Anders Hallgren conducted a chiropractic study in Sweden that showed that 252 of 400 dogs had misaligned spines, and 65% of the 252 with spinal problems also had behavioral problems. Only 30% of dogs without spinal injuries had behavioral problems. 78% of the dogs labeled aggressive or hyperactive had spinal problems. The dogs in this study were considered well-cared for and were volunteered for the study by their owners, so the study did not include dogs where owners would have abusive handling to hide. (Cited in Paul Owens’ The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training)

How many of the spinal problems found in the Hallgren study could be related to leash dynamics—pulling by the dog, jerking by the human? After letting this question nag me for over 6 years, I finally began to research the possible roles that collars and leashes play in a dog’s well being.

Dr. Julie Kaufman, specializing in animal chiropractic, (www.chiropracticforanimals.net) has treated dogs with “KNOWN” [her emphasis] injuries directly caused from a choke-chain; from a sudden jerk or pull from the leash/chain/rope; or from being tied outside. A collar puts pressure on the neck in what, too often, results in injuries to the dog. Dr. Kaufman explains, “One dog was completely paralyzed in both front legs following a jerk on the collar. She had several discs blown as a result and eventually regained movement after weeks of chiropractic and acupuncture [treatments]. In fact, neck injuries from collars are so common that we see new cases every few weeks.”

Dr. Kaufman often uses a model dog skeleton to illustrate how pulling will affect the joint segments. This helps dog owners visualize how a small tug can easily injure or even slightly dislocate a segment of the spine. She adds, “Since research indicates that it only takes the weight of a dime to depress a nerve’s function by 50%, it’s understandable how a tug on a narrow collar could cause major pressure and trauma to a small area of the neck. If you catch the neck at a critical angle, you could blow a disc, cause nerve or muscle injury or worse.”

Premier, a highly respected company that provides safe, effective, and humane training tools for pets, found in a recent survey that 96% of Veterinarians report having seen or heard of a collar-related injury or death within the last year. That translates to thousands of suffering and/or dead dogs each year.

Tracheal collapse has happened to dogs who have only worn a flat collar for leash walking. When on a leash, regular pressure from the collar—whether because the dog or the human pulls—is often at the root of this.

What’s a human to do about collars?

Here are some collars to consider. They all should help a dog learn not to pull while protecting from neck trauma. (While this list is not comprehensive, you will want to consider collars that have similar and tested attributes.)

1. Head Collar (Gentle Leader by Premier or Halti Head Collar)

2. KeepSafe Break Away Collar (Premier)

3. Easy Walk Harness (Premier)

4. Martingale Collar, like a prong/pinch collar, must be properly fitted to the dog. Your trainer can advise you.

5. Prong/Pinch Collar, if, and only if, you are working with a trainer, using positive reinforcement training methods.

This should be properly fitted and never worn unless you are actively training your dog. Your trainer can advise you which brand(s) to purchase.

1. Head collars, like the Gentle Leader or the Halti, consist of nylon straps—one fits around the base of the muzzle and the other, around the back of the neck. The strap around the base of the muzzle allows you to lead the dog in the direction you want to go rather than pulling on the dog’s neck. The strap around the back of the neck applies pressure to a point that triggers a dog to naturally relax and thus has a calming effect—some L.E.A.R.N. volunteers have called that glazed, relaxed look on a dog the “Zen Effect.” Head collars are not muzzles; dogs can eat, drink, pant, carry toys, and even howl while wearing one. Head collars can also be highly effective training tools. It is vital that the collar is properly fitted and introduced. A video on fitting the Gentle Leader as well as a on training with the head collar can be seen on Premier’s website: http://www.premier.com/View.aspx?page=dogs/products/behavior/gentleleader/video

2. The KeepSafe Break Away collar has a patented safety buckle or release mechanism if your dog’s collar gets caught on a fence, heat vent, another dog’s jaw (while playing), or tree. After researching this article, I purchased a KeepSafe for our Lab. This summer he got caught in large branches in a hard-to-access area along a riverbank. He returned without his collar. The KeepSafe may have saved his life as a traditional flat collar, like the ones he’s worn for years, could have literally hung him over the river. I immediately purchased a second KeepSafe. The KeepSafe has two metal loops on either side of the safety buckle so that a leash can be attached without the collar releasing. (Make sure your dog isn’t likely to bolt away if the collar releases in the woods. Micro-chipping is a great back up for identification.)

