Balayan beach in Batangas

It’s one of those trips that I just said yes without knowing exactly where I was going. I was yearning for a downtime after a somewhat busy week that I was ready to escape anywhere. It was an invitation to check out a resort in Batangas but I only knew of the details that day when I got into the car onto a road trip down south. We were going to Balayan, a town virtually out of the radar among four of us in the car. So following a crudely drawn map, a series of instructions and some pictures  landmark as puzzles, we rolled on with a sense of adventure to find the resort named Blue Dolphin.

Blue Dolphin Resort

Marc, Gail and Nina are no strangers as they had been travel companions to Palawan, particularly Coron and El Nido. Welcome new travel companions were Cedric and Patricia who convoyed along with us on this road trip. Of course a road trip wouldn’t be complete without interesting stops. For this one particularly Bag of Beans in Tagaytay for lunch where we plotted out routes and plans B and C if we get lost on a large family-sized mushroom and steak pie.

The airconditioned room good for 4pax

Balayan, Batangas can be reached via a 3-4 hours drive from Manila. There are 2 ways to go there, via Cuenca or via Tagaytay. We went through the Tagaytay route, familiar for us and recommended by the hand-drawn map. GPS directions aided us to reach the town but the specific directions on sheet lead us to the resort deep in the outskirts along Balayan Bay.

Massage at the open air garden

Blue Dolphin Resort is one of the very few resorts in this area. Its a vacation house turned to a resort with well-secured walls and the beach just a hop away its gates. The beach is black and rough but the water is clear. If it’s not your fancy, the resort has a nice dynamic shaped pool with depths ranging from kid-safe to beyond adult heights of 6 feet.

Karaoke entertainment

Since this is a converted resort, it has a homey feel of being guest in a friend’s house. Rooms are well-kept, large and basic. No cabinets here to hang clothes or state of the art equipments but there are air conditioned and fan rooms a karaoke machine near a gazebo near the beach. There are no ensuite toilet and bath inside the rooms but there are plenty outside and all of them are kept clean and nice. Guest here must bring in their own food since there is no in-house restaurant here and the nearby eatery option is about 15 minutes away to the town center. Kitchen facilities can be used though for a minimal fee.

Afternoon at Balayan Bay beach

Blue Dolphin Resort is really ideal for a group escape. Family and friends can have a good time here just lazing around the wide open garden facing the sea. Believe me the breeze is so conducive to just chilling out. It is also good for corporate getaways where team-building activities can be done in the garden. While I think it’s a great place to do nothing, it’s not for people looking for solitary moments as getting here can be quite tricky if you don’t have your own transpo. But for big groups, it would be perfect since you can secure the whole resort for P20,000 a night otherwise rooms vary from P2000 to P4000. I did enjoy my stay here in Balayan especially the poker, karaoke night  and splashing in the pool since I was with a group.

Blue Dolphin Resort
www.bluedolphinresort.net

Sunrise over Old Bagan

The chill of the early morning wind was really pleasant in Bagan this time of the year. Yes, I got up early and got out of the hotel just in time when Mime and Chune just arrived at the front gate exactly 5am. We started our ride again to the direction of Old Bagan while I survey the surroundings, now familiar even under the sheaths of darkness ready to wake up any moment. I have no idea which temple Mime plans to take me for the sunrise except that it’s somewhere between Old Bagan and Myinkaba, the next village. He has proven to be very reliable and knowledgeable as a guide aside from being just a horse cart driver so I’ll trust his recommendation this time.

People at the stupa waiting for the sunrise

The early morning dimness starts to fade as I make out figures of temples ahead of us. Chune again entered a dirt road to a temple, just moderate in size. There was a van there so I expect there were already people there at the top terrace. I pulled my torch and made my way up the narrow staircase which I’m used to climbing by now. When I got up, there were already a few people there and noticed they were mostly photographers as well.

Sun rising over Old Bagan

“This is perfect!” when I saw the view upon reaching the terrace. Mime was right. It has all the elements I was looking for. I checked my compass to where the sun would rise, the surroundings on potential foregrounds and backgrounds for composition and finally where I would place myself. I climbed up to the 2^nd to the top level of the stupa on a corner and grounded myself there.

