Traveling never gets old. At least for me. My decision to stay put in Manila instead of following the location independent nomads helped me keep the excitement for travel. That’s not to say I’m not itching to pack up and leave. I do want to experience living away from home, either in a province somewhere in the Philippines or overseas. I was all set with THE PLAN, when PHL360° happened.

PHL360° is this little project that has now blossomed into a huge project that I still have problems wrapping my head around. I was initially asked to be a part of the cast, but my aversion to video cameras got me a spot in the production team. Working behind the scenes is no less exciting than prancing before the lens. This is an experience that is completely new to me, and most of the time I have no idea what I’m doing. I love it.

It was just like when I was starting to travel and travel blogging. I’m learning as I go, meeting new people that inspire and challenge me. It’s exciting, this new venture. After six years, it’s getting hard to get excited about things.

Change is inevitable. Interests wane, directions change. Not to say that I’m leaving Just Wandering. I’ll still be here, pushing to meet my once a week posting quota. Since I won’t be traveling much in the next couple of months, I would hopefully have time to finally blog everything I haven’t. But I do hope you’d join me, the cast and the crew of PHL360°. It’s going to be one hell of a show.

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Japan is worth it. It’s very very expensive, yes, but it’s also a really really beautiful country to explore. To those who I haven’t scared off yet, here’s my Project Japan (507) file, which contains my itinerary, pre-trip budget (which I completely disregarded in the face of sushi), resources and other information. I hope it would help you in planning your dream trip to Japan

Copyright 2006-2011 Nina Fuentes | Justwandering.org | Let’s build the Blogger House with Habitat for Humanity!

Rail travel in Japan is very comfortable. All the trains are in great condition, and the seats have legroom airlines can only dream of. While it’s cheaper than flying domestic, it is more expensive than taking the bus. While the bus can save you money on fares and overnight buses can save you on accommodation costs, it eats up more time to travel the same distance. Besides, this is Japan we’re talking about! I can’t pass up the chance to ride the bullet train!

The beauty of the JR Pass is that it lets you ride the trains of the Japan Railways for free, as long as you have a valid pass. It’s valid on the shinkansen (except for Nozomi and Mizuho trains), express trains, and local lines. Though it’s not valid on private railways and subways, it can be used on the Osaka Loop Line and the Yamanote Loop Line in Tokyo.

To better illustrate how (relatively) cheap my 14-day rail pass is, here’s the list of all the trains I took in Japan and their corresponding fares, based on Hyperdia.com:

What do you think now? My Php 23,000 train ticket actually costs Php 56,304.86, which gives me a savings of Php 33,304.86!

A note about the fare as well: in long distance trains, you pay for the fare AND the seat. The seat cost depends on the class, and whether it’s a reserved seat or an unreserved seat. While most trains have cars with non-reserved seats, there are a handful of trains that only have reserved cars. Luckily, the Japan Rail Pass covers the cost of the seat and reservation fee already.

On the same vein, berths and cabins also have additional fees, so if you plan to riding sleeping trains, you’d have to research well because you might end up having to pay extra for your bunk. That’s why most of my train rides were during the day, and I was lucky to find a night train without any additional costs.

The Japan Rail Pass is available to foreigners traveling to Japan on a temporary visit visa, and Japan nationals who are residents in other countries. The pass is not available in Japan, so you’d have to buy it from an agent before you leave your home country. There are sites that offer this online, but in the Philippines, you can buy it from the Japan Airlines office (but only if you are flying with them), and travel agencies like Universal Holiday, Inc and Attic Tours. For more information about the JR Pass, visit their website at www.japanrailpass.net.

