“For decades, Japan simply imported the wares of foreign cultures, but recession has led to invention. The country has begun creating the finest American denim, French cuisine and Italian espresso in the world. Now is the time to visit.” (WSJ)

“Facebook plans to file the prospectus for its initial public offering on Wednesday, according to people briefed on the matter, finally kicking off one of the most anticipated stock sales of the social networking era.” (New York Times)

“Alberta Ferretti is next up in Macy’s designer series for the store’s Impulse contemporary department.” (WWD)

“GQ is not the only media operation to embrace a more overt commercial role. More and more publications have been trying to establish ecommerce operations in an effort to extend their brands beyond the printed page, and find new sources of revenue in a tough advertising market.” (FT)

“The US was shut out of today’s launch of the Versace for H&M cruise collection–it was only available online and H&M doesn’t have e-commerce here yet–but that doesn’t mean we’re not interested in how it all played out (or that we can’t shop it on eBay). And as has become the norm with these fast-fashion collaborations, there was drama.” (Fashionista)

“Swatch Group’s decision to lower watch part supplies to rival watchmakers this year has already impacted the industry, forcing some brands to hold back production and others to scramble for alternatives.” (Reuters)

“According to a recent report by The Boston Consulting Group (BCG), China is set to become the world’s next e-commerce superpower, surpassing the United States to become the largest online commerce market in the world, with an estimated market size of $300 billion.” (Business of Fashion)

“Just as the men’s runway collections came to a close in Milan on Tuesday, organizers of the shows in New York and London announced that they have settled, for now, a dispute over the dates of the women’s runway shows planned this September.” (New York Times)

“Despite the latest signs of continued economic turmoil in Europe, men’s wear designers are not shying away from luxury fabrics for fall.” (New York Times)

“Alexander McQueen is introducing a made-to-order line with Huntsman of London’s Savile Row. And that news, along with the upscale clothes displayed in the brand’s Milan showroom, confirm that the tilt in men’s wear is toward the formal and the evening.” (New York Times)

“With sustainability still not incorporated within the core strategy of most fashion retailers, change must happen.” (The Guardian)

“At the 69th annual Golden Globe Awards in Los Angeles, quite a few actresses had hems spilling wildly behind them.” (New York Times)

“L’Oréal USA, the New York-based subsidiary of L’Oréal S.A., a worldwide company in the cosmetics industry, signs a five-year master agreement with PFSweb, Inc., to develop and manage multiple end-to-end e-commerce solutions for some of L’Oréal’s most prestigious brands.” (L’Oreal)

“For the last 15 years, Mr. Brûlé, an Estonian-Canadian who keeps his perma-stubble artfully cropped like Tom Ford’s, has gone outside the publishing establishment and started two culture magazines regarded as bibles in certain design-savvy circles: Wallpaper and Monocle. And he did so while upending notions of what a media company does.” (New York Times)

“The publishing world is all about what’s new and what’s next, so 2012 should be right up its alley.” (WWD)

“Getting rich requires serving a mass market, which means the rest of us can buy what the rich buy.” (WSJ)

“Sweden’s booming economy and fashion-hungry population are enticing more and more international brands to open stores in Stockholm, as foreign investment continues to drive the Swedish retail market.” (Swedish Wire)

While any museum would be hard-pressed to recreate the magic that was “Savage Beauty,” more fashion exhibits are popping up all over the world and several big ones are already on track to debut next year.” (Fashionista)

Alchimie Forever
Alchimie Forever has recently redesigned the packaging for its highly effective men’s skincare products. The products are formulated to address male-specific concerns such as shaving irritation and ingrown hairs as well as anti-aging. We are particularly impressed with the Tightening Eye Contour Gel. Eliminating breakable jars for travel convenience, the products have also been packaged in easy to use squeeze tubes. With the brand’s highest standards of quality and efficacy, Alchimie Forever Men receives our highest ratings. For more information about these and other Alchimie Forever products, log onto the website.

