When starting to add Koi to your new pond, remember to start off with a few Koi at first and do not overstock your pond. The reason for this is so that the biological filter can mature. It will take 6 to 8 weeks to be mature and then you can add more Koi. You must add Koi to your pond in the beginning to help the biological filter mature. It is very tempting to see a whole lot of brightly coloured Koi and want to add a whole lot to the pond, but becareful when selecting your Koi. When looking for smaller Koi if you see a small fault, don’t buy that fish, as the Koi grows larger so will the fault. Never buy a small Koi that looks completely finished, Koi need to have time to develop there true potential over time. If you choose a Koi that looks perfect when small it may not last, as it gets older. Early finished Koi will lead to early decline of the Koi. When selecting smaller Koi look for a good body shape and make sure the Koi has all its fins and barbles.
When buying medium to larger Koi it is a bit easier as the Koi wont change in colour as drastically as small Koi do, and you have more of a chance of selecting a Koi that will remain very close to the body shape, pattern and colour you have selected. But with Koi there are never guarantees and that is what makes this hobby so fascinating and challenging.

The most important item to remember is that you have a limited space in your pond and will only be able to keep a certain number of Koi. Make sure you buy the best Koi you can afford and rather buy more expensive smaller Koi and let them grow into the pond, than large cheaper Koi, with bad body shapes and dull colours. The amount of time, effort and money you have spent building your pond, make sure the Koi you select are of a high quality to be in your pond. Koi are refered to living jewels in the water and that they are indeed. Get guidance from your Koi professionals, but always keep personal taste in mind and only choose a Koi that appeals to you.

• Koi do not fight among themselves or with other fish.
• They grow quickly and live a long time – they may even outlive you!
• Koi can be kept indoors or outdoors in a pond.
• Koi are ‘child friendly’; unfortunately their ponds are not, unless safety nets are put in place. Being the mother of a young child, I know the joy children get from touching pets and Koi will merrily suck on inquisitive fingers, causing no harm but lots of giggles.
• Koi can tolerate water that freezes for months providing the water doesn’t freeze solid with them inside. They can also take water temperatures that rise to almost 35-40 degrees, provided there is sufficient aeration.
• Quite a few of my male customers have told me that their Koi are a joy to them as they do not talk back or ask them to do anything!
• Lastly, Koi ponds are attractive and add a decorative touch to your garden.

Filtration for small ponds and water features.
Correct filtration and aeration are critical for Koi and improve the appearance of all water features. The best way to filter ponds is to have both mechanical and biological filtration. This can consist of a bottom drain and a weir taking out solids and leaves into a settlement chamber and then pumping water through a biological filter. Small ponds and water features often do not have enough space for this type of arrangement however there are some ways around this. Some examples of filters for small areas are:

CB0, which filters up to 750 litres of water.
CB1, which filters up to 1800 litres of water.
CB2, which filters up to 1440 litres of water.
Tetra filters, which filter ponds of 4000 litres.

‘Ultrazap’ filters, which consist of a filter with a built-in ultraviolet light. The 8-watt/15-litre gravity filter filters up to 1200 litres, and the 8-watt/25-litre filters up to 4000 litres.
When you install a ready-made pond or water feature, try to place it in a shady area. If a pond is placed directly in full sunlight it will go green in a few days. If you have a water feature and do not want to keep fish but would like to grow water plants you can just use a UV light filter. This will assist in keeping the water clean, as algae can be controlled with relatively fast flow rates through a UV filter. Unfortunately the UV filter will not kill the thick strings of algae known as ‘blanket weed’.

A USEFUL TIP: Place your water pump in a water lily basket. This prevents the pump sponge from blocking up so fast. It also helps prolong the life of your pump because it does not suck up as much dirt as it would if it was sitting on the bottom of the pond or water feature.

According to “Manual to Nishikigoi,” a book by Dr. Takeo Kuroki, the word “Koi” was first used about 2,500 years ago in China, and was the name given to a carp presented to Confucius’ son (who was born in 533 BC). It appears that coloured carp originated in China between AD 700 and AD 1000 and were probably natural mutations of carp that featured patches of colour on them. By the year AD 1500, specimens had been exported to Japan.