3. The Easy Walk harness discourages pulling because it attaches to the leash in the front. In contrast, traditional harnesses encourage the “sled dog” reaction which is to PULL. Again, after researching, I purchased an Easy Walk and have been very pleased. Our mostly leash-trained Lab would pull to grab anything edible that he saw before the human knew to say “leave it.” This harness protects his neck and trachea.

4. The Martingale collar, also known as a Greyhound collar, was originally designed for dogs with necks larger than their heads but has now become increasingly popular among people who would like more gentle control over a dog than a choke collar offers (see just below on choke collars—beware, they choke!). The Martingale also helps when a dog tries to back out of a collar, and it helps flyball and agility trainers who want to keep a constant hold on their dog. (Please note: the Martingale should not be mistaken for the “half-check” collar. While they work similarly, the Martingale is made entirely of nylon while the half-check is made or leather or nylon plus chain.) The nylon construction helps ensure that a dog’s fur or skin doesn’t get caught in the collar. Fitting the Martingale is critical because it must fit the dog’s neck exactly. The collar should be comfortably loose on the dog, but when the dog pulls on the leash, it becomes snug but does not restrict the airway. Generally, to prevent the risk of choking, it is wise to put the collar on your dog only when you’ll be walking your dog with a leash.

5. The Prong/Pinch collar—do your research and talk to more than one trainer to see if this is right for you. Ask your trainer what his or her experience is with prong collars and how/when it’s recommended to use them.

Deb Hamele, founder and former President of LABMED and experienced trainer, has strong warnings against the choke/chain collar but believes that the prong collar has been given an undeservedly bad reputation because of its appearance. Prongs/ pinches must be fitted properly to be safe and effective. The user should be taught how to fit and use them properly—you could easily put your dog at risk if you try to figure it out yourself. Note: Prong collars should only be worn when the dog is being actively trained. They should not be used at any other time because they could get caught on something resulting in injury.

Prongs are considered a “self correcting” collar. Deb explains, “you do not have to give a jerk or pull on the collar. The dog usually pulls once or twice and finds the collar tightens and then never pulls again — I have seen that dramatic of a result in classes I have taught again and again. It then becomes the dog’s choice to either pull or walk nicely; no correction needed on the part of the human partner.” Deb cautions that in the case of aggressive dogs, a prong/pinch collar could make the dog more aggressive if used in a harsh manner.

The stimulation of the prong can cause some dogs to shut down; for example, the stimulation of the prong adds to excitement and/or frustration of the dog, and the dog then reacts aggressively because of the collar’s effect.

Choke chains/collars are NOT recommended for the general dog owner; they do exactly what they say: choke! And they don’t help the dog figure out how to behave properly unless through fear, not a productive training dynamic. In fact, most of the bloody injuries from collars come from chokers. LABMED has helped many recover from such injury. You may visit http://www.labmed.org/ss_angel.html or http://www.labmed.org/ss_rex.html to view photos of how serious these injuries can be.

A study in Germany highlights the distinction between prong and choke collars (quoted from http://www.cobankopegi.com/prong.html; the site also includes comments by Bonnie Dalzell, MA,)

100 dogs were in the study. 50 used choke and 50 used prong.

The dogs were studied for their entire lives. As dogs died, autopsies were performed.

Of the 50 which had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea, or back. 2 of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma.

Of the 50 which had prongs, 2 had injuries in the neck area, 1 was determined to be genetic. 1 was caused by trauma.

Des Hawgood, of the Institute of Animal Care Education in England, has a web article on the “Misuse of Choke Chains” and advocates legislation to outlaw the use of choke collars because of the huge number of injuries and death. Injuries from choke collars include: Injured ocular vessels; tracheal and oesophageal damage; severely sprained necks; cases of fainting; transient foreleg paralysis; recurrent laryngeal nerve paralysis, and hind leg ataxia. In some cases x-rays showed misalignment of the cervical vertebrae and in others, Horner’s Syndrome was diagnosed. (X-rays were necessary because not all injuries are visible without them.) (http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/LA/hawgood1.htm)

To reiterate:

Avoid any and all choke chains or collars. There is no good reason to use a choke to walk your dog. You will likely pay not only for a choke collar but also for a shorter life in your dog and more vet expenses from health/injury. Worse, your dog suffers.

