The preliminary install started much like any other. Check Engine Light is on, plug in my incredibly good priced ElmScan 5 Compact USB OBD-II Scan Tool & OBDWiz Engine Diagnostic Software (423001) from Amazon (affiliate link) to pull the code and see what pops up.

p0455 – evap emmisions system – large leak
p0442 – evap emmissions system – small leak

Ok so now what? After some quick searches, it seems to be caused from a cracked Evap line or a bad gas cap. Well, the gas cap was replaced recently so time to get dirty!

Sure enough, some bad vacuum lines. 4 feet of 1/4″ vacuum line is enough to pretty much replace all the lines in the rear and about 2 inches of 5/16″ line for the short connection under the hood.

Repair procedure:

1. Remove the left rear wheel.
2. Remove the wheelhouse splash shield (five plastic rivets P/N 34201631) to gain access
3. Remove the hose at the top rear of the evaporative canister to ease vent valve removal.
4. Remove all clamps and all hoses attached to the vent valve.
5. Install new vent valve. Ensure all hoses, clamps and the vacuum hose to the top of the vent valve are securely attached.
6. Attach the hose at the top rear of the evaporative canister.
7. Install wheelhouse splash shield using five plastic rivets.
8. Install left rear wheel (WJ only).
9. Lower vehicle.

Once installed, start the car, listen for air leaks and plug in the scanner. To reset the ECU, turn the car on without starting it and clear the codes with the scanner. Start your Jeep and let it run for a little while to see if the code gets stored. Prior to fixing the line, it would flash the code in minutes. If you don’t have a scanner, reset the ECU by unhooking the battery during the install. It could take a few drive cycles before you know for sure.

That’s it, hopefully this helps.

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Stock on the left Raybestos on Right – They look remarkably simlar

It has probably been about 40,000 to 50,000 miles since replacing the front control arm bushings and with the clunking coming back and general sloppiness in the front of the car I decided to do them again. This time however when looking into pricing, I realized I can get new set of Raybestos Control Arms from Rock Auto for about $100 shipped. A cheaper set could be had for around $65, but after looking into the parts, I decided to go with the Raybestos brand. I’m glad I did, the build quality is pretty good though admittedly I can’t speak for the cheaper brands.

With that said, other than a stripped bolt which I didn’t cover in the picture set, the install went pretty well. After putting some miles on the new control arms, complete with bushings and ball joints, I’m impressed. The car definitely feels better and I’m looking forward to getting the new tie rods, struts and top hats in.

Parts

Raybestos Control Arms  with bushings and ball joints – 5071593 and 501594

Tools

• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Torque wrech

Enough typing, this is not actually meant to be a how to, but you can see the entire process in the image captions below.

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1. Aveo Control Arm Bushing March 2009
2. 2005 Aveo Suspension and Handling Observations
3. 2009 WRX Coilover Install

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SAAB 900 Intercooler

SAAB 900 intercooler: Can be found on eBay or a pick a part style junkyard.

Tools Needed: Flathead Screwdriver, #10 wrench or socket, Drill, 2 bolts, washers and nuts, small piece of straight metal.

It’s pretty basic that cold air burns better and makes for a better explosion which therefore makes for more power. Cold air also helps protect against detonation. When a turbo compresses the air and forces it into the intake, the air temperature goes up dramatically. The point of an intercooler is to lower those intake temperatures which in turn makes for more power, and decreases the chance of detonation.

While these instructions are specifically are written for a 93 – 2001 Impreza, they could be modified for nearly any car.

To install the intercooler, some adjustments need to be made. The first is to clear room for the intercooler. Here are the steps.

1. Loosen the two bolts holding the ignition control module removing the back one completely.
2. Twist it to the left and refasten the rear to the bolt just to the left. (see picture)
3. Cut off about a 1/4″ off the intercooler end tank to allow clearance between the firewall and the throttle body.
4. The intercooler will sit close to the firewall. You might want to build an “L” shape bracket to mount the intercooler. Take off the windshield wiper cover and drill two holes in the bracket and the sheet metal. Use a bolt with washers and nuts to mount the bracket. The intercooler side does not need mounting hardware, just two 5/16′s holes in the bracket. Make sure to slide this over first before actually drilling through the firewall.
5. The end tank outer diameter is 2.25″ and every turbo setup is a little different, so you’ll have to figure out how to run the intake plumbing and BOV lines on your own.

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I have had LED Footwell lights in the Aveo for a while, but they were a little too green and the light was a little too focused. I prefer more of a glow and while I wasn’t able to find teal, I could find some lights that are capable of teal. As an added benefit, they are also able to pulse to the beat.

The install was pretty straight forward, I simply unplugged the power for the old lights and hooked up the new using the same relay. Since they are attached to the controller, it’s a little more difficult to run the wires.

Without further ado, here are a couple videos followed by some images.

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3. Aveo gets an Always on Power Option July 2009

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Ever wonder what it’s like to switch out a 1998 Forester Suspension for a 2005 WRX Suspension. This is not meant to be a guide, simply a pictorial showing some of the steps involved. Lets get on with it then, here are pictures.line mount in the process

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First step is cutting off the muffler and replacing it with a straight pipe. The noise is MUCH more than what I was hoping for, but the power is definitely increased. As an added bonus the car pulls all the way to about 5200 RPM now, up from about 4700. This means there is still some exhaust restriction or a flow restriction in the heads, intake or intake manifold. The next step will be improving the down pipe, I suspect that is where most, if not all of the flow restriction currently lies. Here are the actual results.

Removed Muffler

Peak Airflow 3.85

Fuel Injector Peak 84

1/4 mile ??

Thats a .2 increase in airflow voltage and 12% more fuel flow. Running fuel injector calculations show about a 20hp gain. Not bad for sawing off a muffler.

The noise was simply way too much to bare so a muffler had to go on the car. I wasn’t about to put that extra restrictive “turbo muffler” back on the car and following the nature of this article a $150 Borla is too much… in fact a $60 Dynomax Ultra muffler is too much. So I made one. To make it, I rolled a piece of 12X18 20gauge mild steel and welded it into a tube. I then traced out 2 16 gauge end caps and drilled out the middle with a 2.5″ hole saw. The part of exhaust which this slipped over was drilled with many small holes and the space in the muffler filled with steel wool. Sounds easy, but welding such thin metal is very time consuming and challenging. The process took about 2 hours start to finish.

The Results: Much quieter, no drones on the freeway and unless I’m on it, the car is very comfortable to drive. High RPM’s have a resonating sound, but that’s probably because there’s no resonator on the car. Just a 2.5″ turbo back with the built muffler. Flow should not be decreased, but I will check this to make sure and post up when I get the results. (Sorry, but I never tested at this stage)

Built Muffler

Peak Airflow ??

Fuel Injector Peak ??

