IAQ Blog

Moving Forward in the Sea of “Green”

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 13:10:58 +0000

The current “green” trend in the indoor environmental industry is reminiscent of a similarly marketed initiative at the onset of this new millennium. That gold rush, or more aptly stated, “mold rush”, saw everybody and their brother flood the market with the next great solution to the “problem”. More often than not, those ballyhooed products and services fell short of delivering what was promised, and consumers were left holding the bag when the purported solutions ultimately created more problems.

The Return of the Monster from the Green Lagoon

Now Bob, you might say, how can you compare mold and green buildings? Aside from the obvious pun there, mold services are typically reactive in nature, and green construction is supposed to be proactive, right? The eerie similarity is not the “what” but more the “how” in what we are seeing in the offerings that are appearing across the industry. Pick up a trade journal, look online, watch TV—green this, green that, green, green, GREEN ! In fact, everywhere you turn it seems someone is hawking the next “green” product or service you should be buying. I know I’m sounding a little cynical here, but I just can’t get past some of the pseudo green hype. The marketing strategy seems too familiar.

This new wave of green ads is a lot like all the mold ads we began to see in trade magazines near the end of 2000. That wave reached overload after a couple of years when it washed over into mainstream marketing to the general public. I’m not saying this is all bad, mind you…elevating consumer awareness and offering solutions to real problems can be a valuable, almost noble service! The qualifier here is whether the provider is being responsible with their marketing and offerings. The mold testing & remediation industry became fraught with far too many snake oil salesmen using scare tactics to force sales of (at best) questionable products and services. Clients often never got what they thought they paid for, and reputable industry practitioners suffered the effects of the dark side’s price gouging and irresponsibility.

Now we see a green marketing tsunami flooding the present day marketplace in the same fashion as the 2000 Mold Rush, and I feel compelled to ask, how green IS the green they’re selling?

The Lighter Shade of Pale (Green)

I probably need clarify my feelings on this issue, in case you’re getting the wrong impression about my intent. I am totally in favor of “greening” our world—in fact, I applaud it! As a society and planet, we simply cannot continue down this road of waste and environmental destruction for much longer, at least not without the planet giving us an involuntary evolutionary realignment. We owe it to our future generations to change the way we use (and abuse) all our natural resources. I would have to say I’m a cynical realist that leans more toward “tree hugger” than capitalist. After over 18 years in the indoor environmental consulting and services business, in 2008 we added a host of energy performance and green consulting services to our offerings. I recycle at home and in my business, have installed CFL or LED lights everywhere I can, and try to implement as many energy saving measures in my own life as possible. I do drive an SUV some of the time still since I live in one of the snowiest cities in America! OK, so now you have my position—not perfect, but certainly aware and trying.

In the world of green practices, as with most everything in life (with exceptions for death and pregnancy), there are varying degrees, or in this case, shades. When you’re considering the prospects of offering or utilizing a green product or service, you need to ask the question, “Just how green is it?” Sustainability, environmental, social and economic impacts, (and, hey does it even work?) need to be evaluated to be able to truthfully assign it a number on the green color chart. I’m a realist here…even pale green is better than doomsday black!

The U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) is an organization that has grown exponentially in recent years, and has become a leading national voice for sustainability. One of their principals is the “Triple Win”, a concept that for a green initiative to be successful, the client, the provider, and the environment all have to benefit. A simple concept perhaps, but it really makes perfect sense. Just do the right thing. If you can provide a valuable service at a fair price, that is favorable to sustaining our environment, you should be able to turn a profit.

Waiting for the Green Light

If you’re involved with the indoor environmental industry, you should have jumped on the green bandwagon awhile ago. Of course, it’s not too late to do so. Indoor environmental quality is a key component to developing a successful green building plan. You can be a part of this new industry wave, or be swept over by it—the choice is yours.

My session at the 2012 IAQA Conference will highlight some of the key areas of interest and concern for successfully balancing green services/products/practices in the building environment. I look forward to seeing some of you at the presentation next month in Las Vegas!

Bob moderates the new LinkedIn group, "The Great INDOORS". Topics include indoor environmental issues and building performance with industry experts and end users like real estate, healthcare and facilities management professionals, as well as individual consumers with an interest. Join the discussion today!

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

Check out Bob's FREE consumer mold educational webinar on Facebook at: http://on.fb.me/zArtO6

Welcome to The Great INDOORS Blog Again!

Sun, 12 Feb 2012 17:46:11 +0000

(The debut post from 8/1/2010)

Does the world really need another blog?
I really did ask myself that question, all joking aside. The only way I could say “Yes” to that was if it was something that was different—timely and informative, sure, but with a bit of an edge that would push the envelope on indoor environmental topics. That said, I don’t have any plans to play it safe here, so to the critics, “Sharpen your pencils,” and all the indoor environmental & building performance industry sacred cows, “Start getting nervous!” Welcome to The Great INDOORS…

I’ve spent the past 24 years dealing with indoor environmental issues via the school of hard knocks, or as an elder colleague of mine told me back in 1990, “You gotta buy your education, young man.” What he forgot to mention is that you need to keep buying it. The industry continues to change, as does the world we live in. Think you know all the answers, embrace the status quo, dig your heels in, remain stagnant, and you too will be left behind. Playing it safe typically ensures that you will never offend anybody. It also pretty much ensures that you’ll be droned-out by the din. My aim is to provoke thought and discussion on this blog. I’m not planning on any safety nets.

So I’m issuing a challenge to my readers in this inaugural post: Like or dislike, agree or disagree with my points and opinions. But either way, join in on the discussions. Post your thoughts and comments and become part of what I have a feeling is going to be a little like Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride!

Why call it “The Great Indoors”?
You’ve likely heard it all before, but it bears repeating. We’ve gotten to the point where we spend almost 80% of our time indoors. In the past 40 or so years we’ve changed the way we build these indoor habitats in a “progressive” attempt to expedite the construction process to minimize initial costs. Energy conservation is a steadily growing concern which dictates that we build tighter, but not (necessarily) smarter. Manufactured building components like wood composites and interior finishes have offered savings, but helped to introduce a host issues like chemical off-gassing and increased susceptibility to mold growth indoors.

If we’re going to spend most of our time there, we need to make it the great indoors! Of course one could argue that our wounded economy necessitates control of “first costs” in all construction projects, but we should no longer let that be the primary focus. We need to look at total building life-cycle costs, rather than choose what’s cheap today without ever considering 20, 30, or more years down the line. We need to consider the quality of the indoor environments we are creating. And we need to greatly reduce the amount of energy we waste to heat and cool our buildings. It’s not going to be an easy endeavor, but the quality of our lives and the future of our world really does depend on it.

Coming Soon to a Blog Near You

Every week we field calls at my office about mold, radon, lead paint, moisture problems, saving energy, green buildings and a ton of other issues. There seems to be an endless supply of questions from homeowners to facility managers about indoor environmental stuff. My guess is that reader comments from The Great INDOORS Blog will spur on a host of additional topics. Join me for the wild ride…

Flash Forward to February, 2012

After 18 months since its debut, The Great INDOORS Blog has gained a steady group of followers. I launched The Great INDOORS Discussion Group on Linked In back in December 2011 to promote an active dialogue between indoor environmental industry experts, building professionals and consumers. With nearly 200 members in its first two months, this group is rapidly becoming one of the industry's leading discussion hubs. Check it out today at: http://www.linkedin.com/groups?about=&gid=4215693&trk=anet_ug_grppro, and become part of the group!

On March 1, 2012, I will begin hosting a new weekly online video show called, "Saving The Great INDOORS" on Blip.TV. Informative, educational and entertaining content covering indoor environmental and building performance topics to offer consumers a place to learn more about IAQ, mold, radon, and more! Stay tuned for more details!

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

Check out Bob's FREE consumer mold educational webinar on Facebook at: http://on.fb.me/zArtO6

Attic Mold: The Real Estate Deal Killer? Part 2

Wed, 08 Feb 2012 11:50:02 +0000

Last week I stressed that mold was a symptom of another problem. That “problem” is (of course), moisture. To correct a typical mold situation, you need to correct the underlying moisture issue(s) that led to it. Failure to address the moisture source as part of the remedial efforts will generally produce undesirable results and the mold growth will often reoccur.

