Automobil Blues

Replacing Faulty Brake Light - Triton 2017

2024-09-25T14:18:00.003+08:00

Changing the faulty brake bulb for the 2017 Triton

Cars in the Family

2024-09-22T16:23:00.008+08:00

List of vehicles that has crossed path with the family over time.

Toyota Corolla KE30
Datsun 620 Pickup
Proton Saga
Toyota Corolla 1991 EE90
Perodua Kenari GX
Nissan X-Trail 2.0/2.5
Hyundai i10
Perodua Myvi Lagi Best
Mitsubishi Triton
Toyota Prius 2013

Mitsubishi Triton VGT Adventure - 2017

Reasons Triton was selected but not other brands then was due to the following criteria

rear seat is most comfortable compared to other pickup
Active Stability Control
7 airbag
service center was nearby to where I stayed.

Nissan X-trail 2.0/2.5

As my financial capability improved, it was time to consider safety features a bit more with all the travel I have to do frequently.

2 airbags!
All Wheel Drive + Traction Control
700mm water wading level. No more worry with sudden flash floods 😛.
Auto retard ignition timing to support RON92 fuel which was cheaper.
Until the government decided to phase it out.
There was a good info from the Australia forum
Online workshop manuals was available

Perodua Kenari GX

My parents were skeptical at first when I decided to purchase this.

Bread car, Roti van, that was what they called it.

This was the car that helped regain control of my expenses in my early working years.

Paid a bit more in deposit in order to keep my monthly repayment low at MYR315.
Good reliability. 5 years warranty. Affordable maintenance.

How to Check the Indicator on a Maintenance-Free Lead Acid Battery

2024-09-15T17:19:00.001+08:00

Maintenance-free lead-acid batteries come with a built-in indicator, usually a hydrometer, that helps you monitor the battery’s condition without needing to open it. Here's how to interpret the indicator:

1. **Green**: The battery is fully charged and working well.

2. **Black or Dark**: The battery is discharged and needs recharging.

3. **Clear or Yellow**: The battery may have a problem, such as low electrolyte levels, and might need to be replaced.

Regularly checking this indicator helps you maintain your battery and ensure optimal performance.

Best practice

Set a reminder on your calendar or in your phone
Routine maintenance schedule at your preferred workshop (they usually have a check up list)

Cara Tukar Bulb H4 Myvi 2016 / How to replace MYVI 2016 Advance H4 Bulb

2024-09-10T20:28:00.004+08:00

This are the steps to change the H4 bulb for MYVI Advance 2016.

Remove the power socket - a bit tight, use some strength
Remove the weather protection boot
Unlock the securing clip
Take out old bulb
Replace with new bulb (remember don't touch the bulb)
Put back in the reverse step

Jump start power bank rosak after 4 years. Used 2 times. Will you buy another one or stick with cables?

2024-09-10T13:26:00.008+08:00

My 70mai jump start powerbank is showing signs of ageing and deterioration.

1. The rubber over moulding has gone bad. Just sticky all over
2. Battery already started showing signs of swelling
3. Charges only up to 75% (Still can jump start though)

Given all the signs, its getting riskier to use this. I should just send it for recycling.

Will I buy a new one to replace it? Probably not.

Bottomline:

Its a nice to have, in order for the backup to work, you must remember to charge it.
As with all powerbanks, they have a lifespan, when start to see the unit swell, time to replace it.
If you are ok with the cost (~RM200++), definitely should get one.

At the end of the day, having the traditional cable would also just work anytime.

Car Battery Jumpstart - 70mai PowerBank

2024-09-06T21:18:00.005+08:00

I purchased this 70mai Jump Start powerbank somewhere towards the end of the Covid quarantine periods. Car battery died due to long periods of inactivity.

How you use them or any other similar jumpstart powerbank.

Below are the steps in general

1. Connect Red/(+) clamp to Red/(+) terminal of dead battery
2. Connect Black/(-) clamp to Black/(-) terminal of dead battery
3. Press the Boost button
4. Now try to start your car.