By AD 1800, in the region of Niigata prefecture in Japan, rice farmers were breeding carp as a food source but somewhere between the 1820s and 1830s, they began to breed some of the carp for aesthetic appeal. Thus, being the first to take the naturally occurring mutations and develop them further, the Japanese are now generally recognized as the creators of Nishikigoi (Living Jewels).

In 1914 the mayor of Higashiyama Mura sent 27 Koi to the Tokyo exhibition in an attempt to help alleviate economic poverty in Niigata by creating commercial interest in the fish. The collection of Koi were awarded second prize for exhibits at the show and afterwards eight Koi were presented to the son of the Japanese Emperor. It is said that this launched the flourishing Koi industry that we know today. Koi were introduced to South Africa in the 1970s.

The 15 varieties of Koi
The fifteen varieties are groupings defined by ZNA, the Japan-based international promoter of Koi-keeping. There may in the future be additional varieties or sub-varieties that will be recognised.

Kohaku
This is a white fish with red (hi) markings. The red markings should be distributed to create a balanced pattern. The white should be pure and a white gap of about 2 cm between the last hi marking on the peduncle and the start of the tail fin is appreciated. This is called ojime. There are different patterns in the Kohaku. The stepped patterns may be nidan (two-step), sandan (three-step) and yondan (four-step).

Sanke
This is a tricolour Koi with red (hi) and black (sumi) markings distributed as a pattern across its body. The sanke is one of the most difficult Koi to breed. Only a small percentage of each spawning will produce the desired balance of tricolour. The black must appear like Japanese lacquer: fine and uniform in shade, with depth and overall lustre. Tejima are appreciated – these are short sumi stripes in the pectoral fins.

Showa
The Showa is a black fish with markings of white and red (hi). A distinct feature by which a showa can be distinguished is a sumi marking on the head. White markings that are not too large are preferred. The presence of motoguro is appreciated – motoguro is a roundish sumi marking at the base of the pectoral fins.

Utsurimono
This is a black Koi with white, yellow or red markings. The black background is usually represented as the bolder pattern. Deep, shiny, blue-black sumi with a reflective pattern and motoguro in the fins is appreciated.

Bekko
This is a member of the sanke family, but it is considered a variety on its own. A Bekko is a white, red or yellow Koi with small sumi markings. The pattern is simple yet elegant -looking like stepping stones running along the length of the body.

Asagi
This Koi has shadings of colour, a light and dark blue back and red abdomen, cheeks and fins. The scales should be perfectly aligned to create an appearance of netting. The head colouring may range from white to paler blue and there are no scales on the head.

Shusui
This is the doitsu (no scales) version of the Asagi. The Shusui was created in 1910 when an Asagi Sanke was bred to a doitsu Koi. The characteristic feature of the Shusui is the line of scales along the dorsal line. This line is partially separated by the dorsal fin into two rows of scales. The rest of the body is without scales. The head ought to be virtually white and the blue must run evenly from the back to the tail fin and from the dorsal line to just below the lateral line. The hi (red markings) must be deep and confined to the chin, the cheeks, the abdomen and the base of the fins.

Koromo
The Koromo is the result of breeding Kohaku to Asagi, Asagi to Sanke and Showa to Asagi. Most favoured points in the Koromo are: A white ground without blemish, clean fins, bold colour markings, a smallish off centre head marking in a Ai-goromo and the absence of a head marking in Budo goromo.

Goshiki
The Goshiki is a five-coloured fish: white, red, black, light blue and dark blue. The Goshiki appeared around 1917 and its most favoured points are: white pectoral fins, even robing of the scales and a white dorsal fin. The ground colour must show up the hi markings.

Kawarimono
These are the non-metallic varieties, some of the popular ones are: Hajiro which has a black body with white tips to the fins, Oshiba Shigure which means ‘autumn leaves floating on water’ and the Kumonryu.

Ogon
This refers to single coloured metallic Koi, and is a very popular variety. They appeal to the new Koi collector due to their metallic lustre while experienced Koi keepers value the size they achieve.

Tancho
This is a Koi that has a red hi marking on the head. The are different shapes that are acceptable are: round, square, oval, diamond, heart and cross. The most sought after marking is a perfect round marking that does not touch or extend over the eyes, lips, cheeks or shoulder.