Do not use shock collars or any device which aims to provide an electric-generated correction unless you have been properly trained in their use. This is another story in itself, but these devices can cause health problems, fear, and aggression/behavioral issues as well as physical and/or ear pain. Improper use of such devises has resulted in everything from a confused dog to a tortured dog. If you currently use them, research them thoroughly to understand their many risks and dangers.

While this article has focused on collar and harness options, remember that retractable leashes—even though they may let your dog have more leeway to explore and run during a walk—usually result in a big jerk when the end of the line is reached. The unsuspecting dog always gets a big jerk, and sometimes smaller dogs experience a force which jolts them off the ground. With a flat collar, all this force is inflicted at the dog’s neck. While retractable leashes have their strong advocates and opponents, I believe the risk of neck, spine, and/or tracheal damage is simply too great to recommend it.

It is important to remember that any force, regardless of how little, that you apply to your dog’s neck does have the potential to cause chiropractic injury. Thus, please evaluate yourself (i.e., how you plan to use a collar), your dog and your situation or training approach before making your collar decision.

In summary, your choice of collar may be the most important decision you make for your dog’s heath and longevity. Make sure to protect your dog’s spine, neck, and trachea from the risks of a jerk or pull. Make yours a conscious and well-informed choice.

A special thanks to Deb Hamele and Dr. Julie Kaufman for their sharing their expertise and experience.

For additional chiropractic information, visit http://members.tripod.com/chlmera/tutorials/wadog.html: this site, a primer in chiropractic, describes the risks associated with flat, choke, and prong collars and harnesses.

This article originally appeared in the November 2007 issue of The Retriever and was revised for April 2012.

Keep your dog safe on walks. When walking your dog, keep him/her safe by putting yourself between your dog and passersby (pedestrians or bicyclists). Your dog may be very friendly, but the passerby could do something to alarm, upset or even antagonize your dog.

Did your dog put on some weight over the Winter? Help your dog to lose excess pounds by gradually increasing the amount of exercise they receive and/or reducing his/her food in small increments. A gradual weight loss is much better for your dog than a sudden one. For severely overweight dogs, substitute canned pumpkin, cooked oatmeal or veggies for food (one for one substitution: example ¼ C for ¼ C). This gives your dog the feeling of being full without all the extra calories. Also, make sure that you are feeding the correct amount of food for your dog’s level of energy and exercise. Please see the “Ideal Weight” article on L.E.A.R.N.’s website in the Education section: http://www.labadoption.org/education for additional information.

Does your dog bark too much at activities going on outside or feel lonely when left alone? Try leaving a radio or TV on when you leave the house. It keeps them company and drowns out outside noises.

Is your dog afraid of thunderstorms? Is your dog anxious? If so, he or she may benefit from an anxiety wrap or thunder shirt. These body wraps look a lot like a dog coat. Some body wraps are designed to use acupressure points to help calm the dog. Others are designed specifically to counter the static discharge from approaching thunderstorms. Dogs can sense thunderstorms long before people. If you use a wrap for thunderstorm anxiety, be sure to put it on before or just as soon as your dog becomes agitated, rather than waiting until the storm is upon you.

Be careful not to inadvertently reinforce your dog’s anxious behavior by positively rewarding them. Likewise, don’t punish them. Remain calm and try to appear confident and happy. You can find more information about body wraps and other ways to help relieve your dogs anxiety at http://anxietywrap.com.au/thunder.html , www.thundershirt.com and on L.E.A.R.N.’s website under Education; Reference Documents http://www.labadoption.org/education/reference-documents

Does your dog love to go on car rides with you? Please keep their safety in mind:

-Be sure not to open your windows too far. Dogs can and will jump out of moving vehicles!

-Don’t let your dog ride in the back of your pick-up. More than 100,000 dogs die each year as a result of falling or jumping off a truck. Countless more get badly hurt. Securing the dog with a rope or chain doesn’t work, either. Dogs can jump or be thrown out of the truck and end up being dragged or hanged. Ideally, a dog should be secured in the back seat.