Some of the temples at Old Bagan

The magic began when the sun started rising on the horizon. When long shadows extend on the temples giving them shape and highlight. The light intensified rendering a golden hue to the whole landscape. Meanwhile balloons on the horizon started venturing for the sky. Playfully moving around like a bee, checking out the temples. This was the scene I had imagined I would be seeing and it was right there before my eyes. It was nothing short of magnificent.

Hot Air Balloons rising

A thousand temples scattered in the plains of Bagan dating back to 1000 AD but is still not listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. One reason is they don’t approve of the methods of restoration being done by the junta. But that does not mean UNESCO is not working to preserve them, in fact some people are doing restorations on particular temples damaged from earthquakes. Not all the temples in  Bagan are old, they are already mixed with new temples built by the Junta and it will continue to increase in numbers. “Why so many temples?” I asked. Well for Buddhism, the more the better to say it simply.

Balloons hover over the temples

I was satisfied with that morning shoot. When the sun was high some of the people have already left. Again I was one of the last who went down the temple. There was only a lone vendor at the terrace displaying his paintings. I’m won’t mention the name of the temple here, I also noticed it’s not written in any books yet. I know it won’t prevent people from going there and I’m sure people would recognize it from the pictures. But who knows, I hope if ever I come back it won’t be as packed as Pyathada Paya was.

Stupa details

I went back to the horse cart and told Mime it was time for breakfast! It was a great way to start my 4^th day in Myanmar and now we’re headed to Myinkaba nearby.

A vendor arranging his paintings for sale as I was about to leave

Crowd at Pyathada Paya

My sleep was so deep. It felt like only a second passed since my eyes closed until the moment I woke up. My senses were getting accustomed to the living world when I wondered why my alarm didn’t go off. I reached for my watch and was shocked to see it was already 4:30pm! I jumped off the bed and grabbed my things like there’s no tomorrow. I asked Mime to fetch me at the hotel at 3:30pm for out afternoon expedition at the Central plains including a sunset at Pyathada Paya, but an hour had already passed. So much for the planned itinerary for the afternoon, I haven’t even had my lunch yet.

Passing through a herd of goats on the road to Pyathada

I was relieved when I saw Mime and Chune outside the hotel. Miss Choo smiled and said “Your horse cart has been waiting for an hour” as I left my keys. I apologized to Mime that I overslept and we hurried on. A few meters away I checked my bag and realized I forgot my battery and memory card case. I told to Mime that we should head back as my camera battery is already half-drained.

Pyathada Paya looks golden in the afternoon light

When we got back, I left my bag with all my valuables to Mime and ran back to the hotel, grabbed my key and got my case. Then Ms Choo, sounding urgent, asked me if I already paid the US$10 Government Fee. It’s the park fee for tourist when entering Bagan. I was aware of this fee but no one had asked me for it when I arrived so I haven’t paid yet. She said that it’s important that I pay soon or else the government would penalize them for this. I knew I was wasting precious time going back and forth but I can see the urgency on her request so I ran back to the horse cart for my bag and went back to Ms Choo to pay the government tax and finally ran back to my horse cart again.  We haven’t left yet but I was sweating already going back and forth.

Bus-loads of tourist heading to the temple

Finally, we were on our way to Pyathada Paya for the sunset. It’s way down south at the central plains of Bagan. I could hear Chune galloping faster. I grabbed a few biscuits and nuts from my bag to temporarily ease my hunger. From the pavement we entered a dirt road with tall earth-color grasses on the side of the road. Long shadows stretch in front of us as the sun started its descent. Occasionally we would pass by a few temples and with the sun behind us, their miniscule form and spires cast beautiful silhouettes in the distance. I wanted to stop but we were in a hurry. There were also several times we had to slow down when a few herd of goats would cross our way. Despite our hurry, I thought this was the most pleasant horse cart ride I had, having a feel of this backwoods at this time of the day.

Bikers making their way to the temple

Pyathada Paya looks marvellous as we approach. But I also noticed the numerous dangling feet swaying like a centipede’s crawling on top of the terrace walls. Just as I thought, Lonely Planet has written that this Paya is one of the best alternatives for sunset with only a few people and groups visiting, and once it is written on paper don’t expect it to be the same. I knew I should have just stopped there somewhere in the wilderness. But since I’m here, I joined the bus load of people who arrived the same time I did on my horse cart. Pyathada is huge and the pathway to the terraces was lit with candles on each steps.

