Intelligent Travel Blog

Where The Wild Things Were

2009-07-16T18:15:15Z

Much to the consternation of tiger enthusiasts, reverence for these once-mythical beasts seems to be at an all-time low. The BBC reports that one of India's fabled tiger parks, Panna National Park in Madhya Pradesh, has admitted that its Royal Bengal tiger population is now believed to be zero. The main culprit, according to an investigative probe? Poaching.

This saddens me, particularly, as barely three years ago I came within several feet of one of these most majestic of Panna's endagered residents (image, above). Though it was a short encounter (we, the tourists atop elephants in the bush, were limited to a few minutes of viewing and photographing, so as not to upset the shy animal), it remains my favorite recollection from India. Going on tiger safaris is certainly iconic and popular, but there is a specific disclaimer given to most tours: Tiger sightings are increasingly rare and are by no means guaranteed. With the knowledge that finding one of Panna's then-healthy population of 24 tigers in the park's 210-square-mile area was a textbook needle-in-haystack situation, I accepted this experience as one to hold in awe. And I was lucky to be able to do so. It now grieves me to think that experiences such as mine are on the extinction path.

"It's difficult to believe people are still poaching [tigers] given all the projects set up to educate about the benefits of wildlife...I guess the short term gain is just too tempting," says Emma Nielson, who was one of my tour leaders in India. The short term gain referred to is in the contraband of tiger bones, claws, and skins, which are superstitious amulets and ingredients coveted in countries such as China and Korea. Recent years have seen a rise in poaching cartels that have outsmarted authorities, or included them through corruption, not unlike the business of organized drug smuggling.

Panna is the second park in India to succumb to tiger depletion, the first one being Sariska in Rajasthan--though it is reported that at least one more in Madhya Pradesh has fallen from grace as well. The estimated number of tigers in India hovers around 1,400--less than half the censused 3,642 five years ago. But dwindling figures are not news at all: a century ago, they numbered around 40,000.

India's tiger conservation efforts are nearly four decades old now. With sobering statistics came initial legislation which brought about the hunting ban on tigers, and the creation of Project Tiger in the early 1970s as an endeavor to track tiger numbers, educate about their importance, and protect them and their eco-systems from the hazards of habitat encroachment and poaching. The project has since tripled the number of tiger reserves established in India, while implementing strategies such as voluntary village relocation away from the reserves. Unfortunately, not all efforts to protect or promote the big cats are handled appropriately.

When signs that Panna's tiger numbers were critically low already in 2007, a state-sanctioned policy of "tiger-shifting" (relocating female individuals from other nearby parks, with intent to mate with local males) was proposed. Panna received two tigresses, one from Bandhavgarh National Park and one from Kanha National Park. Sadly, this proved ineffective as the lone male specimen, which authorities believed was there, had since disappeared. Altogether, this systematic failure in preservation brings to light a more general issue: Madhya Pradesh's terrible record of environmental conservation.

A 2007 study by the National Tiger Conservation Authority indicated that the total number of tigers in that state was down 60% to 276. In 2009, that number is reported to be 232. This potentially places Madhya Pradesh--known in India and abroad as The Tiger State--below other Indian states in tiger numbers, dealing a blow to what should be a source of pride. Instead, the world looks on as the local government gives little import to what should be a flagship concern.

For someone who came face-to-face with one of Panna's very last residents, it is sorrowful to realise how greed, mismanagement, and dubious politics have doomed my treasured experience to nothing more than a memory and a few photographs.

Photos: Stefan Caiafa

Sound Tracks: Brazilian Samba

2009-07-16T16:22:50Z

Every trip should have a soundtrack, so we've asked CJ Fahey with Nat Geo Music to select artists from their catalog whose songs will inspire you to get going.

I have a ready answer whenever someone asks me the quintessential travel question, "What's your dream vacation?" - Brazil! My attraction to Brazil started with the music, but the added bonus of beautiful beaches, small bathing suits, and cultural diversity - African, European, and indigenous American influences mixed together - sealed the deal.

