It’s a smallish city which was only constructed in the 20th century and although there are some remains of the Almoravid Fortress on top of the Zagora Mountain there is nothing else for the history buff to get excited over.

Having said that, there are two things which draw me to Zagora: the atmosphere and the trip to get there. Zagora is known as the Gateway to the Desert and that’s famously indicated by the sign, “52 days to Timbuctu.” On foot or camel back that is! You walk through town, cross under an archway and step right into the desert. Excursions on camel are available but I preferred to just walk out, all on my own and when the sun was setting. Then I was sitting on a sand dune, looking at the stars and enjoying a feeling of freedom that cannot be equaled anywhere else.

Back in town, once the heat of the day has subsided, the locals come out in force, stroll around, sit down in one of the many, tiny, open air restaurants and enjoy, like me, the best tagines I have found anywhere in Morocco.

As Zagora gets more and more known and tourists find their way there, several good hotels have opened their doors and you can stay in comfort.

Best of all is the journey from Marrakesh to Zagora. As I have come often, I found a taxi driver in Marrakesh who would take me there. It’s a long drive, some 10-12 hours and he would politely ask if he could bring his wife as she has relatives in Zagora and this was her only chance visit. Great fun is always had on the trip. Leaving Marrakesh’s hustle and bustle behind, the road winds higher and higher into the Atlas mountains until you have to cross a pass which has snow nearly year around.

Then the descent into the Draa Valley, a slow flowing river bordered by lush green vegetation and thousands upon thousands of rose bushes. Deep valleys and canyons cut through and we make several stops at tiny road side shacks to have mint tea and sweets. We sit in rickety iron chairs right on top of a steep cliff and look at the river below. It’s an incredible landscape and the contrast between snow covered mountains and the hot sand dunes of the desert is magic. Writing about it makes me already want to go back. I hope you will too.

Inka is German and used to be an international attorney with offices in London and Spain. Retired two years ago because I wanted to be a traveler and writer and now live between Didim/Turkey and Miami with plenty of travel in between. Next destinations: Istanbul, New York and Petra/Jordan. Inka’s first novel has just been published and can be found here

As for the real chopsticks, the wooden sticks that are held between the thumb and fingers (minus the pinkie) are used for eating in most Asian nations. I have seen these gentle pieces of wood strike fear into the hearts of westerners all over the world during meals. I have also heard from travelers that they have avoided Asia over this same fear. Take about a colossal shame.

Truth is, outside of big cities in Japan forks can be in short supply. There are also few images that are more culturally specific than chopsticks. Try them out when in Japan even if you think you’re failing. However, there is nothing to fear. I may not have empirical data, I feel confident that no visitors to Asia have ever starved to death for lack of chopstick ability. While I cannot offer specific advice of how to use these, but I have become quite comfortable using them, I can tell you that you can figure it out. However here are a few thoughts if by some chance you parachute into Asia and get hungry without prior chopstick knowledge.

1. Ask a local
This is something I try to do as often as possible with or without language skills. Remember locals in Asia teach their children how to use chopsticks, they can teach you. It is also a great way to meet people.

2. Just go for it
Go for it. Stab, poke, prod, use two hands. Just try to use them how you think you should and you will likely be pretty close.

3. Eat in touristy sections of larger cities
Restaurants in area with tourists will have a fork.

4. Carry your own fork everywhere you go
Brings something plastic for airline regulations.

5. Eat with your hands
And carry plenty of napkins

6. Don’t let the small things prevent you from visiting Asia
Okay, now go get that plane ticket to Japan, China or Korea!

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The flight was long 13 hours. The food was mediocre. Chicken and rice, a turkey sandwich, and pizza just before landing. The drive from the Narita Airport to the hotel was nondescript. The airport property itself seemed vast and circuitous with high barbed wire fences all around. I had dinner at the hotel. Little dishes came one after another with tasty bits of fish and veggies and shrimp. There was hot and sour soup and then a yummy sorbet palate cleanser. Then I had a nice steak and delicious fried rice. And for dessert, tiramisu.

Everyone at the hotel is exceptionally friendly and helpful and kind. I am told that is what to expect here, in this country founded on tradition and respect.

It’s not late now. But I feel strange. Sleepy and a bit disoriented. Maybe it was not sleeping on the plane, maybe it was the three hour nap when I arrived. Or maybe it is knowing that I am so far from home and yet not being able to tell. I am grateful for the comfortable bed and the clean, safe surroundings. But I look forward to exploring the unknown.

