In a way it’s a shame that most people think of the standard Chile Rose Haired and the Curly Haired spiders when they think of tarantulas because many people think that all tarantulas are a boring brown color. Of course this couldn’t be further from the truth and if you know what species to look for one can find every color under the sun – from yellows to greens, purples to reds and with everything inbetween. However possibly most exciting of all are the tarantulas clothed in metallic blue hairs that make them look more like living jewels than the “boring brown” most people associate with tarantulas.

Cobalt Blue Tarantula

Whilst the cobalt blue (Haplopelma lividum) is the classic blue tarantula and is reasonably regularly available it does have a few weaknesses, not least that it spends much of it’s time hiding away, can be very aggressive indeed and actually is a reasonably small tarantula overall.

However seeing the blue legs glowing up under natural light is truly a stunning sight and so for the more experienced tarantula-keeper no collection is really complete without one of these beauties.

Martinique Pink Toed Bird Eater

The Martinique Pink Toe (Avicularia versicolor) also known as the Turquoise Bird Eater manages to combine an unusual cute, “fluffy” appearance with fantastic blue/green hairs making this one of the most colorful tarantulas of all. Whilst they are typically a very expensive species to purchase (due to their popularity) they are indeed very easy to care for and are docile-enough to handle (unlike the Cobalt Blue tarantula) so if you can afford one, this arboreal tarantula should make an ideal pet for tarantua keepers of all levels of experience.

Greenbottle Blue

The Venezuelan Greenbottle Blue (Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens) doesn’t just possess metallic navy blue hairs on it’s legs but also has bright ot=range hairs on the abdomen as well as a gorgeous metallic mint-green carapace. It’s a combination of colors that truly blows the mind of anyone that assumes all tarantulas are a boring brown in color!

What’s more, whilst these spiders aren’t cheap (like most of the blue tarantulas covered here) they are both easy to care for and are reasonably docile. I say reasonably because they’re highly unlikely to bite and can be held safely, but they are a little skittish so care should be taken if you opt to handle your Greenbottle Blue so that your prized specimen doesn’t get startled and try to jump off your hand.

Blue Ornamental/Gooty Saphire Ornamental

A large number of different common names are used for this particularly impressive tarantula so it’s safest that we use it’s Latin name which is Poecilotheria metallica. This Asian arboreal tarantula isn’t just clothed in rich blue hair but is also covered in an assortment of markings and patternings that really have to be seen to be believed. It’s also the spider featured in the photo at the top of this article.

This is frankly one of the single most attractive species of tarantula known in the hobby but this has had to two specific problems. Firstly these sought-after spiders are severely endagered in the wild and this problem is only worsening thanks to poaching for the pet trade. Secondly whilst some dedicated hobbyists are successfully breeding this species in captivity, the young spiderlings are still painfully expensive.

And whilst there are very few tarantulas that are hard to keep, the special conditions and agressive nature of the Poeciltheria – together with the current price of Poeciloeria metallica – means that this species really is the pinnacle of tarantula care and due to their rarity this species should really be left to the experts.

So now it’s your turn… Have you ever kept any of these species? Which is your favorite? Please leave a comment below with your experiences…

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• tarantula hiding

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photo credit: Instant Vantage

It’s essential that any animal can protect itself from predators in the wild and tarantulas are no different. They spend much of their lives hiding in their burrows away from any other creature that may want to eat them. They also have large fangs and powerful venom which can be enough to knock out or even kill some possible predators. But some species of tarantula have one additional trick up their sleeve – urticating hairs.

Urticating hairs are found only on tarantulas from the Americas (“New World tarantulas”) which typically are less aggressive and have weaker venom than tarantulas from other parts of the world.

These irritating hairs are most often positioned on the abdomen of the tarantula though in some species they may also be found in other areas such as around the mouth parts.

When a tarantula feels threatened – either by a potential predator or an over-enthusiastic tarantula keeper – they kick the hairs off their abdomen which then create a cloud of prickly irritation in the air around them, allowing the spider to beat a hasty retreat.

Some species of pet tarantula seem far more likely to kick off their urticating hairs than others – with some tarantulas possessing an obvious “bald patch” on their abdomen thanks to repeated kicking of the hairs.

The Symptoms Of Urticating Hairs

Most commonly urticating hairs can get onto the skin of the tarantula keeper either during handling or routine cleaning and whilst not painful can lead to a “prickly” feeling on the skin which becomes red, inflamed and itchy.