Weak sunset, breathtaking nonetheless

It’s a good thing Pyathada Paya has the biggest terrace in all the temples in Bagan and was able to accommodate the crowd with enough space to breathe in and move around. I immediately looked for a place at the front terrace and planted my tripod to secure my area. As I set my eyes on the open plains, a few buses, cars and bikers were still on their way leaving behind the dust trails in the air. Much to the dismay of everyone there, or it’s just my thinking, the sunset wasn’t as good as I expected. The lighting was weak and there were too few foregrounds to play around with. But I was still one of the few people who stayed around to salvage what’s left of the light there.

The moon and the stupa,slightly off-centered at the terrace

On our way back, I asked Mime to take me to a place tomorrow where it has a good sunrise and not too many people. He told me he does know a temple with very few crowds and only a number of photographers know. I’m putting my trust in his knowledge this time and told him to pick me up at the hotel by 5am. “As long as you make sure you are awake!” he replied with a laugh. Laughter filled the air regardless the afternoon not going as I planned. But in my mind, I do hope that I wake up early the next day.

The Konagamana Buddha facing east

There is one temple in Bagan which is highly recommended by guides and people there, it is  Ananda Pahto, and there are good reasons why – it’s one of the largest, finest and most importantly, the most-preserved temple in Bagan. Coming from the road on the north plain this was the main temple on the east, outside the walls of Old Bagan. It’s very popular so the presence of the vendor stands leading to the Pahto’s main entrance is expected. Beyond them I marvelled at the beautiful white-washed temple with a golden corn-like stupa glimmering at the mid-day sun.

The Ananda Pahto

The cool wind gliding inside the multi-layered hallways of Ananda Pahto made exploring the vestibular interior a lot pleasurable. Built around 1090 AD, if seen from the top, the architecture resembles a cross with 4 entrances and 4 Buddha’s facing 4 different directions. It’s hallow interiors was the reason the air can circulate freely but what amazed me was the details put in on the labarynthe-like corridors with probably hundreds of Buddhas in a repetitive pattern framed inside the decorated interior windows. The lower windows are now barred probably to prevent temple thieves from getting them which has been a major problem here in Bagan.

The outer corridor

Ananda Pahto is a victim of temple robbery which resulted in two (the east and west facing Buddhas) of the four 31 feet Buddhas being destroyed when it was razed by fire in 1600s. But Ananda Pahto didn’t lose lustre. They were replaced with the same solid teak wood the originals were made. With the dim lighting in the halls, the Buddha’s gilded images were accentuated by beautiful lighting making it look like there were floating high up the corridors.

Gotama Buddha facing west

I stepped outside to a large open ground behind the Pahto and admired the temple from afar. I was astounded by the level of details put into the terraced crown of this temple. The numerous lions carved and the walls with plaques also had mind-blowing details. I could see the walls dry and peeling, in my mind I can imagine how it would look in its glory days. There are also life-size gargoyle-looking lion guardians at the door. Even the designs on the bells on the open ground caught my attention.

The guardians at the door

I could already feel head and eyelids getting heavy as I head out back to my horse cart. I did catch a few kids playing by the entrance walkway and took shots of them who were also eager to have their pictures taken. We visited Thatbinnyu Paya after (which I’ll just tackle on a later post for Old Bagan) then asked Mime to head back to May Kha Lar so I could rest. I felt tired and decided to have my lunch later and sleep first and resume my exploration in the afternoon.

details fromt he bell

One of the kids playing at Ananda Pahto

Anando Pahto kid with thanaka portrait

A glimpse at the impressive frescoes at Upali Thein

“Where are you from?” asked a pagoda watchman at Upali Thein. “I’m from the Philippines!” I replied slightly exasperated already from answering this question just on the third day in Myanmar or is it because I haven’t slept yet. “Oh Philip-Pines!” most people would pronounce it with the last syllable sounding similar to a “Pine” Tree. I proceeded to admire the beautiful frescoes inside this small ordination hall then suddenly the watchman spoke “My friend, maybe you can help me change this money, I can’t use them here” I looked back and saw in his hand a few peso bills amounting to 850 pesos. Surprised, I asked “Where did you get those?”