Kinginrin
All of the varieties can be bred to have this gorgeous sparkling scalation. The scalation is called kinginrin or ginrin.

Hikari Moyomono
Moyo is the Japanese word for ‘pattern’. This group accommodates all Koi with two or more metallic colours, excluding those that come from the Utsuri (black) lineages. The Hariwake and the Kujaku are very popular Koi from this group.

Hikari Utsurimono
The Hikari Utsurimono results from cross-breeding Ogon and Showa or Ogon and Utsurimono to produce metallic Showa and metallic Utsuri.

By Angela Beckx

There are both pros and cons to using non iodated sea salt in koi ponds; some koi keepers feel it is very beneficial while others are strongly against it. Non iodated salt is very affordable and is widely available, so it is often recommended. In my opinion, salt is most useful as a short-term treatment, or a treatment to be used in quarantine procedures. Let’s look at some of the benefits of using salt as well as some of the problems it can cause.

The pros of using salt:

• Salt promotes mucus flow on the skin of the koi, which helps protect the koi against harmful life forms like parasites, fungus and bacteria. The extra mucus makes it harder for them to infect the koi.
• Salt is known to have mild bactericidal properties, which makes it very useful for controlling bacterial infections that are usually encountered in poorly maintained ponds. Salt can help work against many protozoan parasites, including costia, trichodina and chilodonella, as well as flukes and other ectoparasites.
• Salt can also assist in osmoregulation problems caused by bacterial ulcers and help clear congested gills.
• Salty water is believed to relax koi and relieve the stress caused by osmosis.
• Salt is safer than many other treatments that are added to pond water and will not adversely affect the biological filtration in koi ponds as long as the salt is added to the water in the pond and not the water in the filter section. (If salt is added directly to the filter the sudden rise in the salinity kills the beneficial bacteria in the bio-filter.)

The negatives of using salt:

• Once you add salt to your pond water it remains in the water; it will not evaporate and your filter will not remove it. This means you need to keep detailed records of the dates that you add salt and the quantities. The recommended dose is 3 kg of non iodated salt per 1000 litres of pond water. I recommend buying a salt meter so that you can measure the salinity at any given time – without a meter it is very difficult to control salt concentrations.
• If you have sick fish and they are not recovering after using salt then you will need to use a stronger medication. This is when using salt becomes a problem because it can react negatively with some of the other treatments: both malachite green and formalin, two common medications, do not mix well with salt.
• Using salt can be harmful to your pond plants – it can cause them to turn yellow and even kill them. I recommend removing the plants, especially the free-floating ones, before commencing a salt treatment.
• Salt can be corrosive; it can even cause corrosion in metallic features around your pond.
• An overdose of salt reverses the osmotic pressure between the koi and the water and this can kill the koi. This happens because they release too much water and they die of dehydration.
• If salt is added directly to a filter the sudden rise in the salinity kills the beneficial bacteria in the bio-filter.
• If the salt concentration remains high for an extended period of time then certain pathogens can build up a resistance to it, making it ineffective for treating those illnesses in future.

Many experience koi keepers recommend these two ways to use salt when quarantining new koi.

Option A

Disinfect the koi by placing them in a salt dip for five minutes at a dosage of 1 kg of coarse salt to every 30 to 50 litres of water. Thereafter, move them to a quarantine pond filled with fresh water that has been de-chlorinated and is the same temperature and pH. Add an antibacterial medication at a low dose for one week, then add an anti-parasite treatment to reduce the parasite load. Leave the koi in quarantine for four weeks to make sure they are healthy before you introduce them to your main koi collection.

Option B

To eradicate salt-susceptible parasites set up a hospital or quarantine pond, using a separate pond or porta pool. Use an air pump and make sure lots of air is being pumped into the water (this is especially critical in summer time). Add salt at a rate of 3 kg per 1000 litres of water and leave the koi to swim in the salted pool for seven to 14days to eradicate the parasites.

If this article has piqued your interest and you are considering using salt then additional reading will be necessary. Apart from the information in the koi books I recommended in December 2009, it is well worth paying the following website a visit: www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/salt.htm. {

Sources consulted:

http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/salt.htm

http://www.koiandponds.com/salt.htm

Article written by Angela Beckx of Koi @ Jungle. Contact Angela on 031 2098781 or visit: www.rs02-pta.za-dns.com/~koikzn. Koi @ Jungle also stocks swimming pool products and equipment.

let the fun begin!