1/4 mile ??

Down Pipe: Notice though the smooth radius inside the wastegate portion and the contoured edges. If you are already running my downpipe you can contour the edges going into the down pipe for much increased flow. Similar to how a bell mouth opening will increase flow by about 14%. You could also add the additional ‘divorced’ 1.5″ section. Another step to increase the airflow is to move the o2 sensor further down the pipe. I’m hoping this will keep the turbulence to a minimum.

High Flow Down Pipe

Peak Airflow 4.00

Fuel Injector Peak 101

1/4 mile 15.686 @ 86mph

Brakes: I was able to pick up a set of used low mile 2001 Impreza RS pads, calipers and rotors from NASIOC for $60 shipped. I also bled out all the old fluid and replaced it with DOT 4 Valvoline synthetic. This mod should have been done LONG ago. The pedal feel is still kinda squishy, but the braking has improved considerably. During the bed in process, I was able to lock the front wheels at 70mph… this is with a firm, but not HARD pressure on the brakes. The old brakes couldn’t lock up over 30.

Front Suspension: Since I had to replace the front wheel bearing and the steering rack needed a rebuild anyway, I decided it was a good time to do the front struts, top hats, and steering rack bushings. The front struts were $150 with delivery from Tire Rack. The top hats are used RS 30,000 mile pieces I got in exchange for installing a new suspension on an RS. The steering rack rebuild was $160 and the rack bushings were $30. What can I say, the front is much tighter now, but because so much has changed, I can’t really comment on the rack bushings.

Porting: I had the exhaust manifold off anyway and a few days to wait for the steering rack. That said, I head out with drill and grinding stones in hand to port the exhaust ports and exhaust manifold. I’ll copy what I said in a post to save myself some typing.

While I had the exhaust manifold off and a day at home, I decided I might try a little porting on the exhaust ports and exhaust manifold. I had previously done some minor porting on the exhaust manifold to get rid of some of the intrusion going in. Well, I finished it off on Sunday grinding off the entire lip making for a smooth transition, not to mention MUCH less turbulence going into the exhaust manifold.

The Heads: The heads stayed on the car so I was only able to clean up the ports a few inches up. I ground down the lip right at the exit and some casting marks paying special attention try and not make the ports any larger. Realize, I want to keep the original flow characteristics, just clean them up a little. After hitting it with a grinding stone, I tried a less course smaller stone which smoothed it out some, but no where near a “mirror like finish.” Realizing the smoother the finish, the less likely carbon deposits will stick, I grabbed some WD40 and 2000 grit sand paper. 400 grit probably would have been better, but it’s all I had. With that I smoothed out the ports by hand.

All in all, both the exhaust manifold and heads took about 2.5hours.

Results:

Hot DAMN!!! My goal was (is) to get a good smooth pull all the way up to the 6200 RPM redline and an extra 4mph in the quarter so I hit the lights at 90mph. Well, I can’t say anything about the trap speed, but the power band is MUCH improved. I got the smooth pull all the way up to 6200RPM whereas it dropped off at about 5600 before the porting. The surprise is the better throttle response and low end power. I found myself cruzing in 4th instead of 3rd. I have always had good low end power from about 2800 rpm or so, but now it’s from about 2400 RPM. Even better is I can now boost 5psi if I roll on throttle at only 2000 RPM. By 2600 I have the full 8.5psi of boost.

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This article was written in 2004 I believe.

So at this point the Impreza is lowered with .75 lowering Eibachs, turbo‘d with a TD04L, Engine management is taken care of with a Greddy E-Manage, 17″ wheels, MP3 player, etc… What else could I want? Well, more power, better handling and better braking. Now that the car has 215,000 miles, the shocks are due for replacement, and the bushings are becoming more worn. In addition, with the additional power on tap the stock brakes are way inadequate.

Here is the plan.

More power: With the E-Manage, I now have pretty good control over the fuel and timing of the car. I also have a way to measure the performance of the car through the airflow voltage at the Airflow Meter. I also have the recent 1/4 mile time at Las Vegas Motor Speedway. 3 low cost steps will be taken to increase the power. (make that 4)

Step 1: Removal of the muffler. I’m hoping it won’t be too loud, but I won’t know until I try. The SRT-4 has no muffler from the factory even. The current muffler on the car is a Dynomax Super Turbo which may be quiet but the reverse flow design makes for some rather poor flow.

Step 2: Upgrading the down pipe. Currently the down pipe is a 2.5″ mandrel bent piece which flows well with the exception of the wastegate. The flapper door opens and the turbulence caused can not be good for flow. That being said I will upgrade the down pipe with a separate port for the wastegate and an extension separating the main turbine exit which will basically simulate an external wastegate thus improving flow and reducing turbulence. This should also improve boost response.

Step 3: More tuning. With each upgrade of the exhaust, tuning will need to be done to keep air/fuel ratios in check. I only have a narrow band o2 and seat of pants feel to tune the air fuel ratios. Timing will also be adjusted. I currently have a very conservative timing map to keep detonation in check. I will be building a low cost knock detector to help with timing adjustments.

Brakes: With the additional power and my increasingly harder driving style, the stock brakes fade entirely too quickly. Some WRX or RS brakes will be going on soon.

Shocks: At $60 each plus shipping, the cost does add up. I will be replacing the rears first and later the fronts. This should help with some of the bouncing.

Bushings: It would be nice to replace all the bushings with polyurethane, but that’s not what this article is about. The steering rack bushings run about $30. From the reviews, they should help improve handling considerably as well as fix a knocking sound coming from the front of the car.

Baseline:

MAF Reading Peak 3.66

Fuel Injector Peak 72

1/4 Mile (100 degrees F) 16.3 @ 81

I’m a little disappointed in the 1/4 mile time, but in the cars defense, it was over 100 degrees outside and I only got a few runs before running out of gas. It should not be too hard to improve these performance numbers, how much though will be an interesting test.

That’s it. Stay tuned for updates as they come.

Part 2: let the MODS begin..coming soon

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1) Tighten all bolts to 29 N-m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft-lbs) in alphabetical sequence.
2) Then tighten all bolts to 69 N.m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft-lbs) in alphabetical sequence.
3) Back off all bolts by 180″ first; back them off by 180″ again.
4) Tighten the bolts (a) and (b) to 34 N-m (3.5kgf-m, 25 ft-lb).
5) Tighten the bolts (c), (d), (e) and (f) to 15 N.m (1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft-lb).
6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90″ in alphabetical sequence.
CAUTION: Do not tighten the bolts more than 90″.
7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90″ in alphabetical sequence.
CAUTION: Ensure the total “re-tightening angle” [in the former two steps], do not exceed 180″.

