So, I gave my talk then opened the floor to questions. I was surprised how many inquiries I got about container gardening. Many wanted to know, among other things, how to pick a container. I did my best to answer them, and then realized there were lots of factors that could inform one’s choice. I had to admit to myself that my answers had been a bit disjointed and I had better organize my thought before it came up again with a less forgiving crowd. So, here goes…

SIZE. Simply put, size matters. Bigger containers are often better. They hold more soil, and therefore, potentially more water and nutrients. This gives your plants more resources and room to grow. This also gives you a bigger margin for error…always a good idea when dealing with living things.

What’s the right size? When is it big enough? I like to use some common comparisons to help answer this. Most people are familiar with a ½ wine barrel. This is big enough for 1 large, or 2 small tomato plants, or about 10 bush bean plants, or 6-8 heads of bib lettuce, or about 3 pepper plants. Flowers are another story. There are so many types of flowers that grow to so many different sizes, that it’s hard to say. Look at the final size of the plants to start. If you want a really full look, plan for them to touch each other when full-grown and choose accordingly. If you want your container more or less overflowing, then give them a little more or less space. I tend to over-ambitiously jam them in, fertilize, and let them fight it out.

Lastly, size has two dimensions, volume and depth. If you are growing long- or deep-rooted things, like carrots or Echinacea, in a container, then your plants will be better served by a deep pot than a wide shallow one.

DRAINAGE. Let me say it again, DRAINAGE. Make sure that your containers have a few holes in the bottom to allow excess water out. Containers that don’t drain lead to soggy soil that suffocates plants’ roots. If your container is watertight (and it’s not a water garden) put some holes in it. If your container sits very close to the ground or some other surface, you may want to raise the container up slightly or add some hole to the side of the container very near the bottom. I drilled some holes in the side of the bottom of a huge pot I had that I couldn’t put on risers and it made a big difference.

MATERIAL. Almost anything can be a container. That being said, you need to consider how what it’s made of will affect its performance. Porous containers, like terra cotta, allow water to escape through the side of the container. This may be good if you live in a wet area or tend to over-water. This may be challenging if your containers are small or you live in a windy or dry area. You can line the inside of porous containers with a layer of plastic and reduce water loss. Just remember to maintain drainage.

Think about whether you plan to move your container in case of frost. If not, make sure it is made of a frost proof material.

If you are choosing wood, remember to use a rot resistant wood like cedar or oak barrels. Just be sure not to use pressure treated wood if you are growing edibles. You don’t want the chemicals to affect the quality of your food.

CLEANLINESS. If you are reusing or repurposing a container, be sure to clean it thoroughly. Scrub away all dirt and debris. Wash it well and if you want to get it really clean, rinse it with hydrogen peroxide or a 1:10 bleach solution. One of the best sanitizing agents is the sun. If you have the time, let your clean containers bake in the sun for a week before filling them with soil.

CREATIVITY. Almost anything can be a container. Some standards are buckets, watering cans, and wine barrels. But, I’ve seen some great containers made from tree stumps, baking pans, bags, and nylons. Just be sure they’re clean, have drainage, and are the right size and material for your needs. You’ll be a container gardener in no time.

Speaking of container gardening. Have you checked out the Botanical Interests Container Gardening Contest yet? Well, it’s easy to enter and you may win a bunch of stuff for doing something fun and creative. Are you a beginner? We’ll help. Are you an expert? Let’s see what you’ve got.

Ryan, The Garden Coach

]]> http://www.inthegardenwithjudy.com/gardeningcoach/gardening-101-choosing-a-container/feed/ 0 http://www.inthegardenwithjudy.com/gardeningcoach/gardening-101-choosing-a-container/ http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/inthegardenwithjudy/~3/yi0S-gtCEVA/ http://www.inthegardenwithjudy.com/flowers/judys-flower-seeds/#comments Fri, 17 Feb 2012 23:14:59 +0000 admin http://www.inthegardenwithjudy.com/?p=1230 It has been cold in Colorado, colder and snowier than usual.  As I see all the seed orders coming in, I am comforted imagining the seeds being started in other states.  During the cold winter months, sometimes I find it hard to rouse my planting fervor in February.  To stir my enthusiasm I’ve been imagining the tomato plants that are growing (probably a couple of feet tall by now) in the warmest parts of the country.  Their growing season is quite different from cold Colorado.

This charges me up — dreams of the bright green seedlings, the smell of tomato plants, marigolds (I like the smell of them) and fragrant flowers.  Regardless of my heavy sweater, boots and long underwear, I am ready.  I scan our seed catalog for those items that need a longer time to get going and fill up my cart.  This weekend I will start indoors:

Penstemon Firecracker

Penstemon Cambridge

Delphinium Pacific Giant Blend

Canterbury Bells Blend

Foxglove Gloxiniiflora Blend

Painted Daisy Robinson’s Blend

Hollyhock Indian Spring Blend

Scabiosa Pincushion Flower — Isaac House Blend

Artichoke Green & Purple Heirloom Seed

The ramping-up-to-full-swing-gardening mayhem is at my feet as the birds were especially noisy this morning — another sign that spring is on the way.  My gardener’s soul sighs winters relief.

~Judy