Here’s question from a pained Samsung HLP5063WX DLP television owner,

Dwight asks…

“I have a Samsung DLP TV model No. HLP5063WX/XAA.

About six weeks ago it started to hum for a few minutes during warmup, but would get quiet after a minute or two.

Now, it makes an obvious fan rubbing sound for a few minutes before quieting down. There are no warning messages.

Should I pull off the cover and inspect the cooling fans (for cleaning or lubrication) before I order any parts or should I order one of the fans for replacement. I am handy with tools and good at fixing things, and I have no problem with taking it apart and putting it back together twice.”

A fan problem it isn’t a bad guess, but it likely isn’t the problem with your telelvision. The most likely scenario is that your color wheel is dying and needs a replacement as these are notably defective.

How to tell if this is a fan or the color wheel?

Taking off the back cover is a great way to see if the fans are making the noise. It’s also a great way to get hurt, so be very careful! There is a toggle switch that prevents the TV from turning on, so you’ll have to bypass that by taping it in the closed position.

If you can see the fans, great. I think you’ll find that the sound you’re hearing doesn’t come from the fans, or sync up with their operation.

Once you’re convinced it is the color wheel, read these posts for information on how to replace it. It’s not that tough!

Samsung DLP HL-P5063W Color Wheel User Feedback

How to Replace your Samsung color wheel.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Post from: Jangro.com

Noise in Samsung HLP5063WX/XAA

Sometimes the easiest answers are right there under our noses, and what may seem obvious to some are complete unknowns to others.

Chris asks…

Hey Scott, just a quick question about some of your posts I have seen in the past. On occasion I have read something you’ve written about the iPhone and you will accompany the post with a screen shot of the iphone. My question is – how do you get that capture that shot of the iPhone screen so you can post in an article you are working on?

Getting a screenshot on the iPhone is probably one of the coolest secrets of the iPhone OS, since I think version 2.0. It really couldn’t be easier.

First, navigate to the screen that you want a picture of.

Second, hold down the home button (the big round button on the front bottom of the phone.

Third, while holding the home button, press the power button on the top of the phone.

You’ll see the screen flash white and hear a camera shutter sound. Mission accomplished. The picture of your screen will be in the camera roll.

You can get a picture of literally any screen on the phone. To the right is my locked phone and personalized wallpaper.

Post from: Jangro.com

How to get an iPhone screen shot

If you’re an owner of a Samsung DLP HL-P5063W and are having problems with your color wheel, you’re not alone.

For detailed information on replacing your own color wheel, see this post: How to Replace your Samsung color wheel.

Be sure to check out the information from other users below from this sampling of the comments that I’ve received here on Jangro.com from other users who have had color wheel problems with their HLP5063W.

The common elements appear to be as follows:

• There are two possible color wheels for this television model, depending on the Chassis Number. Look at the label on the right side of the set for the Version #.
  • Version# PW01 or blank: L3 chassis, requires color wheel is BP96-00674A (most common)
  • Version# PU02: L6 chassis, requires color wheel #BP96-01103A
• Many owners have problems with the colors after replacing their wheel. Be sure to look on the new wheel to see if it suggests changing any of the television’s settings.
• Most users have been successful following the directions on this post for replacing your Samsung color wheel, which is for a different model
• To resolve a problem with reversed colors, some owners need to remove a small “jumper” as depicted here
• Some users have also reported configuration settings included with the new wheel that requires a change in the service menu.
• While many people have been successful with this repair, it can also go poorly. In my experience, this is generally due to people not putting all the connections back properly.
  

  Feedback from other Owners

  The following feedback is from other Samsung HLP5036W owners who have described their own color wheel problems, and stories in replacing it.
  
  Most comments come from this post: replacing your Samsung color wheel.