-Don’t let your dog hang his/her head out the window. The wind, debris and insects moving across their face can cause injury and infection.

-If your car has push levers/buttons for window operation, be sure to disable the levers and use the child safety lock on the doors. Several dogs have inadvertently opened car windows and doors and either fallen or jumped out. Recently a dog was hit by a car after falling out the window. The dog survived but had to have one of his legs amputated.

-Never leave your dog in an unattended vehicle even on a warm day. Even with the windows open, a parked car can quickly become a furnace and cause heat stroke or death in a dog.

Be careful using cocoa mulch for landscaping. According to the ASPCA: “Cocoa beans contain the stimulants caffeine and theobromine. Dogs are highly sensitive to these chemicals, called methylxanthines. In dogs, low doses of methylxanthine can cause mild gastrointestinal upset (vomiting, diarrhea and /or abdominal pain); higher doses can cause rapid heart rate, muscle tremors, seizures and death. Eaten by a 50-pound dog, about 2 ounces of cocoa bean mulch may cause gastrointestinal upset; about 4.5 ounces, increased heart rate; about 5.3 ounces, seizures; and over 9 ounces, death.”

Does your dog love to swim? Watch out for the blue-green algae blooms. They are toxic; some dogs become very sick, others have died after swimming in water with blue-green algae.

Considering sunscreen or insect repellant for your buddy? Avoid using sunscreens or insect repellants not labeled specifically for use on animals. Some ingredients, like DEET, can cause problems.

In 2008, the EPA received over 44,000 reports of harmful reactions that were related to topical flea and tick control. In 2009, the EPA started investigating spot-on flea and tick treatments and cautioned pet owners of the use of these products. Last year, the EPA said it will develop stricter testing and review labeling after increasing complaints of injury and death due to spot-on flea and tick treatments were reported. So what’s a pet owner to do?

Educate! Educate! Educate!

Educate yourself on all the options that are available for flea and tick control. There are many chemical and natural products on the market to choose from, so I suggest people research them all and use various sources for their research. Based on your dog’s health and environment, you and your veterinarian can make the decision that is best for your animal. As always, a good foundation of health for any animal is good nutrition. To help your pet this flea and tick season, be sure to feed them a high quality food that is free of corn, by-products, artificial coloring, artificial flavoring and preservatives. An animal has a better chance against pests when it is healthy.

Chemical Options for Flea and Tick Control:

Collars – Flea & Tick Collars release toxins in the air to ward off bugs. However, they don’t work well, and the toxins are inhaled by the dog, you and your children. Makes you want to give Fido a big hug, huh?

Spot-On Treatments – These spot-on treatments are commonly used by pet owners. Many of them contain Permethrin, which kill the nasty bugs by paralyzing their nervous system. The problem with Permethrin is that it can¬not distinguish between an insect’s nervous system, a dog’s nervous system and a human’s nervous system.

Sprays & Shampoos – Once these products are applied to the pet’s coat, your pet becomes a four legged walking toxin. Your dog will get an extra dosing of these chemicals every time it licks itself. Your family will get their share of the toxins with every hug and kiss given to Fido and Fluffy.

Natural Options for Flea and Tick Control:

Garlic – There is a lot of controversy about garlic. Some believe it’s toxic to pets since it contains thiosulphate, as do onions, which leads to hemolytic anemia. The differ¬ence is that onions contain a lot higher concentration of thiosulpate than garlic. Garlic has only traces of thiosulpate. Garlic has been used for many years as an anti-parasitic and anti-bacterial supplement. Garlic helps the immune system, aids in digestion and encourages the growth of good bacteria. In small amounts, garlic can be a good addition to your dog’s diet. There are products available especially for animals that are very inexpensive. You will need to start the garlic several weeks before flea and tick season begins.

Neem Oil – For thousands of years, India has used neem as an insect repellent. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has been using neem as a natural commercial pesticide for food crops. There are many products; shampoos and sprays that contain neem and work great on the dogs as an insect repel¬lent and are helpful for skin irritations. Be careful using neem and other oils around cats. They are very sensitive to oils.

Essential Oils – Many natural sprays are available that repel and can even kill fleas and ticks. Lavender, lemon and eucalyptus are great as a repellent. Products containing peppermint and clove have shown to actually kill fleas and ticks. Be careful using oils around cats. They are very sensitive to oils and some oils can be toxic to cats.

