatures to settle into Greenland and Nova Scotia. In the Middle East Arabic scholars invent algebra, and the first glass mirror. In Asia, the T'ang Dynasty has collapsed, replaced by the Sung Dynasty. And in North America, the rise of an advanced culture using sophisticated architecture and celestial observations begins on the Colorado Plateau.

These were the Chacoans, ancestors of today's Puebloan tribes. For 300 years under the southwestern sun a community of people farmed the fertile bottomlands of Chaco Canyon, using observed movements of the sun, moon, and stars to plant and harvest crops. At least that is the theory. Since no written record or history is available to document the daily life of the inhabitants, archaeologists and paleontologists must infer practices and habits from in situ evidence left behind. Fortunately there is a great deal to work with.

I introduced Chaco Culture National Historical Park in an earlier post, focusing on two of the larger and better known Great Houses - Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl. These magnificent examples of Chacoan engineering and craftsmanship are located in the core of the valley, sometimes humorously referred to as "downtown" because of the density of sites found in the area. But remnants of this civilization are far flung, covering a wide region including areas outside Chaco Canyon. This blog entry features some of the other structures found in the Park.

Wijiji

The larger and better known Great Houses are located in close proximity to the Loop Road, which is the 9 mile long main Park artery. However some sites cannot be reached with an automobile, and are located in the Park backcountry. Wijiji is one such place.

Like many other places in the area the name comes from the Navajo language. It is adapted from the word for greasewood, which is diwozhii. Navajo people migrated to the region in the 1400's, settling in lands that at the time were unoccupied. Many families still live throughout the region today. especially to the west on the sprawling Navajo Reservation.

Utilizing a service road that is also open to bicycles, reaching Wijiji is relatively easy. The trailhead is located in close proximity to Gallo Campground, making for convenient access to campers. Roundtrip the distance is 3 miles over level terrain, although no shade exists so it could be quite warm in summer.

Just a note - A free backcountry permit is required for this and all trails in the Park, which is available at the Visitor Center or the trailhead itself.

Wijiji blends in so well with the surroundings it can be hard to spot until you are right on top of it. Low, crumbling walls of sandstone match perfectly with the rubble beneath the canyon walls.

Dated to around 1110 A.D., this is one of the youngest Great Houses, and it remains unexcavated At the time of construction, 225 rooms were built around 2 kivas. Situated on a foundation of sand and clay instead of stone, it has suffered structural problems from a shifting base.

There are some curious differences between Wijiji and other Great Houses in that it lacks a Great Kiva, a refuse midden (trash heap), and an arch of connected rooms enclosing the plaza. These missing features lead some researchers to speculate that the pueblo was never finished.

Wijiji is a quiet place, remote from other sites. The beauty of the canyon setting allows the visitor to experience the power and presence of the natural world much the way the builders must have felt it.

About 12 miles east of Wijiji is another Great House called Pueblo Pintado (spanish for "painted town") which is not accessible from within the Park. It was the first Chacoan structure encountered by anglos during the 1849 military survey of the region. It was built around 1060 and unlike Wijiji shows signs of human occupation.

Pueblo del Arroyo

Pueblo del Arroyo (spanish for "town by the wash") is located in the core area of the Chaco complex, not far from Pueblo Bonito. One of the chief features which distinguishes this Great House from others is its location - in the center of the valley away from the canyon walls.

Built in at least two stages over a hundred year period from 1025 to 1125, the structure contained 280 rooms and 20 kivas, but lacked a Great Kiva. Exploring the ruins is made easy with a 1/4 mile paved walking trail which circumnavigates the walls.

I did a doubletake when I first spotted this "camouflaged" rain gutter - technology beyond the scope of Chacoan culture. The Park Service mandate requires preservation and stabilization of the ruins, and part of that effort is to minimize environmental damage. While I was visiting, I witnessed several Navajo masons doing restoration and repair work on the walls at Pueblo del Arroyo, using the same materials and techniques as the original architects.

Casa Rinconada

On the south side of Chaco Wash lies the largest Great Kiva found in the area. The site is found along the Loop Road, and is known as Casa Rinconada, or "corner house" in Spanish.

This impressive semi-subterranean ceremonial chamber exhibits a very precise orientation to points of the compass, with opposing doors lying within less than 1 degree of true north-south. This line can be continued to connect with Tsin Kletzin to the south and Pueblo Alto to the north, two Chacoan Great Houses located above the canyon on the mesas. This line also coincides with the network of roads extending beyond the canyon, which is another impressive Chacoan accomplishment I'll cover later.

Additionally, window apertures lining the interior wall of the kiva lie within 1 degree of an east-west axis. The ability to fix cardinal directions with such accuracy indicates the depth to which the Chacoan culture was able to study the heavens and understand the patterns associated with them.

It is also believed but not wholly proven that some of the alignments of apertures and doors within Casa Rinconada played a role in measuring the solstice, allowing for accurate forecasting of the seasons.

Unlike Great Kivas associated with a structure containing rooms and a plaza, Casa Rinconada stands alone, although several smaller villages that were built and occupied around the same time as the Great Houses across the valley are located close by.

A 1/2 mile walking trail allows for an exploration of the kiva and surrounding structures. Most of what remains of the villages are low walls that once enclosed multiple room buildings scattered on low hills south and east of the Great Kiva.

Over 1200 years ago a civilization emerged from the high desert to establish a well developed society, one that lived in harmony with its world. Though not sophisticated by modern standards, these people were masters of the environment, using astronomy and engineering to build structures that embodied the knowledge they had achieved.

We still don't know what purpose or meaning they intended with their elaborate and extensive architecture. But we do know that they were keen observers of all that happened in their world, and they used that awareness to create a society that lasted for nearly 300 years, and a legacy that endures to this day.

With all our science and technology, can we do better?

Navigating Capitol Reef - Upper Muley Twist

2011-10-27T10:04:00.000-07:00

Muley Twist. Whoever named this strikingly beautiful canyon in the southern end of the Waterpocket Fold surely had a sense of the whimsical, for just saying "Muley Twist" out loud conjures up a mental picture worth savoring. The story goes that the canyon is so tight in the narrowest sections it would "make a mule twist" as it passed through. Maybe so.

There are two sections to the canyon, designated Upper and Lower Muley Twist. Both can be accessed from the Burr Trail where it bisects the Fold. This post is dedicated to Upper Muley Canyon - I'll cover Lower Muley Canyon at some point in the near future.

The trail to Upper Muley Canyon begins at the parking area for the Strike Valley Overlook. Visitors can reach the turnoff to the overlook in one of two ways. Coming from the west, take the Burr Trail from the town of Boulder off Utah Highway 12. This very scenic route is paved for about 30 miles until the boundary of Capitol Reef National Park, where it then turns to dirt and gravel. From this point it is an additional 2.2 miles to the junction.

The other access is from the east via the Bullfrog - Notom Road, which begins about 10 miles east of the Capitol Reef Visitor Center on Utah Highway 24. This equally beautiful drive is paved for the first 10 miles, then becoming graded dirt for the next 22.5 miles. At the signed junction with Burr Trail, head west (right) up the switchbacks. This approach can quickly become impassable during wet weather, so be sure to check with Park Service personnel before heading this way.

Look for a wooden Park Service sign to the west indicating the turn for Upper Muley Twist. The spur is marked "4 wheel drive", and under some conditions this is probably true, but after extended dry periods a high clearance vehicle is sufficient.

If you aren't comfortable negotiating 2.8 miles of sandy, rocky washbottom in your car or truck, a parking area with a trail register is found .4 miles from the turnoff, although starting from this point adds nearly 5 miles of additional walking to the 9 mile hike. Whether you continue to the trailhead on foot or by vehicle, there is plenty of fantastic scenery to absorb along the way, including two of the seven arches you will see on this trip.

The first appears near the beginning of the spur road, and is seen in the picture at the top of this post. It is a "peekaboo" arch cut in the Navajo sandstone. The second is shown below, and is found just west of the road about half way to the trailhead. As of this writing I have yet to discover the names of these two features.

After nearly 3 miles, the road comes to an end at the small parking area serving as trailhead for both Upper Muley Twist and Strike Valley Overlook. Park here and head upstream (north) in the wash bed.

Walking is easy in the broad, sandy wash. The high canyon walls remain well off the path at first, with alternating low slopes of both Wingate and Navajo sandstone forming slickrock benches along the way. Vegetation consists of classic Utah high desert, with dark green pinyon and juniper trees contrasting nicely with the whites and oranges of naked rock.

At around 1.5 miles from the trailhead, Muley Arch appears on the west wall.

Soon the walls begin to narrow considerably, with sections of Wingate again forming low terraces along either side of the channel.

The graceful arc of Saddle Arch soon appears on the west, near a junction with the trail that descends from the spine of the Reef. This is where the hiker must choose which path to take.

Hikers with previous experience on this trail suggest a clockwise route; this direction makes the elevation gain seem less arduous, and there are a few sections where a friction ascent/descent of the slickrock are required. For some the perception is that it's easier to climb than it is to come down, but it's all a matter of personal preference.

After hiking it for myself I agree with taking the left (clockwise) leg, and recommend staying in the canyon bottom to continue north. The payoff in terms of scenery is almost immediate, as a drainage enters from the west flanked by two arches high on the Wingate slopes.

First on the left is a small arch with a tree growing below it:

Then on the right is another small "eyebrow" arch:

Beyond the drainage the canyon has narrowed a bit, with a shallow Wingate trough framing the wash bottom, and a high wall of Navajo sandstone on the east. In dry weather negotiating this section is relatively easy, but accumulating rain or snow will fill several shallow basins along the way, meaning either wet, muddy feet or a bypass on the slope to the right.

Another very scenic but short slot canyon enters from the west, with yet another arch on the northwest wall. This arch is not yet fully formed, being still connected to the main wall in the center. So technically, it's a double arch, but who's counting?

Beyond this point the canyon walls close in, pinching off to a narrow slot. Most hikers can continue on for a few hundred yards, while experienced technical canyoneers can go some distance beyond that, but all visitors must eventually retreat, for there is no way through.

Instead, the trail now leaves the canyon bottom and heads straight up the steep, rocky shelf to bypass the restriction.

The path makes its way along the somewhat exposed ledge above the narrows, winding across boulder strewn slopes amidst pinyon and juniper scrub.

On the opposite canyon wall distinctive "marblecake" humps draw the eye.

Looking down, a thin ribbon of green cottonwood trees marks the canyon bottom.

After a fair bit of scrambling along the talus beneath the high walls, the trail deposits the hiker back in the wash bottom at the end of the impassable narrows.

A few more minutes of walking along the sandy wash leads to another detour, this time to exit the canyon along a fault line route to the rim.

As you make your way to the top of the Navajo formation, the path offers sweeping views up and down the canyon.

On top of the Waterpocket Fold, a very impressive sight is unveiled - the long panorama of Strike Valley, with the Henry Mountains rising majestically over Oyster Shell Reef.

To the west uplifted Wingate sandstone domes and humps dominate the scene.

From here, the trail follows the spine of the Reef, traversing long stretches of slickrock alternating with sandy islands of pinyon and juniper. Keeping track of the trail relies on the placement of many cairns along the way, some of which may be difficult to spot.

