The BBC’s Peter Day visited Rwanda recently to find out more about the ambitions for the country. The first part of his report is now online. Peter visited the veg-tastic Kimironko market, talked to Louise Mushikiwabo, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Carina Tertsakian, from Human Rights Watch, Josh Ruxin of Rwanda Works and Heaven Restaurant and many others. It’s a good introduction to the Rwanda of today. It’s all very positive, but the report also takes a look at some of the potential dangers ahead,

Rwanda has huge ambitions to grow itself out of poverty and become a middle income country by the year 2010, as an information technology and business hub for central and eastern Africa. Rwanda although poor, hopes to set an example that it is possible to do proper business in Africa. Listen as Peter Day reports on how Rwanda is trying to re-create itself. link

There will be more reports from Rwanda in the coming days. I’ll add the links to them on this post when they appear online.

Photo taken from the Kimironko market set in the Kigali Wire Flickr account.

Sixteen people were injured in two simultaneous grenade attacks in Kigali last night at around 7pm. The attacks happened in Kimironko, close to the taxi rank, and in Kinamba, near the Gisozi Genocide memorial. The bombings occur less than one month after similar attacks in central Kigali. Only on Wednesday, President Paul Kagame blamed the earlier attacks on former chief of staff, Lieutenant-General Kayumba Nyamwasa, who has fled to South Africa,

“They cannot … destabilize the solid foundation we have already built of security and stability for our citizens,” Kagame told reporters. “We have all it takes to prevent and act on any dangers to our country.” link

“Nobody, absolutely nobody, not even Kayumba, can carry out a coup here. Think about it and you’ll come to the conclusion no one can carry out a coup” in Rwanda, the President said. “People can only dream about it, wish for it; I believe what I’m telling you,” Kagame said. link via postcardjunky

“We are still investigating to know if they are coordinated or not and who are the real attackers. We are yet to know if it was the same (people),” police spokesman Eric Kayiranga told Reuters by telephone. link

The New Times quotes the Secretary General of the Rwanda Patriotic Front (RPF), François Ngarambe, as saying he has the right to summon officials,

“Why should he question my asking him to give a report to RPF on duties he was assigned to by the nation? His assignment as Rwanda’s Ambassador to India was political and not military,” Ngarambe told a press conference at his offices. “But you know, some people seeking refuge sometimes tend to concoct sensational reasons”. link

In addition, there was also a third unrelated, reportedly accidental, explosion in Gisenyi in the north-west of Rwanda last night in which one person died.

Much like February’s grenade attacks, I first learned about last night’s events on Twitter. The number of Twitter users is relatively small in Rwanda, but it is well worth keeping an eye on when breaking news happens in Kigali. You can follow me on @kigaliwire. If you are in Rwanda and you use Twitter, let me know and I’ll add you to the Rwanda Twitter list.

UPDATE: The BBC’s Geoffrey Mutagoma in Kigali has more on the attacks. Listen below,

UPDATE: The journalist Deo Mushayidi is arrested in connection with the grenade attacks,

“Deo Mushayidi, one of the main perpetrators of these acts, was arrested in Burundi and is currently in the hands of the police,” [Rwanda’s Prosecutor General, Martin Ngoga] said, reading from a prepared statement. No questions were allowed after his brief statement. He claimed Mushayidi, previously believed to be in Belgium, has been shuttling between various countries in the region and security forces have been monitoring his movements. link

The This Is Africa blog adds a bit of background to the arrest. Meanwhile, Texas in Africa has an excellent summary of some of the key theories behind the grenade attacks.

One additional theory that is doing the rounds in Kigali suggests Nkunda sympathisers could be behind the grenade attacks. While conspiracy theories abound, hard facts have yet to emerge.

Photo taken from the Kigali Wire Flickr account.

I headed out to Rubona, 35 kilometres east of Kigali, last Saturday to watch a football match. Stoke City were playing Arsenal at the Britannia Stadium in Stoke-upon-Trent in an English premiership match.

A contact from London was in Rwanda for one week to see how feasible it would be to broadcast live football on a large, inflatable screen in rural Rwanda. If this test went well, so the theory goes, he would try and secure funding to repeat the process at ten different locations throughout Rwanda during the World Cup in June and mirror the project over the border in Uganda, Kenya and over the way a bit, in Ghana.

I observed the team at work for a day and created the slideshow below from images I took. It was an entertaining ride, I hope you that comes across. Hit the full screen mode in the bottom right hand corner to see how the screening went, and how the people of Rubona and Rwamagana district reacted.

Some 26 years after Mitterand, the French President Nicolas Sarkozy visited Kigali today for a total of around three hours. The newly appointed French Ambassador to Rwanda, Laurent Contini, had already stolen much of Sarko’s thunder by announcing the big news earlier in the day; the French school in Kigali is set to re-open in September and the French Cultural Centre will re-open “soon”.