I had some interesting reactions to part one of this blog which posted on numerous discussion groups—as always, there seems to be varied schools of thought regarding indoor mold. I was reminded that my article had focused on a “Northern” perspective by discussing attic mold. I have to admit that attic mold is mostly a problem found in colder climates. The reader commented that I should just rename the post, “Mold: The Real Estate Deal Killer”, instead. Point taken. Mold in other portions of a property can cause just as much unrest for a sale, too.

So, how do we address mold growth indoors? Assuming the moisture source(s) was/were properly identified and resolved, some remediation efforts will likely be necessary. Will professional assistance be required to correct the problem? There’s no easy answer to that one. Some key considerations when deciding if professional help (i.e. indoor environmental consultants, remediation contractors, lawyers, guns and money…) are warranted:

What type of property is this? (home, office, public area, etc.)

Where is the mold growth located?

How much mold is there? (areas affected, types of surfaces, etc.)

Is the current mold condition adversely affecting the occupants?

There was significant debate in the various discussion groups over which removal method was the best in an attic environment? Blasting with dry ice, baking soda, or another aggregate, versus chemical cleaning agents like hydrogen peroxide, or (gasp) bleach! Proponents of each cited their benefits over the others, but in the end, only one thing was apparent. There is no one right way to remediate mold.

Whatever method you choose, however, needs to follow some basic parameters. You can opt for the biblical approach:

From Leviticus Chapter 14, verses 33-47 - On the seventh day the priest shall return to inspect the house. If the mildew has spread on the walls, he is to order that the contaminated stones be torn out and thrown into an unclean place outside the town…

Or, I’ve been successful with the following principles:

From Bob, CMRS Training Module 7, 2000-present - The objective of any microbial remediation procedure is to eliminate the effects of the contamination on building occupants, contents, and structural materials, in such a fashion as to correct the problem and not subject them to further potential harm. There is no one right method…

Get ready to light up the preverbal internet “switchboard” with your comments everybody, ‘cause I’m going there now!

Every mold remediation needs indoor environmental engineering controls. Every worker needs personal protective equipment (PPE). Every project needs Design, Planning & Quality Control/Verification. The extent of the aforementioned is dependent on the earlier questions I posed.

Small projects may only require basic containment and control procedures. 3^rd party Design & Verification (while required in a few states) is a nice concept, but doesn’t always make economic sense for the end user, especially with minor projects. A “3^rd” party doesn’t necessarily ensure quality or unbiased honesty, despite what you’d like to believe, Virginia. Last time I checked, there wasn’t an industry certification or a state license for integrity. Bad people circumvent the rules, lie, cheat and steal. Good people don’t. Work with good people.

Mold remediation workers always need respiratory protection. And, not just N-95 dust masks like all the cognizant authorities continue to regurgitate in their inbred industry documents—P-100, HEPA-filtered masks! Sealed eye protection, gloves, and disposable hooded coveralls should also be part of the PPE package.

Final verification begins with a visual cleanliness inspection of the work area. It needs to pass the “white glove test” before anyone starts performing a bunch of expensive sampling procedures. Surface sampling of representative areas to determine the presence or (hopefully) absence of mold growth/mold particulate deposition is a good idea, since Superman vision is hard to come by, and these are micro-organisms. Such surface verification could include tape lifts, culture swabs, PCR, Mycometer, ATP, etc. Air testing/sampling (laser particle counts, spore traps, culture samples, etc.) are a potential tool to evaluate post-project effectiveness, as well. In the case of any sampling protocols, the rules on what constitutes passing or failing need to be clearly defined for all parties involved prior to the commencement of the project, to avoid problems in the end.

OK, this should be enough editorial to spark a bit of online controversy and ignite some heated discussion, so my work is probably done here…for now!

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

Check out Bob's FREE consumer mold educational webinar on Facebook at: http://on.fb.me/zArtO6

Attic Mold: The Real Estate Deal Killer?

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 10:16:54 +0000

I can’t even begin to tell you how many times we’ve gotten frantic phone calls from worried sellers and agents that begin with, “The buyer’s home inspector found mold in the attic…” Few things can put the brakes on a real estate transaction faster than an attic full of insidious mold growth. There are some key points to consider here beyond the obvious question of. “How much is THIS going to cost?”

First, and perhaps most importantly, how did the mold end up growing there? Remember, unconditioned attics are typically ventilated to the outdoors by means of gable vents, or a combination of soffit and ridge vents, with the insulation on the floor of the attic (Hot decks, AKA ones with the insulation applied to the underside of the roof deck are a somewhat different animal, and not part of this discussion). The objective is to let the unconditioned attic equalize with the outdoors, allowing heat to dissipate rather than building up under the roof deck. This means a ventilated attic is effectively an outdoor space with a roof, so mold spores that are flying around outside on a given day are also likely flying around in the attics, too. Which answers the second question, where did the mold spores come from?

So, in reality most unconditioned attics have an ongoing source of mold spores and ample organic material to serve as a nutrient source. If that’s the case, why isn’t EVERY attic moldy? Quite simply, it all revolves around moisture. Get the attic space damp, and you’ll likely get mold.

In northern climates, it would be ideal for the temperature of the roof deck to remain the same as the outdoor temperature during winter months. This would eliminate excessive snow melt and refreeze at the eves, which can result in ice damming. Of course, this is often exactly what does happen in many cases, with ice dams leading to water damage and subsequent mold problems.

Ask most roofers, and they will tell you that attic mold is the result of under ventilation. While that can be a problem, under ventilation is usually not the root cause of an attic mold condition. At the top of the list has to be improperly vented bathroom exhaust fans. As difficult as it is to believe, we still see builders and remodelers venting bath fans into attic spaces! Venting the exhaust into the attic can create serious moisture in the space, which can lead to mold, as well as deterioration of the roof sheathing.

Another less obvious attic moisture source is air leakage from the conditioned space. Open penetrations from plumbing, electrical and HVAC, open top plates, and leaky access doors and hatches can all passage of moist occupant air into unconditioned spaces. Couple that with possible diffusion through surfaces with improper vapor barriers, and you can get a sufficient amount of resident attic moisture to start an involuntary terrarium in an attic. An interesting point here is that is a building has substantial air leakage between the condition space and the attic, adding more attic ventilation may serve to worsen the moisture problem by effectively pulling more moist air into the space.

These types of leakage problems can usually be identified via a blower door leakage test in conjunction with a thermal IR camera and tracer smoke. Pinpoint the major leak points, air seal them, and the moisture problem in the attic will often be corrected.

That still leaves the already identified attic mold. What do you do with that? To be continued in part 2!

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

Check out Bob's FREE consumer mold educational webinar on Facebook at: http://on.fb.me/zArtO6

The Times They Are A-Changin'...Again!

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 07:57:47 +0000

At the risk of running off from my usual topics on The Great Indoors Blog, I feel compelled to spend a few minutes talking about our online and technology addictions. OK, so I have to admit I'm one of the more guilty ones with the aforementioned. It's easy to be drawn into the allure of "instant" information, community, and entertainment. Never before has access these things been more readily available. Last week's showdown with congress over the so-called internet anti-piracy legislation was a classic examle of defending our information and mis-information freedom, which I personally applaude. This event showed how new age information technology can almost instantly rally people together for a cause. It is, indeed, a VERY powerful tool.

I really don't know if this communication technology paradigm shift is all for the better, though. After all, online information is fundamentally unfiltered, a mix of the good, the bad, and the ugly. As Dorothy said over 70 years ago, "I don't think we're in Kansas anymore, Toto." The status quo, it is a-changin'...

In the 1980s, personal computers with printers (remember those noisy dot matrix ones?) and fax machines became the state-of-the-art for "instant communication! No longer did we have to use a typewriter and put a stamp on an envelope to transmit some info--Just type it, print it, AND FAX it anywhere with a phone call. And speaking of phone calls, in 1986 I got me one of those cellular "portable" bag phones. It was SO handy! Why, at a mere 3 pounds you could take it anywhere with it's convenient carrying handle. Calls could get a little pricey at 45 cents a minute, though!

