It’s an awesome thing to care for an animal that’s so young, so tiny and helpless, it would not survive if left on its own even for a few hours. It can also be scary. What if I do something wrong? What if it dies? All of these thoughts will rush through your head as you look down at the defenseless little ball of fluff. Well, I’m here to tell you, you can do this. It’s going to e a challenge, yes, and you are going to be exhausted soon into it. But when it comes to caring for a bottle baby kitten, it’s going to be so worth it.

I’ve raised two bottle baby kittens. Both successfully. The first we named Little Bit. She had been abandoned in a parking lot where I worked. Some woman came in to say she heard a cat under the hood of my coworkers car. But when my coworker went out to check she didn’t hear or see anything. After work, my coworker went to Home Depot. Then she went home. Around 9pm, my phone rang.

“There was a cat in my car!” My coworker said frantically.

Turns out, the woman who came in to tell us she heard the cat in the car must have stuffed the cat up inside the car herself. It was so tiny. It’s eyes were barely open. It could barely stand up, let alone have the ability to crawl up inside that car. I told my co-worker to try to give it water with an eye dropper and, if it made it through the night she could bring it to the office and I see what I could do.

My co-worker brought her to the office the next day. She had spent hours in the heat with no food or water. How she survived the heat and the car rides to Home Depot and to my coworkers house was a miracle in itself. But she was in such bad shape. I called our veterinarian right away. The veterinarian estimated her to be 10 days old. She was extremely dehydrated and not expected to live. But, because I was not about to give up, my veterinarian explained everything I would have to do. If the kitten survived the night, there would be a slim chance she could survive. Today, she’s three years old.

The second bottle baby was one I agreed to foster. It was part of a litter of seven brought to the shelter in Pasco County because the mother had passed away. Because they were full, they asked if we could take them at the Humane Society of the Nature Coast. Of course, the Director of Development, , could not say no. She went and picked them up and they were taken in by fosters. I was blessed to take one of them. As we didn’t need another pet (we already have a house full) we didn’t want to give him a name. It would make it easier to hand him over after our time in caring for him was over. But we couldn’t keep calling him, “it.” So we named him Voldemort. Harry Potter fans will get the humor. “He who cannot be named.”

While both kittens came into our care under different circumstances, both survived. So I can tell you from personal experience. If you are faced with this situation, and you are determined to help the little fur bundle live, you can do this.

Of course, the first thing you have to do when you undertake any task, is get prepared. There are several things you are going to need to gather from around the house and things you will have to purchase. Then I am going to explain the whole process. So. Let’s get started.

A Secure Place to Keep Them

Baby kittens are so vulnerable. You will need to make sure they are kept safe, especially if you have young children or other pets in the house. Small children can be rough with tiny kittens and could unintentionally harm them if they aren’t supervised when interacting with the kitten. Your other pets will be naturally curious and, whether or not they intend to, they too could harm or even kill such a fragile little kitten. I suggest a carrier with a door on the top, which can be kept secure. A top-loader will make it easier for you to get the kitten in and out for feeding time.

Keep them Warm

You are going to make sure your little fur baby stays warm. Normally, your little fur ball would be snuggled with its mother and siblings to stay warm. In the absence of a fur family, you are going to come up with an alternative way to provide that warmth.

You have, essentially, two options. An electric heating pad or one you heat in a microwave oven. I strongly suggest the latter. Primarily because the microwave version doesn’t have an electric cord, which the little critter could chew on. It’s also never a good idea to leave a heating pad on and unattended. There are fire risks when it’s on and overheats, and you can’t turn it off at night because you need to keep the kitten warm. The microwave version is absolutely safe and provides long sessions of warmth with no worries.

Create a nice, soft bed in the bottom of the carrier out of small, soft blankets, being sure to tuck the heating pad under the blankets so the kitten doesn’t lay directly on it. I used old baby blankets, donated from a friend. Make sure to keep the heating pad on one side of the carrier so the kitten can move away from it when it gets too warm. Be sure to wash the blankets regularly to keep the carrier nice and clean.

Feeding

You are going to need to buy a few things. You can get all of these items at any local pet supply store. Of course, you’re going to need a bottle. Most pet supply stores sell a package that contains a bottle, various sized nipples and a bottle cleaning brush. You will also need to buy Kitten Milk Replacer. It’s baby formula for cats and there are several brands. I’ve used them all and they are all good products.

Never feed a baby kitten cow’s milk. Kittens lack the proper enzymes to digest the lactose in cow milk, and feeding cow milk to kittens can cause diarrhea and dehydration very quickly.

The formula comes in liquid and powder form. The liquid comes in three sizes, The 32 ounce box, the 8 ounce cans and Mylar pouches that come in 8, 11 and 192 ounce sizes. After opening the liquid formula container you have to keep the rest refrigerated. After being opened, the formula will only last for 72 hours so use the amount of formula you need each day in mind. Don’t open a container you can use completely within three days because you will only be tossing money down the sink drain. Obviously, the liquid is more convenient, and trust me, expediting the preparation and feeding time is going to be important… quickly.

While it takes a bit more effort, I strongly suggest the powder form of formula, and here’s why. You mix the powder with a 2-to-1 ratio with water and it has a 24-hour shelf-life in the refrigerator. Yes, it doesn’t last as long but you can mix only what you need each day. There is little if any waste. By mixing the powdered formula each day, you will always know the formula is still good. You must be very careful not to feed the kitten soured formula. This could cause vomiting that could lead to dehydration. If the kitten gets dehydrated, it can sink fast and you should get the kitten to the vet quickly.

Burping

Yes, burping. Just like human babies, kittens will swallow air while feeding. This gas will cause a bit of discomfort if it isn’t… expelled… from one end or the other. After feeding, hold the kitten like a baby and pat its little back until it burps or… well, you know. You will be surprised how loud it will be sometimes and how much air it expels. It always makes me chuckle.

Potty Time

Okay. There really isn’t a subtle way to put this. Not only are baby kittens unable to feed themselves, they are also unable to go to the bathroom with out… assistance.

Normally, the mother cat would help the kitten by licking its… well, you know. Well, without the mother there to do this, you are going to have to take up the challenge.

The way I have found is easiest, and less messy, is to take the kitten to the bathroom. Get a handful of toilet paper and dampen a bit of it with warm water. Then, while holding the kitten over the toilet bowl or the sink (with plenty of paper towels in it to catch “everything”) and gently rub the warm, damp toilet paper bundle back and forth across its little kitty bits. It won’t take long. It will urinate almost immediately. The “other” might take a bit more time. For moms with human babies, you’ll recognize the color immediately. We even have a name for it… “Baby poop yellow.”

