Land of Trumpet, Roar, and Song: Wanderings in Wild India

Obit: Lady Scott

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 04:45:00 +0000

Marrying Peter Scott in Iceland in 1951 while on a trip with him to find the breeding grounds of the pink-footed goose, Philippa Scott (who became Lady Scott when he was knighted in 1973, but was known to friends simply as Phil), played a crucial role with him in the establishment of the Severn Wildfowl Trust at Slimbridge, Gloucestershire, these days the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust (WWT).

Read the full obituary in The Times.

Nilgai Bulll in the MIst, Bharatpur

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 01:24:00 +0000

I am back! Having gone to Bangalore and brought my cameras, all my blogs will start to live again!

Also expect a lot of decent video.

Nilgai Bull in Mist at Bharatpur from indianwildlifetv on Vimeo.

Relocating to Kaziranga!

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 07:06:00 +0000

Apologies for the long delay, but I have been travelling. In January I take charge of a new project, Infinity Kaziranga Wilderness, and will be based out of Kaziranga National Park, Assam. Expect regular updates from the end of January.

And a Happy 2010 to all!!!

Bandhavgarh Diary : IV

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 06:43:00 +0000

For some reason the full-version did not upload yesterday, here is the full version.

Mirchani Brothers at Play (Full version) from indianwildlifetv on Vimeo.

Bandhavgarh Diary : III

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 01:30:00 +0000

These are the Mirchani brothers (from the Mirchani female's older litter).

Mirchani Brothers, Bandhavgarh from indianwildlifetv on Vimeo.

Bandhavgarh Diary: II

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 01:30:00 +0000

The Mirchani female, taken on a Kodak M1033, on 17th October, 2009.

Mirchani Female, Bandhavgarh from indianwildlifetv on Vimeo.

Bandhavgarh Diary: I

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 05:15:00 +0000

20th October, 2009

All images shot on a Kodak M1033

In Bandhavgarh and thankfully so, after three days in Delhi. Six safaris thus far. On the morning when the park opened for the season, the naturalists and myself, accompanied by Guddu, the driver, went up to the Fort. It was good to be back in Bandhavgarh after a gap of six years and everything seemed just as it was except that I have only seen the park during the hot season. Winter here is wonderful with the mornings and evenings turning very cold.

Chakradhara, one of the most beautiful places in the world (even better than the lawns of Magdalen College, Oxford), was very misty and inviting. The backlit heads of grass gave a fantastic feel to the meadow with its backdrop of Bandhavgarh, the hill.

Views of Chakradhara

Chakradhara from the Fort

This was my first visit to the Fort and the tree-covered ruins are fabulous, a dream for the black and white photographer. We visited and offered prayers at the temple and then absorbed the views of the park, of Chakradhara and Sitamantap in particular. Vultures were spotted at Vulture Point and I thought that everybody visiting Bandhavgarh should visit the viewpoint at the Chowki and have a cuppa whilst there.

Vulture Point

Sitamantap from the Fort

Sitamantap in the evening

The next day was Choti Diwali which was celebrated with a pooja at Infinity Bandhavgarh Wilderness. Diwali was occasioned by the visit of our first guests, a couple from the United States and I accompanied them on safari. The Forest Department has introduced a fixed route system which is very good since it prevents vehicles from congregating at one place. 45 vehicles are allowed in the Tala zone. It is my personal opinion that this should be further reduced over the seasons as the park is still very congested. Still further, the hire rates for the Gypsys are quite expensive and not every visitor wants a Gypsy. The smaller Mahindra RTVs (NOT the Canter) should also be introduced for casual visitors and day-trippers.

The main reason I say this is because only by reducing the number of vehicles in Tala, will tourism develop in the Maghdi and Khitauli ranges of the park.

There is now a ‘Centre Point’ where one must report at the completion of the first part of one’s route. This is an eyesore, with tea shops and miscellaneous vendors ,and should be curtailed to toilets and tea. The Centre Point mars the experience of visiting Bandhavgarh.

