Hardkernel’s Jelly Beans aren’t the freshest beans going around, still Android 4.1 isn’t exactly the most stale version of Android. More than 60.7% of android users are running Honeycomb, Android 3.x, API level 11 – 13, or earlier. The majority, 47.4%, of users are still running some version of Gingebread, Android 2.3.x API level 9 – 10.

By todays standards, given the speed at which technology and innovation moves, Honeycomb has crystallised, Gingerbread is stale and possibly starting to grow mould.

If you want some fresher jelly beans for your Odroud U2 Android computer then you are in luck, CyanogenMod has some fresh Android 4.2.2 love for your Odroid U2.

Although CM 10.1 for the Odroid U2 may be super fresh there are no stable builds for it yet, nor is there even an RC. The most stable build is a Monthly Snapshot build released on 11/04/2013. Another bigger problem is that CM 10.1 for the Odroid U2 has no Ethernet support.

If you want a fresher version than v4.1 of Android on your Odroid U2 and are feeling brave, or aren’t bothered by the lack of Ethernet support then give CM 10.1 a go.

Based on Samsungs 1.7GHz Exynos4412 Prime Cortex-A9 Quad-core processor, with a Mali-400 GPU, 2 GB of RAM and plenty of storage and connectivity options, the Odroid U2 is the perfect bit of kit for building an Android HTPC.

Although it’s quite easy to build an Android HTPC using Hardkerenels Odroid U2 there are a few things that should be noted if you want to build an Android HTPC based on Hardkernels Odroid U2.

1) If you choose an eMMC Module for storage (I highly recommend it, it’s a lot faster than a Micro SD card) the eMMC chip will come with an adapter which is basically a small PCB that you connect the eMMC chip to and insert into a MicroSD card reader so that you can read/write to the eMMC chip. Not all MicroSD card readers will work with the eMMC adapter. The problem is that the adapter is a little bit to big and doesn’t sit in some MicroSD card readers properly. It can be filed down to fit properly but filing down the adapter so it fits into a MicroSD card reader doesn’t always work. The adpter does work and I can verify that the Transcend P5 Multi Card Reader does work with the eMMC adapter.

2) You will need to buy additional extras like storage (an eMMC chip and/or a Micro SD card), a wireless adapter if you want to connect the Android HTPC to your network via your Wi-Fi network, a HDMI and USB cable. The 5V/2A power adaptor is also an additional expense and only comes with a plug compatible for EU / US / Japan / Korea so you will need to shell out extra for an AU power adapter.

Both the eMMC and Micro SD card come with Android 4.x pre installed so you can have the Odroid U2 running straight out of the box. Although if you want the latest version of Hardkernel’s Android fork you may have to flash it which is dead easy given that the Odroid U2 is already pre rooted. I strongly recommend updating to the latest version of Android for the Odroid-U2 to fix bugs in older builds.

Installing XBMC on the Odroid U2couldn’t be easier. Once you have your Odroid U2 connected to the internet open up the browser and point it to the XBMC download page and choose the Android version of XBMC then download and run the XBMC APK package and in less than 5 minutes you will have an Android HTPC.

After installing XBMC there are a few other apps that you may want to install but Google’s Play store isn’t pre installed on the Odroid U2 because Hardkernel aren’t allowed to include it by default since the Odroid U2 hasn’t been certified by Google. You will have to install the Play store by hand.

After you have the Play store installed I’d recommend installing a few apps like full!screen which does what it says on the metaphorical box, it runs apps in full screen sans task bar. Another useful app worth installing is Startup Manager (or some other boot/start-up manager), you can use it to boot into XMBC auto-magically when you boot your Android HTPC.

You can use any USB keyboard and mouse to control your Android HTPC but it’s not terribly convenient to perform tasks with a wired USB keyboard and mouse when your sitting on the couch. I’d recommend getting an air mouse & wireless keyboard, it will make controlling your Android HTPC from the couch a lot more comfortable and convenient.