Thanks to films like City of God, people outside Brazil have become more aware of the difficulties plaguing the country - poverty, corruption, and violence. But the stereotype of a vibrant tropical paradise still thrives and, from what I hear, is not undeserved. The music video to "Rio de Janeiro" by samba legend Elza Soares glosses over the harsh realities and shows Brazil at its best: funky, sexy, and sunny. The singer's life and career is a story unto itself: married at 12, she lost three children to hunger, but later married one of Brazil's greatest soccer legends, Garrincha. Her career had ups and downs, having peaked in the 1960s, but this video comes from her 2004 album "Vivo Feliz," part of her late-in-life comeback.

One day I will make it to Brazil, but until then I'll content myself with some of the amazing music the country has produced.

[Video: Elza Soares--"Rio de Janeiro"]

Learn more: Find more Nat Geo music from Brazil here. And check out these other recommended Brazilian music videos from Nat Geo Music:

Sealed with a Kiss

2009-07-16T14:35:45Z

Who among us wouldn't want to cuddle up to an adorable seal? Well be wary -- as the cute aquatic creatures do give killer hugs -- and their antics can get dangerous. An orphaned monk seal named Badem that lives just off Turkey's Mediterranean coast was so playful with humans that she injured a few tourists -- and was eventually sequestered by the Turkish government, who worried she'd frighten visitors away. Marine ecologist and National Geographic Fellow Enric Sala got called in last year, along with Turkey's Underwater Research Society (SAD-AFAG), to help teach Badem not to hurt the ones she loves, and after a bit of training, she was released back into the wild last fall.

Check out a series of fabulous photos from her lessons over at National Geographic's BlogWILD.

Photo: Enric Sala

Daily Radar: 07.16.09

2009-07-16T12:00:00Z

The Chiang Mai zoo in Bangkok has painted its elephants to celebrate the arrival of the zoo's first baby panda. The elephants are cute... but no word yet on what PETA thinks.
Website ResponsibleTravel.com just launched a collection of hotels that respect local people and environments. All of the hotels in the Responsible Hotels of the World group have been rated for their commitment to responsible tourism, and travelers using the site are asked to review their stay upon their return.
Flying Fido? Pet Airways had its inaugural flight yesterday. The pet-only airline took off from Republic Airport in Farmingdale, New York, and flights on all of the airline's five planes are sold out for the next two months.
New York City's Restaurant Week started on Sunday. Check out the website for participating eateries.
Jon Jarvis, the former director of the National Park's Pacific West Region, has been named the new National Parks director by President Obama. Jarvis has also worked for Craters of the Moon, Mount Rainier, and North Cascades National Parks. The National Park Service is preparing for its 100th anniversary in 2016.

Photo: Reuters via DailyMail.co.uk

Sleep in an Incan Temple

2009-07-15T18:40:42Z

Hacienda San Agustín de Callo, nestled in Ecuador's "Avenue of the Volcanoes" (and featured in a story of the same name by Charles Kulander in our April 2009 issue), calls itself an "archaeological estancia" and there's good reason for that. The hacienda's formal dining room and chapel were built around 1440 by one of the last Incan emperors, Huayna-Cápac, out of intricately carved volcanic stone. Eighteenth-century Spanish colonial additions and 19th-century republican styles were piled over top of the Incan imperial architecture. Layer upon layer of Ecuadorian pre-Columbian, colonial, and contemporary history co-mingle and captivate at site.

Archaeologist Dr. David Brown of the University of Texas at Austin has been excavating at Callo for close to 15 years, with the help, we're proud to add, of two National Geographic Society grants. Brown told me that the quality of the stonework at Callo, the finely fitted wall blocks and the hulking double-jamb doors, suggest that it was no ordinary site during Inca times and was quite probably a temple or shrine dedicated to the even now still-active Cotopaxi volcano that rises above it to the site's east. In addition to the two extant rooms that are now part of the hacienda, Brown has unearthed the foundations and low walls of six other buildings that might have once formed a symmetrical compound.
Since Inca times, San Agustín de Callo has also played host to an Augustinian monastery, been a temporary home of the French Geodesic mission of the 1740s that worked to better understand the shape of our planet, and acted as a stopping place of German scientist and explorer Alexander von Humboldt. The hacienda was purchased by current manager Mignon Plaza's grandfather, Leónidas Plaza Gutierrez, who served two terms as Ecuador's president, in 1921.

To get an inside scoop on San Agustín de Callo, especially its food, I got in touch with owner Mignon Plaza.

