The Jewelry Brief

A Rose by Any Other Name…

The Briefer — Thu, 21 Jun 2012 14:34:05 +0000

Pomellato was the first jeweler to promote the philosophy of prêt-a-porter jewelry. Founded in 1967, in Milan, they began producing statement jewels that could be worn from day to evening. 40 years later, the company is still designing jewelry that is creative, true to their philosophy and impeccably crafted.

Known for their use of color both in metal and gemstones, their distinct bold style is internationally recognized. Pomellato has introduced a gorgeous new line, Tango, which is sure to join the ranks of iconic jewelry pieces. The Tango Bracelet in rose gold is designed with over sized rounded links with an integral clasp. The bracelet is as sensual as its eponymous dance.

The rose gold gives a feminine and exotic look to the Tango Bracelet. For centuries pure gold has been alloyed with other metals for durability in jewelry. Those alloys are also selected for optimum beauty. Copper, when alloyed with pure gold, produces a stunningly beautiful and soft pink color gold, which is one of today’s hottest trends.

Like Pomellato’s iconic Nudo Collection creativity is manifest in the simple design through meticulous execution of the jewelry. As the ad for the Tango Braclet simply states, “You need nothing else to be elegant and unforgettable”.

Style Setter: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Kara Ross

The Briefer — Mon, 07 May 2012 15:17:31 +0000

Kara Ross is becoming a household name, in fashionable households that is. Owner and designer of the eponymous company, Kara has taken her company from designing custom pieces for private clients to an internationally recognized brand. The bold jewelry and handbag designs are replete with color: gemstones, original design skins and resins. The pieces are designed to be layered, to mix and match, so customers become collectors.

Trained as a Gemologist, Kara’s initial pieces were based on her skills for selecting the finest colored stones and diamonds. This skill transitioned flawlessly in 2007 to a new fashion jewelry line. Kara by Kara Ross was born from a collection made for a fashion show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The gold plated brass jewelry made for the runway was an unexpected smash hit. In the years that followed, Kara’s new line proved to be ahead of its time, economically speaking. Kara is quick to point out that she really enjoys designing this line. The pieces are big, bold and simply fun to wear. Many of the skins she designs for her exclusive handbag collection are also incorporated into her fashion jewelry line.

Kara Ross’s award winning designs can be seen on the red carpet and on elegant women everywhere, including the White House. Last year Kara receive a very special commission to design bangle bracelets using wood from the White House lawn, which served as gifts to visiting heads of state. Kara’s vision and passion are a great combination for any entrepreneur, and are sure produce many fantastic lines to come.

JB: What is the main source of your design inspiration?

KR: I get ideas just by keeping my eyes open. I’m lucky in that I get to travel with work and with my family I am always inspired by the new places, people, customs, clothing, architecture that I see. I feel if you keep your eyes and heart open-there is always something that you are going to take notice of. It could even be a beautiful flower and the unexpected colors that live in it.
JB: You have three spectacular jewelry lines, at three separate price points. Do you create for different customers or do you have a fan base that stretches across all of your lines?

KR: I have three separate lines of jewelry: The Fine Jewelry, the Gemstone Collection and the Kara by Kara Ross “Boutique” line. The scale and production of each line is very different. The Kara by Kara Ross line is much more widely distributed. Retail prices range from $100-300.00. The Gemstone Collection is from $300-$5,000. The Fine Jewelry is too hard to price out with each piece being unique. The lower priced KARA collection is very fashionable and trendy. The Gemstone Collection is designed for those who want something to cherish for years to come.

JB: There is a great emphasis on color in all of your pieces. Explain how color fits into your creative process.

KR: Color is important because it makes a statement, it elevates your mood. I believe there is no wrong color – any color is right in right circumstances. It really is a joy to mix and experiment with different palettes.

JB: Who has had the greatest influence on your life/career?

KR: My parents and family have obviously had the most important impact. My mother used to take us to look at antiques and vintage pieces when I was younger. That started my love of vintage clothing. I actually wore beautiful vintage dress for prom in high school. My father is a surgeon but also a very talented painter. My brothers/sisters and I all have pieces he has done in our homes

In addition, I love architecture and art. I am a fan of Sir Norman Foster, Zaha Hadid, Rem Koolhaas, David Childs, Frank Gehry and Santiago Calatrava as well as Francis Bacon and Louise Bourgeois. My favorite jewelry designer is Suzanne Belperron. She was a great Parisian jeweler born in 1900s. She was known for her bold use of stones. I love the fact that she was a strong successful woman during a time when women were not a big part of the work force, private business owners or designers. She was a strong, creative, independent thinker.
JB: Your hand bag line is stunning. Do you have plans to expand into other areas of fashion?

KR: I love accessories and designing jewelry and handbags keeps me busy. I am always open to new ideas and collaborations.