Your pond is in and the dust has settled; here’s how to prepare and plan for the new additions to the family.

Everything else is done and you are busy filling your pond with water, but before you actually bring home some koi or even goldfish, take some time to brush up on the basics. I have heard sad tales of excited pond owners adding too many fish too soon, and being greeted by less than half of them the next morning, the rest having succumbed to toxic wastes in the water. You can avoid the common mistakes and make your fish-keeping pleasant and fulfilling by following the tips and advice that seasoned koi-keepers willingly share.

Preparing the Water

Once the pond is full, the pH of the water must be tested. You can buy a test kit or take a sample of water to your nearest koi store and ask them to test it for you. The pH must be between 7.2 and 8.5. Water in different areas has slightly different pH levels – if you find you have very alkaline water then you can add some acid to bring down the pH to an acceptable level. If the water is very acidic then you can add bicarbonate of soda at 1 cup per 4 000 litres of water. Keep adding bicarb until the pH reaches an acceptable level.

De-chlorinators

Tap water contains chlorine and chloramines, which are harmful to all fish. You can sort out this potential problem within minutes by neutralising the chlorine and chloramines with a de-chlorinator. Most de-chlorinating products treat both chlorine as well as chloramines, and getting rid of the chloramines normally just requires a double dose. Simply check the product labels before you buy.

Filtration and aeration

Make sure you purchase a filter that is big enough to provide adequate filtration for the volume of water your pond will hold as well the number of fish you plan to keep. You will avoid frustration and disappointment if you remember that biological filters are not able to work instantly – it takes six to eight weeks for the filter to mature and work effectively. Ammonia and nitrites, which are produced by metabolizing fish and organic matter, are toxic to fish and thus must be controlled, which is why you need a bio-filter. Once established, the bacteria in the filter convert the ammonia to nitrite and then into nitrate, which is less toxic to fish. The filter must run continually because the bacteria die if they are deprived of the flow of oxygen-rich water. In addition to this, the water must also be constantly aerated. This benefits both the bacteria and the fish and can be achieved with air pumps, venturis and features such as the water chute that was included in the pond installation elsewhere in this issue. Even when the filter is working effectively you will need to change a percentage of the pond water on a regular basis. It is best to do small water changes more often (as opposed to leaving it too long and then having to do a major change), and there are test kits available that indicate when it is necessary.

Pond maintenance

It is best to clean the filter foams every week to keep them effective and to prevent the filter from clogging up (as that would prevent the water from flowing back to the pond). The bio-balls or other media at the bottom of the filter do not need to be cleaned that often – every few months will do. The media is where the good bacteria become established and after cleaning it you have to give the bacteria time to re-grow. In smaller ponds, including most of the pre-formed fibreglass ponds, there are no bottom drains and therefore organic and inorganic debris accumulates on the floor of the pond. Siphoning it off from time-to-time cleans the pond and removes the organic waste that would otherwise contaminate the water as it decomposes.

Introducing fish

Once you have seen to the items already discussed you are ready to start with the most rewarding part: introducing the fish. With smaller ponds one begins by introducing between two to four fish for the first two weeks, thereafter bringing in more. The two most important factors in this process are to let the fish become acclimatized to the water in your pond by following the steps set out below, and avoiding spilling any of the water from the koi bag into your pond.

Step 1

The koi shop will place your fish in a plastic bag with sufficient water to keep them comfortable. As soon as you arrive home place the sealed bag in the pond and let it float around, allowing the temperature of the water in the bag to equalize with that of the pond water.

Step 2

After 20 minutes have elapsed open the bag, estimate how much water it contains and add an amount equivalent to 30% from the pond, then retie the elastic band. The pH level in a pond will often be higher than the pH level in the bag and this process helps cushion the shock the fish would otherwise experience if they were put straight into the pond.

Step 3

Put the bag back in the pond and allow it to float around for another 10 minutes.

Step 4

Remove the bag, untie it and take the koi out of the bag with a sock net or your hands. Discard the bag and the old water – do not add it to the pond as it may contain high levels of ammonia.