Gubyauknge Buddha and ceiling paintings

The plains of Bagan stretch to 16 square miles and with about 2217 pagodas that can be visited, it can be overwhelming which ones to start out with. Knowing the layout of the land first would really help. There are three main areas in Bagan – the Nyaung U, the Budget and Transportation area with a few pagodas, the Old Bagan where a lot of magnificent pagodas that can easily be explored by foot and bike, the New Bagan houses the high end accommodations and a few temples. But what is really exciting is travelling the roads between these places where the pagodas are scattered out there. Coming from Shwezigon Paya from Nyaung U, we made our way to Old Bagan visiting the pagodas of the North Plain road.

Impressive stuccos at Gubyauknge

The road between Nyaung U and Old Bagan is a paved two way street enough for two large vehicles to pass on opposite directions. The sidewalk is a dirt path but pleasantly lined with trees and occasional small pagodas randomly popping out of the scene. The morning sees a lot of natives on their bikes, and fellow travellers on horse carts. About 15 minutes ride, Mime navigated Chune to turn left into a dirt path to the pagoda called Gubyauknge Paya.

The vendor centered Htilominlo Pahto

“Mingalaba! Where are you from?” A vendor with paintings greeted me as I entered the small pagoda but with very high ceiling and impressive paintings but obviously some pieces stolen or broken apart. The vendor directed me to the stairway leading to the top platform and asked me to look at his wares later. The views there were okay but I was more impressed with the stuccos on the wall despite being damaged. Since the 1975 6.5 magnitude earthquake, a lot of pagodas here were damaged reducing the numbers from 4400+ to 2217. I looked at the vendor’s paintings when I got down, while nice, I politely begged off.

The carved reliefs at the doorways

About 10 minute’s ride, we arrived at the impressive Htilominlo Pahto with its 150 feet high temple. Pahto usually refers to hallow temples or shrines with either an entrance or 4 entrances in different sides. But as I entered the entrance I saw the grounds behind the perimeter wall replete with vendors. As I was clipping my slippers on my bag, a guy about his 20s, wearing a longyi greeted me again with the usual “Where are you from?” I indulged in his attempt to chitchat while I arrange my things. Then he asked “Sir, can you help me! Can you tell me how much are these worth?” I was surprised to see him holding a few peso bills. I counted and it was around P850 which is about US20 or 15,000 kyat. “Can you change it? We can’t use it here” I was hesitant and told him I’ll think about it and proceeded to explore the temple and I admired the carved reliefs at the doorway.

One of the Buddhas at Htilominlo Pahto

The miniscule Upali Thein was a really short ride opposite Htilominlo Pahto. Thein is referred to sacred ordination halls. This thein is often locked to preserve what’s left of its frescoes. For me the water color mural here is one of the most impressive I’ve seen in Bagan, unfortunately photography inside wasn’t allowed. I did have an accidental shot before he warned me. And those peso bills popped up again which I thought was something fishy. The reason that it came from a tourist friend wasn’t reliable enough to think about the authenticity of the bills.

The small Upali Thein houses impressive frescoes

Finally we arrived at probably one of the must-see Payas in Bagan, the Ananda Pahto. At the entrance gate, while I was again clipping my slippers to my bag and getting my camera out, the same thing happened to me as Htilominlo. A different guy greeted and offered if I could change his P850 pesos to dollar or kyat. I said I’m sorry I can’t and just proceeded inside the pahto. Do these guys know each other? Are they tailing me and informing each other of my whereabouts? Are those Peso bills even real? I never got the chance to inspect it to avoid giving a wrong signal. Unfortunately for them, I needed all the kyat and dollars I have so I couldn’t change their money.

A Chinese Dragon and delighted revelers

Ongpin was filled to the brim. People were flooding in all corners, drumbeats pounding in different directions, dragons dancing on top of the crowd and fireworks call their attention. I could really feel the festive atmosphere here. It was 2 years ago when I last visited Binondo on a Chinese New Year and it certainly wasn’t like this before. Perhaps because from now on, the first day of the Chinese New Year would be a holiday to the delight of everyone, Chinese or not. We met with some of our fellow photographer friends who attended our previous Backpack Photography Photo Tours to enjoy and capture the revelry in China Town.