If it failed to start you will need to disconnect and repeat the steps again.
This is because the amount of charge the power bank has per attempt is limited.

I show here if you short the clamps, sparks happen but only for a short time

2024-09-02T15:10:00.003+08:00

Spring Cleaning.
Purging about 25,000+ posts generated from IFTTT over 15 years

i10: HID Conversion

2014-03-02T16:37:00.004+08:00

Just back from a friend's shop (SmartTint Auto Accessories) completing a 35W 4300K HID upgrade for the i10's standard H4. The kit is branded as TRUST Power Live. Paid RM450 for it.
Can't test until it gets darker. The ballast for this is slightly large compared to a OSRAM kit's ballast which was about the thickness of an iPhone.

HID Kit:
Brand - TRUST
35W 4300K with High/Low beam.
RM450

Installation:
i10 does not leave you much working space. An additional hole on the light housing had to be made to accommodate the extra wires going to the ballast. The ballast was mounted to the body side walls, above the tyre well.

You guys might be thinking about the reliability. My only guarantee is the trust I have for them giving me a worry free product that works. There was another cheaper one going for RM200++ and a more expensive one but the recommendation is for this instead of the higher end one. So far they have not let me down yet. Fingers crossed.

As a result of this upgrade I now have 1 pair of H4 Phillips Extreme Vision to let go for RM50. These were in the car for 3 months.

*Update 9 March 2014 - Lights looking good. The reflector does not seem to exhibit issues where there is scatter all over the place. Beams are looking in focus to shine on where they are suppose to be. Will be going back to SmartTint to have the telescopic type installed as I want to have a functional high beam.

*Update 16 May 2014 - SmartTint gave me a free replacement to those that was the telescopic type. But for some reason, I think free stuff does comes with a price. These turned out to be 8000K. Too damn white for my liking. What people say is correct, you can't see shit when it rained. So i ended up getting a pair of 4300K from EBay for about USD10. Took about 4 weeks to arrive. When I replaced it, i noticed extra cabling. There was an additional relay unit for the telescopic unit. How else would it have moved right? Not much problem, just swap out the cables matching the colours and it was done deal. With these 4300K, i hope it stays clear of the law.

Downsizing Experiment: Hyundai i10

2014-03-01T17:29:00.004+08:00

ODO Reading: 40244km

Date: 3/1/2014

Downsized

Stock i10 wheel size is 165/60/R14 in Malaysia. Converted to Michellin XM2 165/65/R13 with new alloys. Cost RM720 at Bok Tyre Jalan Mahsuri. They were very kind enough to entertain my experiment and providing input to what possible sizes should be use. They even offered to lend me metal rims to test the theory out. Thank you sir!!

Right off the I can feel the drive is a bit more muted with that extra 5mm of rubber. All I can provide is butt feel as I do not have the instruments to measure the potential changes. Per the calculators, this conversion causes the car to be lower by 9mm and speedo increments by 1%

Hyundai UK's website has a SE Blue Version which offers better fuel economy. The tyre spec for that unit is 155/70R13. I guess car companies here are pushing for the mass market appeal where clients want better looking rims (bigger also) instead of fuel economy.

Will be posting updates on the mileage and fuel consumption as I have them.

*just checked the spare tyre - 155/65R13

*Update 9 March 2014 - The first full tank reads at 10.5km/liter in mix urban with all the revving from the much more speedier response at wheel. Doesn't look that promising at this point. Fingers crossed for better results in coming refuels.

Wrong wheel/tires can wreck your MPG

2014-02-23T09:45:00.000+08:00

This was a post from the forum Ecomodder.