Jenny Block is the author of “Open: Love, Sex, and Life in an Open Marriage” (Seal Hardcover, June 2008 and Seal Paperback, March 2009), which has been nominated for a Lambda Literary Award. She writes a weekly column for the Dallas Morning News publication Quick called “Sex Talk with Jenny Block” (quickdfw.com). Jenny holds both her BA and her MA in English from Virginia Commonwealth University and taught college composition for nearly ten years. She writes for a wide variety of publications and websites, including huffingtonpost.com, yourtango.com, American Way, Veranda, the Dallas Morning News, the Dallas Voice, edgedallas.com, literarymama.com, Spirit, chow.com, and ellegirl.com.

I leave the hotel and wander into 10 de Agosto, the main food market. I am not that tall, but seem to tower over the local people. Booths containing colorful fruits and vegetables extend like a patchwork quilt beneath a canopy. I see exotic fruits I’ve never seen before, fruits native to Ecuador such as: Tomate de Arbol (tree tomato), Maracuya (passion fruit), Naranjilla (little orange), Taxo (banana passion fruit), and Chirimoya (custard apple) – a soft-skinned,
heart-shaped green fruit that has a hint of bubble gum flavor.

Next to the rows of greens, in stark contrast, is the meat section, which unabashedly hangs slabs of raw meat, whole carcasses stretched down from hangers, stripped of their hides. Body parts behind glass attract flies to flesh. The faint citrus scent of fruit blends in from across the bloodstained tile floor. Nowhere is the sterile smell of chemical sanitizer present.

I spend a few moments observing the market – women selling mini-bananas by the bushel, men slicing through red flesh, clusters of people gathered around booths, making deals, filling their baskets.

Back on the streets, I wander around. In my short time here, I already have a sense of where things are. The major streets in Cuenca are clearly marked with old-fashioned, tiled signs on the corners of buildings. Like many places I’ve been to in Central America, the people in this South American city seem friendly. Cuenca appears to be a balanced combination of busy and calm – a fairly relaxed feel with a bustling influence.

Cuenca is the third largest city in Ecuador (Quito being the largest and Guayaquil the second). It was founded on April 12, 1557 and is known for its charming historical architecture, which led to its nickname “The Colonial Jewel of the South.” In 1999, UNESCO, the World Cultural Heritage Site, recognized it as a historic landmark. Cuenca is known also for its beautiful parks and the famous Rio Tomebamba, which flows through the southern end of the city.

After leaving the market, I head over to Parque Caledron, Cuenca’s plaza principal or main plaza. The bright blue domes of the Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion (the new cathedral) shimmering in the sunlight attracts me. Minutes later, I arrive at the plaza and the impressive church towers over me. I imagine the indigenous people, the Inca Tupac-Yupanqui, constructing this great work of art, carving and laying stone after stone, and I realize there is a story behind every building, every basket of bananas, and every cobblestone street.

I take a seat on one of the benches that line the perimeter of the plaza. Elderly men sit reading newspapers, teenage couples hold hands and stare wide-eyed at each other, small children laugh and chase each other around the fountain in the center, while mothers watch them play. A man pushing an ice cream cart rings the bell, as the children run over with coins jingling in their hands. I feel the sun warm my face and in this moment, the plaza is the center of the colonial jewel that sparkles beneath the clear sky.

Brittany Michelson studied abroad in Costa Rica for a semester in college, where she lived with a host family and was first drawn to the Latin American culture. Since then, she has traveled throughout Central America, and more recently, taught English twice in Ecuador. She is awaiting her next trip to see the rest of South America.

The grand prize includes: a week long trip for two with roundtrip, non-stop airfare from Los Angeles on Air New Zealand, three nights accommodation at Manuia Beach Hotel, two nights at Tamanu Beach Aitutaki, roundtrip domestic airfare Rarotonga to Aitutaki, roundtrip transfers, daily tropical breakfast, One Foot Island Lagoon Cruise, Jungle Quad Tour provided by Coconut Tours, introductory dive provided by The Dive Centre, Progressive Dinner & Wine Tour provided by Cook Islands Tours.