High on the ridge the views are endless, and many opportunities arise to simply stop and survey the tilted landscape. The crossbedded sandstone adds an intriguing pattern to the visual feast, and offers a smooth sloping surface to take a moments rest.

At one point there's a break in the Fold, necessitating a sudden descent along a loose, rocky section followed by a friction climb up an equally steep slickrock face.

Back on top the amazing scenery continues to entrance as the path follows the contours of the Reef, at one point dropping once again to a sandy bench before climbing back to the rim.

Looking west, two arches flanking the drainage that were seen earlier from below appear across the canyon.

After two miles of more or less following the crest, the trail reaches the sign marking the descent and return route to the canyon floor.

As you make your way back to the wash bottom amongst the detritus of the eroding slopes, be sure to take one last look at the terrain covered on this southern leg of the journey.

The trail returns to the wash bottom near Saddle Arch. From here it's an easy two miles back to the beginning. Although the path passed this way earlier, the opportunity to see the surroundings from a downstream point of view offers a new perspective.

There are many amazing hikes in Capitol Reef National Park that allow visitors to view the incredible geology and geography of the Waterpocket Fold, and Upper Muley Twist is one of the best. It might be a little harder to get to than most, but that's part of the appeal.

You might remember Chubby Checker singing his famous tune: "C'mon baby.... Let's do the Twist." Take his advice, it'll do you good.

Chaco Canyon - Compass, Calendar, Ceremonial City Part I

2011-10-15T19:51:00.006-07:00

As "modern" humans we give ourselves a great deal of credit for sophistication and intelligence. While it is true our society has made great strides in technology and science to improve the lives of people, ofttimes we overlook the accomplishments of those who came before us, the inhabitants of the Americas who once thrived here long before Europeans "discovered" the New World.

Though these ancestral civilizations faded away over 700 years ago to become scattered remnants of today's Puebloan people, an amazing amount of what they wrought upon the land still stands in testament to their skill and ingenuity as architects and engineers of the environment. Of these achievements the best example of how these indigenous cultures lived in harmony with their surroundings exists at Chaco Culture National Historical Park in northwestern New Mexico.

Thought to be a ceremonial and administrative center for a civilization that stretched throughout the Four Corners region, Chaco Canyon contains an array of structures that demonstrate extensive awareness of seasonal and astronomical cycles necessary to sustain an agricultural people in their daily lives. Although no written histories or records exist to illuminate how exactly this society functioned, much can be inferred from the extensive number of ruins, pictographs, petroglyphs, and associated detritus left behind. A visit to Chaco reveals a fascinating glimpse into a world that once flourished for centuries, where circuits of the Sun, Moon, and stars provided a framework for the organization of life.

Getting There

Chaco Canyon lies in a sparsely populated and remote area in the high desert. Bordered on the west by the Navajo Nation, the Cultural Park is administered by the National Park Service. Though the few roads within the Park are paved, access to the area is on dirt roads from the north or south. The recommended route for most visitors is the 21 mile long north road, 13 miles of which are unpaved. Another option for travelers coming from the south is a sometimes impassable 20 mile dirt road, which should be avoided in wet weather. To download a map and specific directions visit this link.

On my recent visit I used both access roads, arriving from the south and departing to the north. The southern approach is lonely and quite scenic, but definitely much rougher. I would only suggest using high clearance vehicles even in good weather. The road is heavily rutted and washboarded, and much of the time my speed was limited to less than 10 miles per hour.

The northern road can also have many sections of washboard, but it sees more frequent maintenance and vehicle traffic, meaning assistance would be more likely to arrive in the event of a breakdown or mishap.

Regardless of how you get there, the first stop should be the Visitor Center to orient yourself and get information about the wide variety of things to see and experience. I strongly recommend that you give yourself 2 full days to explore as much of the park as possible, as some sites require hiking to reach, and ruins such as Pueblo Bonito are so expansive they deserve as much thoughtful time as you can devote.

Accommodations

No lodging exists within the Park, leaving only Gallo Camground as a place to spend the night. The closest communities with hotels/motels are over 60 miles away, and while it is possible to make the return journey over multiple days to see the Park, it is not overly practical.

The campground offers basic amenities, but no hookups. Some sites are designated as tent or RV only, and all except the two group sites are filled on a first-come, first served basis. As the sign above indicates, the campground may fill up on busy weekends and peak visitation periods, so be prepared to find other options if space is unavailable.

Getting Around

Many of the larger Great Houses and pueblos in the Park are seen via the Loop Road, a one way, 9 mile long paved route running parallel to the wash bottom through the canyon. From the Loop Road, hiking trails provide access to other sites on the canyon rim and beyond the end of the road.

One thing that struck me about my visit to Chaco was how bike friendly the Park is. The Loop Road and a few other paths are well suited to biking, making a majority of the sites available to anyone on two wheels. Those interested in reducing their impact on the environment as well as enjoying a quality recreational experience might consider leaving a vehicle at the campground or Visitor Center and using a bike to reach most of the ruins.

Chacoan Great Houses

The term "Great House" denotes more about architecture than anything else. The 14 recognized Chacoan Great Houses typically embody large numbers of rooms, anywhere from 100 to 700 of substantial size, larger than those found in previous Ancestral Pueblo dwellings. Walls were constructed using a core and veneer method unique to the culture, and buildings rose to four and even five stories above ground.

Enclosed circular and semi-subterranean structures known as kivas were integrated into the buildings, and large plazas that served as open communal space surrounded the contruction. Oddly enough, today most researchers believe only small groups inhabited these very large complexes year-round, with populations increasing only for short periods during times of ceremony or celebration.

Pueblo Bonito

The largest and most studied Great House found at Chaco is Pueblo Bonito, a massive structure that includes over 650 rooms. Built in stages from 828 A.D. to around 1126 A.D., its four story height necessitated walls of over 3 feet wide at the base, an indication that the structure was planned as a "high-rise" from inception.

One must see this impressive feat of engineering in person to truly appreciate what was accomplished by masons and craftsmen of the time. The scale is larger than anything else seen in North America, and it is easy to imagine the challenges faced by builders, as stone is sculpted, squared, and fit with precision, and lumber for needed support had to be transported from mountains over 50 miles distant. Not impossible, but enormously difficult for a culture using only stone tools and without the aid of horses or wheels.

In 1941 a large block of sandstone appropriately named Threatening Rock collapsed onto the northeastern section of Pueblo Bonito, obliterating over 60 excavated rooms. It is evident the builders were aware of the potential disaster as they had attempted to shore up the foundation of the semi-detached fragment while building the north wall, but eventually gravity trumps all when it comes to erosion.

Pueblo Bonito are spanish words meaning "pretty village", and was first described by Anglos during an 1849 U.S. Army expedition out to survey the western portion of New Mexico. After the party left the area, little additional exploration of the area occurred until 1896 when controversial rancher cum archaeologist Richard Wetherill entered the picture.

Mr. Wetherill first gained notoriety when he and a fellow cowboy stumbled across what is now called Cliff Palace at Mesa Verde in 1888. In what modern archaeologists view as an unforgivable outrage he and fellow explorers rooted around within the ruins, excavating and removing thousands of artifacts. In doing so much of the history and context was destroyed, and although some of the items were donated to the Colorado Historical Society, much of what was taken found its way into private collections.

His involvement at Chaco Canyon several years later was part of a semi-academic effort labeled the "Hyde Exploring Expedition", sponsored by the American Museum of Natural History and financed by New York philanthropists and collectors B. Talbot and Frederick E. Hyde Jr. In five years all of the major sites at Chaco Canyon had been documented and photographed, and again large numbers of excavated artifacts were sent away, with most eventually becoming part of the collection at the American Museum.

After the expedition ended, Richard Wetherill attempted to homestead several sites within the canyon including Pueblo Bonito, but his efforts were unsuccessful. Somewhat ironically his claims resulted in the eventual protection of Chaco Canyon, as the government Land Office investigating the patents strongly recommended that this significant cultural property be federally protected. In 1907 Theodore Roosevelt used the newly enacted Antiquities Act to establish Chaco Canyon National Monument.

Richard Wetherill stayed on at Chaco Canyon after his land grab was denied, operating a successful trading post until his untimely death in 1910 from gunshot wounds suffered in a dispute with a local Navajo. He and his wife are interred at a small plot west of Pueblo Bonito.

Pueblo Bonito is remarkably well preserved, although some stabilization and reconstruction work has been performed. The extensive size of the site allows visitors to walk through many of the rooms on the east side of the complex, and Park Rangers offer daily talks which help shed light on how people used different parts of the structure. For those on a different schedule a self-guided walking tour using an interpretive brochure is available, a useful tool which also helps the visitor better understand the site.

After touring the ruins, a short path leads east along the cliff face where several interesting pictographs can be seen. There is also a pamphlet available for this brief hike that provides information about the various panels and possible explanations for the symbols.

Chetro Ketl

Just east of Pueblo Bonito is another large Chacoan Great House named Chetro Ketl. According to the native guide who accompanied the 1849 expedition the name means "rain village or pueblo", but no other source confirms that idea. Chetro Ketl shares the same characteristic "D" shaped layout as its larger neighbor, but the complex has a single Great Kiva for the estimated 450 - 550 rooms, and one section fronting the plaza features colonnade style architecture thought to resemble that of the Toltec culture found in Central America.

This picture illustrates the columnar style that archaeologists link to a possible Central American connection with the building of Chetro Ketl. Evidence suggests that Chacoan peoples traded far and wide through the region, and it is altogether likely that not only goods were exchanged, but ideas as well. At some point the spaces between the colonnades were filled in, but it is easy to see the difference between materials and construction style.

Chetro Ketl and Pueblo Bonito are just two amazing examples of the industry and ingenuity of the builders who called this canyon and surrounding area home for over 300 years. There is much left to explore, with even more complexes in the canyon and on the mesa tops, all linked and aligned in accordance to the patterns discerned by the people who knew this land best.

Navigating Capitol Reef - Navajo Knobs

2011-10-08T07:44:00.004-07:00

Vertical relief is a wonderful thing. Since humans began walking the earth, people have always sought out higher ground. Standing atop a summit, the rumpled pleats and creases of the terrain unfold before you, revealing much that cannot be descried from ground level. Aside from the advantage of far reaching vistas, there is also a sense of accomplishment that derives from scaling massive geographic features, as though somehow we can conquer stone and rock that dwarfs us in every other way.

An excursion to the Navajo Knobs provides the perfect opportunity to elevate above the impressive geologic feature known as the Waterpocket Fold, a massive monocline showcased in Capitol Reef National Park. This somewhat strenuous trail offers the highest vantage point of any established hike in the Park, as well as inspiring views along the way. Round trip distance is about 9 miles, with an elevation gain over 1700 feet. The first 2.25 miles of the trail follows the same path as the Rim Overlook, beginning on the north side of Utah Highway 24 at the Hickman Bridge Trail.

Since I covered the hike to the Rim Overlook in a previous post linked above, we'll continue the journey from that point. By now the hiker will be familiar with the trail layout - long, moderately steep sections across slickrock benches alternating with contours along the edge of the Fold.

The route is easy to follow, thanks to extensive cairns along the way and the obvious lay of the land. Although significant elevation was gained to reach the Rim Overlook, some of that will be lost and recovered as the trail drops into a long bay before climbing back up to the Knobs. The good news is that the magnificent views keep the hiker entranced, oblivious to tired legs or the incessant climb.