Don’t worry if your kitten doesn’t poop each time. It’s normal for that to only happen every other day. However, if it doesn’t poop for more than two days, it may be constipated. Do not give the kitten any laxatives or mineral oil. It’s too aggressive on their tender systems and that could lead to diarrhea and dehydration. Cut the formula with twice the water. This usually gets things “moving.” If it doesn’t, take the kitten to a veterinarian. They will likely solve the problem with, yes… an enema.

Feeding Schedule

Remember when I said it would be important to make the preparation for feeding time efficient? Well, feeding and caring for a baby kitten is much like caring for a newborn human baby… only without the diaper.

Just like with a human baby, a kitten will nurse for about 45 minutes at a time every 2 to 3 hours during its first week of life. The rest of the time the kitten will be sleeping. While it takes a bit of time, the kitten will consume about a tablespoon, or 15 ml, of formula at each feeding.

It’s going to be an exhausting adventure. Because the kitten needs to be fed ever two hours, that means you are going to have to get up to feed it every two hours, and that means day and night. If you have other family members who can help, I strongly recommend that you teach them the fine art of ‘mommying’ the kitten so you can get some sleep.

By the end of the first week, the ear canals of a kitten will have opened and, if it is eating appropriately, it should weigh about 4 oz. You should monitor the kitten’s weight daily to make sure it is gaining, not losing weight. I use a regular digital kitchen scale.

At two to three weeks old, the kitten will still need to be fed every two to three hours. By now, it’s eyes should be open and, while it will be adorably wobbly, it will start to crawl around.

By the end of week 3, the kitten should weigh about 11 ounces and will be able to stand up. Normally, this is about the time the kitten would have started interacting with its littermates, engaging in ear-biting, wrestling, and exploring its surroundings. This is all part of learning those all-important social skills. But, since you are the only “family” the kitten has, it will be up to you to provide these skills as well as teaching discipline. More on that later.

Potty Training

There’s going to come the day when you reach in to get the kitten out of the carrier and you will notice that the bedding is wet… or worse. That’s because your kitten is able to go to the bathroom on their own now. Now it’s time to start teaching them how to use a litter box. This also means you will need to provide them a larger living space. I use a large cage. I keep the bedding on one side and a shallow litter box on the other side.

Kittens learn and explore in the same way human babies do–with their mouths. You will need to choose a litter that doesn’t create dust the kitten will inhale and one that is safe for them to eat. I use a litter made from corn cobbs. Do not introduce the kitten to adult cat litter until it is at least 2-3 months old.

You should also use a shallow litter box so it’s easy for them to get in and out of it. I actually use the small cardboard tray the cat food come in for our adult kitties. I just cut the box down, leaving about a one-inch lip in the front so the kitten can easily step in and out. Then I toss it out and create a new one. 

Kittens tend to be drawn to corners so placing the litter box in the corner of its cage will give them a better chance of finding it. Because kittens are traditionally messy learners at this as well, placing a puppy pad under the box will make it easier for you to keep their area clean.

Introducing Food and Water

During weeks 4 and 5, the kitten will start consuming more formula but will require feeding less frequently. It’s about this time you should provide and a small bowl of formula, which the kitten can start to practice drinking from. By the end of week 5, you should only be nursing the kitten with the bottle three times a day. However, the kitten should be consuming about 3 tablespoons formula at each feeding.

By 4 to 5 weeks of age the kitten should weigh about 14 to 16 oz. It’s at this time you should start offering the formula in a saucer as often as possible rather than using the bottle to feed it. Start using less water when mixing the powdered formula to start getting the kitten use to eating rather than drinking. If all goes well there, start mixing formula with wet kitten food. This is going to be messy at first, and totally adorable. It’s going to walk through it, do face-plants in it… and fall asleep in it, so have you camera ready!

By six weeks of age, your kitten should be eating the gruel four times a day and nursing much less from the bottle. The gruel should have less and less formula added while simultaneously introducing dry kitten kibbles with a separate bowl of water.

Socializing and Discipline

Another thing you will have to do is provide the social skills and discipline the kitten would have otherwise received from littermates or its mother. Once the little kitten has stared to crawl, stand and walk — three to four weeks old — it will want to explore and play. I usually take the kitten to my bedroom and close the door. This keeps the other pets away so we can play in a safe environment.

At first, the kitten won’t have much interest in toys. For the first couple of weeks it will primarily be occupied with sleeping or learning how its own legs work. Around three weeks old it will start being curious when it comes to toys and things that move. When you interact with the kitten — petting and gently duplicating the wrestling it would have otherwise engaged in with its siblings — you will be helping the kitten learn coordination and accuracy. However, there will be times when the kitten will be too aggressive. When the kitten bites too hard or uses its claws too aggressively, you will have to teach it the little kitten the manners its mother would have laid out.

The most effective way to teach the kitten a certain behavior isn’t acceptable is to do precisely what the mother would do. Give the kitten a firm pinch to the skin on the back of the neck, pin it gently to the floor and say “no.” Don’t pinch so hard it hurts the kitten and don’t yell “no.” Just pin the kitten down firmly for a second and say the word ‘no’ in a firm but calm voice. Then, let go. You will be surprised how quickly the kitten gets the message. It’s important to do this the moment the kitten exhibits the unwanted behavior. That way, the kitten will associate the discipline with the behavior. Otherwise, it will just think you’re being mean and that will cause trust issues. When the kitten adjusts its behavior, praise the kitten immediately by using your higher-toned mommy voice ( you know the one) and give it lots of gentle rubbings.

And be consistent. Just like with human children, don’t expect a kitten to learn good behavior if you aren’t able to provide the necessary guidance every time it exhibits bad behavior. If you have other members of the house interacting with the kitten, teach them how to teach the kitten how to be a well-behaved member of the family as well.

Bathing

Yep. You’ll have to give the kitten regular baths. But not in water. Feeding, going to the bathroom… Your little kitten is going to need to be kept clean in order to keep it healthy. The mother cat will keep its kittens clean by licking them. This is what you must duplicate. Personally, I get a soft, warm, damp cloth and simulate the movements a mother cat would make while stroking the kittens fur. It’s amazing how calming this is to the kitten. Sometimes, I like using a spray bath product. I spray it on the cloth and rub it into the fur and it makes them smell baby powder fresh! They just lay there, letting you clean them. It seems to be very comforting to them. I suppose this is because one of the ways cats bod and show affection for each other is grooming. Because of this, it can also be a loving way for you and your kitten to bond.

So, there you have it. While it’s tedious and time consuming and you’re going to be very tired for the first month or so, it’s so rewarding when you see a kitten who otherwise would not have survived, grow strong and healthy because of your devotion… and love.

Be sure to take lots of photos, and keep a journal. All of this will make for a fabulous table book for your guests to look through!

