Installations

1968 Ford Mustang GT - Car Audio Install

lewer_andrew@hotmail.com (Andrew Lewer) — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 07:47:35 +0000

Here's an article showing off an installation i did recently for a customer, he rang me wanting to know if i could design / install a system in his Ford Mustang. Naturally i assumed it was one of the newer versions, well i couldnt be more surprised when i arrived at his house to see a genuine GT 350H in the shed. He had recently imported it from the U.S. and was looking for advice on a complete sound system.

4 x 12s and 3000wrms in a Kia Sportage

lewer_andrew@hotmail.com (Andrew Lewer) — Sun, 28 Mar 2010 09:51:45 +0000

4 x 12s and 3000wrms in a Kia Sportage

Well this build was done for another customer of mine, he called me wanting to upgrade his current system, which consisted of 2 Clarion 1500wrms monoblock amplifiers and 2 Clarion 12" subs in separate sealed boxes. His main requests were a ported box to fit 4 x 12" subwoofers (Kenwood) and for it to be under the window line (a tough task).

Car Audio on a Budget, The $1000 System

webmaster@decibelcar.com (Andrew L) — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 17:25:06 +0000

The $1000 Budget System. {mos_fb_discuss:4}
The $1000 budget unlocks a lot more potential to build a great system. At this price point you’re looking at adding amplifiers and subwoofers to your system, so you are in “big aftermarket” territory now.

$1000 a bit much ? Click here for the $500 plan !

Car Audio on a Budget, the $500 Recession Buster

webmaster@decibelcar.com (Andrew L) — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 03:04:27 +0000

Planning a System on a Budget

Firstly, we’ll start with a $500 budget system. {mos_fb_discuss:4}
Just because you have a thin wallet doesnt mean you need to live without a good sounding stereo! You wont be winning SPL competitions with these systems, but they're a huge improvement over any stock system.

Wanna spend a bit more ? $1000 System

CRX Installs

webmaster@decibelcar.com (Administrator) — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 19:39:59 +0000

This page contains live image materials that can only be directly accessed via Decibelcar.com
Sample pictures of CRX Street class enclosures and systems.

Front speakers in an SF5 forester.

Dylan.miazek@gmail.com (Dylan Miazek) — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 04:43:25 +0000

In this DIY I will show you how to properly install a set of after market speakers in the stock locations in an SF5 (MY97-02) Subaru Forester. We will be replacing the tiny standard speaker wire with larger gauge wire so we don't run into any problems when using large amplifiers to power the speakers. This also makes installing an amplifier easier as you wont need to hack into the speaker wires behind the Head Unit (HU) to get power from the amp into the speakers in the door.

Head - Unit Removal and Installation - 2003 Mitsubishi Magna

lewer_andrew@hotmail.com (Andrew Lewer) — Sat, 21 Aug 2010 07:15:04 +0000

OK today we have a 2003 Mitsubishi Magna tutorial on how to remove the standard stereo and then install a new aftermarket one.

This may apply to other models of the Magna and varients sold elsewhere (Mitsubishi Diamante, Verada and V3000).

Any advice given is exactly that, ADVICE. You choose to attempt these steps at your (and your cars) own risk. DecibelCar.com are not responsible for any damage caused by carrying out these steps.

Anyway, here we go.

Headunit Installation in 2002-2006 Lancer

webmaster@decibelcar.com (Administrator) — Sat, 27 Feb 2010 17:32:11 +0000

Removing / Installing an Aftermarket Head-Unit into 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer:

Note – This guide was done using a 2006 Model, but I believe this applies to models 2002-2006.

Step 1, Tools Required:

· Flat blade screwdriver and small section of rag or trim removal tool

· Phillips head screwdriver and / or cordless drill with Phillips head bit

· Side cutters / pliers

· Wire strippers

· Soldering Iron / Solder

· Electrical tape

Step 2, Dash Removal:

· Start by removing the 3 HVAC control knobs, these just pop off.

· You’ll notice two small Phillips head screws that are behind the two larger knobs, undo these and store in a safe place.

· Using a flat blade screw driver and the rag to avoid marking the dash pieces, “prize” around the outside of the stereo / HVAC surround, as shown by the pic below. Slowly work your way around until the panel becomes loose, once this is done just pull it out towards yourself and place the panel in a safe place.

Step 4, Stereo Removal:

· Once you have the surround removed, you’ll notice 2 Phillips head screws on each side of the stereo, undo these 4 screws and store in a safe place.

· Pull the stereo outwards carefully, once you’ve got it out far enough to reach behind it, unplug the main wiring loom by pressing on the pin in the centre of the plug and pulling away from the unit. Also remove the antenna plug by pulling away from the unit.

· The stereo is now free from the car, place in a safe location.

Step 5, Wire In New Loom:

· Pull back some of the conduit (ribbed plastic tube covering wiring loom) behind the stereo plug and unwrap approximately 3” (75mm) of the electrical tape wound around the wiring loom.

Now this part is a little difficult, but if you can strip the insulation of a wire and solder then it’s not so hard, just a little tight working around so many wires. This method doesn’t involve cutting the standard plug off, enabling the original stereo to be easily re-installed at a later date if required.

· Approximately 1” (25mm) behind the stereo plug, strip back just the insulation from one of the wires listed below, about ¼ of an inch (7mm) is enough. You should see the inner conductor of the wire. Only do one wire at a time.