“More and more visitors from the USA and Canada are finding out about our South Pacific secret,” said Glenda Tuaine, acting CEO of Cook Islands Tourism. “We are thrilled to launch this interactive website to show North America the appeal of our destination. Site visitors will learn about our non-stop flight from Los Angeles, our excellent exchange rate and the natural beauty of our islands. These reasons make the Cook Islands the perfect week-long getaway for those on a budget to those searching for utmost luxury.”

The current exchange rate is $1 USD = $1.50 NZD. Amazing exchange rate for the North American traveler!

The winner must be at least 18 years of age and travel May 31, 2011. Blackout dates may apply.

For more information or to enter, visit www.findthecookislands.com.

About the Cook Islands:
Only a 9.5 hour non-stop flight from Los Angeles and just a 2-hour time difference from the west coast of North America, in the Cook Islands you can escape the rush and clutter of everyday life, choosing simply to relax and absorb the vibrantly natural environment, sun-soaked beaches and a unique culture. The beauty and charm of our islands is matched only by the friendliness of our people. Here among your island friends, you will find the hospitality warm and spontaneous, the music and dancing exuberant and the mood relaxed. Perfect for honeymooners, adventure-seekers, families and those who wish to get away from it all; the Cook Islands have something for everyone!

For more information about traveling to the Cook Islands, contact:

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Air New Zealand has taken luxury to new heights with the newly refurbished aircraft featuring extra legroom and more than 400-hours of in-flight entertainment at every seat. Air New Zealand offers a uniquely ‘kiwi’ style of service, providing all passengers with complimentary authentic New Zealand food & wine. As a Star Alliance member, Air New Zealand passengers can earn points and redeem awards on all Star Alliance airlines. For more information about cheap fares to New Zealand and other destinations, please visit www.airnewzealand.com

Effective for stays April 1 – September 30, 2010, the discount of up to 40% applies to room rate only and can be booked between March 1, and March 31, 2010.

For more information or to book visit ParadiseByMarriott.com, contact your travel agent, or call toll-free 1-888-PARADISE. Request code LLF when making reservations. Participating resorts include the Los Suenos Marriott Ocean & Golf Resort, CasaMagna Marriott Cancun Resort, Grand Cayman Marriott Beach Resort, Frenchman’s Reef & Morning Star Marriott Beach Resort, Renaissance Aruba Resort & Casino, Aruba Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, Curacao Marriott Beach Resort & Emerald Casino, JW Marriott Cancun Resort & Spa, St. Kitts Marriott Resort & The Royal Beach Casino, and the CasaMagna Marriott Puerto Vallarta Resort & Spa*. The offer is not valid for groups of ten rooms or more. Blackout dates or other restrictions may apply. Promotion cannot be combined with any other offer, sales promotion, or prior purchase/reservation. (*CasaMagna Marriott Puerto Vallarta Resort & Spa offers discount off their “Stay for Breakfast” rates only).

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We strolled along the waterfront promenade for 15-minutes to Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum’s House, the 1896-home of an early ruler. Admission was fifty cents. Interestingly, the house was kept cool by hanging wet cloths in the four wind towers. When the wind blew over the wet cloths it caused evaporation which is a cooling process. Another 15-minute stroll and we were at the Heritage Village where admission is free. The living museum had a tented Bedouin village, camel rides, children performing traditional dances, weavers, and an exhibition of traditional cooking techniques.

While I was asking the lady sitting on a rattan mat what she was cooking a lady dressed in a traditional abaya and sheyla with a veil bought one of the crepe-like items and wordlessly offered it to me, which I graciously accepted. The cook was wearing a Gulf burqa, which in Dubai is a seldom-seen face covering of metallic-looking cloth.

I watched the cook pour the batter on a flat frying pan creating something similar to a crepe. When it was cooked she cracked an egg on top, spread it around, and then did the same with the cream cheese. Near her another lady was deep-frying what looked like donut holes which were slathered in syrup before serving. John and I bought treats from both ladies for about one dollar each. We sat down to enjoy our “dinner” next to a man in a white kandura. He asked, “How do you like them? You will never find these in a restaurant but my wife makes it all the time.” We told him the food was great as was our entire evening.