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This weekends install started as Hella Horns, Perrin Endlinks, and Perrin sway bars. Unfortunately, the sway bars have been waiting for about a year so really its unknown whether they came with bushings or perhaps they were lost somewhere in time. At any rate, on to what we can install.

Cobb Catted downpipe

Going with a catted downpipe over the cheaper more popular catless options, allows you to actually not spit fuel out the exhaust and pass emissions, usually without cheating. Installing is not too difficult as long as you can get under the car. I’ll lay out the tools required and steps.

Tools:

• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm box wrench
• 12 mm box wrench
• needle nose pliers
• 10mm socket
• 22mm box wrench or o2 sensor remover

Process:

1. Lift the front of the car on stands or ramps
2. Remove turbo heat shield
3. Remove turbo heat shield bracket
4. Place bolts in bracket in a way that its easy to know the orientation when reinstalling
5. Remove remaining downpipe nuts.
6. Remove o2 Sensor
7. Remove downpipe bracket bolts from the transmission and the other one, you’ll see it.
8. Remove downpipe either as one piece or two
9. Reinstall the new downpipe
10. Install the o2 sensor.
11. Cut the heat shield to allow the downpipe or install an aftermarket heat shield.
12. Wipe down the grease before starting up the car otherwise you might get blue finger prints when everything gets up to temperature.

Perrin Endlinks

Hella Horns

The hardest part about installing the horns is wiring up the relay. The diagram is a little difficult to interpret so I’ll mention it here.

30 – fused power (to battery)
87 – horns (Y slip wire to each horn)
85 – Ground (bare metal)
86 – stock horn wire (self explanatory)

Related posts:

1. Gutting a Stock WRX UpPipe and Turbo Back Install
2. Epic Springs and a Downpipe Install on a 2009 WRX Hatch
3. WRX GT Spec Headers April 2008

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A month prior to this, we removed a turbo from a Mazdaspeed 3 so it could be sent in for a rebuild. Well the turbo came back a few weeks later all cleaned up, freshened up and a Corksport downpipe as well. The turbo looks and feels new with no shaft play and some decent looking ports. The downpipe by Corksport looks well made, is much lighter than stock, fit’s perfect and appears to be a high quality piece. I can easily recommend the Corksport downpipe.

The install started before I even arrived by setting the hood out in the grass and getting the front end of the MS3 off the ground for easy access to the bottom part of the car. With my trusty wrench and 6 point deep 14mm socket, I started in on the many exhaust manifold bolts. Torqued them down and from that point we were able to then mount the turbo. The turbo goes up through the exhaust tunnel up to the exhaust manifold. We started out by me handing the turbo up to Phil, which we decided was no longer a good idea once he snapped a plastic fuel line. Other than that one snag the turbo bolted up easier than expected. Once installed, we simply slid on the intake, connected the water and oil lines and were ready to progress.

From here we slid the downpipe up and struggled with the bolts a little as they are difficult but not impossible to get to. The o2 sensor however was not so nice to us. The threads were damaged from simply removing it from the stock downpipe and would not go in without first being repaired. Unfortunately without a die big enough to fix the threads, we were unable to reinstall the o2 and also the manifold heat shield which first require the o2 be connected.

Under the car, we could bolt up the rear section of the CAT pipe, but the front section would not hook up to the Corksport Downpipe with the supplied bolts as the bolts are too long.

With that, we called it a night. The car is less than 30 minutes from embarrassing much more expensive cars, but without some new bolts, replacement fuel line piece, and repairing the o2 it will have to wait.

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1. Gutting a Stock WRX UpPipe and Turbo Back Install
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Subaru power steering pumps always seem to leak after a few years. On my original Impreza I just let it leak until it got so bad I replaced the pump. If I knew I could fix it for $20, I probably would not have picked up that used replacement.

The power steering pump kit is from www.pskits.com. The service was great as was the price. I did run into one snag though as one of the gaskets does not seem to fit. I’ll contact them regarding this or possibly just let it be if it doesn’t leak.

This is my first attempt at rebuilding power steering pump, follow along with the pictures as I describe the process.

Tools Required:

• 12mm socket
• 3″ socket extension
• Socket Wrench
• Vice
• 17mm Wrench or Socket
• Screwdriver or something to lock the pulley as you loosen the nut.
• Circlip Remover

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What started out as a long day which would include a new clutch, finishing up a gutted stock up pipe and installing a turbo back exhaust turned into a long day, but no clutch install.

Gutting a stock Up Pipe:

Gutting a stock WRX Up Pipe is not easy, but should not be this hard. I have done a couple now and this was more difficult than the first. I no longer have a long air hammer attachment which is able to go all the way through the Catted part so I cut one that’s close and lengthened it by adding some 1/2” angle arm. Well, the cat is stronger than the steel so it took a few different “versions” of the extension, some beating on it with some large screwdrivers and a few hours of work to get this done. Luckily Darin was there to help tag team this as it took a fair amount of time. The end result is a clear path in the up pipe which fits as good as stock and retains the heat properties of the stock piece. As such, it’s unlikely to leak or have any other issues. One other thing to note is I like to weld the egt port shut as it would just through a CEL anyway. A 2.2K OHM resister goes into the plug to resolve the CEL.

Installing the UpPipe and Turbo Back:

It wouldn’t be an o2 bugeye if the Up pipe came right out. Removing the Turbo Back was fairly straight forward, especially since it was actually removed by a previous owner and missing some bolts and a tricky heat shield. The Up Pipe to turbo bolts removed easy enough, the lower up pipe bolts were fine, front o2 sensor, passenger side exhaust manifold was simple, the crossover started to be easy… Then it stripped. Whats worse, it stripped in a way that the nut would not come off but just spin. Out came the cutoff wheel. As I have said before PB Blaster is great and will keep this from happening most of the time, but not 100% of the time.

With the crossover pipe finally removed, I could then pull the passenger side exhaust manifold. After some wiggling, the up pipe just did not have the space to come out. Removing the intercooler, unbolting the pitch mount, unbolting the engine mounts from the crossmember, then place a piece of wood and jack on the pan and jack up the engine about an inch. The extra space allowed easy removal of the up pipe. Unfortunately it didn’t help all the grease that was spread all over the car from the torn CV boot. I managed to clean the car up pretty well with my clothing, arms and hair….

Installed the “New” Up Pipe, bolted everything back up, the Engine, the up pipe, the TBE, replaced the trimmed heat shields and fired it up. The car now has a proper WRX rumble and you can easily hear the turbo spool up.

Related posts:

1. Epic Springs and a Downpipe Install on a 2009 WRX Hatch
2. MS3 MazdaSpeed 3 Turbo Upgrade
3. 1993 1.8 Liter Impreza Turbo FAQ

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In Part 1 of this 2 part series we removed the bumper cover, the crash bar and the beam. Now it’s time to re-center the tailgate and put everything back together.