I was working for a firm that sold personal computer systems to small businesses in 1984, and one of my co-worker geeks had me come over to his work area to check something REALLY cool out. He had his 8-bit IBM PC with a monochrome monitor, this R2D2-sounding thing called a modem, and he was sending what he called an "e-mail" to some dude across the country. After 5-10 minutes, he got a reply typed back. He told me there was this whole network of computers linked together in a virtual community on the "World Wide Web". He was SO excited! "Really Ethan, the WWW?", I thought. Why would anyone in the real world want anything to do with this stupidity? After all, I already had the ability to communicate with anyone, anytime, on my bag phone.

The 1990s gave us the actual rise of the internet (even though Al Gore or my buddy Ethan had invented it long before then, LOL). Web sites filled with information, PCs now affordable at less than $2000, and cell phones now were about the size of a small block of cheese and could even be held in your hand. Just don't break that damn retractable antenna off or the thing won't work! The prophets of doom fore-casted that our entire civilization would come crashing down as we partied at the end of 1999--thanks to computer algorithms' inabilities to adapt from 1900s to 2000. Um, it didn't. And in the new millennium, anyone who was "anyone" would have a cell phone.

Fast forward to 2012. Old media forms are dying like the dinosaurs (When Is the last time you bought a newspaper?). TV ads gets forwarded over with digital/on demand features, radio ads are unnecessary with MP3 players and online virtual radio stations like Pandora. Even static web sites are passé now--if they don't interact with the user, the user bounces.

Everyone, and I mean EVERYONE has a cell phone. And not just a cell phone, a digital "smart" phone! You can now make video phone calls from your hand--for FREE? In fact, Google estimates that over 40% of online connectivity on their searches originates from mobile devices. By the end of this year, 85+% of the cell phones in the U.S will be smart phones with connection to the internet. Not into the new Social Media thing? That's OK. Someone's got to fall into this era's "tar pits" to fuel the future. Evolution or extinction--there's always options for you. The times they are a-changin'...again.

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

Check out Bob's FREE consumer mold educational webinar on Facebook at: http://on.fb.me/zArtO6

The Fungus Among Us

Wed, 18 Jan 2012 13:05:35 +0000

Aside from the real concerns about adverse health effects from exposure to mold indoors, there is the issue of property loss, which can be staggering. Consider the loss of property, either at home or in a commercial space and its contents. Add to that the cost of relocating for the time it takes to successfully assess, remediate, reconstruct and refurbish all the damaged property, and it’s clear why some owners have had to walk away from their properties, taking huge losses.

Insurance companies are refusing to pay for remediation, and in some cases not issuing policies at all, due to huge settlements and judgments against them. Even if you can pay to fix the problem, don’t forget the stigma associated with a property that has had a significant microbial loss — potential buyers and lenders aren’t enthusiastic about a moldy building.

It's the Moisture, Stupid!

Spores are everywhere, in building materials, in our furnishings, on indoor surfaces, and even in the air. Our dwellings and their contents are potential food sources for these microbes because they are largely comprised of organic materials. Fungi and bacteria do not grow in the air; they grow on environmental surfaces. These are universal truths. Why then, you may ask, do only some buildings become infested with mold or other microbial contaminants? The obvious answer is, of course, moisture. Keep your indoor environment dry, and these microorganisms cannot germinate and grow. Attempt to clean up a microbial problem and neglect an underlying moisture problem that promoted the growth, and (in time) your best efforts will fail.

The obvious moisture problem in a building occurs as a result of a sudden water episode, such as a flood or other catastrophic weather events that bring massive amounts of water into buildings, and result in microbial contamination. In such cases, unless all the affected porous and semi-porous building materials and contents are addressed immediately, contamination will likely occur in short order.

Also consider the nature of the water that came into the building. Clean water from a potable source, like a broken supply plumbing line, doesn’t usually pose an immediate microbial health risk to occupants. In most cases if the affected wetted building materials and contents are addressed (removed/replaced or rapidly cleaned & dried to normal state), mold problems will be prevented or at least greatly minimized. Floods from ground water or sewage systems may contain serious microbial agents such (as bacteria and viruses) that pose an immediate hazard to human exposure. Good practice typically dictates that, in these cases, all porous materials that have come in direct contact with this type of water loss should be discarded and replaced.

UN-Wanted, Dead or Alive

A common public misconception is that only “toxic” or pathogenic fungus such as the infamous Stachybotrys chatatrum is a problem for us. This, in fact, is not the case. Exposures to elevated levels of what are generally considered non-toxic / non-pathogenic organisms, like Cladosporium (one of the most commonly found molds outdoors) can lead to hypersensitivity reactions in people. For the most part, exposures to either viable (live) spores or non-viable (dead, damaged) spores create the same allergic or toxic effects in our bodies. These effects may also result from exposures to fragments of spores or fungal structures. The solution is to remove materials with colonized fungal growth from the indoor environment, correct the source(s) of moisture that led to the problem, and restore the indoor environment to levels that are somewhat parallel outdoor fungal conditions.

Is it realistic to completely rid our indoor environments of all fungal spores? Unless we all decide to take up full-time residence in pharmaceutical clean rooms, the answer is, probably not. And, except for extreme immune-compromised health cases, it’s not warranted. It is reasonable to find similar levels and rank orders of fungal spores indoors with those concurrently found outdoors, period. Ideally we would like to see lower levels of the same organisms inside, but even moderately higher levels of the same organisms indoors at a specific point in time is usually no cause for alarm.

Ultimately, the best advice for limiting mold problems in your building is to keep them dry. If the property is subjected to a sudden moisture event or an ongoing moisture problem, correct it now, or you’ll probably have to pay dearly later.

View links to more mold information: http://www.iaq.net/residential/indoor/mold/

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

Check out Bob's FREE consumer mold educational webinar on Facebook at: http://on.fb.me/zArtO6

Breaking the Mold

Mon, 09 Jan 2012 15:19:20 +0000

Bring up the subject of "indoor mold" in a group conversation, and you're liable to get a bunch of polarized responses! Not unlike our two-party political system, the mold debate seems to have vastly oposing opinions. One of the larger obstacles regarding effectively addressing mold issues I see here in the U.S. is that there is a faction of contractors & consultants that employ scare tactics to over-state and sell, and another faction of consultants and insurance adjusters that understates the severity to limit their losses.

There needs to be a common sense approach taken. Mold (mould) can cause adverse health affects. These affects vary with individuals. Outside the target population of mold-susceptible people (asthmatics, immune-compromised, etc.) we can't accurately predict who will suffer from mold exposure, or to what extent. Much is still unknown, hence the opportunity for misinformation on both ends of the spectrum.

Mold exposure is clearly not a good thing, though. Severity of human reaction also seems to be linked to amount and duration of exposure, so more is typically worse. Elevated indoor mold levels are generally linked directly to elevated moisture. Many of the commonly used building materials here in North America (like paper-faced gypsum board, OSB, and MDF) are especially prone to supporting indoor mold growth, given sufficient moisture conditions. Simply put, "We build paper houses, and then are surprised to find they aren't very durable."

Many of the mold guidelines & standards in the U.S. seem to somewhat miss the boat when it comes to truly limiting occupant and worker exposures to mold, or actually correcting a real mold problem. The insurance industry seems to still exert a lot of influence on the indoor environmental industry, and the government bodies enacting any regulations over it. I'm not sure the consumers' best interests are being served...

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

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January is Radon Action Month

Wed, 04 Jan 2012 10:36:17 +0000

January is National Radon Action Month. If you've been putting off the simple test that will check your home or office for Radon, this is the month to stop waiting and get it taken care of. Knowing about the dangerous levels of radon that may be present in your building is the first step to getting the gas removed.