Because two rooms of the hacienda were built by the Incas, are there any restrictions about opening them up to the public?

The house and property are registered in the National Institute of Patrimony and Culture, where we solicit permission for archaeological excavations. No impediment has been established restricting the use of the Inca rooms.

What's the cuisine like at the hacienda? Your site calls it "authentic Andean." What does that mean?

We offer a combination of typical Andean dishes so guests get to savor the excellent Ecuadorian food. Most are sourced from the Andes region, though we also offer some items from the coastal region, such as plantain soup called sopa de bolón de verde, and some variations of ceviche. We try to make the dishes healthier and lighter to digest, give the altitude (9,842 feet).

Some of our guests' favorite dishes are the locro potato soup and llapingachos (a potato and cheese patty with onion fried in a heavy bronze pan). Quinoa is an Andean cereal that the Incas used as a staple. It is delicious and has high protein content. We make a fine quinoa soup, quinoa salad (with olive oil, tomato, and parsley), quinoa croquets, and use lightly fried quinoa to top certain salads.

Our breakfasts consist of homemade butter, yogurt, granola, an amazing assortment of egg dishes, cereals, pancakes, French toast, and fresh exotic juices. I tell our guests it's best to be well-fed at breakfast just in case you get lost up in the mountains!

Is most of the food served at your hacienda sourced/grown locally?

There are many local markets where we buy freshly harvested goods of great diversity. A market takes place almost every day. We do grow lots of our own products and we are always planting potatoes, broad beans, corn, grains, and peas.

Check in: There's plenty to do if you stay at one of the hacienda's 11 rooms: go horseback riding, mountain biking, or visit a nearby rose plantation or indigenous market. To see more photos from our April feature on Ecuador's haciendas, check out the photo gallery here on our site.

Photos: Pablo Corral Vega

Photo Flashback: Yellowstone National Park

2009-07-15T16:30:45Z

There is perhaps nothing I love more than poking through the National Geographic photo archives. Which is why I adore the two galleries we currently have on our website, featuring classic images from Yellowstone and Yosemite National Parks. The shot above, which has never before been published, depicts the snowmobile vehicle tours available in Yellowstone park in 1967. The caption reads:

"Along the Lower Geyser Basin we waved at sightseers standing beside the tanklike snowmobiles that had brought them over the snowbound road from West Yellowstone. The day is perhaps not far off when large number of visitors, bundled up in snowmobiles, will see much more of the park's winter beauty. When that day comes, fleets of steel-treaded half-tracks will rumble across a land that once knew only the snowshoes of Indians and trappers."

For more on the parks, and to see other classic photo galleries, visit our National Parks guide. Want more images from the National Geographic vault? Let us know what you'd like to see and we'll dig through the archives to find them.

Photo: William Albert Allard

The Newest Mile High Club: Laviators

2009-07-15T14:10:23Z

File this under odd ways to entertain yourself during a flight: Heather Poole, a flight attendant and the Galley Gossip blogger over at Gadling, recently discovered that the latest mile high club to grace the skies is completely "G" rated. What's their common bond? Taking photos of themselves in airplane bathrooms. Poole noticed the trend while searching photos on Flickr, and quickly dubbed the self-portrait artists "Laviators" (MSNBC quickly followed up with a story of their own on the trend). Here, you'll find a music video of her findings put together by a fan.

What's your take? Odd and gross or quirky fun?

[Gadling, MSNBC]

Daily Radar: 07.15.09

2009-07-15T12:00:00Z

Calamari fans, unite! An earthquake in California caused dozens of squid to wash up on a beach in La Jolla. Scientists can't quite explain what caused the squid to end up ashore, but residents pitched in to help get the animals back in the water.
Washington D.C.'s W Hotel has finally opened, and with it the new rooftop cocktail lounge POV. The lounge undoubtedly boasts some of the best views of the city, with the Washington Monument only a few steps away from the hotel.
Helsinki trash cans (yes, trash cans) are talking back. The trash receptacles will say "thank you" (in six languages) when trash is thrown inside.
There's a green app for that. Check out Grist's round-up of the best green iPhone applications, like GoOrganic (to find local organic grocery stores), UniBus (to find the next bus in some 20 cities), and Twavel, a combined carbon-calculator and social network.