Whilst not physically dangerous this itching can be very annoying and the effects can last for several days after contact has been made though some tarantula keepers have found that antihistamine gels have lessened the effect.

Whilst this is annoying on the hands and arms, the effects can be far more annoying if the hairs are breathed in – as can happen if ones face is too close to a tarantula. In this way the sensitive mucus membranes of the nose can become uncontrollably itchy for a period of time though once again it’s unlikely you will suffer from any permanent injuries as a result.

The greatest risk for the tarantula keeper is if the irritating urticating hairs get into ones eyes…

Urticating hairs in the eyes can lead to swelling, intense irritation and, according to some authorities, temporary blindness. As a result should you ever believe that you have managed to get these tarantula hairs into your eyes immediate medical treatment should be sought.

However I should say that after 15+ years of keeping tarantulas – and owning literally thousands during that time – I have never suffered from hairs in the eyes so with a little bit of common-sense the risks are almost non-existent.

Precautions For Avoiding Urticating Hairs

The media love to blow up stories about tarantulas and the “risks” of urticating hairs have been covered numerous times in the past. Unfortunately most of these stories are exaggerated and as stated the risks are minimal. That said, there are a number of precautions that can be taken if you have concerns…

1) Select A Tarantula Without Urticating Hairs

Hundreds of species of tarantula don’t even have any urticating hairs so arguably the easiest way to avoid the hairs is to simply not buy a tarantula has has them. Remember that Old World tarantulas – those from Africa and Asia – do not possess them and so this eliminates the risk. Equally, please be aware that tarantulas without urticating hairs are typically more likely to bite and may well have more potent venom – offering alternative risks to the tarantula keeper.

2) Minimize Handling

One of the most common times for a tarantula to kick off urticating hairs is when they are being picked up and handled as this can be a stressful experience for spiders. As a result doing your best to minimize handling will also greatly reduce the amount of hairs your tarantula kicks off. A side benefit of course is that a tarantula that sheds less hair will have little or no bald spot on it’s abdomen – making it more attractive to look at.

3) Keep At Arms Reach

As stated, urticating hairs on the hands and arms are annoying but rarely dangerous. However if they come into contact with the nose, mouth or eyes the risks are considerably higher. As a result try to keep tarantulas away from the face by holding them at arms reach and/or wearing a mask and goggles when interacting with them.

4) Wear Gloves

One final risk that is difficult to avoid is cleaning your tarantula cage. Whilst giant spiders are clean animals and need minimal maintenance they do have a habit of placing urticating hairs in and around their cage to dissuade predators. This is especially so if your tarantula has moulted recently. As a result picking around your tarantula’s substrate during cleaning can result in contact being made with urticating hairs so if this is a concern of yours wear gloves during routine cage maintenance tasks. Even thin latex gloves should be enough to protect you.

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If you’ve ever bred praying mantis then you’ll no doubt have seen their egg cases or oothecae as they’re often referred to. Female praying mantis lay numerous eggs together in one single neat little package, then produce a “shaving-foam” type of substance which they cover the eggs in. After a short while this “foam” dries to the consistency of polystyrene packing material. The end result in a tidy mass of eggs covered all over by a thick material which helps to protect the eggs from extremes of temperature as well as from physical damage.

These oothecae really need to be removed from your praying mantis cage after being laid to enable you to more accurately incubate the eggs and rear the youngsters. The problem is that female praying mantis glue these egg cases in place so some skill is required when it comes to removing praying mantis eggs from the cage.

Whilst it is possible to peel praying mantis eggs off the side of whatever glass or plastic container you’re keeping them in there is always a risk that you will damage the eggs in the process because they will be stuck on firmly and it will require quite some effort to dislodge them.

As a result there are two better ways worth knowing of separating the adult female praying mantis from her eggs without risking any damage to the ootheca itself.

The first method involves giving up on removing praying mantis eggs themselves and instead removing the female. Once the female has matured and has been mated, invest in a number of cages of a suitable size. A female will normally lay a number of egg cases after just a single mating though they may not all be fertile and they will typically reduce in size with each successive laying. However in this way one can wait till a female mantis lays eggs and then move her into the next cage you have ready and so on. Over time you will end up with a number of cages empty apart from an ootheca which you can then care for properly.

