http://www.lipulse.com/ en info@lipulse.com Copyright 2015 2015-05-11T13:29:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/quito-always-the-right-season http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/quito-always-the-right-season#When:16:50:00Z Quito’s Plaza San Francisco When the comets were busy delivering the chemistry kernels for life to the pre-human Earth, the heavenly dust that landed on what is now Quito seems to have been enlivened by pisco sours. Quito’s hills and grooviness recall San Francisco-but at one-tenth the price and in Spanish. Perched on a 9,300-foot plateau and encircled by mountains, Ecuador’s capital is the America’s largest preserved colonial city. A bustling place, yet, at the same time, a lesson in patience. Quito’s observant, hard-working locals interact with visitors like they’ve got all day to catch up. One woman, in particular, an herbal medicine healer, insisted that I sit down and repair my jetlag. The modern world continuing to mingle with ancient traditions is commonplace here. This herbal medicine doctor will cure your jetlag—or hangover Quito is moving past its reputation as a stopover enroute to the Galapagos, having spent the last decade reinventing itself with a half-billion investment in its Old Town, where it doesn’t take long for the international traveler to notice the dramatic changes in cleanliness, infrastructure, street lighting, and focus on pedestrian safety. The elongated (32x4-mile) city overflows with fantastical Baroque, neo-Gothic, and Renaissance churches, handmade-hat shops, chic craft stores, interactive chocolaterias, homemade-sorbet parlors, and herbal-medicine laboratories—where all ills, including hangovers, are cured via herbal rubs or drinkable concoctions. There are also museums galore. La Compañía, a Jesuit church and one of Ecuador’s most elaborate, is decorated with gold leaf, gilded plaster, fantastical wood carvings—and a waist-high adjustable mirror facing skyward so you can look at the dazzling ceiling without craning your neck. Behind nearly every street-side façade in this archetypal Spanish village is an inviting colonial courtyard. You only need to step inside a few of these courtyards and let the magic happen, whether it be shopping, museum going, or dining. Graceful Ecuadorians haven’t forgotten to breath, or nap, thus, they have time to greet you. Courtyard in Quito Ecuador’s Vice Minister of Tourism, Dominick Hamilton, interestingly a former travel writer, summed up Ecuador’s multiple World Heritage status in four words: “All in one place,” referring to it having the best of South America in a nutshell—featuring wildly megadiverse ecosystems, culture, and cuisine. Only one thing is predictable here. The sun rises and sets every day at six and the temperature is consistently between 70 and 75 degrees. In 1978, Quito was declared the first UNESCO World Heritage Site city and is considered the largest and best preserved historic center in the Americas. It defines highland calm, a South American Shangri-la with minimal machismo, only pure living among its historic riches. Temperate Quito has no need for AC or heat, but both are available. It also has delicious tap water. Casa Gangotena Some historic hotels thrive with multiple personalities. Casa Gangotena, inspired by a Venetian palace, is an imposing three-story 31-room white mansion with a classic courtyard garden and well-placed potted palm trees, tin ceilings, commanding views of Plaza San Francisco, and five-star everything. Originally the residence of several Republican-era presidents until it was destroyed by a 1914 fire, the manor was rebuilt in 1926 by the influential Gangotenas, whose lineage included industrialists, politicians, landowners, academics, and poets. Stately and exquisite for a boutique hotel, it was recently restored into ultra-classic digs—your stab at Ecuadorian royalty. Casa Gangotena guest bathroom When you enter your room it announces comfortable—contemporary design merging with antique furnishings. Some of the guestroom bathrooms are bigger than some New York City apartments. Ascending another flight on the hotel’s grand stone spiral staircase you discover a third-floor terrace with sweeping 360-degree views of the hilly city. Up there, you can reflect on the adjacent plaza’s incredible history. Casa Gangotena, once the site of an Inca temple, sits atop the eternal heart of Quito, as both the Inca and Spanish settlers used the plaza as a vital open-air market. On my way back down to the lobby, I overheard a guest in the wood-paneled library discussing how the veteran staff makes “five-star service look easy.” Casa Gangotena’s spiral staircase Casa Gangotena is also an epicenter for Quito’s most inventive culinary creations. Set within its courtyard restaurant’s glassed-in patio with art deco furniture and ceiling murals, award-winning Chef Andrés Dávila showcases enhanced traditional recipes from the Andes to the coast. Many dishes offer new twists with various corn grains, including a seared sea bass in black corn flour. Varieties of corn even find their way into paico, Quito’s traditional herb-infused potato soup—this is a soup-centric destination, and one of the it places to dine in Ecuador. Guayasamin’s art campus My unexpected Quito highlight occurred while visiting painter Guayasamin’s Chapel of the Man, an airline hanger-sized modern art museum sharing the artist’s (1919-99) gigantic macabre representations of the cyclical genocides that have devastated South America. On a much lighter note, next door is Guayasamin’s intimately preserved home and studio. Touring his palace brings you inside the mind and heart of this obsessed, quirky master. Upon seeing his living rooms, elaborate bathrooms, and bedroom, and seems-like-he’s-still-working-here work studios brings his genius back to life—and you start to like him. Born and raised very poor as the first of 10 children, his understanding of poverty remained a critical motivation behind his art. An in-studio cycling video of Guayasamin painting famed classical Spanish guitarist Paco de Lucia’s portrait overflows with emotional and waggish moments that drive home just how colorful Ecuador’s Picasso really was. Considered by some as South America’s artistic rough diamond, Guayasamin now moves me every day, as one of his paintings now graces my wall. Down the road from Guayasamin’s creative campus is the Olga Fisch Folklore Museum and Gallery. Olga was one of Guayasamin’s early teachers. The Hungarian immigrant arrived in Ecuador at the age of 40 in the 1930’s and never stopped inspiring locals until her death. An artist, stylist, and collector, Olga had a visionary’s appreciation for Ecuadorian folk art and crafts. Her influence on local, archetypal folk artists endured for half a century—thus elevating that style of crafts into fine art. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Find Casa Gangotena here. Contact Metropolitan Touring for (at least) expert tour guides—they can also arrange pretty much anything in Ecuador, including private guided tours, hotels, lodges and Galapagos travel. Quito is the launchpad for ventures into all of Ecuador’s megadiversity. Also, find your way to La Cuchara de San Marcos, a vintage-feeling organic vegetarian restaurant with craft beer and wine that’s blended into a cultural center. La Gloria Restaurant is in an artsy neighborhood, and it won’t disappoint. And they’ll be no route canals getting here. Many airlines fly direct into Quito from the U.S.A. Quito is also kid-friendly. Stroll colonial Quito on Sundays when roads are only open to pedestrians and bicycles. Kids love the variety of piñata and children’s costume stores—not to mention Quito’s version of Willy Wonka with many candy, chocolate, and ice-cream makers. Quito, Ecuador Quito’s Plaza San Francisco When the comets were busy delivering the chemistry kernels for life to the pre-human Earth, the heavenly dust that landed on what is now Quito seems to have been enlivened by pisco sours. Quito’s hills and grooviness recall San Francisco-but at one-tenth the price and in Spanish. Perched on a 9,300-foot plateau and encircled by mountains, Ecuador’s capital is the America’s largest preserved colonial city. A bustling place, yet, at the same time, a lesson in patience. Quito’s observant, hard-working locals interact with visitors like they’ve got all day to catch up. One woman, in particular, an herbal medicine healer, insisted that I sit down and repair my jetlag. The modern world continuing to mingle with ancient traditions is commonplace here. This herbal medicine doctor will cure your jetlag—or hangover Quito is moving past its reputation as a stopover enroute to the Galapagos, having spent the last decade reinventing itself with a half-billion investment in its Old Town, where it doesn’t take long for the international traveler to notice the dramatic changes in cleanliness, infrastructure, street lighting, and focus on pedestrian safety. The elongated (32x4-mile) city overflows with fantastical Baroque, neo-Gothic, and Renaissance churches, handmade-hat shops, chic craft stores, interactive chocolaterias, homemade-sorbet parlors, and herbal-medicine laboratories—where all ills, including hangovers, are cured via herbal rubs or drinkable concoctions. There are also museums galore. La Compañía, a Jesuit church and one of Ecuador’s most elaborate, is decorated with gold leaf, gilded plaster, fantastical wood carvings—and a waist-high adjustable mirror facing skyward so you can look at the dazzling ceiling without craning your neck. Behind nearly every street-side façade in this archetypal Spanish village is an inviting colonial courtyard. You only need to step inside a few of these courtyards and let the magic happen, whether it be shopping, museum going, or dining. Graceful Ecuadorians haven’t forgotten to breath, or nap, thus, they have time to greet you. Courtyard in Quito Ecuador’s Vice Minister of Tourism, Dominick Hamilton, interestingly a former travel writer, summed up Ecuador’s multiple World Heritage status in four words: “All in one place,” referring to it having the best of South America in a nutshell—featuring wildly megadiverse ecosystems, culture, and cuisine. Only one thing is predictable here. The sun rises and sets every day at six and the temperature is consistently between 70 and 75 degrees. In 1978, Quito was declared the first UNESCO World Heritage Site city and is considered the largest and best preserved historic center in the Americas. It defines highland calm, a South American Shangri-la with minimal machismo, only pure living among its historic riches. Temperate Quito has no need for AC or heat, but both are available. It also has delicious tap water. Casa Gangotena Some historic hotels thrive with multiple personalities. Casa Gangotena, inspired by a Venetian palace, is an imposing three-story 31-room white mansion with a classic courtyard garden and well-placed potted palm trees, tin ceilings, commanding views of Plaza San Francisco, and five-star everything. Originally the residence of several Republican-era presidents until it was destroyed by a 1914 fire, the manor was rebuilt in 1926 by the influential Gangotenas, whose lineage included industrialists, politicians, landowners, academics, and poets. Stately and exquisite for a boutique hotel, it was recently restored into ultra-classic digs—your stab at Ecuadorian royalty. Casa Gangotena guest bathroom When you enter your room it announces comfortable—contemporary design merging with antique furnishings. Some of the guestroom bathrooms are bigger than some New York City apartments. Ascending another flight on the hotel’s grand stone spiral staircase you discover a third-floor terrace with sweeping 360-degree views of the hilly city. Up there, you can reflect on the adjacent plaza’s incredible history. Casa Gangotena, once the site of an Inca temple, sits atop the eternal heart of Quito, as both the Inca and Spanish settlers used the plaza as a vital open-air market. On my way back down to the lobby, I overheard a guest in the wood-paneled library discussing how the veteran staff makes “five-star service look easy.” Casa Gangotena’s spiral staircase Casa Gangotena is also an epicenter for Quito’s most inventive culinary creations. Set within its courtyard restaurant’s glassed-in patio with art deco furniture and ceiling murals, award-winning Chef Andrés Dávila showcases enhanced traditional recipes from the Andes to the coast. Many dishes offer new twists with various corn grains, including a seared sea bass in black corn flour. Varieties of corn even find their way into paico, Quito’s traditional herb-infused potato soup—this is a soup-centric destination, and one of the it places to dine in Ecuador. Guayasamin’s art campus My unexpected Quito highlight occurred while visiting painter Guayasamin’s Chapel of the Man, an airline hanger-sized modern art museum sharing the artist’s (1919-99) gigantic macabre representations of the cyclical genocides that have devastated South America. On a much lighter note, next door is Guayasamin’s intimately preserved home and studio. Touring his palace brings you inside the mind and heart of this obsessed, quirky master. Upon seeing his living rooms, elaborate bathrooms, and bedroom, and seems-like-he’s-still-working-here work studios brings his genius back to life—and you start to like him. Born and raised very poor as the first of 10 children, his understanding of poverty remained a critical motivation behind his art. An in-studio cycling video of Guayasamin painting famed classical Spanish guitarist Paco de Lucia’s portrait overflows with emotional and waggish moments that drive home just how colorful Ecuador’s Picasso really was. Considered by some as South America’s artistic rough diamond, Guayasamin now moves me every day, as one of his paintings now graces my wall. Down the road from Guayasamin’s creative campus is the Olga Fisch Folklore Museum and Gallery. Olga was one of Guayasamin’s early teachers. The Hungarian immigrant arrived in Ecuador at the age of 40 in the 1930’s and never stopped inspiring locals until her death. An artist, stylist, and collector, Olga had a visionary’s appreciation for Ecuadorian folk art and crafts. Her influence on local, archetypal folk artists endured for half a century—thus elevating that style of crafts into fine art. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Find Casa Gangotena here. Contact Metropolitan Touring for (at least) expert tour guides—they can also arrange pretty much anything in Ecuador, including private guided tours, hotels, lodges and Galapagos travel. Quito is the launchpad for ventures into all of Ecuador’s megadiversity. Also, find your way to La Cuchara de San Marcos, a vintage-feeling organic vegetarian restaurant with craft beer and wine that’s blended into a cultural center. La Gloria Restaurant is in an artsy neighborhood, and it won’t disappoint. And they’ll be no route canals getting here. Many airlines fly direct into Quito from the U.S.A. Quito is also kid-friendly. Stroll colonial Quito on Sundays when roads are only open to pedestrians and bicycles. Kids love the variety of piñata and children’s costume stores—not to mention Quito’s version of Willy Wonka with many candy, chocolate, and ice-cream makers. Quito, Ecuador Globetrotter Dogma, 2015-04-22T16:50:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/where-awesomeness-tempts-from-every-angle http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/where-awesomeness-tempts-from-every-angle#When:16:00:00Z America’s oldest state capitol Annapolis, Maryland is an iconic, charming, thought-provoking destination, and with good reason—awesomeness tempts you from every angle. The Naval Academy (you don’t get it until you take the tour), America’s oldest state capitol in continuous legislative use (intimate, gorgeous, screams history), and the epic leisure-boat port vibe are just part of the appeal in America’s Sailing Capital. The collection of shops and restaurants/bars is a medley