Ongpin filled with people

Noticeable are the mixed influences here apart from the traditional Chinese celebration. While I know Chinatown has a unique quality of having both a Chinese altar alongside a Sto Nino, seeing people wearing garbs ala ati-atihan with Sto Nino in their arms was different and surprising. Bothersome are the transvestites doing dance performances with the centre of attraction are the fire breathers mimicking dragons. While I have no problems with their show, they are actually good and the drumbeats adding a lively vibe, some of them can be annoying and aggressive when asking for donations from the envelopes they give.

Busy side streets with vendors

Amusing though are the young dragon dancers giving in a mini-show of their own for that precious 20 peso bills you have. We could clearly see their efforts, funny and clumsy at times but sincere and enjoyable. But we also tried to chase the larger dragons that dance with firecrackers to give fortune to an establishment. There were few ones we saw but not as many as I saw two years ago.

Photographer busy taking in the scenes

The crowd was too much for our group besides we were there since morning. It’s amazing how commercial the Chinese New Year celebration is now. Major TV stations now line up at the plaza to cover the events live and amazing number of people toting their DSLRs. If I’m not mistaken, 7 out of 10 people there have DSLRs wringing their necks.

Lucky Charms in abundance

We didn’t stay for the parade and decided to go but still it was a fun afternoon especially when most of the group got their Imperial Chinese hats people kept asking where they were bought. I never got to buy some items or my favourite eng bee tin hopia but I can always go back. We bumped into Ivan Mandy when we dined in at one of our favourites, Dong Bei. We were happy with the little things, especially the food trip part. So I leave you with some images and wishing you all a prosperous year ahead.

Young ones in the crowd

Following the dragon

The young dragon dancer

Young dragon dancers

Enjoy beating the drum

Photography 101 in Corregidor

For me Photography is like learning how to ride a bike or driving, once you learn the basics, it should be second nature to you in order for you to speed away and shoot. We invite you to learn the fundamentals in photography and apply them on a weekend in Corregidor Island for Backpack Photography 101. Learn about history while you learn about photography. Explore the Rock while you explore your photographic talents. See Corregidor in a new light.

Workshop dates:  March 3-4, 2012
Register before February 24, 2012
Limited to 18 slots only

Fee: P6,300/pax inclusive of

• overnight accommodations at Corregidor Inn
• all meals (1 breakfast, 2 lunches, 1 dinner)
• ferry service via Sun Cruises
• transportation within Corregidor
• Malinta Tunnel Light & Sound Show
• Insurance
• ID and certificate
• access to pool and beach facilities

 Whom is this workshop for? Beginners who wants to get started on photography. Refreshers and photographers who would like to take photos of Corregidor in a new light.

REGISTER HERE.

Batanes Unusual Photo Tour 2012

Our Backpack Photography Batanes Island Hop Photo Tour still has slots open. You can check out the details here at www.backpackphotography.net

The thanaka layered faces of brothers at Shwezigon

There are more than 4400 temples in Bagan. Even staying here for more than a week, there’s a slim chance to see all of them. While there are must-see temples and charming unpopular ones, for me the memorable ones are those where I encountered interesting people that adds character to the payas. And early on my first day in Nyaung U, Shwezigon Paya was one of those memorable payas I visited in Bagan.

Noodle breakfast at Nyaung U

Coming from an impromptu sunrise shoot, we rode to a nearby tea shop to have breakfast and talk about our itinerary for the day. I had noodle for breakfast. It was a bit oily but it was enough to fill up and energize for the rest of the morning.

The famous Shwezigon walkway

Found within Nyaung U, Shwezigon Paya was the logical choice as the next temple to visit. Even with its easy proximity, Shwezigon Paya is popular for the dramatic long shadows of its elongated walkway during the morning for photographers. It is also a significant temple in Bagan, beacaus Buddhism and Nat Worship is done here side by side. Anawartha who initially constructed the temple under his rule included the 37 nat Gods to lure in people into the paya and expose them to Buddhism.