JB: What are you working on right now?

KR: We just launched our Bridal Collection and Bespoke Collection Program when you can design your own version of Kara Ross signature handbags. I am very excited about these new developments!

Mother’s Day Gift Guide

The Briefer — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 14:49:42 +0000

Mother’s Day is just around the corner, and it’s time to turn your attention to that all-important gift. You know, the one that shows your mother just how much you appreciate her. A personalized gift is perfect for a new mom, veteran mom or a grandmother. These pieces are spot on trend but they are also timeless.

Would the mom you know like to wear a piece of jewelry worn by Gwyneth Paltrow or Michelle Williams? Luna & Stella is a great place to go for your hip and completely customizable gift. Contemporary pieces feature star and heart charms or adorable angel wings, add the children’s birthstones and your keepsake is complete. These pieces are sweet, subtly sentimental and very affordable.

If you’d like to tailor something totally to her taste, then Heather B. Moore has the range for you. This award winning artist and jewelry designer helps you tell your story through the jewelry. Choose from a diverse collection of charms and ID tags that can be personalized with any text you wish. Add significant dates, times or names and put together a selection that is as unique as your mom.

Alternatively, you could personalize her present with an initial pendant that is ready to ship. David Aubrey has created a colorful collection of beaded clusters monogram necklace that are colorful and fun to wear. They feature semi precious stones, beads and a single gold-plated initial, suspended from a delicate chain.

Whatever jewelry you choose, you can be certain that it will make your mother’s day.

Style Setter: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Joan Goodman of PONO

The Briefer — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 15:21:27 +0000

Bold, elegant and timeless designs with an emphasis on color and texture grab your attention whenever you see a PONO piece. Derived from the Hawaiian word for “goodness”, PONO is a fashion jewelry line launched by sisters Joan Goodman and Barbara Barnett in 2003. I was first introduced to the brand on Twitter. Their charismatic tweets enticed me to a tradeshow booth, where I was blow away by the impact of the collection.

The PONO line is composed of stunning statement necklaces, cuff bracelets and bangle bracelets. All of the jewelry is rendered in diverse materials such as horn, wood, metal, shell and beautiful Italian resins. These pieces are definite style setters, seen regularly on the pages of glossy magazines including Vogue and Ladies’ Home Journal. The PONO collection is beautiful but it is also lightweight and really fun to wear. The designs fit well, and they come in a variety of colors to express any mood. You can also feel good about wearing PONO because the company is committed to responsible manufacturing and business practices.

PONO jewelry is decidedly collectable, as demonstrated on television by their growing fan base like Christine Baranski, Erica Hill and Jessica Shaw. I was actually stopped recently, and asked if my necklace was PONO! Visibility and big names are not new to Joan and Barbara. They also own and operate a parent company, Bobbi Trim Ltd., one of Manhattan’s leading button companies, with a reputation for luxury, durability and originality. Some of their clients include Marc Jacobs and Nanette Lepore. Gorgeous designs that are colorful, wearable and collectible are everywhere!

JB: What is the main source of your design inspiration for PONO jewelry?

JG: The weather: the light, the clouds, the textures, the colors. Each day brings me new inspiration.

JB: There is a great emphasis on color in your pieces. Explain how color fits into your creative process.

JG: Color is the most important part of the creative process….it brings depth, dimension, richness and sophistication to the pieces.

Color is what attracts you to the jewelry. Nature plays a huge role in my color inspiration.

My brain is good a fine-tuning color and color combinations.

JB: Is there a secret to your contemporary yet timeless design style?

JG: No secret…it is just how I see things. I am basically classic in design and then I push the limits a little bit to make things more special.

JB: Buttons have always fascinated me; some of them are miniature works of art in their own right. Are you also involved in the button design? Do you tap different aspects of your creative spirit for the button company?

JG: I used to be very involved in button design. These days, so much of the button production is copied/produced in Asia that I don’t do too much of this kind of designing any more.

I try to keep the buttons new, interesting and fresh even though I am not designing them myself.

JB: What are you working on right now?

JG: I just finished up Fall/Winter ’12 and cannot wait to see the collection all together.

I am now working on Resort 2013.

Find a great selection of PONO fashion jewelry at April M.

The Jewelry of Suzanne Belperron

The Briefer — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 16:19:39 +0000

Parisian jewelry designer, Suzanne Belperron became an iconic figure in the male dominated jewelry industry of the early twentieth century. She is thought to be the first women to be known as a Master Jeweler. Belperron became an incredibly influential designer; being the first to mix precious and semi precious components in her pieces.