The alternative method of removing praying mantis eggs is to deliberately place objects in the cage that can be removed, but which will hopefully encourage the female mantis to lay eggs on them. For example it can be a smart idea to place an assortment of twigs and branches into the female’s cage – not just for her to rest on – but additionally she is quite likely to lay eggs on them. One could even go a step further and modify cheap plastic containers like ice cream tubs as homes for adult praying mantis so that even if they stick their eggs to the wall of the “cage” it is easy to cut round the egg case with a pair of scissors and remove it to a suitable incubation area before placing the adult female into a new container.

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The majority of snakes kept in captivity require mammals or birds to eat and it is most common for these to be fed to them dead. Feeding dead animals to a snake means there is less chance of damage being done to your snake during an attack in the narrow confines of a vivarium and additionally it is arguably kinder to the prey item. In some countries it is also illegal to feed live rodents to snakes and so feeding dead specimens circumvents these issues.

For the exotic pet keeper of course keeping a selection of dead prey items in your freezer is also a lot easier than keeping and breeding a range of mice, gerbils and so on in order to have a constant supply of livefood available. Indeed, not having to worry about cleaning and feeding the prey items themselves will considerably cut down on the work you have to do in order to keep your pets fit and healthy.

Personally speaking I keep all my frozen snake food carefully shut away in plastic tupperware boxes, each carefully labeled with the contents, and these boxes are all placed into a specific drawer of my freezer. In over 15 years of keeping dead rodents in my home freezer in this way I have never suffered from any ill health when taking into consideration basic hygiene routines like washing your hands between touching the rodents and any food for human consumption.

Frozen Rodents

Frozen rodents constitute the most popular form of snake food on the market today for a variety of reasons. Firstly rodents are available in a wide range of sizes from tiny newborn mice suitable for baby corn snakes, king snakes and the like right up to full-grown rats suitable for good-sized pythons. This means that once your snake develops a taste for rodents it can serve as a life-time food source as you simply increase the size of the prey items, the number of prey items or the frequency of feeding as the snake grows.

Secondly rodents are easy to breed and grow quickly so they can be produced cheaply and easily by breeders in ethical surroundings so the rodents themselves have a decent quality of life before being “dispatched” for use as snake food. With most snakes only needing to be fed once or twice a week, and with the low cost of buying frozen rodents as snake food it can be a very economical method of reptile feeding.

Whilst there is a limited market for gerbils as snake food the vast majority of sales are for mice and rats. Baby mice are less than an inch in length and so can be used for the hatchlings of most commonly-kept snakes. Adult mice are ideal for adult corn snakes and similarly-sized snakes and the gradations inbetween the two ensure that there is always a suitably-sized meal available irrespective of the size of your snake.

Larger snakes can be moved into rats as a food source and my own royal python/ball python now takes half-grown rats on a weekly basis which have worked out far more cost effective than trying to give him 2 or 3 large adult mice at a feeding.

For those keeping giant snakes like the huge species of python – those generally not safe to keep in the home – some suppliers make frozen guinea pigs and rabbits available as prey items.

Frozen Chicks

Frozen chicks are sometimes available in bulk packs but tend to be far less popular as snake food than rodents. This is partly because they are harder to come by, partly because there have been concerns raised by some snake keepers about the dangers of the sharp beaks that these chicks possess which could rupture a snake’s gut and lastly because generally-speaking it seems they offer less nutrition than a rodent of an equal size. Generally there isn’t much “meat” on a frozen chick when compared to a mouse or rat.

One factor in their favour is that they are an unwanted side-shoot of the poultry industry. Most poultry farmers want hens for egg laying and so the cocks are of little financial use to them. As a result the majority are disposed of as soon as they hatch and one way to recoup a little of that lost investment is by selling the dead chicks as snake food. Contrast this to mice and rats which have been specially bred as snake food and you can understand why chicks tend to be cheaper overall than rodents.

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Having spent some time in Central America recently I have been lucky enough to spend considerable time observing both green iguanas (Iguana iguana) and black spiny-tailed iguanas (Ctenosaura similis) in their natural surroundings and whilst at face value these two species appear very similar I observed some surprising differences between their preferred habitats.

As you might imagine green iguanas were found mostly in warm, humid, forest-like conditions near water. One of the best places I found to observe these reptiles in the wild was to look into dense plant growth overhanging rivers where often dozens of specimens of varying sizes could be found sunbathing or browsing on leaves.