of colorful storefronts in a “Museum without Walls” that boasts more 18th-century brick buildings than any other place in the country. A few times I also had to ask myself, “Am I in Ireland?” But then I was caught up in the multiple City Dock tributes to Roots author Alex Hailey—until I was asked to take pictures of Japanese tourists wearing Shaquille O’Neal T-shirts. There’s a lot going on here. Did I mention food and drink? Daily Pledge of Allegiance at Chick & Ruth’s Delly When was the last time you recited the Pledge of Allegiance? Every weekday morning at 8:30 a.m. and weekends at 9:30 a.m., our pledge is enthusiastically revived at Chick & Ruth’s Delly. This classic Main Street diner doubles as the pulpit for owner and would-be mayor Ted Levitt. Ted has been working here since he was nine and has built up a faithful following that never tires of his friendly conversation and tableside magic tricks. Handmade breads and pies made in-house daily, including carmel-walnut-apple…colossal six-pound milkshakes. Attention midshipmen: free delivery to US Naval Academy. No TVs here Tucked away amidst the antique shops and galleries of brick-lined Maryland Avenue, Galway Bay Irish Pub & Restaurant is a favorite with the locals. Its wide open Ireland meets crab-land (in the form of “Miss Peggy’s” crab cakes). Try the Killarney Cabbage Wraps inside this unpretentious, lively-but-not-boisterous landmark. Whether you’re in the traditional Irish Pub (no TVs here) or the restaurant’s brick-walled dining room, expect a warm welcome from the regulars.  The ultimate live music venue Rams Head On Stage on West Street is a legendary music venue, and many a musician’s favorite. If intimate, under 500-person venues are your thing—this is it! I saw a local act, the Soul Serenaders, who took advantage of their reach-out-and-touch closeness to the audience. On any given evening, chances are you’ll catch some of your favorite performers here. I’d been wondering when Western and Asian medicine were truly going to shake hands and reside under one roof…until stepping inside Ridgely Retreat. Literally, this holistic healing and yoga center (including aerial yoga) is parked above a doctor’s office (rheumatology)—a husband and wife team, no less. Their roster of massage therapists will not disappoint. The Maritime Republic of Eastport— Carrol’s Creek A short walk across the Spa Creek Bridge takes you to the Maritime Republic of Eastport, Annapolis’ “naughty stepchild” and home to Restaurant Row. Here you’ll find Carrol’s Creek Waterfront Restaurant, a classic, salty dining establishment. Period. Thirty years down the road, the Lobster and Black Truffle Pot Pie still wows all who partake. Ask them to pair one of their craft beers with the Almond Encrusted Mahi Mahi. In the know diners snag seats on the restaurant’s outside deck to watch some 130 crews compete in the Wednesday Night Sailboat Races from April to September. Just across the street at the Boatyard Bar & Grill, you’ll begin to fathom the Annapolis pronunciation of relax.  Nautical noshes include crab soups, gumbo, and lobster rolls. The popular watering hole is also home to Maryland’s official dessert, Smith Island Cake. Ranked among the top waterfront bars in the world by Sail magazine, the ultimate yachting bar is a meeting ground for all lovers of the Chesapeake Bay. City Dock and Main Street Can you say ultimate brunch joint? I can: Miss Shirley’s Cafe. Enormous portions of pancakes infused (overnight) with orange zest, stone-ground oats, and their Beef Aldoso omelette are all players on what must be the east coast’s most tempting brunch menu. Miss Shirley’s Born on the Bay-O Bloody Mary can turn any morning into a Saturday night. The big booths don’t restrict socializing. U.S. Naval Academy Nobody ever told me the U.S. Naval Academy grounds resemble a mind-boggling Ivy League campus. A tour of “the Yard” was an American history lesson that left me begging for more. Alums include football legend Roger Staubach, President Jimmy Carter and Senator John McCain (you’ll hear a few tales about many famous alumni). The French Beaux-Arts architecture, mingled with a proud backstory, provide a step back in time and an understanding that tradition is alive and well here. Annapolis Fast Facts: Annapolis is the gateway to North America’s largest estuary, the Chesapeake Bay. Annapolis offers many ways to get out on the water, including 40-minute narrated cruises of the Annapolis Harbor, two hour cruises aboard a 74’ wooden schooner, stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking. A Discover Annapolis Trolley tour and a Four Centuries Walking Tour provide excellent introductions to the city. Annapolis was our nations’ first peace-time capital from November 1783 to August 1784. The Maryland State House is the only state capitol to also serve as our nation’s Capitol.   George Washington resigned his commission as commander in chief of the Continental Army in the Maryland State House. The Treaty of Paris was ratified in the Old Senate Chamber, ending the Revolutionary War. Maryland’s four signers of the Declaration of Independence had homes in Annapolis. Their homes still stand today, and three of them are open to the public. In the last few months alone, Annapolis has snagged some impressive titles: National Historic Treasure, one of America’s Best College Towns, one of America’s Most Romantic Towns, One of the nation’s Best Towns for the Holidays, and one of the Most Romantic Main Streets in the country.      * For information about events, attractions, activities and more, check out Visit Annapolis. Westin Annapolis The sleek Westin Annapolis Hotel on West Street in downtown Annapolis is just one mile from City Dock, a place to see and be seen. As you stroll along the brick-lined streets of Annapolis’ Historic District en route to the Annapolis Harbor (aka Ego Alley), check out the architecture, the art galleries, the homemade ice cream – and more. If you prefer, catch the City Circulator trolley beside the Westin to hit all of the aforementioned attractions. Car-free excursions to Annapolis are absolutely doable, take Amtrak to BWI Thurgood Marshall’s Airport station, then take The Airport Shuttle. America’s oldest state capitol Annapolis, Maryland is an iconic, charming, thought-provoking destination, and with good reason—awesomeness tempts you from every angle. The Naval Academy (you don’t get it until you take the tour), America’s oldest state capitol in continuous legislative use (intimate, gorgeous, screams history), and the epic leisure-boat port vibe are just part of the appeal in America’s Sailing Capital. The collection of shops and restaurants/bars is a medley of colorful storefronts in a “Museum without Walls” that boasts more 18th-century brick buildings than any other place in the country. A few times I also had to ask myself, “Am I in Ireland?” But then I was caught up in the multiple City Dock tributes to Roots author Alex Hailey—until I was asked to take pictures of Japanese tourists wearing Shaquille O’Neal T-shirts. There’s a lot going on here. Did I mention food and drink? Daily Pledge of Allegiance at Chick & Ruth’s Delly When was the last time you recited the Pledge of Allegiance? Every weekday morning at 8:30 a.m. and weekends at 9:30 a.m., our pledge is enthusiastically revived at Chick & Ruth’s Delly. This classic Main Street diner doubles as the pulpit for owner and would-be mayor Ted Levitt. Ted has been working here since he was nine and has built up a faithful following that never tires of his friendly conversation and tableside magic tricks. Handmade breads and pies made in-house daily, including carmel-walnut-apple…colossal six-pound milkshakes. Attention midshipmen: free delivery to US Naval Academy. No TVs here Tucked away amidst the antique shops and galleries of brick-lined Maryland Avenue, Galway Bay Irish Pub & Restaurant is a favorite with the locals. Its wide open Ireland meets crab-land (in the form of “Miss Peggy’s” crab cakes). Try the Killarney Cabbage Wraps inside this unpretentious, lively-but-not-boisterous landmark. Whether you’re in the traditional Irish Pub (no TVs here) or the restaurant’s brick-walled dining room, expect a warm welcome from the regulars.  