General Flea & Tick Prevention:

• Wash animal bedding frequently in hot water. Dry the bedding in a dryer with high heat.
• Vacuum rugs and plush furniture frequently. Dispose of the vacuum bags to avoid any bugs crawling out of the bag.
• Diatomaceous Earth is an off-white powder that is the fossilized remains of marine phytoplankton. It has been used by farmers as a natural wormer for livestock. Food-grade Diatomaceous Earth can be added to your pet’s food to assist with internal parasite control, but it is not effective for heartworm. It also is used on carpets to kills fleas and bed bugs.
• Keep weeds trimmed and grass mowed to prevent ticks from migrating into your yard.
• Plant lavender, peppermint, lemongrass and geraniums around your house to help keep fleas and ticks away.
• Brush regularly to help control mild flea infesta¬tions and prevent major outbreaks.
• Bath your dog with natural products that are designed to repel fleas and ticks are beneficial as well. Avoid excess bathing as that may cause dry skin Also, avoid products with sodium laurel sulfate or parabens as they can cause irritation.

Dorothy Vetrovec, a Volunteer with L.E.A.R.N., owns Nature’s Feed (Natural source for pet food and more) at 2440 Westward Dr., Unit C • Spring Grove, IL 60081, located next to the Spring Grove Post Office. Phone: 815-675-2008; Website: www.naturesfeed.net

More resources on tick, flee and heartworm prevention include:

• http://www.greenpaws.org/better.php
• On Flea Control Chemicals: http://www.nrdc.org/living/pets/flea-control-chemicals.asp
• GreenPaws Flea and Tick Products Directory: http://www.simplesteps.org/greenpaws-products
• Above Directory organized by risk: http://www.greenpaws.org/_docs/GP_productlist.pdf

To reduce insects outside on your property, there are several products for large acreage: mosquitobarrier.com and cedarcide.com. For smaller yards, Vet’s Best and St Gabriel Organics both make a yard spray that you attach to the hose.

Sully’s Story

February 10th 2012 was an extremely tough day for our family. We had to make the decision to put down our 11 year old chocolate lab Sully. This has been especially tough for Tracy and I as Sully was our first “child” having arrived in our house in May of 2002. Not quite a year before our daughter Emily.

Sully was a rescue dog from the Labrador Education and Rescue Network (L.E.A.R.N.). In the fall of 2001 we contacted LEARN to inquire about possible lab adoption and to put our name on the list. We wanted a younger chocolate lab that needed a good home. A representative from LEARN came out to interview us to see if we would be an acceptable home for an adoption. This was in October and we didn’t hear anything until the following April.

I was up in the central part of Wisconsin with my father for a turkey hunt/spring walleye getaway. When we were out on the river fishing, my cell phone rang and I let it go to voice mail. After checking the message, I found out it was LEARN with a possible dog for us to adopt. By this time, I had in my own mind, convinced myself that not adopting a dog might be the best. We had just put in our yard and having built a new house, I didn’t want to bring in a dog that would chew up our house. I thought about erasing the message (a move that is pointed out to me on many occasions) but decided to talk to Tracy when I got home and see what she thought. Well we went to Rockford IL where the foster family lived to see him. After taking him for a walk, we decided to adopt him. The foster family said that Sully stood at the door after we left. So I guess in a way he knew we were the ones.

Let’s backtrack a bit. Sully’s story about his birth and the 1st year of his life is unknown. Sully was picked up running the streets of downtown Chicago near Grant Park, by the animal control. He had been “on the lam” for a while as he was gaunt and thin, almost emaciated. The best guess we have is he was a cute puppy who got too big for the apartment living in down town Chicago and was left to run or he got away from his owners who then didn’t bother to look for him. No one had filed a report of a missing chocolate lab. His life and ours were about to change. A volunteer from LEARN was driving into Chicago to pick up a yellow lab that had been surrendered to a shelter. Apparently the owners who surrendered the dog had a change of heart and were allowed to take the dog back. The volunteer got to the shelter and the yellow lab they were supposed to pick up was gone. The director of the shelter then suggested that the volunteer take in a thin chocolate lab that had just come off the streets back with him instead. This of course, was our Sully.