Step 5

Keep a close eye on your new fish. Koi tend to jump a lot when they are first placed in a new pond, so you may want to place some shade cloth or netting over the pond for the first night or while you are unable to watch them, to prevent them landing outside of the pond.

Step 6

Enjoy interacting with your fish and remember: if you care for them meticulously these new family members may even outlive you. In Japan, where keepers are fanatical about their fish, the average lifespan of a koi is 70 years, but they can live for centuries. {

2010 Koi Shows

24 and 25 July: Lake Eland Game Reserve KwaZulu-Natal Koi Show, at Gateway Theatre of Shopping (Parkade C) in Umhlanga.

14 and 15 August: Eastern Cape show, venue to be advised.

28 and 29 August: Western Cape show, venue to be advised.

Article written by Angela Beckx of Koi @ Jungle. Contact Angela on 031 209 8781 or visit: www.rs02-pta.za-dns.com/~koikzn. Koi @ Jungle also stocks swimming pool products and equipment.

Oxygen plays a very important role in keeping you koi health and happy. Often oxygen is not given the correct amount of attention from koi keepers.
Oxygen requirements for you koi differ according to the area in which you live and the temperature. The warmer your temperature and the higher your altitude will mean you need to supply your koi with more oxygen.

Koi require 6mg/l of oxygen in the water for good growth and health. To achieve this you need to make sure you have a good pump running into your biological filter as well as having a Venturi or air pump with multiple air stones leading into different areas of the pond. You should have your pump, sucking water from the one side of the pond and returning the water to the opposite side of the pond. This is to make sure you do not have any dead spots in your pond, where you may lack oxygen. Oxygen is used by a lot of living components in a koi pond. These components are: Koi fish, bacteria in the biological filter, plant life, organic matter as well as your undesired algae in your pond.
Often water plants are bought under the impression that they will give your fish oxygen. The plants use the carbon dioxide for photosynthesis and release oxygen back into the water in the day, but at night the process is reversed and plants compete for the available oxygen with your koi. This is why it is so important not to place your koi pumps on to timers, like a swimming pool pump as the oxygen levels become very low and you have very unhappy koi as well as a biological filtration system that does not run at full capacity as it is starved of oxygen.

Koi use up oxygen when they feed, when they spawn as well as when they are stressing and not well. As the water temperature rises in the pond, more oxygen is used as the fish become more active. That is why in summer you will get the best growth from your koi as they are more active and therefore eat more food. You can increase their food you give them and feed them 3 times a day if you are able to. As koi have a small stomach, it is best to feed them small amounts often, rather than a whole lot of food at one meal. You must remember to do regular maintenance of your mechanical and biological filters. This is to keep your organic matter to a minimum as oxygen is consumed when organic matter is decomposing.

Angela Beckx
Koi @ Jungle

The good news about green water caused by algae is that it will not harm your koi. In fact, the koi will feed on the tiny animals that feed on the algae, which can help to brighten their colours. Of course, the bad news is that you will miss out on those bright colours because you will barely be able to see your koi through the murky water. Being unable to see your koi can also have other, more sinister repercussions: you are not able to observe their behaviour, so you won’t know if they are acting out of sorts (an indicator that they are unwell) and you also aren’t able to see if they have sustained injuries or developed skin ailments.

Green water is a result of a proliferation (a ‘bloom’) of microscopic algae that contain chlorophyll (the green photosynthetic pigment). Ponds that have very low concentrations of ammonia and nitrite combined with very high levels of nitrate are most susceptible to algae problems. The nitrate is a powerful fertiliser and algae thrive when nitrate abounds. To reduce nitrate levels in your pond you can do small water changes on a weekly basis. Be sure to de-chlorinate the tap water that you use to replace the water you remove.

The fight against green water is ongoing and requires diligence, but the following can help tremendously:

1. When you build or install a koi pond (or water feature) ensure that it gets only partial sun because algae need sunlight to grow. Also, consider building your pond so that there is a section where you can plant lots of water plants without the koi having access to them. The plants will help to block out some sunlight in that section of the pond. (Sunlight is good for koi in that it makes their colours bold and bright, but it becomes a problem if the koi are unable to escape the harsh rays. Providing some shade reduces the risk of the koi developing skin cancer.)