Now that more budget carriers are flying direct to Japan from Manila (including Jetstar), it’s cheaper than ever to go there. The biggest expenses in Japan are the transportation, accommodation and food. A ride in the subway costs a minimum of ¥200 (around Php 100), same with buses. But if you don’t mind walking, you can make most of Japan Rail’s network to get around for free if you’re holding a Japan Rail Pass. Accommodation costs can be driven down by staying in hostel dorms or even further down by Couchsurfing with a local host. As for the food, Japanese supermarkets and convenience stores offer bento boxes of real food, so you won’t have to live on instant ramen (unless you’re really strapped for cash). Onigiri (rice ball with filling or seasoning) starts at ¥68, bento at ¥350, depending on where you’re buying.

If you’re like me who have a weakness for shopping, you’ll go crazy in Japan. They have a lot of shops that offer the cutest things and brands that we don’t get in Manila. If you’re a toy collector, prepare to say goodbye to your money when you step inside Kiddyland, Mandarake or the Kotobukiya store. Toys and figures are for most part, cheaper in Japan. But for other things, it’s about the same or it’s more expensive.

The biggest savings I got for this trip was the Japan Rail Pass. Sure it cost me Php 23,000 for a 14-day pass, but considering that a one-way ride on the shinkansen starts around Php 3,000 and I rode 6 of them and a bunch of other trains, it really is worth the investment. Of course, that’s only applicable if you plan to move around a lot, like I did. If you plan on staying in just one city, best not to buy it. I’ll be posting about this in detail in a later post.

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Copyright 2006-2011 Nina Fuentes | Justwandering.org | Let’s build the Blogger House with Habitat for Humanity!

I am officially stamped out of Japan.

As I exited the Kansai airport train station, I glanced down at my JR Pass. Tomorrow’s the last day of its validity.

"I still have one day," I thought. I can still hop on another train or two, exploring as much of Japan as I can. I fought the urge and made my way to the international departure hall.

It’s been an amazing thirteen days. Japan was everything I expected it to be, and it was as lovely as I imagined. I can see myself coming back, maybe in a couple of years or so. I’d go back either in early May for spring in Hokkaido and Shirakawa-go, early April for Hanami in Kyoto, and anytime of the year for Tokyo.

Japan is a challenge for budget travelers. It’s not an exaggeration when people say it’s an expensive country to travel in. But the experiences and the quality you get, it’s worth the investment. I can see why people love coming back to Japan.

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I learned about these places from Ivan, who visited in 2011. I knew as soon as I saw his pictures that it should be added to my Japan itinerary.

Fast forward to 2012, after a long time in transit (16 hours, 5 trains), I found myself in Takayama. It’s a small city, very walkable. Just the way I like it. Ten minutes from the hostel are heritage houses, museums, shrines and temples.

Fifty minutes by bus sits Shirakawa-go, a Unesco World Heritage Site in the mountains of Gifu. Here, you’ll see gassho-zukuri farmhouses, some more than 250 years old.

Like in Takayama, it’s a pleasure to stroll through the small streets of Shirakawa-go, taking in the sights and savoring the peace and quiet. That is, until the next noisy pack of tourists pass by.

Copyright 2006-2011 Nina Fuentes | Justwandering.org | Let’s build the Blogger House with Habitat for Humanity!

I left Tokyo early yesterday morning to embark on what became a 12-hour journey to Japan’s northern island of Hokkaido.

Just as I was getting used to the cool climes of the Kanto region, I braced myself for even colder weather. While the southern half of Japan is already welcoming Spring, northern region seems to be still stuck on Winter.

Halfway through the 3-hour shinkansen ride to Aomori, the snow-capped mountains were replaced by snow-covered plains. The snow was blindingly white, and it thrilled me to see such a stunning view — it is the first time I’ve seen snow.

Snow, of course, mean cold weather. Very cold. I was wearing a tank top, a thermal long sleeved shirt, a hoodie and a thick coat and I was still shivering in my boots.

Luckily, I had the foresight to book a room at the Toyoko Inn that’s just down the road from the JR Sapporo train station. It’s a lot more expensive than the hostel I was eyeing, but the location proved invaluable as it can be really tough to walk outside when it’s snowing.