Radon is an invisible, but dangerous, gas. You can't smell, taste or see it, but that doesn't mean your home is safe. Radon is responsible for more than 20,000 deaths a year (the leading cause of lung cancer in non-smokers), and testing is easy, so there's no reason to not test.

The EPA is recommending home owners take four simple steps this month in recognition of Radon Action Month. First, get your building tested. If there is a dangerous amount of radon in your home or office, hire a professional radon removal company to fix the problem. Second, attend a National Radon Action Month event in your area, to learn more about Radon and the dangers it presents. Third, help to spread the word about Radon. Tell friends, family and neighbors about the risks, and encourage them to test their homes as well (these free publications from the EPA can help). Finally, if you are considering a new home purchase this year, learn about radon resistant homes. These new homes are built using radon-resistant materials, preventing radon poisoning and helping to keep your family safe.

Radon removal is easy when you're working with a certified company. One of the most common methods is sub-slab depressurization, which uses a small fan and vent system to remove radon gas from your indoor space and disperse it to the outdoors. This system can remove as much as 99% of the radon in your building. You will also need to have any cracks or other structural gaps corrected, as they can allow more radon to enter your building. Structures with dirt crawl spaces may need to be have special liners installed to prevent radon from entering from those areas.

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

Check out Bob's FREE consumer mold educational webinar on Facebook at: http://www.facebook.com/iaq.technologies?sk=app_317245438292730

Building an Eco-Friendly Business in 2012

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:59:21 +0000

The new year is nearly here, and it's a time for making, and keeping New Year's resolutions. Even businesses should have a list of resolutions, or goals, for 2012. If you're looking for a resolution that that can save your business money, improve your image, and save the world all at the same time, then consider challenging yourself to go green this year.

There are dozens of small steps, and big steps, you can take to make your business more environmentally friendly. Start by looking for the obvious changes. If your business isn't already recycling, start now. Use double-sided printing when possible, and only print when absolutely essential. Eliminate waste wherever possible.

Switch to CFL light bulbs, and turn off computers and other electronics when they're not in use. Unplug things when you can; even electronics that are turned off use some power. Lower the thermostat a degree, and turn it way down before you close up for the evening. Use Energy Star or other energy efficient products when possible. Also, don't waste water. Install low-flow toilets, or install a device in your existing toilets that will improve their efficiency, and repair dripping faucets as quickly as possible.

Sometimes, going green requires you to make bigger changes. One of the best investments you can make is to make your office as energy efficient as possible by protecting your indoor air quality. Stop air leaks to keep your heated air (or conditioned air, in the summer) from escaping, and put an end to drafts, by having a team of professionals analyze your workplace. Building leakage testing and other similar tests, help to pinpoint the exact location of the leaks, and then air sealing to repairs the leaks, cutting down on energy use. Installing efficient heating appliances, or even just keeping your current devices running optimally, can also reduce usage.

Consider alternative energy sources. Place PV solar panels along the roof of your building. Even a small solar panel array can cut down on energy consumption and carbon emissions in a big way. If you're replacing your heating/cooling system this year, consider upgrading to a ground-source geothermal system. Geothermal heaters take the residual heat from deep in the ground and use it to heat and/or cool your building.

These are just a few of the steps your business can take to make your resolution of a greener business a reality in 2012. Challenge yourself to make one permanent change a month, until your business is operating in an eco-friendly way.

Bob moderates the new LinkedIn group, "The Great INDOORS". Join the discussion today!

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

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Same MOLD Story? Deja Vu All Over Again

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 11:53:37 +0000

After 24+ years in the indoor environmental services industry, I am still surprised about the perpetual stream of misinformation and (at least what appears to be) scare-tactic hype regarding mold. The week of 2/20/11 was no exception to that rule, with a feature story on mold running in our local newspaper. While I applaud that fact that there actually WAS a feature story on this important topic for the general public, there was a significant enough amount of skewed information to prompt me to blog my two cents here!

New York State Weighed in on Mold

The article came on the heels of the recent report from the New York State Toxic Mold Task Force, which did have a bunch of solid information in it. A few key points from the executive summary included:

Existing evidence, although limited, suggests approaches directed toward correcting moisture problems and removing mold exposure sources can help reduce occupant respiratory symptoms.
Written mold and water-damage assessment and remediation guidelines developed by many organizations provide practical guidance focused on identifying and repairing water damage in buildings and removing mold source materials. This approach to building mitigation is health protective because its goal is elimination of exposure sources. It is also less complicated to implement than mitigation based on attaining a numerical clearance criterion, since its main mitigation goal is that the building be returned to a clean and dry condition.
If water sources are properly corrected and existing sources of mold growth are eliminated, further treatment with disinfectants may not provide significant additional value in preventing further mold growth or exposure. Disinfectants may be useful for controlling mold in certain situations (e.g., circumstances where permanently correcting dampness conditions is not feasible such as poorly ventilated bathrooms).

Toxic Black Mold Fever

Can someone write a mold article without saying "deadly toxic black mold", please? (Damn--Now I'VE done it too, LOL)

Since 2000, the various media have focused the bulk of their mold attention on Stachybotrys. In doing so, these information outlets may have misdirected the general public. The presence (or lack) of Stachybotrys in a home or office is not a Litmus test for whether or not the indoor environment is "healthy". A home may test free from any Stachybotrys, yet be overrun with other types of fungi or bacteria that necessitate a drastic response. Conversely, a Stachybotrys spore on a random surface sample alone does not, for example, warrant the immediate evacuation of a school.

This is not to minimize occupant concerns with exposure to Stachybotrys. But there are a host of other molds that can adversely affect our indoor environments, in fact, most molds (in quantity) can do just that! Various molds are typically flying all over our outdoor and (as a result of air movement) our indoor environments. For the most part, we've been able to adjust to those exposures as a species. Problems occur when mold finds a sufficiently moist place to grow indoors, which can lead to unusually high occupant exposure levels. When that happens, the moisture source needs to be addressed and the mold growth mitigated. Immune-compromised individuals, infants, and elderly are probably at greatest risk from mold exposure—although anyone can suffer a host of adverse reactions to mold. It really comes down to this: Control indoor moisture, stop mold. If mold occurs indoors, fix the moisture source, clean up the mold. I know, putting it that way isn't as spectacular as referring to the "deadly toxic black mold"...Just saying.

Some Key Considerations

Clorox, (aka bleach or sodium hypochlorite) is NOT an effective chemical to eliminate mold on indoor surfaces because:

It doesn't effectively kill mold spores or remove their potentially allergic and/or toxic properties.
Dead or alive, elevated levels of indoor mold can cause adverse health effects.
The stuff is often more toxic than the mold you're trying to get rid of!

If you can already SEE mold growing on indoor surfaces, there is often really no need to waste money testing to see what kind it is, etc (unless you just GOTTA know if it's the "deadly toxic" type). Just get rid of it! Mold can generally be cleaned off non-porous surfaces quite readily (tile, metal, glass), and sometimes off semi-porous surfaces (plastics, finished wood, etc.) and not so well off porous surfaces (gypsum board, upholstered furniture, bedding). In cases where you CAN'T actually see any mold, but can smell musty odors, testing to confirm the presence of mold probably does make economic sense. Check out consumer tips from the U.S. EPA and IAQ Technologies for dealing with indoor mold at: http://www.iaq.net/residential/indoor/mold/what-to-do-about-mold/. Also, there's some interesting sidebar chatter from our ASK IAQMAN Forum on "Toxic Mold" and several questions/comments on "Why Bleach is a Bad Idea for Mold"

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Keeping Your Home Safe for Santa - The IAQ Approach

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 09:08:43 +0000

Happy holidays! In less than a week, a chubby man wearing a suit of red will be sneaking down chimneys across the country. Is your home ready?

Santa has a rough life. He has to land his heavy sleigh, along with his nine reindeer, onto unknown roofs, slip down dirty (and possibly dangerous) chimneys, and then wander around homes that could give even the strongest set of lungs a severe case of asthma. And he does it all for some milk and a few cookies. This year, you can make your home safer for Santa, and more enjoyable for other Christmas guests, by taking care of your indoor air quality now.