Dirty by Lush
Experiential beauty pioneer Lush has now created the Dirty range. This rather straightforward collection of, shall we say, male-centric products was designed as a simple, minimal regime for anyone with an extremely active lifestyle. Each product has its own refreshing and invigorating notes which layer beautifully together. Lush’s Dirty series receives our highest ratings for practicality and experience. Log onto the website for more information.

Evolution Man
One of the newest brands on our radar here at Beauty Guru is Evolution Man. With a highly male-specific philosophy, Evolution Man has tapped into the truly contemporary male aesthetic of beauty. Not only does the brand feature make-up in the form of Conceal (a tinted cream that blends effortlessly to a seamless, undetectable finish), Evolution Man has also recently introduced a delightful yet masculine series of Nail Paints. While maintaining an eco-green brand philosophy and utilizing cutting edge technology with scientifically proven ingredients, Evolution Man receives our top marks for innovation and brand image. For more information about Evolution Man’s selection of products, log onto the website.

J. Paul
Truly the most masculine of the product lines we are featuring, J. Paul simplifies the processes of male grooming. Primarily focused on shaving, each of the products are multi-functional and, as previously mentioned, masculine in every sense of the word. Simple, effective and extremely practical, J. Paul receives our top ratings. For more information about J. Paul products as well as great tips on how to use them, log onto the brand website.

Kyoku
Already mentioned in previous posts, Kyoku is one of the most effective and extensive ranges of grooming products formulated to address the specific needs of men’s skin. The brand continues to evolve and offer new and exciting products such as the new Wind body series, which is part of the brand’s collection of atmospheric scented body products. We love so many products on the range overall, but top favorites include the Pore Reducing Serum and the Facial Moisturizer with SPF 15. To learn more about Kyoku, go to the brand’s website.

Skin Authority Man
Skin Authority is also new on our radar, but is growing quickly. The company produces a complete and rather extensive collection of skincare products. Combining the best of nature and science, the brand recently introduced Skin Authority Man, a daily regimen of anti-aging products that address the unique and often challenging needs of men. The line includes some of the most effective products we have come across and is ideal for active men. Skin Authority Man receives our highest ratings for innovation and efficacy, and we particularly love the Age Defying Hydrating Sunscreen with SPF 30. Check out the brand website for more products and information.

The e-shop will offer handbags, belts, millinery, sunglasses, scarves and jewelry from an eclectic mix of international designers, some of which are currently represented by the agency. Painter-turned-jewelry designer Alyssa Norton, for instance, gained notoriety after collaborating with Narcisco Rodriguez and is known for combining indigenous techniques with vintage stones. Her vintage diamante and braided silk bracelet features multi-colored braided silk thread with matching tassels and a woven white diamante fringe. Like Norton, Maryam Keyhani was also a painter before transitioning into jewelry. The self-taught designer creates bold statement pieces that combine dense metal chains with delicate feather and leather accents.Meanwhile, Israeli designer Smadar-Pola Azriel of Paula Bianco designs unique accessories as well as jewelry. Her delicate gauze and lace foulards are an LA favorite and her chunky cuffs and necklaces combine traditional techniques with a personalized playful aesthetic. All of these designers will be offering exclusive pieces through the new e-commerce store.

Demure’s distinguished social circle has already pledged support for the new platform. Her mix of shop owners, gallery owners, DJs, and chefs will model looks in a street style motif. “They are people we meet for work and pleasure, and they work in different fields,” Demure says, “they inspire us, they are not models, they are not wannabes, they are interesting and they are who they are and we love/like them for who they are.”

Guest designers will also make their debut each season with fresh collections. Carefully selected, the guests are “real people who surround us—friends, collaborators—they have a talent.” To start, we can anticipate pieces from the avant-garde Heaven Tanudiredja, conceptual design team Ek Thongprasert and the self-taught porcelain artist Patrick Moulin. The Valery Demure E-shop launches in September and will be available internationally.