The person — who went by the screen name of “Concerned Pet Owner” — shared with the Humane Society of the Nature Coast that his family “recently adopted a 7-year-old dog named Sadie” and it was their first time adopting a dog. They love their new dog but are frustrated by one thing. My New Dog Keeps Urinating in the House! Help!

Oh… and none of the photos in this post are of Sadie. But pictures make any story better!

“She is a very sweet dog who is kind and sweet and loves to cuddle,” Concerned Pet Owner shared, adding that “when she goes for a walk she does not pull.” But when Sadie sees a “another male or another dog,” he said “she starts to cry and whimper.”

“This is strange and I can only assume it is because she was abused or mistreated as a puppy and as a young dog,” he shared further. “I also have a new issue with her, and the issue is that she keeps peeing all over my house. She only pees in my upstairs living room and it is starting to become a real issue. We took her to the doctor a few days after we got her, and the doctor said she has nothing except an ear infection. Is there a proper way to reprimand her without hitting her or making her afraid of us? That is the last thing I would want to do to a dog that has gone through that already. Please help me!”

This is not the first time a new dog owner has experienced this problem and researching this issue inspired me to think others might need similar advice. So… Concerned Pet Owner, this blog is dedicated to you.

First, please don’t give up on your dog or give your dog away. I promise, you can work through this! It’s just going to take some consistency and patience.

1 – Make Sure it isn’t a Medical Issue

If your adult dog is urinating in the house it may be a sign there is a medical issue. A urinary tract infection is one of the most common reasons for inappropriate urination and one of the most frequently seen health problems in dogs. Urinary incontinence is another possibility. While it is often associated with senior dogs, it’s possible for a dog to develop incontinence as a young adult. Medications can usually solve these problems.

2 – Don’t Hit or Yell

Punishing or screaming at your dog for urinating in the house will usually make things worse rather than better. Dogs have very short-term memory so if you reprimand a dog after you discover it has urinated in the house, it will have no idea why you are angry. Such action from you will be more likely to teach the dog that people are unpredictable or unsafe to be around rather than teaching them they did something wrong. Punishing your dog when you catch them in the act, especially one that has been abused in the past, may actually make it afraid to urinate in front of you (even outdoors), which could lead to more indoor accidents. If a dog has been abused in the past, some additional patience and effort on your part may be required… which brings me to the second suggestion.

3 – Back to School

You may have to re-potty train your dog. Maybe the new surroundings has the pup a bit confused and they aren’t sure what the program is for going outside for potty breaks. Maybe the previous owners didn’t provide adequate or consistent training for the pup at all so they might not be sure of what they are supposed to do. I have two dogs, both adopted and previously owned. One barks when he has to go out. The other just sits at the back door and waits. If I don’t pay attention and see the second dog at the door… she will eventually let it go, right there at the back door. Remember. The best ingredient for successful training with a dog on anything is consistency and patience.

4 – Increase Potty Breaks

Take your dog outside to pee first thing in the morning when they wake up and don’t let them back in until they complete the task… even in bad weather. Also take them out right after drinking, eating and especially right after they wake up from a nap. Again, make them stay outside until they do their thing. When they do, praise them and offer a treat immediately. This way, they will associates praise and treats with peeing outside.

5 – Clean up Properly

If you pay attention when a dog goes to the bathroom, they start by smelling the area. They are creatures of habit and will usually go in the same places for #1 and #2. If the dog can smell where it has urinated before in the house it will come to believe that is “the bathroom.” Thoroughly clean up each accident as soon as possible with an enzymatic cleaner that eliminates the smell. Resolve Urine Destroyer is a very good product. Another thing to do is block off the places where your dog keeps using as a bathroom. If you see the dog going there, take it outside and wait until they to the bathroom. Eventually, they will figure out… “Ohhh… this is where I do that!”

6 – Get Professional Help

Another possibility is that your dog might be exhibiting submissive or excitement urination. This can occur when a dog feels intimidated by someone or something. This can be especially true with a dog that has been abused by a previous owner or attacked by another dog. Dogs may also urinate in inappropriate places when they feel anxious or afraid. An animal behaviorist or a qualified trainer may be able to assess the cause of the problem — sometimes in a single session — and can provide you with ways to help your dog past their fears.

If you are having problems potty training your dog, or if you have successfully helped your dog learn the bathroom is OUTSIDE and you have some tips to share, please feel free to tell us about it in the comment section below!

Just like people, dogs can experience a loss of eyesight as they get older. While some dogs are born sightless or visually impaired, others may lose their vision due to cataracts, glaucoma, progressive retinal atrophy, or suddenly acquired retinal degeneration (also known as SARDS). While most fur parents would do anything for their beloved fur babies, caring for a blind dog or one who is losing its eyesight can present a special set of challenges. But it isn’t a difficult as you might think!

Ultimately, the loss of eyesight does not mean your fur baby must suffer a poor quality of life. On the contrary. You might be surprised how well your blind pup can get around without seeing a thing! As the fur parent of a blind, 12-year-old Boston Terrier, I am in a qualified position of experience to provide some insight and tips for living with a blind dog.

My husband and I adopted Miss Sweet Pea from the Humane Society of the Nature Coast in August of 2020. We didn’t plan on having a new fur-baby so soon. We had just lost our precious Mr. Maximus after a year-long battle with canine lymphoma and we were still deep in grief. Then we saw Sweet Pea, a 12-year-old, blind Boston Terrier with (what we have come to learn is) selective hearing and fell in love immediately. Then came our new challenge… living with a blind dog.

Of course, the first thing we did was to go online to find information and tips for living with a blind dog. Most sources offer the same common sense suggestions. But the ones we find the most helpful are the ones we’ve learned through experience. A selection of both are shared below.

Prepare Your Home for Your Blind Fur Baby

If you have just adopted a sightless or vision impaired dog, it’s a good idea to arrange the furniture in your home in a way that allows for ease of movement through each room. When you bring your sightless fur baby home for the first time, walk them through the house on a leash – slowly — so they can start becoming familiar with the layout of their new surroundings. Talk to them and let them know where they are.

Pay particular attention to showing them the way to their bed and their food and water bowls. Show them the way to the doors to other rooms and how to go outside and be sure to familiarize them with the backyard for when they need to go do their business. Help your dog create a house and yard roadmap in their mind.

If you have a pet that is going blind, keep as much of the existing environment and furniture payout the same as possible. They already know their way around and drastic changes could create confusion, fear and even injury.

WARNING: If you have a pool or a pond in your back yard, NEVER LET YOUR BLIND DOG GO THERE UNSUPERVISED!!!