The first potential problem Santa encounters is your roof. An average healthy reindeer weighs 650 pounds; multiply that by nine and you get 5,850 pounds. Add in Santa and his sleigh, and you're looking at a weight of approximately 6,500 lbs. landing on your roof. That's a lot. In order for your roof to support that, you want to make sure that the roof itself is in excellent condition.

How can you make sure that Santa and his reindeer won't end up falling through the roof and into your bedroom?

Air sealing-- Remove any leaky areas that let in moisture. Even a small crack or hole can let in enough moisture to start decaying your roof.
Insulation-- Not only does insulation keep your home warm, certain kinds can even prevent moisture intrusion and insulation products like closed-cell spray poly foam will actually help to support your home.

You also have to watch out for ice. Here in NY, steeply slanted roofs are the norm, and they can be treacherous in even the best weather. When you add snow and ice to the mix, they can be deadly, and not just for people on the roof. Large chunks of ice can form, and then come crashing down on vehicles, belongings, or anything else unfortunate enough to be standing beneath them. Another problem is the moisture (pockets of water) that can get trapped beneath the ice. When that water sits beneath the ice, and against your roof, for too long, it can start to deteriorate the roof beneath it. Air sealing and proper insulation can help here, too. While fluctuating winter temperatures can cause ice build-up, most of it is caused by heat escaping from the top of your home. This heat melts the snow, which is then refrozen by the cold air around it. After enough time, this becomes a huge safety issue, especially if you're trying to land a heavy sleigh on top of one of these huge sheets of ice.

After navigating the rooftop, Santa and his bulging bag of toys need to make it down the chimney. Of course, this step in his mission is also fraught with possible problems. A broken chimney flue can create all sorts of problems, and a crumbling chimney can add to them. To top it off, he has to slide down a chimney that hasn't been properly cleaned in years. How can you help him?

Make sure your chimney flue is clean, and that the damper or other cover is working. Not only does this make Santa's descent more comfortable, it helps to keep your home safe and warm, by preventing heat from rising out of the chimney and by preventing debris inside the flue from catching on fire the next time a fire is started.
Routinely check your chimney for signs of wear. You don't want Santa going down a crumbling chimney, but you also don't want your heat escaping (or rodents and birds inviting themselves in) through a hole or gap in your masonry.

Finally, take care of your indoor air quality. Between the scent of fresh-cut pines (nice for some, but an allergy nightmare for others), dusty ornaments, decorations and wreaths spread throughout the home, and the scent of a half dozen competing candles and cleaning supply odors, your indoor air quality can really take a hit this holiday season. Help Santa to breathe a little easier by cleaning with low-chemical cleaners. The big guy in red will appreciate it, and so will all of your other guests this holiday season. Have a safe and happy holiday!

10 Winter Efficiency Tips for your Home

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 09:07:18 +0000

Keeping your home warm in the winter is expensive, but it doesn't have to be. If you're trying to cut back on your heating costs, these tips can help.

Improve the efficiency of your hot water heater by applying a "jacket" or water heater blanket to your water heater and pipes. This can improve the efficiency up to 7%.
Install compact fluorescent CFL) light bulbs or replacement LED lights. Not only do these bulbs last much longer than a traditional light bulb, they also take much less energy
Weather stripping, or air sealing, your doors and windows will help to protect your home from drafts. It doesn't take much of a gap for your home to lose a substantial amount of heat.
Put your Christmas lights on a timer. Leaving your Christmas lights blazing all night can add up to a big charge on your electric bill. Have them automatically switch off at a set time every night. You can save even more by switching to LED Christmas lights this year.
Close up your chimney. Warm air rises, and your chimney is the ultimate pathway to the outside world. Make sure that your chimney damper closes correctly. If it doesn't, replace it. It's cheaper to put in a new one than it is to lose the heat through your chimney all winter.
Upgrade your thermostat. If you're still using a dial variety thermostat, it's time to upgrade to a new digital model. Most newer thermostats have a timer; no more forgetting to turn the heat down before you leave for the day or go to bed for the night.
Add a new Energy Star appliance to your Christmas wish list. Putting in a more efficient washer, dryer, fridge or stove can save you money all year round. It's the gift that keeps on giving.
Bundle up. Treat yourself to a super soft pair of slippers and a cozy throw or sweater. Putting on an extra layer of clothes is a much cheaper option that cranking the heater up a few more degrees.
Change out your furnace filters. This is an easy, inexpensive step that not only saves your indoor air quality, but also helps your furnace to run more efficiently.
Consider scheduling a free energy audit for your home. If you want to see what you're really spending your utility dollars on, a home energy audit is the way to go. An indoor air quality specialist will inspect your home, write up a list of improvements that will save you money on your utility bills, and then work with you to develop a plan for fixing any problems that you decide to address.

Bob moderates the new LinkedIn group, "The Great INDOORS". Join the discussion today!

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Stop Ice Dams Before They Take Over Your Roof

Tue, 06 Dec 2011 09:08:42 +0000

Ice dams (large blocks of ice that form on a roof) are a huge problem during the winter. It snows, piling several inches of cold white fluff on your roof top. Heat from inside your home makes its way out near this snow, starting to melt it, and then the freezing cold outside air turns this melted snow into ice. Eventually, pockets of water get trapped under the ice, deteriorating your roof, or the large blocks of ice start to do damage, both to your roof and to whatever lies beneath them when they finally fall. It's a huge disaster just waiting to happen.

You don't have to wait for disaster to strike, however. You can prevent ice dams before they start, just by taking steps to control the air flow in and around your roof.

Air escapes through your roof in two ways: The first is through heat transfer due to thin or inefficient insulation. Good insulation keeps the heat in your attic from transferring through your roof to the outside. Insufficient insulation might slow this heat transfer, but not nearly enough to keep ice dams from occurring (and not enough to keep your home warm).

The second way is through gaps along the corners and edges of your roof. How small are these gaps? Tiny. You probably won't even notice them. They might be small holes used by birds or insects, or even areas where wires and cables enter your home. While you might be paying more for heating, you probably aren't going to see huge gaping holes in your roof. But the small gaps are still going to create some big problems.

How do you prevent ice dams and the related problems? Start by improving your insulation. The better your insulation is, the less amount of heat will be able to transfer through your roof. Say goodbye to your older fiberglass insulation and take a look at more efficient alternatives. Also, the better quality insulation types do more than just keep your home warm. Cellulose, for example, can also prohibit excess moisture and mold growth, reduce noise, and increase the wall's ability to resist fire, all while improving your home's efficiency and helping to prevent ice dams.

Air sealing is the natural second step to preventing ice dams after updating your insulation. This seals up the any additional little holes, getting rid of the draftiness and keeping the heat from escaping your home. A professional indoor air quality team can show you the "leaky" areas of your attic using specialized tools, and then work with you to develop a plan for patching up any problem areas.

Finally, you need to create a safe way for air to escape. Putting a vent in your attic allows extra air to flow out, instead of it pressing against the corners of your home, looking for an alternative escape route. You don't want your attic sealed up completely; a little give and take with the outside air is a good thing, as long as it's carefully controlled and in an area that won't contribute to ice dams.

Taking steps to prevent ice dams is a smart move. Even a small amount of icy build-up on your roof can lead to big problems. It's better to take care of it now, before winter kicks into high gear, than wait until spring, when you may have even more damage to correct after several months of ice and trapped moisture deteriorating your roof.

Bob moderates the new LinkedIn group, "The Great INDOORS". Join the discussion today!

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

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Taking the Total Building Approach

Tue, 29 Nov 2011 08:55:58 +0000

When you go to the hospital with a serious injury or illness, you expect to have the entire health crisis addressed and solved, right? Sticking a bandage on a small cut, while ignoring broken bones and serious lacerations, and then saying you'll be fine doesn't cut it. There are still big problems that need addressing.

The same is true of improving your building's air quality. Better sealing your windows or sticking a dehumidifier in a damp basement is a start, but you're not really looking, or trying to solve, the larger air quality problems that might exist. You can't fix part of the problem and then just expect the rest of the problem to take care of itself. To get the best results, you really do need to take a total building approach.