The ultimate live music venue Rams Head On Stage on West Street is a legendary music venue, and many a musician’s favorite. If intimate, under 500-person venues are your thing—this is it! I saw a local act, the Soul Serenaders, who took advantage of their reach-out-and-touch closeness to the audience. On any given evening, chances are you’ll catch some of your favorite performers here. I’d been wondering when Western and Asian medicine were truly going to shake hands and reside under one roof…until stepping inside Ridgely Retreat. Literally, this holistic healing and yoga center (including aerial yoga) is parked above a doctor’s office (rheumatology)—a husband and wife team, no less. Their roster of massage therapists will not disappoint. The Maritime Republic of Eastport— Carrol’s Creek A short walk across the Spa Creek Bridge takes you to the Maritime Republic of Eastport, Annapolis’ “naughty stepchild” and home to Restaurant Row. Here you’ll find Carrol’s Creek Waterfront Restaurant, a classic, salty dining establishment. Period. Thirty years down the road, the Lobster and Black Truffle Pot Pie still wows all who partake. Ask them to pair one of their craft beers with the Almond Encrusted Mahi Mahi. In the know diners snag seats on the restaurant’s outside deck to watch some 130 crews compete in the Wednesday Night Sailboat Races from April to September. Just across the street at the Boatyard Bar & Grill, you’ll begin to fathom the Annapolis pronunciation of relax.  Nautical noshes include crab soups, gumbo, and lobster rolls. The popular watering hole is also home to Maryland’s official dessert, Smith Island Cake. Ranked among the top waterfront bars in the world by Sail magazine, the ultimate yachting bar is a meeting ground for all lovers of the Chesapeake Bay. City Dock and Main Street Can you say ultimate brunch joint? I can: Miss Shirley’s Cafe. Enormous portions of pancakes infused (overnight) with orange zest, stone-ground oats, and their Beef Aldoso omelette are all players on what must be the east coast’s most tempting brunch menu. Miss Shirley’s Born on the Bay-O Bloody Mary can turn any morning into a Saturday night. The big booths don’t restrict socializing. U.S. Naval Academy Nobody ever told me the U.S. Naval Academy grounds resemble a mind-boggling Ivy League campus. A tour of “the Yard” was an American history lesson that left me begging for more. Alums include football legend Roger Staubach, President Jimmy Carter and Senator John McCain (you’ll hear a few tales about many famous alumni). The French Beaux-Arts architecture, mingled with a proud backstory, provide a step back in time and an understanding that tradition is alive and well here. Annapolis Fast Facts: Annapolis is the gateway to North America’s largest estuary, the Chesapeake Bay. Annapolis offers many ways to get out on the water, including 40-minute narrated cruises of the Annapolis Harbor, two hour cruises aboard a 74’ wooden schooner, stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking. A Discover Annapolis Trolley tour and a Four Centuries Walking Tour provide excellent introductions to the city. Annapolis was our nations’ first peace-time capital from November 1783 to August 1784. The Maryland State House is the only state capitol to also serve as our nation’s Capitol.   George Washington resigned his commission as commander in chief of the Continental Army in the Maryland State House. The Treaty of Paris was ratified in the Old Senate Chamber, ending the Revolutionary War. Maryland’s four signers of the Declaration of Independence had homes in Annapolis. Their homes still stand today, and three of them are open to the public. In the last few months alone, Annapolis has snagged some impressive titles: National Historic Treasure, one of America’s Best College Towns, one of America’s Most Romantic Towns, One of the nation’s Best Towns for the Holidays, and one of the Most Romantic Main Streets in the country.      * For information about events, attractions, activities and more, check out Visit Annapolis. Westin Annapolis The sleek Westin Annapolis Hotel on West Street in downtown Annapolis is just one mile from City Dock, a place to see and be seen. As you stroll along the brick-lined streets of Annapolis’ Historic District en route to the Annapolis Harbor (aka Ego Alley), check out the architecture, the art galleries, the homemade ice cream – and more. If you prefer, catch the City Circulator trolley beside the Westin to hit all of the aforementioned attractions. Car-free excursions to Annapolis are absolutely doable, take Amtrak to BWI Thurgood Marshall’s Airport station, then take The Airport Shuttle. Globetrotter Dogma, 2015-03-24T16:00:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-renaissance-of-the-travel-agent http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-renaissance-of-the-travel-agent#When:14:00:00Z I don’t usually write about travel trade shows, but recently I traveled to Minnesota to answer a question: Is the option to book your vacation through an airline a good idea? We’ve all been disappointed by an airline, whether it be mechanical or weather-related delays, change fees, natural disasters, or last-minute booking price gouging. So, why make the airline your vacation ally? MLT Vacations—a wholly owned subsidiary of Delta Air Lines that operates Delta Vacations—hosted its annual MLT University, a three-day conference with classes to fine-tune the fine art of being a travel agent. Rumor has it that, as the Internet isn’t always a traveler’s ally, travel agents are not only making a comeback but many of them are flourishing. The 21st annual MLT University proved that airlines are not the enemy of modern travel agents. Instead, I discovered that the education aspect of this long-weekend university (even if you’re not a travel agent) is really about increasing awareness for everyone in the travel business, including the consumer. I’m guessing that one-in-10 vacations are botched by some sort of flight dilemma. When it happens—pardon my slang—who ya’ gonna call? Vacation providers, like Delta Vacations, have resources well beyond most travel agents and agencies, including marketing, technology, and the ability to leverage wholesale relationships with the airlines, convention and visitors bureaus, hotel and resort suppliers, rental car companies, and tour and excursion operators. Travel agents can rely on companies like Delta Vacations to vet, rate, and ensure all of the properties offered are up to snuff on operational standards and customer service delivery. Here’s why you may want to consider book a Delta Vacations and having your airline as your on-the-road advocate… A flight delay or cancellation can seriously disrupt a vacation. Once the reality of your flight problem sinks in, the next emotional punch is the nightmare of cancelling or delaying your ground transportation and hotel reservation. Who do you get in touch with, especially if your destination is in a foreign country? If this happens to you, and you have booked it yourself online, then you have a lot of calls to make if you’re going to reschedule your flights, your hotels, your ground transportation, and anything else you may have planned for your vacation. However, when you book through a travel agency or Delta Vacations, you only have to make one call, and they’ve got your back. Well, not only is Delta Vacations the first to know about any flight problems, they’re likely communicating with your hotel before you even know about the delay. Thanks to their advanced weather forecasting models, and that pilots can see weather from above, this information is shared with all concerned parties. “As the official vacations provider for Delta, Delta Vacations has access to the airline’s global and meteorological and forecasting resources,” says John Caldwell, President of Delta Vacations. “All of this information, bolstered by real-time pilot feedback from around the world, is shared with Delta Vacations’ state-of-the-art customer engagement center for consumers and travel agents.” According to him, the customer engagement center is perhaps the company’s biggest strategic asset. “Our agents are well-trained, know the destinations first-hand, and are a huge resource for all of our customers before, during, and after their vacations,” says Caldwell. Additionally, Delta has reshaped its entire model so they no longer cancel flights. Along with support before, during, and after a vacation, when you purchase a vacation package with Delta Vacations, whether through a travel agency or online, you’ll have the opportunity to earn redeemable miles along with bonus miles. SkyMiles members can earn up to 3,000 bonus miles for qualifying vacation packages and up to 7,500 bonus miles on qualifying luxury vacation packages. As the official vacation provider for Delta, Delta vacations helps SkyMiles members earn toward medallion status. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ The airline you choose stands on the frontlines of your vacation. And, you can still use a traditional travel agent to personalize this process. Caldwell added that “MLT was founded in 1969 as Mainline Travel. MLT Vacations was acquired by Northwest Airlines in 1985. The company was then absorbed by Delta Air Lines during its merger with Northwest in 2008. Delta Vacations was founded in 2000.” Airlines have always used capacity pricing (charging the least for the first seat booked and the most for the last), and Amtrak and bus lines are now mimicking this strategy. So we can no longer single out the airlines for this sensible but sometimes unnerving strategy. Eighty percent of Delta Vacations are booked directly through travel agents; the remaining 20 percent are booked online. At MLT University, more than 2,000 travel agents choose from more than 50 destination, specialty, and business development course offerings each day, and the program replicates for three days so no opportunity is missed. Travel agents fly in from all over the U.S. and the range of destinations showcased include Mexico, the Caribbean, Hawaii, and Europe. Numerous destinations aside, classes include Marketing & Social Media Solutions, Selling Niche/Specialty Vacations, divers, and LGBT: Selling More with Pride. The instructor for the LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans Gender) class noted that the acronym now ends with a Q (for anyone questioning their sexuality). This community spent 200 billion travel dollars in 2013. This factoid is telling. In the U.S., 85 percent of gay men and 77% of lesbians own passports. The overall national average for passport ownership hovers around 15 percent. The conference also features three lunchtime keynote speakers who informed and entertained. The accolades for each one the 2014 MLT University keynote speakers reproved that Delta Vacations is not trying to cut corners in trying to enhance your next vacation. The university is about empowering travel agents and teaching them how to market to the variety of travel communities. After the class sessions—daily at 3pm—the travel agents are invited to then peruse two-acres of exhibitor booths showcasing vacation properties and attractions from around the world. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Delta flies 165 million passengers per year; they’re not rookies. Additionally, you also have Delta’s SkyTeam partner airlines—Air France, KLM, Alitalia, AeroMexico—to expand the scope of your holiday. There’s a notion that vacation packages are all cookie-cutter, one-size-fits-all. Not the case with Delta Vacations, with thousands of flight and hotel choices, and hundreds of destinations, activities, and tours that can be bundled, travelers can tailor their own vacations to fit just about any budget and lifestyle. Most other airlines are also in the business of planning and booking vacations, including American Airlines Vacations and United Vacations. PS, Minneapolis is a great conference city. Specifically, from the super-comfortable Hilton Minneapolis (aim for a corner room), you can use the city’s extended system of elevated and enclosed walkways (human habit-trails) for the five-minute stroll to the convention center. And, they just built a light-rail connector between Minneapolis and St. Paul I don’t usually write about travel trade shows, but recently I traveled to Minnesota to answer a question: Is the option to book your vacation through an airline a good idea? We’ve all been disappointed by an airline, whether it be mechanical or weather-related delays, change fees, natural disasters, or last-minute booking price gouging. So, why make the airline your vacation ally? MLT Vacations—a wholly owned subsidiary of Delta Air Lines that operates Delta Vacations—hosted its annual MLT University, a three-day conference with classes to fine-tune the fine art of being a travel agent. Rumor has it that, as the Internet isn’t always a traveler’s ally, travel agents are not only making a comeback but many of them are flourishing. The 21st annual MLT University proved that airlines are not the enemy of modern travel agents. Instead, I discovered that the education aspect of this long-weekend university (even if you’re not a travel agent) is really about increasing awareness for everyone in the travel business, including the consumer. I’m guessing that one-in-10 vacations are botched by some sort of flight dilemma. When it happens—pardon my slang—who ya’ gonna call? Vacation providers, like Delta Vacations, have resources well beyond most travel agents and agencies, including marketing, technology, and the ability to leverage wholesale relationships with the airlines, convention and visitors bureaus, hotel and resort suppliers, rental car companies, and tour and excursion operators. Travel agents can rely on companies like Delta Vacations to vet, rate, and ensure all of the properties offered are up to snuff on operational standards and customer service delivery. Here’s why you may want to consider book a Delta Vacations and having your airline as your on-the-road advocate… A flight delay or cancellation can seriously disrupt a vacation. Once the reality of your flight problem sinks in, the next emotional punch is the nightmare of cancelling or delaying your ground transportation and hotel reservation. Who do you get in touch with, especially if your destination is in a foreign country? If this happens to you, and you have booked it yourself online, then you have a lot of calls to make if you’re going to reschedule your flights, your hotels, your ground transportation, and anything else you may have planned for your vacation. However, when you book through a travel agency or Delta Vacations, you only have to make one call, and they’ve got your back. Well, not only is Delta Vacations the first to know about any flight problems, they’re likely communicating with your hotel before you even know about the delay. Thanks to their advanced weather forecasting models, and that pilots can see weather from above, this information is shared with all concerned parties. “As the official vacations provider for Delta, Delta Vacations has access to the airline’s global and meteorological and forecasting resources,” says John Caldwell, President of Delta Vacations. “All of this information, bolstered by real-time pilot feedback from around the world, is shared with Delta Vacations’ state-of-the-art customer engagement center for consumers and travel agents.” According to him, the customer engagement center is perhaps the company’s biggest strategic asset. “Our agents are well-trained, know the destinations first-hand, and are a huge resource for all of our customers before, during, and after their vacations,” says Caldwell. Additionally, Delta has reshaped its entire model so they no longer cancel flights. Along with support before, during, and after a vacation, when you purchase a vacation package with Delta Vacations, whether through a travel agency or online, you’ll have the opportunity to earn redeemable miles along with bonus miles. SkyMiles members can earn up to 3,000 bonus miles for qualifying vacation packages and up to 7,500 bonus miles on qualifying luxury vacation packages. As the official vacation provider for Delta, Delta vacations helps SkyMiles members earn toward medallion status. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ The airline you choose stands on the frontlines of your vacation. And, you can still use a traditional travel agent to personalize this process. Caldwell added that “MLT was founded in 1969 as Mainline Travel. MLT Vacations was acquired by Northwest Airlines in 1985. The company was then absorbed by Delta Air Lines during its merger with Northwest in 2008. Delta Vacations was founded in 2000.” Airlines have always used capacity pricing (charging the least for the first seat booked and the most for the last), and Amtrak and bus lines are now mimicking this strategy. So we can no longer single out the airlines for this sensible but sometimes unnerving strategy. Eighty percent of Delta Vacations are booked directly through travel agents; the remaining 20 percent are booked online. At MLT University, more than 2,000 travel agents choose from more than 50 destination, specialty, and business development course offerings each day, and the program replicates for three days so no opportunity is missed. Travel agents fly in from all over the U.S. and the range of destinations showcased include Mexico, the Caribbean, Hawaii, and Europe. Numerous destinations aside, classes include Marketing & Social Media Solutions, Selling Niche/Specialty Vacations, divers, and LGBT: Selling More with Pride. The instructor for the LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans Gender) class noted that the acronym now ends with a Q (for anyone questioning their sexuality). This community spent 200 billion travel dollars in 2013. This factoid is telling. In the U.S., 85 percent of gay men and 77% of lesbians own passports. The overall national average for passport ownership hovers around 15 percent. The conference also features three lunchtime keynote speakers who informed and entertained. The accolades for each one the 2014 MLT University keynote speakers reproved that Delta Vacations is not trying to cut corners in trying to enhance your next vacation. The university is about empowering travel agents and teaching them how to market to the variety of travel communities. After the class sessions—daily at 3pm—the travel agents are invited to then peruse two-acres of exhibitor booths showcasing vacation properties and attractions from around the world. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Delta flies 165 million passengers per year; they’re not rookies. Additionally, you also have Delta’s SkyTeam partner airlines—Air France, KLM, Alitalia, AeroMexico—to expand the scope of your holiday. There’s a notion that vacation packages are all cookie-cutter, one-size-fits-all. Not the case with Delta Vacations, with thousands of flight and hotel choices, and hundreds of destinations, activities, and tours that can be bundled, travelers can tailor their own vacations to fit just about any budget and lifestyle. Most other airlines are also in the business of planning and booking vacations, including American Airlines Vacations and United Vacations. PS, Minneapolis is a great conference city. Specifically, from the super-comfortable Hilton Minneapolis (aim for a corner room), you can use the city’s extended system of elevated and enclosed walkways (human habit-trails) for the five-minute stroll to the convention center. And, they just built a light-rail connector between Minneapolis and St. Paul Globetrotter Dogma, 2015-02-19T14:00:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/floridas-emerald-coast http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/floridas-emerald-coast#When:14:00:00Z Florida’s Emerald Coast Scenic Highway 98 parallels the Emerald Coast shoreline within this 100-mile stretch of the Florida panhandle. When people say it has sugar-white sand (actually fine quartz flakes) and emerald colored waters, believe them. The upland estuaries that have been feeding these beaches for millenniums creates this sugary magic. On the opposing sides of the Emerald Coast’s beaches, the sand turns back into, well, sand. Resembling the Bahamas, tourism-friendly Destin and Fort Walton are separated by a five-mile expanse of wide-open and ‘undeveloped’ Okaloosa Island (although the military decides what happens on most of this 55-mile-long island, which acts a barrier beach). You can hear the fish calling your name. Your fishing competition. Photo: Paul Shoul The Gulfarium on Okaloosa Island is a sprawling, rustic campus for aquatic life interaction. This grandmother of open-air aquarium marine parks is a homey environment to more than 1,000 animals living in 26 habitats. Habitats include rescued sea turtles, immense tortoise, Asian otters, and 13-foot 800-pound American alligators. You can also mingle with dolphins and swim with stingrays in their breeding habitat. Kids of all ages will dig this reintroduction to Mother Nature. Okaloosa Island Pier. Photo: Bruce Northam Right next to the Gulfarium is another chance to stroll down a wildlife-infused Gulf of Mexico pedestrian main-drag that I nicknamed “The Berth of Bold Herons and Pelicans.” Okaloosa’s unofficial main street—the Okaloosa Island Pier—was built between 1995 and 1998. It stretches 1/3 of a mile out into the Gulf (if you include the back wall of the classic, breezy fisherman’s bar, which overlooks the pier) and terminates with an above-water cul-de-sac where tourists and fishing folks mingle. The pier’s overlords, herons and pelicans, stand perched above the lampposts waiting for snack opportunities. Strolling along this pier while people and animal-watching was one of my favorite Emerald Coast activities. You can seek, rent, or buy whatever you need to blend in here—bait advice, fishing poles, and snacks—at a weathered shack at the base of this epic over-the-Gulf boardwalk. Seafood is obviously a theme here, and many restaurants will cook what you catch. Destin’s waterfront Jackacudas sushi menu tells a tale—the chef, who grew up on a military base in Japan, imported the recipes here and adds his own twists, which include frying sushi, all of it freshly caught and then sliced right on their nearby dock. There’s no shortage of military bases or veterans in this region, or the occasional fighter jets, helicopters, and drones overhead. Also in the Emerald Grand Complex is Grand Vista restaurant, whose lovely veteran waiter suggested fine wines to match the seasoning of the mackerel we’d caught earlier that day. Words fail…Photo: Skip Kaltenheuser While standing upon the Emerald Coast’s baby powder sand, you also notice there aren’t even any shells or even bits of shells—heaven for the feet. Sunsets take center stage here as the sun dips into the Gulf, and the purple haze grows. I overhear two locals talking about their good schools and low crime. Nobody seems worried about anything. Most guys (and some gals) come here to fish…really fish. A good place to make this happen is at Harbor Walk Marina, where an army of deep-sea fishing charter boats await. I lucked out by landing on Captain Billy Teem’s 52-foot boat named Fish-N-Teem, which can be chartered for four hours or three days—it’s also a live-aboard, if you’re prowling some serious tuna. Captain Billy noted that “Florida is a no-drilling state, so there are no oil rigs like you see in the Gulf off Mississippi, Louisiana, or Texas.” The rigs do attract fish, as they act like bait traps, but this captain and his first mate Wyatt don’t need any help luring a carnival of fish. Twenty-five miles out (goodbye cell signal just as the beachside hotels dip below the horizon), we caught mostly mackerel and blackfin tuna, but we weren’t the only ones hunting. Turns out, the dolphins have figured out that Billy knows what he’s doing—what he terms finesse fishing—so several of the immense mackerel we reeled in attracted a fan club of dolphins that tried to steal our catch. On cue, dolphins would race in like a moment from Jaws. Partially successful, a few of the mackerel we caught had fresh dolphin teeth marks on them, which made you think about your place in the food chain. We also reeled in a bonita and a shark, which we let go. We passed the fishing pole around while pulling in the 200-lb shark and got a brew-earning workout. Our catch—courtesy of First Mate Wyatt. Photo: Skip Kaltenheuser Back on the dock, Wyatt expertly cleaned our catch and sliced off a few nuggets of blackfin tuna sushi—this fishing-charter-Renaissance-man even had a stash of wasabi and soy sauce. Contact Fish-N-Teem via 850.978.2448. My final moment in Destin was at Mama Clemenza’s restaurant, which serves classic Italian dishes. After a tasty European breakfast including imported Irish bangers, Mama herself, a knowing, retired nurse, stepped outside onto the patio to greet us…and issued two friendly warnings. 