Chabab (also called Shebab)
1 1/2 c. milk
1 c. flour
Pinch of salt
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1 tbsp. melted butter
Plus one egg and one wedge of cream cheese for each chabab

Sift the flour and salt into a bowl.
Make a well in the center and add the egg and egg yolk.
Slowly pour in the half of the milk, stirring constantly, then stir in the melted butter.
Beat until smooth.
Add the remaining milk, cover, and let stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. The batter should be the consistency of light cream.
Pour a thin layer evenly over a flat frying pan.
Cook until dry and turn over.
Break one egg on top and spread it quickly over the surface.
Spread cream cheese over top.
In about it minute it was folded in quarters and ready to serve.

Looqemat Dumplings:
3 1/2 cups plain flour – sifted
1/4 ounce plain dried yeast
2 1/2 cups lukewarm water
1 teaspoon sugar
corn oil (for frying)
NB: some recipes call for chopped onions, parsley, and a variety of spices but not the ones we had.

Syrup (or use honey):
2 cups sugar
1cup water
1 lemon, juice of lemon squeezed
Mix Sugar and water, when it thickens add lemon, and bring to a boil.

Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of the lukewarm water, add sugar and set aside until the mixture rises and foams.
Beat rest of the ingredients, except the flour, into the yeast mixture.
Gradually beat in the flour until the mixture becomes a sticky batter
Cover with a damp towel and set in a warm place to rise, approximately 1.5 hours.
Drop spoonfuls of dough in hot oil until golden brown.
Drain and while still hot dip in syrup.

Sandra and her husband, John, are compulsive travelers and writers who have been exploring the world since the 1980s writing all the way. To see more of their travels go to www.sanscott.com. They are on the road seven months a year – half in the US and the other half exploring the rest of the world. They like to promote Slow Travel – taking time to enjoy the uniqueness of each area.

The menu focuses heavily on produce from the local region – scallops, mussels and prawns from Kenmare Bay as well as locally caught sea fish feature heavily on the set menu and in the daily specials.  Local produce is sourced wherever possible and organic ingredients are incorporated when available. Chef Hallissey has created a menu that combines traditional Irish cuisine, such a roast lamb with international influences like the locally reared chicken with a coconut sauce.

The wine list is not extensive but offers a range of French bottles with a small selection other old and new world wines, a few of which are organic.

While seating in the restaurant can be fairly close, the small stone-walled room leads of an air of coziness, rather than being crowded and the service is efficient but without pretension (difficult to carry across with an Irish brogue anyway).

The starter of fresh Kenmare bay prawns was served cold, in their shells, with a citrusy homemade mayonnaise and the salmon (farmed in an area that can practically be seen from the window) was simply accompanied by a light hollandaise sauce. My partner enjoyed fresh crab ‘bundles’ with a tangy salsa followed by Irish Stew with fresh herbs, both courses allowing the freshness of the produce to shine through while not denying the chef of any of his glory.

Rich and creamy homemade ice-cream and a plate of Irish cheeses finished the meal. 

Henry Street, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, Ireland
Open: Monday- Saturday 6pm-10pm. Closed Sunday
Phone: 353 (0) 64 41508

src=”http://www.intheknowtraveler.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/mattscott200.jpg” alt=”mattscott200″ title=”mattscott200″ width=”188″ height=”200″ class=”alignleft size-full wp-image-3954″ />Matt Scott has spent the majority of his adult life working and traveling abroad. A keen writer and photographer his work has appeared on line and in print in publications around the world. He currently lives in Paris where he works for an active travel company.

After all, it is a technique developed by the Masters, way before cameras were even invented. All kinds of studies and theories have been done and conclusions drawn by brain scientists as to how our eyes are drawn to the thirds of a picture. Others say the Rule of Thirds creates energy and exciting tension and that’s why it was developed (Thank you, Mr. Wikipedia have a baloney sandwich on my tab, sometime).
If only the Masters were around today. They’d probably tell all the knuckleheads analyzing and theorizing to go do something important, like, “ Go pick up all the plastic water bottles and bags ruining the landscape. Quit trying to pick our poor brains while we’re dead. Here’s the secret. The real reason we invented The Rule of Thirds, they’d say is:
“Because It Makes Your Pictures LOOK GREAT”

Now, if your camera has a display that places a Tick-Tack-Toe symbol over the scene while composing, that’s a big plus. Just try and line the scene so that the subject is in one of the thirds of the photo. When you have a scene with horizontal lines, like a beach, ocean and sky, try to compose along the lines going across your scene. If the subject is vertical, use those lines.