Given it’s size the Odroid U2 packs a mighty impressive punch with it’s Samsung Exynos4412 Prime CPU, a Cortex-A9 Quad Core CPU clocked @ 1.7Ghz (68x faster than my first PC which was a 486 DX4 @ 100MHz), with 2 GB of ram (128x more RAM than my first PC), and a Mali-400 Quad Core GPU @ 440MHz. Storage options come in the form of a microSD card and an eMMC connector to which you can plugin an 8, 16, or 64 GB eMMC chip. I sprung for the 64GB eMMC module which alone gives me more than 75x more storage space than the 850 GB HDD in my first PC (the afore mentioned 486 DX4), which by today’s standards is positively infinitesimal.

The Odroid U2 is intended as an Android development platform for programmers that want to develop Android applications. But I have other plans in store for this pint sized beast. Instead I’m going to set it up as a streaming HTPC.

I have had the unit for a few weeks now and have had a chance to play with it and my initial impressions have been pretty good so far. Although it’s not perfect, there are a few bugs, things to work out, to do and setup. For example the device comes with only a handful of applications installed and doesn’t come with the Google Play store pre-installed. I also found that the desktop is slightly larger than the screen.

One thing that you should be aware of is that the eMMC reader isn’t compatible some MicroSD card readers. The eMMC reader is a MicroSD card adapter that you plug the eMMC chip onto then you plug it into any regular microSD card reader. Apparently the adapter is a little bit to big and doesn’t sit in some MicroSD card readers properly. I’m not the only one that was having issues with the eMMC adapter, there were a few people on the Hardkernel forum complaining that they had the same issue. Although there were reports that the adapter does work with some MicroSD card readers like Trust’s Stello Mini Card Reader and Transcend’s P5 card reader. I ended up purchasing a Transcend P5 card reader which I can confirm does work with the eMMC adapter/reader.

After setting up my Odroid-U2 the first thing I did was install XBMC on it. Installing XBMC is even easier than installing a game or app from the play store. Simply point the browser to the .APK on the XBMC web site, save it then run the APK and after a minute XBMC is installed. XBMC performed rather well, I fond it to be nice and smooth and the few plugins that I did install installed and worked without any problems. YouTube was one of the plugins I installed worked perfectly, HD videos played flawlessly.

At the time I received my Odroid-U2 I hadn’t received my Mele F10 wireless air mouse and keyboard remote, not that it mattered because a normal USB keyboard an mouse works perfectly with the Odroid-U2, except that it will use both of the USB ports.

There’s still things to do like fix the resolution so the Desktop fits the screen properly, root my Odroid-U2 so I can install the Play store, test apps, and remote controls etc… Expect a full write up and guide on setting up Hardkernel’s Odroid-U2 for use as a HTPC.

Smart phones and tablets

If you have a smart phone or tablet (namely an Android, Windows or other type of smart phone or tablet) then there is an app or two, or there or more for that will let you control your HTPC. Remote control apps are usually either free or inexpensive, i.e. cheaper than a dedicated remote control or a wireless keyboard and mouse.

Two highly recommended remote apps are Unified Remote and Ceton’s Companion app which will let you control WMC from your smart device. However there are smart phone apps for other media centre software solutions like XBMC and Media Portal, just run a search in your platforms app store for “ remote”.

The advantage of using smart phone/tablet apps to control your HTPC is that they let you use something you already have to control your media centre, they are relatively cheap or free, and are easy to use.

Smart phone apps are akin to single device remotes in that they only let you control one device, i.e. your HTPC or an application on your HTPC. There are solutions like ThinkFlood’s RedEye remote, iRule’s iRule hardware and software solutions, and AMAC’s plugin module for smart phones and tablets that can turn your smart device into a universal remote. Although the disadvantage is that you will have to purchase extra hardware which isn’t cheap, but then neither are some universal remote controls.

Voice control

One of the more exotic ways of controlling your HTPC is with your voice. There are a few ways to control Windows Media Centre with your voice, you may be able to control other media centre software with your voice, just ask your favourite search engine “how to control with your voice”.

If you have Windows 7 you can use it’s built in voice recognition and a mic to set up voice commands to emulate shortcuts. For example you could use a voice command “go to guide” to emulate the “CTRL+G” short cut to take you to the TV guide. This option is the cheapest option, only requiring a mic if you don’t already have one, but will take some time and a little effort to set up. If you don’t have Windows 7 then you may need to purchase voice control software like Dragon Dictate naturally Speaking to enable you to control your HTPC with your voice.