The Knobs are named for the formation they are sculpted out of - the Navajo Sandstone. This beautiful white rock is found in the upper reaches of the Reef, forming domes, pinnacles, and spires throughout the Park. In some cases the rock is stained a golden brown from the remnants of the overlying Carmel formation, like in the case of the Golden Throne. Below the Navajo is Wingate sandstone colored in deep reddish orange, with the Chinle further down mantling the base in purples, reds and pale greens.

After dipping back and down along the edge of the fold, the trail begins a final approach to the Knobs.

At the Knobs the path takes a loop around the base, with a rugged scramble up the north side to access the summit.

Once on top of the Knobs, it is time to enjoy the reward earned by the effort to get here - the amazing 360 degree views of the rugged land below and beyond.

From horizon to horizon, the views encompass all the landmarks of the region: the plateaus of Thousand Lake and Boulder Mountains rising to near 10,000 feet, the laccolithicHenry Mountains to the east at over 11,000 feet, the upwarp of Miners Mountain to the south, and the full northern expanse of the Waterpocket Fold curving from northwest to the south.

On a clear day it is even possible to get a good look at another monocline on the northern skyline, the jagged upthrust of the San Rafael Swell.

There is a publication based in Colorado whose banner phrase is "When in doubt, go higher" This is good advice on so many levels, but it is particularly apt when hiking in Capitol Reef. Of course in this case I had no doubt, just a strong urge to survey as much of the incredible landscape as possible. Veni, vidi, vici.

Peekaboo and Queens Garden - Bryce Canyon

2011-09-16T10:48:00.012-07:00

As a place of intricate and colorful geology, there are few parallels in the world to Bryce Canyon. When viewed from one of the many overlooks contained within the National Park, a bewildering array or spires, fins, and hoodoos shaded in pinks, white, browns, and reds compete for the viewers attention. As spectacular as the vista is, it becomes even more dramatic when you venture below the rim and into the land of standing rocks.

In an earlier post on the Fairyland Loop I showcased some of the wondrous sights found in the interior, and there's plenty more to see on other Park trails, in this case a combination using the Navajo Trail to descend, circumnavigating the Peekaboo Loop, and then continuing on and out with the Queens Garden Trail.

This hike is a great way to see much of interior of Bryce Amphitheater, considered to be the main attraction for many visitors. At a total distance of 6.5 miles and an overall elevation change over 3000 feet, it might be strenuous for some, but you'll soon forget tired legs as you wander within the almost surreal landscape.

The journey begins on the Navajo Trail, which descends into the canyon at Sunset Point on the rim. The path is wide and well graded, which is typical of most of the trails found in the developed areas of the Park. Be advised that during the busy summer months you will be sharing the upper section with hordes of tourists, who in most cases only go a short distance for picture taking before retreating.

One of the first notable landmarks is Thor's Hammer, a large hoodoo which tapers to an impossibly slender point with a much larger capstone appearing to balance on top. This formation is archetypal of Colorado Plateau geology, and is sometimes seen caricatured in depictions of western scenery.

As the trail drops below the rim, looking back reveals intricate patterns of layered friezes on the cliff face, a result of the differential erosion responsible for much of the Park architecture.

After a moderate grade at first, the trail makes a swift descent along multiple switchbacks. In this narrow side canyon Douglas Fir trees grow tall, hoping to reach a glimpse of the sky.

At the bottom of the switchbacks, a few trail options emerge. One is to turn north and follow the Queens Garden Trail back to the rim. For those short on time another outing includes continuing on the Navajo Loop, a 1.3 round trip that allows for a "taste" of what Bryce is about. For this hike we continue south to the junction with the Peekaboo Loop.

Peekaboo Loop by itself is 3 miles around, with a fair bit of up and down. I recommend hikers travel the loop in counterclockwise fashion, as this trail is used by the horseback concession, and they follow the loop in the opposite direction. It also seemed to me that the grade was less severe on most of the uphill sections when taking the right turn at the junction, but that is probably subjective.

Climbing out of the canyon bottom there are plenty of reasons to stop and catch your breath, with more of the magnificent scenery unfolding before you.

In many ways Bryce Amphitheater can be considered a labyrinth. This is especially evident on the Peekaboo Loop, as the trail winds in and out and up and down through fantastic gardens of stone. Once again the descriptive terms available in human language fall short, unable to convey the wonder and delight invoked by amazing displays of grace and beauty.

At the apex of the loop, a corral is located where horse and mule riders take a break from the trail.

Beyond the corral the path begins a climb out of the narrows, rising to meet a junction with the trail descending from Bryce Point. Hikers with multiple cars or taking the Park Shuttle can choose this as an exit point, making for a shorter trip.

Continuing on, I wander lost in rapture at the sights around me.

Eventually returning to the starting point of the loop, the journey now heads east and north to resume on the Queens Garden trail.

The trail begins a gradual progress in elevation, first winding up the flanks then attaining the summit of a series of ridges. Fantastical formations abound, and little imagination is needed to see familiar faces and objects around you.

These stone monoliths look eerily organic, like some kind of fungus rising from the ground.

I came across this oddity along the trail. In a land of absolutely amazing sights, human beings feel compelled to make a contribution. In this clearing there are hundreds of stone cairns, a pale imitation of the works wrought by nature.

The Queens Garden trail is named for this formation - a rock hoodoo with a profile that resembles Queen Victoria.

E.T., phone home!

Wherever you look there are statuesque features that catch the eye and tease the mind with the sensation that you've seen them somewhere before.

If it were possible to cultivate stone and grow hoodoos, then Queens Garden is aptly named. I know I am approaching the rim, as more frequent encounters with casual tourists become commonplace. Even so, there is still much to enjoy about the remainder of the hike. Gaining elevation allows for more expansive views of the area, adding to the already diverse range of visual attractions.

As the rim and end of the hike approaches near Sunrise Point, there is ample opportunity to gaze into the depths you've just traversed on the trail. From above the dramatically vertical and upthrust terrain looks nearly impossible to negotiate, but by now you know differently.

Bryce certainly contains enough wonders for those who are content to view the majesty of nature from established viewpoints. But the real rewards lie hidden in the jumbled terrain below, and can only be experienced by those willing to take the time and effort to see it.

Unless of course you are a Clark's Nutcracker, or raven, or one of many birds whose wings allow them to glide and soar over the tops of hoodoos, fins, and spires in a way that I can only imagine. Lucky birds.

The Fairyland Loop - Bryce Canyon

2011-09-10T10:58:00.013-07:00

The Colorado Plateau and Utah in particular contain some of the most colorful and varied geology found anywhere in the world. Nowhere is this more evident than Bryce Canyon National Park, where Nature displays a gallery of work that surpasses the sublime and ventures into the fantastical.

With this post I will attempt the nearly impossible - that is to say I'll try to showcase in pictures some of what awaits those willing to explore Bryce Canyon beyond the overlooks. I know full well that I will fall short, for mere words and images can only offer a tantalizing glimpse, like looking through the window of an aircraft flying 30,000 feet above the ground. To really appreciate and understand Bryce Canyon, you have go see it for yourself.

First let's set the stage. Bryce Canyon is not really a canyon at all, but rather a series of amphitheaters carved into the eastern aspect of the Paunsagunt Plateau. Rising over 9000 feet above sea level, the plateau is forested with mixed conifers at the upper elevations, Ponderosa Pine in the transition zones, and a pygmy forest of pinon and juniper at the base nearly 2000 feet down. A cold winter climate with repeated freeze/thaw cycles is the master architect of much of the fascinating geography, unlike true canyons where rivers and streams shape the earth.

The geology on display here exhibits some of the youngest rock seen in the Grand Staircase, of which Bryce Canyon (incised in the Pink Cliffs) is the highest "step". Like many Colorado Plateau features, the Paunsagunt Plateau is the result of massive region-wide uplift about 16 millions years ago. This uplift resulted in vertical fractures which are subject to preferential erosion - basically softer rocks from the pink Claron formation erode easily into pinnacles and towers known as "hoodoos", while harder rocks in the White Cliffs form monoliths or blocks.

The end result is an astonishing wonderland of hoodoos, spires, and fins ranging in color from pink to cream, reddish orange to brown, and a variety of subtle gradations in between. Nearly 2 million people per year visit the Park, mostly in summer. Many never venture from the Rim trail or the established overlooks, content to view the spectacle from above, which in truth is pretty amazing.

But like many of the West's geological wonders, the real magic begins when you place yourself amongst the giants. Standing beneath majestic rock formations that not only tower above but around you provides the necessary humility and perspective to appreciate intricately wrought features, and to better grasp the scale of what is typically seen from above.

There are several trails that drop off the plateau and into the labyrinth below. Most of these feature significant elevation gains/losses, although none are overly steep, The paths are wide and smooth, almost absurdly so, but there is plenty of evidence of sudden and severe erosion from heavy rain, and mudslides and rockfalls are a common occurrence. For this introduction to the secret world of Bryce Canyon, a good place to start is the Fairyland Loop Trail.

At 8 miles round-trip and a net vertical change over 2300 feet, the Fairyland Loop trail is rated as strenuous, although as stated above the grade is generally moderate overall. There is a great deal of up and down as the trail winds through, around, and over the sharply eroded flanks of the plateau. Much of the trail exists under wide open sky, and in high summer temperatures could be a factor. There are widely scattered islands of Ponderosa that provide some relief from the midday sun, but in general expect lots of exposure - sunscreen and a wide brim hat are strongly recommended. This is also a place to avoid during lightning storms, as little to no cover exists, and at many times the hiker is among the tallest objects on the horizon.

As a loop, the Fairyland trail can be done in either direction, or if you have a car shuttle the hike can be shortened to 5.5 miles by eliminating the section that travels the rim. Starting points are located either near the Sunrise Point overlook or the Fairyland Point overlook. In this case, I began the journey near Sunrise Point, as it is in close proximity to North Campground where I spent the night.

The trail heads down and eastward. descending at a shallow angle and winding through a forested section near the top. Soon enough trees give way to open sky and unobscured views of the scenery ahead.

It's hard to exaggerate the delight and wonder I felt with each encounter of a new formation. Every twist and turn in the trail leads to a vista that inspires a sudden stop to marvel and admire what has been created here.

One of the first notable features on display is called China Wall. I'm not sure if the name is a reference to the immense man-made barrier in Asia, or if instead it recalls how the rock resembles the seemingly translucent appearance of fine porcelain in early morning light. Either way this fin is a great example of erosional progression at work. This slender wall of stone will evolve into a line of hoodoos as the hydraulic action of freezing water works its way into joints between the rock, chiseling away the bonds that connect the structure together.

Continuing beyond the Wall, the trail hugs the base of isolated fins, winding in and out between stone curtains. It's a good thing the trail is wide and relatively smooth, as I spent much of the time craning my neck upwards and swiveling my head from side to side in an effort to take in the spectacle all around me.

A quick descent leads to the floor of Campbell Canyon, where the dark greens of pine and manzanita provide a nice contrast to pinks and reds of the ravine. A junction appears after a short course along the wash bottom, with a 1/4 mile trail leading to a view of the next feature, the Tower Bridge.

This name of this landmark is derived from similarities to the iconic London structure, with a high trestle spanning the twin spires of the bridge.