The usual wildlife was seen on our first safari, although I did not see any large chital or sambar stags. However, there was the thrill of hearing the harsh alarm calls of the langur and the plaintive alarm calls of the chital. No vehicles spotted a tiger and it was a lesson in psychology to see vehicles full of people, all quiet, with disappointment writ large on their face, quietly making their way back to the main gate of the park.

On the way back from the evening safari we encountered a crush of vehicles who had spotted the Mirchani female. She has a new litter of three cubs of about five and a half months old. She dropped out of view and the vehicles left. We stayed and were soon rewarded by her presence. She walked towards our Gypsy, sprayed a tree, came onto the road, sprayed another tree and then went off into her home, the jungle.

This video will be up tomorrow.

The next morning produced one of the most fabulous tiger sightings ever. We encountered the Mirchani female’s two male cubs from her previous litter, two enormous males of about 27 months. When we first saw them they were just sitting and facing the road, but what made the sighting so special is that they began to play tag with one another. One brother would walk a little way, and the other would then come charging after him. The sound that the bulk of a tiger makes when running, makes one not want to be a chital.

I have videos which I have edited and I hope to get these up tomorrow. For some reason, I cannot seem to reduce the size of the edited video.

On our way back we heard the alarm calls of a langur and thus stopped. A sambar then began to bell consistently, and we watched, all eyes towards the direction of the alarm calls. I then heard the American gentleman say, “There’s a tiger . . . no it’s a leopard,” and as we spun round we saw a leopard streak across the road behind our Gypsy, a truly rare sighting for Bandhavgarh.

The next two safaris produced cursory and distant glimpse of the two brothers and a very good jackal sighting.

Corbett Diary : XIII

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 03:32:00 +0000

10th October, 2009

Not everything is rosy all the time. This chital was hit so hard that the stomach and guts had been thrown from the body. It’s good that nobody can delete this post as being 'controversial'.

The irony of the road sign, with the stomach and guts on the road!

Corbett Diary : XII

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 06:30:00 +0000

Corbett Diary: XI

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 01:57:00 +0000

Video day. Some are taken on the Nokia E63 and are lousy. More videos scheduled to be online at noon today.

Tracking a Tiger Kill with The Corbett Foundation fromindianwildlifetv on Vimeo.

Jim Corbett Museum, Kaladhungi from indianwildlifetv on Vimeo.

Corbett Falls from indianwildlifetv on Vimeo.

Corbett Diary: IX

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 13:18:00 +0000

9th October, 2009

A quick bird trip to Gargia, which is about 4kms from Infinity Corbett Wilderness, produced a day of firsts. Garjia is part of a reserved forest and is known for its Durga temple. There is an ancient suspension bridge which one uses to cross the Kosi and this bridge and the path by the Kosi produced White-Capped Water Redstarts (Chaimarrornis leucocephalus) and Plumbeous Water Redstarts (Rhyacornis fuliginosus) by the bushel! It was my first sighting of the male Plumbeous and it is beautiful bird, very plump and perky.

Crested Kingfisher (Megaceryle lugubris) was also seen as was Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis), but another exciting first was the Black-chinned Babbler (Stachyris pyrrhops), a very cute bird, and yes, it has a black chin. Once inside the RF proper we were greeted with a host of Himalayan Bulbuls (Pycnonotus leucogenys), with their white-cheeks, yet another first for me. This was followed by fleeting views of Rusty-Cheeked Scimitar Babbler (Pomatorhinus erythrogenys) and though we heard it continuing to call, we could not locate it again. On our way out of Garjia we saw Blue-bearded Bee-eater (Nyctyornis athertoni), White-crested Laughing Thrush (Garrulax leucolophus), and Common Wood Shrike (Tephrodornis pondicerianus). Other birds spotted were minivets, both Rosy (Pericrocotus roseus), as well as Scarlet (Pericrocotus flammeus).