Alternatively Amulet Devices have a remote with a built in mic that can be used to issue voice commands to Windows Media Centre. If you are looking at purchasing a remote and want voice control the Amulet Voice Remote is worth a look.

Another option is Microsoft’s Kinect for Windows which supports voice and gesture input. However at $299 the Kinect is a prohibitively expensive input device for controlling your HTPC. If you want to control your HTPC with gestures there are other cheaper options.

Motion control

Probably the most exotic and the newest way to control a HTPC is with gestures. Gesture based input is still relatively new and is still developing. There are a handful of hardware and software solutions which are at different stages of development. Some companies like GestureTek, eyeSight, and PointGrab have chosen to tray and crack the device manufacturer market by selling technology licenses to manufacturers who can then integrate their solutions into their products. Other solutions like Flutter, Neuro Technologys Npointer, and HandVu all offer software solutions with the only additional hardware needed is a web cam.

Then there are hardware solutions like Microsoft’s Kinect and the Leap Motion Controller. Kinect for Media Centre is an inexpensive a software solution software that allows you to use Microsofts Kinect to control Windows Media Centre with gestures. While this might be a great way to interact with and control your HTPC it’s not the cheapest option, the Kinect for Media Centre software only sells for $6.99 but at $299 the cost of Kinect hardware excludes it as a viable solution.

Unfortunately only Microsoft’s Kinect is available right now, however there may be another much cheaper, and better by all accounts, alternative soon. Leap Motions motion controller is similar to Microsofts Kinect except better, apparently and from what I have seen I’d be inclined to agree. The Leap motion hardware is said to be “200 times more accurate than anything else on the market” and can track individual finger movements to 1/100th of a millimetre. At $70 it’s an inexpense way to control your HTPC with gestures from the couch. I have pre ordered a controller and will experiment with using it to control Windows Media Centre when I get my hands on it. It certainly looks like a promising bit of kit.

Mind control isn’t an option… yet, maybe it will be one day but for now I think that there are enough ways to control your HTPC from the comfort of the couch.

Have I missed any other ways of controlling a HTPC? Share your favourite method(s) for controlling your HTPC by leaving a comment below.

For everyday use a keyboard and mouse isn’t the best option. Most of the time you will just be pointing and clicking to change the channel/volume, for muting the sound, for selecting which recorded shows you want to watch, which shows you want to record etc… A keyboard and mouse is not only more cumbersome it requires more effort and isn’t as ergonomic or as comfortable to use as other options.

Having said that you will still most definitely need a keyboard and, unless you are some sort of keyboard ninja, a mouse because at some point you will have to use a keyboard and mouse for something else other than just pointing and clicking, like during the initial set up of your HTPC, for installing plugins or new applications, for Windows updates, for fixing any problems that you might encounter while the PC is booting i.e. to fix problems before you get into Windows or to change BIOS settings etc… Although you might not use a keyboard and mouse much they will come in extremely useful when need them.

Wired keyboard and mice are great for gaming PCs but not for a HTPC, when you’re trying to control a HTPC that is across the room USB cables are too short, unsightly, besides even if the cables were long enough they would likely become a tripping hazard.

Wireless keyboard and mice are a better option for controlling your HTPC. But your normal wireless keyboard and mouse isn’t always the most comfortable to use depending on your set up or preference. Additionally not all mice work on any surface, for example not all mice track well or at all on glass without a mouse mat, so if you have a glass table top then you will need a mouse mat or a mouse that will track on glass.

Probably the best solution is to purchase a keyboard with an integrated touch pad, like the touch pads you see on laptops. These types of keyboards are a better solution for controlling a HTPC with a keyboard and mouse. There are plenty of excellent wireless keyboards with built in touch pads like Logitechs K400 which make it easier to control your HTPC from across the room. If the Logitech K400 is a bit too big for you then Rii tek’s RT-MWK03 might be just the thing for you.

I could list a whole heap of keyboards with integrated touch pads but that would be pretty boring, just ask your favourite search engine to find you some “wireless touchpad keyboards”.