Returning to the main trail, the path begins a long, gradual climb back towards the north. Looking back affords a different perspective on the Tower Bridge.

This section marks a lengthy traverse of a ridgeline dominated by spires, fins, and hoodoos. Excellent views out and across the surrounding country are constantly revealed as the trail weaves and bobs its way through gullies and over ridges.

There are not enough superlatives in the English language to properly describe the impressions I received walking amongst the splendor. There were many moments when I wished I could simply linger indefinitely in the presence of such sublime beauty.

I'm no stranger to the geological marvels found throughout the region, and I often find myself dumbstruck by amazing displays of natural wonder. But the exposition of erosion in form and color found in Bryce is on an altogether higher plane, as the landscape is at once both intimate and overpowering on a scale found nowhere else.

In the not-so-distant age of film photography, hiking this trail would have cost me a small fortune, with hundreds of pictures to develop. Fortunately the advent of digital cameras has allowed anyone to become a prolific shooter, and I am no exception. Here are a sampling of the many images I took while visiting this incredible place.

Walking through Fairyland Canyon in the second half of the hike continues to intensify the appreciation I feel for being able to experience this utterly unique environment. Unfortunately the trail begins to make a gradual ascent, leading inexorably to the rim. Climbing up the perspective once again shifts, and I am no longer a pygmy dwarfed by my surroundings. At first I am eye level with the hoodoos and fins, then finally I am once again able to survey all that unfolds beneath me.

At the rim, I still have 2.5 miles to return to the starting point. Fortunately there is plenty to see, as the trail stays near the edge offering panoramic views out over the amphitheaters.

I arrive at the end of the trail with hot feet and a head full of images that leave me feeling supremely satisfied. Like Everett Ruess, I have been a vagabond for beauty much of my adult life, and I would happily spend the rest of my days lost amid the canyons and mountains of the southwest as he did in his short life. He once wrote: "Here I wander in beauty and perfection". After this day I know just how he felt.

On Foot Part IX - The Skyline Trail to Mt. Linnaeus

2011-07-30T08:08:00.014-07:00

Canyons and plateaus dominate the geographical landscape of the Four Corners region, with relatively level layers of stone forming the canvas on which nature has sculpted amazing works. In this predominantly horizontal region sparsely scattered mountain ranges rise above the horizon, and they play a key part in shaping the unique environment, with lofty heights capturing snow and rain that feed streams and rivers.

One such prominence is located in southeastern Utah, and is called the Abajo Mountains, or Blue Mountains as the locals prefer. The name Abajo translates from Spanish as "low", in general referring to the height in comparison to the much taller Rocky Mountains found to the east. Even so, at 11,360 feet above sea level Abajo Peak provides a commanding view of the surrounding area, including Dark Canyon and the southern expanse of Canyonlands National Park.

Similar to other mountains of the Colorado Plateau province, the Blue Mountains owe their existence to the roiling and churning of molten rock beneath the surface. Igneous intrusions of magma called laccoliths rose from the depths, forcing the overlying stratigraphy to bulge upwards. As the elevation of the dome increased, so too did the erosive force exerted by water, and in places the upper layers have been stripped away entirely, exposing naked granite and diorite. It is here we find our next outing.

The Skyline Trail

The Abajo Mountains are located in the Manti-La Sal National Forest, an area which provides many opportunities for recreation. Hiking is one of those activities, and there are multiple trails to choose from on and around the mountains.

The Skyline Trail is a great selection for a day trip, climbing up the flanks to eventually traverse just below the ridgeline in a generally east/west orientation. At the upper elevations the trail provides excellent views across hundreds of square miles of ruggedly beautiful and wild country.

The Skyline Trail links with other routes along the way, offering opportunities for extended trips, but this hike is focused on reaching the summit of Mt. Linnaeus at just over 10,900 feet. The trailhead is located along a section of F.S. Road 088 called The Causeway. The road is in generally good shape, although like all canyon country roads wet weather can cause problems. It also sees a fair amount of use from ranchers and OHV riders, though solitude is easy enough to find on one of the secondary roads branching off into the forest. It is also closed for much of the winter due to snow, so check locally in Blanding for conditions before heading out.

There is parking near the trail sign, and from there the path wastes no time heading up. At first the south facing slope is heavily vegetated with sugar maple and scrub oak, and the grade is fairly steep. Within about a 1/2 mile the canopy closes in, limiting the view to the immediate surroundings.

Eventually the trail settles into a ravine bisecting the hills, and oak gives way to stately aspen, with smooth white-barked trunks forming a colonnade along the path. Soon a corral appears ahead, confirming the past and present use of the area for cattle grazing.

I've visited the area in summer and fall, and there is something magical about how light filters through the serrated leaves of the aspen. A soft, diffuse glow scatters through the trees, instilling a sense of peace and creating a tranquil environment.

Of course cattle are not the only inhabitants found in the woods. This buck was trying to stay out of sight as he watched over his harem of does foraging plants and grasses nearby.

The incline continues straight ahead before finally making a switchback near the saddle. Turning generally south the grade becomes a bit steeper, and many gnarled and camouflaged tree roots lie in wait across the path, all seeking to trip the unwary hiker.

After a lengthy ascent the trees recede, revealing a long traverse across the ridge line towards the east. Here on the stony shoulders of the mountain low thickets of scrub oak determine the path forward. This is also the first time since beginning the climb that unfettered views of the surroundings appear.

Directly ahead lies the bulk of Mt. Linnaeus, while to the north is Tuerto Canyon. The path is straightforward and easy to follow, with the goal clearly in sight some miles ahead.

Hiking along the spine of the mountain with unobstructed views to the north and south demonstrates how well named the Skyline Trail is. On a clear day the horizon extends for a hundred miles in nearly every direction, and the rugged geography of the region compels the eye to linger over the details.

The ridge turns to the north and the trail briefly plunges back into the woods. The effects of microclimate are displayed in this northwest oriented slope, with fir and spruce trees hugging the cooler wetter aspect.

A short spur connects with a narrow saddle, which then contours into an open bowl below Bob Park Peak.

Hunting season usually occurs during the fall, and on this visit I saw these horsemen traveling cross-country in search of elusive elk.

Staying high up on the southern slope, the narrow trail clings to the side of the mountain, winding in and out of several small gullies. The steep incline of the terrain means frequent winter avalanches, and scattered pockets of aspen and spruce grow in defiance of the odds.

Looking south, the unremarkable summit of Mt. Linnaeus is heavily cloaked in trees. Making the final approach means leaving the open sky behind and enter the shadowy realm of the sub-alpine forest.

There is no physical trail to the top of Mt. Linnaeus, just a suggestion of a route through the forest. At this point the climb is nearly over, with little to gain terms of elevation. Unfortunately there is little to see at the actual summit, since the trees completely obscure the view. There is however a small rocky clearing just before the peak which allows for good views to the east and west.

In this case the journey has certainly been more of a highlight than the destination, but that's alright. Hiking the Skyline Trail is an excellent showcase of the best of what the Colorado Plateau has to offer, with beautiful high elevation mountains and forest towering over deep and colorful canyons and plateaus. Who could ask for anything more?

Somewhere Over The Rainbow Rim

2011-07-21T09:38:00.008-07:00

The Grand Canyon is arguably the world's most well known natural wonder, a place where the landscape exists on such a massive scale that it is nearly impossible to appreciate just how big the place is. People from all over the planet make pilgrimage to this showcase of geology and erosion, standing in awestruck wonder at the majesty and beauty before them.

The vast majority of visitors travel to the well developed South Rim, with a much smaller percentage making their way to the seasonally open and more remote North Rim. These are the easy access points to the Canyon, and as such in summer they are swarmed with tourists armed with point-and-shoot cameras elbowing each other for space at the viewpoints. In these necessarily concentrated locations it's possible with some effort to escape to a more serene setting, but there's still parking congestion and the feeling of being confined to "designated and approved" areas of the Park to deal with.... not my cup of tea, as they say.

Fortunately because of the size there are other Grand Canyons, places where it's not only possible but likely you'll find the solitude and quiet necessary to really absorb the essence of the place. In this post I'll introduce one of those spots, as long as you agree not to tell anyone else.

The Rainbow Rim

The Rainbow Rim could be more properly referred to as the West Rim of the North Kaibab Plateau, although that name is not as lyrical. I'm not going to detail specific instructions on how to get there, but if you have a good map and a willingness to drive on reasonably well maintained Forest Service Roads, you should have no problem finding it.

The Rainbow Rim is located in the Kaibab National Forest, west of Highway 67 which leads to the North Rim of Grand Canyon. Find F.S. road 22, head west until F.S. 206, then south (left). Follow the signs to the viewpoints. There are 5 separate overlooks to choose from. North to south they are Parissawampits, Fence, Locust, North Timp, and Timp Point. I won't reveal which are my personal favorites, so anyone planning to visit should take the time to check them all out as each one offers a slightly different view and setting.

What makes the Rainbow Rim so appealing to me is this section of the rim is part of the Kaibab National Forest, which offers many dispersed camping opportunities. The regulations are much less stringent here, although respect for the land is still paramount. Basically you can camp within a few hundred feet of the rim, meaning more time can actually be spent viewing the Canyon, without a lot of other folks around to disturb the natural quiet.

Another attraction is the Rainbow Rim Trail, which links all of the viewpoints in an 18 mile point-to-point path contouring around the bays and promontories along the canyon edge. The walking is moderately easy, with only a few minor dips and hills to negotiate along the way.

The environments along the trail vary from the drier, more desert adapted pinyon-juniper woodland at the rim to the more heavily vegetated pine-aspen forest where the path retreats from the canyon.

The trail offers the perfect opportunity to experience the environment that exists above the interior of the Canyon. Meandering through the trees on the edge of the greatest gorge on earth is a great way to spend the day.

In summer there is a multitude of wildflowers blanketing the hillsides, as well as dappling the understory of the forest with vibrant colors and heavenly scents designed to attract the necessary pollinators.

Between viewpoints, the mostly shady path undulates gently in and out of minor drainages, and the air is redolent with the warm buttery smell of sun warmed pines. At each of the five fingers which protrude into the canyon, breathtaking views encompass the western horizon.

No matter which vantage point you choose to view the awe inspiring scenery, the Canyon is a place of many moods.

My favorite aspect of the Rainbow Rim is the western facing perspective. This allows for some of the most magnificent sunsets I have ever witnessed.

Everyone should visit the Grand Canyon at some point in their life, even if all you can manage is a trip to the more popular and crowded South Rim. But if you possess an adventurous spirit and the desire to see this incredible place without having to put up with teeming hordes, you should consider an off-road excursion to the Rainbow Rim. It's the Grand Canyon few will ever see.

Monsoon

2011-07-19T12:55:00.009-07:00

Water is life. Anyone who has lived in the world's drier places knows this, and appreciates the gift of moisture. On the Colorado Plateau, water is seldom found in abundance, with only isolated high mountain peaks receiving anything resembling generous amounts.

There is one saving grace in the form of seasonal rains, known locally as the monsoon. This vital delivery of life giving water generally begins in mid-July, often lasting into September. It results from a nearly stationary ridge of high pressure which advects large, moist air masses from Mexico, transporting it northward over the deserts and mountains of the Four Corners region. Rising columns of warm, wet air cool and condense, forming massive anvil-shaped clouds which tower over the landscape.