We have a large pond in our backyard. One night, Miss Sweet Pea decided to cross the bridge that spans the width of the pond and, when she made that right turn too early, she fell straight into the pond and sank like a rock. I ran, jumped in and fished her off the bottom of the pond and she came up sputtering and shaking. That was a terrifying lesson I will never forget. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER LEAVE YOUR BLIND DOG UNSUPERVISED NEAR WATER!!!

Again — DON’T REARRANGE THE FURNITURE!

For anyone who knows me, they can tell you. For me to not rearrange furniture is like not tapping my foot when I hear my favorite song playing. I love rearranging furniture to keep things new… But “new” can be hazardous for your blind dog. Even setting something down on the floor for a moment, like a basket of laundry or a sack of groceries, becomes a roadblock for your blind fur baby. I was pressure washing the lanai one day and went to let Sweet Pea out to go potty and BAM… she ran face-first into it because it was smack-dab in the middle of the path she took going out to the back yard.

Sweet Pea has already learned her way around the house and is so familiar with the layout she gets around just as well as her sighted fur-siblings. In fact, when people come to visit, they are surprised to find out she can’t see.

Be Aware of Where They Are

Because Sweet Pea loves being around us, she follows the sound of our voices. Because of that and we frequently find ourselves turning around and almost tripping over her. Her tiny size only adds to the frequency with which she becomes a tripping hazard (hence her nickname “speed bump”). While it’s frustrating and sometimes scary for us, we can only imagine what it’s like for her. Imagine just wanting some company only to wind up getting a foot in the head.

Pay Attention to Floor Textures

Another thing we’ve observed is “how” Sweet Pea navigates her way around the house and backyard. She is actually “listening” and “feeling” her way around. When her paws are tapping on granite tile, she knows she’s in the wide-open area of the living room and she zips around as fast as her sighted brother Einstein and sister cats, Little Bit and Miss Kitty Kitty. Because the tile in the dining area has a different texture, she knows precisely when she enters the dining area. When her paws touch the low-nap area rug, she knows she’s near furniture and she slows down. When her feet hit thick pile carpet, she knows she’s in the bedrooms.

Try to leave area rugs where they are. Moving them will confuse your fur-baby. When I had a runner from the hallway hanging on the fence to dry after a good scrubbing, she stopped abruptly when she came to where it should have been. She then moved cautiously forward until she came to where she knew where she was again before resuming her confident pace.

If you frequently leave doors open, don’t start keeping them closed. If you have a sliding door to go outside, pay attention when you open and close it. If Sweet Pea hears the door open she will sometimes come running to go out. If I shut it before she gets there, without knowing she’s coming… Well, it’s no fun watching her smash face-first into the glass.

Introduce Them to Their Fur (or Feathered) Siblings

If you have other pets in your home, take time to introduce your blind pup to each one of them with supervision, especially if any of them are known to be “enthusiastic” playmates.

While Sweet Pea’s sister kitties aren’t the “play-time” sort, they are known to snuggle with Sweet Pea for naps and at bed-time. Sweet Pea has already trained big brother Einstein to know she isn’t a push-over and se frequently claims his bed just to remind him who’s in charge! But it’s always adorable when they all nap together… and it’s always on mom and dad’s bed.

Sweet Pea adored her sister Nadya. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to sped much time with Nadya because she was ill when we adopted her. But Sweet Pea helped us give her the best life ever.

Let others know your dog is blind

When other people see your dog, they may ask… “Can I pet your dog?” While you might be okay with that, it’s important to let your sightless pup know someone is getting ready to touch them. There are times when I look over at Miss Sweet Pea while she’s sitting next to me on the sofa and she’s just so darn adorable I have to reach over to give her a pat on the head… and she almost jumps out of her skin.

Always give your blind fur baby a verbal warning before you touch them. When others want to pet your pup, tell the person your dog is blind and ask them to call your pup’s name and to approach slowly. Have them put their hand near your dog’s face so they can smell the person is near them and allow the dog to lean forward to get their scent. It would also be a good idea to have your dog wear something that will identify their condition when around other people and especially in case your dog gets lost.

When we have company, Sweet Pea can hear the new voice in the house. As she goes over to meet them I advise the guest that she is bind and I ask them to stand still until she checks them out. She’ll go over, smell their legs, and then she walks away. Interestingly, when a guest returns that she liked and she hears their voice she will go over, smell their leg and when she has confirmed their scent she gets so excited, standing on her hind legs bouncing with happiness in a plea for them to pick her up so she can give them kisses!

When going out in public it’s a good idea to prepare them with something that will let others know they are blind. Get a shirt, bandana or vest for your dog that reads “I’m blind” to wear on walks. Tell people about your dog’s condition so they approach slowly and let the dog sniff them first. Also, get a tag for your dog’s collar that says “I’m blind” in case the pup ever gets lost. There are also halos, which protect the pup’s head when exploring new environments.

Give your dog a safe zone.

It is important to establish an area in the house that provides a safe place for your blind pup to “get away.”

So, to provide her a “safe space,” Sweet Pea and her big German Shepherd Dog brother Einstein have a little spot against the wall in the family room where they can be out of the way of “traffic,” yet still be part of the gang. There’s a large dog bed for Einstein and a small one for Sweet Pea. But, that’s not to say she doesn’t claim his bed now and then. We do find that Sweet Pea goes there often and will frequently sit facing the wall. We thought it was strange at first. But then we realized… No matter which way she is facing, the “view” for Sweet Pea is always the same!

Fun, Pleasure and Play-Time

One of the greater challenges with a blind dog is finding ways to engage with them in play. Since they can’t see, “fetch” is out. But there are other ways to have fun with your sightless pup. The best way to discover what they enjoy is to pay attention. They will let you know.

Sweet Pea loves plush squeaky toys! In fact, whenever we come home (even if it was after a short trip to the grocery store), we give her a squeaky toy. She is so excite, she takes it in her mouth, runs to her bed and shakes it around until she gets the excitement out of her system. Then she finds you and insists on snuggles. It’s a ritual we all enjoy.

A peculiar thing we have noticed is Sweet Pea really loves sitting in the sunlight. While she can’t see sunlight, she can definitely feel it, and you can tell by the look on her face that it feels so very good.

Whether she’s inside or outside, she has her favorite places where she knows the sun will be shining and she will sit there, eye closed, for the longest time doing nothing but soak up the warmth.

She love dress-up! It doesn’t matter what it is. But you can tell, the moment you put something on her she literally smiles .

Sweet Pea absolutely loves playing dress-up hanging around the Silkie Chickens. Maybe their small size makes her feel like a big sister! When the Silkies are free ranging in the backyard Sweet Pea likes hanging together with them. Hedda Hopper has really boded with her. They often find a sunny spot in the yard and just sit there soaking up the rays together. On Tu Tu Tuesdays they get dressed up and Sweet Pea grins like she knows she’s pretty!