Prius 15's are better than aftermarket 17's! (Wrong wheels/tires can wreck your MPG)
So, about a year ago, I broke down and purchased a "new to me" Prius. A 2004 with all the bells and whistles from that year. Among these was a set of 17" rims that I was never really crazy about (I just didn't think they matched my car). So after a year of driving and getting low to mid 40mpg's, I told to my wife I wanted to swap tires with her car (also a Prius, but an '05) so I could test what the difference in MPGs would be. She said she didn't care, so I could do whatever I wanted. I swapped them between vehicles. My MPG went up, hers went down. I had half a tank with the 17's, and half with the 15's, and my MPG went up to 52mpg! She took a 1000 mile road trip, and her interstate MPG went down to 38 (normally mid to upper 40's)! Apparently the rolling resistance of those 17's was terrible.
She really hated the tires, and told me to give hers back, so I did... but not before I found a set of 15" Prius rims (from a 2010) and mounted some Bridgestone Ecopias to them :-). My first tank with the Ecopias came in at a whopping 64mpg! I am going to have to check a few more tanks, since it was a half tank (~250 miles) on account that we would be leaving on a trip. We currently have my car and are traveling on twisty, turney mountain roads in the middle of nowhere, so the next couple fill-ups may not tell much, but so far, EVERYTHING is better than it was. Road noise is reduced, acceleration in increased, tire mass is down, MPG is up (20% or more), the wife is happy, and I like the look of the new rims/tires on my car a lot better. If you are running 17's, just know, you could be paying an awful price for it!

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1104x825.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1238x825.

Source: Ecomodder.com

LCA Bushings vs Stabilizer Bushings

2014-02-22T16:47:00.001+08:00

Its been about 10 months since I got my current ride. When it arrived, it has cracked lower control arm bushes and worn stabilizer bushes. The bad LCA bush can be seen visually but the bad stabilizer bushings can't.

I concluded this from the worn right hand tyres when I first inspected the tyres. My previous ride also had the same issue. You can read my "gluk" battle post for that story.

So when I got this X, the first thing I did was to immediately replace the stabilizer bushings.

After 15,000km and 3 wheel services later, I do not see any uneven wear on the tyres.

Is it safe to conclude that it is possible that you ignore the LCA bushings until a much later time?
If you are cash strapped, maybe. But if money and time are not an issue, please get those bushes changed out.

Change the bush at a workshop outside. If you do it back at Nissan, the will make you change the whole lower control arm. Thats going to cost a bomb ^_^

Downsizing Rims to Improve Fuel Economy ?

2014-02-22T09:41:00.000+08:00

Here something I ran into. Maybe we need to consider a downsize at a time when our fuel prices continues to go up.

Car and Driver, a motoring magazine in the US conducted a test to figure out how much of a hit would fuel consumption take if the size of a car’s rims were increased or decreased. To make sure the rim size was the only variable, the tyre make was kept the same, tyre pressure was kept as recommended and tyre compounds were nearly identical. All tests were conducted using a standard Volkswagen Golf and all but the 15 inch rims, were aftermarket alloys.
The results of this test was as expected:
Rim Size (inches)/Overall weight (rim + tyre)/Fuel Consumption
19/24.5kg/(9km/L)
18/23kg/(9.3km/L)
17/22kg/(9.7km/L)
16/21kg/(9.74km/L)
15/18kg/(9.9km/L)

Read the full report on CarandDriver

If you have tried this, I would like to know your experience.

How to jump start a car with dead battery / Macam mana jump start ?

2014-01-26T11:17:00.016+08:00

Recently had to jumpstart a car with dead battery. The maintenance free (MF) type batteries are notorious to just suddenly die without warning.

Here are my steps

Positive to Positive (+)
Negative to Negative (-)
Start Donor Car
Leave running 5 minutes
Start recipient car
Leave running 5 minutes
Stop Donor Car engine
Remove Negative Leads (-)
Remove Positive Leads (+)
Car with dead battery should go to a shop to check out its battery as soon as possible.

Most instructions you can find online will tell you to connect negative to Ground (-).
Do you know why?