Watched from a safe distance these lizards seemed oblivious to any attention and could be observed without causing them any stress or worry.

As a side note, should you ever visit Costa Rica, look up the Iguana Cafe in Montezuma where you can relax in the sunshine with a cold drink and get closer to wild green iguanas than you could possibly imagine. The following video shows just how close an encounter you can have with a wild iguana though I would strongly caution you against taking risks by trying to hand feed wild green iguanas…

The real interest came when I observed spiny-tailed iguanas which I assumed would have very similar habitat requirements and lifestyles to the common green iguana. My own experiences suggest that while spiny-tails can and do climb trees they are far less likely to do so than the green iguana and you’re far more likely to see them on the ground than up in the canopy.

The environment in which the spiny-tail iguana is found is almost very different to that of the green iguana as it is far hotter, drier and dustier and looking out over fields used to graze horses and cattle one could often see these giant lizards skulking around looking for any ground-dwelling plants to eat.

This could make sense when comparing the colors of the two species. The green iguana is perfectly camoflaged when up in the forest canopy while the spiny-tail with it’s somber markings in black, gray and brown are far better camoflaged against th parched, dusty soil of the more arid areas of Central America.

An additional difference I observed while in the field was that whilst one sometimes saw several spiny-tails in the same field at the same time they seem far less sociable than the green iguanas. While it wasn’t uncommon to find trees literally dripping with adult green iguanas who seemed to be carrying on without a care in the world the spiny-tails were far more solitary and I rarely saw them in close proximity to each other.

Interestingly the fact that spiny-tailed iguanas seemed perfectly at home on dry, dusty ground meant they had also taken up residence on the beach where we stayed by the Pacific coast and a walk along the sand sent dozens of immature individuals darting off to hide behind rocks or shimmy up palm trees to escape from “danger”.

So two very similar-looking and closely-related species yet two totally different lifestyles. And it is understanding these differences and the habitats that reptiles come from that will help us to keep them properly in captivity.

My general findings from a month of watching these incredible reptiles in the wild is that spiny tailed iguanas are likely to prefer hotter, drier conditions than green iguanas and should also have a large amount of floor space where they will likely spend a considerable part of their time.

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Indian stick insects are some of the easiest of all pet invertebrates to keep in captivity and of course have been kept by school children for decades.

Indian (or laboratory) stick insects will feed readily on common food plants such as bramble or privet, which can be kept alive for around a week if inserted into a “vase” of fresh water. If the ends of the plants aren’t placed into water in this way they can die within days in warm weather meaning far more work in finding more foliage and then cleaning out your stick insects.

Stick insects, by their very nature, like to sit off the ground and so you will normally find them climbing around (or clinging to) the food plant you have placed into their cage. Because of this a taller rather than longer cage is recommended where your stick insects will be able to moult successfully by gently slipping out of their old skins.

Old aquariums can be used as caging, or there are a huge range of specialist cages now available such as those made for butterfly breeders to keep and rear various butterflies and moths in.

Size-wise, try to find a cage at least twice as tall as your largest insect is long. A cage of around 60cm high is perfect for adults though lower cages won’t be the end of the world.

So you have your cage and you have placed some food plant in there in a small container of water such as an old jam-jar. Try to plug any “holes” in the top of the jar with cotton wool so that your insects won’t drown if they fall down and you’re almost ready to go. Of course stick insects climb and so a tight-fitting lid is very important to prevent escapees.

Besides this Indian stick insects can be kept at room temperature in a centrally heated home all year and so do not require any additional heat. It is worth spraying the cage a few times a week with a plant spray gun in order to provide moisture so your leaf insects can drink and that’s about all there is to it.

Appreciate that Indian stick insects reproduce asexually – that is that virtually every specimen you find will be a female and will reproduce without you needing any males so many people find that their population of Indian stick insects grows at an astounding rate. Because of this, try to start out with a reasonably small population or you could be spending more time trying to find homes for all your babies than actually enjoying your insects.

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Despite the fact that keeping exotic pets is still quite an unusual hobby when compared to the number of people who won a dog or a cat there are still plenty of exotic pet shops around.

Unfortunately being such a misunderstood hobby – which requires a considerable degree of specialist knowledge – even many vets and local authorities struggle to figure out the differences between a good exotic pet shop and a bad one.

