LimZhu Photography

Zen & The City

2011-03-20T14:11:00.027+08:00

I was in Japan recently just before the earthquake and tsunami hit the north east of Japan. Japan is not only a very photogenic country, it is also a very inspiring place. The art and architecture, the tradition and culture, the modern and new, everything comes together perfectly! And its people are the most warm and friendly I've ever met. So it saddens me to see images of devastation in Japan. The Japanese people don't deserve this.

I would like to dedicate this album to the citizens of Japan, especially Fukushima 50, the bravest men and women who are working round the clock to avert a nuclear disaster. My thoughts and prayers are with you and your loved ones. Japan will rise again, stronger and better! All photographs © 2011 LimZhu Photography.

The Twenty Niners

2010-12-03T18:53:00.007+08:00

When I was in Rajasthan, I took a safari excursion to a Bishnoi village. Bishnoi is a unique sect founded by Guru Jambheshwar who laid down 29 principles to be followed by the sect. Bish means 20 and noi means 9. Hence, Bishnoi literally means Twenty-niners. Strictly vegetarians, the eco-loving villagers are against killing animals and felling trees. They also take great pains to protect and conserve the black buck antelopes which are believed to be their guru’s manifestation after death.

God's Own Country?

2010-11-30T12:08:00.014+08:00

I love the rugged beauty of Rajasthan, but I can't say the same for Kerala. Honestly speaking, Kerala is over-hyped. It's old school in a bad way. Totally unlike what you see in Kerala's tourism brochures. I expected Fort Cochin to exude old world charm, but it failed to impress. The famous Chinese fishing nets look dirty in real life. Vembanad Lake is scenic with gorgeous sunsets and sunrise, but that's about it. If you want an exotic beach destination rich in history, I recommend Sri Lanka instead. All photos copyright © 2010 LimZhu Photography.

Jaisalmer The Golden City

2010-11-29T12:37:00.012+08:00

The Jaisalmer Fort in Jaisalmer is a living fort where you can find shops, hotels, age old havelis (homes) inside. It gets very crowded on weekends and festivals.

By the way, my 17-85mm lens was damaged during my trip so I could only use my macro 100mm lens to take these pics. Which explains why all the shots are so tight.

Jodhpur The Sun City

2010-11-28T22:45:00.015+08:00

I recently travelled to India - Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Fort Cochin/Kerala.

My favorite is Jodhpur. The people, especially the children of Jodhpur, aka the Sun City are really friendly and photogenic. These pics were shot in the walled city of Jodhpur and Sardar Market, "a full-on bustling Indian market with a barely contained riot of sights, sounds and stinks" (Wikitravel)

Ghosts

2010-09-21T20:31:00.008+08:00

No visit to Phnom Penh is complete without a visit to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. And for the uninitiated, a word of caution: Tuol Sleng is certainly no Disneyland. The museum (Former Khmer Rouge S-21 Prison) is made up of four nondescript school buildings. Each building was the actual site of unimaginable atrocities. The original tools/apparatus used by the Khmer Rouge regime to torture the prisoners are on display. So are the interrogation rooms and cells that housed these poor souls – their restless spirits still linger the desolate grounds… you could just feel their presence!

I planned to spend an hour at the museum, but ended up more than two hours there. And mind you, I am not a fan of gory movies or ghost stories. I am actually very faint hearted. The torture rooms and cells reeked of death, so I didn’t spend too much time in there. But at the gallery where thousands and thousands of mug shots of actual prisoners were on display, I couldn’t help but look at each and every one of them. While many looked afraid (and resigned to their fate), there were also many who smiled for the camera – obviously they were too innocent to know what was in store for them… and there were many children! My heart sank. How could they do such a thing? By taking away the children’s right to live as children! Their childhood robbed in broad daylight and their lives drowned in the mass graves at Choeung Ek.

For a tourist attraction, Tuol Sleng is unusually dead (pun unintended) silent. Visitors, even the noisy tourist-bus types, looked at the displays silently, almost all with a heavy heart and a perturbed look. Indeed, it’s hard to be unaffected by the sheer horror of the events that took place there. It’s that horrific!

As I left the museum, a middle-aged amputee approached me at the gate and asked for money. While I empathized with his predicament, I feel that one should not exploit the situation to gain something. And one should not exploit the many innocent children who need a roof over their heads, good education, healthcare and proper nutrition by promising them money in exchange for sex or slavery.

The ghosts of Tuol Sleng still haunt many in Cambodia today. And the legacy of Khmer Rouge continues to live on. While we can never erase the past, we can build a better and brighter future for Cambodian children… Do you care enough to help make this possible?