These thunderstorms feed off the heat of the summer sun, using hot air to form updrafts which push the cloud tops higher and higher. Recirculating air currents lift droplets of water into the upper reaches of the atmosphere, where cold air freezes liquid to ice. Depending on the energy contained within the cloud, this process can repeat over and over again until frozen pellets of hail become too heavy for the winds to suspend any longer.

When the burden of water frozen or liquid becomes too great to contain, the clouds unleash their fury. As steering winds are generally light these storms can remain nearly stationary, allowing a localized area to receive copious amounts of rain and hail in a short period of time. After dispensing its fury the storm may dissipate, only to reform later as additional heat energy is added to the picture.

These storms are impressive, and often produce amazing displays of electrical activity. They are also responsible for terrain altering flash floods, as the generally poor soils of the region cannot absorb the tremendous deluge in such a short time, causing many dry washes and streambeds to flow with a muddy torrent of debris. The power of sediment laden waters rushing through narrow channels cuts and carves thousands of canyons and valleys, creating the incredible landscape we have today.

The monsoon thunderstorm is much more than a spectacular display of natures power. It also signals an end to the dangerous and destructive fire season, a period of heightened anxiety and frequently inconsolable loss. And for a short time it transforms the often barren and austere desert into a place of phenomenal color and beauty. The rains trigger a new explosion of life, with the plant world in a frenzied effort to flower and seed for future generations. The light fresh greens of spring are supplanted with deep, dark emerald leaves and grasses, as vegetation matures with the solstice.

This time is a feast for the senses, with stunning color and form in summer flowers, smells of fresh rain washed air and damp earth, and sounds of birds and insects working to gather food and unwittingly pollinate their hosts. For me, the monsoon season is a welcome visitor who brings gifts beyond compare. My door is always open to such as these.

Monsoon

The show is in town
It's hard to miss

Black veils drape the stage
Behind the scenes torrents of compassion bathe the earth in a wet caress
The curtains part;
The performers appear

Arizona Rose
Penstemon
Columbine
Purple Loco
Aster
Paintbrush
Wandbloom

And a cast of thousands

In the wings, squadrons of butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees
attempt to subdue the riot of color
without success

The audience reveals their appreciation with a sigh
the release of apprehension
and heartfelt gratitude

I am witness
The cycle continues

Navigating Capitol Reef - Fremont River Gorge

2011-07-07T09:35:00.000-07:00

I spend much of my free time exploring remote backcountry areas in an effort to find the solitude required to really appreciate natures handiwork. I seldom camp in campgrounds, but one exception I am glad to make is at Capitol Reef National Park. The reasons are simple - the campground itself is located in a beautiful grove of mature trees with magnificent walls of rock framing the horizon, and it is centrally located to many of the Parks features, including a couple of hiking trails. Those trails provide a necessary escape from the clamor of humanity, allowing one to find peace among the majestic scenery of the Waterpocket Fold.

One of those trails is the Fremont River trail, a moderately easy 2.2 mile round trip path which follows the river for a short distance before climbing nearly 500 feet for great views of the surrounding area.

The Fremont River cleaves across the Reef from west to east, and provides the conduit for Highway 24 through the Park. West of the park the river has cut a deep canyon through Miner's Mountain, and it is along this gorge that the River trail finds its way.

The River trail is found skirting the boundaries of the campground on the west side, and it can take you in another direction as well - heading north/northwest, it leads to the Blacksmith Shop and the Visitor Center, both of which are very interesting and worthwhile destinations. In this case on intersecting the trail, we head (left) south.

As rivers go, the Fremont is typically shallow and not very wide, but that can change in the spring with snowmelt or in late summer with thunderstorms that sometimes drop heavy rain. The water here supports many plants and animals in an otherwise arid environment, and in places the banks are choked with willows and reeds, obscuring the river.

The early settlers chose this place for their home primarily because of the river and the milder climate which allowed for a longer growing season. The favorable conditions here allowed the pioneers to establish orchards all along the river, many of which still exist today. The Park Service maintains these groves as a legacy to pioneer history, and visitors are allowed to pick fruit in season for a modest fee.

The trees add greatly to the aesthetic appeal of the area, especially in spring when blossoms appears in the thousands, delicately scenting the desert air with heavenly fragrance.

The path here is level, easy walking, making this an ideal late afternoon or after dinner stroll. Large Fremont Cottonwoods dot the bank, their serrated leaves rustling gently in the slightest breeze.

The trail stays alongside the river at first, heading generally westward. Lush pastures to the south play host to horses, another nod to the working life of the first families here.

Angling away from the river slightly as it heads for higher ground, the lush riparian community along the water is soon replaced by desert plants like sage and rabbitbrush.

The trail approaches the base of Miners Mountain, where it follows the contours of the muddy brown Moenkopi formation on a moderately steep grade. This section could be exceptionally slick during wet weather, so be advised to avoid it if rain is threatening.

Climbing quickly along the cliff, views emerge upstream of the Fremont River in the canyon below.

The northern horizon appears, revealing sheer Wingate cliffs looming over the valley.

Another shallow drainage enters the river canyon from the south, forcing the trail to make an abrupt turn inwards. This vantage point provides a last look at the river canyon.

Climbing more moderately now, the trail continues south to a ridge overlooking the Waterpocket Fold. At the end of the line you'll find some comfortable rocks on which to relax and take in the panorama. This is an excellent spot for late afternoon/early evening photography.

Though this hike is not difficult, it does require some effort on the climb up for the best views. Best of all, finding the trail is as simple as heading out the door of your RV or tent and walking towards the river. Once there, all you have to do next is decide whether an easy walk or a slightly more strenuous outing is desired. Either way you've made the right choice.

Navigating Capitol Reef - Frying Pan Trail

2011-07-06T09:34:00.000-07:00

There is a southern colloquialism that goes "out of the frying pan and into the fire", which is taken to mean that one goes from a bad situation into a worse one. Even though this does not in any way describe the experience of hiking the Frying Pan trail, it always comes to mind when I think about this gorgeous front country connector trail in Capitol Reef. The only real correlation between the cliche and the hike is that it in fact does go from one to another, but this is a good thing.

Frying Pan is not a destination unto itself, although the scenery is certainly worth a trip to see. Instead, this 3 mile long connector trail penetrates the infrequently visited region between Cohab Canyon and Grand Wash, allowing for an extended backcountry trip to visit Cassidy Arch from the campground or Utah Highway 24. The hike with a car shuttle is nearly six miles from point to point, or just over 8 miles as a there and back trip, and it offers plenty of opportunities for solitude and viewing some beautiful landscapes.

For this post we'll begin the journey from Cassidy Arch. I recommend hiking the trail in this direction because there is some elevation loss and gain of around 1000 feet, including a steep hill that must be tackled if approaching from the north.

The actual junction for the trail is located about 1/2 mile before the arch, and it continues up along the rock shelf until it reaches the ridgeline.

At the summit you can look back towards the south, with views of Miner's Mountain and the mouth of Grand Wash arrayed before you.

The trail is more or less level here, with an escarpment of reddish brown Kayenta rock on the east rising above a pygmy forest of juniper and pinyon pine.

Lone sentinels of rounded stone elevate above the canopy, like squat continental versions of Easter Island moai. This section is really unlike the typical Capitol Reef hiking experience, where most trails wander through wash bottoms or climb steadily along rocky benches with panoramic views. The change is interesting, but it does not last long.

Cresting the ridge reveals the wide open basin of the Frying Pan. Like most topography in canyon country, there is no direct route between point A and B, so the trail follows the shape of the land. In this case it is down and around, contouring to the east as it drops.

Despite the arid environment, well adapted life finds a way to flourish here. Springtime brings many colorful and varied flowers into play, and their presence adds another dimension to the already attractive setting.

Continuing the descent to the east, the views surrounding the hiker encompass the convolutions of the canyon ahead, and the majestic spires and domes of white Navajo sandstone capping the Reef.

The east end of the the Frying Pan comes into view as the trail approaches the shelf which crosses the canyon. The gorge opens up through the Reef, with the opposite end terminating along Highway 24, making it possible for ambitious hikers to undertake a cross-country trek through the wilderness.

For now the trail wends through a maze of boulders strewn about the bottom as it makes way towards the other side and the climb back up.

On the opposite side it is possible to look back to the south and see the "handle" of the Frying Pan, a narrow and shallow cut through the heart of the rock.

Along the way is this oddity - a square shaped block of stone with an almost perfect circle weathered through it. The symmetry makes it appear as though it was fashioned by human hands, but once again give Mother Nature all the credit.

After a much shallower climb than hikers heading in the other direction will encounter the trail reaches a high point forming the divide between the Frying Pan and Cohab Canyon. From here there is a short walk along the ridge with excellent views to the north.

Whimsical rock pillars have weathered out of the overlying formation, providing guideposts and notable landmarks along the way.

Straight ahead stands the cleft of Cohab Canyon, and the high promontory of the Rim Overlook. At the canyon edge, there is a moderate descent to meet the Cohab Canyon trail near the bottom.

At the north trail junction, left leads to the Scenic Drive, campground, and Visitor Center. A right turn takes you to Highway 24 and the trailheads for Hickman Bridge or the Rim Overlook. No matter which way you go, you've made a "connection" with the glorious landscape using the Frying Pan trail.

Little Death Hollow - Big In All The Ways That Count

2011-06-30T09:36:00.015-07:00

I often wonder how place names came to be, especially those including reference to death. In Utah there are many locations bearing names that focus on mortality, including Death Ridge, Death Canyon, and several Death Hollows, one of which I covered here and here.

When I came across yet another variation on morbidly nomenclatured geographical features in the form of Little Death Hollow, I realized how common it was for early settlers facing loss to mark the place of their misfortune. I want to know why someone was motivated to bestow the name, but was unable to discover why this particular location is associated with tragedy.

Despite the dire name, modern humans have no reason to fear Little Death Hollow. The canyon is one of several tributaries of the Escalante River system, along with Deer Creek, Horse Creek, and Wolverine Canyon, all of which can be accessed from the Wolverine Loop Road. Hikers will find many options for exploring wild and scenic slot canyons here, with multi-day backpacking loops or there-and-back outings for single day excursions. In this post I document a hike about 2/3rds of the way into Little Death Hollow, stopping short of the confluence with Horse Creek downstream.

The entrance to the hollow is found 13 miles south on the western leg of the Wolverine Loop. The inconspicuous parking area has but a single sign marking the trail, but the direction is fairly obvious.

Like the hike into Wolverine Canyon, the landscape here is open and flat, with ridgelines to the north and south which slowly converge to form the boundaries of Little Death Hollow. Cattle are grazed on this BLM land, and these bovines wander back and forth through the canyon bottom, keeping a wary eye on me as I pass by.

The trail meanders along, sometimes in the dry wash bed and sometimes on the benches populated with sagebrush and rabbitbrush.

Heading west the canyon narrows, with walls of reddish brown Wingate sandstone resting on scalloped beds of the Chinle formation, a multicolored pastel palette of clay. Scattered detritus from crumbling cliffs litter the slopes, and large chunks of rock rest comfortably among the junipers.