One of my cameras doesn’t have the Tick-Tack-Toe feature so, I have to estimate. It takes a little practice but, isn’t that difficult. The Statue of Liberty I posted here was taken with my camera without a Rule of Thirds display. I just took another shot of it on my monitor, where I could show you the imaginary lines I use to take the picture. Why did I choose to place the subject in the left third of the picture rather than the right? Energy, tension, excitement, I guess. Now, I’m going to grab a baloney sandwich an head to the beach, see if anybody’s down there picking up trash. Until next time, Happy Shooting!

A wildlife photographer living in Okinawa, Japan, Mike has been published in Apogee Photo Magazine, Boots N all, Brave New Traveler, Go Nomad, Matador Abroad and Trips, The Nihon Sun, Travel Thru History, The Okinawan , Wend Magazine and Photo Guide Japan. He has recently joined the ranks of travel writers, capturing Nature, Festivals, Castles and Cultural shots of the Ryukyu Islands to share with the world. More of his work may be seen at: http://www.mikesryukyugallery.com/

I am not one who is really interested in photos of myself. I don’t spend a lot of time shooting with the lens pointed in my direction but there are a lot of professional photographers who do. Sometimes, though, I get tired of looking at the same profile photo of myself on the dozens of sites I’ve joined and like to throw something different on them so people can see how well I’ve preserved myself. This particular shot of me in the camera store with a gazillion millimeter lens attached to my Pentax was made with the use of an assistant. The photo was taken with my Panasonic DMZ-FZ50. All you need is your camera’s timer.

Rarely will you see me place my camera in the AUTO MODE but, there are a few times I will in order to set a baseline for how to properly expose my manual shot. Here’s how it’s done. Place your camera on a tripod, or something sturdy (Case of beer, fencepost, or a wall), anything which allows you focus on the point where you’ll be standing. Use Manual Focus (Auto focus will work if you know how to lock the focus on your camera) and focus on the spot where you’ll be posing. Set your camera timer to 10 seconds. Press the shutter button and you have plenty of time to get in position. Don’t trip over your tripod legs, rushing to beat the clock. Don’t even worry about fixing your hair or smiling; it’s just a test shot, remember?

After the shutter clicks, go back and review the shot on your LCD screen. Pull up the details on the photo. Some cameras you simply press buttons or turn a wheel, others, you may need to press MENU but, all the EXIF DATA you’ll need will appear. Shutter speed and aperture are what you want to pay attention to. Histograms are great tools for this, as well, if you know how to read them but, that’s another long lesson in itself. Check the focus and framing of your 1st shot and reposition the camera and refocus, if necessary. Then decide how you want to adjust your aperture and shutter because it’s time to switch to MANUAL MODE.

If your test shot looks way overexposed (Bleached and too bright) move your aperture to a higher setting (If in AUTO it was f/5.6, try f/7 or f/8). Overexposure you can also be corrected by shooting at a faster shutter speed. Say it was 1/640 in AUTO; you may want to try 1/800 or 1/1000 for your Manual shot. Take several shots and review each one, making adjustments as you go.

Remember this: When you go to a studio for a professional to take photos, they take 24 pictures just to get you two or three great shots and they’ve got controlled lighting and are supposed to know what they’re doing! So, don’t be ashamed if you have to take 36 or 48 shots in order to get a professional looking photo or two. Digital film is cheap; throw the bad ones away before anyone sees them.

Note: This post was made assuming no assistant was available. You can also do this using a helper. Let them stand in the position where the shot will be taken. Make all your adjustments and let them push the button on your remote or use a cable release. You will still need to make exposure adjustments based upon the different colors and shades of clothing worn, but it’ll give you more than 10 seconds time for your final pose. Your camera, your technique and it’s your photo. While you’re mastering photography, you may be able to teach someone else something. At least offer them a shot so they don’t go home feeling like a robot. Until next time, Happy Shooting!

A wildlife photographer living in Okinawa, Japan, Mike has been published in Apogee Photo Magazine, Boots N all, Brave New Traveler, Go Nomad, Matador Abroad and Trips, The Nihon Sun, Travel Thru History, The Okinawan , Wend Magazine and Photo Guide Japan. He has recently joined the ranks of travel writers, capturing Nature, Festivals, Castles and Cultural shots of the Ryukyu Islands to share with the world. More of his work may be seen at: http://www.mikesryukyugallery.com/