It’s been about a month since the actual install so I’ll let the pictures and descriptions do the talking.

That pretty well covers it. The bumper cover has still yet to be replaced. It hasn’t even been washed since then so as long as it stays dirty, you can hardly tell it’s damaged.

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This article actually got started a few weeks prior when my wife was rear ended at a red light. The damage is not too bad, but since the car is new, we would like to replace all the parts to get it back to “like new” condition.

With that said, let’s get to it!

Tools for the job:

• long flathead screwdriver
• 12mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Philips screwdriver
• Panel Popper

I started by lifting the car and once again assessing the damage.

There are two philips screws on each side of the rear bumper to remove.

Normally, there would be two bolts to remove below the tailgate, but the bumper skin was broke therefore these could stay until I get a replacement bumper cover. That being said the bumper just kind of pulls straight out. You can use a flathead screwdriver to help with the clips, some you will get to from laying under the car looking up.

Now we can see the damage to the ABS crash absorber and check for other damage.

Now for the unboxing of the new Bumper beam and crash absorber from www.hondapartsnow.com. I like the fancy padded wood.

Now I remove the absorber even though it’s not necessary. I didn’t realize this otherwise I would have left it attached to the bumper itself. I also remove the bumper, though it could have been repaired by bending the tabs and welding it back together.

This post is getting a little long, I’m going to have to finish up in part 2. Thanks for reading.

Click Here for Part 2.

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A four hour drive from Vegas to Los Angeles followed by a drive back to Vegas less than ten hours later. Life can be rush rush as we battle endless todo lists along with other life “tasks”. I have driven through here more than a few times, never stopping to simply enjoy and take it in. Today is different. Today I stop. Today, I don’t have my camera so I did what I could with my phone. Enjoy the shots, I know I enjoyed taking them.

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

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Pretty much any car designed for the masses is going to be somewhat neutral in many aspects. Suspension is a great example of this as the average person doesn’t want a firm ride or the worry of breaking the front bumper cover off when getting just a little to snug to a curb. Automotive enthusiasts however, are a slightly different breed. We notice that split second gab between turning the wheel and the car following along. We are ok with a little more noise, we want the car to be firm and responsive.

Springs vs Coilovers – The debate will continue. Personally I say springs. You can get a nice firm responsive whip without being overly jaring. Coilovers really limit the amount of suspension travel you have. For example, you might need to jack up your car 4 inches before the tire leaves the ground. With coilovers, it’s only going to be about an inch. The nice thing about coilovers such as installed here, are the advantages of setting ride height, spring rate and shock firmness.

This install is about coilovers. The install is pretty much the same as a regular spring install with a few key differences.

- Since we didn’t reuse the stock struts or top hats, we kept the stock assembly together simply swapping out the assembly with the new parts.

- Adjustments. Once you install the coilovers, the next step is to lower the car and check the ride height. Once this is done, you make adjustments, lower the car and check the ride height again. Do this until you are satisfied. Once the ride height is set, triple check everything is torqued down and you are now ready to set you spring and shock rate. I set the springs as soft as they would go which ended up being a little too soft. The lack of pressure on the spring caused a slight noise which could be adjusted out by putting more tension on the springs and therefore making them a little more stiff. For the shocks, I recommended he try it all the way hard first and drive it around a few days then all the way soft. This will familiarize him with the difference between a shock rate too hard or too soft. Either way, the result is a bouncy ride. The shocks will need to be adjusted over time so the ride is firm and well matched to the springs.

That’s it, check below for pictures of the install and feel free to comment if you have any comments or questions.

Related posts:

1. Epic Springs and a Downpipe Install on a 2009 WRX Hatch
2. Gutting a Stock WRX UpPipe and Turbo Back Install
3. Impreza RS Pulley Install – February 2008

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In a nutshell – not much. I don’t think this is all too fair though as I consciously drive in a way which keeps the inside of my engine clean. Here is a list of steps I have developed over the years to keep my engine running as clean as possible.

- Change oil every 5000-6000 miles (mostly highway)

- Redline (shift just below RPM cutoff) at least a few times a week. *This is great for the engine; however, make sure the engine is fully warmed up, not just the water, but the oil as well to avoid a blown head gasket or excessive engine wear.

- I run name brand gas exclusively. If there is a filler truck at the station, I’ll not fill up that day.

- Lucas fuel injector cleaner every 40k or so.

- Change the spark plugs every 40k. Check them every 10k or so.

- Let it cool a few minutes to turn it off to keep the oil from coking with hot spots. Coking is common in turbos when the turbo is glowing hot, the oil gets shut off and the oil remains on a glowing red hot surface. This will steam the oil causing a thick film to build inside the turbo. The Aveo doesn’t have a turbo; however, driving gently a minute or more before shutting it down will help avoid hot spots in the engine where the oil can burn.

These steps keep the internals clean and running smooth. Redlining frequently also will get the valves glowing red hot, which combined with the added intake and exhaust flow will help force out build up on the valves and inside the exhaust manifold.

That being said, most people don’t do this. Most people wouldn’t even think about all of this and quite frankly that’s ok. This is good to know when a car starts losing some power over time, buying a used car, perhaps you are fixing a car for a friend or family member. This might also help clear a check engine light and even get a non passing car through an emissions check.

On to the Seafoam Process.

A can of Seafoam will set you back about $10 at a local auto parts store. According to the directions a third would be dumped into the gas tank, a third in the oil, and the remaining third into the intake VIA a vacuum line as close to the throttle body as possible.

Get the car to temperature, once it’s fully warmed up start sucking the seafoam into the intake line. You will also need the car to be at around 2000 RPM for this part, otherwise it will stall out.

While sucking the Seafoam there should be a lot of smoke coming out of the tail pipe. This is why you should do this at night in a well ventilated and preferably windy location. I didn’t have hardly any smoke so I guess was starting out with a rather clean engine.

Once this part is done, go for a spirited drive. By spirited I mean redline it in second and third if possible. Run it hard for a few minutes to force out any engine buildup.

Once returned home if you poured a third of the can into your oil, you will need to change it now. It’s not a good idea to leave a cleaning agent in for any length of time.

That’s it. You are done. If you want to try out Seafoam, check it out.

Related posts:

1. Aveo Motor Mount – Round 1 – Transmission Mount
2. Aveo Motor Mount Filling Take 2
3. Building an Aveo Brace Brace – Eliminating the Torque.

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Another spring install on a WRX along with a Downpipe install. This time its a 2009 Impreza WRX Hatchback. Not only do these Epic Lowering Springs give the car a much nicer stance, it’s also a great suspension modification to improve the handling of the WRX without sacrificing ride quality.

Scroll through and click on the images for descriptions of the install.