Video: YouTube

Happy Bastille Day!

2009-07-14T20:30:02Z

Today is an exciting day for Francophiles around the world: Bastille Day. Having just spent time in France, I wanted to learn more about this holiday and the history behind it.

Bastille Day became an official French holiday in 1880, but the reason for the holiday happened several years prior. On the morning of July 14, 1789, citizens of the country stormed the Bastille prison in Paris, overturning the absolute--and arbitary--power of King Louis XVI. This event marked the start of the French Revolution, forever changing the way France was governed. As the French Embassy notes on its website, by storming the Bastille, the citizens of France were stating that "the king's power was no longer absolute: power should be based on the Nation and be limited by a separation of powers."
The French flag came about during this time, and was created to represent the French Republic's three ideals: "Liberty, Equality and Fraternity" for all French citizens.

Today, Bastille Day is celebrated all around the world through parades, food and fireworks, with the biggest celebration off the Champs-Elysées in Paris. This particular year, France is playing host to a group of Indian soldiers, and celebrating the 120th anniversary of the Eiffel Tower.

You can help celebrate the holiday by joining a local celebration, eating French food, or even just wishing a French friend a happy Bastille Day by saying "Joyeux Quatorze Juillet!"

To learn more about the history of the French Revolution and Bastille Day, visit the cultural services of the French Embassy. Feel like reveling in French culture? Choose from among the many France-inspired titles on from our Ultimate Travel Library, check out our Places of a Lifetime guide to Paris and our Free Paris guide, and view more pictures of Paris and southern France from our photo galleries.

How do you plan to celebrate Bastille Day?

Photo: Catherine Karnow, from the March 2008 issue of Traveler

Island Hopping in Croatia

2009-07-14T19:00:32Z

With some 1,100 islands, islets, and reefs in the pristine Adriatic, Croatia's Dalmatian Coast rivals the Amalfi Coast in terms of drama, beauty, and history.

There is no question that these islands offer unforgettable views, a wealth of cultural and historical experiences, and a diverse list of outdoor activities--but how do you get there? From cruises to catamarans, or even kayaking 400 miles, you can travel from island to island. While all of these have their advantages, an emerging trend on the coast is island hopping by ferry.
Taking the ferry isn't just about saving some extra money, it's about creating a local experience. Jadrolinija operates the majority of the ferries in Croatia with the help of a few local companies (and its website is in English, a major plus). There are passenger and car ferries, and while the main purpose of these vessels is to shuttle commuters, the ferries are becoming a favorite of backpackers. The ships give travelers the much-sought freedom to venture to top attractions and destinations unknown.

While the ferries save you money, keep in mind that there are some strings attached. First, it's important to plan ahead. Several ferries only operate during the summer. Even during the busy months, the ships have sporadic schedules. So if you're short on time, you'll have to be organized. You should also read the schedule carefully to analyze your total travel time. One journey that takes a few hours one day could take up to 20 the next. Ouch. For ferry schedules and prices, click here. And check out these National Geographic links for more info on Croatia shopping, music, and other great things to do there.

[The Guardian]

What do you think? Is traveling by ferry the way to go? Share any of your travel experiences, tips, or hints.

Photo courtesy of the Croatian National Tourist Board

Curious George in New Hampshire

2009-07-14T15:50:30Z

It's going to be a busy summer for Curious George. Fans of the little fellow, who makes getting into trouble look like more fun than a barrel of monkeys, will be delighted to learn that events celebrating learning, literature, and a little bit of mischief are scheduled every month from now through September.

On July 25, the new visitor center at the Curious George Cottage in New Hampshire will be dedicated just in time for the third annual Curious George Cottage Family Festival. The festival, which runs from Friday, August 7 to Sunday, August 9, will celebrate the famous children's book character with loads of educational, kid-friendly events to entertain all ages.

From a banana pancake breakfast, story hour, a nature discovery walk, and the chance to learn to draw in the style of illustrator H.A. Rey, the weekend is full of hands-on opportunities for monkeying around. In fact, George and his friend, the Man in the Yellow Hat, will be visiting to check out the festival and meet with young fans.
Keeping with the causes closest to George's creators, Margret and H.A. Rey, the festival will also include planetarium shows put on by Plymouth State University and an energy fair.