Then again, after reading my friend’s complaints about the sweltering heat of Manila, I suppose I shouldn’t be whining about the cold.

Copyright 2006-2011 Nina Fuentes | Justwandering.org | Let’s build the Blogger House with Habitat for Humanity!

Everyone has their must-do list in any place they visit. Those who have seen the movie would probably want to head to the Hachiko statue in Shibuya, while those into Japanese Fashion might head to Harakuju. My list only has one item: visit a cat cafe.

Actually, I ended up in a "cat’s house," basically a place where you can feed and pet cats (in cat cafes, you order food in a restaurant where there are cats). Since apartment spaces are often small and do not allow pets, places like these lets people interact with cats when they feel the urge to… pet.

For ¥600, you can stay as long as you like. Be sure to void your bladder before entering, because once you exit, you would have to pay for admission again.

Nekobukuro is on the 8th floor of the Tokyu Hands Building in Ikebukuro.

Copyright 2006-2011 Nina Fuentes | Justwandering.org | Let’s build the Blogger House with Habitat for Humanity!

We arrive in Tokyo today via the shinkansen (bullet train). Getting off at Tokyo Station, I immediately get a feel of just how fast everybody (and I guess everything) move in this city.

It’s rather overwhelming if you’re a first time visitor, and I am just grateful that my friends already know their way around so I just trot after them.

Exploring Tokyo means lots of walking and maybe a couple of pricey train, subway or bus ride. It also means practicing a lot of self-control because there are just too many things you’d be tempted to buy. Tokyo, have mercy on my wallet.

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Kyoto, Japan’s old capital, is a Unesco World Heritage city. All the guidebooks and travelers recommend stopping by the city when they’re in Japan.

Just three hours out of Tokyo via shinkansen (bullet train), the major sites can be seen in a day, but if you want to see more and spend more time in each, it’s best that you stay for a night or two.

If you love taking pictures, Kyoto will not disappoint. The temples, shrines and palaces are well preserved and a marvel to explore.

Copyright 2006-2011 Nina Fuentes | Justwandering.org | Let’s build the Blogger House with Habitat for Humanity!

Like many fans of Japanese manga, anime, and dramas, Japan ranks high in my dream destination list. Plans have been made a couple of times, but things have a bad habit of popping up, and the Japan 2010 became a Japan whenever.

I pretty much gave up on seeing Japan in this lifetime. Then Nuffnang happened. Along with the award, I was also given tickets to Osaka on AirAsiaX. I knew I found the right time finally make this dream a reality. I would have prefered a later travel date, but it wouldn’t be the same if I don’t get to travel with the friends I’ve been making these plans with. So I threw caution to the wind, and booked my tickets.

As it turns out, the sakura tree is estimated to bloom in the region while we’re here. Talk about great timing!

I guess that’s the universe’s way of telling me to never give up on my goals. As my favorite quote go, "whatever your dream, keep walking."

I’ve been a fan of Muji since I discovered the brand, and have been to many places with their travel items. The hanging toiletries case served me well, specially in hostel bathrooms that have very limited space, and the neck cushion helped make those long bus and train rides comfortable.

First in my shopping list: the Multi-way cape

In a couple of days I’ll be leaving for Japan, the land of anime, manga, and Muji. Rotch, who’s in charge of our itinerary, made sure to include the biggest Muji store in Tokyo. Heaven help us.

This year, Muji is once again bringing their Muji to GO raffle, where a single receipt of Php 5,000 in any Muji store in the Philippines (with at least Php500 worth of Muji to GO travel item) entitles you to one raffle ticket. This gives you the chance to win one of the following: a Muji travel set (which includes a 56L hand carry case and assorted travel accessories and garments), two round trip tickets to Tokyo via Delta Airlines, or a Canon Ixus 220 HS digital camera. Promo runs from March 16 to April 9, 2012, and winners will be announced on April 12 at the Muji Bonifacio High Street branch. Please note that Promo does not include visa processing, insurance, travel taxes, pocket money, hotel accommodations and the like. Interested participants should be at least 21 years old with a valid passport for at least 6 months prior to departure.