All of which left Sarko with, well, just the small matter of a much hoped for, much anticipated “apology”. It wasn’t forthcoming. Here are a few of the highlights from the press and blogs during the day. A selection of images of Sarkozy’s visit, from Paul Kagame’s Flickr account, can be seen above and below,

From The Guardian’s Comment is Free blog,

So far, the only country to have held a credible inquiry into the circumstances of the genocide is Belgium whose troops – the only effective UN contingent in Rwanda – had been hastily withdrawn when the killing began. Ten years ago, the then prime minister Guy Verhofstadt had gone to Kigali and begged the people of Rwanda for forgiveness. “I accept the responsibility of my country,” he said. We are unlikely to ever hear the same from Sarkozy [Linda Melvern] – link

From The Guardian,

Before the press conference, Joseph Habineza, the Rwandan culture minister, who observed a minute’s silence with Sarkozy at the memorial to the mostly Tutsi victims of the genocide, was quoted as saying: “If he apologised it would be a lot better.” link

From Agence France Presse,

“What happened here is unacceptable, but what happened here compels the international community, including France, to reflect on the mistakes that stopped it from preventing and halting this abominable crime,” [Nicholas Sarkozy] said – link

And again, from Agence France Presse,

The highlight of Sarkozy’s hours-long trip to Rwanda was his visit of the main genocide memorial in the capital Kigali. “In the name of the people of France, I pay my respects to the victims of the genocide against the Tutsis,” he wrote in the visitors book. He observed a minute’s silence in front of one of the 14 mass graves containing the remains of some 250,000 people and laid a wreath.

Sarkozy, whose country Rwanda also routinely accuses of sheltering wanted genocide suspects, stressed he was keen for all those responsible for the massacres to be punished. Accompanied by his delegation, including Foreign Affairs Minister Bernard Kouchner, and by two Rwandan ministers, the French president spent 20 minutes touring the memorial’s museum.

Sarkozy remained silent when his Rwandan guide tried to elicit an apology and also stopped short of voicing an apology for France’s alleged role in the genocide during the press conference. The guide showed him a portrait of former UN chief Kofi Annan and said pointedly that “he apologised” for the failings of the international community in 1994. – link

From The New York Times,

“He should have stayed more than three hours,” said Sam Kagabo, a journalist in the capital. “The French are here after 16 years. He should have given more respect to Rwandans.” link

From The New Times,

In the current global partnership in development, countries should focus on improved relations for economic growth. This time, the two countries should come up with a final decision on their relations; we will not be closing and opening our embassies every time [Jean D’Amour Ntiyonteze, a motorcyclist] – link

From Mo’Problems,

Renewed Franco-Rwandan relations are not about cultural and diplomatic reconciliation. They are about failed politics. – link

And finally, from Kagatama, the best post I’ve read anywhere related to Sarkozy’s visit,

I can never forget how utterly dismayed I felt when, while he was visiting Kigali on 13 August 2001, the French Minister of Foreign Affairs, Hubert Védrine, refused to pay his respects at a genocide memorial site because he did not want to be drawn into the ‘exploitation of the tragedy by the regime in place…’ …Today is Thursday 25 February 2010. All is quiet. The people of Rwanda are anxiously waiting to hear what Nicolas Sarkozy, President of the Republic of France, has to say… [Kagatama] link

Flickr user Footysphere takes a great look back at some postage stamps apparently issued by Rwanda during the 1970 World Cup in Mexico. I say “apparently” as, according to stamp spotters on the Internet, there are a lot of fake vintage stamps produced around the world and Rwanda has fallen victim on occasion. If you’re really keen, and quick (sale ends March, 2010) you can even buy a set of these stamps on eBay. As there are very few post offices in Rwanda in 2010, I’m a little sceptical as to how many Rwandans knew of, or used, postal services back in 1970.

UPDATE: Karl, who keeps the Footysphere Flickr account, dropped me a line to tell me more about the stamps,

There are many ‘illegal stamps’ that purport to be issued by Rwanda but this is a genuine issue listed in all the major catalogues. However you’re right about the practical nature of Rwandan stamp issues, they were rarely used for postal purposes. They were commercially issued mainly for collectors and brought in much needed revenue to Rwanda’a postal administration.

The Liverpool Echo uses CCTV camera footage to trace the 4350 mile journey of “disgruntled Rwandan businessman” Claude Rubagire as he travelled from Burundi to a factory in Liverpool in March, 2009. The businessman came armed with possibly the world’s most ingenious improvised (non) explosive device – the panty bomb.

For a year Rubagire had tried, and failed, to recoup $600,000 for a shipment of the rare mineral tantalite to “metal analysis firm Alfred H Knight International” based in the St. Helens district of Liverpool in the UK. It appears “Oxford educated” Rubagire, quite rightly, became miffed when the tantalite, assessed as 45% pure and valued at $600,000 by Alfred H Knight in Africa, turned out to be “0.1% pure and worthless” when it later arrived in Singapore.