So, there you have it. Except for the fact that one can’t see, there really isn’t much difference between as sighted and blind dogs. While one might require a little extra care, they both love to play, they love to get snuggles and they love being part of a family.

If you have a vision-impaired dog and have some advice to share, or if you have a dog that is losing sight or plan on adopting a sightless pup and have questions, please share it in the comment section below.

Every day, the Humane Society of the Nature Coast (HSNC) receives 20 to 30 phone calls from people who want to surrender their pet and every day we make it our mission to find these frightened dogs and cats a new home where they will find the only thing that ever really matters to anyone… a home where someone loves them. We’re pretty good at it. The average time between intake and adoption for dogs at the HSNC is 14 days. But sometimes pup comes through our doors that’s a little… well.. different. Maybe they don’t have the standard number of legs. A little pup named Violet is like that. We all know it takes a special provider to adopt a pet with special needs. The question is: Could you be her miracle?

Violet is a medium-sized, mixed breed pup aged precisely six years three months and 19 days as of Dec. 28. She’s up to date on her age-appropriate vaccinations. She has been spayed and has received a microchip. She’s a pretty girl. She’s smart, potty trained, gets along with other dogs… and cats… and she absolutely loves to jump around. You’d hardly notice she only has three legs!

She’s also been here since November 24. That’s over double the amount of time it normally takes for a dog to find a new home.

“Three legged dogs normally go like that,” HSNC Director of Development Susanna Arneson said snapping her fingers. “I don’t understand why she’s still here.” In fact, the HSNC has found home for around ten tri-pod fur babies in the past year… and all were in record time.

As you may have already guessed, Violet’s life hasn’t been easy. In fact, the effort just to stay alive has been a horrific challenge for her. She was found on the side of the road in Pasco County. She had been hit by a car. Someone found her and took her to Pasco Animal Services where the staff immediately rushed her to an emergency veterinary center where it was determined her leg had to be amputated. Being overwhelmed with pets themselves, Pasco reached out to the HSNC for help. The next day, Susanna made the drive to get her and bring her into the care of one of our loving fur foster parents.

“It was so sad,” recalled Arneson, who has seen more than her share of heartbreaking emergency cases since taking charge of the shelter.

It’s uncertain how long Violet had been on her own before she was found on the side of the road. She was emaciated and covered with fleas.

“She was in a lot of pain,” Arneson said, “and we wound up having to take her to Three Oaks Veterinary Service for additional pain medication.” Recuperation took a couple of weeks. But Violet is a determined trooper.

“She bonds very quickly,” Arneson shared. In fact, Violet is so desperate to be loved she becomes very protective of anyone who gives her affection. So, whoever adopts Violet must understand she needs to be a real member of the family.”

She needs to be with someone who wants to spend time with her. She needs someone who will socialize her, someone who will take her out into the world and take her to places where she can meet other people and other dogs and learn that this interaction can be fun.

Imagine having come through Violet’s past. Aside from of getting hit by a car and having your leg amputated, imagine the feeling of being so alone, of feeling so unloved. Then someone holds you… a hero.

Yes, it takes a special provider to adopt a pet with special needs. Could you be Violet’s hero?

Could you be her miracle?

To find out more about Violet and to schedule an appointment to meet this lovable little girl, call 352-796-2711.

UPDATE:

Guess who found her forever home on NEW YEAR’S EVE!!!

YAY, VIOLET!!!

We’ve all seen the heartwarming Christmas commercials: A little girl or boy comes down the stairs on Christmas morning. They stop suddenly, a look of rapturous joy comes to their face. The camera pans to the puppy (or kitten), complete with a big red bow around their neck, frolicking beneath the tree. The scene ends with the child hugging the new pet, giggling and laughing as it bathes their face with kisses.

It’s a tradition to give pets as gifts on special occasions, such as birthdays or holidays. But it is a good idea? Against what some will tell you… repeated surveys show that pets as gifts is a fabulous and successful idea! yes, it is!

Studies conducted by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) in the 1990’s and 2000 found that pets acquired as gifts are less likely to be relinquished than pets acquired by the individual. Specifically speaking, 96% of the people who received pets as gifts thought it either increased or had no impact on their love or attachment to that pet and 86% of the pets that were given as gifts are still in the home. The survey also revealed no difference in attachment based on the gift being a surprise or known in advance. 

An additional study from 2013 revealed the same results.

Animal welfare organizations like PETA insist that it’s a bad idea to give pets as gifts, despite the fact that this belief is unfounded.

“Denying adopters who intend to give the animals as gifts may unnecessarily impede the overarching goal of increasing adoptions of pets from our nations’ shelter system,” the ASPCA’s 2013 survey summary concluded. “We found that receiving a dog or cat as a gift was not associated with impact on self-perceived love/attachment, or whether the dog or cat was still in the home. These results suggest there is no increased risk of relinquishment for dogs and cats received as a gift.”

Like the ASPCA, the Humane Society of the Nature Coast supports the idea of giving pets as gifts but recommends that pets are given as gifts under the following conditions:

1) The person or people receiving the pet as a gift have already expressed a sustained interest in having one

2) The person or people receiving the pet as a gift are physically and financially prepared to care for it responsibly and

3) The pet to be gifted was obtained from animal shelters or rescue organizations rather than being purchased from people or places where the source of the animal is unknown or untrusted.

The best part of adopting animals in shelters is that these pets are thoroughly vetted for health and behavioral issues and have already been spayed (or neutered), have received all their age-appropriate vaccinations and have likely received a microchip. These things alone will remove the burden of those responsibilities, and the expense, from your intended recipient. Best yet, your loved one will not only receive the gift of a new companion — but they’ll also know they’ve helped find a homeless pet a forever home.

“When you give an animal as a gift know it’s going to be a 10 to 15 year commitment,” Humane Society of the Nature Coast (HSNC) Director of Development advises. She added that HSNC conducts “an extensive vetting interview for adoptions to minimize the return rate,” which HSNC keeps below 3% yearly.

Try this idea! Rather than presenting a pet as a gift (and having to find a place and a way to keep it a secret) why not just pay the adoption fee at a shelter and present the recipient with a stuffed pet and a note informing them where they can go look for a new fur family member on their own! This way, the person or people can get prepared for their new family member in advance. They can buy the beds and bowls and collars and leashes… and of course, the toys. Then they can go to the shelter and interact with the animals and select the one that’s right for them!

Have you received a pet as a gift or are thinking of giving one to someone during the holidays? Share your thoughts and questions with us in the comment section below!

The holidays are a special time for everyone, even for our fur babies. The lights, the sparkles, the smells of yummy things. Like the song says: “It’s the most wonderful time of the year.” However, Christmas can also be one of the most dangerous times for your pets. So the friendly folks at the Humane Society of the Nature Coast would like to offer these six tips to keep your fur babies safe this Christmas.