Another worthy investment (specially if you love to shop when you travel): Foldable Bags

Since the summer travel season is almost here, Muji is taking 10% off on the total purchase for every three (3) selected Health and Beauty items, and 5% off on the total amount for every two (2) selected garment items. With deals like this, MUJI items would undoubtedly end up in their luggage this summer. Visit MUJI Philippines on Facebook for more details.

A great gift for the traveler in your life: TP Clear Pouch with PET and PP Bottles, great for hand-carried toiletries and liquids

Muji is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists, Inc. (SSI) in the Philippines. Muji has branches in Bonifacio High Street, Powerplant Mall at Rockwell Center, Greenbelt 3 and SM Mall of Asia. Open for a limited period only in Alabang Town Center, Rustan’s Makati and 158-Designers’ Blvd at The Podium.

Copyright 2006-2011 Nina Fuentes | Justwandering.org | Let’s build the Blogger House with Habitat for Humanity!

Orange cart at Drjemma El Fna square. The freshly squeezed orange juice is really yummy!

As the petit taxi drove through the gates of the medina, we eagerly took it all in, the crowds, the traffic, the noise. It was the complete opposite of Ouarzazate. After the driver insisted we pay more than what the ride should cost, we dragged our luggages down the street beside Cafe de France, the favorite meeting place of tourist and guides in the medina. As soon as I whipped out my iPod to look at the map, touts came to offer to show us the way. Waving them off, we continued walking, following our instincts and finding the derb where Amour Riad is.

We rejoiced upon learning that there are no stairs to contend with to go to our room, but our elation was short lived when we realized that the only thing that separates the toilet and shower from the tiny room is a curtain. Still, the location is excellent: only 7 minutes walk from the square, and there’s a small sari-sari store at the entrance to the alley where I was able to buy a 1-liter bottle of water for only MAD 5.

Prez David at Jardin Majorelle

Though we had plenty of time in Marrakech, we were only able to make it to one major tourist attraction: the Jardin Majorelle, a 12-acre botanical garden that pay homage to Yves Saint-Laurent, who owns its. A nook in the garden has a memorial to the designer, while a small gallery holds various original artwork. When the medina gets overwhelming, this is a lovely place to soak in some peace and quiet.

After the gardens, we walked to a nearby supermarket to buy some supplies. It was fortunate because the rain started pouring. We stayed inside to wait for it to end, and after about an hour, we head back out to get a petit taxi. They were grossly overcharging us, so we decided to just walk until we find another taxi that would take us back to the square. We walked and walked until we found ourselves outside the medina walls. After walking for about 30 minutes, we were back in the souk.

Where argan oil comes from

In Marrakech, we mainly stayed in the square, shopping. There were a lot of pretty things in the souks. Colorful scarves, leather bags in different shapes and color, and shiny tea pots with colorful glasses. In our first venture into the souk, we were after one very specific store: the Assouss Argane Marrakech. Actually, it’s Assouss Cooperative d’Argane in the Lonely Planet guide. We followed the directions in the book and promptly got lost. It’s in the general vicinity of the area where the book says it is and has the same address, so I’m betting it’s the same.

So why all this effort? Argan oil comes from the nut of the argan tree, which grows only in Morocco. This makes the oil very rare and expensive. It is used in cosmetics (as an ingredient or used directly on skin) or in dishes (just drizzle on your food, no direct heat). I asked around and found out that a small bottle of cosmetic grade oil goes for Php 1,500 in Manila. Cla and I hoarded bought 60mL bottles for more than half the price.