2. The ultraviolet light emitted by the tube in a UV filter kills algae, so a UV filter is a must for every pond. Ensure that the size of your UV filter and pump are compatible – the right combination will clear green water in a few days.

3. Ensure that you have a good filtration system and that it is functioning efficiently. It will reduce the toxic wastes in your pond and there will thus be less for the algae to feed on. The bigger the filtration system you install, the better your water clarity will be.

4. Use fish-friendly algaecides (algae-killing products). With most of the products you can alternate between a full dose and a half dose (usually once a week).

If you don’t have a UV filter and decide not to use algaecides it can take months for green water to clear in a newly established pond. Even after the initial algal bloom subsides your pond will still go green from time to time.

Different types of algae

Along with the free-floating algal cells that cause the water to go green during an algae bloom (and which are the easiest to remedy with UV and algaecides) there are two other types of algae that koi keepers may notice, namely filamentous algae and the velvet-like algae that grows on surfaces in the pond.

· Filamentous algae (also called blanket weed)

Filamentous algae take a number of forms – they can be long and stringy, short and furry, or in the shape of webs or mats. Filamentous algae are found mostly near or on the surfaces that form waterfalls and shallow steams within ponds. It is in these areas that the sunlight is most intense, providing the heat and light that create the ideal conditions for algal growth. Filamentous algae are the hardest to combat and algaecides are usually most successful. These types of algae are not controlled by UV filters because the strands tend not to pass through the filter.

· Short velvet-like algae

The algae that grows on the surfaces in the pond and makes them look like they are covered in velvet is beneficial to the pond and it is necessary to ‘make peace’ with it. You can never get rid of it for long and nor should you want to. Initially it may scare you as its growth will be uneven and patchy in a new pond, however, after a few weeks it evens out and looks good. It gives the pond surfaces a natural appearance, does not cloud the water and does not interfere with viewing your koi. It uses nutrients from the water (making them unavailable for less welcome algae), generates oxygen during the day and gives the koi something to nibble on. {

Article written by Angela Beckx of Koi @ Jungle. Contact Angela on 031 2098781 or visit: www.rs02-pta.za-dns.com/~koikzn. Koi @ Jungle also stocks swimming pool products and equipment.

By Angela Beckx

Is your pond water good or bad for your koi? Good water quality is necessary to keep your fish alive, healthy and happy, so it’s essential to ask yourself this very important question often, instead of only when your koi start looking ill. It’s easy to become complacent about water quality if you haven’t had problems, while those new to koi keeping may wonder why they should test their pond water at all if their koi look well – for both these reasons I discuss water quality fairly regularly.

If the variety and apparent complexity of testing kits has scared you off in the past then I urge you to revisit the subject. The tests that will help you to determine whether your pond water is good or bad can be bought at all koi stores and most pet shops. Look for test kits that are simple and easy-to-use and come with colour charts that you can understand. Many of the shops that sell the kits will also test water for a nominal fee and the results will be accompanied by instructions for correcting any problems that have been identified. You need four test kits; one to determine the pH of the water, one to test levels of ammonia, one for nitrite and one for nitrate.

1. pH

The pH level is a measure of the acidity of or alkalinity of a substance. The ideal range for koi pond water is between 7.2 and 8.5.

Too acidic?

If you test your pond water and find the pH is below 7.2 then the water is two acidic. To increase the pH level (and thus correct the problem) you can add bicarbonate of soda to the water or place crushed coral in the pond. A low pH can cause fish mortalities as well as rendering the biological filter inefficient because the bacteria cannot function well in acidic water.

Too alkaline?

Alkaline pond water often occurs in new ponds that have a cement finish or have been marble plastered because the lime in the cement leaches into the water. A number of water changes or backwashes will usually correct the pH to an acceptable level. If the fish are swimming and eating with no signs of stress at a high pH level then I would leave the water to settle down on its own. If the pH is very high then adding peat moss to the pond is the safest way to reduce the alkalinity. Only experts should use acid to reduce the pH level and then only if the fish are reacting negatively to the high pH. This method in the hands of the uninitiated can be very dangerous for the fish.