Sully stayed with the foster family in Rockford for a little over a month. While there, the volunteers assessed his behavior and health to see if he would be a good candidate for adoption. He was given veterinary care and put on a diet to slowly get him back to a healthy weight. We are truly thankful for the great volunteers at LEARN, the foster family’s who take these dogs in, and the veterinarians who care for them.

Not knowing how Sully would react to a new home, we purchased a crate for him to sleep in at night and to keep him confined when we were gone. Sully hated going in his crate and we really didn’t like having him in it. After about a month, Tracy and I decided to see how he would be at night. He was great! Eventually he became comfortable with his bed that we kept in our room. We slowly introduced him to being left alone in the house outside of his crate. First we tried 30 minutes, then 1 hour, 2 hours 4 hours, and eventually all day. He never chewed a thing or got into any trouble (other than finding his way up on our bed and the couch!)

Sully was a runner. This explains why he was running the streets in the first place. He did get away on us a couple of times but thankfully he was caught and leashed every time by a neighbor who called us from the phone number on his tag. I had always hoped to hunt with him but that wasn’t going to happen until he could be trusted off leash. In the summer of 2002, we ordered an e collar. I took him to an open field and let him go. He took off running but soon found out that I could still reach out and “touch him” electronically. This was the last time Sully would try and run away. I’d like to think that after time, Sully also started to become part of our family and in doing so; he didn’t see the point in running away. He was family.

Sully wasn’t the only surprise of 2002. In May, Tracy came downstairs when I was tiling the floor to our new basement bathroom and announced that we were expecting. So many things run through your mind. Will I be a good parent? Can we make it on one income? And naturally, how will Sully respond to a new member of our “pack”? Emily was born 01/06/03. I took home her birthing cap and some other items on the night before we left the hospital so he could smell them. When we brought her home in the car carrier, Sully was naturally curious but gentle. He was the same when Matthew came along a little over 3 years later. He knew what was going on. Tracy had quit working in early December 2002. She was home with Sully every day since.

I took Sully pheasant hunting on several occasions. I was concerned when we first got him that he might be sensitive to loud noises. Thankfully, that was never the case. Firing a shotgun, the vacuum, thunderstorms and fireworks never really bothered him. In fact, Sully liked to be vacuumed with the shop vac. I’d like to say Sully was a master hunter but he was not. He did have a great nose for birds and loved being out in the field. He had a drive that wouldn’t quit. Sully did manage to bag several birds on our various outings to Scuppernong Nature Area and he probably would have gotten more had his master been able to shoot better. When he was 5, we found that he had a slightly dysplastic left hip and a joint mouse in his right front shoulder. This caused him a lot of discomfort and soreness after hunting out in the field. Much to Sully’s sadness, we felt it best to retire him from his hunting duties.

Sully always loved being outside in his yard. Once we solved the running away issue, he was my constant companion while doing yard work. He had the peculiar habit when I was cutting grass to move his toy from where I had cut, to the part of the lawn that still needed cutting. He knew I would have to stop and throw the toy. Watching him play in the first snow of the year was always a treat. Sully always acted as if it was the first time he had ever seen snow. We called him “snow pup”. But that wasn’t unusual for him as he loved the simple things in life like lying in the sun, rolling in the grass, playing in the sprinkler, and hunting for critters. Many rabbits and squirrels were chased out of the yard (a few were even caught) and unfortunately one skunk. There were many birds that nested in the trees and shrubs around the house that used Sully’s fur as construction material.

The neighbor kids all got to know Sully by name. He liked to greet them as they came off the bus from school (and sometimes take their hat and/or mittens). He also was the “welcome wagon” greeting everyone who came by the house when walking through the neighborhood pulling wagons with kids or pushing strollers. He also “assisted” in handing out the treats to the kids for Halloween. Halloween 2011 was the last time he would perform this duty.

It was in November that we noticed a change in Sully. He would sit and bark for no reason, have trouble getting around the house, experience tremors, lack of coordination and frequent house accidents. In all our years up to this time, there was maybe one time he had an accident in the house and that was our fault. We think he had a bout of vestibular disease but after getting over that, we could notice that something had really changed. We soon found out that Sully was suffering from cognitive disorder. (Dementia in dogs.) It has been extremely difficult for us to watching his mind betray him while he is still physically in good shape. Clearly the dog we knew was leaving us and being replaced by a shell of the wonderful dog we knew so well and loved so dearly.