1. “Mama Clemenza’s will be a national chain within three years.” 2. “You’ll be back.” I will. For more information visit emeraldcoastfl.com. I enjoyed my stay at Sterling Shores, where my swank two-bedroom high-rise Gulf-view pad even had a washer/dryer (and detergent), 888.450.9572. For a great taxi service (and a local history whiz) call Larry Woodward with Airport Shuttle 850.585.9949. Ps, Uncle Buck’s Fishbowl and Grill is uniquely designed for family fun; casual dining featuring a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, salads, and burgers. An island-theme bar area recreates an underwater/sunken treasure ship experience with aquatic life appearing to swim overhead. The bar has a huge saltwater aquarium with scores of tropical fish—and it’s elevated to provide views of the bowling action while you enjoy your favorite beverage. The numerous full-sized bowling lanes offer customized bowling balls that bear the likeness of octopus, mermaids, camouflage and more. Celebration of the catch. Photo: Skip Kaltenheuser Ps, I played with a few titles to open this story, including Panhandle Hospitality, but I must close with this one: Panhandle Riviera. Florida’s Emerald Coast Scenic Highway 98 parallels the Emerald Coast shoreline within this 100-mile stretch of the Florida panhandle. When people say it has sugar-white sand (actually fine quartz flakes) and emerald colored waters, believe them. The upland estuaries that have been feeding these beaches for millenniums creates this sugary magic. On the opposing sides of the Emerald Coast’s beaches, the sand turns back into, well, sand. Resembling the Bahamas, tourism-friendly Destin and Fort Walton are separated by a five-mile expanse of wide-open and ‘undeveloped’ Okaloosa Island (although the military decides what happens on most of this 55-mile-long island, which acts a barrier beach). You can hear the fish calling your name. Your fishing competition. Photo: Paul Shoul The Gulfarium on Okaloosa Island is a sprawling, rustic campus for aquatic life interaction. This grandmother of open-air aquarium marine parks is a homey environment to more than 1,000 animals living in 26 habitats. Habitats include rescued sea turtles, immense tortoise, Asian otters, and 13-foot 800-pound American alligators. You can also mingle with dolphins and swim with stingrays in their breeding habitat. Kids of all ages will dig this reintroduction to Mother Nature. Okaloosa Island Pier. Photo: Bruce Northam Right next to the Gulfarium is another chance to stroll down a wildlife-infused Gulf of Mexico pedestrian main-drag that I nicknamed “The Berth of Bold Herons and Pelicans.” Okaloosa’s unofficial main street—the Okaloosa Island Pier—was built between 1995 and 1998. It stretches 1/3 of a mile out into the Gulf (if you include the back wall of the classic, breezy fisherman’s bar, which overlooks the pier) and terminates with an above-water cul-de-sac where tourists and fishing folks mingle. The pier’s overlords, herons and pelicans, stand perched above the lampposts waiting for snack opportunities. Strolling along this pier while people and animal-watching was one of my favorite Emerald Coast activities. You can seek, rent, or buy whatever you need to blend in here—bait advice, fishing poles, and snacks—at a weathered shack at the base of this epic over-the-Gulf boardwalk. Seafood is obviously a theme here, and many restaurants will cook what you catch. Destin’s waterfront Jackacudas sushi menu tells a tale—the chef, who grew up on a military base in Japan, imported the recipes here and adds his own twists, which include frying sushi, all of it freshly caught and then sliced right on their nearby dock. There’s no shortage of military bases or veterans in this region, or the occasional fighter jets, helicopters, and drones overhead. Also in the Emerald Grand Complex is Grand Vista restaurant, whose lovely veteran waiter suggested fine wines to match the seasoning of the mackerel we’d caught earlier that day. Words fail…Photo: Skip Kaltenheuser While standing upon the Emerald Coast’s baby powder sand, you also notice there aren’t even any shells or even bits of shells—heaven for the feet. Sunsets take center stage here as the sun dips into the Gulf, and the purple haze grows. I overhear two locals talking about their good schools and low crime. Nobody seems worried about anything. Most guys (and some gals) come here to fish…really fish. A good place to make this happen is at Harbor Walk Marina, where an army of deep-sea fishing charter boats await. I lucked out by landing on Captain Billy Teem’s 52-foot boat named Fish-N-Teem, which can be chartered for four hours or three days—it’s also a live-aboard, if you’re prowling some serious tuna. Captain Billy noted that “Florida is a no-drilling state, so there are no oil rigs like you see in the Gulf off Mississippi, Louisiana, or Texas.” The rigs do attract fish, as they act like bait traps, but this captain and his first mate Wyatt don’t need any help luring a carnival of fish. Twenty-five miles out (goodbye cell signal just as the beachside hotels dip below the horizon), we caught mostly mackerel and blackfin tuna, but we weren’t the only ones hunting. Turns out, the dolphins have figured out that Billy knows what he’s doing—what he terms finesse fishing—so several of the immense mackerel we reeled in attracted a fan club of dolphins that tried to steal our catch. On cue, dolphins would race in like a moment from Jaws. Partially successful, a few of the mackerel we caught had fresh dolphin teeth marks on them, which made you think about your place in the food chain. We also reeled in a bonita and a shark, which we let go. We passed the fishing pole around while pulling in the 200-lb shark and got a brew-earning workout. Our catch—courtesy of First Mate Wyatt. Photo: Skip Kaltenheuser Back on the dock, Wyatt expertly cleaned our catch and sliced off a few nuggets of blackfin tuna sushi—this fishing-charter-Renaissance-man even had a stash of wasabi and soy sauce. Contact Fish-N-Teem via 850.978.2448. My final moment in Destin was at Mama Clemenza’s restaurant, which serves classic Italian dishes. After a tasty European breakfast including imported Irish bangers, Mama herself, a knowing, retired nurse, stepped outside onto the patio to greet us…and issued two friendly warnings. 1. “Mama Clemenza’s will be a national chain within three years.” 