What is the total building approach to indoor air quality? It's looking at (and addressing) everything that affects your indoor environment. This includes air leakage, insulation, moisture control, heating/cooling/ventilation, and any products or activities that affect the indoor environment. Addressing one or two of these areas will improve your air quality, definitely, but they work best when you can make improvements in all of these areas.

Here's the problem with only doing part of the work. Let's say you install a more efficient heating system and you seal up your leaky duct work. More conditioned air is reaching the occupant spaces...where it is quickly escaping through unintentional air leakage pathways. Or, you make sure your building is very well sealed up, clean your HVAC ducts, install new insulation, and put in upgraded heating/cooling and domestic water heaters, but you didn't address the source of your excessive moisture problem, and now you have mold growing throughout the walls of your structure. Even with all the energy efficiency upgrades, the resulting mold spores are destroying your indoor air quality (and possibly your health, too!).

What it all comes down to is you need to treat the source of the problem, not just the symptoms. Failing to do so will not be a long term fix.

Bob moderates the new LinkedIn group, "The Great INDOORS". Join the discussion today!

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The Technology of Indoor Air Quality

Tue, 22 Nov 2011 08:58:29 +0000

Like any professionals, indoor air quality specialists have a special arsenal of tools that help them to get the job done. This is especially true of the tools that allow them to test a building for air leaks and other air quality problems. We have a range of targeted systems to help us diagnose air quality problems in your building in the quickest and easiest ways possible.

If I asked to to list the tools that could test for drafts and other air leaks in your home, I bet you wouldn't list infrared technology as one of them. But infrared technology is one of the most useful tools available when we're trying to check behind the walls to look for problems with your insulation. The infrared sensor looks for changes in the heat of a room (or wall). If there is a significant difference from one area to another, that shows that something in your building is letting heat in or out. That alerts us to a problem we may not have been able to diagnose otherwise.

Another tool we use is the Automated Performance Testing (APT) system. This is what we use for the blower door test. The blower door test is used to measure how "tight" a building is, or how much air can leak out of it. There are two parts to this system. The first is the blower door, which is set in the doorway of your building and introduces enough air into the home to pressurize it. The second part is a computerized monitor that checks the pressure inside the building during and after the test. A home should lose a small amount of air; if the home is losing more or less than that amount, there may be an air quality problem that needs fixing.

Similar to that is a tool called the DuctBlaster. This works nearly the same as the ATP system above; we seal the ducts and then blow air into them until we reach a certain pressure. If it takes longer than expected to reach that pressure, that's a sign that your ducts are leaky. Since buildings can lose an average of 20-30% of their heat through a leaky duct system, diagnosing these problems can make a huge difference in heating costs and home comfort levels.

The secret to achieving accurate results when testing the "leakiness" of a home is to have the best equipment for the job. Air quality professionals have a wide range of tools they use to assure indoor air quality, but these are three of our most valuable tools. Understanding what they are and how they work can help you to understand not only what affects your home's indoor air quality, but also what can be done to improve it.

Bob moderates the new LinkedIn group, "The Great INDOORS". Join the discussion today!

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Get the Lead Out: Testing For and Removing Lead in the Workplace

Tue, 15 Nov 2011 09:01:44 +0000

When professionals talk about the dangers of lead paint, the emphasis is almost always on lead paint in the home. That's a huge danger, by all means, but it's not the only place where lead paint can create a safety concern.

Commercial buildings can, and do, have lead contamination problems, too. In fact, depending on where you work, your chances for running into lead-related health problems could be much greater in your workplace than at home. A lot of businesses are run out of very old buildings, and older buildings are much more likely to have walls covered in lead paint, even if that paint has since been painted over. Any renovating, even minor changes, can release lead dust and affect the health of the people you work with.

The smartest thing you can do is to have your workplace tested for lead-based paint, especially if the building was constructed before 1978 (the year lead paint was deemed unsafe and removed from the shelves). Lead paint is nothing to mess around with; exposure for even a short amount of time can lead to some serious neurological problems. Prolonged exposure can lead to death.

How do you test for lead paint? There are a couple options. If you're renovating, you can have your workplace tested for lead dust. They sell kits online and at some hardware stores; If the test comes back positive, you'll have to call a professional to perform a second test and work up a plan for removing the lead for you.

Alternatively, you could hire a professional from the get-go. The benefits of this include not needing to worry about human error affecting your test results and a better testing method. Many of the best lead testing and removal companies use what is known as X-Ray Fluorescence (XRF) scanning technology to search for lead paint. XRF scanners are a little like the cool scanners you'd see on Star Trek or other futuristic sci-fi shows; they analyze the metals in the material they are scanning and offer results that can tell you several different things. One of those things is whether or not there is lead present.

If your workplace is contaminated with lead paint, you'll need to take steps to have it removed. To do this, you need to work with a professional lead abatement company. There are very strict guidelines that need to be followed to keep the people in your workplace (and the people removing the lead) safe; don't work with someone who hasn't been properly trained and certified. This isn't a job that has a lot of room for mistakes.

The company you decide to work with will discuss options with you and develop a plan to remove the lead paint in your workplace without disrupting your business more than they have to. Once a course of action is decided on, they'll quickly and professionally remove the lead-contaminated paint from your workplace in a way that is both safe and effective, leaving your business or offices lead-free.

Protecting Your Winter Air Quality

Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:03:51 +0000

When the warm temperatures fade, homes and businesses get sealed up for the winter. Windows are closed and locked, air conditioners and fans are removed and set into storage until next summer. Air exchange between the inside and outside of your building is prevented as much as possible, and while this is great for keeping your home or business warm, it's not going to do much for the breath-ability of the air in your home.

The difference is immediately obvious. The air is stale and dusty. Add in cooking odors (especially around the holidays), cleaning chemicals, and any additional dust being blown in through your heating vents, and your indoor air quality goes from bad to worse. Fortunately, there are safe and effective ways to protect your winter air quality.

Start by making regular use of your vents. Kitchen and bathroom vents (to the exterior of the building) help to remove odors and excess moisture. You should also replace your air filter on your furnace to remove more impurities from your air before it is pushed through your heating supply ducts. While you're at it, consider having your ductwork professionally cleaned. While this doesn't have to be done every year, it does still need to be done on a regular basis to keep your systems clear of dust and debris.

Use green cleaners, without harsh chemicals or strong scents. Not only are these products safer to use than other cleaners, they don't contribute to you indoor air pollution. Most have a light, pleasant scent. If you want to cut down on the excess scents even more, consider using vinegar, baking soda and lemon juice to clean. These products often provide better results than cleaners with harsh chemicals and they don't have that harsh chemical smell.

Look into air purifiers. If you're interested in the cleanest air possible, an air purifier might be an option worth considering. These remove most of the impurities in the air, leaving the room smelling fresher. Do your research before selecting an air purifier. You need one that is big enough to do the job. Look for air purifiers that have a built-in HEPA filter and stay away from ozone-type air cleaners. Not only do they not work, they can be hazardous to your health.

You probably won't have summer-fresh air in the middle of January, but you don't have to breathe in stale, smelly air all winter. Take steps now to protect your indoor air quality during the long months of sealed windows.

Bob moderates the new LinkedIn group, "The Great INDOORS". Join the discussion today!

Follow Bob Krell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/@IAQMAN

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Easy DIY Testing for Radon

Tue, 01 Nov 2011 08:27:05 +0000

You can't see or smell radon. It's an invisible, odorless gas that seeps up from the ground beneath your home. Knowing whether or not radon is present in your home could be a matter of life or death; it's the main cause of lung cancer in non-smokers and it kills thousands of people every year. According to the EPA, as many as 1 in fifteen homes have elevated levels of radon. Is yours one of them?

Testing for radon is easy and inexpensive, and there are two ways to do it.

First, you need to know how radon tests work. Put simply, they collect the air in your home or business. Then, the collection container is sealed and sent back to the labs for analysis. The radon is measured in picocuries per liter of air or pCi/L. Any amount below 4 pCi/L is considered acceptable. Amounts over that level require further testing.