One wrong step and you are in the drink!

Corbett Diary: VIII

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 13:14:00 +0000

8th October, 2009

I woke late for a change and was caught up with computer-based work. I did, however, spot a Rufous Treepie (Dendrocitta vagabunda), which seemed to be all a-clamour, my first on the grounds of Infinity. In the afternoon I sat down to work with the naturalists and worked out details on how to provide guests with a better wildlife viewing experience.

Tea at the Staff Canteen where I was privileged to meet Mr Chander Singh Negi, or ‘Jolly Uncle,’ as he is popularly called. With about 50 years service to Corbett Tiger Reserve and now with The Corbett Foundation, it was a privilege to meet this stalwart defender of wildlife, who is in the habit of scolding tigers when they warn him from getting too close to their kills. Jolly Uncle received the Lifetime Service Award from Sanctuary Asia in 2005, which mentions that he was here when Hailey National Park was renamed!

Perhaps there is somebody looking out for me, for after tea, when I went down to the river I was richly rewarded by my first sighting of the incredibly beautiful White-capped Water Redstart (Chaimarrornis leucocephalus). This remarkably beautiful bird with its rufous body, handsome black jacket and cravat, and white cap was a treat. At the time I first spotted this bird I was on the mobile phone, speaking to a friend who was driving through Bangalore-traffic, and I thanked my stars for guiding me here. Every 3-4 seconds, it made a low whistle, whee – whee-whee. As I looked around the usual tableau continued, with the River Lapwings (Vanellus duvaucelii) in determined pursuit of a single Large-billed Crow (Corvus macrorhynchos) who just seemed to want a bit of a rest. No quarter was given by the doughty lapwings and the intruder was soon seen off.

Three Pied Kingfishers (Ceryle rudis) were present today and I watched as one proceeded to hover and then dropped to the water. But at the last second it aborted its dive and flew away low over the water. I was finally intrigued by a dumpy bird, with a robin-like jizz, that sat and preened on a rock surrounded by the swirling waters. It dipped its tail constantly and was greyish-green and had a very prominent white-rump that was even more prominent in flight. On returning to my quarters I searched Kazmierczak to no avail, but was able to identify the bird in Grimmet and Inskipp which has a different view, and which clearly showed the white-rump, a female Plumbeous Water Redstart (Rhyacornis fuliginosus).

Which brings me back to my exhortation that you need both books as well as the 10-volume Ali-Ripley.

More tomorrow as we bird in Gargia in the morning.

Corbett Diary: VII

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 04:47:00 +0000

7th October, 2009

Post-lunch, a fairly lazy day. Went to the river in the evening. The rain on the 5th has caused water levels to rise considerably and the river is in spate. The water is murky and we cannot see the mahseer. Crested and Pied Kingfisher flying around, River Lapwing, White-browed Wagtail, but nothing more. No peafowl, no deer. Back for an early dinner and bed.

Corbett Diary: VI

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 04:43:00 +0000

6th October, 2009

Today was an amazing day. The rain had all but stopped and we set out in the morning towards Machore. The country to the right of Infinity steadily rises and I was thrilled by the amazing views of the Kosi and the Kumaon hills. We then came to Mohan, a major outpost in the Corbett saga, and turned left towards Pauri, one of the places visited by Corbett during his quest for the man-eating leopard of Rudraprayag.

The views of the Pauri-Garhwal hills are truly breathtaking and I was glad to be able to see it. Our driver, Majid, has, quite literally, the eyes of a hawk, and the icing on the cake was his spotting two ghoral, or mountain goats, perched precariously on the side of a hill. Once he told us where they were it was blindingly obvious that these two goats were there, but if you did not know they were there you would not have seen them.