Dinner with Lilliane

Braving the souks and finding that shop gave us the confidence to find our way around. True enough, we made the same trip (though through an easier path) the following day to show Lilliane, who happened to be in Marrakech. It was great to meet her again and ask her about her round the world trip. We had dinner with her Couchsurfing host on our first night, then spent the following day shopping in the souk. Because there were three of us, it was easier to bargain because there were three of us buying in the store. That and the fact that Lilliane has mastered the art of haggling.

For dinner, we finally ventured into the Djemma El Fina night market. Touts are very aggressive here, each one trying to outdo each other’s offering. We chose the stall with a very affable waiter, who promised us that one order of brochette has 6 sticks, unlike the others who only serve 5. Aside from the usual bread, we also got complimentary olives and “salad,” which comprised of a couple of dried aubergines and grilled green capsicum.

Yummy

Most of the stalls (and most of the local restaurants actually) offer practically the same menu. They vary only in price, size of the serving, and what comes free with it. There are stalls that have mostly tourists as customers — chances are, the servers would be able to speak to you in English, and there are stalls that are mostly filled by locals. You’ll probably get the menu with the tourist prices, and you might have a hard time talking to the servers, but at least you’ll get a taste of the local fare.

If you’re really into Moroccan cuisine, one thing you can do is attend a cooking class. There are only a handful of names that pop out when you do a Google search, so I went with the one that fit my budget. Souk Cuisine is also recommended in the Lonely Planet, has a lovely website, and the clincher: it includes a trip to the market. We assembled at the Cafe de France, and headed into the souk to buy the ingredients for what we’re cooking that morning. We were handed a wallet with money in it for the goods — we had to select the produce ourselves and haggle with the sellers. We were led out to where the locals buy their food: in the open market where the vegetables are put on top of mats laid down on the ground. Parang namimili lang sa sidewalk. I had to smile because it was exactly like the markets here in Manila, crowds and mud included.

Making the briouates with vegetables

On the way to where the class will be held, we stopped by the community oven for some freshly baked bread. Since not all household has its own oven, they would bring their dough or tangier here to bake and cook, then pick it up after a couple of hours. We settled down and have some olives, bread and tea while the bounty from the market are cleaned and prepared. Gemma, divided us into groups and given tasks. Some chopped, some mixed ingredients, some took turns frying sliced aubergines. It was a very hands-on class, which makes it all the more fulfilling to dig in to our late lunch.

Despite the chaos, the touts (watch out for the henna ladies), and the rain, Marrakech won us over. We haven’t been able to see a lot of must-see places, so I guess that means we have to go back?

Ouarzazate square

Our accommodation for the night was at Hotel Amlal, which we picked because it has Wi-Fi and offered half-board meals. Unlike Hassi Labied though, there were plenty of restaurants and shops in Ouarzazate, so finding food was no problem. Nevertheless, the were glad for the decision to go half-board as Hotel Amlal served the best tagine I’ve tried in Morocco.

After dinner, we made plans for the outing to Aït Benhaddou the following day. We were referred to Desert Dream, who tailored a tour based on what we wanted to do (go to Aït Benhaddou, that’s it). We agreed to a price and meeting time, shook hands and went to bed.

Going off the road to Aït Benhaddou

The following morning, we wandered around Ouarzazate. It was a small, quiet town and in the not-so-early morning, it was practically deserted. A lot of tourists pass here on the way to Erfoud or Merzouga, but not a lot of them stay. There were calls from a handful of shopkeepers to try their food or buy their wares, but they were quick to stop once they were ignored.

Our driver and guide for the afternoon was at the Hotel by 1:30pm and Cla and I were surprised when he led us to a Toyota Land Cruiser. We certainly wasn’t expecting a 4×4 for this trip! As we drove through the town, we were struck at how quiet the entire town was and how everything seemed to be in order.

Aït Benhaddou as seen from a distance

Nicknamed “Ouallywood,” Ouarzazate is home to two film studios, Atlas Studios and Cla Studios (much to the delight of my travel companion). This is where movies like The Mummy, Gladiator, and one of my favorites, Asterix and Obelix: Mission Cleopatra were filmed. Maybe that’s why the town feels like it’s a huge movie set.