Louis Mariette
Louise Mariette was a party and wedding planner, before transitioning into millinery in 2002. His first collection, presented in Milan, received high praise. It also captured the attention of Harrods, which later commissioned the ‘Chapeau d’Amour’, a £1.5 million hat made of platinum and diamonds for the posh department store’s revamped millinery department. The Malawi-born designer has since collaborated with Manish Arora, Qasimi and Nichole de Carle, and has a strong celebrity following that includes Kate Moss, Lady Gaga and Erin O’Connor, to name a few. Mariette’s fantastical headpieces defy heights with elegance and glamour, and draw inspiration from his travels as a child between Africa and London.

Marie Mercie
Like Mariette, Marie Mercie’s collections are based on her childhood, growing up in the forests of Fontainebleau, France. The former artist and writer is also a veteran of the industry. Mercie’s success lies in the novelty of her playful designs, which are rooted in nature. Since opening her Parisian boutique, she has received fashion kudos for her blithe creations. Mercie revels in all things whimsical—from leopard print kitty ears to a hedgehog cap fitted with felt nose, eyes and lashes—which suits her most sophisticated fans, including Milla Jovovich and Kristin Scott Thomas.

Emma Yeo
Award-winning designer Emma Yeo discovered an interest in millinery midway through an MA Design Jewellery course at Central Saint Martins. With training in multimedia textiles, she made the leap into headwear upon graduation. The young designer is transforming traditional millinery with fresh techniques such as her innovative Lasercut woods, a frenzy of intertwining molded lines covered in rich velvets and metallic. Her recent collaboration with London based designer Corrie Nielsen, titled “Solitary Motion,” explores new combinations, morphed leather and blacked dyed pheasant feathers with signature dynamic silhouettes.

Bernstock Speirs
British label Bernstock Speirs, designed by Paul Bernstock and Thelma Speirs, was born out of the ‘80s underground club and music scene in England. Inspired by youthful rebellion, the duo designed men’s and women’s hats that defied conservative norms. Since then, they’ve maintained a fashion-forward spirit through collaborations with Peter Jensen and Richard Nicoll as well as a shop in trendy Shoreditch. Their recent collection features amusing styles like their signature Bunny Cap, a cotton baseball cap with canvas bunny ears and bow, and trilby hat made of twisted paper straw with contrasting brims.

Beauty Blender
Creating the perfect canvas begins with the perfect tool. The Beautyblender is by far the best selection for fashioning a flawless complexion, regardless of your choice for foundation. Used damp, the unique, egg-shaped design (patent-pending) imparts a hydrated, foolproof and long-wearing application, while the dense material won’t absorb make-up the way that ordinary cosmetic sponges do. An indispensable wonder, the amazing Beautyblender receives our highest ratings for design, innovation and overall function. For more information about Beautyblender and other Blender products, including the new Beautyblender Pure, log onto the website.

Chanel Vitalumière Aqua Compact
In the luxury brand category, Chanel continues to deliver superior formulations. And the brand’s latest release, Vitalumière Aqua Compact, is truly outstanding. Combining the luminescent properties of a liquid foundation with the ease and overall convenience of a compact, this ultra-light, water-based formula blends effortlessly to a sheer, flawless finish while providing comfortable all-day wear as well as SPF 15. It’s an ideal formula for warmer temperatures. For more information about Vitalumière Aqua Compact or any of Chanel’s other incredible products, log onto the website.

Erno Laszlo
Jaqueline Kennedy-Onassis and the Duchess of York were among the Erno Laszlo devotees that helped elevate the brand to commercial status in the early 1960’s. Today, Laszlo’s presence in the industry is indeed iconic. Our top foundation selections are the Absolute Finish SPF 15 Air-whipped mousse foundation as well as the regular Normalizer Shake-it, an amazing all-in-one product that minimizes excess shine while providing a sheer coverage. For other products and information, log onto the brand website.