Pleasant morning at Shwezigon Paya

I was there during the Nadaw festival, a month long festival dedicated to the nats, where some people, especially young adults troop to the temple by night time and celebrate with songs, dances and drinks. The morning I came, the vendors were preparing early to display their wares for this busy season. A lady was there applying her Thanaka, one of morning rituals of Burmese people and makes up the distinct facial features of Burmese.

Early worshipper at Shwezigon Stupa

Thanaka comes from a small tree growing at the cool northern regions of Myanmar. The bark from the tree is grounded on a thanaka kyauk pyin (grinding stone) where a few drops of water would make a paste. I asked the lady if I can take her photos while she’s applying the thanaka paste and she didn’t mind. She even oriented herself to my direction while she applies it on her face. Initially she applied a thin layer of thanaka all over her face then thick layers on her cheeks. The thanaka is a natural sun block that is said to tighten the pores, control oil and has a cooling effect on the skin. Women and boys usually wear them but men working on the fields sometimes apply them too not just on their face but also on their arms and exposed skin.

A lady grinding a thanaka bark

While giving the lady a copy of her photo I instantly printed, her fellow vendors curiously gather to what I was doing and asked where I came from. I told them I’m from the Philippines and I recognized one guy there. He was indeed Ko ko, the same guy who helped out my friend lagalog when he came there two years ago. Somehow I was ecstatic to have seen someone familiar even having seen him for the first time. He gave me some tips on when to come back to the paya here for more photo opportunities.

Applying thanaka on her face

Inside the Shwezagon Paya is an impressive looking stupa on a terrace surrounded by several shrines. It was pleasantly quiet that early morning with the sound of fluttering wings from the pigeons and brooms sweeping the ground filling the area.

The siblings dancing at the walkway

I went back to the long walkway and noticed a couple of well dressed kids near the exit. When they saw me they started a series of dances. I was amused. I saw a lady with a baby probably on her 30s or 40s with a big smile. I asked if they were her kids and she replied with a resounding yes. I took photos of the siblings and sat on the side of the walkway to print it out. I gave the photos to the mother and she looked glad and surprised.

The brothers delighted at their photo

There was a small shanty behind her made of a banig and she settled there looking at the photo. She told me it was their home. My heart somehow felt soft and I guess the kids performing were her way for them to get money from tourist. I don’t have a lot of money with me so I asked her to pose with her family and she excitedly obliged. I took their photo and immediately gave a print to her. She showed it to her kids. I left them and she was still looking at their photos with a smile as I bid good bye.

A happy family portrait at Shwezigon Paya

Chuni chasing the Balloon in Bagan

Do I try to sleep or do I go out explore? Its 5am in the morning and somehow doing some chores has dampened the sleepiness I was feeling earlier. I just arrived from my Bus ride from Yangon and checked in at May Kha Lar Guest House in Nyaung U, Bagan and the first thing I did was do the laundry so it would dry out for the day. I lay for a few minutes on the bed but I couldn’t sleep so I took my camera bag and tripod and went out in the early morning blue.

My room at May Kha Lar

May Kha Lar Guest House isn’t the cheapest budget option in Nyaung U but this Indian Family ran Guest House does have a good reputation to be the friendliest of the bunch which attracted me to them. Even ringing them early in the wee hours of the morning wasn’t a problem. I got a good double room for US12 a night. It has tiled walls, spacious, big bed, lots of electronic outlets, on a quiet side of the building. The guest house is on a good location with a lot of eateries and convenience stores just a few walks away.

Thetyapho Paya

So I went out in the dim blue morning and the air outside was cold. Some tea shops were already open and I could see a few monks already with bowls in hand heading to the direction of the nearby pagoda. A few foreigners on bikes swooshed past me, probably also headed to a good spot for sunrise. I was heading back to the bus station where I could probably hire a horse cart for the day. And I did find one and negotiated for a price of 15,000 kyat for a whole day’s tours. It’s not cheap since I’m flying solo on a horse cart. I could just get a bike but this is one way to help the people here and besides I need a local guide as well. My driver was Mime and his horse Chune.

Sunrise over Bagan plains

The click-clacking of the horse hoofs went into a fast paced rhythm as we race for the sunrise. Mime knew we won’t reach the popular locations for sunrise so abruptly, he veered off the main road to a dirt path leading to a paya. “What paya is this?” I asked, he said it’s Thetyapho Paya. I had to ask Mime to repeat that. I checked my book and my maps and it wasn’t listed there. Who cares though, it looks good in the morning light. Mime hurriedly led me inside the paya and showed me the very narrow and dim passageway leading to the upper platform of the pagoda.