Remote controls

A remote control makes a lot more sense for everyday HTPC control, it makes common tasks like changing the channel and volume, basic up/down/left/right navigation and clicking a lot easier. Additionally a remote takes up less space, is easier, more ergonomic, and a lot more comfortable to use than a traditional keyboard and mouse.

There are two types of remote controls, your standard remote which only controls a single device and universal remotes which can control multiple devices (how many devices it can control depends on the remote itself) like your HTPC, TV, A/V receiver, and any other other bits of kit that you might have that use IR.

Remotes are readily available and range from so cheap your bank account/financial controller wont notice, like the Logitech Harmony 200, to the super expensive take a loan out to buy one type of remotes, like the Logitech Harmony 1100i Advanced Universal Remote.

One down side of a remote is that most use IR to communicate with a PC ergo your PC will need to have an IR receiver. Some high end HTPC chassis like the 2800HP from A-Tech Fabrication, and some of Streacom’s chassis come with an optional IR receiver. Some of the better TV tuner cards like Digital Now’s DNTV Dual Hybrid (7164) HD TV tuner card come with a compatible IR receiver, as do some remotes like like Hauppauge’s MCE Remote Control Kit. However not all cases, remotes, and TV tuner cards come bundled with an IR receiver which means you will have to purchase an IR receiver like FLIRC or USB-UIRT. An IR receiver is an additional expense they are relatively cheap and are well worth the investment.

Come back tomorrow for part two, I’ll be exploring some more exotic and fun ways to control your HTPC.

I haven’t received the hardware yet, the web site advises that “Shipment Schedule : in 7 working days from your purchasing.”, so I haven’t had a chance to play with it yet but from what I already know this is what I think it’s strengths and weaknesses will be.

Strengths

• Small foot print and low power consumption

If you have one that is smaller than everyone else’s you wouldn’t usually brag about it unless you’re talking about your HTPC. People are obsessed by size and always want something that is smaller and faster, this build will tick those two check boxes. The PCB measures a tiny 48 x 52 mm or roughly half the size of a credit card. It will also consume less power than a normal HTPC thanks to the ultra low power requirements and high power efficiency of the hardware used in this build.

• Low cost and Great per dollar performance

The first PC I ever had (it was actually the family PC but I used it the most) was a 386 SX @ 66 MHz, with 4 MB (yes mega bytes) of RAM, a 300 MB HDD, and it ran Windows 3.11. At the time it was a beast and IIRC it cost over $3K. The hardware used for this build is a lot faster and more powerful in orders of magnitude, it will have more memory and storage, it will have a better display than the first PC I had. Best of all it will cost considerably less than the first PC I had. The performance per a dollar that you will get from this build will be hard to match or beat. It’s bat sh!t crazy how far hardware has progressed in a relatively short amount of time and how cheap it has become. I always find it amazing that the phone I have is 10x faster, has more RAM, storage, and a faster internet connection.

This build is going to be a bit more expensive than a low end media streamer but that’s because I have opted for a 64 GB eMMC module, if you opted for a 8 or 16 GB eMMC module then you can bring the cost down. However it’s still going to be cheaper than other high end media streamers and full fat HTPCs.

• Customisable and flexibility

The problem with media streamers is that they aren’t customisable, if you need or want new features you are stuck waiting for new firmware updates that may never come from the manufacturer. Additionally if the remote for your media player gets lost or broken you have no way of using the media player, it becomes an expensive novelty paper weight unless you buy a new remote from the manufacturer (who most likely won’t be shy about charging you an unreasonable price for a new remote) or get a remote (like a universal remote) that works with the unit. Because build is running Android it means that it’s infinity more customisable than any other media player. Games and apps, and anything else the Google Play store offers can be downloaded to this HTPC. If the remote, keyboard, or mouse breaks you can simply get a new one.

• Blissful silence

With no moving parts there is no noise to ruin your favourite movie, TV show or music. A silent HTPC is the holy grail of HTPCs. Many people are obsessed by silence and try to build a completely silent HTPC but fall short. This build is guaranteed to be silent.