Hourglass
Hourglass Cosmetics produces some of the most impressive, highly effective foundation and skin enhancing formulations. Hourglass was established in 2004 and utilizes cutting-edge formulations with the finest ingredients. Since launching, the brand has successfully cultivated a savvy following that includes top industry professionals among legions of in-the-know devotees. The top performing products include the Veil Mineral Primer, a superb primer and absolute must-have item for anyone’s make-up bag, as well as the Immaculate Liquid Powder Foundation and our top favorite, the Illusion Tinted Moisturizer. For more information about Hourglass and its full range of amazing products, check out the brand website.

Jane Iredale
If minerals are your choice of foundation, then no other brand is as superior as Jane Iredale. The brand offers the best mineral formulation and selection of shades available, none of which have the unpleasant ashy-grey pallor that most mineral products can impart. Ideal for sun exposure, great for the body and virtually weightless on the skin, Jane Iredale Mineral Cosmetics receive our highest ratings. Check out the website for more information.

Kevyn Aucoin
If flawless, longwearing, full-coverage is what you want, look no further than Kevyn Aucoin. The brand’s namesake master created incredible formulas for a signature flawless finish that remains evident throughout the range. From the incredible Sensual Skin Enhancer concealer, which provides maximum coverage, to the amazing Liquid Airbrush foundation, The Sculpting Powder and The Celestial Veil Candlelight Powder, the legend of one of the industry’s top innovators lives on. For more information, log onto the website.

Koh Gen Do
Newest on our radar screen is Koh Gen Do. Originally developed in Japan, the brand employs a ritualistic skincare approach to beauty and has developed some of the most nurturing cosmetics available on the market. The formulations are each superb and ideal for anyone with sensitive skin. Our favorites include the Moisture Foundation, Aqua Foundation and Maifanshi Face Powder. For more information about the full range of products from Koh Gen Do, log onto the website.

Make Up Forever
Another favorite artistry label at Beauty Guru is Make Up Forever. Although the brand offers a fairly extensive range of incredible foundation formulas, our all-time favorite product is the Face and Body foundation. The ultra-light gel texture melts into the skin, can be used to even out legs, décolletage, etc and is therefore the ideal formula for outdoor photographs, etc. Also worth checking out are the HD Primer, HD Concealer and HD Foundation and our favorite for highlighting, Uplight Luminizer Gel. For more products and information, log onto the website.

Nars Tinted Moisturizer
Truly one of our most featured brands at Beauty Guru is Nars Cosmetics. The most recent addition to the brand’s already stellar roster of foundation formulas is the Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer. Perfect for the bare minimalist, this amazing formula provides a sheer veil of coverage as well as protection from the damaging rays of the sun. Weightless with soothing skin-enhancing ingredients, this product is certainly a multi-tasker that delivers optimal results and receives our highest ratings. Log onto the website for more information.

Zuzunaga manifests urban living into every collection, drawing inspiration from modern architecture and culture. His recent curtain collaboration with Danish textile company Kvadrat was a testament to this creativity and vision. The unique collection featured overlapping shapes in prints and weaves that revealed skylines and cityscapes at a distance.

More recently, Zuzunaga expanded his scarves collection to include snoods and shoes. Inspired by the concept of transformation, the Alchemy collection boasts rich textiles derived from photographs of urban landscapes. For the Bitmap series, Zuzunaga compressed prints into arrays of square bits which were then transformed into pale pink and royal blue knit snoods, black-and-white espadrilles and 100% Modal scarves with self fringed hems. The complementing Pixel series features landscape images broken down to reveal hundreds of hidden colourful pixels, resulting in the chromatic square patterns on the Giant Flow scarf made of 100% silk chiffon.

Zuzunaga’s infectious ethos and love for intense hues is a recipe for design success. We look forward to forthcoming collections and collaborations from the London and Barcelona-based designer.

Chandler Burr – The Perfect Scent
Although there have been many books written about perfumery, none have exposed what really occurs behind the scenes of the multi-billion dollar industry. New York Times writer Chandler Burr reveals the incredible process of creating and ultimately marketing a fragrance from beginning to end. The book provides in-depth profiles of prestige luxury-goods producers, Hermes’ first official head-perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena and uber-celebrity Sarah Jessica Parker’s journey to the launch and development of “Lovely” with top fragrance manufacturer Coty. The Perfect Scent is a truly fascinating read and receives our highest ratings.

Creed
We’ve written about Creed in previous posts for its standards of excellence and quality. Established in 1760, it is France’s most renowned perfume dynasty and continues to use techniques created by the family’s founding perfumer James Henry Creed. Royalty and famous celebrities throughout the world have favored the brand’s signature scents for centuries. Each perfume is covetable in its own way, casting a distinct allure of refinement, sophistication and timeless elegance. Having produced some of the most legendary fragrances ever known, the brand continues to thrive today under the direction of the family’s sixth generation perfumer, Olivier Henry Creed. For more information about Creed or to find the nearest retailer or location for one of the brand’s amazing flagship boutiques, log onto the website.

Illuminum
Along with her custom-made Alexander McQueen wedding gown and royal crown jewels, Catherine Duchess of Cambridge chose Illuminum’s White Gardenia Petals as her wedding day perfume. The once little known brand instantly became known internationally and his since attracted a major following. The brand offers a unique, contemporary and rather experiential approach to fragrance, with a variety of beautiful scents, including Perfume and Haute Perfume series that can be layered or worn alone as well as scented candles and a very clever room “aromarizer.” Illuminum receives our highest ratings for innovation and design.

Taken by Jane Booke
Los Angeles-based designer Jane Booke was exposed to a world of travel and culture from an early age and developed a true passion for art and fantasy. Her passion has led to Booke’s most recent endeavor, a perfume called Taken. This captivating, sensual fragrance has soft, fruity top notes of mango, peach and bergamot but is grounded with deep vanilla notes. Available in spray or roll-on as well as a fragranced candle, Taken is one of our favorite new scents! Log onto the website for more information.

Wode by Boudicca
Recognized for exquisite tailoring, expert craftsmanship and highly conceptual art/fashion installations, London-based fashion label Boudicca has also created Wode, one of the most sensory-stimulating perfumes. Unconventionally packaged in a spray paint can, Wode comes out as a vibrant cobalt blue mist that appears wherever the scent has been sprayed. The color gradually disappears, but it leaves behind a delightfully intoxicating scent of herbal and spicy notes. Boudicca’s Wode is both a sensual and a visual experience, and it receives our highest ratings for design and innovation. For more information or to view the amazing video for Wode, log onto the website.

With origins rooted in Persian and Indian cultures, paisley exudes both classic and cultural appeal. And from JW Anderson to Stella McCartney, it’s one of s/s ‘12’s most desired prints. Accessories like Haider Ackermann’s Clash Belt in gold and magenta silk paisley and Jil Sander’s white poplin pouch, featuring neon-pink, green and navy droplet swirls, are easy to wear nods to the trend. For something bolder, opt for A.P.C.’s belted cotton dress in red and earthy undertones or Etro’s corked platform wedge, which aced this season’s trend with its blue suede paisley pattern appliqué.

Inspired by Baz Luhrmann’s upcoming Great Gatsby re-make, some designers were also moved by designs from the roaring ‘20s. The Art Deco movement featured prominently in s/s ’12, as seen in Lulu Frost’s gold drop earrings with inverted triangular silver-plated brass crusted with diamante as well as Etro’s pleated crepe skirt in a modern eye-popping Art Deco print. Swept up in period glamour, labels also produced creative and opulent accessories like Christian Louboutin’s ‘Artemis’ shoulder bag with extravagant gold textured-leather strap and blood velvet lining as well as Charlotte Olympia’s handmade black satin and clear plastic ‘Origami’ pumps with dainty ankle straps.