Related posts:

1. 2009 WRX Coilover Install
2. Impreza RS Pulley Install – February 2008
3. Gutting a Stock WRX UpPipe and Turbo Back Install

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Installing a pulley on an Subaru with an EJ engine such as the Impreza or Legacy is pretty straight forward. Basically just lock the engine either by putting the car in gear or using something such as my pulley removal tool to lock the engine as you loosen the crank pulley. Once the bolt is loose, work the pulley off and replace with your new lightweight pulley.

Related posts:

1. Epic Springs and a Downpipe Install on a 2009 WRX Hatch
2. Emanage Install on an Impreza Part 2
3. WRX GT Spec Headers April 2008

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Months into this paint job and I am now fully Convinced.

Hours have been spent straightening, sanding, cleaning, painting, cleaning, painting, sanding and so it goes. The first coat was a little thick and had some massive orange peel, as I progress I get better and faster. I still have two coats of black but I got anxious. I had to see the finish product. I’m glad I I’d too and for two reasons. One, I have a better understanding about the wet sanding. Two, I can see myself in that paint! After some wet sanding with 1000 grit on a block I followed up with 2000 in my hand. A few spots of primer are showing up which can be expected as I’m still a few coats away from being done.

I wrote up a little more, talking about the highs and lows of this evening, me battling the shine but I lost it. Turns out I should hit save prior to done and since I’m making this post from my phone I really don’t want to go back into it. Important thing is the shine.

Now for some pictures. I took a few pictures of the hood, as you can see I only actually buffed a small section. I also have some pictures of the front fenders after two coats of paint. The mix is two parts Rustoleum hunter green to one part Lowes royal blue enamel.

Related posts:

1. Project Resurrection Interior Cleaning – Part 1
2. Project Resurrection Interior Cleaning Part 2
3. 1993 Subaru Impreza Power Steering Pump Rebuild

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Click play to watch Tanner Foust drift the well known Mulholland Drive.

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1. First Video Collage – Saabaru Clutch Install

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1. Set the Wayback to 2002 – its SEMA
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This is the original article from when I built up my original kit in 1999.

Disclaimer: This article is written for information purposes only. In no way do I suggest doing this. If you do… this information should be interpreted as a tool or learning device, not a “how to.” I take no responsibility for what you do on your time. That being said, this information is correct to the best of my knowledge.

Introduction:

After seeing turbo cars pop up in magazines and after owning a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI Turbo, I decided to look into turbo charging the Impreza even more. Once Minnam Racing came out with a turbo kit for the Impreza, I realized that it is possible to feasibly turbocharge an Impreza. At this time the thought of 4 spinning tires, neck-break acceleration, and the quarter mile times of a Porche 911 turbo were mostly just fantasy. Soon after however, something pushed me over the edge. The March 1999 turbo magazine. On page 130 lies Byron’s now 500+ horsepower daily driver Impreza.

With an “if they can do it, we can do it” attitude a friend and I started looking into turbos. The first project was a 1990 Toyota Tercel. A Garret T3 was sourced from a retired Turbo Thunderbird, and soon mounted up. It worked, though maybe a little too well. Tercel’s don’t seem to like 15 pounds of boost and that was that.

Research:

If you are reading this and considering actually building your own kit, I recommend you do some research on your own. Most of my knowledge was gained from www.turboneticsinc.com, www.turbonetics.com, JC Sports (which is now out of business), Turbo magazine, and doing lots of Internet searches for turbo cars. Research at the time was a bit sketchy given the amount of time aftermarket turbo Impreza’s roamed the streets. The small consensus was 5 pounds without an intercooler or any other electronics and 7 pounds with an intercooler and fuel and timing management. According to JC Sports, their front wheel drive 1.8L Impreza went from 83hp at the wheels to 142hp with only 5 pounds of boost, no electronics and no intercooler.

Parts:

This made the page too large, so check out the 93 Impreza “Simba” Initial Turbo Parts page for more info on the parts used.

Turbo:

The first place I looked was www.turboneticsinc.com to look at the different turbo’s and compressor maps. The compressor maps are somewhat cryptic to read, but they basically let you know what size turbo components you need for different engine sizes. After getting hyped up about a Turbonetics T03/T04 hybrid with a ceramic ball bearing center, I went over to www.turbonetics.com to check on price, about $1300 for the turbo and $220 for the wastegate. Too much for me… time for a new plan. My friend with the turbo Tercel was able to get a T3 off a Thunderbird for $45. I however couldn’t find one. What I did find were numerous Subaru turbos. Total search time lasted about 3 weeks. Once I found one in good shape, I was able to pull the turbo with wastegate, up pipe, and downpipe in about 45 minutes. Would have been quicker, but the junkyard wouldn’t let me take the pre cat, so I had to cut it off with a dull hacksaw. One modification was needed for the turbo to make it work. It comes with a 1½ outer diameter outlet flange which is too small. Good luck finding a 1½” to 2” reducer. I had the outlet part of the turbo machined to a 2” outer diameter so I could actually get a silicone hump hose on it, problem solved and they also bored out the actual port for me as well. (thanks S&H Racing in Beaverton Oregon) They have done a lot of machine work for my friends and I, always great work, good turnaround time and they are nice too which is important to me, especially with my strange requests. One place actually said “no one modifies Subarus” and laughed at me. This was for some custom suspension work and new bushings, needless to say, I never returned.

Oil Feed/Return:

This should have been easy. I knew how much steel braided line I needed to get from the turbo to the oil pressure sending unit. I also knew I’d only need about two feet to return to the pan. To the pan was easy, I had a fitting welded to the pan and just ran a two foot #12 11/16” steel braided line. I used silicone to help seal the top and A/N fittings to hold it on to the Oil Pan. For the Feed, I used #4 7/32” 3’ steel braided line and the necessary fittings for the turbo and oil pressure sending unit. The unit pictured below with the A/N fittings on it is actually from ISR. For the feed, go through ISR. The line is about $40 and already has the fittings mounted to it. It also takes the oil from right below the throttle body as opposed to the oil pressure sending unit.

For the oil return, you should be able to get a fitting that returns the oil directly into the head on a 2.5, but not for the 1.8L. Just use an A/N fitting at the head and slip the other end over the turbo or an A/N fitting there depending on preference.

2¼ high flow cat and muffler:

I used a Dynomax muffler (28-2371) and a 2¼ cat that is actually for a Chrysler turbo, but I lost that receipt so I really don’t know the part number for the catalytic converter. All of my exhaust work was done locally at a muffler shop. It really helps to know someone here, otherwise they might not be too willing to work with you. Another tip is to go to a shop that does a lot of custom work. The shop I had it done at is really into building muscle cars for drag racing, so they appreciate what I am doing. I would leave the name and shop, but it’s under new management now.

Here’s a picture of the old up and down pipe that came off the car. Prime example of how NOT to do it, notice the crush bends and overly bad design.

