…Hundreds of Japanese beetles had infested the small river birch in my backyard and had already nearly defoliated the top 50% of the tree. Those Bastards!!!!!
I didn’t have any ornamental landscape insecticide handy, but I did have some general liquid insecticide available that I use to spray around my doors and windows to keep ants out. I used the spray to hit those little punks direct and was able to stave off the attack until I could get the right product and apply that evening.
Now I would NEVER recommend you use products on your trees and shrubs that are not designed or approved for that use. I am merely letting you know how serious this problem can become if left for more than 24 hrs.

In case you are wondering, Jap Beetles are the adult stage of that nasty grub worm that infests and destroys lawns in the late summer and fall. These little buggers are the “perfect storm of bugs” as they damage everything underground as well as high up in the trees.

I can usually judge how bad the Japanese Beetle problem will be in a given year based on how many of them end up drowned in my pool skimmer, and this year has been the worst in my unscientific records. If you live near a cornfield like I do, you will have an even bigger problem.
Jap Beetles are “skeltonizing insects,” meaning they eat all of the soft leaf tissue out from between the leaf veins. As you can imagine, this weakens the affected plant because a leaf with no surface area can’t photosynthesize properly, robbing the tree or shrub of sugars, eventually killing it.

The best control for these Japanese beetle infestations is to use a product that works systemically, meaning the root system of the plant takes the product in, creating an effective “shield” when beetles attempt to feed. Bayer Advanced makes a great systemic control that you mix with water and pour around the root system of the most vulnerable trees and shrubs. However, if you have a case like mine where you need immediate control, Spectricide makes a product called “Immunox” that works well as a direct kill by spraying it on the leaves. It comes in premixed spray bottles, or you can buy concentrate and mix in a pump sprayer for bigger jobs.

I recommend buying the concentrate, mixing in a pump sprayer and covering the leaves on the top AND bottom throughout the hot months of summer. Three treatments of Immunox spaced 3 weeks apart should be sufficient… BUT READ THE LABEL before you go doing everything I say! Keep in mind that beetles will attack young trees first as they are more tender!

On a final note, those “beetle bags” you can get will do a great job of attracting, trapping and killing Japanese Beetles, but you have to wonder how many bites they take of your precious and expensive landscaping on their way to the party in the bag?!?! Those bags just might effectively create a block party of beetles, eating up everything in their path on their way to destruction in the bag as they die with a full stomach!

Here is a list of plants that are very susceptible to Japanese Beetle attacks.
1. American linden
2. Crabapple
3. Apple
4. Japanese maple
5. Norway maple
6. Rose
7. Crape myrtle
8. Pin oak
9. Birch
10. Purple Plum, Apricot, Cherry, Peach

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I’d like to introduce you to my newest “favorite” summer flower in the garden, the Asiatic Lily.

The Best Ways to Grow Lilies in Your Garden

Asiatic and Oriental Lilies will bring beauty, color and fragrance to your garden for many years with very little maintenance. If you do your research, you can purchase varieties that bloom in early June, while others flower in July and August, still others into September.

Traditionally, gardeners purchase lilies as bulbs which are planted in Fall, but I have had great luck buying ones grown in pots over at Home Depot or Lowe’s. I just look for ones that are about to bloom, dig a hole, plant them and leave them alone. This way I get instant lily flowers, and the next year they return in greater grandeur!

Another great way to start your Asiatic lily collection is to “steal” them from friends and family. The Asiatics pictured here are from my friend Dave’s house. He got most of these from his mom’s already established lily garden. He just waited until fall, dug up the bulbs from her plants, split them and took the “daughter” bulbs home and planted them! Viola! Free lilies! He’s got multiple varieties growing alongside his back deck where they peer through the railing while making a nice border to his nice lawn! (gotta love that lawn too!) Thanks Dave!

Planting Asiatic lily bulbs in the fall time is nearly fool proof. Dig a hole about 6 inches deep, drop them in and cover with fresh soil and mulch. Even if you plant them upside down, they will grow perfectly the next year!

Lily Care

It is best to choose a well-drained location with at least half a day of sunshine. If it’s too shady, the stems will stretch and lean towards the sun, whereas I prefer my lilies to remain compact. Most Asiatics top out around 3′ tall while Orientals grow taller.

Lilies love full sun, as long as the bulbs are deep enough to keep cool when temperatures rise above 85 degrees. They should also be mulched over during the long Chicagoland winter.

Look for a spot that is the first to dry out after rain. Lilies can be bothered by fungus that spots the leaves in prolonged cool, wet weather. If you do see brown spots on the leaves, use any fungicide recommended for roses.

Be sure to cut back lily stems when they turn yellow later in the season after the bulbs have been recharged by photosynthesis. You can also fertilize your lilies (bulbs) in the fall using bone meal and a scattering of Milorganite. Composted leaves from Oak or Ash trees work well also and provide protection from harsh winter freezes.

Lilies will gradually increase (naturalize) by division of the large main bulbs and by growth of small bulbs along the old below-ground stem. If the clumps that form become too thick to make large stems, lift and divide them in September or October.

Here is a list of some more common Asiatic and Oriental lilies by name, color, their normal full grown heights, and when they bloom in the Midwest zone 5:

Asiatic:
“Enchantment” orange, 2 - 3′ June
“Connecticut King” yellow, 3 - 4′ June
“Corsica” pink, 3′ June/July
“Crete Asiatic” deep pink, 3 - 4′ June/July
“Dawn Star” cream 2 - 3′ July

Oriental:
“Black Beauty” dark red, 5 - 6′ July/August
“Journey’s End” deep pink, 4 - 5′ August
“Stargazer” crimson-red, 2 - 3′ August
“Yellow Ribbons” white/yellow, 3 - 5′ August
“Casa Blanca” pure white 4 - 5′ August/September

I grew up in Florida, but was unable to identify most of these flowers as they are unfamiliar to me living up here in NWI, Zone 5. I did recognize the beautiful pink Hibiscus flowers that were spilling over someone’s garden wall in Cozumel, Mexico. As for the others, your help would be appreciated if you can ID them for me.

Each of these flowers was photographed as I looked over or thru a fence into someone’s tropical garden. I just love the fact that gardeners exist in all countries all over the world, and I wanted to see what tropical gardening produces.

There is also a picture here of a 6″ long beetle we saw in Jamaica! I have no clue what it is, but I sure wouldn’t want it in my landscape! I also included a picture of a peaceful palm tree on Seven Mile Beach in Grand Cayman with the cruise ship off in the distance. I have always been fascinated with the life and culture in the Cayman Islands (British West Indies) and was very happy to finally visit there.

Your comments are welcome! Enjoy the beautiful pictures.