1. Ammonia

Testing for ammonia tells you how much dissolved organic matter and fish waste the water contains. This test is especially important in newly built ponds, as it indicates when to perform water changes. Unfortunately in the first eight weeks of the life of a new pond the ammonia levels climb very high because the beneficial bacteria in the biological filters take time to multiply and become effective. The most desirable reading for ammonia is zero. When the ammonia readings become too high then reduce or stop feeding the koi for a few days. Also perform a 30 to 50% water change (depending on how high the ammonia levels are) and add a biological booster to the filter to speed up the growth of the good bacteria.

Nitrite

Nitrite is a by-product of the bacterial breakdown of ammonia. While nitrite is slightly less toxic than ammonia, it is still very harmful to fish and you again want to avoid levels above zero. Nitrites are easily transported across the gills of the koi and then absorbed by the blood. This is dangerous because the nitrites react with the haemoglobin and reduce the oxygen-carrying capacity of the blood. High nitrite levels cause koi to become very stressed, which in turn makes them susceptible to bacterial and fungal diseases. If you test your nitrite levels weekly while your pond is settling in then you will be in a position to perform water changes to reduce the nitrite levels before problems arise.

Nitrate

Nitrate levels will continuously increase in your koi pond environment as a result of the nitrification process that occurs in your biological filtration system. Nitrate is less toxic than both ammonia and nitrite, however, it must not exceed 150 to 200 milligrams per litre. I recommend setting up a routine of doing regular small water changes so that the level of nitrates never builds up. A strategy of leaving the water for longer and then doing a substantial water change means that algae is likely to proliferate because it feeds off nitrate, so avoid this.

Once you get into a routine of testing your pond water regularly and of correcting any problems you encounter then you can be more confident that you are providing an environment where your koi can flourish. {

Article written by Angela Beckx of Koi @ Jungle. Contact Angela on 031 209 8781 or visit: www.rs02-pta.za-dns.com/~koikzn. Koi @ Jungle also stocks swimming pool products and equipment.

Aquaboost
Aquaboost contains aerobic and anaerobic bacteria and is used to speed up the maturing of a biological filter. A filter for a new pond will usually take about six to eight weeks to mature if there is biological activity (such as fish) in the pond and using Aquaboost will hasten this process. When using Aquaboost in a new system add 5g per cubic metre of water that will be filtered. For general enhancement of filter systems add 1gram per cubic metre of water every week.

Interpret Easy test kit
I would definitely recommend that all Koi and fish keepers have a test kit at home. The ‘crystal clear’ water in a pond can be very deceptive – fish keepers often assume that when pond water looks clear the water quality is good and when the water is pea green it must be ‘bad’. This is not necessarily the case and a test kit will allow you to determine how your pond is actually faring. If your fish look unwell, the first thing you need to do is test the water. The levels of ammonia, nitrites or nitrates in the water may be to high or the ph level may be incorrect and any one of these imbalances will lead to sick fish and even fatalities, hence the need for a test kit so that one is able to check these levels. The actions necessary to correct these problems are explained below:
Ammonia – this is primarily a metabolic waste product that is excreted from the gills of the fish. It also comes from excess feeding and decomposed organic matter. If a test reveals a high level of ammonia, you will need to stop feeding for a short while and, depending on how high the level is, change about 50% of the water in the pond. After a day or so you need to retest and, if necessary, change a bit more. Please remember to use a de-chlorinating agent to neutralize chlorine and chloramines.
Nitrite – Nitrosomonas bacteria oxidize ammonia into nitrites. If the nitrites are high you will need to change the water in the pond. It is common in a new system for the nitrite levels to be high however once the filter matures these levels should drop.
Nitrates – in a pond Nitrate levels continuously increase due to the nitrification process taking place in the bio filter. To keep the level under control, it is necessary to do small but regular water changes.
PH – Koi like a ph level of between 7.2 and 8.5 and they become very unhappy if the ph level in their pond drops below 7. They will not eat and can die if the ph is not corrected fast enough. To increase the ph level in the pond bicarbonate of soda should be added to the water.
The Interpret Easy test kit comes in a neat box with all four tests and instructions on their use.

Woundmed
Woundmed is a topical treatment for wounds, ulcers and fungal diseases. It contains natural ingredients to promote rapid tissue regeneration and has been tested for over three years and is producing good results. To apply Woundmed you need first to anaesthetize the Koi, then clean the wound and blot it dry, after which the Woundmed can be sprayed on. After allowing it to dry for a few seconds the Koi is then placed back into the pond. After seven days the process is repeated and healing is usually noticeable within three to five days. Woundmed is very successful when the ulcer is starting and the wound is superficial however, if the wound is deep, an antibiotic injection is recommended.