Old Bangkok

2010-08-19T16:18:00.017+08:00

Rachamankha… The Rose of Chiang Mai

2010-06-25T11:43:00.006+08:00

If Chiang Mai is the Rose of the North, then Rachamankha is the Rose of Chiang Mai. The boutique hotel is so fabulous (Angelina Jolie was a guest, so it has to be great) that I have stayed there twice!

A Relais & Chateux member, Rachamankha is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hotels in the world. Its stunning Lanna-style architecture has been featured in countless coffee table books and interior design magazines. Every part of the hotel has a unique Lanna decoration be it a lantern, porcelain vases, birdcage or wall hangings. You’d feel like you’re in an art gallery.

The rooms are spacious and comfortable with simple but elegant Lanna-style furniture. It has amenities similar to a 5-star hotel – a DVD player, a mini-bar, quality toiletries (including an insect repellant made of essential oils to keep the mozzies at bay) and turndown service.

There are plenty of spaces to chill out at – the pool, the main lounge and a study cum library where you can help yourself to free flow of cognac. Or you can grab a book and spend the morning or afternoon in one of the gardens where beautiful flowers are in bloom.

At night, the hotel is very tranquil and atmospheric – there is hardly any sound from outside traffic, just peace and quiet. Its customer service is efficient, professional, warm and friendly. And I must add the staff members are all very good looking.

Rachamankha has both style and substance, and truly deserves to be in Conde Nast Traveler’s Hot List for 2005.

The Sukhothai… Days of Splendor Gone By

2010-06-22T10:55:00.010+08:00

In my last blog entry, I wrote that it is safe to travel to Thailand. In fact, now’s a great time to head to the Kingdom as virtually everything in Bangkok is on sale. Hotels have slashed their rates by up to 50 percent (some even offering free nights like Baan Pra Nond), while retailers are wooing back customers with massive discounts and freebies.

On my recent Bangkok trip, I extended one more night to stay at The Sukhothai which is running a “Welcome Back” promotion. The special rates include free mini-bar, WiFi, breakfast and limousine transfer to the airport. A steal I reckon!

The Sukhothai, one of the leading hotels in Thailand (if not the world), is designed by renowned architects, Edward Tuttle and Kerry Hill. Built in early 1990s, The Sukhothai’s architecture with its minimalist décor, mirrored bathrooms and zen gardens was considered cutting edge at the time. But now it looks a little dated and uninspiring. The management knows this for a fact and has started refurbishment to its superior rooms. When the hotel’s long overdue overhaul is completed, I'm sure guests will experience days of splendor at The Sukhothai again.

Return of Ratchaprasong

2010-06-19T23:21:00.013+08:00

Today is the one month anniversary of the 19 May 2010 crackdown which saw the Thai military successfully recapturing Ratchaprasong, Bangkok’s commercial heart, from anti-government Red Shirt protesters.

I was in Bangkok recently to photograph the devastation that the Red Shirts have left behind in Ratchaprasong. Gone are Siam Theatre (an institution in Bangkok) and CentralWorld, South East Asia’s second largest shopping mall. Coincidentally, CentralWorld used to be called World Trade Centre before its billion-baht renovation in 2006. Like the World Trade Centre in New York, CentralWorld was also destroyed by “terrorists”.

All seemed calm and normal as I walked along the streets in Ratchaprasong, but I could sense that many Bangkokians remain guarded. My friends in Bangkok confirmed this when they told me that nobody dares talk about politics in public anymore. The taxi drivers (most of whom are Red) would used to curse and swear at Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva and his government during the turmoil, but now they just quietly drive their taxis.

According to CRES (Centre for the Resolution of Emergency Situation), there are about 90 dead and 1500 injured in the recent clashes. The Red Shirts are pointing their fingers at the government for causing the deaths, but the government blames it on the “men in black” militia. So who’s right and who’s wrong? One thing’s for sure – this is not a straightforward poor vs. elite class war as misleadingly reported by CNN and BBC, it’s much more complicated and one has to dig deep into Thailand’s culture and history to understand what’s really going on. From what I’ve read and heard, one man is unquestionably fomenting the Red Shirt movement and he doesn’t seem to be letting up…

With Thailand’s worst political crisis in modern history over (or is it?), is it safe to travel to the Land of Smiles? The answer is a resounding yes!

Amanfayun – The Bumpy Path to Luxury

2010-05-06T22:39:00.012+08:00

Amanfayun in Hangzhou is Amanresorts’ newest baby. Since its opening in December 2009, it has received mixed reviews.