This means that you’re unfortunately just as likely to walk into a bad pet store as a good one when you’re looking to buy an exotic pet so it’s essential that you understand personally how to spot a trustworthy and reliable exotic pet store yourself if you’re going to end up with the sort of pet – and the sort of support – that you’ll need to be successful with this pastime.

Reasons To Find A Reliable Exotic Pet Shop

Exotic pets are sensitive animals that require specialist care. A poorly looked after exotic pet can suffer from all sorts of health problems either from the moment you take them home or later in life which is unpleasant for both you and your pet as well as being potentially expensive to rectify. Getting a healthy exotic pet to start with is essential if you really want to make the most of your pet keeping experience.

Poorly run exotic pet shops may offer either little advice or lots of incorrect advice which can lead to a variety of problems including convincing you to purchase an unsuitable pet or encouraging you to keep it under incorrect conditions leading to ill health at best or an early death at worst.

Lastly the better exotic pet shops will focus on the health of their animals and the satisfaction of their customers so will buy captive bred specimens wherever possible and will put the proper care of exotic pets like reptiles and amphibians at the forefront while a less reliable pet shop may put profits first.

In short buying from a poorly-run exotic pet shop can lead you to buy an unsuitable pet, receive little or no support and rewards the person who is running the store.

How To Identify A Reliable Exotic Pet Store

Each pet shop is of course different and so the factors to look at may vary to a degree but below you will find a list of points worth considering when visiting any exotic pet shop. It’s also worth mentioning that it is a smart idea to not buy a pet from the first store you visit – even if it seems to meet all the standards below – because by visiting a number of stores you will be able to get a far broader and more educated view of the pet shops in your area and therefore make a more informed decision about which exotic pet store deserves your business.

Is The Exotic Pet Store Clean And Tidy?

Any shop owner who cares about their store aims to keep it clean and tidy and this is even more important when it comes to exotic pet shops. With live animals around there are risks of diseases spreading, of unpleasant smells, dropped food attracting rodents and so on.

Exotic pet stores are rarely kept immacculately – many prefer a slightly rougher look with artificial plants and so on – but check to see how well organized and clean it is. Do you feel comfortable in there or is it dark, smelly and dirty?

Are The Staff Knowledgeable?

If you can, try striking up a conversation with a member of staff even if it’s to compement them on their store. If possible try asking a few leading questions about the species you’re considering to see whether the members of staff present really know anything or whether they’re just “there for the money” and have little expertise to speak of.

Once again, a reliable exotic pet store will have knowledgeable staff and will either take on experienced exotic pet keepers or will offer a degree of training to new employees so this can be a useful guide. It’s also worth bearing in mind that these are the people you may be asking questions to in the future if you have any problems so checking they know what they’re talking about can be a good insurance plan for the future.

Are The Exotic Pets Kept Correctly?

Hopefully before you even start looking for exotic pets to buy you’ll have an idea of what species you’re interested in keeping and have read a few books on the subject so you have a basic idea of their requirements in captivity.

Based on this information – as well as other obvious clues – how well do the exotic pets in the shop seem to be kept?

I have been into pet shops in the past where tarantulas were covered in mites, dead fish floated on the top of aquariums, tortoises had nothing but iceburg lettuce to eat and iguanas were kept in bone-dry desert-type setups and all of these set off “warning signs” in my brain that these were pet stores to be avoided either because they don’t know or don’t care what they’re doing.

What Do Others Say?

Lastly it can be a good idea to ask around – either online or in person – to see what other people’s experiences of a certain pet store have been before you make a purchase. A few people’s opinions can often be enough to help you make a final decision – or even to reeavuluate an opinion you’d already formed yourself and is one of the most useful tips for all for identifying the best exotic pet store in your local area.

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Leaf insects are beautiful and fascinating creatures which are almost as easy to care for as many of the popular stick insect species currently reared in captivity but with a number of added bonuses.

Firstly they are truly impressive and fascinating creatures to observe because they really do truly resemble green leaves as adults. Secondly they are docile, unlike some of the larger species of stick insect, so can be safely handled without any risk of personal injury. Lastly keeping leaf insects is just a little bit more unusual and exotic than keeping stick insects though many of the core principles are identical.

Tell someone you keep stick insects and often their eyes glaze over as they think of the boring, green Indian or laboratory stick insect. Tell them you keep leaf insects and many people still don’t even know what they are or what they look like!