1) The Christmas Tree

With all those lights and dangley-sparkley things, a Christmas Tree can be a source of curiosity, excitement and danger for your fur babies. Dogs and cats are notorious for using ornaments as toys, chewing on light strands and trying to jump onto — or even into – a Christmas Tree.

• Make sure you anchor your tree with a secure, stable tree stand, and check the bolts holding the tree to the stand daily to make sure they remain tight to hold the tree in place.
• Make sure the ornaments on the lower part of the tree are pet friendly (more on that later). Avoid edible ornaments (candy canes, popcorn/cranberry strands, gingerbread cookies, etc.) and place any ornaments that look like pet toys higher on the tree to avoid temptation.
• Tinsel is incredibly dangerous to both dogs and cats. While the animal starts out playing with the shiny tinsel, which shimmers and moves with the lightest touch, this exploration inevitably involves the mouth. For some, it will head down the “wrong pipe”—causing them to choke and cough.  With luck, they will cough it up and out, eliminating the problem. But if the tinsel is actually swallowed it can lodge in the throat and cut off the air supply. If it heads all the way down into the intestinal tract, it can all sorts of internal problems.
• Make sure light strands and electrical cords are secure and out of the tempting view of your pets. Consider using a protective covering such as The Chewsafe cord protector or the CritterCord to prevent the teeth of curious or mischievous pets from sinking in.
• Fur Parents who prefer fresh cut Christmas Trees need to ensure that the water reservoir of the tree stand is covered to make sure your fur babies don’t use it for a water bowl. As the tree hydrates, it can release toxic sap into the water trough, which will smell tasty to your pets. Many fresh trees are also preserved with pesticides and fertilizer water additives, including aspirin. Aspirin can be fatal for cats because they lack a necessary protein in their livers to break down the drug. While veterinarians occasionally prescribe aspirin for dogs to treat various conditions, too much can prove deadly.

2) Ornaments

While ornaments are beautiful, they can pose potential choking or cutting hazards for your curious fur babes so it’s important to keep your fur babies safe this Christmas. Cats and dogs are inherently curious and the first thing on their minds when they see something new is… “what does that taste like?” Ornaments they chew on can break and the swallowed parts can wind up blocking – or even cutting – the throat, the stomach or the intestinal tract. Glass ornaments can be particularly dangerous if they fall – or are batted – from the tree and break, they can cut your pets mouth, their paws or even somewhere internally if swallowed.

3) Poisonous Plants

Another way to keep your fur babies safe this Christmas is to pay attention to the plants you have in the house during the holidays. Poinsettia, holly, mistletoe are popular and quite beautiful Christmas plants. However, they can be dangerous to your pet’s health if ingested.

The poinsettia flower is typically only toxic when ingested in large quantities, so its reputation as the most dangerous Christmas plant is somewhat undeserved. That said, the milky white sap of the poinsettia tends to cause diarrhea, excessive drooling, and vomiting.

English and Asian varieties of the holly plant contain toxic saponins,  which can cause serious gastrointestinal distress when eaten.

The viscotoxins in mistletoe are nothing to kiss over; eating the leaves or berries of this common Christmas plant can cause stomach upset and a slowed heartbeat.

Christmas bouquets and floral arrangements that contain lilies are very hazardous to pets, especially cats. All it takes is a few bites of a lily plant to cause potentially fatal kidney failure in felines.

If your pet ingests pine needles, they could cause serious gastrointestinal problems. Ingesting them can cause vomiting and depression. The tree needles are capable of triggering digestive blocks and puncturing the intestines. Fake Christmas tree needles are just as dangerous as a chocking hazard or something to cause an intestinal blockage. Pine cones can cut your pets mouth or become lodged in their throats. They can also cause intestinal blockages. Fallen dried Christmas Tree needles can stick into your pets paws and mouth like a painful splinter, which could become infected.

4) Stockings, Wrapped Gifts and Candy Bowls

Wrapped gifts can be so beautiful… and tempting for any pet looking for a new chew toy. So it’s important to make sure these items are out of reach to keep your fur babies safe this Christmas. Believe it or not, chlorine bleach and toxic dyes are sometimes used to create those colorful patterns on wrapping paper. Gift-wrapping involves more than just paper and boxes, though. Tape, ribbons and bows can be chewed and swallowed by an unsupervised pet, which can lead to intestinal blockages and rupture.

Additional caution should be taken to make sure batteries are unavailable as chew toys. A ruptured battery can cause chemical burns and threaten your pet’s life.

Stocking stuffers can pose a health hazard for your fur babies as well. Small toys and candies can become choking hazards or a bowel blockage. Chocolate can be deadly if consumed in large enough quantities.

5) Candles

Who doesn’t enjoy the festive glow of a candle, especially during the holidays? But an unguarded open flame can become a fire hazard, particularly when you have pets. Cat’s a notorious for climbing to high places and an open candle flame can easily burn your cat as they don’t always pay attention to where their tails are. Cats are also known for pushing everything they can find from a horizontal surface. How many times have you seen a coffee table cleared of items by the swoosh of a happy dog’s tail? Candles can be knocked over. Nearby decorations can be bumped and batted toward the flame and catch fire and those can fall into other flammable things and the next thing you know, chestnuts won’t be the only thing roasting in an open fire.

Make sure you are aware of where burning candles are sitting and that your pets aren’t in the area.

1) BE PREPARED!

Have your veterinarian’s phone number and the number of an emergency veterinarian on hand and know the location of the one closest to you, particularly those that are open after hours!

The 24-hour ASPCA emergency poison hotline at 1-888-426-4435 if you have any concerns about potentially harmful substances ingested by your pet. Specialists are available to aid you every day of the year, including Christmas.

What steps are you taking to keep your pets safe this Christmas? Do you have any other tips for pet parents? Let us know in the comments below!

While COVID 19 has rattled the lives of everyone on the planet, the coronavirus affects furry lives, too. As some people are reaching the end of their ability to withstand the financial burdens caused by the virus in their own lives, a growing number of family pets are being surrendered to shelters or simply abandoned on the streets.

Here at the Humane Society of the Nature Coast, we receive numerous calls every day from people wanting to surrender their pets or to ask where to take those they have found abandoned in their neighborhoods. Many say they have already called all the other shelters and say they are being told the same thing: “We have no more room.”

As many states are reporting an uptick in the number of COVID 19 cases, the potential for an even greater surge in surrenders and abandonment has many shelters moving into crisis mode.