And while fringe and sequins are popular, this season’s metallic trend offers a more tempered approach to glamour with silver and gold accents. Illesteva’s unisex Beca sunglasses in gold are a great starting point, while Nicholas Kirkwood’s Lace Derby shoes made of blue suede overlaid with gold lace are the perfect balance of metal and lace. To fully capture the trend, go for Margiela’s lace-up high tops in metal gold leather or Christopher Kane’s pleated silk jacquard mini skirt from his acclaimed runway collection.

Born in Ireland and based in London, O’Grady fuses mechanical shapes with Swarovski crystals, a combination that has proven successful since her s/s ‘10 debut. Originally a trained fashion designer, O’Grady’s naturally creative eye made her migration into accessories an organic transition. She even counts an architectural salvage yard as the catalyst for launching her own jewelry range.

Initially, O’Grady created designs heavily based in Perspex, geometric shapes with honeycomb perforations in black, white and transparent. Since then, she’s evolved into working more with metals and Swarovski crystal, as seen in her more recent s/s ‘12 collection, titled “Mecanismo.” Influenced by Mesoamerican designs, particularly Aztecan “Taxco” styles, O’Grady’s Talon collection fastens claw shaped pendants onto wide cuffs and dense chains. Each pendant is hollowed out and replenished with rounded turquoise or pale pink crystal. Other collections feature more bold pieces, such as her Templo necklace made in light oxidized brass. A rather grand crescent moon pendant, fastened with triangular studded brass and blue Swarovski crystals, hangs like a showpiece off a woven brass chain.

O’Grady’s collections are also recognized for incorporating industrial elements into designs, a recurring theme throughout each season—for s/s ’12, it’s “Machine Age” Deco. But O’Grady is quick to add: “I wanted to follow on with the tribal style too.” Inspired by streamline buildings and cars, the pieces beautifully integrate raw components with luxury fixtures. The Shell Stud range blends mechanical-like washers into Mexican necklaces, while the Streamline collection has a more architectural feel. Favorites include the Delahaye range with silver and gold brass hinges topped with princess cut jewels.

O’Grady’s dedication and unique style have led to praise and growing popularity within the UK. This month, the Merle O’Grady collections will also be available in the US at Urban Outfitters.

The ever-present minimalist beauty look was punctuated in many cases by a graphic eye, bold lip color or strong brows (from full and completely unsculpted to boyish and geometric shapes). Our favorite examples of the season were Pat McGrath’s graphic cat-eye and bare face at Lanvin and Peter Philip’s bejeweled eyebrow strips with soft facial contouring at Chanel. As previously mentioned, matte lips were the major statement acorss many collections, of which our top selections include Rick Owens, YSL and Gregory Parkinson’s deep plum lips in New York (designed by yours truly).

Hairstylists also took a far more diverse approach than in previous seasons. Texture varied from very dry to very wet, while styles ranged from wearable, classics to a refreshing multitude of updated, youthful looks. From center or side partings in somewhat slept-in looks to more sleek versions, often accented with vibrant or contrasting color, hair became an added statement of youthful experimentation. Wet looking or slicked back styles were a significant trend as well. Standout looks of the season were Rodney Cutler’s textured curls at Gregory Parkinson in New York and Guido Palau’s severe center parting with contrasting dark or colored roots at Jean Paul Gaultier as well as his youthful, severely side parted textured hair with side-swept bangs for Celine.

In the absence of Galliano, Bill Gaytten’s collection for Christian Dior was filled with petite, belted, houndstooth jackets that gave a prominent flair at the hip for a more rounded silhouette. At Giambattista Valli, a belted, heavy knit black-and-white jumper with a thick hem gave off the effect of a peplum skirt, while sheer graphic panels combined with thick furry pleats enhanced curves elsewhere. Similarly, Guillaume Henry added a bit of structured piping to skirts and dresses for Carven, and Julien David’s sporty collection featured bustling wool skirts that exaggerated hips with equal measure.