After years of keeping, breeding and then rearing baby leaf insects to adulthood I’ve picked up a number of tips from other breeders, from the small number of print books currently available on the subject and, just as importantly, from my own experimentation. If you’re keen to rear leaf insects in the home then you’re about to learn the exact techniques that I have personally found most successful thus giving you the best possible chance of success.

Why Buy Baby Leaf Insects?

As adults leaf insects can be reasonably expensive to buy, particularly when you take into the account the fact that they may only live for a few months once they reach adulthood. In this way it is entirely possible to buy some adult specimens off a legitimate breeder and have them die of old age within weeks if not days.

In this way buying baby leaf insects prolongs the pleasure of keeping them. Indeed some might even argue it increases the interest because you will be able to see your pet leaf insects growing, moulting and turning into adults eventually thanks to your commitment and hard work.

Of course in addition it’s generally far cheaper to buy baby leaf insects than adults and they also require a significantly smaller cage than the adults do meaning that at least initially they won’t take up too much space in your home.

The Keys To Rearing Baby Leaf Insects

As with most species of invertebrate kept in captivity, the younger they are the more fragile they are and so this means that it is important to get the conditions as accurate as possible when you’re dealing with juveniles.

Even then a few losses are almost inevitable but try not to let this get you down. It is perfectly natural and by following the guidance below you will maximize your chances of success in keeping this stunning insect.

That said, it is worth investing in a number of baby leaf insects when you start out rather than trying to cut costs and just buy one or two. Doing so will greatly increase your chances of ending up with an adult pair, after which you will find a non-stop stream of eggs being produced which will enable you to grow your colony considerably.

When it comes to rearing baby leaf insects I have found that there are four real secrets to success. They are feeding, cleanliness, warmth and humidity. Let’s take a closer look at each one in turn and discuss in detail what you need to be providing for your leaf insects.

Feeding

In the past some keepers have found that their hatchling leaf insects refuse to feed and end up dying of starvation. A number of suggestions have been made as to the reason for this including the youngsters not realizing they can eat the food plants provided to them, a general lack of appeal of the chosen food plant and/or the fact that their tiny mouths struggle to deal with tough, older leaves.

For my own leaf insects I provide almost exclusively bramble (blackberry) leaves to eat. That said, I am experimenting with some different species of guava – the natural food plant of leaf insects in the wild. However in general bramble is a decent, reliable food source that can be found almost anyway, at any time of year (even under snow) and seems to provide leaf insects with all the nutrition that they need.

However when providing bramble that I have collected from the countryside I always pay attention to four elements.

Pesticides

To avoid the risk of poisoning my insects with weedkillers or pesticides I try to collect bramble in specific areas. I avoid those close to human habitation such as parks, gardens and roadsides and instead try to collect it from deep in the countryside – such as from publicly-accessible woodland – where the chances of chemicals having been used close-by are minimal.

Predators

Baby leaf insects are tiny and when collecting plant matter from the countryside it’s very easy to accidentally introduce a spider or suchlike that can quickly run  amock among your leaf insects causing multiple fatalities.

I tried for some time to carefully examine every sprig before adding it to the cage but still found I missed the odd beastie that reduced the size of my colony so whilst it takes a little longer I now wash all my food plant under fast-running water – carefully wiping both sides of each leaf which, in combination with the power of the water blasting the leaves – virtually guarantees that no predators will make it into your baby leaf insect cage.

Easy Access

To make the food as appealing as possible and to encourage feeding I like to use a pair of scissors to gently snip the outside off some of the foodplant, which then reveals the juicy inner surface of some leaves. This seems to encourage the babies to feed voraciously and by following this simple process you give your youngsters as good a start as possible. Furthermore after a few weeks it’s possible to stop this process altogether once your leaf insects have gained an appetite for the food plant you’re providing.

Freshness

The food your provide needs to be fresh. This typically means changing it two or even three times a week for youngsters. Once my leaf insects get to a decent size of an inch or two in length I move them into larger cages where I have place springs of bramble into a water-filled jam-jar. Doing so keeps the leaves fresh for a week or so, cutting down on my maintenance drastically but doing so for young nymphs really isn’t realistic. So bite the bullet if you’re going to rear baby leaf insects and appreciate you’ll need to be topping up those leaves on a regular basis.