We then drove back to Infinity after which we drove towards Jhirna, to Dhela to meet with a family of Gujjar’s who had benefited from the work of The Corbett Foundation. Their settlement was extremely compact, clean, eco-friendly and wonderfully aesthetic. We spent an hour with these handsome people who are originally from Jammu and Kashmir, but yours truly was carried away by the sight of a Bhotia sheepdog that lay dozing in the compound. The darkly-brindled beast was as handsome as any dog I have seen at Crufts.

(Nokia E63)

A quick lunch and a drive to Jhirna in the afternoon. We sighted a Savannah Nighjar (Caprimulgus affinis) near the Forest Rest House and spent a few moments observing it. We also spotted both morphs of the Asian Paradise Flycatcher (Terpsiphone paradisi).

That evening, at dinner on The Deck at Infinty, the Kosi’s roared, fuelled by the previous day’s incessant rain. It was a beautiful night and we were rewarded by fluffly white clouds streaming across the dark skies, and the entire tableau lit by a near-full moon.

Corbett Diary: V

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 04:40:00 +0000

5th October, 2009

Rain still tipping down here, very steady rain, the sort of rain we do not see in South India. Everything very wet. We went to SItavani this morning and despite the rain we were rewarded by the sight of a Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela) perched on a dead tree. Everything all very dull until we heard a cacophony from the canopy above us. We looked up to see a party of Great Slaty Woodpeckers (Mulleripicus pulverulentus). This magnificent bird is the largest woodpecker of the region (larger than a House Crow) and needs mature sal and teak forest. The male has a scarlet moustachial stripe that is not present in the female.

Ali and Ripley note that “the individuals scatter to feed in neighbouring trees, maintaining contact with one another by short querulous notes between the bouts of powerful tapping as they scuttle jerkily up and down the boles and branches. The birds fly from one patch of the forest to another in sprawling follow-my-leader style through the tree-tops or high above the forest canopy.”

Corbett Diary: IV

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 04:34:00 +0000

4th October, 2009

Day washed out, sat smoking and watching the steady rain. Internet down as well.

Corbett Diary III

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 04:30:00 +0000

3rd October, 2009

A perfect day. Started out by birding around the lodge where I was happy to see the usual White-browed Wagtails (Motacilla maderaspatensis) on the rock in the river where I had seen them on my previous visit. I liked the sight of the happy couple with their black bibs. I also saw the pair of Crested Kingfishers (Megaceryle lugubris), a bird I have been in love with ever since I discovered its existence. Was thrilled to see my first River Lapwings (Vanellus duvaucelii). There was a pair of them engaged in a quarrel with a Large-billed Crow (Corvus macrorhynchos), but neither side won, and soon the crow lost interest and went away to richer pickings. Of eggs or chicks I saw no sign, but Ali-Ripley give the breeding period from March-June. Later as I moved towards the road I spied a Golden-fronted Leafbird (Chloropsis aurifrons).

I then walked along the main road, towards Dhikuli, a rather tiresome experience, given the rush of traffic on the road, but nevertheless managed Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher (Culicicapa ceylonensis), a small, but dapper bird, Great Tit (Parus major), and White-bellied Drongo (Dicrurus caerulescens).

The highlight of the morning was a cackle of small birds right outside the Infinity reception. I pulled out my Audobon Bird Call and after a bit of squeaking (bird-calling?) I was able to induce a couple to show themselves. My heart skipped a beat as I set eyes on a most beautiful bird, one that I had only but dreamed of seeing until my arrival at Corbett, the Crimson Sunbird (Aethopyga siparaja), a truly fiery beauty.

I then discovered that these bushes lay just in front of the door to my cottage and was able to watch them to my heart’s content during which an Oriental White-eye (Zosterops palpebrosus) suddenly popped up as if to remind us that we must not forget the elegance and beauty of those creatures that we take to be ‘common.’

An hour by the river in the evening produced a solitary Little Stint (Calidris minuta) and later, a solitary Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos) bobbing its tail away as if its life depended on it.