Drawing further attention to voluptuous lines, the peplum skirt was popularly featured in several shows. After a celebratory bash marking Alber Elbaz’s 10th year at Lanvin, the show introduced a parade of jewel tone body-con frocks with ruffled collars and peplum skirts. Riccardo Tisci’s menacing aesthetic was intact at Givenchy, where he presented another dark collection inspired by both French photographer Guy Bourdin and equestrianism. Amid the sharply tailored riding jackets, Tisci featured black leather pleated skirts with blood red peplum appliqués and Jodhpur pants with flared hips and thighs.

By contrast, Roland Mouret presented a softer collection with cream and pale yellow A-line skirts as well as dresses with matching overskirts. Elsewhere, Nicola Formachetti’s mesmerizing collection for Thierry Mugler showcased creative interpretations of the peplum: delicate strands of silk fringe embraced folding asymmetric ruffles on body-hugging pristine white skirts.

Damir Doma’s “Modern Renaissance” collection featured rich brick orange and black suede skirts with creative leather stitch details and curving hemlines. Sharon Wauchob’s romantic presentation evoked ‘20s flapper flair (a continuing trend from s/s ’12) with dropped waistlines and long pleated skirts in printed silk chiffons, while Limi Feu amplified a wide mid-calf skirt with delicate crochet overlay. Elsewhere, Barbara Bui combined eastern and western influences, mixing fluid long skirts reminiscent of ‘70s glamour with quilted patchwork shearling coats.

And perhaps in anticipation of bitter climates, designers chose floor-sweeping lines for dramatic effects. Marcel Marongiu’s dark collection for Guy Laroche displayed interesting textured combinations such as a black sheer leathery blouse with plunging opaque paired with tailored, asymmetric, Asian-inspired jackets. Rick Owens presented a similarly dark collection, but favored softer silhouettes to create simple long frocks in textured fabrics with floor-length coats. And although long skirts tend to be all-enveloping, designers Ann Demeulemeester and Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing added daring slits to figure-hugging shapes.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s blooming No.21 collection played up textures to great effect, mixing rough gray tweeds with soft silks and sequin skirts. Fendi took a similarly textural approach with sophisticated contrasting combinations, such as textured wool knits, silk pleats and treated skins in earthy browns and black. MaxMara showcased a series of military-like jumpsuits and masculine, long coats inspired by Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s Querelle, while Moschino presented quilted leather jackets and black-and-white check print separates. Prada’s dramatic show echoed that of it menswear collection: heavily jeweled coats and dizzying prints, high waistlines with elongated pins and skirts that stopped swiftly at the ankles.

Despite the typically somber palette associated with autumn/winter, some designers took a sunnier approach to the season. Dsquared’s Dean and Dan Caten turned out pastel jumpers topped with diamante brooches and brightly colored lame jackets and skirts. Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni presented a chirpy collection reminiscent of the swinging ‘60s, which featured coats with prominent collars and belt buckles, large hip pockets and block color shift dresses in sky blue, canary red and pale peach.

Elsewhere, designers focused on silhouettes to deliver new shapes for the female form. At Gianfranco Ferre, Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi’s asymmetric evening frocks featured structured bodices and draping bias-cut skirts. Elsewhere, Giorgio Armani opened his “Easy Chic” collection with a series of gray tailored suits with pleated ankle-length trousers, while Trussardi’s Umit Brenan paired simple knit jumpers and skinny leather belts with Latin-inspired suits. And at Missoni, natural references made their way into cashmere knits bearing grainy textures wrapped tightly around busts and thin shoulders, while pencil skirts made of amber colored hides accentuated hips and waists.

Many designers also stayed true to Italian form by delivering grandiose, luxurious collections. Highlights included Roberto Cavalli’s shoulder-less heavily beaded mini frocks and head-to-toe animal inspired combinations as well as Dolce & Gabbana’s inspiring collection, which was rich in Sicilian tradition. Audiences applauded the duo’s romantic, lingerie-esque tulle and lace ensembles as well as the series of midnight black capes steeped in gold embroidery and gold silk brocade.