Fields and pagodas

The immense open plain of temples and vegetation became more dramatic as the sun slowly rose on the horizon. The clouds had a playful pattern and in a distant, a number of hot air balloons head for the sky. It was wonderful and certainly shook me more awake. I didn’t mind if there wasn’t a striking foreground to play around it. There were interesting patterns on the plain and the sunrise looks marvellous.

Pagodas sticking out of the vegetation

Thetyapho Paya, even quite unknown will be remembered as my first paya sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar. The 4 Buddhas facing 4 different directions on the ground floor was also a sight to see. What a great start of the day and I’m glad I decided to start early to explore Bagan.

One of the Buddhas of Thetyapho Paya

Leaves in front of the bus for safe journey

I was already prepared for the worst for the 10+ hours Bus journey to Bagan from Yangon. Oh I’ve read so many horror stories of old buses breaking down, air-conditioning giving up mid-way the journey or even some bumpy roads that would shake you up awake. But, fortunate to say, it wasn’t even that close. Changes here were for the better and the journey was much more comfortable and easier than I expected. I guess it was too comfortable that I had to push my seatmate, who’s sleeping like oil, a few times as he constantly leans on my side of the seat.

Ye Thu Aung Bus to Bagan

Buying my bus ticket to Bagan was one of the first things I did when I arrived. The ticket to Bagan cost 15,000 kyat. It was convenient that Motherland Inn II was able to secure a ticket and a preferred seat by the window in the middle of the bus because as I found out, Aung Mingalar Bus Station was long way out  near the borders of the city about 45 minutes or so from the centre. No wonder the taxi rate was so high.

Complimentary items from the bus

The bus company I got was Ye Thu Aung which my taxi driver said was one of the better bus companies there. He also had to know the name because Aung Mingalar Bus Stations was a huge dusty complex where a large number of bus companies operate. It seemed chaotic and overwhelming at first seeing all the buses, signage and peddlers selling just about any goods from bubble gums, candy, chips, posters and even pocket books.

Each seat has a small pillow

At the Ye Thu Aung office, I waited at their passenger area which looked more like a garage. As the departure time drew near, a lady staff checked our tickets and passport details for foreigners as there are checkpoints along the way. A young Burmese girl who speaks good English was conversing with a group of foreigner behind me and we learned that foreigners like us have to pay premium for the buses. The locals only paid 1/3 of the price on the same bus.

The Highway Bus Food Stop

The bus itself was large with each seats having very spacious leg room. On our front pockets there’s a complimentary bottle of water, a travel kit set with a toothbrush and toothpaste and a sheet of wet wipes. A small plastic bag which I thought at first was for throwing up but it was for the betel nut spit. Each seat also has a small pillow. Before they let us in the bus, they bus staff first had a very short rite of lighting an incense and tying up some leaves on the wind shield wipers which they believe would keep our journeys safe. We left the station exactly 5:30pm.

The Goreng Chicken and Rice

As I could pass as I Burmese, my young seatmate asked in Burmese and I told him only I only understand English. He was polite and did try to converse with me with his broken English with a lot of pauses, probably thinking of the right words to say. The sliding projections of the temples on the LCD screen also helped get his point out. I learned he’s heading to Mt. Popa as he works and lives there. Occasionally he would chew on his betel nut and when Shwedagon Stupa appears on a few occasions, he would join his palms and nod to pay respect. But most of the time he would be deep in slumber.

The Indian restaurant where I ate has very friendly staff

By 8pm, we pulled off from the main highway and stopped on a complex of eateries called Bus Food Stop. I actually was surprised to see this complex of modern eateries much like the gas station food stops along our highways, as I was expecting a country type hut eateries. There’s a line of good restaurants serving different dishes from Indians and Myanmar cuisines. I even had a very tasty goreng rice and chicken at the Indian restaurant there for only 1,800 kyat. The restrooms in the area were also clean. By 8:45pm, we moved on.