Fuel Trim Chart

2013-10-21T10:59:00.001+08:00

I ran into a very informative chart at Eastern Catalytic Tech Tips.

Read more here on their write up here - http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/fuel-trim-can-be-a-valuable-diagnostic-tool/

I like this diagram they have.

Image credit goes to the Eastern Catalytic.

X-trail: 02 Sensor

2013-10-18T22:40:00.001+08:00

I was comparing the O2 sensor signals between the X and a i10. The i10 looks like it has a more healthy 02 signal.

When i floor the pedal, the O2 signal responds shows exactly as described in scannerdanner's tutorial. As for the X, there was plenty noise & deviation from the expected signal form.

Do i have a lazy O2?

Gonna need more tutorials........

X-trail: Fuel Trim

2013-10-18T22:37:00.001+08:00

Kind of dragged my feet updating this.

Plugged in the OBD2 donggle. Ran the software.

What did i find?

Short Term Fuel Trim -> +10 range

Long Term Fuel Trim -> +10 range

That would make total fuel trim -> +20% range

This would mean I have a lean condition

When I throttle the car to >3000RPM total fuel trim drops under 5%. Per scannerdanner's tutorial information, he would say I have a vacuum leak.

So i need to detect where that vacuum leak is by doing one of the below

- spray bottle

- carb cleaner

- propane

- smoke

Which should I choose?

Notes: Fuel Trim

2013-09-09T22:10:00.000+08:00

High Total Fuel Trim at Idle

Low Total Fuel Trim at higher RPM

-> Possible vacuum leak

Low Total Fuel Trim at idle

High Total Fuel Trim at higher RPM

-> Possible dirty MAF sensor

Paul Danner - Dirty MAF Case Study Video below.

Case Study: Lean Condition Variables

2013-08-28T22:28:00.001+08:00

This is one very interesting case study shown to us by Paul Danner. Interesting how one missing air filter can force the ECU to make the engine run lean (also poor on FC since the fuel trims are all the way to the roof)

Short Term Fuel Trim
Long Term Fuel Trim

Engine Noises - Knocking Sounds Types

2013-08-24T11:28:00.000+08:00

So here's what I've gathered so far in regards of reading up about knocking sounds.

PISTON SLAP:

Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring.

VALVE NOISE:

Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburettor while engine is running.

ROD BEARING KNOCK:

Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance.

REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK:

Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness.

WRIST PIN SLAP:

This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise.

Post top overhaul & engine noise/rattle

2013-08-19T15:12:00.000+08:00

I have been testing the car for a few days and through extensive testing, its sad to say the knockings are still there.

What was fixed

- long crank during start or can't start

- water/coolant loss from radiator/spare tank

The long crank & coolant lost definitely confirms the issue with the head gasket.

Now into the main issue the knocks. After the top overhaul, the knocks are now much more harder to replicate and observed.

Recreating the Knock

It is now harder to recreate the knock. Its less audible and happens less regularly.

going uphill, RPM ranging 1500-1750 -> rattles if you can maintain at 1750
cruising ~~and accelerating after that -> can only get a occasional metal slap/tick~~ with overdrive with RPM about 1500-1750 & speeds of 60-70kmh
braking from cruising (observed occasionally but unable to recreate)

Current conclusion for the knock to occur (below conditions must fulfill)

under engine load
1500-1750 RPM -> rattling
Undefined RPM range -> tick/slap
tick/slap happend at high gears & low gears - updated 29 July 2013

Next steps

Feedback to the service center of course. Didn't pay them RM1.7k to not fix the problem.
Need data and lots of it. Nobody so far has been able to give me a proper diagnosis and support it with data. Guess work most of the time.
Sell the damn car =P
Ignore the problem by turn the volume up on the radio =P
Floor the pedal more often to drive > 2000RPM =P

Update: 19 Aug 2013

Cleaned the MAF sensor with contact cleaner yesterday. Better response but still knock. :(
Revert to paper type air filter. Bought from spare part shop. Interesting that the Japan oily one continues to be out of stock
Poured a can of Bardahl 1 in the engine

Update 16 May 2014 - All my research and troubleshooting points into the direction of the tensioner kit. If it was the rod bearing, it the car would have been getting worse. So far fuel economy is still within range and I've survived a few long round Malaysia trips covering over 2000++ kms. This Youtube vid had the same sound and symptoms as well and theirs was the tensioner.