Weaknesses

• Not be perfect

But then what is perfect? Is anything ever absolutely undeniably 100% perfect? This isn’t a commercially developed Android HTPC solution, it’s more of a hack than anything else, so some things might not work properly or at all. There are some things you might just never be able to do without a full fat HTPC like watch and record multiple TV channels at once. Because of the hardware used not all apps will work. The hardware doesn’t have GPS, a gyroscope, any phone functions etc… so apps that require the afore mentioned bits of hardware just won’t work. But then a tablet doesn’t have any phone features and people love those things so the missing hardware probably won’t be missed because it won’t be used anyway even if this build had a GPS there wouldn’t be any use for it since the HTPC doesn’t go anywhere ergo a GPS would be pointless and drive up the cost of the hardware.

• No built in Bluetooth or 802.11x Wireless connectivity

The lack of built in Bluetooth or 802.11x Wireless connectivity means that you will have to use USB Bluetooth and Wireless adapters which will occupy the only 2 USB ports. However you could get around this limitation by using a USB hub if you need more USB connectivity.

• Not easily repairable or upgradeable

Unlike full fat HTPCs if a part of the hardware dies like the USB ports, the CPU, RAM, GPU, ethernet port etc… you will have to purchase a whole new unit (the same applies to media players) instead of just replacing the defective part. Additionally you won’t be able to upgrade this HTPCs parts like you can with a full fat HTPC, the same applies for media players.

Initial conclusion

If you use a HTPC mostly for streaming media and want more flexibility than a media streamer affords then an Android based HTPC might just be the ultimate HTPC. However if you want a full fat HTPC that can record TV as well as everything else then an Android based HTPC might not be the right solution for you. It will depend on what you need and want from a HTPC as to whether or not an Android based HTPC is going to be the best solution for you.

There are other Android hardware solutions about like the Giada Q11, NEO G4 Android 4.0 Dual-Core Google TV Player, MK808, J&Ws MINIX NEO X5 and their MINIX NEO G4, or the Mele A3700. Those solutions have some advantages but hardware isn’t one of them, the best of any of the afore mentioned solutions only sports a dual core CPU, less storage, and half the RAM that the ODROID-U2 has. Additionally the other solutions are ready made bits of kit which isn’t half the fun of going the DIY rout.

The strength of this build is that it will be the perfect device for streaming media over the network, either your LAN (i.e. from another PC on your home network, or maybe even a NAS), or over the internet. There are plenty of great apps available on the Android platform for streaming audio and video, and with the Google Play store you will have a million more options. The hardware is powerful enough to decode 1080p video and high bit rate audio like FLAC files which is why I imagine that this build will be the ultimate streaming box.

Ultimately this is just a fun DIY experiment to explore what is possible with off the shelf hardware and software to see if it’s possible to build an Android based HTPC that is comparable in price to media streamers and a full fat HTPC while also offering as many full fat HTPC features.

What I do know so far is that the strengths of this Android HTPC far outshine it’s weaknesses. Although the strengths and weaknesses might turn out to be different to what I have predicted but I’ll only know that once I get the hardware, play with it, get the software up and running I’ll have a better idea and I’ll do another write up. So make sure you come back for updates.

For the last 7 months of 2012 the Samsung Galaxy S3 has outsold the iPhone 4S and the iPhone5. Here in Australia 10 million of us have a smart phone, 44% of those are Android powered phones. UK market analyst firm Informa Telecoms and Media expects that in 2015 one out of every two mobile phones world wide will be powered by Android. If that’s not winning then I don’t know what is. Android keeps getting better and better.

What I like about Android most is that it is more open than iOS which means it’s hackable and because it’s hackable all sorts of cool things happen like CyanogenMod, and XBMC for Android. Then there are hardware solutions capable of running Android like the Mini Xplus TV Box, MK808, and development boards like VIAs APC, and the PandaBoard ES that are capable of running Android.

But the coolest hardware I have come across is Hardkernel’s ODROID-X2 and ODROID-U2 because hey are relatively cheap and powerful compared to other hardware like the PandaBoard ES.

After ogling Hardkernel’s ODROID-X2 and ODROID-U2 for a while and thinking about what I could do with one, I decided that it’s a perfect candidate for rolling a DIY Android based HTPC.