In April, the HSNC issued an emergency plea for donations on our Facebook page. We were overwhelmed with new animals and needed help to provide food for all of them and to ensure that we could provide emergency medical treatments for some of our more critical intakes. That plea was met with an awe-inspiring response from our community. Not only did those donations make it possible for us to feed and care for the flood of cats and dogs pouring into our shelter it enabled us to keep our Little Pet Pantry stocked with food to help the growing number of pet owners in our community who are struggling to keep their beloved pets as part of the family. Unfortunately, as the devastating effects of this pandemic wear on, we must ask for your help again.

The Humane Society of the Nature Coast (HSNC) has taken in over 500 surrenders and abandoned animals since May alone. Many have been surrendered by people who have lost their jobs, Others surrender their beloved family pet because they’ve been evicted from their homes and are living out of their cars. It’s heartbreaking.

Some of the animals are delivered to our arms on an emergency basis. Some are emaciated. Some arrive with broken bones. Still others have medical conditions, which require emergency veterinary care. All of them are terrified.

We have seen a spike in the surrender of “special needs” animals, pets who have medical conditions that pose an additional expense to the owner, which they can no longer bear. These are the heartbreaking realities we must find a way to deal with every day. We are up to the challenge. We will never give up the fight to save these precious animals. But we can’t do it without you.

Right now, we are in desperate need of cat litter, Purina One cat/dog/puppy/kitten food, soft treats and toys. Yes… toys. Although it might seem like a trivial thing to ask for. But when they suddenly find themselves in a strange place surrounded by unfamiliar faces, toys really do provide them a source of distraction and comfort.

Of course, monetary donations are always welcomed. These dollars help us provide the medical care that many of these surrendered or abandoned animals need before we can offer them for adoption.

Then again, the ultimate gift you could offer to one of our little fur-babies would be the one thing we cannot give them… A new furever home.

Imagine going to a salon and asking to have your nails trimmed, and they take out a large pair of clippers and cut your nail off at the knuckle. This is the horrifying truth about declawing your cat.

As described by Cats International, “the term ‘declawing’ makes people think only the claw is removed, but a more appropriate description would be amputation/mutilation.

Declawing fits the dictionary definition of mutilation to a tee.  Words such as deform, disfigure, disjoint, and dismember all apply to this surgery. It doesn’t matter how the procedure is preformed, scapula, guillotine or laser. The end result is the same “EXCORIATING PAIN.” This is the barbaric reality of declawing your cat.

“Sensory and motor nerves in the cat’s paw are cut, damaged, and destroyed. Recovery from the surgery is a slow and a painful process. The pain from declawing is life-long and normal cat behaviors are forever gone.  This procedure keeps our cats from enjoying pain free things such as walking, running, springing, climbing, and stretching. This crippling  procedure keeps our cats from a life of fun energetic normal cat behavior.”

Soft Paws — Soft Paws are an excellent alternative to declawing. They are easy to apply at home, and cats and their owners love them. They are completely safe and humane and can be used on cats of all ages. Soft Paws are vinyl nail caps that are glued on to your cat’s existing nails. They look like a cat’s nail, only hollow. They are easy to apply and cats tolerate them extremely well. I have personally used this product and can say, without a doubt, they are very effective… and pretty!!!

So what are the alternatives to this horrible act of mutilation? There are four options to choose from, which are known to be successful.

Feliway — Have you seen cats rubbing their cheeks on an object? Because cats are territorial, they are compelled to mark their territory. When they are rubbing their faces on things, they are doing just that. Scratching is another way cats mark their territory. Not only does scratching provide a visual marking of the territory (the shredded material) but also, cats have scent glands on the bottom of their paw pads, which deposit a scent discernible only by other cats. Think of it as their “feel good” pheromone. Feliway is a synthetic version of your cat’s facial pheromone. Spraying Feliway on objects you do not want your cat to scratch effectively deposits this feel good pheromone so your cat doesn’t feel the need to scratch the object.

Double-Sided Tape — Products such as Pioneer Pet Sticky Paws on a Roll Cat Deterrent is sticky on both sides. Simply apply it to the objects you would prefer your cat not scratch on, and his natural aversion to stickiness will put an end to the offending behavior. The tape works as an aversion tool, but you still need to provide a place for kitty to scratch — such as a scratching post.

Cat Scratching Posts — Cats will always scratch, it is in their nature. The key is to provide your cat with a post that he/she prefers over your furniture.

Height. The post needs to be tall enough for your cat to stretch and extend in order to get a full and satisfying scratch. The picture to the right shows a good example of a cat getting a “full and satisfying” stretch.

The post must be stable. If it wobbles, your cat won’t like it, and if it topples over your cat won’t want to get near it again.

The best material for cat scratching posts is sisal fabric. Not sisal rope, but sisal fabric. This woven material provides great texture for shredding — which cats love to do when scratching, and it feels good on their paws. When a cat scratches the sisal material, he can drag his claws down this satisfying material over and over in a continuous motion. In contrast, sisal rope creates an interrupted scratch — scratch, bump, scratch, bump, scratch, bump. Not very satisfying.

There are 28 countries in which declawing cats is either illegal or considered extremely inhumane and only performed under extreme circumstances.

In July of 2019, New York became the first state in America to make declawing illegal.

Although the Humane Society of the Nature Coast has accepted the surrender of cats that have been subjected to this barbaric practice, we will refuse to allow ANYONE to adopt a cat from our shelter who plans on having it declawed.

So… Imagine going to a salon and asking to have your nails trimmed, and they take out a large pair of clippers and cut your nail off at the knuckle. This is the horrifying truth about declawing your cat.

Ellie was born in Miami, Florida. Because her dad was Cuban and her mother was born in Panama, she grew up speaking Spanish and had to learn English as a second language. This was the first in many challenges for Ellie. After her father left, her mother, Isabel, packed up their belongings, took a deep breath and moved with her daughter to Spring Hill. She wanted “a fresh start,” to find a quiet place in a more rural area where she could regroup… and breathe. She needed to regain her footing and to start laying a new, stable foundation upon which she and her daughter could rebuild their lives.

As Ellie grew, she became quite a creative child, gravitating toward art and all things beautiful.  Not long after, Ellie’s mother noticed that her daughter had a somewhat unique gift. She could talk to animals… and they would listen. In fact, Ellie said she has always felt a bit like Dr. Dolittle.

“I’ve always loved animals,” Ellie shared. “I was a bit of a troublemaker because I was always bringing them home.”

“I even hid a baby duck in the guest bathroom,” she confessed.

Ellie always dreamed of working with animals, and that dream came to fruition on Dec. 30, 2018. It was the day she received the call. She had been hired to work at the Humane Society of the Nature Coast (HSNC).

“It was three weeks after my interview,” Ellie recalled. “I didn’t think I got it. But then they called! I was so happy I was jumping up and down.”