  Brad Sep 12, 2006	I have a Samsung DLP HL-P5063W TV and called the Best Buy technician out to fix the color wheel (making the same noise described above). The technician came out, put the new color wheel in and thought it was defective as the color was off on the TV. The technician played with some (factory I believe) color settings and couldn’t seem to fix it. He replaced the old color wheel. The issue is that when he replaced the old color wheel the issue with the color was still there (and had not been present before he started). My HD television channels have perfect color but my non-HD channels are tinted in such a way that skin tone is a purple-ish color. I had them out a month later and they replaced the entire color wheel (chassis?) and the color problem has now persisted and I am at this moment in a battle with Best Buy to either replace the TV or find a technician that can fix my problem. In a nutshell I am convinced now that the original tech somehow messed up color settings I can not get to (or don’t know how). The color problem was not there before the initial visit and the subsequent technicians only seem to know how to take parts out and put a new part in (none of which have fixed it). I have tried playing with all the color settings the manual speaks of and have not fixed the issue. Has anyone seen or heard anything like this and does anyone have a potential fix for it? Are there color settings that are not in the Manual that the original tech could have screwed with? And why is it just the normal channels and not effecting the HD channels? I am completely stumped.
  Dave Nov 14, 2006	I have the Samsung DLP HL-P5063W also. My “buzzsaw” sound starts when we turn on, but sometimes doesn’t make any noise at all. When it does, it lasts for hours; when we turn off, picture goes black, and the sound continues for 3-4 seconds and gradually fades away (loud to low to no sound…like a table saw shutting down). So I am concerned that it may not be the color wheel as some have described. What do you think?…and by the way, thank you for the great instruction page.
  Nick Jan 30, 2007	I have an HLP5063WX/XAA. I purchased the BP9600250A color wheel and it does not fit. I went on samsungparts.com and they reference BP9600674A for my model TV. When I took the TV apart the color wheel was attached to the cover and appeared to be slightly bigger than the color wheel I purchased. Does anyone have a picture of the color wheel with the part number BP9600674A? I would like to make sure I buy the right one next time.
  Ray Aug 19, 2007	Thank you all! Just wanted to let you know that I applied the procedures to my 50″ Samsung (HLP5063WX)successfully. It all started with a shrieking noise. I opened up the set and tested the fans, then found this site and ended up changing the color wheel. I had to remove the jumper as mentioned by others here to get the color right. Also, adjusted the CCA per the note included with the new color wheel (mute 182 power, cca, and then used the arrows to change the numbers). While I had the TV open, I rotated the lens to focus the image. Normally, you shouldn’t need to do this but my lens was dirty and had to remove and clean it. Hence, had to also refocus the lens. What I did there was remove the shroud around the lens and turned the TV off, adjusted the lens, turned the TV back on, and looked at the “info” text, until I got it right.
  David B Jun 30, 2007	Well, I joined the club today too. I have the HLP5063WX/XAA. As ridonkulous as the instructions are on this site, I found they didn’t translate too well to my particular machine. However, being both brave and ignorant, I pushed forward. Took off all the back screws, took off the back cover of the unit, then took out the screws for the “retaining ring”. Once the ring came off, the input module (left hand side) and optical module (righthand side) unseated and were movable. Removed the bulb and set aside. I had to unplug ONLY the blue/brown power cable and the DVI transfer cable from the input module. Once the optical module was loose, I slowly creeped it out, removed a black plastic housing which covers the color wheel, then removed the color wheel itself. The operation was a little clumsy. At more than one point, I was looking at my machine, in pieces, and was wondering why I had gotten myself into this mess. Anyway the screws were dang tight holding in the wheel, so bear down. I carefully pried out the white/blue wire (great success) and yanked the copper ribbon cable. Replaced, reassembled and away I went. I had only unplugged two things, so plugging back in was a snap. Turned it on and got the stalling/3 blinking lights. SON OF A…… Anyway, flipped the copper ribbon around (metal strips are now facing towards the back of the unit), powered on again and PRESTO!! No more buzzsaw!!! MY LIFE BEGINS TODAY!! Anyway, thanks so much for the photos and links and sharing. For now, I am one happy camper.
  Gregg Nov 14, 2007	Scott, I have s Samsung HLP5063WX/XAA. I replaced the color wheel with Part Number BP96-00674A. When I turned the TV on the color was quite distorted. Everything looked gray/blue. I am not confident that I have the correct color wheel assemby, since samsungparts.com shows model HLP5063W on the compatability list for this part but it does not include the HLP5063WX/XAA on the compatability list. In fact I cannot find a color wheel for that model. I not sure if my problem is that I have the wrong part, if I did not put everything back together correctly, or if these are color settings on the TV that need to be adjusted. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks. Gregg
  Corey Dec 19, 2007	Thank you so much for this guide. I have a HLP5063W. While I couldn’t exactly use your guide as the insides are substantially different. Your bravery gave me the gumption to try it myself. 2.5 hours later I have a new color wheel in a working Sammy!! Thank you!
  Cobalt Feb 20, 2008	I called to get an update on my order for a new color wheel for my HLP5063W today (12/19) from the Partstore and they are saying they’re expecting to receive shipments on 1/4/08. Can I trust these guys to speak the truth about the shipment date or are they at the mercy of the manufacturer? My cw made a shattering sound, like when you heave a beer bottle at the fireplace after Game 4 of the World Series. Anyway, I plan on doing the repair job myself, maybe I’ll get ahold of Jakey for some safety tips! Cobalt
  Mark Feb 7, 2008	Just finished the color wheel swap on my HLP5063W. The layout of the chassis is a little bit different, but this helped greatly. I did have to remove the jumper. You will know this when the screen color is blue and pink/orange. It is real small and you need needle nose pliers (tiny) to get at it. One thing to note that I hadn’t read above……if you test the TV before putting the panel back on, you will get no picture and a flashing “lamp” light. There is a small switch in the back near the lamp that is tripped when the panel is off. Took me 20 mins to figure that one out!
  jeff Mar 27, 2008	I have a Samsung HL-P5063W that will no longer turn on the lamp at all. All I get when I try to power up is the fan cycle 3-4 times and then the three blinking lights of doom. From reading the blog sounds like a couple of cases where the color wheel failed, but I haven’t had any of the “banshee wailing” ever from my tv. I want to figure out what the problem is, but not sure what to look at. -no banshee -lamp doesn’t turn on (have replacement, no luck) -didn’t have any freeze-up with picture Any advice or help is welcome, Thanks, jeff
  Russ Mar 1, 2008	I could just copy and paste Mark’s post as well as many others. Although mine is the Samsung HLP5063W. Shattered Color Wheel, went through the process of replacing CW, the lamp and eventually the ballast with no luck. It turns on and off three times with only sound and then all lights flash in front. With everyone having the same symptoms it seems like there should be a common solution. PLEASE…if anyone has fixed this problem please post the fix!!! Many folks would be eternally grateful.
  George Apr 29, 2008	Help!!!! I’ve replaced my color wheel on my samsung HLP5063W DLP television and now my red and blue colors are reversed. I’m haven’t had any success with un-plugging a jumper. Are there anyother suggestions.
  Caleb Dec 5, 2008	After replacing the color wheel on my Samsung HLP5063w (which I did with all your help, thank you) the colors were inverted so I pulled the jumper. The colors went back to normal for the most part but there is still a color issue. The colors are blochy. I don’t really know how to explain it. The dark colors look horrible almost can’t see to dark, and the bright colors almost look to bright. I just need to know how to set the colors back to normal. I have been on the menu, and the service menu going back and forth looking for the perfect picture. Nothing is working the picture is not back to normal. PLease if anyone out there can help me I would really appreciate it.
