Journal Live - Blog Central

Himalaya: Ama Dablam time-lapse photography

Sat, 26 May 2012 23:30:34 +0000

Here is a compilation of time-lapse photography taken during my Ama Dablam ascent at the end of last year:

Himalaya: Ascent of Yalung Ri (5,630m)

Mon, 26 Mar 2012 20:24:28 +0000

The culmination of my trek through the remote Rolwaling valley last year was this fulfilling climb of Yalung Ri with my climbing partner Liam. We were well acclimatised and climbed this snow peak in a day, offering wonderful views south across Nepal and the foothills of the Himalaya:

Himalaya: Ascent of Parchermo (6,273m)

Wed, 14 Mar 2012 08:21:26 +0000

As part of my adventures in the Himalaya late last year, I trekked through the remote Rolwaling Valley with a friend and enjoyed a fulfilling climb of Parchermo. Such a different experience to the busy and commercial Khumbu valley that hosts the Everest Base Camp trek.

My video of our Parchermo climb is below:

Himalaya: Ascent of Lobuche East

Sun, 04 Mar 2012 09:49:37 +0000

I've been back from Nepal for a couple of months now and am fully rested and recuperated from my adventures, the highlight being the ascent of Ama Dablam.

I've been editing my climbing videos since Christmas and will post them online, hopefully giving a flavour of what life is like in the Himalaya. This video is Lobuche East in the Khumbu valley near Everest...

Ama Dablam Despatch: #16 Summit Day

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 19:53:20 +0000

It was a much longer and harder day than we expected, we started from camp two so as to minimise the time we'd spend under the dangerous ice cliffs above camp three, however, most other groups are using camp three making a shorter summit day. I managed about 30 mins sleep due to the uncomfortable floor and nerves. We awoke at 1am and melted enough snow for a cup of tea and were ready to leave at 2am.

Ama Dablam: Summit!

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 07:36:05 +0000

Just after 10am Nepali time, we reached the summit of Ama Dablam 6,814m. It took about 8 hours and was very cold around dawn with a cutting wind. We've been blessed with fantastic views all around, Everest is clearer visible behind me in the photo. I'll post more once I down safely.

Ama Dablam Despatch: #15 Up to Camp Two

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 11:00:34 +0000

This is our summit eve, the despatch is coming from camp two at 6,000m on Ama Dablam. Today we climbed from camp one and we're now in a position to make an attempt on the summit tomorrow, assuming the weather doesn't change significantly overnight, there is currently a light breeze and the temperature just below freezing, although it will drop further when the sun sets.

Ama Dablam Despatch: #14 Up to Camp One

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 12:42:57 +0000

Having acclimatised over the last 3 weeks, we're now on our summit attempt.

We said our good byes to the base camp team and received their well wishes, then passed by the Buddhist stupa and prayer flags paying our regards and asking for safe passage on the mountain once more, then that was it, we set-off for camp one...

Ama Dablam Despatch: #13 Summit Push

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 13:54:46 +0000

The weather forecast is favourable, so we're off on our summit push, leaving for camp one tomorrow, camp two the day after and then leave for the summit that night. Wish us luck...

Ama Dablam Despatch: #12 Resting

Thu, 15 Dec 2011 12:34:05 +0000

We've been back down in base camp for two days now which has allowed for some interesting passtimes like secretly eating a whole block of Toblerone in my tent so none of the other expedition members knew, and also doing my washing!

Ama Dablam Despatch: #11 Camp Two

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 10:59:22 +0000

Today has been the most exciting day of the expedition so far, with exhilarating rock climbing between camp one and camp, the photos are quite spectacular.

Ama Dablam Despatch: #10 Camp one

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 10:59:20 +0000

We've made it to camp one (5,600m) on Ama Dablam and the climbing really feels like its begun. Camp one is situated on the shoulder of the south west ridge in an airy position with great views all around. There is a 1,000m drop on one side of the ridge down to base camp, and a 400m drop on the other side!

Ama Dablam Despatch: #9 Acclimatising

Sun, 11 Dec 2011 20:49:55 +0000

We have now started our second foray on to the mountain, with the intention of establishing two camps on the mountain and stocking them with food and gear, with the hope that the next 3 days will provide enough acclimatisation for our bodies to be ready for a summit attempt. Maybe another foray will be required to acclimatise prior to the summit bid, we have enough time.

Ama Dablam Despatch: #8 First load carry

Fri, 09 Dec 2011 20:43:36 +0000

After 3 nights at base camp we were all eager to get on with the business of climbing, after all, that's why we're here. We've had our leisurely trek to base camp, we've rested and acclimatised, we've had our Buddhist Puja ceremony to ask for safe passage on the mountain, it's time, let's climb.

So, our first day has been a simple beginning, but the climbing phase of the expedition is now underway. Today we carried our first load up to advanced base camp at 5, 350m. We'll make a number of forays on to the mountain for two key reasons:

Ama Dablam Despatch: #7 Puja Ceremony

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 20:19:15 +0000

The Sherpa people are very religious and somewhat superstitious, before setting foot on the mountain Sherpa climbers always conduct a Buddhist ceremony to pray and ask for safe passage from Buddha. It is a highlight of any Himalayan expedition. I try not to be superstitious, after all it's bad luck ;o) However, superstitious I am and you can't help but feel spiritual in the mountains, I have a standard lead up to most expeditions and always have my own private ceremony before leaving Northumberland by making some kind of pilgrimage to Holy Island. But now, standing at the foot of a Himalayan giant, a world away from the Northumbrian coast, it seems suitable to reaffirm your safe passage.