Cleanliness

In the warm, sweaty confines of an insect cage, with numerous hatchlings defecating plus the odd death a leaf insect cage can quickly become pretty nasty and hygiene is as important with insects as it is when keeping any other pet.

I typically clean out my leaf insects twice a week when they’re babies and once a week as adults. The adults typically make less mess overall hence the less regular cleaning.

When it comes to cleaning leaf insects out I don’t simply mean changing their food plant but rather and entire “top-to-toe” clean. I throw out old leaves (after checking them for babies!), remove all the insects themselves from their cage and give the whole cage a thorough wash and scrab before allowing it to air dry.

Because baby leaf insects can move swiftly – and you may well be keeping a number of them together – the cleaning process can be a little problematic. Add to this the fact that washing the container and letting it dry can take some time and personally I have found it useful to have “spare” cages available.

In this way I can set up a fresh cage and transfer the baby leaf insects straight into it from the “old” one and can then clean the old cage at my leisure without any risk of losing some of my precious baby leaf insects.

Warmth

Coming from tropical regions leaf insects like a warm environment and this is even more important for hatchlings. Whilst adults will often cope fine in a centrally-heated room I like to try and provide some gentle background heat for hatchlings and you will normally find that those insects that are kept warmer will grow quicker too and attain adulthood that bit sooner.

To do this I like to leave one end of my leaf insect cages on a reptile heat pad, whilst the main body of the container is off it. In this way a gentle temperature gradient is created with one end warmer than the other allowing the insects to choose the temperature that they find most comfortable.

As always, if I find all the babies at the heated end I move more of the cage onto the heater and vice versa. By paying attention to the behaviour of your pets in this way you will be able to give them the best possible conditions to grow and thrive.

Humidity

The element I have left till last is humidity – and for good reason. In my experience humidity is the single most important aspect of all and I can trace my success rate almost directly to my provision of the correct moisture levels in my baby leaf insect cages.

Put simply, baby leaf insects rapidly get dehydrated and when they do so they often die. Furthermore a humid environment is often needed to allow your pets to easily change their skins – as they will naturally do many times while growing.

On the flipside, small leaf insects can become trapped in large droplets of water and a “wet” rather than a “moist” environment can encourage mould and/or breathing problems.

Finding the right balance is therefore essential to your success.

In warmer months I like to keep my adults in net cages, where they can easily climb, where the netting allows a strong and reliable foothold and where the ait movement prevents stagnant air building up.

However I have equally found that these net cages are not suitable for youngsters as they don’t allow you to raise the humidity to a suitable level.

For rearing baby leaf insects I like to use small aquariums or plastic boxes as sold by many supermarkets or hardware stores for keeping food, tools and so on in. I like the clear plastic ones to maintain visibility and look for a size of around 30cm long by 15-20cm wide and tall.

A container of these dimensions is ideal for hatchlings and it provides the necessary space to move around, to moult and also for me to include plenty of leaves to feed on. Equally it isn’t so large that the babies can become lost and I can also easily reach any part of the cage for spot cleaning, rescuing any sick-looking individual and so on.

I use containers with tight-fitting lids to keep the tiny babies in – and these also help to keep in the moisture. The base of the container is covered with a thick layer of kitchen towel to absorb any excess moisture and thus prevent drowning by the babies.

In this environment the leaves will naturally transpire and give out moisture vapor which is then trapped within the confines of the cage providing a moist environment ideal for rearing leaf insects in.

Regular changing of the leaves ensures a constantly supply of moisture while regular cleaning means that stagnant air can escape on a regular basis and the kitchen towel never becomes too soggy so as to become a danger to the insects.

Setting Up A Cage For Your Leaf Insects

Setting up a cage for baby leaf insects is therefore simple if you have paid attention to the steps outlined above. Find yourself a couple of decent-sized plastic containers (Tupperware boxes are ideal) and, keeping at least one as a spare to make cleaning easier, line the base of the remaining container(s) with kitchen towel.

Add to the container some freshly-cut and washed food, add the insects and secure the lid. Place one end of the container on a heat mat and then simply place the container in an area where it won’t suffer from temperature extremes. This means avoiding windows for example where direct sunlight could cook your pets or where a  breeze could lead to an unpleasantly cold atmosphere for your leaf insects.