First the bouquets. Surrounded by lush greenery, creeks and mountains, Amanfayun is breathtaking. And it looks nothing like your typical resort or hotel. The rooms are housed in separate buildings (century-old farm houses), many with their own courtyard. The original structures are left intact, only the interiors are refurbished with mod cons. The sprawling property is like a beautiful set in a Zhang Yimou’s period movie. Spring is the best time to go when the flowers are in full bloom, adding splashes of color to the already picturesque landscape. In the day, you can hear birds singing their happy song. When night falls, it is so quiet you can hear a pin drop.

Now the brickbats. Because it is located in a public park, Fayun Pathway, its grounds are open to non-guests which mean tourists can walk about freely outside your room. Hate to say this, but it feels like a theme park. This has irked many paying guests, especially Amanjunkies who have come to expect total exclusivity and privacy from Amanresorts. I was lucky that my room is situated far away from the main pathway so I was spared from gawking tourists.

Amanfayun’s service compared to other Aman properties is not quite up to par. The security guards manning the public areas can be brusque at times, while the restaurant service can be slow and the food unexciting (and terribly expensive). I understand that teething problems are the norm for any new hotels, so I just closed one eye and happily took these pictures.

Bare to Basics

2010-05-04T14:00:00.011+08:00

If you’re looking for a different holiday experience, where there’s adventure for adrenalin junkies and quiet time for introverts, Naked Retreats is it.

The eco-conscious and animal friendly retreat is located in 395 Village, Moganshan. Set amid unspoiled bamboo forest and alongside running streams are double-storey bungalows for family and friends and self-contained studios (two were converted from pig sty) for honeymooners or single travelers. While there are no concierge or butler services, ayis are on hand to tidy your room and cook delicious (and very large portion) meals.

The rooms are fairly basic, but cozy and comfortable. To be honest, I thought the retreat is a little rough around the edges (grubby shower curtains and dusty corners), but its stunning and serene surroundings more than make up for it.

A Misty Morning in Moganshan Part 3

2010-04-27T11:38:00.005+08:00

By popular demand, here are more Moganshan pics. The last picture was taken at 395 Village where I stayed for the night. The bare and basic retreat, aptly named Naked, is really wonderful – comfortable accommodation, delicious food and friendly people (and pets). Watch out for my review and pics which will be posted here soon!

A Misty Morning in Moganshan Part 2

2010-04-26T12:30:00.007+08:00

I took these pictures at 5.30am. The day before was rainy and gloomy. So I was very glad when the sun (finally) rose and shone its glorious rays!

Fresh from a good night’s slumber, I lugged my camera bag and climbed up the mountain (through a bamboo forest, nice but had to watch out for venomous bamboo snakes) to the town centre which was strangely deserted except for a stray dog roaming the streets. “Great! I have the whole town to myself,” I said to myself as I happily snapped away.

I am really pleased with these pictures. As they say, the early bird catches the worm or in my case the best light!

A Misty Morning in Moganshan Part 1

2010-04-25T12:50:00.008+08:00

“The skies of Italy, the verdure of Japan, the grandeur of the Rockies” this quote from North China Daily News, 1936, which waxed lyrical about Moganshan is certainly true!

While not many foreigners know about Moganshan, it is very popular with the locals (mostly Shanghai urbanites) who come here to escape from the heat in the summer. The mountain is covered in snow in winter, but still a wonderful time to spend the holidays. Located in Zhejiang province and three hours drive from Shanghai, Moganshan boasts many European-style villas, some left dilapidated, while some have been restored and turned into guesthouses.

Legend has it that a swordsmith, Gan Jiang, came to the mountain in 722-481 BC to forge and temper a pair of special swords in a stream that runs from one of the many clear mountain springs. Gan’s wife was called Mo Ye. Hence, the name Moganshan. Today that same stream from which the sword was made is Moganshan’s main tourist attraction, the Sword Pond.

Blessed with verdant bamboo forests and misty mountain vistas, Moganshan is a great place for hikers and a sanctuary for weary souls.

Magnolia Bed & Breakfast… A Lovely Blossom in the French Concession

2010-04-21T22:22:00.011+08:00

If you want to be in the heart of The French Concession, the place to stay is Magnolia Bed & Breakfast. Tucked away in a quiet little street just off busy HuaiHai Lu, the green-colored terrace house is a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle. The nondescript exterior may not look appealing, but once you step inside it’s all chic and arty in an unpretentious way.

I stayed there for two nights in April and was given the only available (and the biggest) room in the house, Ink Water Suite, due to a last minute extension by one of the guests… who’s complaining? The generous suite has a balcony with great views, an open concept bathroom and a walk-in closet albeit tiny! It is also the only room with a LCD TV. The other four rooms on the lower floors have a queen-sized bed each, and although on the smallish side are quite adequate and comfy for single travelers.