  Alain Dec 6, 2008	My Color wheel also shattered (HLP5063W which was only 3.5 years old!) but haven't ordered the parts online yet – looks like there are 2 versions – guessing the 'gold ball bearing' is old, while mine is silver (air bearing ?) and I don't have the jumper option – my optical board wa replaced a week after I bought it, so I might have gotten the newer parts, which still failed ! R&J, where did you order your part from ? most seem to show the old part, and partStore.com cant tell me if they have it (and have bad reviews online) – and was yours gold bearing or silver ?
  Bill Oct 31, 2008	12/08-My HL-P5063W color wheel shattered after 3 years. Thanks for the great directions. It took me 2 hours but I was being extra careful and taking notes. Turned it on and what a great picture. No adjustments necessary.
  Lance Aug 2, 2008	This tutorial gave me enough strength to fix the color wheel of my own HLP5063W! I hope I cold come up with my very own tutorial for that model…
  John G Jun 21, 2008	Hi Scott, These are excellent instructions and I replaced my color wheel on my Samsung HL-P5063W easily. However, after I did so, the color depth was way off. Mid range colors are fine. However, bright colors and dark colors looks “solarized”. (i.e. what should be a smoothe transition of color starts to looks splotchy.) It’s like trying to display a 64million color image in 256 colors. But it’s only the lights and the shadows. I’m guessing that maybe there’s some setting in the service menu to compensate, but I don’t have the first clue how to adjust it. John
  Mike Nov 17, 2008	Hello, I just replaced my color wheel & bulb on my HLP5063W and the humming noise is gone. I do have one other problem – the green & blue colors are reversed. I checked all of the settings and even changed the CCD values to the new ones that came with the wheel. I even tried to pull out the jumper as I’ve read online which some people had reversed colors, but that screws up all three colors. Any help would be grateful
  Dave Nov 6, 2008	My HLP5063WX/XAA is buzzing off and on and if I whack the back of the tv with my hand a few times it will stock. I think this is probably the fan and not the color wheel. Does anyone have experience with something like this?
  John W. Oct 21, 2008	Hey Jangro, Thanks for this website. I've found the photos and comments very helpful – so much so that I actually attempted the repair of my Samsung DLP myself. I have a Samsung model HLP5063W and a few weeks ago it abruptly shut off and I got the dreaded 3BL and I could hear the color wheel spinning fairly loudly. I ordered a color wheel from samsungparts.com (BP96-00674A) and installed it using this website and a video that I found on Youtube. When I turned the TV back on I could no longer hear the color wheel, but I still wasn't seeing any picture (other than a very faint white light in the upper left corner). I decided to order a replacement lamp from discount-merchant.com because I thought that might be the problem. When I installed that the TV still attempts to “boot up” 3 times and then I get the 3BL. Do you (or any of the great readers of this site) have any ideas before I have to go out and spend a bunch of money on a repair guy?
  Mel Z. Nov 11, 2008	Hi,I have a question! I replaced the color wheel and the lamp on my samsung HL P5063W. Now I have sound but no video. The lamp blinks for about 30 seconds and then all three lights blink.I cannot turn the TV off with the clicker or the power button.I have to pull the plug to turn it off.I have rechecked my work several times and all seems O.K…Any suggestions? Please help! Thanks, Mel
  byldin Dec 27, 2008	Change the color wheel on a HLP5063WX/XAA and it was not difficult. You description, although different, was close enough and the potential issues came in handy. After installing, it did not work. I noticed the ribbon wire was lined up opposite from original as far as contact area. At first I had no picture. I re-installed it making sure the ribbon wire was making contact. One power was restored the picture was orange. After removing the jupper clip as described, the picture was perfect. I cleaned the lense cover which cleaned up the picture clarity. I also replaced the lamp and the picture is better than when I purchased the set. In touble shooting, I found it helpful to lean a srewdrive handle against the safty switch. I could turn on the set both with and without the lamp in place. Without you can view the color wheel running through the light hole. With the lamp I could detect the color switch. Just keep your hands out off the set when testing. Thanks for all the info on your site. Save me hundreds with total parts at less than $250.00. PartStore.com for the color wheel for $113 (free shipping over $75) & Ebay (Discount-MerchantCOM) for the lamp at $141.
  MikeMac Oct 17, 2008	Hello I have a question. I have a Samsung HLP5063w and recently replaced the bulb. Tv worked for about a month and now its shutting off again but now has a buzzing sound. I am pretty sure its the color wheel because that is where the sound is coming from with the back off. My question is if the color wheel is bad and wont spin at all or up to speed will that shut the tv down? I can get a picture when I know its spinning and it doesnt when its not. Or is this just a coincidense?
  Vivek Aug 6, 2008	Hi, My problem – Samsung HL-P5063W flickering picture and purple/blue/pink picture for some time after turning on. I purchased this TV in August 2004. The lamp was replaced in 2006. Since last year, I’ve been seeing a new problem. After I turn on the TV, the picture is mostly purple/blue/pink in color, and colors flicker for some time, before all the colors come up. I can hear a whirring sound when this color correction happens – sounds as if something came to life (color wheel?). Sometimes I am not so lucky, and the flickering/discoloration does not go away (specially when the TV is switched on a short while after switching it on – even about 1 hour or so later). I opened the TV about 6-8 months back, and located the color wheel assembly, and reseated it and reconnected it’s connectors (thanks to the excellent instructions in your tutorial!). The problem did not go away, but it became much less pronounced (the colors would flicker, but only for about 10-15 seconds). Now the problem is back again, and worse. I tried the color wheel reseating trick again, but no luck. Twice. Does this look like a bad color wheel, or could it be a bad optics board/PCB? When it does work, the colors and picture are perfectly fine. I would like your opinion on this so that I know which direction to take in fixing this issue. thanks! Vivek
  Chris Sep 29, 2008	Hi. I have a Samsung HLP5063W. About 3 or 4 months ago I successfully replaced my color wheel because the whining was getting really bad. The only trouble I had was the picture looked strange with the new color wheel until I figured out there was a jumper I had to remove and all was well. The TV worked great…until now. I power on the TV and I get the “three blinking lights” issue (lstandby/temp, timer, lamp) and I get no light from the bulb. I removed the cover and figured it was time to replace the lamp. I purchased the lamp assembly and installed it with no difficulty. But I STILL have the same issue, the TV boots up and makes noise as if it’s coming on but then shuts down to the three blinking lights. I have unplugged it and plugged it back in several times. Any thoughts on what this could be? THANK YOU for any assistance.
  Todd Nov 28, 2008	I have an HLP5063W that makes a LOUD humming noise after it has been on for around 25 minutes. The fan seems to working fine. Do you think this is the color wheel?
  AA741 Dec 9, 2006	I replaced color wheel of my samsung HLP5063WX/XAA DLP that I bought in 2004. Thankfully, it worked the first time, making me a genious in my circle .
  Jeffrey Apr 13, 2007	We have an HLP4663WX/XAA. All the usual bad color wheel symptoms. Read your excellent article, ordered a new color wheel and, although our model differs from yours, were able to map your photos to our hardware. Turned it on, and it appears that red and blue are switched. Replaced the old color wheel, and before it died screeching, the colors were correct. Put the new one back, and colors are bad. Hmm. The new color wheel has the same color segment configuration as the old, but the bearing case is twice as thick, and the wiring attaches at different locations. The new part # is BP96-00674A, which PartStore says is correct, but the box it was in, ordered from Samsung, also says HLP5063WX/XAC, which is not our model. So, is the new wheel just bad, or does it need some calibration? Note, when we look at the Color Weakness menu item, it displays “Red” as the color blue, and “Blue” as the color red, so the wheel seems to be lying to the electronics. Darn!
  WillB Jun 24, 2007	Hi all, and thank you for taking the time to post all this helpful info! I have a P5063W and have read some of the responses here and maybe this is a dumb question, but here goes… ~Owned TV for one year ~3BL started, no sound, no picture, just blinking lights on the front panel ~Replaced bulb…no change ~My question is: Color wheel or DMD board or something else. Thanks for any info you might offer!
  gary Jun 30, 2007	i have hlp5063w. today message “check fan no 1″ appeared on the screen. after about 2 minutes tv turned off by itself. is it a cooling fan or something else(color wheel)??? help please.
  Gregg Aug 5, 2007	Scott, I have s Samsung HLP5063WX/XAA. I replaced the color wheel with Part Number BP96-00674A. When I turned the TV on the color was quite distorted. Everything looked gray/blue. I am not confident that I have the correct color wheel assemby, since samsungparts.com shows model HLP5063W on the compatability list for this part but it does not include the HLP5063WX/XAA on the compatability list. In fact I cannot find a color wheel for that model. I not sure if my problem is that I have the wrong part, if I did not put everything back together correctly, or if these are color settings on the TV that need to be adjusted. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks. Gregg
  Hari Oct 21, 2007	I replaced color wheel on Samsung HL-P5063W today successfully. I had to remove the jumper to get the colors right. Then my blacks were off, they were shimmering. Thankfully I read a post from TimP who said that he adjusted IndexDelay on his settings (PowerOff, Mute, 1, 8, 2, PowerOn) to 45 and the blacks were back to normal. I did the same on my TV and my blacks are back to normal now. Thanks to the author of the website and everyone who made useful suggestions/Tips/Techniques.
  Donald Oct 21, 2007	I bought my daughter a HLP5063W, 50″ Samsung DLP in March 2005. In approx. March 2007 it started to develope a slight humming noise the same as described in all the above post (Color Wheel?). It wasnt loud enough yet for her to start worrying. It started to have startup problems as if the lamp was going out over the last several months. Finally today, she called saying it wont turn on and its blinking three times etc., I didnt look at the set but immediately went to researching for a new bulb. After hours of searching(BP96-00826A Replaces Old Unit (BP9600608A)) I decided to go to her house and remove the housing which was very simple, I then removed just the bulb itself from the housing which was very simple as well. Bottom line I just bought the bulb itself for $109. http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-HLM437… After I did this and ordered the new bulb i read this and other forums and discovered that maybe just removing the bulb and plugging it back in could make it work some more. WELL bingo I removed the bulb and plugged it back in and it WORKED…NOW having said that I used the TV OFF-Mute-1-8-2 Power then scrolled to options to check my lamp life…however ENTER would not work, you have to use the RIGHT ARROW key on my remote…ANYWAY Bingo 11,848 HOURS of bulb..I could not believe this that 13 hours of television since i got it per day…but I do have my computer hooked up to it so I have a 50″ display so that probably it…ANYWAY I noticed when i put the bulb back in that the noise was irritating and louder since I last heard it. I guess I will replace the color wheel too since I already ordered a new bulb…The color wheel is the cheapest at http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/B… So for about $225 dollars you can replace the bulb AND the color wheel with paitence. I paid around $2999 when I bought this unit so its well worth it. I will let you know how it goes with installation. This is a great site and I particularly want to let you know about the issue with checking bulb life where you can also reset the bulb life as others have stated,…BUT DONT mess with anything else in there thats probably why no many know how to do those functions and that may be how others have messed up the settings somehow.
  Donald Dec 9, 2007	This is excellent as already stated to change the color wheel for the HLP5063W http://kploymp.net/dlp_cw.aspx What really makes me made is the appearance or implication that Samsung already knew of the bearing problem during production…based on the “Open or Close” Jumper…I dont know anything about electronics but IT SOUNDS LIKE SAMSUNG needs to send me a FREE COLOR WHEEL>>> CAN ANYONE else go to the above link and scroll to the bottom and put this in lamen terms as to how the jumper being pulled out for the new air driven wheel versus bearing wheel is a indication they knew? Im kinda of dumb soooo….anyone?
  Merv Feb 10, 2008	I changed my color wheel after following the instructions on this site. I have the HLP5063W and completed the task with no problems. Of course I had to open up and remove the jumper as my new color wheel has the air bearings. After that I too experienced the poor quality in dark scenes. After adjusting the “index delay” in my case upward, my picture improved greatly. I set my CCA values for x and y red, green, blue and white to the specs on the sheet I received with my new color wheel. One more thing. I followed the instructins on one of the comments about synchronizing the color wheel, and using user reset to save the changes. In my case when I restarted my set, I had a blank screen. I then ” unplugged” my set and after plugging it back in and restarting it,my picture had indeed improved. Still not completely satisifed, I think I will do some more minor tweaking. Thanks for all the info, I had called around TV repair services in my area, and none of them had a clue as to what was wrong. Some even told me to scrap my set.
  Rick Feb 19, 2008	I have a DL-P5063W and just changed my color wheel to eliminate the whine. Worked great but now have a picture alignment issue. others here have stated same problem, I have a 1.3 inch black band at the top of the screen so clearly the mirror or reflector are out of whack. I tried the service menu that just shifts the picture in the same space, up or down but I am not using the entire screen. I am sure the light engine tray is all the way in on the two pins, and I cannot find any adjustment of the lens, or any screws that some have referred to. the entire unit seems to be plastic encased. Anyone find a solution to this??
  Franco L May 1, 2008	Thank-you to all who posted I just finished installing a new color wheel on My HLP5063W. After all necessary adjustments it is complete. To sum it up for the next guy: I had to change a color wheel after months of procrastination. 1. Order and replace color wheel. 2. If blue and red colors are reversed you have one of the new air bearings on the CW. You have to pull the pin at the back of the board. This is will help the color situation. To achieve perfection. 3. Turn on the tv go to a channel with an assumed good picture. Now turn off the TV only (leave satellite or cable box running). 4. Hit from the remote mute-1-8-2-power. The TV should turn on in service mode. With the channel running in the back ground. Scroll down to CCA toggle right and begin to enter the values. The values you are entering are the ones included with your new color wheel. Should be stuck to the top. Enter them all in. go back in a couple of time so you know they are saved. If color is perfect you are done. If blacks are not right you have to adjust the wheel speed. 5. Go to the ddp 1011 or ddp 1010 option on the main menu. Scroll to delay option adjust it untill the picture looks good. My TV went from 36 to 50. But other models may vary. I learned all this from everyone who posted previous posts on this site. This is just how I corrected the problem. Thank-you to all who posted.
  Brad Jul 9, 2008	Just wanted to drop a note of thanks for providing the information and promoting confidence for changing samsung color wheels. I had my color wheel and new dlp lamp for 3 months before the screaming banshee drove me to open up the TV (HLP5063w). The whole process took about 2.5 hrs and went without a hitch. The projection bulb was caked with dust and after cleaning it, replacing the color wheel and lamp I have a brand new TV that looks and sounds as good as it did on day one. Thanks alot Brad
  Craig Aug 5, 2008	I just finished replacing the color wheel on my HLP5063W/XAA. All went well – nothing damaged, everything reconnected. BUT – when I hooked it up and plugged it in – only one response – the red STAND BY / TEMP light on the front is all that works. No picture, no sound (although the loud humming sound is gone). Any suggestions?
  Robert Jan 14, 2009	I have a TLP5063W and just replaced the color wheel. The process went better than expected, but now the tv picture does not come on, only two lights flash on the power button. Red “Stand By/Temp” and Green “Lamp”. I pulled the center panel out and re-checked connections and all looks fine. Can anyone please help? THANKS SCOTT FOR THE SITE
  Greg Jan 31, 2009	Can anyone please help????????????? I replaced the color wheel on my HLP5063WX/XAA and the set came up and operated but the it is like the blue has replaced red. A real blue coat shows up as magenta? Did I leave a cable off or do I need to turn the ribbon cable around or remove a jumper as one of the blogs indicates? Has anyone else had the same problem?? I went from a great picture with a bad sound to a bad picture with quiet and I can really hear all the voices now. I just need one more step–I hope.
  greg Mar 15, 2009	i have a hlp5063wx/xaa, i just replaced the color wheel and ballast. it's working, but i have on issue with the green background it's like a shadow. when watching a movie specially when dark shadow will appear green. what is wrong.
  Paul V Jan 17, 2009	I have the exact same problem with my HLP5063WX/XAA Samsung DLP. I replaced the Color Wheel and had the exact same issue with the greens and reds as a problem. My son calls it "Clay Faces" when a dark scene comes up. The reds look smeared and I can see the screen lightly flashing in the backround like the color wheel is faulty. Let me know if you are seeing the same problem with red. Also, I am considering replacing the color wheeel again, believing I was issued a bad part from Parts.com. This problem started as soon as I replaced the color wheel about two years ago and I have just been living with the problem since. Prior to that my picture was awesome until the bearings failed with the original OEM color wheel.
  Kevin P Jan 24, 2009	I have replaced the color wheel for my samsung HL-P5063W with the correct new air bearing wheel BP67-00099A but now my tv does not even turn on! It used to come on and screech, but now nothing… I did remove the jumper on the panel with a needle nose, but still nothing! There are two lights on the front lamp (green light) and stanby/Temp (red light) what is wrong now anybody know??? All help would be greatly appreciated. This was a previous add that I had read. It is the exact same thing that happened to my tv. I replaced the colour wheel and it worked for 2 days. Now the tv won't even turn on. It will turn on and off three times without a picture or without the colour wheel working and then turn off completely with the three lights blinking. I have made sure that the back of the tv was on or that I was pressing that sensor if the back wasn't on. I have made sure that all the of the wires and connections are secure. I am getting desperate as I have spent a lot of time on this tv lately. Thanks for your help!
  Greg Mar 18, 2009	Help, I replaced the color wheel on my HLP5063WX/XAA and the quiet is nice. One day later, the TV does not come on anymore. It tries to come up but the green "Lamp" word on the front keeps flashing. I actually replaced the lamp with a new one and it made no difference. When I turn the TV onl, I do not hear the color wheel at all so I am wondering if it is actually getting powered or not. Can someone please point me in the right direction??????????????
  Paul V May 21, 2009	I just want to make a quick comment concerning the adjustment that may be required after replacing this color wheel. I replaced mine and ended up with what could only be described as "Clay Faces" dark hues of green in dark scenes. I researched this problem for years and found a thread on AVS Forum, heres is the web address: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=4… (#967) which fixed my problem. My DLP model number is HLP5063WX/XAA, this may help others in the future. My Samsung looks great now thanks to dengland. The jangro site is a very good site to replace the color wheel and I will suggets it to anyone who asks, but you really need to know what could occur after installation. It is not a plug and play device, your TV may require some adjustment afterwards. If you are not comfortable going into the Service Menu then you should hire a professional to perform calibration on your set.
  David Apr 21, 2009	The photos and directions were extremely helpful when I replaced the color wheel on my Sansumg HLP5063WX last weekend. The set powered-up and a picture appeared. The jubilation was immediately replaced by dismay. New problems began–the colors were hideous. The blue and red had changed places. Attempts to use the POWER OFF-MENU-1-8-2-POWER ON sequence to initiate service mode did no good because each of the 10 options resulted in a NOT AVAILABLE response. How can this be? Furthermore, the drooled for remedy of removing the jumper made me feel jumped upon–I have no yellow and white sticker nor do I have a jumper. If the jumper is like the ones on PC hard drives, I would recognize it. What am I missing?
  Mike May 8, 2009	Just wanted to say thanks for the great write up. I just got my color wheel in the mail today for my HLP5063W, and it only took about an hour to remove and replace. Powered up and it works like a charm. Thanks again!
  Tim Jul 9, 2009	I have a model HLP5063WX/XAA (50″) and it was even easier than this procedure. I’m an electrical engineer so I have experiences similar to others that posted. Even still, this model is highly compartmentalized such that, after removing the back, only two screws hold the entire optical bench in place on a sliding rack. It even has alignment pins in the rack so you know it’s in the proper position when reinstalling it. Also, there is a small RFI shield on the lower right that requires the removal of four additional screws. The connector panel is fully mounted to the electronics rack behind it so you don’t have to mess with that. And the projection lens mates to the display case with a fixed, plastic “hood”, if you will, so that there is no messing with a foam sheath as mentioned in step six. There are many differences between the pictures here and my model, but don’t let that scare you. Ignore everything except for the optics and you’ll be fine. I had no problem with any of the connectors, but you should examine each one to determine how they are detached. There is one DB type connector between the optics and the electronics racks that was a little tricky because the screw hold-downs were tight. Also there are only two screws that hold the color wheel in place, and in my unit, they were silver while the others were brass colored. I had to remove that bearing jumper to get the colors right, but I plucked that thing out with some hemostats through the lamp opening like somebody already suggested. It’s very quiet and the colors are exceptional with the new bulb. The ballast was fine. I ordered my parts on-line at PartStore.com and used 2-day shipping. On the third day the box was there. The data for the parts as follows: Lamp, BP96-00608A, $169.95 [Note; the sticker on the TV says BP96-00608A(P), but as far as I can tell, the (P) is only for specifying the actual bulb w/o the holder. On one website they wanted this much just for the bulb, and it would be much more difficult to just replace the bulb, especially w/o touching it. Another website indicated that a different part number was a "replacement" for this one, but I wouldn't trust that. There were slight differences between the stock and new bulb holder, but they looked like improvements to keep stray light out of the beam path.] Color wheel, BP96-00674A, $139.95 [I couldn't find anything in or on the TV to indicate the proper part number for this. After removal, I compared it to the picture on PartStore.com. There were only two to choose from for the HLP, so it was a no-brainer. On a different website they had the wrong picture for this part.] I really appreciate this procedure and it saved me untold hundreds of dollars. I didn’t need courage to start it, but it showed me that it’s not as complicated as you might think. I have experience with CRTs and, in the old days, it was sometimes better to just toss the damn thing. This was not that case. I hope to get another 4-5 years of high quality video out of it, and I might even order another set of parts just to have them available. This is going to be a great “spare” TV one day. Thank you!