UPDATE: That exhaust is off. I made a custom 2″ up pipe, 2.5″ down pipe and all the way back with a 2.5″ exhaust.

Wastegate:

A few years ago, I drove a turbo wagon and seem to remember it having about 5 to 7 pounds of boost. Armed with this information, I left the stock wastegate on the turbo. The very first drive I watched the needle shoot up to 10 pounds. WOW, not much lag, but too much boost. Get a Turbonetics or Tial 3-5 pound wastegate. Other turbo owners are complaining about the Deltagate by Turbonetics, saying they are getting boost spikes due to a “sticky” spring. That said, the TIAL might be a better option. Even if you want more boost, because you can always turn it up, but you can not turn it down. More information is available in the FAQ section under wastegate. I was able to get a good deal on a Deltagate, so this is what’s going into my install.

UPDATE: The current setup uses no external wastegate. With the TD04L on my 2.2/1.8 hybrid, I peak at 7psi.

Intake:

This was the most expensive part of my whole setup. I have a Weapon-R intake that goes to the turbo. From there is a 2” hump hose to the 2” exhaust tubing, to a 45’ silicone elbow, to more exhaust tubing, to a 90’ silicone connector, to more exhaust tubing, to a silicone 2” to 2.75” transition into the throttle body. The silicone connectors were purchased from www.turbonetics.com and cost about $210 with shipping. Actually it cost me $295 for the connectors, but I had 2 extras. If you are using a Weapon-R intake, it is important to get the Air Filter mount from Kartboy Kustoms as the “universal” MAF mount that comes with the intake is more comical than practical.

RE: Silicone connectors needed for intake, Joel wrote me this:

<

many colors direct from the manufacturer in Spokane WA. The company is BelAir Composites:

Belair Composites

3715 Longfellow

SPOKANE WA 99217

(509) 482-0442

There's a good chance this is the company that supplies Turbonetics. I know

they supply Greddy, Majestic turbo, HKS and many others. Cool guys to work

with, prices a lot better than retail.

Joel >>

UPDATE: The intake charge pipe has been replaced with all mandrel bent tubing and Silicone connectors from Belair Composites.

The turbo to MAF is still in process.

Boost Gauge:

Quite possibly one of the most fun parts to having a turbo. The first time you see positive pressure, you’ll smile. This is the first part that should be put on the car, even if you don’t have a turbo. It lets you know how your car is running. Also without it, I would have no way of knowing I was getting 10 pounds of boost. The boost gauge I have is an Autometer 2” (P/N 5703) boost gauge and a mounting cup (P/N 2204) as well. Now that Autometer makes pillar mounts for Imprezas, I’d much rather go that route.

Blow off Valve:

For the blow of valve (BOV), I used a Bosch from Turbonetics. Basically drill a hole in the intake and stick a Home Depot 1″ O/D pipe on there, plug a 1″ heater or dishwashing hose in, then connect the hose to the BOV. The Bosch is plastic so you can’t weld it on like you can a more expensive one. The Bosch BOV is also only $40 so it was the BOV of choice for my initial build up. The air from the BOV is then returned to the filter side of the Intake via hose, but on the turbo side of the MAF so as not to confuse the computer. With the BOV unhooked, it makes a nice loud PSHHHHH sound when letting up the gas, but the car doesn’t idle very well, in fact it usually just dies and is hard to start. The BOV is not absolutely necessary, but I recommend it, read the FAQ on how it works for a better explanation.

Fuel:

Just putting an Intake and exhaust on a car can cause it to run lean. That said, something has to be done about the fuel and every car is a little different, so the settings will differ by car. A more powerful fuel pump is in order to supply fuel. I have a pump from an Rx7 twin turbo for mine. A Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR) is needed to increase the fuel pressure. The car will run “ok” at 5 pounds with no fuel mods, but you will be running lean. For the RRFPR, most people use a 4:1 which means for every one pound of boost, the fuel pressure is increased by 4 pounds. Dyno testing is really needed to get a better setting. 92 octane is also necessary as it is slower burning and less prone to detonation. I would STRONGLY recommend engine management, but if you can’t do it please don’t go cheap on the fueling. At least get an SAFC. The RRFPR is somewhat of a “patch” job and is simply not enough.

Conclusion:

If you are even considering this, I recommend more research. Read turbo magazine, check out other sites with turbo cars such as Jon’s. Don’t limit yourself to Subarus, some of my research is from turbo Civics. One other point I would like to mention is the fun factor of owning a turbo. The whine is great, the blow off, spinning all 4 tires, and smack talking mustang GT’s. That is about it. Thanks for reading this through, I hope it helps. If you have any further questions, comments, or just want to chat, be sure to check out the FAQ, or email me.

Related posts:

1. 1993 1.8 Liter Impreza Turbo FAQ
2. RSLRA Turbo Relocation April 2008
3. 1993 Subaru Impreza Power Steering Pump Rebuild

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Disclaimer: This article is written for information purposes only. I have done a lot of research on these subjects and though to my belief it may be true, I do not take responsibility for any misinformation. These are the most common questions I get and so I thought I would write a FAQ. If you have any questions or comments please fill out the feedback form.

How much boost will my Impreza handle?

This of course depends on the setup. I didn’t originally have an intercooler so I could only run about 7 pounds before hearing any kind of detonation. Realize this is on a 1.8L with 9.5:1 compression. Your results will vary depending on location. To keep it safe, I would recommend  keeping it at 5 pounds until you can get some sort of electronics or SAFC to change the fuel ratio and an intercooler to get the intake temperatures down.

How much Was it?

The initial setup for me ran about $1000 for everything described in the turbo build up page. Expect to spend about $1500 for everything if you shop around and you’ll be a little more safe. Or if you like, all the necessary parts are listed, call around. It’s said that speed cost money, how fast do you want to go?

How does a turbo work.

If you look at the picture, it shows 2 sections. The Turbine section is the part that connects to the exhaust. When you accelerate, the force of the exhaust spins the wheel. The wheel is connected by a center piece that spins the compressor wheel on the compressor section. That is the wheel that sucks air in and forces it through the compressor housing and ultimately into the motor.

How does a Wastegate work?

A wastegate is a bypass for the exhaust. When boost reaches a predetermined level, the wastegate opens up and allows the exhaust to go around the turbo instead of through it and thus maintaining boost at a desired level.

How does a Turbo Timer work?

All a turbo timer does is tell your motor to run for a set amount of time before shutting off. So if you pull into work, you can take the key out, lock the door, and your motor will still run for a little while before turning off. What this allows is for the oil to continue to flow through the turbo and prevent “cokeing.” In other words, the turbo gets red hot from working and if you just shut the motor off after a hard drive, the oil sits in a red hot turbo and just bubbles up which causes it to stick to the internals on the turbo and can damage it.