· Now, grab the new wiring loom from the aftermarket stereo, cut all wires so they are the same length (keeping any fuses etc).

· Strip back the insulation about ¼ of an inch (7mm) from each wire, excluding the power antenna wire, remote control wire and dimmer wire (blue / white stripe, blue, orange / white stripe). Please see picture illustrating this below.

· With the correct wire (see below for which wire to connect to which), twist the copper conductor of the new wiring loom around the exposed conductor of the cars wiring loom.

· Using your soldering iron and solder wire, solder the join ensuring the solder “soaks” into each conductor, indicating a solid connection.

· Allow the join to cool and wrap in a small length of electrical tape (2” / 50mm is adequate).

· Repeat these steps for each wire as listed below, ensuring each connection has been soldered properly and even more importantly, insulated with tape properly.

· Once done, wrap the whole lot in electrical tape, from the back of the original plug to the start of the original electrical tape you unwrapped. This method is a neat, solid way of connecting a new wiring loom to an existing loom.

Wiring Colors:

Car Wiring Colors Connects to Aftermarket Wiring Color Wire Meaning

Red with Black Stripe -------------------------------------- Yellow ------------------------------------- Constant Power

Blue with Yellow Stripe ------------------------------------- Red ----------------------------------------- ACC Power

Black with Yellow Stripe ---------------------------------- Black --------------------------------------------- Earth

Red with White Stripe ------------------------------------- White ------------------------------------- Front L Speaker +

Red with Blue Stripe ---------------------------- White with Black Stripe --------------------------- Front L Speaker –

Red ------------------------------------------------------------ Grey -------------------------------------- Front R Speaker +

Green ------------------------------------------------ Grey with Black Stripe -------------------------- Front R Speaker –

White with Blue Stripe ------------------------------------ Green -------------------------------------- Rear L Speaker +

Yellow with Red Stripe --------------------------- Green with Black Stripe ------------------------- Rear L Speaker –

Light Green ------------------------------------------------- Purple -------------------------------------- Rear R Speaker +

Yellow with Green Stripe ------------------------ Purple with Black Stripe ------------------------- Rear R Speaker –

Step 6, Fitting Standard Brackets to Aftermarket Stereo:

· For this step you’ll need the standard stereo again, you’ll notice it has two metal brackets on either side of the stereo, undo the two screws on either side and place standard stereo in a safe place.

· Once you have the brackets, line them up on the new stereo (remove the metal “cage” if the new stereo has one fitted). There are plenty of different holes on each side, this allows for easy installation using a number of different brackets in different cars. What you need to do is slide the bracket forward and backwards along the side of the stereo while looking at the two mounting holes, there should be a spot where both holes on the bracket line up with 2 holes on the stereo. Once you’ve done this (see pic below) use the two screws from the old stereo and screw the bracket on. DO NOT use another type of screw, especially a longer version. The proper screws are only 5mm deep, this is because any deeper will result in internal components of the stereo getting damaged. If the old screws will not “grab” into the new stereo, you may use the screws that are provided with the new stereo (as in second picture below).

· Repeat the above step for the other side, ensuring it lines up with the same holes.

Step 7, Installing Aftermarket Stereo:

· Remove the outer plastic surround from the face of the new stereo; it is not required for this vehicle.

· Holding the stereo with one hand from the front, position it close to the stereo cavity in the dash and plug in the new loom. Also plug in the antenna lead (the socket is usually located on the opposite side of the wiring plug).

· After you’ve plugged the wiring and antenna, slowly (and carefully) insert the stereo into the cavity, ensuring the wiring doesn’t catch on any section of the dash until it is sitting fully in and the mounting holes on each bracket line up with the corresponding holes in the dash.

· Using the original mounting screws, install them and tighten well.

· Before re-installing the stereo / HVAC surround, turn the ignition to accessories. Turn the unit on if required and check operation of all connected speakers and memory. If all is fine, turn the ignition off and leave for 10 seconds, then turn back on. If the power connections have been made properly, the unit will turn on automatically and have memory of the last radio station you had it set to.

· Once the unit is operating normally, re-install the stereo / HVAC surround, taking care not to scratch any panels etc. When you are satisfied the surround is in place, re-install the two small screws at the bottom of the larger dials you removed initially. Re-fit HVAC control knobs, making sure they go back on properly (they can only go on one way).

You’re done, enjoy your new stereo! Also remember it can be removed and the original stereo re-installed with little effort.

Headunit Installion in VN-VT Commodore, Calais, Ute & Statesman

webmaster@decibelcar.com (Administrator) — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 15:49:10 +0000

This works for all VR & VS Commodore models and should work for Statesman or Ute as well. Not sure about models not fitted with Climate Control though...

First of all, turn the engine off.

Put the gear shift into D, and make sure the hand brake is on FULL. Undo the zipper on the hand brakes booty.

Open the center console, remove the junk, and remove the carpet.

Headunit Installion in X2-X3 Hyundai Excel & Accent

webmaster@decibelcar.com (Administrator) — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 15:52:49 +0000

Removing console and Fitting a HU in an X2 or X3 Excel/Accent.

First of all, turn the engine off.

Put the gear shifter into 3rd gear (gets it out of the road) & make sure the hand brake is on.

On the underside of dash panel, remove the two plastic plugs. Undo the 4x 10mm bolts holding the under-panel guard in place (there's one on each corner)