Hikers should be on the lookout for a large block of sandstone just north of the trail. Inscribed near the base are some archaic petroglyphs from earlier inhabitants of the area, as well as some gratuitous contemporary graffiti left by a thoughtless visitor.

As the canyon walls steadily encroach, vegetation becomes more concentrated in the wash. One species found throughout the region is big sagebrush, which in this case is thriving thanks to a wet winter and spring. This aromatic woody shrub is a vital part of the plant community, providing browse for wild game and helping to stabilize the soil.

Soon the trail disappears, replaced by the obvious choice of walking in the streambed. Geologically the formations here are the same as the Wolverine Petrifed Area just to the north, and careful observation reveals weathered chunks of fossilized stone lying about.

Damp patches of sand begin to appear, eventually giving way to surface water. And where water is present, cottonwood trees and other riparian plants provide a welcome green respite from sun and rock.

Water in the desert is life, and plants and animals maximize the resource to their benefit. This also means a few areas where vegetation has occluded the trail, and a narrow passage requires some moderate bushwhacking.

The canyon walls are close enough to reveal the chiseling and sculpting of water. The most dramatic changes in the rock occur suddenly, as a result of flash flooding or the freeze/thaw cycle, but subtle change is also occurring on a scale too gradual to be noticed by human eyes.

Looking up, this lone tree caught my attention. Far from the moist environment of the wash, I thought it odd that a water loving species would be perched on a barren slope. Only after looking more closely did I see the tell-tale dark streak on the rock indicating a spring high above creating a small oasis.

The thin ribbon of water in the streambed periodically disappears, although the presence of trees and plants attest that it is not far from the surface.

Near the mid-point of my hike, I approach the first in a series of narrows. Smooth water shaped walls confine views of the sky to a rectangular strip, and no plants grow in the flood swept channel.

Alternating between sun and shadow as the canyon winds sinuously back and forth, the silence is absolute. No bird calls or rustling leaves disrupt the quiet, and I am at once filled with reverence and awe, the sensation not unlike walking through the hallows of a massive cathedral.

This truly is an enchanted place, and I linger long while marveling at the unique environment. Large cavities carved into the stone offer smooth benches on which to recline in cool shade, and the blue of the sky is made more intense by its scarcity.

The canyon widens and recedes a bit, allowing for the accumulation of sediment and the return of plants. Almost immediately I notice a small arch high above the southern cliff face.

Continuing downstream the canyon walls are low and rounded, and a sliver of moon hovers over the rock. Benches protrude into the channel, offering opportunities to scramble out of the wash for a better vantage point. I know there are no other human beings for miles, and the sense of isolation and solitude is as complete as I've ever felt.

More narrows await my downstream progress, so I continue along the mostly sandy and sometimes rocky canyon bottom.

The entrance to the next slot area looms ahead, and I plunge into shadow from the bright sunlight overhead.

I reach the end of this hike when the canyon opens up once again. The guidebook tells me there's an even narrower slot ahead, which I will return for some day, but time has run out on this adventure and I need to head back.

It is a mystical experience following a path carved through the heart of rock. Words alone cannot describe the feeling of being separate from the rest of the world, or the utter stillness found between stone and sky. In a place like Little Death Hollow, it is easy to understand the intimate and necessary connection between us and nature.

If you ask me, the name has it all wrong - this is a big life affirming place of renewal and fulfillment.

Navigating Capitol Reef - Pioneer Register and The Tanks

2011-06-28T17:01:00.024-07:00

The relatively recent human history of Capitol Reef includes the early anglo emigrants, notably Mormon settlers dispatched to the region by Brigham Young to establish a foothold in this wild and frequently inhospitable land. Their story in the area is told in various ways through National Park Service interpretive programs and displays, and I recommend taking time to learn more about the colorful and interesting people who populate the pioneer era of the Waterpocket Fold.

One place to start is in Capitol Gorge, which was the primary passage through the Reef for those traveling to and from the area. When dry, this sandy wash bottom was wide enough for a wagon or in later years an automobile, although it required frequent clearing after summer flash floods. The "road" was in service from around 1884 until the completion of Utah Highway 24 through the Fremont River Canyon in 1962, and today is used to access trails leading to Golden Throne and the Pioneer Register and Tanks.

This photo courtesy of the National Park Service Historic Photograph Collection.

To get here, follow the Scenic Drive south to the Capitol Gorge turnoff. The graded dirt road travels two miles through the upper end of the canyon, with several twists and turns through sheer walls of sandstone. Like the Grand Wash spur, this detour should be avoided when thunderstorms threaten heavy rain, as the wash bottom can flood without warning.

At the parking area, the trail heads east through the canyon. There is no grade, and the walking is very easy, although there is short climb at the end to reach the Tanks. Total distance for the round-trip hike is only 2.5 miles, making this a good choice for those with limited time.

Towering above the hiker, mostly smooth walls of the Wingate formation enclose the stream bed, at times blocking the sun. Small shrubby plants struggle to maintain a foothold in the channel, persisting in spite of the ever present threat of being swept away. Mineral stains paint the rock in vertical streaks, and the base of cliffs are worn smooth by abrasive sediments carried downstream in periodic muddy torrents.

One great pleasure to be found in canyon hiking is observing the many different forms that water and wind sculpt out of the base rock. The patina of desert varnish on planes and angles adds to the aesthetic appeal, and provides opportunities for the imagination to conjure familiar objects within the natural wrought stone.

There are also a couple of smaller side canyons that intersect the main branch, allowing for the possibility of off-trail exploration.

Another object of note are steel bars driven into the canyon walls at regular intervals. These were placed for the purpose of carrying telephone wire in the early days, allowing for contact with the outside world. Given how isolated the settlement of Fruita was until the highway was built, this hardwired link must have been a great improvement in communication, providing a way to get timely news and information about the wider world outside.

After a short walk, the first inscriptions of early visitors begin to appear on the walls. This "pioneer register" was a way for folks to mark their presence in the world, not entirely unlike what graffiti is today. Here however the names and dates are chiseled into the rock, leaving a lasting legacy. Unfortunately some modern day vandals have also added to the panels, in some cases obscuring and obliterating the genuine historical record.

After investigating the marks of those who came before, the hike continues downstream. The walking is still very pleasant, and the grand scenery provides lots of diversion for the eyes. In this section the canyon slopes away from the wash, with a gentler profile and rounded appearance. Even though the walls are not as sheer, there is still no good escape should a flash flood come roaring through the gorge.

After rounding a bend, a sign appears for the spur leading to the Tanks. Leaving the wash, the trail climbs up a rocky slope to the north on a fairly steep angle.

The ascent is short however, and quickly deposits the hiker on a terrace which provides a good panorama of the surrounding area. Here is the view downstream to the east. The passage through the Gorge continues on, eventually leading through the Fold and into the desert beyond.

These images show the view back up the canyon, and reveals a complex architecture of Navajo sandstone domes and pinnacles looming over the lower gorge.

Walking along the bench allows for glimpses into the narrow drainage where the Tanks are located. Here is a small natural bridge spanning the cleft.

On the north side, an eroding cap of the Carmel formation lends a rose brown tint to the white sandstone.

Hematite, a form of iron oxide, creates the appearance of flowing stone.

The trail reaches the narrow channel where the Tanks are located. The chain of shallow basins in the stone are natural reservoirs, and frequently hold water when all other sources are dry. The name of the Waterpocket Fold is derived from features like these found throughout the area, and their existence allowed people and animals to survive extended dry spells.

The hike into Capitol Gorge really is a trip back in time, allowing the visitor to compare how different life was for the early settlers of the region. I often wonder how well contemporary people would manage if suddenly all of our modern conveniences were taken away, and if we would be able to adapt to that kind of life. I'll probably never know, but it's an interesting question.

On Foot Part VIII - A.B. Young

2011-06-28T17:01:00.016-07:00

Long ago someone noted that "variety is the spice of life", which is a sentiment I can agree with, especially when it comes to having lots of choices for outdoor hiking. And I count myself as truly fortunate, for I live in an area surrounded by public land containing a great deal of diversity in terms of topography, leaving me with no shortage of options.

One of the trails I have at my disposal is called A.B Young (also sometimes referred to as East Pocket Mesa), and it's a great selection for early spring or late fall hiking. Located along U.S. Highway 89A south of Flagstaff in Oak Creek Canyon, this relatively short but steep trail ascends the west side of the canyon above the creek to reach an active fire lookout.

Finding the beginning of the trail can sometimes be a challenge, as it is not signed from the highway. A good starting point is the Bootlegger Day Use Area, which may or may not be open to the public. If the gate is open, you may park here but a Red Rock Pass is required to avoid a citation. If the gates are closed there is just enough room on the east shoulder of the highway across from the picnic area for a couple of vehicles, but be mindful of heavy traffic when getting in and out.

Once you've managed to park your vehicle, walk westward through the picnic area towards the creek bank. A steep descent leads to the clear waters of Oak Creek, which is a beautiful and somewhat rare riparian habitat in the desert. Here trees like sycamore, willow, and ash line a verdant and vibrant zone of life, and year-round water sustains many animals and plants.

Next you must cross the creek, which can be an interesting experience. In spring snowmelt from the Mogollon Rim above can swell the creek significantly, making it impossible to negotiate safely. Even when the flow is less, finding the right combination of boulders to hop across without taking a dunk can take some time as you work your way up or downstream to pick the perfect spot. If you don't mind getting wet, a refreshing dip while wading the creek is also a possibility.

Once you've managed the passage, look for a trail uphill and parallel to the creek and head south for a short distance until you find the actual trail sign - a metal plate with the words "AB Young" cut into the steel. Here begins the initial climb of 1600 feet in just over 1.6 miles.

At first, a mature conifer forest provides welcome shade as the moderately steep path heads up. Soon however the trail emerges into open, shadeless territory populated with manzanita, mountain mahogany, barberry, and other dry climate loving vegetation. The trail is rocky and steep, and there is no respite from the intense sun until the canyon rim above, so avoid this hike in the summer months.

The high desert climate is perfect for cactus plants, and species like prickly pear are frequently spotted along the way. This plant has flowered, and the purplish "pears" growing atop the flat pads are the fruiting stage of life. This succulent, fleshy treat is a favorite food of birds and javelinas, who eat the fruit and later spread the seeds after digestion, allowing the plant to reproduce.

The lack of cover allows for excellent views as the trail climbs higher and higher. The path uses 33 switchbacks to reach the rim, and many hikers will use each one to pause and catch their breath while admiring the scenery.

Closing in on the upper canyon wall, outcroppings of Kaibab limestone begin to appear. They provide a means to gauge the steady uphill progress of the path.

Looking ahead ponderosa pines dominate the skyline, indicating the rim of the canyon. A few more switchbacks will deliver the hiker to the end of the climb. In the meantime, don't forget to stop and admire the local flora, in this case a fruiting manzanita shrub with vivid red berries.

Looking back and down it's easy to see how far the trail has taken you. The highway below is a slender ribbon of traffic, full of cars with people who have no idea a trail even exists above them.

Looking across the canyon reveals that the east side is quite a bit lower than the west side - 700 feet or so. This is the result of faulting that created Oak Creek Canyon.

Finally the crest is reached, and here oak and pine trees create a cool canopy under which to sit while taking in the panorama that extends to the north, east, and south.