Kept in this simple manner you should find your leaf insects remain fit and healthy and grow at an impressive rate. Soon enough you’ll need to start moving them up into larger cages until you find yourself with a number of adult specimens who will lay eggs and therefore start the process all over again.

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• baby insects
• baby triops
• different types of stick insects
• How to Make an Aquarium out of a plastic container
• HOW TO TRANSFER BABY STICK INSECTS
• insect rearing box
• insects boxes
• leaf bugs from baby to adult
• leaf insect

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• Leaf Insect Eggs
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photo credit: stormwarning.

Bearded dragons are extremely fascinating and remarkable pets that never fail to amaze. Like any animal, they require love, care and specific living arrangements to keep them happy and healthy. Reptile vivariums at Pets at Home should be your first essential purchase. A vivarium for a dragon should be a miniature eco system that will allow your pet to live in an environment that is as close to his natural habitat as possible.

A suitable vivarium should be large enough to allow your reptile to roam about and remain active when he wants to. Bearded dragons tend to grow up to between 38cm to 60 cm – the equivalent of 15 to 24 inches – so a vivarium of around 120cm in length, 60cm wide and 60cm tall (72 x 24 x 24 inches) is deemed appropriate.

Bearded dragons enjoy a combination of light and shade at various points during the day, therefore you should make sure the vivarium isn’t placed in an area that is in light for 24 hours or prone to loud noises – these will cause your pet stress. In addition, you must ensure that the vivarium is never in direct sunlight, especially in summer, as this will heat up the environment of the vivarium and will make it difficult to control the temperature inside the mini home.

When the tank has been purchased and placed in its position, you will need to keep an eye on the heat, light and moisture levels within the tank. A cocktail of lighting, heat mats, thermostats and specialist equipment must be purchased to achieve the desired effect. Failure to utilise suitable temperatures or UV lights can result in your beloved pet having serious health implications.

Finally, the base of a vivarium should be covered with a suitable substrate – the material of which will depend on the reptile you have. This will need clearing of any soiling on a daily basis. As a final touch, add plants and other décor to make the vivarium feel even more comfortable and homely for your bearded dragon.

Other Exotic Pet Keepers Found This Article Under:

• bearded dragon vivarium set up
• vivariums
• bearded dragon vivarium
• exotic pet insect

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photo credit: SMB(spidermanbryce)

Praying mantis are carnivourous insects that need a diet of live animals of a suitable size. Whilst praying mantis have been observed in the past catching and eating small birds, lizards and mammals almost their entire diet is typically made up of life insects so when it comes to praying mantis and how to feed them this is where you should be focusing your efforts.

Praying Mantis: How To Feed Them On Commercially Available Insects

The various livefood suppliers now breed a wide range of insects which can be bought cheaply and easily either online or from specialist exotic pet shops. Whilst any of these insects can be given as food to praying mantis there is one tip worth bearing in mind and that is quite simply that in the wild praying mantis like to sit up in trees and bushes waiting for pray rather than sitting on the ground.

This means that insects which stay on the ground are generally of less interest than those that will either climb or fly up to where your praying mantis is perching. They will still get eaten but extra effort will be required by your mantis to slowly climb down after them and if your praying mantis is kept in a tall cage it may be some time before he or she notices the insect prey you have introduced to the floor of the cage.

For small praying mantis then fruit flies (Drosophila) can be an ideal prey item while larger mantids can fare very well on larger flies and moths such as mature waxworms.

The easiest route I have found is to buy a tub of maggots and keep them in the fridge to slow down their development. Every few days take out a number and place them into a plastic container with some sawdust where after a few days they will turn into black or brown pupae.

These pupae can then be easily dropped into your mantis cage where they will hatch into adult flies after a few days not only giving your mantis some flying prey to target but also making dealing with the feeding process very easy for you.

How Much To Feed Praying Mantis

In my experience it is impossible to over feed a praying mantis and the more a mantis eats the faster it will grow. So in essence feel free to provide as much food as your mantis will eat.

The one exception to the rule is when your mantis is approaching a moult. Typically a praying mantis will stop feeding for a period of time before changing it’s skin and it can be a wise idea if you notice your mantis has gone off it’s food to remove any livefood from the cage. Doing so will mean that when your praying mantis moults – and is therefore at it’s most defenseless – there won’t be other insects around which may stress, annoy or injure your pet.

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• mantis
• praying mantis

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