A somewhat glitzy entrance way to one of the restos

I never noticed any rough roads we passed by only a few noticeable towns. On the screen where some whacky local series being played until they re-run some tourist site slideshows again till midnight. By 1:30pm we had our short CR break at a tea shop. My seat mate already alighted here and it turns out he works on that tea place. We were already at Mt Popa, Bagan.

The tea shop stop at Mt Popa

By 3pm we already reached Nyaung U, the budget heart of Bagan and where most of the transportation connects. Our bus was the only one there on a modest open station by the street. I hired a horse cart for 2000 kyat with a very enthusiastic driver already soft-selling his service for a sunrise tour to the temples. But I was still hazy and sleepy to absorb all the details he was telling me and just wanted to reach my lodging on that ungodly hour.

The Beautiful Reclining Buddha of Chaukhtatgyi Paya

The tranquil face of a gigantic Buddha filled my vision as I enter a large open shed with metal roof. He seemed contented there, reclining on the floor with his crown adorned with diamonds and precious stones glittering for everyone to see. This is Chaukhtatgyi Paya, home of this gigantic Buddha, uncommonly known but is considered one of the most beautiful reclining Buddha in Myanmar.

The feet view of the Buddhe

My bus to Bagan wouldn’t leave until 6pm and finding out that Aung Mingalar Bus Station is long way out of the city, I decided a side trip would be good on the way to the station for the afternoon. I hired a taxi from the Inn. Taxi fare to Aung Mingalar Bus Station would usually cost around 5000-7000k but since I have a stop at Chaukhtatgyi Paya and waiting time, then a lunch stop, we agreed on 10,000 kyat.

Details of the sole markings

Chaukhtatgyi Paya with its reclining Giant Buddha is near and north of Shwedagon Paya but sees little tourist. As usual, sandals are not allowed and there is no entrance fee in this paya. It was easier to move around and see the Reclining Buddha on all corners. Near the foot of the Buddha, there’s even a platform to see from a higher vantage point. Speaking of the feet, the huge Buddha has very interesting distinguishing marks on its soles. There are 108 different marks said to be incarnations of Buddha in the three world levels until he reached the Buddha state at the centre of the markings.

Stairway to the Monk's Quarters

An old slender man about his 50s wearing a crimson longyi and presentable long sleeve white polo struck a conversation with me asking first where I was from and then started giving trivia about the Giant Buddha and the place. At first I didn’t show interest but was being polite as I know he would ask donations from me later. But when he offered to show me around the monk’s quarters and also the meditation area at the complex, he certainly captured my interest. Still on my bare feet I followed Momo, as he called himself, down the cold concrete stairway behind the Buddha. I asked him how much he would charge and told me it would be minimal. Dubious but I followed.

one of the floors at a monastery

There are several monasteries in the area and we entered a large typical double story building through its kitchen doors. Inside is almost bare with a few monks enjoying their siesta. Several of their robes hanging while their possessions of books, study scriptures, alms bowls are against the walls. Seeing this made me think how lucky they are to simply have the luxury to sleep whenever they want but then again, I know each of them have responsibilities. This particular Monk’s Quarters was the home of the hundreds of monks who protested in 2007. It had a violent and unfortunate end that sent a lot of monks back to their civilian lives and reduced their numbers here.

monk's alms bowls

We then walked a bit to Shweminwon Sasana Yiektha Meditation Centre where a group of people were deep in meditation. The air inside the hall was quiet and still and my presence there was simple a leaf silently fleeting unnoticed. Most of the people inside were women and nuns. Some were sitting still while a few were doing a walking meditation where they focused on each step, the movement of their legs, the feeling when their soles touch the floor and being one with the movement. It was interesting how each of them turn into the deeper world of their own being.

A nun deep in meditation

As we were heading back, I asked Momo again how much that tour would cost and he said he regularly charge 10,000 kyat. Ridiculous! I thought, since the guides at Shwedagon only charge half that. I said I won’t pay that much and only gave him 4000 kyat. He kept insisting but in the end he accepted it and I walked away. I dropped 400 kyat at the donation boxes at the paya entrance, took and wore my shoes. The tour was interesting but I don’t think it would amount to what he was charging. Momo was the first of the several people I would meet in Myanmar that would furtively try to lure you with their faux kindness but in the end, was out to swindle an ignorant traveller.

Walking meditation