  Deb Jul 8, 2009	Follow-up: I received the new color wheel (with the housing) today from the eBay seller (ordered on 07/06/09 at 3:40 pm). It took about 1/2 hour for the entire repair, plus a little time looking for the jumper in the grill between the fan on the left and the lamp. There are three square holes in the grill — but no jumper or anything resembling a jumper. When I turned on the TV, there were some thin horizontal white lines, but those disappeared in a couple of minutes. (The same thing happened when I took it all apart three days ago, so I wasn’t worried about the lines.) The color looks great and looks better than it ever has. The blues on Fox News now look like they’re supposed to look, and HD looks better than ever. I think I’ve probably needed a new color wheel since I bought this TV from Best Buy in late July 2004. I’m pretty sure they delivered a floor model to me, because the TV I looked at when I purchased it was gone the next day when I went back there for something else. In the first month or two, their warranty service paid for two new boards and for soldering one of the component connections in the back. Then about a year or so later, they paid for a new light engine (had an annoying shadow in the display). I haven’t gone into the Service Menu yet. The current colors look fine to me, but I might do that in awhile and change the CCA values to those on the sticker that came with the new color wheel. Thanks again for providing your instructions, Scott! You saved me a lot of money! Today, I didn’t need to look at any instructions. And I didn’t need to remove the lamp housing (that square metal thing in front of the color wheel). I had no problems with removing the old ribbon cable and white/blue cable. I had no jumper to remove (on model HLP5063WX/XAA) and really don’t think I need to enter the Service Menu.
  Deb Apr 16, 2009	In the last few days, I’ve been reading all the comments from the present back to page 19, in early February 2008. It’s been very interesting, and I’ve learned alot about my HLP5063W 50″ TV. I plan on continuing to read the older comments while waiting for a new color wheel to arrive in a day or two. About a month or so ago, my TV started turning itself off once or twice a day. I researched this on the web and found a solution: Pull out the lamp and reseat it. So I did that, and the TV quit turning itself off. Then about two weeks ago, I woke up hearing a buzzing sound from the back of the TV. I turned it off, unplugged it for a few minutes, turned it back on, and the buzzing was gone. About a week later, I woke up again hearing a buzzing sound. So I did the same thing, turned it off, unplugged it for a few minutes, turned it back on, and the buzzing was gone. That’s when I decided to research the buzzing sound and found this site. I the comments on this main page and then printed the instructions after deciding I needed a new color wheel. I went to rivervalleyelectronics.net and found that I needed to determine if my color wheel was style A or B. So I proceeded to follow Scott’s steps above (and also printed out the instructions at http://kploymp.net/dlp_cw.aspx , which more closely matches my TV). I had no problems getting to the color wheel, which is still intact, but badly smudged all around the wheel. I found I have style A, so I ordered a new color wheel from an eBay seller for $134.99, including shipping. I was able to put everything back together, and the TV came on fine. I’ve heard no more buzzing sounds since then (two days ago), but I’ve noticed that some of the colors on the display are not right…blues are more purplish, greens aren’t dark enough, some graininess, and less sharpness, but I hadn’t noticed the changes in the colors until I put the TV back together. They were probably there, though, before I took the TV apart. I just wanted to list my TV’s symptoms and thank you very much for this site. It’s been very helpful, and I’m very confident I’ll have no problems when I actually replace the color wheel. I ordered one with the housing, so I won’t have to mess with using the same housing. The extra cost for the housing was minimal. Some tips: Place the removed screws on separate pieces of paper that are labeled for where they go. Make notes as you dissassemble everything, so you can follow the notes in reverse when putting it all back together. The screws holding my color wheel in place look different from normal screws, but a small screwdriver worked fine. (At first, I thought I was gonna have to go to Home Depot to buy a special screwdriver or socket bit and then realized I just needed a smaller screwdriver.) As Scott keeps saying, be sure you reconnect all the cables and make sure they’re all tight, and of course, be sure the copper ribbon cable from the color wheel is connected in the same way it was when you disconnected it.
  thette May 13, 2009	I replaced the color wheel, now the blue and red color are off so I tried to access the service menu by pressing mute 1,8,2 then power by so doing I lost my picture but the sound is still on and the light is flashing on the front, the tv starts and run without any picture then tries to shut down and starts again can’t turn off from the remote or the tv itself have to pull plug to turn off. this is samsung hlp5063wx/xxa. I changed the lamp about 2 months ago and just changed the color wheel. Please does anybody have any idea what is going on and how I can safely access the service menu to adjust the color that is off.
  Craig Jun 13, 2009	Tim, thanks for your post. I also have a HLP5063WX/XAA and when I went looking for color wheels I kept getting conflicting part numbers. Thanks to your post I now know exactly which color wheel I need. I tore mine apart before I ordered any parts just to make sure I was getting the correct color wheel, but as you mentioned, there are no usable part numbers on the color wheel. You’re right, our model is significantly easier to service since I’m guessing they are newer than the model used in the instructions. I used to do TV repair about 20 years ago and I still service my own electronics so I wasn’t too intimidated I just wanted some hint as to what would be inside. And thanks Scott, for the great write up.
  hugh Jun 13, 2009	I have the same problem. With my HL-P5063W I installed a color wheel BP96-00674A A and my picuture is fuzzy and the blacks are green.Just like the in the UPDATE,I removed the jumper. TV works Great
  hugh May 14, 2009	I had the same problem. With my HL-P5063W.On the color wheel make sure the metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
  Michael Jul 10, 2009	I have a HLP5063WX/XAC. Does anybody know the part number of the color wheel for that TV? Ciao Michael
  Deb Oct 14, 2009	Craig (and Bruce): The shadows could be caused by the Index Delay being set too low. The Index Delay setting can be found under DDP1011 in the Service Menu. Mine was originally set for 44, which still seems to be the best setting for my TV after replacing color wheel. When adjusting this setting, you’ll see a red bar at the bottom of the screen. Find the median setting when the bar is a solid red. When I decreased the Index Delay to around 35 or lower, I started seeing more graininess or shadows. When you’re done with the adjustment, push the Menu button on the remote to return to the main menu in the Service Menu. Then push Power Off and Power On to exit the Service Menu. My new color wheel is BP96-00674A and looks exactly like the old color wheel. I did not change the old CCA values, and my TV (HLP5063WX/XAA) has no visible jumper to remove in the grill between the fan on the left and the lamp.
  Mike S	I replaced the color wheel in my HLP5063W tonight. It went pretty well. I was able to do it all in about 2 hrs after watching a video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx4pbNjsxfU. I thought I’d post a photo of the bad color wheel. It actually had a chunk missing and there was shattered glass all over in the housing when I took it out. I used a vaccum to get everything and had to reference the photos I took a few times to make sure i was getting everything back together correctly. It was very apparent that the bearing was bad. When i tried spinning the wheel it had a dragging sound to it. Kudos to all those who provided info on his site. It basically saved me a boatload of money since I’m hours away from the nearest service center.