The cottage, previously the Rey family's summer home, is located near the Waterville Valley Resort, which will be offering a family lodging package for the festival starting at $56 per person per night.

If you still can't get enough Curious George, look into celebrating Curiosity Day on September 16. In honor of H.A. Rey's birthday, readers are invited to go bananas and host Curious George events of their own.

Photo courtesy of the Rey Center

Where to Shoot Chicago's Skyline

2009-07-14T14:10:09Z

Traveler photographer Bob Krist just paid a visit to Chicago, but he wasn't just there to check out the blues. Here, he shares some of his photos from his trip, and offers a few tips on getting great pictures of the skyline.

The Chicago skyline at twilight, as seen from the Adler Planetarium.

Chicago is more than the city of big shoulders; it's a city of great architecture. Capturing its distinct and eclectic skyline is a challenging pleasure for any shooter. Here are some top places to make knockout pictures of the Windy City.

1. The Adler Planetarium on Museum Campus. Jutting out into Lake Michigan, the Museum Campus offers a panoramic view back towards the city. The Adler Planetarium sits at the end of the peninsula and the steps on the side of the structure give you an unfettered view of the expanse of the entire skyline. It's a morning to early afternoon shot, and it's great again at twilight (right after sunset). Many cameras, even point and shoots, allow you to stitch several pictures together for a panorama, so try shooting several overlapping sections of the view and stitching it together to form a stunning panoramic. You can also do this after fact in Photoshop or any image manipulation program that offers panoramic stitching.


View of the Chicago skyline from the John Hancock Center, a 100-story building finished in 1970.

2. For an aerial view that won't involve flying, the Hancock Observatory gets you up 94 floors for great views, especially looking south towards the waterfront and the rest of Chicago. You're shooting through glass here (and at the next place, the Sears Tower), so here are a few tips.

First, turn off your flash, (unless, of course, you want Chicago in a whiteout of reflected light!). Find a place where you can get the camera's lens very close, or right against, the glass of the window to minimize reflections. Wearing dark clothing and finding a clean stretch of glass are also good ideas to further minimize reflections. Late afternoon on a sunny, clear day is best for this location.

3. The Sears Tower has opened the new Skydeck, previously profiled here on IT. The glass shooting tips apply here as well, but this location is also a good afternoon shoot.

The skyline of Chicago, IL. as seen from Lake Michigan.

4. To get the all important view of Chicago from the Lake itself, sign up for one of the Wendella boat tours that goes both down the river and out to the Lake. Take a morning trip for best light on the skyline, and if your camera and/or lens has some kind of image stabilization or vibration reduction, this is the time to use it. I also found a polarizing filter to be useful for increasing saturation.

5. If you like what you see on the river cruise, you can get a stunning overall of that famed waterway from a riverfront room at Hotel 71, a stylish boutique hotel smack in the heart of the city. Ask for something as high up as possible, and again, keep that camera right up against the windowpane for the best results.
The skyline of Chicago rises behind the Buckingham Fountain in Grant Park in Chicago, IL.

6. For a wonderful foreground element to your skyline view, plant yourself south of the Buckingham Fountain in Grant Park and fire away. It's good in the morning, but it's great at twilight, when a light and music show bathes the fountain in a rainbow of color and the waters dance. The show starts at twilight, runs every hour on the hour, and lasts 20 minutes or so with the last one starting at 10 p.m. For best results, turn your flash off and use a tripod.

All photo and text © Bob Krist

Daily Radar: 07.14.09

2009-07-14T12:00:00Z

Utah's Red Mountain Resort & Spa has partnered with Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, a 33,000-acre ranch that protects abused and neglected animals. Guests can volunteer at the sanctuary and take a guided hike through Zion National Park for $129.
James Madison's Montpelier recently launched Montpelier Excursions, travel packages that include B&B accommodations, wine tastings, fine dining, admission to Montpelier, and even archaeological digs.
A new geyser erupted in Russia last week. The geyser, named "Prikolny," or "Peculiar," spouts water over 16 feet into the air. Check out National Geographic for a video of the eruption.
Kimberly Anyadike has become the youngest African-American female to fly across the United States. The 15-year-old took off about two weeks ago and flew back to her home in Compton, California on Saturday.

Photo: Red Mountain Resort & Spa

Happy Mooniversary

2009-07-13T21:30:34Z

After several thwarted attempts, Space Shuttle Endeavour flight STS-127 is set to launch tonight at 6:51 p.m. EDT (weather permitting) as the 29th mission to the International Space Station. Yet the press is quiet, cameras aren't glued to the launch pad, and it's doubtful the crew will come home to a tickertape parade. Space travel has unfortunately lost some of its luster, but if we turn back the clock to decades ago, when the Internet, cell phones, and putting a probe on Mars were imagined only found in science fiction films, we'd find a more enthusiastic audience.

Why? Because July 20 will mark the 40th anniversary of NASA's Apollo 11 mission--the first manned lunar landing. Four decades have passed since Neil Armstrong made that "giant leap for mankind," igniting a string of successful moon missions, a space shuttle program, and flights to Mars within our grasp.

Across the country, NASA is commemorating the historic event with a host of public programs. Take your family so they may relive the accomplishments of the Apollo 11 crew and spark a new excitement around space exploration in the next generation.

July 16th
The Apollo Treasures Gallery opens at the Kennedy Space Center Visitors Complex in Florida. Join astronauts Buzz Aldrin, Apollo 11; Charlie Duke, Apollo 16; Al Worden, Apollo 15; Edgar Mitchell, Apollo 14; and Walt Cunningham, Apollo 7 for the unveiling of this new exhibit which features Apollo 14 Commander Alan Sheppard's space suit, instructions from Apollo 16 on how to deploy the American flag, and other artifacts.

July 18th
Stop by the John F. Kennedy Center for Performing Arts for the National Symphony Orchestra's "Salute to Apollo: The Kennedy Legacy," a musical tribute to the Apollo program. Tickets are free and will be distributed on a first-come, first-served basis the morning of the concert in the Hall of Nations.

July 19th
Check out Moonfest 2009 at the NASA Ames Research Center in Moffett Field, California. This kid-friendly event will feature musical performances, rocket launches, and scientific talks about Apollo and future space missions.

Also on July 19, the National Air and Space Museum will host a book signing with Apollo astronauts Buzz Aldrin, Michael Collins, and Alan Bean.

July 20th
The Newseum in Washington, D.C. will host an Apollo 40th Anniversary Educational Forum. A special panel discussion featuring three Apollo astronauts will discuss the historic lunar landing and take questions from the audience. The event will be broadcast to six science centers and museums around the country. The Newseum is also offering free admission July 18-20 for up to three children under the age of 18 with the purchase of one adult ticket.

For those who don't live near an anniversary event location, visit www.wechoosethemoon.org, a real-time re-creation of the Apollo 11 mission. This online module lets you track 11 stages of the mission and then access archival video and images related to each stage.

Additional Links:

For a full list of 40th anniversary events visit: http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/apollo/40th/events.html

Follow STS-127 Commander Mark Polansky on Twitter @Astro_12

National Geographic Video: How Would it Be to Live on the Moon?

Pamplona's Softer Side

2009-07-13T19:00:13Z

There are some things that are on everyone's life list. Running with the bulls in Pamplona may be on your list, but it sure ain't on mine. I'm a slow traveler, so running through any city isn't my idea of a good time, and the threat of being gored doesn't make it any more enticing. Factor in that last week saw the terrible death of a 27-year-old runner (the first such death since 2003), and the severe injury of two other participants, and it secures my status on the sideline for good.

Which is why I was glad to see this article by Lionel Beehner in the New York Times this weekend highlighting Pamplona's softer, slower side. The city gained international fame in Ernest Hemingway's classic novel, The Sun Also Rises, and according to Beehner, little has changed.

First-timers can spend hours getting happily lost in the Old Quarter's maze of narrow canyonlike alleyways, hopping from bar to bar and sampling exotic examples of the small-plate combinations of colorful finger food locally called pinchos -- like pigeons stuffed with truffles and foie gras -- and filling up on a favorite local libation, the tangy red liqueur called pacharán.

Sounds tasty. Read the full story for more tips on the city. It may be less of an adrenaline rush, but I think I prefer it that way.

[The New York Times]

Have you been to Pamplona for the running of the bulls... or otherwise? What's your take?

Photo: Lola Akinmade

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2009-07-13T19:00:13Z