Finmed
This medicine is a topical treatment for infections and lesions on fins, split fins and fungal infections on fins. It is very useful for fins that have been damaged by netting injuries (although it is preferable to avoid these injuries in the first place by using the correct net when catching your Koi).

Koi @ Jungle’s Filter Media
Very effective in biological filters, this media is non-toxic and low maintenance, with a very high surface area to weight ratio, making it extremely cost effective. It is ideal for D.I.Y pond builders.

By Angela Beckx

The sheer size to which some koi grow is awe-inspiring, and the quest to grow and own the biggest koi in the world is the ultimate goal of some koi collectors. Koi can grow to over a metre in length, with the mono-coloured koi, rather than those that are tri-coloured, reaching the larger sizes. The relationship between pattern and size is due to genetic interaction that, more often than not, makes high-grade koi and jumbo size mutually exclusive characteristics. It is for this reason that the largest koi in a collection is most often a Chagoi, which is a tea-coloured koi, and usually the drabbest.

So, how can you ‘supersize’ the koi in your koi pond? Well, unfortunately, you cannot influence the genetic makeup of your koi, but you can maximise their growth by managing their diet and the environment you provide for them. It pays to bear in mind that with koi keeping bigger is always better, whether it is pond size, filtration size or even koi size. When in doubt always buy the biggest and best you can afford!

DIET

Feeding your koi top quality koi food that has a protein level of 40% or more, combined with a good mix of carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals, will increase their size dramatically. In addition, from time-to-time, spoil them with treats like prawns, oranges, earthworms, fresh lettuce leaves and bloodworm. Many smaller meals throughout the day will be more effective than one large meal, all at once. Koi have small stomachs and thus prefer smaller amounts more often. You can use the ten minute rule to work out if you are feeding a reasonable quantity: if they have eaten all the food in the pond after ten minutes then you are feeding them correctly. If there is food left behind after ten minutes then remove it and the next time you feed reduce the quantity of food. Another method is to feed the equivalent of approximately 6% of the bodyweight of the koi, per day. Make sure you monitor how your koi are going as you do not want them growing too quickly and ending up with potbellies. Often the tamest koi in a collection with be the largest one because it is a food lover (even more so than the average koi) and so will always be the one that comes to say hello, in the hope of getting more food.

ENVIRONMENT

· Stocking levels

An overstocked pond has a negative effect on the growth rate of the koi in it. This is why it is so important to build the biggest koi pond possible, making it possible to keep all the varieties of koi you desire, without the pond becoming overcrowded. With fewer koi there is less competition during feeding times and, because they do not have to fight for food, their stress levels remain lower.

· Water temperature

Koi are cold blooded, but they are warm water fish. Studies have shown that pond water kept at 27⁰C for around nine hours per day results in higher growth rates in the koi in that pond. For this reason summertime is the best time to feed your koi top quality food; they gain the most benefit from the food, using it all for growth, because of the optimum water temperature. Under these conditions a one-year-old koi can easily double its length in summertime.

· Water quality and air pumps

The best filtration systems give you excellent water chemistry, with low levels of organic wastes and dirt. This represents a stress free environment for the koi and lets them grow faster. Using air pumps also influences the growth rate in koi: tests show that koi convert their food into body tissue far more efficiently when dissolved oxygen in the pond is at its highest. High levels of dissolved oxygen enable the beneficial bacteria housed in the bio-filter to be at their most efficient in converting ammonia to nitrites and nitrates. Conversely, low oxygen levels result in suppression of the population of good bacteria which then allows ammonia and nitrite to increase to stressful or even potentially lethal concentrations in the koi pond. So, to avoid these problems and help your koi grow to enormous proportions I reiterate what I said earlier: make sure that the filtration system and air pumps you install are the biggest and best that you can afford.

Article written by Angela Beckx of Koi @ Jungle. Contact Angela on 031 2098781 or visit: www.rs02-pta.za-dns.com/~koikzn. Koi @ Jungle also stocks swimming pool products and equipment.