After a moments rest, it's time to take up the hike again, this time following the rim of the canyon as it climbs slowly to the south. There are a few good spots to break out of the trees and find a nice rock to sit upon for lunch or just relaxation, although there is still almost 3/4 of a mile to go to reach the lookout.

After contouring along the rim for a bit, the path takes a turn away from the edge towards the west, and into the woods. Even at this relatively high elevation, warm and dry conditions persist, as evidenced by this patch of agave growing amidst the pines.

Climbing a rocky knob, the lookout tower at East Pocket Mesa looms ahead. This active tower at 6700 feet above sea level still serves Coconino National Forest during fire season, and is one of the few remaining all wooden structures in the southwest.

If the lookout is manned, it may be possible to climb the tower via a steep narrow staircase. The platform provides excellent views of the surrounding area, including Wilson Mountain, Munds Mountain, the Verde Valley, and the San Francisco Peaks above Flagstaff.

When I visited last fall, the lookout gave me the 10 cent tour. The interior is somewhat spartan, but the woman on duty made an effort to warm the place up with lots of personal touches. It takes a certain kind of person to thrive in the often solitary environment of a fire lookout, and by all indications this individual was a perfect fit.

After a nice visit, it was time to head back down the trail for the return journey. One really great aspect of this hike is having the cool, soothing waters of Oak Creek waiting on the other end. Just the thought of plunging hot, tired feet into the water is enough to quicken my step and make the hike down seem effortless.

Navigating Capitol Reef - Cohab Canyon

2011-06-22T22:25:00.010-07:00

Cohab Canyon was the first trail I ever hiked in Capitol Reef National Park, primarily because one end of this hidden gem is located right at the entrance to the campground. It is also the trail I've hiked more than any other because it offers access to attractions like Hickman Bridge and Cassidy Arch, making it a convenient connector trail. Additionally the canyon itself is very scenic, with the opportunity to climb to higher vantage points for panoramas of the Fremont River canyon. For all these reasons this is a good choice for the day hiker or those with limited time.

The name comes from the purported use of the canyon by polygamist settlers as a refuge from prosecution by Federal agents in the 1880's. "Cohab" is slang for co-habitation, or the practice of plural marriage. The subject of polygamy and the resulting struggle between the LDS church and the U.S. government makes very interesting reading, and provides useful context for better understanding the history of the area.

The hike through the canyon without visiting the viewpoints is 1.7 miles each way. If both viewpoints are included the distance increases to 2.8 miles. About midway through the canyon is the junction with the Frying Pan Trail, which I will cover in detail at a later date. This path allows a connection with Cassidy Arch to the south, and travels through another beautiful and rugged section of the Park. The eastern end of the trail culminates at Utah Highway 24, almost directly opposite the beginning of the Hickman Bridge and Rim Overlook Trail.

This journey begins on the west side, with the trail climbing swiftly up a series of short, tight switchbacks in the Chinle formation. This badland clay is almost impossible to negotiate when wet, so avoid using this access point when rain is in the forecast. Although the grade is steep, it quickly reveals great views west to the campground and the Fremont River canyon carving through Johnson Mesa.

Thankfully the ascent is relatively short, and the trail reaches a terrace below soaring Wingate sandstone walls. From here it contours along the base in a southern direction, offering sweeping vistas across 180 degrees.

The mouth of Cohab Canyon appears shortly, opening to the east. Many large boulders choke the entrance and the path picks a way down into the dry streambed. Soon towering walls frame the sky, and scattered pinon and juniper trees dot the wash bottom.

One aspect of the geology stands out in this area - tens of thousands of solution cavities arrayed along the gently sculpted cliffs. These seemingly random holes range in size from golf balls to much larger openings, and they present a tremendous amount of variety in their shape and orientation. These miniature "caves" are the result of slightly acidic precipitation eroding weaker layers within the formation. The overall impression is that of many eyes or mouths, or perhaps even cities for imaginary creatures like gnomes or sprites.

There are also a couple of short, narrow side canyons to explore. One of these leads to a shallow alcove with a solitary single leaf ash growing in the center. If the tree survives to maturity this will be a most inviting shelter from the summer sun.

The canyon opens up and the trail follows the broad sandy wash for a time.

At approximately the midway point, slickrock starts to emerge in the streambed while the canyon walls begin to shallow. Some unique features are prominent in this area, including a colorful rock pillar, a small arch, and a collection of black basaltic boulders looking out of place in a smooth hollow.

At one mile in the junction which leads to the viewpoints appears on the north side of the canyon. Here a short climb out of the canyon and onto a terrace encounters another split in the trail with branches to the east and west. Here is the view from the western perspective, overlooking Fruita:

The eastern viewpoint encompasses Highway 24 along the river through Fremont Canyon:

Following the trail eastward after the viewpoint split, it begins a short climb out of the canyon on the south side, primarily due to the increasingly difficult nature of the streambed. Yet another junction appears, this time for the Frying Pan trail, which leads up towards Cassidy Arch and Grand Wash to the south. The Cohab Canyon trail continues on, now skirting the canyon on the southern edge.

Above the canyon now, views of large Navajo sandstone formations to the north are very good. The path meanders along, eventually contouring around a minor drainage while maintaining a gradual drop towards the endpoint at Highway 24.

The descent becomes slightly more pronounced as the trail approaches the highway. From here the hiker can cross the road and continue on to Hickman Bridge, the Rim Overlook, or simply turn around and complete the journey in the opposite direction.

Cohab Canyon trail is a good place to start exploring Capitol Reef, and it offers a vital link allowing for many hiking options. It works especially well for those staying in the campground. Any way you use it, it is sure to provide an enjoyable experience in this ruggedly beautiful landscape.

Wolverine Canyon - How Nature Preserves Wood

2011-06-22T22:23:00.009-07:00

Cruising scenic backroads is definitely a great way to spend the day, but an even better option is to stop and check out places of interest as you go. This includes a recent visit to the Wolverine Loop Road, a spur found off the Burr Trail in southeastern Utah. On this lonely high desert trail there are many opportunities to park the vehicle and hike one of several tributary canyons that converge on the Escalante River.

Among the choices is Wolverine Canyon, located between Horse Canyon to the north and Little Death Hollow to the south. This area is probably better known (and listed on maps) as Wolverine Petrified Area, as it preserves the second largest collection of fossilized wood in North America. While I don't need any excuses to go for a walk in canyon country, I think it's pretty cool to have ancient wood from 225 million years ago as an added attraction.

Beginning at an inconspicuous turnout along the road, the trail at first meanders through open country bounded by colorful buttes of Chinle badlands. The wide sandy stream bed loops back and forth across the shallow valley, leading in its own convoluted way to the mouth of the canyon.

The first mile or so passes with open sky, low hills, and sagebrush filled benches dominating the landscape. Soon however walls of Wingate sandstone begin to rise and converge from north and south. Talus slopes at the base of cliffs are strewn with rubble and detritus from the ceaseless efforts of the elements as they work to recycle the bones of the earth.

As the wash narrows, the trail takes up residence in the wide sandy drainage. Sporadic Fremont Cottonwood trees appear, divulging the presence of subterranean water.

The best examples of petrified wood occur after a mile or so, and careful observation reveals scattered chunks eroding out of the Chinle formation. While it may hard to distinguish smaller fragments, larger pieces clearly display the texture and patterning of bark, and sections that look as though they were sliced out of trunks with a crosscut saw exhibit tell-tale concentric rings. The trees preserved here were believed to have once been 10 feet or more in diameter at the base, and up to 180 feet tall, making them rival redwood trees of today's forests.

After pausing to admire wood turned to stone, the canyon walls downstream invite more exploring. Walking down the wash reveals new panoramas with each twist and turn.

Damp patches of sand appear more and more frequently as underlying formations that resist permeation rise closer to the surface. Soon a thin trickle of water surfaces along with more riparian vegetation.

Burnt orange walls of sandstone rise dramatically on either side, and rocks cleaved in appealing shapes along fracture lines draw the eye in all directions. The silence is absolute, broken only by the rustle of cottonwood leaves or the laughing call of a canyon wren.

Ahead lies a massive alcove suitable for an orchestra hall. For me this large shaded recess makes for a good place to rest, eat lunch, and contemplate the majesty of rock that surrounds me before heading back.

Returning the way I came offers new opportunities to see some formations from a different point of view. This delicate arch is one such example.

In this image I see a fierce hawk casting a relentless gaze upon the canyon below.

This canyon wall with the solution holes creates the impression of a skull emerging from the rock. Spooky.

Had I elected to continue a bit further on from where I turned around, I would have found some decent narrows in the canyon just before the intersection with Horse Canyon. I will come back in the future to extend my journey deeper into Wolverine Canyon, possibly as a loop with Little Death Hollow. But for now my curiosity is satisfied, and another mystery spot on my map has been filled - just one of many places on my to do list.

Navigating Capitol Reef - The Golden Throne

2011-06-16T23:30:00.004-07:00

Beginning with posts covering Hickman Bridge, Cassidy Arch, Chimney Rock, and several other "front country" attractions in Capitol Reef National Park, I've attempted to showcase outstanding natural features that constitute highlights for visitors with a day or more to spend exploring. Some of these like Chimney Rock and Hickman Bridge are easier to access than others, but all require a willingness and ability to tackle terrain that encompass varying degrees of difficulty.

Among the choices often recommended by Park staff for those willing to sweat a little is the Golden Throne, a large dome of Navajo sandstone capped by remnants of the Carmel formation. This overlying layer has stained the normally white/cream colored rock below with a yellowish cast, and the result is a striking monolith that has become a photographic icon. When bathed in lambent golden rays of late afternoon the tower truly does look like a massive temple or monument.

The trailhead is reached by traveling the Scenic Drive to the Capitol Gorge turnoff. As mentioned in a previous post, the Scenic Drive is one option for sightseeing when time is short as it provides at least a glimpse of the rugged topography of the Waterpocket Fold from the comfort of a vehicle.

Leaving the pavement at the turnoff, the road heads east into Capitol Gorge. Like Grand Wash road also found along the Scenic Drive, this route penetrates the Reef via a canyon carved through the monocline. This means two things: First, sheer canyon walls rise steeply above as the road winds a serpentine path through the wash bottom. Second it makes this one of those places where you don't want to be if heavy rain is threatening, as flash flooding can occur without warning.

Capitol Gorge is a very interesting place in and of itself, with a long history of use by early settlers. Before Highway 24 was completed, the canyon served as the main route through the Fold, and it contains a couple of landmarks worth visiting - the Pioneer Register and the Tanks. Visiting these sites are an option for people who want to learn more about the area without a lot of exertion, and I'll present more information about them in the future.

Getting to the Golden Throne is straightforward. The dirt road ends at a parking area, and here hikers can elect either the climb to the Throne, or the walk down canyon to the Register and Tanks. The trail to the Golden Throne is 4 miles round-trip, and immediately begins its 800 feet ascent at the start. Like most Capitol Reef hikes to lofty places, the path uses the contour of a particular formation and follows it as it rises higher and higher to the west.

The trail wends its way in and out of smaller side canyons and drainages as it climbs, frequently changing viewpoints to encompass many different scenes. At one point the hiker may be looking straight up at nearly smooth vertical walls, and then reversing direction to a promontory with sweeping vistas of domes and pinnacles beneath a soaring vault of sky. This kind of variety keeps the eye wandering and the mind entranced.