How does an SFC or Fuel Computer work?

SFC stands for Simple Fuel Computer. It’s a piggy back computer which means it wires into and works with the factory computer. What it allows you to do is adjust the amount of fuel going to the motor at a given RPM by increasing the duty cycle or the amount of time the injector sprays during a pulse. This allows you to keep a constant 14.7 to 1 (is that right?) air fuel ratio throughout the RPM range even with the added air from the turbo. The actual ratio you would want is more like 12 to 1 to be safe on a boosted engine.

What’s a RRFPR and how does it work?

A rising rate fuel pressure regulator or (RRFPR) raises the fuel pressure a predetermined amount based on the amount of boost. For example, a 4:1 setting would raise fuel pressure 4 pounds for every 1 pound of boost. What this does is force more fuel in through the injector during each pulse. Again this is related to solving the fuel starvation issue.

Won’t you blow your motor?

I usually answer this with an enthusiastic yes. When the turbo went on, the car had about 120,000 miles. Now it has 150,000. The motor will go either way, but my belief is with a relatively low amount of boost, and some proper precautions such as an intercooler, the motor will not be overly effected by it’s newly found life.

UPDATE: Sure enough, it blew. The motor had 153,000 miles when it went. Apparently I’ve only been running on 3 cylinders for a while now. When I lost another one, the car just wouldn’t start. I was able to get another motor though for $600 which only has 30,000 miles so it’s worth it. As for why it blew, I think that’s because of my wastegate problem. As stated earlier, it’s best to keep it at 5 pounds until you have the electronics to control the fuel starvation issue. I would spike at 10 pounds.

Update2: The 3rd engine is now in. Pulling a heavy trailer in 100+ degree heat over mountains is simply too much for a non properly intercooled and fueled 1.8L engine.

Can I tell a difference in power?

Yes. The first time I took it out after putting the turbo on, I had four people in the car. When I accelerated from a stop and around a corner, all four tires broke loose. Normally it would have just slowly inched forward. So yes, I can tell.

Will a turbo effect my gas mileage?

With five pounds of boost, not really. I can’t even tell a difference in gas mileage. With an SFC, yes it will because the whole point of an SFC is to increase the amount of fuel going to the motor.

Related posts:

1. Subachad 1993 Impreza 1.8 Liter Turbo Build Up – Original Article
2. Emanage Install on an Impreza Part 2
3. 1993 Subaru Impreza Power Steering Pump Rebuild

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In Part two of the series we do a little more advanced modifications.

Race Cat: Having a CAT right after the exhaust manifold is great to help your car warm up and fight cold start emissions. It’s not so great for good exhaust flow. Here are some pictures and results of replacing the Cat with a straight pipe. I also did some light porting of the exhaust manifold, most of which was on the outside to remove casting marks.

UPDATE: The “race cat” causes a CEL and has since been replaced with the stock CAT.

You might notice that even after all of this exhaust work, the car does not seem to want to go any faster. I suspect the reason is the 2″ opening into the air box. In other words, the car can exhale, but it simply can not get enough air in to make more power. That said, the air box is the next focus of this write up.

Air Box: Phase two of the air box modification involves cutting off the factory pickup and enlarging the hole. The goal is to get the box opening about the same size as the hole in the fender. This can be done with a Dremmel, or you could use a RotoZip type tool. Here are the results and some pictures.

Since the last writing, the air box opening has been enlarged and a Cold/Ram air pickup running to the front bumper has also been installed. There is also an air dam on the car which doesn’t do much for straight line acceleration, but helps keep the car stable.

RESULTS: So what happened? I am getting a much cooler air into the air box and if it’s true that every 4C the air is cooled, there’s about a 1% increase in power, then I should have about 3% more power now. Well, the preCat was put back on the car due to a continuous Check Engine Light. I suspect that at higher RPM’s there is just not enough exhaust flow.

E-Tech Mod: There is a common Daewoo mod known as the “E-Tech Mod”. Claims such as “50% more power increase” sound too good to be true, but are they? In short, yes. While carrying out the previous testing, I decided to tie up the intake valve as the “E-Tech Mod” pages describe. I have always been skeptical, but now I have actual data.

Results: Half a second slower on both accounts, hardly worth it if you ask me.

More Mods, no data

Cold Air Pickup: Well since this write up the intake has been modified more with a ram air setup that goes from the fog light cover to the airbox. Mounting it required enlarging the hole in the fender under the airbox a little more and simply removing the foglight cover. Once I did that a dryer tube shoves the air from the fog light hole into the airbox. There is also a space between the airbox and the tube to allow for a “backup source” in case I go through deep water and to help protect from the rain. It does rain a lot in Portland…

Choco Chip from Daewootech: Get this mod. It works, I didn’t record a large difference but it was near freezing the day I tested it. Not only that, but I think I have other limitations on the car keeping it from having more power.

Exhaust Reducer: There is a spot on the exhaust right after the 2nd CAT where it goes from a 2.5″ to 1.75″ and has no reducer. I noticed this when I took off the exhaust and there was a half inch ring of black all the way around. I picked up a few reducers at a local autoparts stores and mounted it up. This allowed me to pick up an extra inch in exhaust flow. What I mean by that is you can have your hand 14 inches behind my exhaust pipe and feel the pressure. Exhaust velocity = power so this is a good thing.

Grounding Kit: I originally thought this was dumb, but after trying it on the Impreza, I’m impressed. Better throttle response, smoother running engine, and the lights don’t dim when the stereo hits. I haven’t done it yet on the Lanos, but it’s something that can be done well for less than $20.

Conclusion

That’s it, unfortunately I seem to be tapped out of low dollar mods to extract more power out of the little 1.6L. The next step in my opinion is to replace the entire intake manifold with one that flows a little better. This will get rid of the E-Tech, but a properly tuned intake manifold could get some good results. Porting the head might do something, but it depends on the original head design. I have never removed it, so I don’t know. Another option is boost.

Click here to go back to part 1

Related posts:

1. Daewoo Lanos Tuning – Intelligent Performance – Part One
2. Measuring Performance
3. 1993 1.8 Liter Impreza Turbo FAQ

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Since the motor is basically a big air pump, the first thing I will work on is the breathing. Increasing the volumetric efficiency on a newer car does not have the results it would on say an 80′s car, but it’s still the best place to start. The goal is by allowing the engine to breath more easily, it will breath more and hence, more power.

Notes regarding performance testing: For a baseline run, all I have is the 0-60 times I took soon after buying the car. For a more accurate 0-60, I should have a space of road that I can go both directions and take the average, but that’s not available. All the 0-60 times are taken from a specific stop sign where I’m not breaking the speed limit. Also, since the car is an automatic and doesn’t have enough power for wheelspin, the times are very consistent. Future MODS should have the other information as well.