The first kind of test, and the most common for initial tests, is called a short-term test. This test can last anywhere from two days to ninety days. You have to set the test on the lowest level of your home; because radon comes up from the ground, the highest concentration will be in the lowest areas. Before you begin, you need to close all of the windows and doors that would allow for air movement in your test area; it's impossible to get accurate results when the radon is escaping your home through an open window.

After the testing is complete (usually within 3-4 days), you just seal the container and send it in to the lab. Shortly after that, you'll receive your test results. A positive result may require a second, longer test.

Short-term test radon testing is very accurate. Unfortunately, they can only give a quick snapshot of the level of radon in your home. Levels can vary from one point in time to another; the seasons, weather, and other outside influences can affect the level of radon in your home or office. That's where the second kind of test comes in.

Long-term tests are any radon tests that last for longer than 90 days. If you live in an area that has a very high incidence of positive radon test results (ask your neighbors), this type of testing can tell you if your radon levels are peaking to an unhealthy level at any point during the year.

Radon testing is inexpensive and quick. Tests can be ordered online or found in many home maintenance stores. If your home does test positive for high levels of radon, you'll need hire a radon mitigation company as soon as possible to evaluate your home and install a system for removing the radon. The quicker this is done, the sooner you can breath easy, knowing that the air in your home or workplace is safe.

Invest in Indoor Air Quality, Invest in Your Home

Tue, 25 Oct 2011 09:50:10 +0000

Paying attention to the indoor air quality of your home or business site is a smart idea. Not only does it protect your health and lower your utility costs, the techniques that help to protect your air quality also improve the quality and value of your property.

One of the best ways to improve your indoor air quality is through improving the insulation of your home or office. Upgrading to a cellulose-based insulation, instead of the older fiberglass found in most structures, not only keeps your home better insulated, it can also improve the wall's ability to resist fire by as much as 27%. It also reduces moisture, adds some soundproofing, and is non-toxic. It's also better for allergy sufferers; unlike fiberglass insulation, cellulose insulation doesn't spread irritants into the air.

Air sealing and crawl space liners protect and upgrade your home or business site by helping to prevent moisture intrusion and by improving insulation. By preventing unconditioned air from outside your home from seeping into your home, and keeping the conditioned, clean air inside your home from leaking out into the outdoors, you're going to enjoy lower heating bills. You're also going to be protecting your home from moisture intrusion problems, insects, and related damage to the structure of your home.

Testing your home for dangerous toxins and gasses, and resolving any issues that might exist, also can improve your home or office. Radon and lead paint are huge health hazards. Addressing the issue by testing and then selecting a method of having the radon or lead removed from your home makes the property a safer, and more attractive, option for future buyers.

Another way to improve the air quality of your home is to install a new, efficient heating and cooling system. New appliances improve the value of your business site or home, especially if they are eco-friendly. They also run cleaner; not only will you be more comfortable, the air you breathe will have fewer irritants and pollutants.

Investing in your home's air quality now may have add up to a big pay-off down the road. Also, because most air quality improvements in your home are also eco-friendly, you're giving future buyers an additional incentive to take a closer look at your property. Green homes and buildings are popular; improving your indoor air quality now makes your home or business space more attractive to buyers when you're ready to move into a new place.

Taking Care of your Ductwork

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 09:33:41 +0000

Air ducts are one of the most overlooked areas of a building. Sure, you keep your appliances running well, sweep, mop, and vacuum, but when was the last time you gave any thought to the covered vents going through your home?

When your vents were first installed, they were glistening with newness, fit together snuggly, and in perfect working order. Then several years went by. Suddenly, the insides were covered with dust, dirt and other unpleasantness. There were small gaps forming between connected sections; maybe not big enough to be noticed visually, but more than big enough to let hot air escape. Now, not only are they blowing dirty air into your home, they're also not as efficient as they used to be.

Chances are, you haven't noticed. Or, if you have, you haven't really given it much thought. Yes, there's a dusty smell the first few times the heat comes on in the fall, and maybe you're heating bills are a little higher, but that's nothing to be concerned about, right? Wrong. An ignored problem in your ducts could turn into significantly higher heating bills and even a potential health concern.

Your HVAC system needs occasional maintenance, just like your home or vehicle does. Dust and other irritants in your air ducts can lead to allergy-like symptoms if left long enough. If you don't remember the last time your ducts were professionally cleaned, for example, it probably needs to be taken care of. There's more involved than just sticking a vacuum hose into the vent and hoping for the best. Air quality specialists have a whole range of HVAC duct cleaning methods that can make sure your ducts are completely cleaned. Air whips, mechanical brushes, and even specialized cameras are some of the tools used by the best companies.

At the same time, you might want to have the ducts checked for leakage. Air sealing your ductwork can make your heating system much more efficient. Technicians cover the vents in your home to create a closed environment in your ducts, and then hook up a special fan to blow air into the ductwork. Then, they measure how strong the fan needs to blow to produce a certain level of pressure. The harder the fan has to work, the leakier your ducts are. Technicians then locate and seal up any leaky areas, improving the efficiency of your heating system by as much as 30%.

You can't ignore your air ducts and let them gather dust for a decade or more. You also shouldn't let any leaks go unattended; even a small leak can have an impact on your heating costs. Just like anything else in your home or business site, a little upkeep for your HVAC air ducts can go a long way towards making sure your home stays comfortable for years to come.

Handling a Mold Disaster

Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:41:41 +0000

It can happen to anyone.

First, something smells. . . off. There is a slightly damp, musky scent in the back of a storage closet or in the corner of your bathroom. It could be anything and life is busy, so you brush it off. You forget about it, and blame your new allergy symptoms on a cold or the weather.

The next thing you know, you go to pull out your favorite fall clothing or an important box of papers, and find them covered in mold. The deeper you dig, the more mold, mildew and discoloration you find.

You have a serious mold problem on your hands. What do you do now?

Start by gathering up all of the moldy items and washing whatever you can. Use the highest heat setting your clothing will allow. Rinse an extra time, and check for staining before you throw the clothes into the dryer. If they are still stained, use a stain treatment and wash them again. Dry thoroughly and set aside. If you're facing a pile of moldy paper, throw out whatever you don't need and set the rest out to dry. If your valuables have been affected by mold, you may need to consult a restoration specialist.

Mold is caused by excess moisture, so you need to figure out what is causing the water problem and fix it. Then, start drying out the mold-contaminated part of your home or business. Mold cannot grow in a dry area. Unfortunately, using a fan to dry out the area can send mold spores flying through the air. Not only can this quickly spread a mold problem, the spores also get into your lungs. A dehumidifier with an air filter can help. Weather permitting, you can also open a window to start the drying-out process.

Wear gloves and a face mask any time you are dealing with mold. To remove mold from hard surfaces, use a heavy duty sponge or scrubber, detergent and hot water. Porous surfaces (wall paneling, ceiling tiles, carpeting, ect.) may have to be thrown away. Do not paint or caulk over moldy surfaces; trapping the mold inside won't get rid of it.

If you have a large mold problem, or a smaller one that won't go away, you need to contact a mold remediation specialist. Don't try to tackle the problem on your own. Recurrent mold could be a sign of a larger mold problem hidden behind your walls. A qualified mold removal company will work with you to design a treatment strategy, and then make sure the mold is gone for good by using specialized technology and advanced mold removal techniques.

How to Hire an Indoor Air Quality Company

Tue, 04 Oct 2011 09:32:01 +0000

How do you choose an indoor air quality team to investigate your home or business location? Do you look for someone who has "expert" written all over their website? Unfortunately, anyone can claim to be an expert, whether they are or not. If you want to make certain that the company you hire really is the best in the area, you're going to need to do your research.

Start by asking around for referrals. If you've heard good things about a certain company, that may be a good indication that they'll be a great choice, but don't hire them without doing more research. You need to make sure the company you work with is the best choice for your needs.