There is an oft quoted expression that it's the journey that matters more than the destination. I happen to believe that in some cases, both aspects of a trip have meaning. Walking through the splendor of amazing environments sculpted from naked rock presents so many opportunities to stop and examine some geological oddity or to revel in breathtaking landscapes. With so much to appreciate it is easy to forget that the endpoint is the reason for the outing.

Making steady progress the route climbs along the northern edge of Capitol Gorge. At intervals along the way the road appears below, getting smaller and smaller as the trail continues to the west.

As the elevation increases it becomes possible to view the mouth of the canyon, a tiny ribbon of road below, and the bulk of Miner's Mountain ahead - all signs that you're nearly there.

Sure enough, the first good views of the Golden Throne appears high on the right accompanied by a sign telling you the trail has ended.

When I first hiked this trail, I was somewhat disappointed that I could not get any nearer to the base of the Golden Throne. After thinking about however I realized that a vantage point directly below the dome would spoil the perspective, and if I really wanted to get up close and personal, some scrambling and off-route travel would be easy enough. I suppose I'll try it some other time.

From here it is plain to see how the cap of Carmel silt and mudstone has stained the rock in shades of red and yellow ochre. This distinctive coloring is only part of what makes the Golden Throne stand apart from the myriad forms found in abundance here. The graceful turret shaped dome of smooth sandstone is a reminder of natures' skill at shaping stone, and an inspiration to the imagination.

Even though it requires some effort to get here, it won't seem like too much trouble, especially if you take time to immerse yourself in the surroundings. If you are anything like me, it's all too easy to lose track of the hours when all you see around you invokes a sense of awe and wonder. Believe me, it's not a bad way to live a life.

Wolverine Loop Road - A Canyon Hikers Dream

2011-06-16T09:42:00.009-07:00

Many times while touring some scenic backcountry route I'll come across other roads leading elsewhere, and I wonder what lies down that particular path. If the world were fair and just, I would have unlimited time to indulge those whims, but as it is I have to say "I'll come back and check it out". This of course means I'll never run out of places to go, as there are so many roads and trails to choose from and my time is not always my own.

This was certainly the case while driving the Burr Trail, an often overlooked detour through the southern end of Capitol Reef National Park and the far eastern extremity of the Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument. Starting (or ending) on Utah Highway 12 in the hamlet of Boulder, this partially paved route connects at the other end with the Bullfrog - Notom road on the east side of the Waterpocket Fold, and continues north to Highway 24 or south to Hall's Crossing at Lake Powell. The road is passable to passenger cars to the boundary of the National Park, however the dirt portion of the trail is subject to flooding and washouts, so as always know the weather conditions before heading out.

In this particular instance the intriguing spur was the Wolverine Loop, a 28 mile unimproved road that offers access to some amazing canyon hiking experiences. I'll get to that a bit later. Anyone interested in venturing down this lonely road should have a high clearance vehicle and be prepared to deal with the kinds of emergencies that can happen in remote places. Also, like nearly all backcountry roads in canyon country, the Wolverine Loop is no place to be in wet weather.

Having driven past the turnoff to the south on numerous occasions, I finally felt the time was right to go exploring. Of course the irony of this decision is that along the way I encountered even more mysterious dirt roads leading to places as yet unknown to me - my "to do" list just keeps getting longer.....

The Wolverine road is the entry point to several canyons which are part of the larger Escalante River watershed. Cutting through the Circle Cliffs are several watercourses that often take form as dry sandy washes. These seemingly insignificant and intermittent streams are carving their way through the orange-red Wingate sandstone as they drain the area of winter snowmelt and summer rains. Though frequently without surface water, the sudden and turbulent flash flooding from thunderstorms in July and August can affect a most noticeable change on the landscape in a single storm.

As a loop road it doesn't matter which leg you take or whether you travel in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction - both access points lead to the same places. If you are traveling west to east like me it is approximately 18.5 miles from Boulder along the Burr Trail to the intersection with the western leg of the loop road. No matter which way you go, there is a gradual descent ahead with far ranging views of the Circle Cliffs along with isolated mesas against the wide open sky.

If your timing is right the county may have recently graded the road, as was the case when I visited. If not, be prepared for lots of washboards and slow drainage crossings. In one area in particular the road uses a normally dry streambed as the route for over a mile, meaning of course during thunderstorms there is a possibility of flooding.

On this western leg the first item of note is encountered at around 5.5 miles, where the mouth of Horse Canyon opens to the west. There is a sometimes open/passable 4x4 route down the wash that may be drivable in good weather. It is used by ranchers who run cattle throughout the area to monitor their herds. If you don't have a suitable vehicle or if the road is closed, it can also be hiked by itself or as part of a loop with one of the other tributary canyons found further along.

Speaking of other canyons, the next opportunity for exploration comes just a few miles down the road at the turnoff for the Wolverine Petrified Wood Natural Area.

Protecting the second largest assemblage of fossilized (petrified) wood found in North America, the Wolverine Natural Area is located near the mouth of Wolverine Canyon and offers a good look at some interesting specimens with a fairly short, easy hike. In addition there is even better hiking downstream to the confluence with Horse Canyon. I'll cover this unique attraction at some length in a forthcoming blog entry.

Continuing on, the road keeps heading in a south/southeasterly direction, contouring around finger-like ridges extending from the mesa. The base of red Wingate cliffs are mantled in reddish purple Chinle badlands formations, adding even more variety to the broad color palette of nature.

The turnoff for Little Death Hollow appears soon after leaving the Wolverine Natural Area. Although the name is similar to a canyon found north and west of here, it is completely different in character and appearance. This trail leads down yet another steep walled chasm before eventually joining with Horse Canyon to complete the journey to the Escalante River. Like Wolverine and Horse Canyon this is an excellent outing for canyon hikers, especially since there are some great narrows near the far end. The story here is worthy of its own post, which I will publish at a future date.

At the culmination of the southernmost extension of the loop, the road begins a gradual turn to the east. Before swinging around on the return leg, another road appears leading further south.

From here even more choices are offered for those with time and the willingness to explore. Silver Falls Creek and Moody Canyon beckon the desert wanderer with additional remote canyoneering experiences, something I'll have to come back for. (I know, it's on my list).

The remainder of the drive back to the Burr Trail offers plenty of scenery as the road gradually climbs, winding its way through ubiquitous Utah high desert country filled with pinon and juniper. There are no hiking trails located on this eastern leg, but the return journey offers the simple pleasure of solitary landscapes and rugged beauty.

A long time ago I used to say I never met a dirt road I didn't like. Since then I've become wiser and more experienced, and actually encountered more than a few roads I won't ever travel again. But the Wolverine Loop Road is not among those. In fact this is one of those places I'll have to come back to again and again, because like the petals of a flower the longer you look the more the mystery unfolds.

Navigating Capitol Reef - Chimney Rock

2011-06-09T11:08:00.002-07:00

Perhaps the first encounter many visitors will have with the natural features of Capitol Reef National Park is Chimney Rock. This is primarily because it is located immediately adjacent to Highway 24 near the western entrance to the Park, and also because of the distinctive eye catching shape and color. This iconic and much photographed landmark stands like a sentinel overlooking the approach to the Waterpocket Fold, and the pullout offers easy access to stop and get a better look.

While many are content to view the formation from the relatively level base located near the parking area, those with more time and ambition can hike the moderate 3.5 mile loop trail which takes you to a nice vantage point overlooking both Chimney Rock and much of the surrounding area. I highly recommend it as a good introduction to Capitol Reef.

The trail heads north towards a low range of hills comprised of Chinle badlands. This clay formation is easily eroded, and once formed the overlying strata in this area. Here the pastel purples, red, and brown shades form bands of subtle color amongst the deeper red rocks of the Wingate sandstone cliffs beyond.

Soon the path begins a short but quite steep ascent of the mesa to which Chimney Rock is anchored. About two thirds of the way up a trail junction is reached, which is the culmination of the loop. It is often recommended to hike the loop in a counter-clockwise direction for the best views.

Continuing upwards at a more moderate pace, the trail is soon level with the top of Chimney Rock. Here it is easy to see that the reddish-brown Moenkopi sandstone is capped with a slightly harder, more erosion resistant layer called the Shinarump member of the Chinle formation. This protective cap is composed of sandstones and conglomerates, and its presence is what has kept softer rocks below from washing away.

Just before leveling out on the mesa top the last view of Chimney Rock appears, this time from above. There are also good views towards the west framing Thousand Lake Mountain on the north side.

Staying close to the edge of Mummy Cliff the path reveals even more expansive views to the south, with the bulge of Miner's Mountain below lofty Boulder Plateau. Looking west the Henry Mountains rise even higher over the monocline of the Waterpocket Fold.

After a short contour along the mesa top, the trail begins a loose, steep, but short descent to the east.

Directly ahead a massive buttress of Wingate sandstone rests on pillowed slopes of the Chinle formation, which in turn lie over horizontally stacked strata of the Moenkopi layer. The juxtaposition of fractured burnt orange rock faces with multi-hued scalloped skirts and columns of thin reddish-brown sandstone plates is worth studying. As the trail heads in that direction there will be ample opportunity to do just that.

Having more or less leveled off, the trail skirts the edge of low clay hills as it heads northeasterly.

Approaching the mouth of Chimney Rock Canyon, the Wingate sandstone walls begin to dominate the view to the north.

Dropping into a shallow drainage the trail makes its closest approach to the complex and colorful formation seen earlier. This is a great place to let the eye wander over the various shapes and textures, observing how water shapes layers with different compositions and erosional qualities.

At this point the path begins a short contour around the base of the Wingate, eventually revealing the mouth of Chimney Rock Canyon. This steep walled gorge of red sandstone leads hikers and explorers to one of Capitol Reefs' many backcountry routes - Spring Canyon.

Dropping into the wash the path begins its' return journey towards the parking area. The junction for Spring Canyon appears after a short walk, branching off in an easterly direction through the canyon.

From here on it is an easy hike with a gentle grade to regain some of the lost elevation. High on the right are fissured and fractured cliffs, their bases mantled in jumbled blocks of stone. Despite the appearance of solidity and stability, time and weather are slowly but assuredly widening and deepening the canyon.

All too quickly the trail returns to the starting point, and this hike is over. However there are a couple of interesting features near the base of Chimney Rock to see before heading out.

There is no established trail to follow, but walking in any of the braided drainage channels in the general direction of Chimney Rock will get you there. The first oddity of note is a thin layer of gypsum or selenite crystals that form an inorganic crust or mat in many places along the way.

Additionally, careful observation reveals fragments of petrified or fossilized wood found scattered throughout the area.

These curiosities are incidental to what drew my attention in the first place - a very large and apparently precariously balanced boulder atop a slender pillar of sandstone.

Looking for all the world as if it should have toppled already, this large capstone protects the remnants of its foundation for a while longer. As I circumnavigate very carefully around the base, I walk softly lest to minimize any chance of bringing the weighty mass down on my head.

Chimney Rock is interesting, and at the very least offers a good opportunity for scenic photography. But rather than being the main attraction, it is merely one of many worthwhile sights to take in while enjoying a good hike through amazing landscapes. I can say with confidence it's definitely worth the time and effort.