Born in 1900, Belperron studied at Ecole des Beaux Arts and began her career at the tender age of twenty-one at the Maison Boivin, working as a draughtswoman. She became tired of the restraints of Art Deco, with its geometric forms and rigid lines, and began to experiment with carved stones and organic shapes. Bernard Herz recognized her talent and enticed her to his company in 1932 by offering her complete artistic freedom. Whilst at B. Hertz, she began to draw her inspiration from exotic cultures and nature, producing curvaceous forms and gem set fruit and floral motifs. It wasn’t long before she attracted a sophisticated clientele. Amongst her fans were Diana Vreeland, Fred Astaire, Frank Sinatra and the Duchess of Windsor. When Elsa Schiapparelli appeared in Vogue magazine wearing jewelry by Belperron, it was confirmation of her creative and commercial success. Suzanne Belperron died in 1983.

Belperron never signed her jewels. When asked why she replied, “My style is my signature.” She also never opened a boutique, relying on word of mouth of her prestigious clients, whom she received by appointment. On May 14^th her private collection of jewelry will come up for auction at Sotheby’s, Geneva. An official illustrated biography of Belperron is also set to be published this year.

Charriol, Nordstrom and Paramount Team Up for a Titanic Giveaway

The Briefer — Thu, 22 Mar 2012 14:32:39 +0000

Charriol® USA, renowned for their stainless steel nautical cable jewelry, has partnered with Paramount Pictures and Nordstrom for a chance to win a private hometown screening of TITANIC in 3D! This is not your ordinary giveaway!

“We are very excited to be a part of this historic release of TITANIC in 3D,” says Charriol® USA Vice President Ori Zemer. “We always strive to give the Charriol® USA fans an opportunity to experience our motto, ‘The Art of Living the Difference’. By offering this exclusive gift with purchase and opportunity drawing, our fans will have the possibility to experience both the brand Charriol® USA and the film like never before.”

Opening in theaters on April 4, 2012, the re-release of TITANIC also coincides with the 100th anniversary of the Titanic setting sail on April 10, 1912. James Cameron, will bring TITANIC to life as audiences have never seen it before, digitally re-mastered and harnessing the innovative technology of StereoD.

Hurry! To commemorate the release of the film, Charriol® USA will offer an exciting gift with purchase opportunity exclusively at Nordstrom only during the month of March, 2012. With any Charriol® USA purchase made in March, 2012, via Nordstrom, customers will receive two free tickets to TITANIC in 3D. Additionally, Charriol® USA and Paramount Pictures will offer an opportunity drawing at 40 Nordstrom locations, in which the grand prize will have one winner experience TITANIC and the Charriol® USA luxury jewelry brandlike never before.

That’s Pinterest (ing)

The Briefer — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:21:38 +0000

In case you’re not yet in the know, there is a new craze sweeping the Internet called Pinterest. In their own words, Pinterest “lets you organize all the beautiful things you find on the web.” Each account consists of a set of virtual pin boards, arranged into categories of your choice, onto which you paste images. These boards can be accessed by anyone interested, and similarly you are able to browse those created by others. Hours can happily slide by as you pin your perfect décor, create details of an event or browse the boards of those that share your interests.

Designers were among the first to find a use for this new phenomenon and jewelry designers were no exception. What better way to convey the inspiration behind their collections, display their mood boards and throw in a little self promotion along the way, although this is openly discouraged. We follow the pins of designers Ruth Bridges and K0kkino. It’s like looking inside the design studios with the hopes to glean a little more behind what moves them.

We also love checking out the pin boards of our favorite stylists. We love the blog posts by Dree Harper of Create That Style, and checking out her pins feels like being in the editing room. Her jewelry pins are also very unique and unusual.

Shreve, Crump and Low is a must follow for jewelry lovers. Their pins range from the educational, to the go to pins for gift inspirations and who’s who in Boston! Jewelry in Art is also a favorite board, very clever!

Go on, give it a go…you know you want to, and while you are there check out www.pinterest.com/aprilmmiami

Bridal Jewelry: Trends and Traditions

The Briefer — Fri, 02 Mar 2012 16:57:23 +0000

A wedding is an occasion marked by milestone jewelry, but once the dress is selected it is time to have some fun picking the accessories! The Jewelry Brief picks for bridal jewelry 2012 go from the traditional to the latest trends.

The bridal cuff, love it! Jewelry designer Catherine Marche created this hand engraved cuff bracelet with the bride in mind. The lace-style engraving on this is stunning. How incredible would it be to have the lace pattern from your wedding dress engraved on a cuff to wear again and again? Very romantic!

Braunschweiger Jewelers in New Jersey report they are seeing brides wearing their engagement rings on their right hands and buying multiple, stackable bands for their left hands. Fantastic idea! Stackable bands can be so much fun. They are a great way to quickly dress up or dress down a look, incorporate a mixed metal look or even add colors with enamel or colored stones. Gemvara has an incredible stackable rings collection where a bride can create her own or choose from one of the seemingly endless options already on the site.

Diamond slice jewelry is something I first wrote about two years ago. I loved it then but wondered if it was passing trend or here to stay. I am happy to report it looks like it is staying. L’Dezen Jewellry is designing gorgeous diamond slice jewelry for brides. Chandelier earrings with delicate gold work incorporating diamond slices have a lacy quality to them. A sophisticated look any woman is sure to wear again and again.

Last, but certainly not least, pearls. They are a classic, can be found for any budget and we love them! For a more traditional feel a single strand of pearls may be best, a choker creates a vintage feel and multiple strands will add a bohemian touch. A simple pearl stud earring is always charming, but a 12-14mm pearl stud is a chic statement.

The possibilities are endless! If you design for brides or are a bride that wants to share ideas and pics, we would love to see them posted to www.facebook.com/jewelrybrief

Discover A Vintage Clothing Paradise: C. Madeleine’s

The Briefer — Mon, 13 Feb 2012 19:41:22 +0000

Minutes away from the world’s most beautiful beaches, tucked away in North Miami Beach, exists one of the fashion wonders of the world. C. Madeleine’s is home to the largest collections of vintage clothing, 10,000 square feet to be exact and not an inch of space is wasted. Once called Miami’s best kept secret by Vogue magazine, C. Madeleine’s now has a website taking this vintage treasure chest global.

Madeleine Kirsh’s original, smaller store was opened in 1998. The store was an instant success because of Madeleine’s vast knowledge of fashion and love of the unusual. Madeleine’s following has remained loyal; as she has remained committed to the quality and condition of the pieces she sells. The store is artfully arranged by decade each with its own accessory and jewelry sections. In addition, there is a fur salon, haute couture and a number of small, delightful vignettes. There is a definite “deer in the headlights of fashion” moment every time you walk in the front door.

The C. Madeleine’s website has the same layout as the store. It is gorgeous, crisp and user friendly. Each piece has several photographs, a well-written description and measurements. For the vintage fanatic, psychologically, maintaining focus on the website might be easier than visiting the store. The shop by designer, Chanel boutique and several other functions allow for ease in finding just what you are looking for, and individually each piece is stunning. That said, the sheer volume of beautiful things all in the same location with knowledgeable and super friendly staff to help you navigate the decades is not to be missed! The next time you are in Miami clear your schedule for a visit to C. Madeleine’s.

Pictures (hastily taken while shopping) of my visit to C. Madeleine’s can be seen at www.facebook.com/jewelrybrief

Why You Should (still) Know How to Read A GIA Certificate

The Briefer — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:39:26 +0000

Valentine’s Day is just around the corner! If you are planning to make a diamond purchase you will need to have an idea of what is important to you about your diamond. And you should have a budget. If you are lucky, the two will meet. Chances are that your jeweler will show you diamonds with Gemological Institute of America Diamond Grading Reports or Certificates. In the 1940s and 50s GIA developed its international Diamond Grading System. Today, this grading system is the industry standard for diamond commerce; and GIA has laboratories around the world that issue certificates by highly trained gemologists. A stone certified by the GIA should put you at ease when purchasing and aid if you ever want to sell or trade-in your diamond. The report will contain the four Cs of the diamond.

Carat weight is metric carats, 1.00ct equals .20grams.

Color begins with D and ends with Z, before “fancy” color grades begin. D is the grade given to a diamond that is colorless. Most diamonds set in jewelry fall in the nearly-colorless range (G-H-I and J). J is probably where the untrained eye will begin to see hints of yellow or brown in the diamond.

Clarity has six possible grades, four of them having further sub-divisions, which refer to the size, location and number of internal inclusions or external blemishes as seen by 10x magnification. Clarity should be thought of as a diamond’s fingerprint: internal inclusions help separate natural from lab created diamonds and can be used to identify the stone itself. The grades begin with Flawless (FL) for a diamond with no internal inclusions or external blemishes, next is Internally Flawless (IF). While many dream of owning a flawless diamond these stone are very rare. Continuing down the scale the grades are Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1-2), Very Slightly Included (VS1-2), Slightly Included (SI1-2) and Included (I1-2-3).

Cut, which describes the face up shape and style of facets the diamond has, is also shown in depth and table (the largest facet at the top of the stone) percentages for the stone. For round brilliant cut diamonds an actual Cut Grade is given. This is important to you as the consumer because this relates to the amount of light that a diamond returns to you: fire and scintillation (sparkle). You should judge diamonds in person; I urge you to compare diamonds and not just read reports. Your diamond should speak to you!

This subject is too vast for one brief! I encourage you to look at a report and send The Jewelry Brief any questions. Let us know if you are interested in learning in-depth about any of these subjects. Since the original publication date of this post in August of 2009, GIA has developed 4Cs applications for the iPad. The consumer version is available on iTunes.