Stock Quotes

0-60: 11.5

30-70 MPH Time: 11.5

Ambient Air Temp: N/A

Air Intake: The first thing to do is look at the stock system and see where there might be any obvious points of improvement. While looking over the Daewoo, I noticed an air box muffler prior to the air box, wrinkled intake line, and a 2″ diameter tube going into the intake box. I’ll try to address all of these to find where the most restrictions are. Another way to check would be making a “manometer” which would measure the pressure drop in inches of water. This can be made with a 20 oz soda bottle, clear tube, wooden dowel, and some food coloring.

Air Box: The first MOD was done within a few days of buying the car new. Simply remove the intake muffler that resides in the fender, and place the flared piece directly on the air box to draw cold air from the fender. It’s important to retain the stock position when drawing in the air since the air in the fender is much cooler than that in the engine bay. For every 4 degrees C, that the air is cooler, that is about a 1% power increase. Though the results are not very good, the sound was much better, but still not well enough. Not bad for a free MOD that just took a little time.

Air Box

0-60: 10.5

30-70 MPH Time: N/A

Ambient Air Temp: N/A

Exhaust: The exhaust for the most part looks pretty good, 1.75″ and crush bends. I really don’t think a new exhaust will do much for this car, but there are some areas that can use some tweaking. The first is the CAT right after the exhaust manifold. While this is great for emissions, it’s too restrictive for performance reasons. Also, since the car is a LEV, removing this CAT might not have that bad of an effect on emissions. Also of course is the stock muffler which as a general rule, especially on cheap cars, is restrictive. Finally some mild porting to the exhaust manifold might yield a little bit of power.

Muffler: Stock mufflers are generally rather restrictive. From an automakers standpoint, people are more interested in a quiet car and one way to make a car quiet is with a cheap and restrictive muffler. I simply cut off the old muffler and welded on a 2.25″ straight through design muffler with a “ricey” tip. Normally I would not buy that particular type of tip, but I got the muffler used with the tip already on it. The resulting sound is non intrusive.

Muffler

0-60: 10.7

30-70 MPH Time: 11.76

Ambient Air Temp: 50F

Location Of Probe / Hi Lo

Temp @ Airbox: 58.4C/137F 8.6C/47F

Temp in Airbox: 41C/105.8F 5C/41F

Temp in Fender: 23.1C/73F 7.4C/41F

You might be wondering why it’s a little slower on the 0-60. Well, in True Portland style, the testing was carried out during rainy conditions which led to wheelspin.

Click here for Part Two of this Article.

Related posts:

1. Daewoo Lanos Tuning – Intelligent Performance – Part Two
2. Measuring Performance
3. Getting More For Less – Part 1

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Well after 3 weeks of waiting for a bolt, I realized it’s probably not coming and here is my alternative solution. Another Brace. This brace turned out to be much simpler than I had originally expected. No welding required, simply trimming, marking some holes and shaping to fit. As a side benefit, the shifter is now more solid than ever, and there is no wheel hop.

With this brace in place, it would triangulate the engine brace with the lower part of the transmission and mount to the torque mount.

Feel free to leave comments in the comment section if you have any questions.

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3. Aveo Control Arm Bushing March 2009

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UVNC is a great open source progam for connecting to servers or PC’s. One of the major setbacks however is the difficulty in installing UVNC while connected with Remote Desktop, or RDP. The problem is it will run as the signed in user and even if you are signed into the console it still doesn’t seem to work right. Here are a couple of batch files I have written to uninstall UVNC and then another to reinstall UVNC. These can be used with a Remote Desktop (RDP) connection or through command line as well. To use these, simply copy the contents into a text file and save as UVNC-Uninstall.bat or UVNC-Install.bat.

UVNC-Uninstall.bat

@echo on

REM ~~~ uninstalling UVNC ~~~

“%ProgramFiles%\UltraVNC\unins000.exe” /SILENT /Y

“%ProgramFiles%\UltraVNC\unins001.exe” /SILENT /Y

UVNC-Install.bat

@echo on

REM ~~~ This Batch File will Install or Update UVNC ~~~

net stop uvnc_service

cd “c:\program files\UltraVNC”

copy \\softwareserver\UltraVNC\ultravnc.ini “c:\program files\ultravnc\ultravnc.ini” /Y

\\softwareserver\UltraVNC\UltraVNCSetup.exe /loadinf=\\softwareserver\UltraVNC\ultravnc\ultravncInstall.inf /silent /log

cd “%ProgramFiles%\UltraVNC\winvnc.exe”
“%ProgramFiles%\UltraVNC\winvnc.exe” -install

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2. “Event ID 5″ error on “DefaultAppPool”
3. A better Task Switcher AKA Alt-Tab Replacement

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The project started by loading up my welder, 4.5” angle grinder, electric die grinder, wire brush, gloves, welding helmet, porting bits and a few other misc fabrication tools into the Skittle and headed off to James for some work on his Beastly rear wheel drive Impreza.

In typical fashion the day started off with me checking out progress on the car. The roll cage is installed, multiple braces, engine, transmission. Sure it’s missing some front fenders and a dash but it’s a mostly complete car.

Seeing what needs to be done, we started by porting out the bolt holes a little bit with the aggressive electric die grinder. This allowed us to drop the flange where the up pipe bolts to the turbo. We then trimmed down some tubing and tacked that onto the flange. This allowed us to guesstimate the height of the turbo and do a little more trimming of the tubing. Clocked the turbo, marked the tubing, removed the extender and welded it up.

That’s pretty much it, you can see in the pictures the finished product which allows us to raise the turbo without actually hacking up the rather pricey Symms header/up pipe. One thing remains however is the downpipe. Not sure how it will be done, but we do know the current downpipe will not work. A future article will address it.

Thanks for reading.

Related posts:

1. WRX GT Spec Headers April 2008
2. Subachad 1993 Impreza 1.8 Liter Turbo Build Up – Original Article
3. Gutting a Stock WRX UpPipe and Turbo Back Install

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Total Fuel Flow (lb/hr) = Injector Size (lb/hr) X number of injectors

To convert lb/hr to gallons-per-hour divide by 6.25.

To convert from pounds-per-hour to liters-per-hour divide by 1.64.

To convert from gallons-per-hour to liters-per-hour, multiply by 3.8.

OK, now that this is out of the way lets figure out what I need for my 200 hp 1.8L.

The injector size we figured on is 29.4 pounds/hr

Total Fuel Flow (lb/hr) = 29.4 X 4

Total Fuel Flow (lb/hr) = 117.6

Now we have to convert it to Liters-per-hour since that’s what most pumps are measured by.

117.6 * 1.64 = 192.86

So the fuel pump needed will only need to flow about 193 LPH.

Related posts:

1. 1993 1.8 Liter Impreza Turbo FAQ

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