It is with heavy hearts that we took him to the vet for the last time. I suppose I can take some comfort in knowing that he no longer is confused. All I know is I’m going to miss my friend. Our entire family will. We could not have asked for a kindlier, gentler, absolute sweetheart of a dog. It has been our tremendous privilege to be his owners. Sully has taught us to love unconditionally, take pleasure in the simplest of things, and to be thankful for everything no matter how trivial. His love is a treasure that will remain in our hearts forever and our lives have been enriched because of his companionship.

So long faithful friend, until we meet again….

If you are looking for a well-behaved and cuddly companion, then I am your gal . . .

My name is Mia (Me-a) and I am 3 years old, chocolate, pure-breed, and 80 lbs petite.

I was given up because my owner wanted a guard dog and not a lap dog.  I guess I licked too many faces and sat in too many laps.  He must not know anything about Labradors!

I live with my foster Mom and Dad and my foster lab brother.  I was cautious of my foster brother at first, but now we love to play together.  I am still very timid around my foster Dad, but I’m learning that he won’t hurt me.  My foster Mom thinks that I was ignored because I didn’t know how to sit or even respond to my name.  Now I sit for my food and sit at the door to go outside.  When she says my name and I look at her, I sometimes get a tasty treat.

What are my good qualities?  I don’t have separation anxiety issues (whatever that is), I don’t bark excessively, and I can be trusted outside of my kennel.  I also hold my potty until it is time to go outside. So what do I need to work on?  Number 1 – trust, Number 2 – trust, and Number 3 – trust.  My foster Mom says I need to lose 15 pounds and also learn how to drink without getting her floors all wet.  I keep telling her that it is just water! What type of home am I looking for?  A loving, patient family.  I also prefer a quieter-type home, please.

Come see for yourself how sweet I am.  Love, Mia.

It’s been such a long time since I provided you with an update on Brody. So I thought I would take some time to get you caught up. :-)

You know as well as we do – Brody is a great dog. He has been an absolute joy to have! It took a couple of months for him to really bond with us but once he did, there is no question that we are his “people.” As he’s settled in here, it’s been fun to see his personality come out… like how he loves to sit outside and watch people go by, and how he stomps his front feet with excitement when it’s time to go outside, or how much he loves pepperoni and how when he lays his front feet curl under like a lamb. He’s mellow when he’s supposed to be, but has that fun puppy energy when it’s time to play – he’s just all-in-all a great companion.

A couple weeks ago we finished a Beginner dog training class with him. He really grew through that. I think he got frustrated at first when he started to have to follow our rules more strictly than he had before, but now that he knows the rules he is pretty good about doing what he’s supposed to. So now he’s a rock star at sit, down, wait, stay and leave it (the instructor was especially pleased with his “leave it” skills – she even had him demonstrate in front of the class!). He still has a lot to learn in regard to recall, but on August 25 we start another dog training class that focuses on getting and keeping your dog’s attention. We’re hopeful that this class will be helpful.

There is a dog park just two miles from our apartment, and he loves playing there. It’s not that huge, which is great because he’s so fast. Almost every time we go there someone comments on his handsomeness, speed or his happy, wide alligator smile. I attached a picture of him from early spring; we made the mistake of taking him to the dog park after we got some rain. What resulted was a very muddy (but happy) Brody. He loved splashing through the muddy puddles (but didn’t really like the bath that followed). Oh, that dog… :-)

We took Brody in for his vet appointment last week. Brody got a clean bill of health – good weight, blood work, coat, etc.

I attached a few other pictures; I hope you enjoy them.

Hello Labby Lovers of the world,

I’m Dudley (and not do-right) I am an energetic boy about 1 year old.  Actually I think they got my name wrong,  I should have been called “Hershey”  after all I am a chocolate Lab,  I love “Hugs & Kisses”, just plain sweet as can be.  I am learning to be crate trained at the moment; this is to keep me from getting in trouble while my foster parents are away at work.  Some of the things I do the best are chasing the ball, chasing the ball and chasing the ball.  Did I mention I love chasing the ball?  My foster dad runs me until I actually have to lie down to drink my water.  I am non-stop action.  I settle down very well in the evening when I watch TV with my foster mom and dad.