Corbett Diary II

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 11:20:00 +0000

2nd October, 2009

This morning went in preparing the soft copy of the Corbett bird list as a means to preparing the bird tours and in answering and sending out emails. The maintenance people were also in but without the banging and crashing that is the wont of maintenance people in cities, and thus I was able to continue with, and complete, my work.

All the effort of worrying over split and merged species took its toll and in the afternoon I took a drive to an area outside the park which has enormous birding potential. It is my intention that Infinity will offer bird tours as soon as the migrants are present. Watch this space for details.

Corbett Diary I

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 11:17:00 +0000

1st October, 2009

Arrived at Infinity Corbett Wilderness after a drive through the featureless and grime-ridden landscape of Uttar Pradesh. Delhi and everywhere else very hot but UP seemed less scary than on my first visit. Very tired today and may not go out on the morning safari. Can hear a lot of birdlife in the mango orchard in which the staff quarters are built, but was too busy settling down to walk around with the field-glasses.

Dreadfully hot and muggy even here and I am told that there has been no rain for the last forthnight. The water levels in the Kosi are down and the lack of rain has made the water clear and one can see the mahseer. The staff inform me that the water will get even clearer in a month from now. That’s something to look forward to.

Spent some time on the flight reading The Man-Eating Leopard of Rudraprayag.

Relocating to Corbett Tiger Reserve

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 01:20:00 +0000

As of 1st October I will be joining Khatau International's Infinity Resorts as Manager - Wildlife. While I shall be travelling between Corbett, Bandhavgarh, Kutch, and later Kanha and Kaziranga, I shall be based at Infinity Corbett Wilderness, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, and located by the banks of the Kosi. Do keep in touch and let me know if you are visiting any of these places.

There shall be very little photography appearing on this blog until January, but there will be posts and a lot of writing and video. Do keep checking back, I hope to start by in October.

Bangalore Photography Workshops

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 01:34:00 +0000

Do you want to take your wildlife and nature photography to a new level? Here is an opportunity.

I, along with award-winning professional photographer Ashish Parmar (http://ashishparmar.com http://pixxonstudio.com), have launched a series of in-the-field photographic workshops. Instead of dreary theory sessions we actually show you how to take better pictures. We are committed to making you a better photographer.

Do check out http://bangalorephotographyworkshops.com

Bangalore Birding I

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Tue, 04 Aug 2009 01:48:00 +0000

Some of the results of some intensive birding around Bangalore. More to come this week.

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus

Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis

Indian Bushlark Mirafra erythroptera

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus

Wooly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus

Ramanagaram

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 01:30:00 +0000

I am usually against changing names and would still refer to Ramnagaram as Closepet, but in this case the changed name makes sense as the landscape is dominated by the Ramadeva betta. Here are some images from a recent trip.

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus

Long-billed Vulture Gyps indicus

Sunbirds in the garden (Really!)

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 13:10:00 +0000

One needs to be on a constant look-out for opportunities. This time, while at my parents' in Coorg, I spotted and seized an opportunity. I noticed sunbirds frequenting a flowering hedge and positioned myself in a car shed next to the hedge. Here I was able to photograph them to my heart's content. Because of the low light I could not get acceptable shots of the fascinating birds jumping from flower to flower.

The first images are of the male Purple-rumped Sunbird. These are floowed by the female of the species. The bird with the long curved bill is the female Loten's Sunbird. Note the long tongue of the burd which enables it to reach into flowers.

Purple-rumped Sunbird Nectarinia zeylonica

Loten's Sunbird (female) Nectarinia lotenia

Maidenahalli

noreply@blogger.com (AB Apana) — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 01:30:00 +0000

Had motored down to Maidenahalli with a few friends the other day. It was a good trip with new species added.

It was a delight to photograph the dainty blackbuck.

Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malarbaricus

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata