.::InfraRed Photography::.

Preset White Balance Infra Red Photographs using Photoshop

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 18:06:00 +0000

Preset White Balance Infra Red Photographs using Photoshop

One of the terms and conditions to shoot IR using filter is by setting the white balance (or preset WB (white balance)).
Undone or unsuccessfully WB preset on the DSLR may creating IR photographs in bright red color.

Do no't delete those photos, yet..
Nikon Capture or Adobe Photoshop are proven to be a handy software in re-touch the unwanted items in your camera.

Two main conditions in retouching IR photographs with wrong WB setting are:
1. File (s) have to be in RAW or NEF format (for Nikon cameras)
2. You have the Camera RAW for photoshop CS file(s)

Here's the How-To in setting WB using Photoshop CS:

1. Open the file RAW or NEF that you want to modify using photoshop CS.
you will see the dialog box of Camera Raw as follows:

2. In White Balance dialog box, choose Custom (see picture)

3. Choose WB Tool (I) on the upper-left tool, the third one..
Next step is to choose the object in the photo that you want to pick as Preset WB, and click that object.
For the example, i clicked on the leaves. The red-dish color will turn into brownish, like the pic below.

4. According to my experiments, more brown the sky is, the blue it will be (after the channel swap) using channel mixer. Find your preferable tone through experiments..

5. If you haven't satisfied with the result of step 3 above, repeat it by choosing other object, such as: sky, cloud, the edge of the cloud itself, leaves, tree, etc and see the new results..

With one IR photo, we can get lots of tones only by changing the WB setting.

Hope this post can help those who have difficulties in pre-setting WB..

Feedback & Questions HERE

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 15:28:00 +0000

Thank you for visiting this blog.
I'm very surprised that many people found out about this new blog.
In order to get more involved with this blog's visitors, i should be able to know what you want/need to know and help (if i could) you in digital infrared photography stuffs.
so, feel free to write inputs, comments, (especially) questions, feedback, even donation (just kidding..) to me at irphotographyblog@gmail.com
and i will respond as soon as i can. thank you again for visiting.
have a nice day :)

What are the techniques used to maximize IR in photoshop?

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 01:59:00 +0000

Many photographers still edit their IR photos using photoshop..

Based on their experiences, most of the techniques they used are: (all of the techniques require at least 2 layers.. one for background)

1. to edit skin tone: color balance (masking first), change the opacity

2. to edit the background color: levels

3. "fix" the contrast: curves, hue saturation.. (many prefer curves because if you used hue saturation too much, the detail of the image would be washed out)

4. too lazy to edit: auto color

5. play around the model clothes/landscape elements color: channel mixer.. some prefer selective color

6. add the dimension: burn & dodge

7. use other unusual techniques you like.. because, if i may quote, "Photographs in infrared show quite unusual tonality, different than that to which we are used, and this may make them esthetically pleasing, at least in many cases. Which, of course, is a matter of taste."

List of Lenses which produce Hot Spot

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Fri, 07 Nov 2008 16:17:00 +0000

Nikkor :

Ai-S 18 mm f/3.5 Nikkor

Ai-S 20 mm f/2.8 Nikkor

Ai-S 24 mm f/2.8 Nikkor

Ai-S 28 mm f/2 Nikkor

Ai-S 35 mm f/1.4 Nikkor

Ai-S 35 mm f/2 Nikkor

PC 35 mm f/2.8 Nikkor

Ai-S 25-50 mm f/4 Nikkor

Canon :

EF-S 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 - often

Canon EF-S 10-22mm/3.5-4.5 USM -> need clarification

Canon EF 20 mm f/2.8

Canon EF 24 mm f/2.8

Canon EF 50 mm f/1.4

Canon EF 50 mm f/2.5 macro

Canon EF 85 mm f/1.8

Canon EF 16-35 mm f/2.8 L

Canon EF 24-85 mm f/3.5-4.5 USM

Canon EF 28-70 mm f/2.8 L

Canon EF 35-80 f/4.0-5.6

Canon EF 70-200 mm f/2.8 L IS

Canon 200/2.8L produces a hot spot after f10-f11

Tokina :

AF 12-24mm f/4 124 AF Pro DX

Sigma :

12-24mm F/4.5-5.6 EX DG ASPHERICAL HSM (sweetspot)

sigma 10-20 (sweetspot)

Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 EX DC

Sigma 30 mm f/1.4

Sigma 70-200 mm f/2.8

Tamron :

SP AF17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical [IF]

Tamron SP AF 24-135 mm f/3.5-5.6 AD aspherical macro

Tamron AF 70-300 mm f/4.0-5.6 LD macro

Tamron 17-35 mm f/2.8-4.0 SP AF Di

Tamron 18-200 XR Di II LD Aspherical [IF]

Tamron SP AF28-75/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF)

Olympus :

Olympus Zuiko 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6

Carl-Zeiss :

Carl Zeiss Planar T* 50 mm f/1.4 (for Contax)

IR using Nikon D40x + filter Hoya r72

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Fri, 07 Nov 2008 14:39:00 +0000

Question: i have nikon D40 + filter hoya r72..
if i want to avoid the darkness of the image, how to set the speed (minimum) ??

Answer:
using D40, you should set the settings to RAW, add tripod, software nikon capture NX, and NOISEWARE, well, and photoshop..

to avoid dark image, first, shoot at the place with enough level of sun light.. (d'oh)..
set the speed at 1/10.

set wb to auto.. it's the best if you're using nikon d40/x

don't be dissapointed if the result (your photo) turning into red, cause there's nikon capture for fixing the white balance..

then, set wb using grey point (in nikon capture NX).. the result would turned into absolute darkness.. raise the level of exposure to 0.5..

after that, save as at the max quality (jpeg format)..

open the file using photoshop..
raise the level of exposure +1..

then, you play the colour using channel mixer..

hope this could help..

Easy Way of Duotones, or More

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Thu, 16 Oct 2008 01:13:00 +0000

A duotone is a form of printing that uses two colors of ink, one of which is often black. Duotones were developed in the printing process as a method of expanding a grayscale image's tonal range, allowing reproduction of delicate colors.

In Photoshop, you can use more than 150 preset dutones, tritones (black ink and two other colors), and quadtones (black ink and three other colors). When working with an RGB image, you must first convert it to 8-bit Grayscale (Image > Mode > 8-Bits/Channel; Image > Mode > Grayscale) before you get to the Duotone menu. (Image > Mode > Duotone.)
Make a selection in the dialog window from the Duotone, Tritone, or Quadtone menu, and then pick the specific colors to make up your new image.

Getting Started IR-ing

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 03:16:00 +0000

So, are you interested in IR? Well, first of all you need to have a D-SLR camera with a lens that can use filters. Then you need to buy an IR filter, there are a few out there and the main difference is the range of wavelengths that the filter lets through.

The well-known IR filter many photographers use is the Hoya R72, but feel free to try other filters yourself.

Another piece of equipment that is important is the tripod. With D-SLR cameras it’s impossible to take IR photographs without proper stabilizer.

Then, what are the images that suit perfectly using IR? Landscapes.

First, you need to understand the concept of capturing invisible light to the human eye. The world looks totally different in Infrared. A blue sky will appear black, or very dark, while foliage will get a distinct white color. This creates amazing contrast in the image. Due to the long exposure time, portraits and other non-static sceneries can be hard to capture, this is one of the reasons why most IR photographs are landscape shots.

You need to test and see what you can come up with; it can take a long time before you fully grasp the idea of capturing and composing with infrared light.

IR at Night

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 02:37:00 +0000

IR surely can be used in nighttime photography, but the result for me is not that exciting, because although man-made lightings do have quite a lot of IR light in it, it will appear (tendenciously) in one-two colors.. i prefer to shoot using regular DSLR during the nighttime because the result would be much better than using IR camera.

And, for that particular reason, the reason that indicates IR can be optimized during daytime only, IR shooting during nighttime is just not my preference.

Feel free to express yourself though..

IR in Photoshop

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 01:24:00 +0000

You also can fake IR effects in Photoshop, although the result might not satisfy your hunger for the IR sensations.. Well, here are the 5-easy-settings to bring IR effect in your photos using Adobe Photoshop.

1.) Go to Image – Adjustments – Channel Mixer (first you might want to duplicate your layer before create this trick)

2.) Check "Monochrome" at the bottom. (Leave it unchecked for a odd color effect.)

3.) Set R = + 100%, G = + 200% and B = minus 200% (- 200%)

4.) set constant as needed for the correct brightness, usually about - 25%.

5.) Click OK

DOs and DON'Ts in IR

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Sat, 11 Oct 2008 09:00:00 +0000

1. Consider the conditions of the filters

You need to select the correct thread-size glass or gelatin filter holder and mount the filter normally (if your DSLR has a lens threaded for filters), and since the case most DSLR cameras don't have those kind of lenses, you'll have to make special adjustments to mount the filter. Gelatin filters can be cut to size with scissors and taped in place.

To increase the classic infrared effect filters are placed in front of the lens or inside the camera. These filters are designed to reduce the total of blue and green light reaching the film, or block all visible light to trace only infrared light. Visible light arrays from 400 nanometers (violet) to 700 nanometers (red).

2. Lens preference

For ease of focus, use wide angle lens to increase your "depth of field", but you may try other different lenses for experiments. The easiest thing to prefer the right lens is by choosing the lens which are marked with a mark (usually colored in red), to show how to correct them for IR in focusing. At most conditions, it usually best to stop down the lens aperture by (minimum) two stops from wide open. This will increase your chance in getting the better quality of the image and has the advantage since the DOP is raised.

3. Calculating exposure

Calculating exposure is somewhat easy. The problem with most camera and hand held light meters are that they are neither calibrated nor filtered for infrared light. Different meters also differ in their sensitivity to infrared light. So, here are little simple rules of thumb which should allow you to get some useful results. These rules are based on the "sunny 16" rule.

For normal film, the sunny 16 rule simply states: In bright sunshine with an aperture of f16 use a shutter speed of 1/ISO.

So at f16 using a normal 100 ISO film in bright sunshine you should use a shutter speed of 1/100.

With film each maker provides some guess ISO values for you to try. You usually have to guess and bracket, since only experience will enlighten you what works well when. In other words, your light meter reads light, not IR. Even if you find an ISO value that works well one day the ratio of IR to visible light is always changing so any ISO value won't work consistently.

With digital just keep trying different values till it looks right on the screen. Easy.

4. Storing

For non-digital DSLR, it is best to store your IR film from places that keep the film refrigerated or frozen, especially if you do not think to use the film right away. If you want to use it you have to take out the film from the storage (fridge/other containers) up to room temperature before you load it to the camera. This will avoid condensation forming on the film. In general, Infrared films are pretty much needs to be treat in the samecondition as other types of films. Keep it cool.

5. Focusing

The accurate point of focus will depend on which filter you use as this order which wavelengths are most important in your image. Most people move towards or to the red infra-red mark on most lenses. If your lens is missing this mark then push it to a slightly closer focus. The rule of thumb is to move the lens forwards 1/4 of one percent of the focal length of the lens if you do not have an infrared focusing mark.

Note: don’t stop down too far! Diffraction is twice as bad with long IR waves as it is with visible light! Stopping down to minimum aperture is a bad choice. Infrared Ektachrome focuses normally. Given the fact that Ektachrome IR records from yellow/orange till the IR area, this is no surprise; it is a compromise between focus of the visible and of the IR.

6. Flash Guns and Bulbs

Electronic flash guns and flash bulbs discharge plenty of infrared light together with visible light. This means that you can use fill-in flash and flash alone for shooting in infrared. You will need to calibrate your flash for the infrared film of alternative through test exposures.

The use of flash allows a fascinating possibility - you can use a filter over the flash to reduce or eliminate the visible light output and take infrared photos in the dark without any apparent light. This means that you can take photos without out disturbing your subject or alerting them to the fact that a photo has been taken. If there is no ambient light then an infrared filter over the flash gun is all that is required. If there is ambient light then a filter will also be required over the lens as most infrared film is sensitive to some visible light.

7. Post-photograph

Process as soon as possible. This is good advice for any film but especially for IR film which seems to be more prone to fogging. There are many professional photo graphics labs which will process infrared film.

8. Printing

Choose your basic printing exposure to bring out the uniqueness you were using. As with any black and white print you can also tone or tint the picture to increase its mood or highlight a particular element.

The printing process lends itself particularly well to printing infrared negatives. Grainy blacks and wonderful detailed midtones together with subtle tones in the highlights. Colors depend to a great level upon choice of paper as certain papers produce their own characteristic colors without the use of toners.

Knowledge : Hot mirror and IR filter

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 16:09:00 +0000

View from the top

G= Area under the color Green = Filter that can be searched with all types of cut-off

B=Blue=Custom made

R=Red=Filter Danger that occasionally can cause damages to the sensor if we do not handle with extra attention. (R1=Refuse visible light with black, R2 Refuse visible light with black filter + Dichroic)

1/2/3/4/5/6/7/8/9= All of the types of hot mirror from the available DSLR.

1/2/3/6/7/8/9 = hot mirror that very very very difficult to be "hacked"

4/5 = Hot mirror/low pass

7 = hot mirror/low pass that starts to break

Welcome to IRphotography.blogspot.com

noreply@blogger.com (ratser) — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 08:18:00 +0000

First of all, thank you for coming to this blog. Like its name, this blog is created to share all ideas, thoughts, tips, and tricks related to IR (InfraRed) photography. In IR photography, the film that we used is very sensitive to IR light, like the light from the sun.

I have tried several times in getting IR photographs and never get bored with the results they produced. I think that it would be great if I can share what I know about this cool stuff with you, especially for non-pro photographers like myself whom in the beginning struggling with the new concept of this technique. Hopefully I can help so you don't have to deal with those irritating difficulties again.

I will regularly update my blog and will share all of the information I know about IR photography with the rest of my blog visitors.

For me, IR photography can make my (or your) photos look great and better because the effects generated are always refreshing and unique. Another surprising element that you get from this effect is the color that different from the ordinary photos you've taken, even after using certain filters, bringing such emotions and ambients into the photo(s) you've taken.

Brief history of IR photography can be found in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infrared_photography.