To confirm and fix this I would need to send the car into the shop and spend close to RM1000++ but I guess I'll just hold back since its not really giving me any grief currently.

Blower motor decides to go

2013-07-29T19:53:00.001+08:00

Bye bye blower motor.
It became a roaring tiger yesterday driving around town. Going through bumpy roads activated this one. The sound disappeared when you increase the fan speed to max or switch it off.

Comes back with the bumps. lol

Got this fixed at Beng Lee A/C Sg Dua next to the vet clinic.

They found the "blower resistor" in a possible bad state. 2 pin have melted some plastic. I think this is the PCB for the variable speed drive for the blower motor. On a long shot I was hoping thing might be causing electrical noise that is causing the knocking but tough luck.

Damage to today RM455

Find the culprit time

2013-07-14T12:51:00.001+08:00

Symptoms

Radiator expansion tank losing water
Knocking during low rev 1500rpm-2500rpm
Long cranking to start (chugging engine if it starts sometimes don't start at all)
No fault codes

What new symptoms will appear next? @_@

K&N Drop in Air Filter

2013-04-09T18:46:00.000+08:00

Its finally arrived !!
My first K&N. Well I resorted to buying this after driving around town for 2 weeks and nobody has got the Japan type air filter.

Got it from Whybee Ltd on Ebay - GBP39.04 (about RM182 according to Paypal exchange rate)
The cheapest I've found on the websites in Malaysia was going for about RM270.

Guess the extra I could splurge it on the cleaners.

On to replacing it and to experience it for myself all the hype about K&N Filters.

Update: 19 Aug 2013
It definitely feels easier to push the car when you floor the pedal, aside from that, not much else observed. I have a light foot so not much difference really.

2013-03-15T21:12:00.001+08:00

The new "old X" is finally here.

Year 2005 2.5 Full Spec Silver Gray Unit

I get Xenon lights, climate control, more horses and worn leather seats.

Love the HID. So bright. I can see everything.
Love the low rev the 2.5 does on the street

Sway bar bush and possibly the links are gonna need replacements. No wonder the tyres were balding out. It definitely looks like all X-trails in needs to have their sway bar aka stabilizer bar bushing changed at 5 years or less.

Would you consider me an 'expert' since this is my second X-trail ? hahaha

So far the throttle position sensor issue hasn't show up yet.

Need to monitor that 'small oil leak' at the valve cover the ETCM guys found. Hopefully not noticeable

Updated 17 March 2013:
Stuff that are confirm having issues
- Stabilizer bushings definitely out
- The air blower motor might be dying
- LH side mirror motor probably busted as it won't retract
- FR RH speaker no sound. Needs to be checked out
- engine rattling during throttling. TPS? not sure yet

Update 28 March 2013:
- Replaced the stabilizer bushes.
- air blower motor humming didn't hasn't shown up again
- Replaced cabin filter
- the stabilizer links feels like it could be due for replacement also.
- bought some new plugs but haven't replaced them yet
- ordered a drop in K&N air filter from UK after going round town for a week and nobody has the oiled air filter from Japan
- tinted the main screen IR Black + 4 mil security
- found that they listed my old car on mudah selling for 46888K!!! >_< If you plan to get that car come talk to me first :)

2013-03-04T20:29:00.003+08:00

A new ride is coming...

'what is it with you and that car ?' ~friend

ETCM visit today revealed

Small leak to the valve cover
Cracks to lower arm bushes, more severe on the right side
Fault by throttle position sensor.