Breakfast, a choice of Western or Chinese, is served in the living room on the ground floor. It is also here that you can surf the Internet or help yourself to a cup of coffee from the complimentary Nespresso machine. Or you can just chill in the adjoining library cum lounge with a good book. Or better yet, brush up on your Mandarin and have a chat with the friendly ayi over a bowl of steaming soya milk.

Magnolia is the brainchild of Miranda Yao and Norris Chen. The dynamic wife and husband duo also runs the renowned cooking studio, The Kitchen At. I checked it out one afternoon – it’s very impressive I must say. The students I met there could not stop raving about its cooking classes. Wait till they stay at Magnolia… they will definitely love it a whole bunch like I did!

I Love Shanghai Part 2

2010-04-19T15:10:00.009+08:00

One of the most picturesque streets in the French Concession is Fuxing Xilu (see last pic). The district not only boasts a graceful ambience, it also has a colorful history. It was once home to revolutionaries (Song Qingling, Sun Yatsen and Zhou Enlai lived here), triads, whores and writers. Many years on, the French Concession still remains the most happening place in Shanghai with its lion’s share of trendy restaurants, pubs, boutiques, art galleries and publishing houses. Bohemians will feel right at home here.

While the French Concession is quaint, the Bund is more spectacular and showy with its grandiose buildings. The Broadway Mansions (third last pic) at the northern end of the Bund, used to house the Foreign Correspondents’ Club in the 1930s and was one of Shanghai’s tallest buildings in its heyday.

I Love Shanghai Part 1

2010-04-18T12:43:00.010+08:00

This was my second visit to Shanghai. My first was in 2005. It’s only been five years, but I was amazed how the metropolis has transformed or rather outdone itself! While the futuristic skyscrapers are impressive, I was more awe-struck by the historic architecture of the Bund and French Concession which gives Shanghai an old-world European vibe.

The French Concession with its Tudor mansions and Art Deco apartments, is undoubtedly my most favorite district in Shanghai. Pedestrian-friendly and aesthetically pleasing, I enjoyed taking leisurely walks along the tree-lined avenues. Early evenings and mornings are the best time to explore its nooks and crannies. On Julu Lu, Fumin Lu and Changle Lu, you’ll find Shanghai’s hippest restaurants (they’re always full so reservation is a must) and specialty shops. The townhouses on Julu Xilu are especially lovely… how I wish could live in one of them!

Nicknamed the Pearl of the Orient and Paris of the East, Shanghai is a city of contrasts where east meets west and old versus new (the Bund literally faces off with ultra-modern Pudong) which I’ve tried to depict in my photos. In my book, Shanghai is one of the most exciting cities in the world and you can’t help but fall in love with it!

11 Days in China

2010-04-16T11:31:00.003+08:00

It’s supposed to be springtime in Shanghai, Hangzhou and Moganshan, but it felt like winter when I was there recently. Grey skies, strong wings and icy rain dominated most of the 11 days. Only three days had very brief bursts of sunshine. And to make things worse I came down with the stomach flu and spent an afternoon at a local hospital for observation. I’m glad it was nothing serious.

Hailed as the Paris of the East, Shanghai is indeed a very cosmopolitan and photogenic city. A three-hour drive away from the hustle and bustle of Shanghai is Moganshan. Blessed with scenic mountain views, Moganshan is a great place for peace and quiet, rest and relaxation. While Hangzhou, China’s number one tourism destination is really that! So if you’re not into sharing public places with busloads of tourists, then the Heavenly City is not you cup of Longjing tea (a famous green tea from Hangzhou). In case you’re wondering, no, I did not enjoy Hangzhou at all. But I love Shanghai and Moganshan heaps!

Baan Pra Nond… Home Sweet Home

2010-03-02T12:23:00.011+08:00

If you’re tired of soulless big chain hotels, maybe an intimate B&B is more your cup of tea?

Nestled among skyscrapers in busy Sathorn, lies the very charming Baan Pra Nond. Originally the residence of a Supreme Court judge, the 70 year old Thai Colonial house is lovingly brought back to life by Tasma and Jason Cotsmire. The B&B with its yellow and green walls, is tastefully decorated with original teak wood furniture and sepia-tinted family photos. Even the switches in the main building are old school.

I stayed at Baan Pra Nond (BPN) for the second time when I spent the Chinese New Year in Bangkok recently. Like the first time, I enjoyed every moment there especially chatting with the affable owners Tasma and Jason. While there are no concierge and turndown service, BPN offers a homey ambience and personalized service that you can’t find at tourist or business hotels.