So I brought an ODROID-U2 to play and experiment with, the aim is to try and build an awesome Android based HTPC that offers the same, or as many features as possible, that a full fat HTPC can offer.

The ODROID-U2 packs a mighty punch for it’s size, under the hood you will find:

Processor
Samsung Exynos4412 Prime Cortex-A9 Quad Core 1.7Ghz with 1MB L2 cache

Memory
2048MB(2GB) LP-DDR2 880Mega data rate

3D Accelerator
Mali-400 Quad Core 440MHz

Video
supports 1080p via HDMI cable(H.264+AAC based MP4 container format)

Video Out
micro HDMI connector

Audio
Standard 3.5mm headphone jack, Digital Microphone input, HDMI Digital

LAN
10/100Mbps Ethernet with RJ-45 Jack ( Auto-MDIX support)

USB2.0 Host
High speed standard A type connector x 2 ports

USB2.0 Device
ADB/Mass storage(Micro USB)

Storage (Optional)
MicroSD Card Slot
eMMC module socket

Power requirements are an anemic 5V @ 2A.

Case
Aluminium full metal body with heat sink. (59 x 57 x 60 mm)

PCB Size
48 x 52 mm

I also purchased some necessary accessories:

5V/2A power adaptor
Bluetooth module
HDMI Cable (Micro, Type D)
Micro USB cable
WiFi module
64GB eMMC module

Most of the accessories are self explanatory but the 64GB eMMC module might not be a familiar bit of kit. It’s basically storage, it basically a tiny SSD with an eMMC interface. The reason I went for the more expensive eMMC module is because, according to the Hardkernel web site, 200x faster than a MicroSD card. Even if it’s not, if it’s only half as fast then it’s still faster than a MicroSD card.

All up the board and accessories cost $209 USD, shipping was $40 USD. My only gripe apart from the ridiculously high shipping fee is that Hardkernel use PayPal. I usually try to avoid PayPal if I can, if there is another payment method instead of PayPal then I’ll use it because PayPal are thieves when it comes to currency exchange rates. At the current exchange rate, 1.04, $249.00 USD should be ~$237.34 AUD, but PayPal reckon that the exchange rate is 1.01, it ads up if you are purchasing something expensive. After I had paid I ended up paying a total of $246.23 AUD. But I dirges, it would be sufficed to say; avoid using PayPal at all expenses, especially if you are purchasing goods from overseas.

I’ll be keeping and posting my project log here on Kulture so make sure you come back for progress updates if you have ever thought about building your own Android HTPC or wondered if it was possible.

Kulture will be back in 2013 with more of the awesome stuff.

Every part so far Pt I, Pt II, Pt III, Pt IV, Pt V, Pt VI, Pt VII, has covered all the kit that you need to build a sweet super quiet and silent HTPC. By now you should be able to choose the right parts to build your super quiet HTPC. In this last part, Pt VIII I’m going to dispense some bonus tips, references, and resources.

Choose the case first Choosing the case will make it a lot easier to choose the rest of your parts. The case will define what parts you need, i.e. if you choose a mITX case then you know that you will have to choose a mITX motherboard, that you can only use one expansion card and whether you can use a full height expansion card or not, depending on the case it will also dictate whether you can use a 5.25″ ODD or whether you need to use a slim ODD or a slim slot loading ODD, the case will also determine what type of PSU you can use.
If you choose your case last and you have chosen an ATX motherboard and then choose a mATX case you will have to go back and choose another motherboard, in the worst case scenario you may have to reconsider more or all of the parts you have chosen.

After choosing the case, decide which OS or media centre software you want to run. If you are going to go with Windows and WMC then you shouldn’t have any problems choosing hardware. However if you want to go with Linux then you will need to make sure the hardware that you chose is compatible with Linux, i.e. that Linux drivers are available.

The next parts you should choose are the CPU and motherboard as they will be the most important parts that will make or break a good HTPC. If you choose the case first it will make it easier to choose the motherboard because you know what size motherboard(s) you will be able to use.

Remember there is no rush to build your HTPC, take the time to carefully research parts to make sure that they are all compatible, it will make the build a lot easier when it comes to putting the parts together. It will also save you money because you won’t have to replace incompatible parts.
Review web sites like The Tech Report, PC Perspective, and others are a great place for getting the best independent information on the latest tech. Forums are also a great place to find information and ask questions. Many good forums have a section where you can ask for advice on a build, ask about particular hardware, and get general advice.