Post from: Jangro.com

Samsung DLP HL-P5063W Color Wheel User Feedback

I’m 7 Days into using both a Droid and iPhone and my eyes are still wide open.

Despite what I hear from people like Michael Arrington that the Droid is the same size of the iPhone, I just don’t feel that’s the case.

So for the first time today, I really took a good look at the Droid side by side with the iPhone.

Here are two views that are pretty telling.

The length and width dimensions on the phones are nearly identical as you can see from the red lines in the following picture.

The rounded corners on the iPhone do take away from some of the heft and give it a much smoother and smaller feel.

The screen on the Droid is a bit longer than the iPhone screen (yellow lines) but the iPhone screen is wider by about the same amount. This picture is not an accurate view of the screen width since it is not a straight-down shot.

The top phone is an iPhone 3Gs with a Crown case on it.
The middle is the Droid (obviously) and the bottom phone is an iPhone 3G.

More than the width and height, I think the end-view is the most interesting, and illustrative of why the iPhone feels and looks so much smaller.

Again, left to right, iPhone 3G, Droid, iPhone 3GS with Crown case.

Not only is Droid about 25% thicker than the iPhone, the rounded sides give the phone a MUCH thinner feel. So even though the iPhone is fat in the middle, it feels and appears thinner even than it really is.

Even with the Crown case on the 3GS that makes them nearly the same thickness, it still feels much smaller with the rounded edges.

This is a technique Apple used very effectively on the MacBook Air.

I hope Motorola and the other Android Smartphone manufacturers can learn something from the Apple designers.

Because I absolutely love the Android 2.0 Operating System. The phone itself is nice, but it’s got a lot of room for improvement.

Post from: Jangro.com

Droid vs. iPhone Size Comparison

My Motorola Droid phone has a problem. The battery cover is too loose. The combination of a loose cover, rubberized backing on the phone, and my pocket means the cover frequently falls off.

I’ve seen a number of discussions in Droid forums about this, so I know I’m not alone.

Here’s a very simple solution that I’m using on my own Moto Droid. The cover hasn’t fallen off since.

And a little scotch tape makes it “permanent”…

Post from: Jangro.com

Droid-Paper-Scissors, How to Easily Fix Your Droid’s Loose Battery Cover

Joseph writes…

I was doing some research and had a question about my Samsung HD DLP 50″ TV. Model#HL-R5067-W. We were getting green and purple vertical lines on the TV at first.

Then our HD channels came in great but other stations were not coming in. We are under warranty and had a repair man out. He thinks it is the DMD card. The TV has since stopped working. The power comes on and the lamp tries to light up but is real dim with no picture. Then it shuts off.