I would really, really, like a home where I can have a lot of attention.  I love kids, (especially the ones with dirty faces) I would lick them to death.  I like other dogs, in fact just last weekend I had a ball (did someone say BALL) playing with a Springer Spaniel name Riley.  We had an awesome time running and playing. I am proud to say I won the endurance battle.

My foster parents took me to a city wide rummage a couple of weeks ago, they said they could have given me away 5 times, so many people wanted to take me home with them……I am just one big lovable lug!!!

Please check me out, I real need good solid forever home.

“Hugs & Kisses”

Dudley

They call me “Goosie Lucy”, I am about 2 years old. I was relinquished from a shelter where I had puppies that I refused. Hey, I am a Puppy myself, so can you blame me? I love all the petting I get, and give kisses back…I kissed my foster Mom all the way home, when she picked me up. 



It took me a few days to settle in because I wasn’t happy when everyone left the house, so I had to be crated the first few days. Now I get the run of the house and am getting along fabulously with the 2 other small dogs in the house. There are also 2 teenage boys and a guinea pig that I don’t mind.

I am house-broke, and even give a signal by going to the door. I am learning to play with toys, though I am quite good with my teeth and can take most toys apart quickly. I like to chase balls, but don’t return them right now. My foster Mom just stands and laughs at me when I and the other 2 dogs run around the back yard chasing each other until we are all pooped out. I am a good girl, and settle down quickly for the evening. I’m very laid back, and my foster Mom can do anything she wants – look at my ears, touch my paws, roll me on my back…I submit easily. I walk pretty good on a leash. I don’t bother anyone when they are eating, like the two other little dogs in the house do. I just lie on my bed and ignore everyone. I have a nice deep bark, and sometimes when I stretch I make funny grumph noises. Mom says I could fit into almost any situation.

Hello Labbie Lovers!!!

My name is Nip (more on that story later) and I am a 2-3 year old lab that was rescued by L.E.A.R.N. in mid-April. I came to my foster home with excitement because I was going to play with a 4-legged step brother and sister!! I was not kennel trained at first, but now I am (it helped that my foster parents fed me in my kennel). I was an owner surrender from a shelter (here is where you might want the Kleenex). I was found by Animal Control in Schuyler County, IL where they picked me up and kept me for a week. One of the employees was talking to a friend about me and that friend knew my owner. So they contacted her and I was brought home safe and sound. Two weeks later, I find myself back at the Animal Control shelter in Schuyler County. The employees there remembered who my owner was and called for her to pick me up. But no one came. I waited for two weeks for my owner to come get me and she never came. You see, during the two weeks while I was waiting, the employee who knew the friend who knew the owner collected the story behind why I was never picked up.

My original owner, the husband of the woman who picked me up the first time, passed away a year ago. I had a brother named Tuck (hence why I got the name Nip) who was hit by a car a month before I was in the shelter and did not survive. The reason I kept running away was two-fold…I was looking for my male owner and my brother. The female owner said that my brother and I were his dog, and she wanted nothing to do with us when her husband passed away, which is why I was not picked up.

Putting the sad story behind me, I am great with other dogs and cats. I ride fantastic in the car and do not need to be put in a kennel at night-time. I am really cute when you pay me attention because I will “smile” at you. I also love to get belly-rubs. I will lay down on my back with my feet in the air, waiting for you to scratch me!! I am a loyal dog with me being by your side where ever you go…even if it is to the bathroom!! I am up-to-date on all my vaccines and ready to be adopted. Will you be that special person who will bring me into your home and love me?

Labbie kisses to you!!
Nip – tag # 2146

Hello! My name is Squall! I like playing with my canine foster sister! I’m not so sure what to do with my feline foster brothers on the other hand. They never seem to want to play!



I sleep well in my crate and already know a few commands. I’m very polite about my meals, I sit and wait until I’m told it’s okay to eat. Being a puppy, I’m still getting the hang of potty training. My foster mom says I do like to bark, so I need a home that doesn’t mind me talking! I’m also afraid of being left alone, so I won’t do well if you have neighbors who don’t like noise! My foster parents are trying to work with me on that! I really make up for all that talking with my snuggling and playing! I’m very sweet!