Lots of good PC hardware forums and home theatre forums have a section for HTPCs, like Home Theatre Forums ‘Computers and HTPC’ section, or there are HTPC specific forums like Australian Media Center Community. Or just ask your favourite search engine about HTPCs and HTPC forums. Some Tech and PC hardware web sites like Engadget and AnandTech have HTPC sections which provide a good source of information, another good source of HTPC specific information is Missing Remote.

I hope that you are inspired to go and build yourself a great HTPC and have heaps of fun in the process, I know I love building HTPCs.

Have you built a HTPC? What do you think about HTPCs? I’d love to hear your thoughts, leave a comment below.

So a quick recap what we have covered so fa in Pt I it was about nailing down what you want from your HTPC, Pt II was about building vs buying, Pt III covered cases, Pt IV was all about fans, Pt V covered motherboards, CPUs, & CPU coolers, Pt VI was all about RAM, GPUs, & HDDs. Today in Pt VII it’s time to look at the one thing that is needed to make it all work, PSUs. Without a PSU to power your sweet new HTPC all of those parts are no more than expensive novelty paper weights.

The PSU is an often overlooked part, it’s thought to be not as important and people save money by buying a cheap PSU. The PSU is one part that you should spend good money on because a bad PSU can easily kill parts, or a whole PC. A cheap PSU is also highly inefficient and wastes ridiculous amounts of power, and money. Wasted electricity is converted into heat, ergo an inefficient PSU that wastes electricity will dump more heat into a case which can shorten the life of any PC .

PSUs are most efficient between 50% and 75% load. A PSU will also run cooler when it’s not running at 100% load which is why it’s a good idea to get a larger PSU than you actually need. The extra overhead will also give you with scope to upgrade the hardware later on without having to upgrade the PSU too. Be careful not to select a PSU that is too powerful because PSU aren’t efficient at less than 20%. Generally a 300 – 600 watt PSU is plenty for any HTPC. If you are not sure what size PSU you will need then hit up the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator Lite it’s an easy to use tool that will help determine what size PSU you are likely to need.

Passive and semi passive PSUs
Passive PSUs cost more than air cooled PSUs but they have the advantage being silent. Semi passive PSUs are also available. Semi passive PSUs usee fans but the fan will only start up at a certain load/power draw, generally above 50%. Passive PSUs are preferable to semi passive PSUs since they will contribute no extra noise.

Modular PSUs
Modular PSUs are great for reducing cable clutter since you need only use the power cables that you need. Modular PSUs are available in fully modular and semi modular configurations, the semi modular PSUs still have the 24 pin and 6 pin power supply cables permanently attached to the PSU where as non modular PSUs have all the cables permanently attached.
100% modular PSUs are preferable because they contribute less cable clutter inside a HTPC. Too many cables, if they are not managed properly, can inhibit air flow and raise temperatures which is something that should be avoided at all costs. A good HTPC, or PC in general, has minimal cable clutter and good cable management to aid air flow which is going to help keep temperatures low.

80Plus certified PSUs
The 80Plus certification indicates the efficiency of a PSU. A more efficient PSU runs cooler and wastes less electricity, which also will help lower internal temperatures and power bills. There are five standards, depending on how efficient the PSU:

80 PLUS PSUs are 80% efficient
80 PLUS Bronze PSUs are between 81%-85% efficient
80 PLUS Silver PSUs are between 85%-89% efficient
80 PLUS Gold PSUs are between 88%-92% efficient
80 PLUS Platinum PSUs are between 90%-94% efficient

Highly efficient PSUs aren’t cheap but they will provide your HTPC with better power efficiency, which means they will dump less heat into your HTPC which will help it last longer and also lower your power consumption which will in turn go towards lowering your power bill. It’s strongly advisable to purchase the most efficient PSU you can afford that is fully modular and passively cooled.

So that’s the end of the part selection guide. But come back tomorrow for the last part, Pt VIII: the bonus hidden level, which has some great tips, references, and resources.