There are a few different industry certifications for air quality professionals. Some of the certifications you want to check for are ACAC (American Council for Accredited Certification), CCIEC (Council-Certified Indoor Environmental Consultant), or certification from the EPA (they offer certification for some air quality issues). When you check a company for certification, you need to also look into what the certification requires. If all a company has to do to get certified is sit through an hour-long presentation, that certification doesn't count for much. You also need to make sure that any employees that go out into the field are certified, not just a select handful of the owners, managers and top employees.

Once you've narrowed down your choices based on certification and word-of-mouth referrals, the next thing to look for is knowledge. The company you choose should be able to answer any of your questions ahead of time, and they should be happy to do it. If a company isn't willing to answer questions, or if they talk down to you while answering, find someone else. In addition, you should also ask if the company participates in regular education programs, keeping refreshed and updated on anything that affects how they do their jobs.

You also need to look for experience. A more experienced team will be better able to meet your needs, and will be less likely to make a mistake. When you're dealing with the quality of the air you breath, you don't want to risk any mistakes. More experience also means that the company will be better able answer questions and handle any problems that may crop up on site. Don't be afraid to ask how long a company (or even the individuals doing the testing in your home) have worked in the air quality field.

Is this asking a lot? Yes. But hiring a company to test your indoor air quality isn't the same as hiring a company to clean your floors. Quality and experience matters. Make sure you find a company that delivers.

Air Quality and the Cold Season: What’s the Connection?

Tue, 27 Sep 2011 08:47:31 +0000

Could your indoor environment be making you sick? It might be, if you have poor indoor air quality. Many of the most common cold and flu symptoms may be the result of poor indoor air quality. Things like allergens, dust and other irritants pollute the air in your home, and then are brought into your body every time you inhale.

The indoor pollution in your indoor environment is often worse than the outdoor pollution in even some of the most polluted cities. Beyond the dust, dander and other obvious allergens, there are cleaning products and paint fumes. There are also perfumes, food and garbage odors, cigarette smoke, and any number of other potential irritants. There may also be mold spores in the air. It's no wonder why people spend so much of the winter taking medication for cold symptoms.

When there are excessive amounts of irritants in the air, your body's natural response is to clean the air as best as it can before allowing it into the lungs. It increases mucus supplies in your nasal cavities and along your throat. This is bad enough, but combined with the typical dry winter air, you're left feeling congested and uncomfortable. If you don't realize that this may be caused by the air inside, you probably think you are getting sick.

This is less of a problem during the summer months because of one very important reason: ventilation. People often have the windows open, and there is some fresh air being drawn into the building. Good air in; bad air out. Then, it starts to cool down. The windows are closed, the heaters are turned on (creating a new source of irritants if they are in need of a cleaning), and the indoor air quality starts to plummet.

The solution is to keep a fresh supply of air moving through your indoor spaces during the winter months, too. You may benefit from an air purifier, one that really works to clean the air. Stick to filtration types, rather than ionizers or ozone generators (check out my earlier blog rant on ozone machines). Whole-house ventilation can be achieved by installing a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) or an Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) to provide a year-round fresh air source indoors for homes. Commercial HVAC system should already be bringing in a minimum amount of outside air—verify that this is actually the case.

If you suffer from allergies year round, or if you're easily affected by dusty or damp areas, there's a very good chance that some of your seasonal cold symptoms are really caused by the air pollution indoors. Find out more at www.IAQ.net

Considering Your Home Heating Options

Tue, 20 Sep 2011 09:15:00 +0000

Are you looking for new heating options for your home?

Heating season is only a few short weeks away. If you've been considering updating your current heating appliances to something newer, greener, and more efficient, now is the perfect time to do it. You could have your new system installed before the first snowflake flies.

There are several options for efficient heat sources for your home. How do you choose? Start by knowing your options. While there are several variations, there are really only five main home heating options for you to consider:

A traditional furnace is the most common, and the one most people turn to when replacing their older heating appliances. Recent models are much more efficient than they were even five years ago, saving money while also doing a better job of keeping your home comfortably warm.
A high-efficiency boiler is another green option. These are most often seen in older homes, but the newest models are eco-friendly, and they have the benefit of not disrupting the humidity inside the home. Hot water is forced through radiators, located throughout the house, heating the air around it. There is no dry air being blown into the home, perfect for those who are sensitive to the drying effects of other heating systems.
Geothermal heaters, also a smart option, save energy by drawing heat from the ground. Even in the middle of winter, the ground is warmer than the air outside. Geothermal systems tap into this available heat to help heat the air in your home.
Heat Pumps are placed outside the home, and are part of a combined heating and cooling appliance. Air is drawn in from the outdoors, and then is heated and pumped into the home. These operate at a lower efficiency than other home heating options, but higher efficiency models are still much more eco-friendly than older models.
Solar heating is the greenest, but most expensive, option. You would need a massive amount of sun panels to generate enough power to keep your home comfortable all winter long. The benefit of solar heating is that it does cut down on winter heating bills more drastically than any other heating option. Unfortunately, with current technology, depending on solar energy to heat your whole home, 100% of the time, isn't practical. It works best when used in combination with one of the other heating options.

Which one is best for your home? It depends on your available budget and the size of your home. You should also base your decision on whether or not you want to replace your entire heating system or just upgrade to a more recent model of what you already have. Whatever option you decide on, investing in a more efficient model now will save you a significant amount on your winter utility costs over the next several years, while also reducing your home's impact on the environment. It's a win-win situation.

Recovering From the Flood

Tue, 13 Sep 2011 09:35:13 +0000

In the past few weeks, the East Coast has seen a hurricane, tropical storm, earthquake and even a tornado. Immediately following this was a record-breaking amount of flooding. Thousands were forced to evacuate their homes and communities. If your home sustained flood damage, it's normal to feel overwhelmed. Take a deep breath, and take it one step at a time. Things aren't always as bad as they seem at first, and even if they are, it won't take long before things start returning to normal.

The very first thing you need to do is contact your insurance company to make sure you're covered and to get a claim started. They will send someone to your property to assess the damage and get the insurance process going. They'll also speak with you about your options for cleaning and either repairing or rebuilding.

Be careful as you start picking up any debris left behind by the flood. Bacteria can grow quickly; use rubber gloves and an air mask, at minimum. Anything that got wet needs to be cleaned and disinfected before use. Insurance should replace any furnishings or electronics that were destroyed, and restorative drying services can help save your important documents and your valuables.

The Red Cross can provide you with a clean-up kit (with a broom, a mop and other essential cleaning supplies) to help you get started on the clean-up process. Turning on fans (as long as they didn't get wet) and opening windows can help speed up drying times. Be careful of any weak areas in your home; they aren't always immediately recognizable. Check to make sure the floors and stairs are sturdy enough to walk on. Be aware that the water in your community may not be safe to drink. Use bottled water until its safe.

Stay safe. Don't enter your building until you have been told that it's safe. Don't walk or drive through standing water; it's hard to judge how deep it is or how sturdy the ground beneath it may be. Be very cautious when traveling through muddy areas, and follow all precautions set forth by emergency personnel. Listen to local radio stations or check local news websites to get the latest safety notifications and other information pertaining to your area. Also, take care of yourself. Make sure you are getting adequate rest, eating three healthy meals a day, and finding time for stress-relieving activities.

When you go to hire a company to clean and repair your property, don't hire any company off the street unless they can provide information about their business, qualifications and experience, and testimonials from other customers. Even then, you're better off doing some research first. Flood damage can be tricky; work with a qualified professional. Far too many businesses and individuals prey on desperate homeowners after disaster strikes. Protect yourself by asking questions, getting everything in writing, and staying informed.

If your building was flooded, there is a very high likelihood that it will develop a mold problem. The mold can even grow between the walls of your home where you can't see it. Consider mold testing, even if you do have a professional in to clean and repair your property. Mold can have a negative effect on your health, and it can be easy to miss a vulnerable area where the extent of the water damage wasn't as visible as in other areas of your building.

If you were fortunate enough to not be affected by the recent tropical storms, and you want to help those who were, the American Red Cross is accepting donations, as are several smaller, local charities. Also, many communities are hosting benefit events or doing their own fundraising to help affected areas.