The driver veered off the main road and we realized why we’re on a 4×4. He drove a path on the trail and soon we were bumping to a stop next to a gorge. While it wasn’t terrifyingly high, it was still pretty impressive and opens to even more vast expanses of nothingness. We huddled back to the SUV after several photos and drove up, down and across streams, passing a herd of goats and a small oasis village. Finally, we got back on the tarmac and followed the road to the fortified city.

Sayuri at Aït Benhaddou

Unsurprisingly, the road to Aït Benhaddou was lined with souvenir shops and cafe. About 5 minutes’ walk from the car, we came upon a shallow stream that we crossed using a makeshift bridge made of rocks and then a second stream that we crossed by stepping on bags of gravel.

The kzar of Aït Benhaddou is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a traditional pre-Saharan Habitat and a great example of southern Moroccan architecture. The “earthen construction” ensured that the buildings adapt well to the seasons and provides a cool respite from the dessert heat. Aït Benhaddou has within its walls houses, a mosque and even a public square. Up on a hill was an observation tower, which gives you a 360° view of the surrounding area.

View from the observation tower

Its Word Heritage status meant that Aït Benhaddou is in every tourist’s Moroccan itinerary. If you’re planning to go here, plan your trip on a weekday to avoid the crowds.

Copyright 2006-2011 Nina Fuentes | Justwandering.org | Let’s build the Blogger House with Habitat for Humanity!

Erg Chebbi with dunes reaching up to 150 meters in height.

We were met with a bunch of touts, something that we are already used to in Morocco. Each one was offering to take us to a hotel, and we ignored the calls, except for one: Hassan Ougnir’s of the La Source Inn, where we made reservations for.

After getting our luggages, we were herded into a Land Cruiser, which we shared with three other girls from the same bus. Turns out Hassi Labied, the village where the inn is located, is five minutes away. There are no roads between Merzouga and Hassi Labied, just a dirt track in the dessert. The bumpy ride did two things to us: it woke us up from the 11-hour ride from Fes, and it made us realize how exhausted we all are.

Peggy was about 50 meter from me, the foot of the dune about 300 meters away. Those small spikes atop the dune? Those are people.

La Source Inn looked exactly as it did in their website. We loved the wide open spaces, and marveled at how spacious our room was. It felt surreal looking out our window and seeing the sand dunes. The trip has taken its toll and soon we were sprawled in our beds and snoring.

We woke up in the afternoon and when we went out our room, we found out that the other girls ended up sleeping as well. We ventured out the hotel to explore the village with Peggy, one of the other tourist in the bus. It was a quick walk because there really isn’t much to see. It did confirm one thing: there are no stores or restaurants nearby. That’s why the rates for the hotel included breakfast and dinner.

Hassan with the dromedaries for the sunset trek

We headed for the dunes. It was a 10 minute walk to the edge, and when we got there, we realized just how big the dunes were. The Saharan sand is orange and very very fine. Walking and climbing over the dunes takes a lot of energy, as your feet sinks with each step you take.

We watched the sunset and made our way back to the hotel before it got too dark. We were ravenous, having nothing to eat since dinner the night before. Soon we were served bread and soup, followed by a tagine, and capped with Pistachio yogurt and wafers for dessert. There is no television in our rooms nor in the common room, so after dinner, our hosts sang some Berber songs (and telling Berber jokes), and taught us how to play the traditional instruments.

That way to Timbuktu

The following day, we took a sunset camel trek to the dessert. Camel, in this context, actually means dromedary, which only has one hump. We rode to the dessert, the dromedary making good time on the soft sand, walking as if it was nothing. They were pissing and pooping the entire way. True story.

Our guide pointed to the east and proclaimed that Timbuktu us 52 days away by camel. There was nothing but sand dunes as far as the eye can see. I think I’ll go crazy before the 52 days are up.

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