Frustrated, Rugabire took the only logical step left open to him. He made a “bomb” out of knickers, socks and transistor radios, flew to Europe, held siege to Alfred H Knight International and threatened “carnage” for almost six hours,

Jailing Rubagire, Judge Bryn Holloway said: “You created a realistic explosive device meant to frighten anyone who saw it…

Realistic? Where does this judge buy his undies?

as a result of that looking for publicity for your cause… But at the end of the day this was a very serious offence… [he] added there “is a huge background to the case” and “there is no doubt that along” the line he was the victim of a “serious fraud”, though he did not point the finger of blame at any party. link

The Liverpool Echo reports that Rugabire was sentenced to four-and-a-half years for intent to explode his knickers “placing an article with intent”.

Photo taken from the Liverpool Echo.

This story appears to be a hoax. I’m told Ingabire had a meeting at the UK High Commission and then went home. I can hardly wait until the presidential race starts for real. Just imagine the jolly japes…

According to her party’s Facebook page (basically a feed of press releases), the 2010 Rwanda presidential election hopeful, Victoire Ingabire Umuhoza, is curently was seeking “protection and refuge” at the UK High Commission in Kigali. Here’s the beginning part of her the phoney statement dated 12:29pm today Kigali time,

Following confirmed information of an imminent arrest, detention in a solitary confinement, physical and mental harassment and psychological torture, Ms. Victoire Ingabire, the Chair of UDF INKINGI, managed to reach the British High Commission in Kigali for a temporary refuge. link

Ingabire has been in the spotlight ever since she arrived in the Rwandan capital in mid-January. Over the weekend her party announced that it would join forces with two other opposition parties. This morning The New Times said it would begin publishing a “well researched investigative report” into Ingabire in tomorrow’s edition. Contact FM will begin broadcasting the first part of the same investigation this evening.

Ingabire has lived in Holland for the past 16 years. There is a Dutch Embassy in Kigali. It’s not clear as to why she would turn to the Brits for “protection”. Probably because she never sought refuge in the first place? Which all begs the question: what is the statement doing on the “official” UDF INKINGI Facebook fan page in the first place? The plot doesn’t so much thicken, as get thick.

Or am I missing sommit?

Photo taken from Victoire Ingabire’s offical site

In the wake of the 1994 Rwanda genocide, an estimated 2 million Hutus fled across the border to DR Congo. Nearly 16 years later, some of these Rwandans are coming home under a reconciliation and repatriation programme sponsored by the United Nations and the Rwanda government. Sorious Samura reports on the returnees for Al Jazeers’a People and Power series. He follows one woman called Vestine, who was 16 years old when she escaped over the border, to see and what she found when she arrived home. You can watch the journey below.

“With God’s help I will get back to my country, back to my home. That’s all.

“I don’t know anything about the genocide. I didn’t kill anyone or steal from anyone. I just want to get back to my home, to my family property with my children,” she says. link

Go online and read about Rwanda for more than 5 minutes and I guarantee you’ll learn three things very, very quickly – Rwanda has been “completely transformed”, “plastic bags are banned” and “the streets are clean”. These observations are factually accurate and many Rwandans are rightly proud of them. However, there’s one other, perhaps less factual, phrase you are certain to brush up against should you make even the most cursory online search for all things Rwandan. Rwanda has apparently changed a lot of people’s lives. According to the latest search results, about 18,000 of them.

Which got me thinking… In this highly competitive region, has Rwanda changed more lives (at least on a superficial, basically meaningless, virtual level) than its neighbours? It turns out, for this completely unscientific survey, it has not. That honour goes to the larger neighbour to the north:

• Uganda – 23,900 lives transformed
• Congo – 20,500 lives transformed
• Rwanda – 18,000 lives transformed
• Tanzania – 17,500 lives transformed
• Burundi – 9,560 lives transformed

Let’s try and deal with any theoretical margin of error in my extensive research and mirror this across blogs. The results are slightly different, but there’s no change at the top of the table.

• Uganda – changed 1,762 lives
• Rwanda – transformed 1,104 lives
• Congo – altered 505 lives
• Tanzania – a little less at 467 lives
• Burundi – a paltry 85 lives

There you have it. Conclusive proof that if it’s the life changing East/Central Africa experience you’re after, Uganda is the place for you. But, you can forget about Burundi.

Photograph of downtown Kigali by kind permission of Rwanda Nziza

Between 6 – 12 visitors, paying $500 per head, are allowed to visit Rwanda’s famous Gorillas in the Virunga National Park per day. I’ve yet to visit, but I plan to even with the high price tag and one hour time limit. Fortunately, a good many of the visitors who have made the trek took a camera with them and uploaded their pictures to the Internet. I’ve started compiling some of the better images in the Gorilla gallery. On Flickr alone, there are over 11,000 images of Gorillas in Rwanda currently available. If you spot an image you think should be added to the gallery, drop a comment in the box below.

Thanks to DaevidJ for allowing me to use his particularly cute picture of a baby Gorilla in Volcanoes National Park