The warranty people called back and told us they want to exchange our Tv than fix it.

Is this right? I know DLP are on the outs. Would it cost more to fix it that to replace it for a new one? What do you think?

First, I’d say if someone wants to replace your television rather than fix it, I’d strongly consider taking the replacement. Assuming this television is not available any more, you’ll get newer technology, and a fresh warranty. With parts and labor, this could easily run up toward replacement costs.

And if they do replace it, it is unlikely they’re not going to take your old one…which you can fix yourself if you’re so inclined.

That brings me to your issue of the vertical lines and now not working at all. I would agree with the assessment of the repair technician that it’s the DMD board. A new DMD board will run you several hundred dollars, hardly worth it, but a refurbished DMD board can be found for only a few hundred.

Post from: Jangro.com

Samsung DLP Vertical Lines

I’ve been using the Droid for almost a week now, and while amazing, it does make me appreciate some of the things we have going on with the iPhone.

Multi-touch – I still find myself trying to zoom in on the browser with a reverse pinch. The Android browser is perfectly usable with it’s double tab zoom, but the pinch wins. Unfortunately, Apple has a patent application in on that which may be preventing others from implementing it.

Byline – I use Google Reader to keep up on feeds, and the Byline iPhone app is an amazing iPhone front-end to Google reader. I like it better than Google Reader. There are some Android apps that uses Google Reader, but nothing blows me away. What kills me is that this is Google’s OS. How can they not have a GReader app built in, or at least available.

The home button – There’s something natural about hitting that big round button on the iPhone. I can use the phone in the dark. My three year old can use it. The Droid has four “buttons” on the bottom that are just touch-screen buttons, nothing tactile to center you without looking or fumbling.

Facebook App – The facebook app on the iPhone is better than Facebook itself. The Facebook app on Android seems like an afterthought they threw at Zuckerberg’s 14 year old nephew to pull together in case this Android thing takes off.

Prowl and Boxcar – Boxcar is a great app that implements push notifications for Twitter and Facebook. Thankfully, Android apps can run in the background and can take care of their own notifications, and the twitter apps do notify on mentions, etc. I guess it’s just the Facebook notifications that I miss. Prowl will push Growl alerts from your desktop to your iPhone. It isn’t immediately obvious why that’s so great and you sort of need to figure this one out for yourself, so give it a try.

Ember – At my company, we LIVE in Basecamp and Campfire. Mostly Campfire. Ember is a kick-ass iPhone app for Campfire. No such app exists on Android yet. WHAT???

Audio books – Audible doesn’t support Android yet. boo.

Kindle – Amazon hasn’t build an Android Kindle app yet. boo.

Tweetie – There are plenty of Twitter apps on Android, but nothing comes close to Tweetie. I heart Tweetie.

the iPhone itself – when I go back to using the iPhone, especially after using something else for a few days, it is just so usable. The form factor, the buttons, the software interface, all of it. Amazing.

Now before you get all over my shit for comparing the iPhone and the Droid, let me say that there are at least ten things that I’d miss in the other direction. Much more significant and important things. But that’s for another post.

Have you switched from iPhone to Droid? What do you miss?

Post from: Jangro.com

Top Ten Things I Miss From the iPhone

Brent writes…

How do I replace the color wheel in my samsung hls5086?

There are a few different models of the HLS5086:

• HLS5086W
• HLS5086WX
• HLS5086WX/XAA
• HLS5086WXXAC

The bp96-01579a color wheel does appear to be the correct model number for your set, and while I don’t have specific instructions, based on comments, at least one person has successfully done it following the instructions here: Samsung Color Wheel.

If I were you, I’d arm myself with those instructions, a digital camera, and some masking tape and a pen (to label wires) and start taking the set apart. Follow the light path from the lamp to locate the color wheel and from there you can work on freeing the bad one.

Reverse the steps to install the new one and you’ll be on your way.

Did you do this?

Let me know how it went, and if you document the process for your specific television model and provide it to me with pictures, there’s a $50 Amazon gift-card waiting for you if I publish it here on Jangro.com.

Post from: Jangro.com

Color Wheel in Samsung HLS5086

Several people have asked me about the camera and video quality on the droid phone.

I haven’t done that much with either, but we did manage an impromtu video session last night.

Here’s my three year old son Alex who appears to be doing Gilly (from SNL) doing Riverdance. I don’t know why he decided to dance, but hey, that’s what kids do.

Is it better than the iPhone 3GS? I think maybe not. I need to do some more testing, but I feel like the quality has been better on the iPhone videos I’ve taken of my kids. Granted, maybe some quality got lost in the upload to YouTube. And the light was pretty bad.

The camera app does have a share feature that allows me to send the video directly to YouTube very easily.

Large videos require a WiFi connection, but the phone will wait patiently for a connection and upload it when it gets one.

The jury is out. I think a side-by-side test is in order.

Don’t tell Alex.

Post from: Jangro.com

First Droid Video. My Kids are Going to Kill Me…

Stephanie writes…

The TV will not turn on. Appears that there is no power to the TV at all. Checked all connections including wall outlet to ensure that everything is plugged in and working.

There’s nothing more frustrating than nothing happening when you turn on a device!

My first question is, when did this start happening?

Was it all of a sudden, or have there been other things going wrong like a slow startup?

Did it turn off while you were watching it?

Was there some event like a thunderstorm or a power outage?

Here’s what I would start with…

• Test the outlet. Plug something else in there to make sure there’s nothing wrong.
  Is the TV plugged into a powerstrip or a cable box? If so, get those out of the mix and plug the TV directly into the wall.
• Unplug the set for a long time and try again.
• Verify that there is truly no life. Listen and watch closely at the back of the set when you turn it on. Do you get any clicks, fans, or flickers of light?

Still nothing? Unfortunately, at this point to figure out exactly what’s wrong you probably need a technician who has the test equipment necessary to see what’s going wrong.

Since this is a CRT television, it is not something that is easily serviced your self. Further, it would probably be prohibitively expensive to get it repaired.

Probably not what you want to hear, but it is probably time to look into some nice 30″+ LCD Televisions.

Post from: Jangro.com

Samsung TX T2782 Problems