Thanks to its very central location (five minutes’ walk to Surasak BTS), Baan Pra Nond is a welcome retreat for weary travelers who want to get away from the maddening crowd, but still want to be near to all the action. I’m sure Khun Tasma’s grandfather would be really proud of what his granddaughter has done to his place – home sweet home in the Kingdom’s frenetic metropolis.

The Bhuthorn… Sweet Dreams Are Made of These

2010-03-01T09:01:00.012+08:00

At The Bhuthorn, B&B means Beautiful & Brilliant.

I knew I would love The Bhuthorn the moment I stepped into the century old shophouse. But I didn’t know I would fall head over heels for it! Restored to its former glory by Khun Direk and Khun Chitlada, architects turned hotelier, The Bhuthorn is a labor of love. From the vintage furniture and objet d'art to the fresh flowers (Direk arranges them himself) and quality toiletries (Chitlada handpicked the best Jasmine scented products which another legendary Bangkok hotel also uses), one can see that the owners put all their heart and soul into everything. The attention to detail and personalized service straight from the heart impeccable! In fact, the Bhuthorn feels more like a cozy and chic abode with all the creature comforts than your run of the mill B&B.

With only three rooms (each individually decorated and named after three Thai princes), a stay at The Bhuthorn is an unforgettable experience – you’re transported back to a bygone era. The B&B’s setting in a quaint heritage-listed part of old Bangkok is akin to a movie set. In the evening as I looked out the window into the moonlit square below, I could just picture a Thai Romeo and Juliet whispering sweet nothings to each other as they stroll along the quiet row of shophouses. It was like a beautiful dream which I wished would never end…

The next morning I awoke to a scrumptious traditional Thai breakfast (Chitlada makes a mean caffè latte by the way), followed by a yummy coconut ice cream from Nátthàphawn (the famous ice cream stall happens to be The Bhuthorn’s next door neighbor!) in the lovely and leafy courtyard. All too soon it was time to check out.

I knew I was going to miss The Bhuthorn when I stepped into the taxi and waved goodbye to Khun Chitlada. But what I didn’t know and only know now is that I miss it so badly to want to fly back to Bangkok and relive The Bhuthorn magic again and again. Khun Direk and Khun Chitlada have created a truly special place, one which every discerning traveler or architecture enthusiast who appreciates excellent design and heartfelt hospitality should not miss.

Lost in Hanoi 2

2010-01-24T11:26:00.008+08:00

These pictures of Hanoi were taken at the Old Quarter and Temple of Literature. The latter is a little too touristy for my liking. Visit only if you’re into traditional architecture.

Lost in Hanoi

2010-01-23T14:28:00.015+08:00

I travelled to Hanoi recently for some R&R, but ended up more stressed! The city is crowded, chaotic and CRAZY! I hate to say this, but to me Hanoi is a very uninspiring city. Traffic is a killer (Hanoians don’t seem to know what traffic lights are for or they just don’t give a damn?), everything looks very old and dated (many buildings desperately need a new coat of paint) and Hoan Kiem Lake, what can I say? It’s OVERRATED! You definitely can’t find peace and quiet here. But if you’re into outdoor aerobics (with Vietnamese techno music) and cheesy wedding shoots, then you’ll have a field day here. I must admit it’s quite an eye opener.

Anyway, Hanoi can be quite photogenic if you know where to look. Caveat #1 – exploring the city on foot is not an option. You have to brave speeding motorcycles, flying spits and potholes. Caveat #2 – Hanoi is not as pretty as my pictures look. It took a lot of patience and luck to get these shots.

Amantaka - Luxury Comes to Luang Prabang

2009-11-09T11:39:00.014+08:00

Amanresorts has a knack for picking the most exotic destinations to house their properties. Their latest Amantaka is situated in the heart of Luang Prabang. A former provincial hospital, Amantaka is beautifully restored, retaining its original French colonial architecture. I’ve stayed at a few Aman properties, and I must say Amantaka is one of my favorites. It’s an oasis of calm, nostalgia, romance and luxury – a hotel aficionado’s dream come true. Amantaka has definitely elevated Luang Prabang’s hip status like what Amankora has done for Bhutan, and Amangalla and Amanwella for Sri Lanka.

My sincere thanks to Gary, Filipe, Chittima, Nisaya and all staff for their wonderful hospitality.

Lost in Luang Prabang 3

2009-11-06T12:46:00.004+08:00

My favourite spot in Luang Prabang is the quiet stretch of road along the Nam Khan River (it’s nicest in the morning and evening). Here you can see locals going about their daily life. The Mekong side is a lot busier but it boasts a stunning sunset.