As an Animal Care Technician, Ellie spends her days doing just that: Caring for the Animals. Whether it’s feeding, walking or simply sitting on the ground with them for a long chat and a snuggle, Ellie gives each animal the love and attention they need. How does she know what they need? Well, they tell her, of course. Yes, Ellie Dolittle talks to the animals.

While watching her work with the furry residents of HSNC, you can almost hear the lyrics to the Dr. DoLittle song about talking to animals playing in your head…

“And if you just stop and think of it, ain’t no doubt of it, I’m gonna win a place in history. If I could walk with the animals, talk with the animals, grunt and squeak and squawk with the animals. And they could squeak, and squawk, and speak, and talk to me!”

To observe Ellie interacting with the animals is incredibly heartwarming. They just melt into her arms. To improve the adoptability of the dogs, she took it upon herself to begin teaching the dogs the most adorable tricks! Kisses, playing dead, high fives and tens (or would that be fours and eights?). They thrive in her attention. You can see it in their faces. They want so much to make her happy.

“I post the videos to make people laugh,” Ellie confessed. “I love making people laugh.”

Ask her to describe her best day at HSNC and Ellie will tell you about the day a beautiful dog named Shadow was adopted. She had become quite fond to Shadow and they quickly developed a deep, mutual bond.

“Shadow was a playful goof-ball,” Ellie remembers fondly of the spirited and somewhat hyperactive pup. But on the day he was adopted, as Shadow came to her for the last time, Ellie said “he stood and let me hug him for the longest time. It was the calmest I had ever seen him.”

It was as if he was saying “thank you, and telling her everything was going to be okay. He was going “home.”

“That’s the best part of being here (at HSNC),” Ellie shared. “It’s like another home to me. We’re like a family. We have our moments, yes. But we are always there for each other. We aren’t just there to feed animals and clean up the poop. We are there to help each other.”

“I had a rough childhood,” Ellie confessed. “My mom did her best for me and the people at HSNC are like my second family.”

Then she shared a message to her coworkers.

“Thank you all,” she added, “for being the family I always wanted.”

It was the great play-write, William Shakespeare, who posed the question: “What’s in a name?” For those willing and brave enough to truly seek an answer to that question, you will sometimes discover some surprising and deeply personal insights.

On the day she was born, the self-described Ellie Dolittle’s mother named her daughter “Elisa.”

As described by her Numerology Soul/Urge Number (6) — “People with this name have a deep inner desire for a stable, loving family or community, and a need to work with others and to be appreciated.”

Imagine that.

No doubt, the 4^th of July is a special occasion in America. Who doesn’t enjoy gathering with fellow family and friends to celebrate our independence? The pick-nicks, the beach parties, the Bar-B-Ques. Add some fireworks and you’ve got yourself a party. Dogs and fireworks, however, are a completely different story.

While most people enjoy a good fireworks display, the experience of fireworks is much different for dogs, more so than natural loud noises, like thunder. While the sound of thunder can come from a distance, or even right above you, fireworks are closer to the ground, causing the sound to literally bounce back upward. The sound is also more intense and the explosions are accompanied by brilliant flashes of light and the smell of burning sulfur. Remember, dogs experience the world through their senses — nose, eyes, ears.

It is natural for dogs to be afraid of loud noises. The sounds trigger their nervous systems, and they can become anxious or afraid. Running away from the noise is a survival instinct. In fact. more pets go missing on the 4^th of July than on any other day of the year. To them, a typical Fourth of July celebration can be overwhelming. Dogs and fireworks are not always a celebratory combination.

Here are some tips to help keep your dog safe and calm during 4^th of July celebrations.

If you have a dog, making sure your fur baby feels safe is part of your commitment. Unlike in the past, where one had to go to location where fireworks displays were held, more people are starting to provide their own 4^th of July fireworks displays right in their own neighborhoods. Because of this, it’s becoming more difficult to find a place where you and your dogs won’t be surrounded by the sounds and flashes of exploding fireworks.

DO NOT LEAVE YOUR DOG ALONE!

If at all possible, stay home with your dog on the 4^th of July. If not, make sure someone else is there, someone you trust and someone they are familiar with and feel safe around will be there to comfort them should the evenings celebrations get to be too intense for them.

The one thing to completely avoid? Acting frantic when they get scared. Dogs can sense when you are feeling anxious. If you are saying, “It’s OK, it’s OK, it’s OK” in a higher-than-average pitch, your dog may think something is very wrong. Remain calm, speak in a low, soothing voice and provide lots of cuddles to reassure your canine companion.

Keep Your Dog Away From Fireworks

Unless you already know your dog is not afraid of fireworks, DO NOT take your dogs to fireworks shows, and DO NOT leave them outside during fireworks. Keeping your dog inside in the evening on the Fourth of July is the best idea, especially if you fear they might not react well.

Make Sure Your Pet Has Proper ID

Even if you are staying home and intend to keep close company with your dog, make sure your dog has it’s collar on and that all of the information on your pet’s collar is current. The best way to better ensure that you will be able to relocate your dog if it runs off is to make sure your dog is microchipped and/or has a GPS device.

Create a Safe Space For Your Dog

A day or so before the 4^th of July, prepare a cozy area where your dog will feel comfortable. Remember, dogs are den animals. The best place to create a safe space for them would be in an interior room, away from closets – such as a closet — where outside noise will be most muffled.

Cover a crate with multiple quilts or blankets to create a little cave for them, and make sure to provide your pup with familiar toys and treats to help keep them distracted.

Play White Noise

Turn on the television or play some music to help mask the sounds of the fireworks. There’s even some music — like “Through A Dog’s Ear” or “Clam My Dog” — that has been proven to have calming effects for dogs. Over at the Humane Society of the Nature Coast, music is played in the cat cottage to keep the kitties calm and dogs are placed in foster homes so they can be in the company of caring people.

Go for a Long Walk Before the Fireworks Start

Before it starts getting dark, take your dog on a nice, long walk. Because some people get a little eager to start their fireworks celebrations, you’ll want to head out before the sun starts to set and make sure your dog is secure on the leash, just in case.

Try a Calming Wrap

Calming wraps and vests — such as a “ThunderShirt” or “CalmingCoat” — apply light, constant pressure, which many dogs find to be soothing and calming.

Talk to Your Vet

If your dog has already displayed fretfulness during fireworks or thunderstorms and that anxiety is severe, consider booking an appointment with your vet so you can discuss a medication that could help keep them calm. However, if you are not comfortable providing your dog with pharmaceuticals, more and more pet parents are turning to an all-natural alternative, Cannabidiol oil (better known as CBD oil), to help relieve their anxiety and stress.

While the 4th of July is a cause for celebration, it’s also a day when your dog may need your comfort and reassurance more than usual.

If you have any questions or thoughts to share, feel free to enter them in the comments section below!