2. “You’ll be back.” I will. For more information visit emeraldcoastfl.com. I enjoyed my stay at Sterling Shores, where my swank two-bedroom high-rise Gulf-view pad even had a washer/dryer (and detergent), 888.450.9572. For a great taxi service (and a local history whiz) call Larry Woodward with Airport Shuttle 850.585.9949. Ps, Uncle Buck’s Fishbowl and Grill is uniquely designed for family fun; casual dining featuring a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, salads, and burgers. An island-theme bar area recreates an underwater/sunken treasure ship experience with aquatic life appearing to swim overhead. The bar has a huge saltwater aquarium with scores of tropical fish—and it’s elevated to provide views of the bowling action while you enjoy your favorite beverage. The numerous full-sized bowling lanes offer customized bowling balls that bear the likeness of octopus, mermaids, camouflage and more. Celebration of the catch. Photo: Skip Kaltenheuser Ps, I played with a few titles to open this story, including Panhandle Hospitality, but I must close with this one: Panhandle Riviera. Globetrotter Dogma, 2015-01-06T14:00:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/how-to-shop-outside-the-shopthai-style http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/how-to-shop-outside-the-shopthai-style#When:13:00:00Z After covering Borneo’s annual Rainforest World Music Festival, I visited Thailand as it weathered one of its seemingly annual government ‘coups.’ However, despite the global media portraying another Armageddon, it was business as usual in the Land of Smiles. Even better, it was June, thus blissfully offseason. The last time I visited the southern beach town of Krabi—1987 in backpacker mode—it was mostly Euro-backpackers, when $5/day covered food, thatched-roof camping, and whatever party mode you fancied. Seems everything changes (except the Knicks sucking). Thailand’s Centara Grand Beach Resort Krabi’s Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas sits in a private oceanfront cove surrounded by sheer mountain cliffs and abundant wildlife, including throngs of fascinating but thieving monkeys. This spectacular honeymoon-caliber resort renders time irrelevant, whether it be enjoying ultra-quiet napping any time of day or kayaking amid the lofty offshore limestone pinnacles. Centara Grand’s ‘amusement park’ dock Krabi’s seaside village tourism strip—foot massage shops, football-focused sports bars, retail shopping bonanza—seems a world away, but it’s actually only a 10-minute hike over the unlit hillside-ascending “monkey trail.” Guests not keen on navigating rope-tied ladders can get to town via the frequent speedboat service to ‘downtown’ Nopparathara pier, although, due to occasional big waves, some boat departures and arrivals resemble tsunami evacuation drills. If I was 10, I would have spent most of my resort time riding their amusement-park-ride-qualifying floating dock. I did manage one happy hour on this sea-surge undulating (unintentionally recreational) rollercoaster. In central Krabi, the 1980’s groovy vibe has pretty much evaporated, except for a few old-style haunts like the Hippie Bar & Restaurant, where cozy bench/couches for four invite you and your new pals to kick back (facing each other, feet elevated) and enjoy a blast from the past. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ When traveling, try shopping outside the shop and bring home something that is a part of the place you visit… A 1992 courier flight set the stage for my first visit to Thailand since my time as a backpacker in the mid-80s. A solo motorbike safari in Thailand’s northern mountains was an existential escape from another job attempt requiring dry-cleaned shirts. Just like Homeland Security wiped out the courier flight, Thailand’s wholesomeness was being challenged by the weight of mass tourism. But you can always find a pure heart if you know where to look. On excursions abroad, I try to acquire one unforgettable keepsake and gift. Often, things that are not officially for sale become those gems, and the tale of the transaction becomes a souvenir itself. I’m routinely on the lookout where there are no price tags. Worksites—factories, mills, home-based workshops, ports, mines—are replete with handmade tools, hunting paraphernalia, garments, and such that might complement your desk, wall, or reputation as a gift giver. In Thailand’s misty mountains, I encountered a group from a local hilltribe returning from a day of river fishing. Along with baskets of fish, they each had fish traps slung around their shoulders. The traps fused lobster-trap utility with bamboo ingenuity. Created from one section of bamboo sliced into segments and enlarged into a vase shape, the trap’s inner bamboo-stick corkscrew entraps the fish who are lured inside by bait. I bought one for double the offering price.  I knew the fish trap—tied to the outside of my backpack while transiting Bangkok on foot—was a winner when scores of elderly men accosted me to admire the functional artwork recalling their youth and a fading way of life. Another sign was the perplexed stares it earned on the New York City subway ride home from the airport. You’d think that savvy shopping in an out-of-the-way village defined by coconuts, hogs, and woven baskets would be a misnomer, but by focusing less on how things look and more on how they work, you can end up with a real crowd pleaser. People look at the fish trap, are puzzled by the bamboo marvel, then cave into admiration. When buying things that aren’t officially for sale, be sensitive to cultural rape. Make sure the economically stressed are parting with possessions they can easily replace with your payment. Don’t be swayed by politeness regarding an item they will really miss. Acquiring not-for-sale genuine parts of the places you visit necessitates sensitivity, fair compromise, and bargaining with the right individual. “Like playing flute to a buffalo.” —Thai expression about bargaining falling on deaf ears   Bankok’s Shangri-La Hotel One of Bangkok’s swankest urban riverside retreats is the Shangri-La Hotel. The immense, luxurious lobby leads the way to its lush riverside ‘front yard’ where a huge outdoor pool fuses with outdoor dining and drinking lounges and the NEXT2 Café—site of an epic breakfast buffet. Thai-inspired décor, silk and teak finishings, high-ceiling chandeliers, and spacious river-view balconies lend an air of elegance to guest rooms. Centrally located alongside Bangkok’s bustling Chao Phraya River, you’re minutes away from epic street life via three modes of transport: long-tail boat taxis, cabs, and Bangkok’s far-reaching Metro. This Shangri-La has 802 rooms, nine restaurants and bars, and a staff that redefines kindly. All of this mellow glory converges at Shangri-La’s Horizon Club Lounge, which has penthouse views of the city. For more info visit Amazing Thailand. After covering Borneo’s annual Rainforest World Music Festival, I visited Thailand as it weathered one of its seemingly annual government ‘coups.’ However, despite the global media portraying another Armageddon, it was business as usual in the Land of Smiles. Even better, it was June, thus blissfully offseason. The last time I visited the southern beach town of Krabi—1987 in backpacker mode—it was mostly Euro-backpackers, when $5/day covered food, thatched-roof camping, and whatever party mode you fancied. Seems everything changes (except the Knicks sucking). Thailand’s Centara Grand Beach Resort Krabi’s Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas sits in a private oceanfront cove surrounded by sheer mountain cliffs and abundant wildlife, including throngs of fascinating but thieving monkeys. This spectacular honeymoon-caliber resort renders time irrelevant, whether it be enjoying ultra-quiet napping any time of day or kayaking amid the lofty offshore limestone pinnacles. Centara Grand’s ‘amusement park’ dock Krabi’s seaside village tourism strip—foot massage shops, football-focused sports bars, retail shopping bonanza—seems a world away, but it’s actually only a 10-minute hike over the unlit hillside-ascending “monkey trail.” Guests not keen on navigating rope-tied ladders can get to town via the frequent speedboat service to ‘downtown’ Nopparathara pier, although, due to occasional big waves, some boat departures and arrivals resemble tsunami evacuation drills. If I was 10, I would have spent most of my resort time riding their amusement-park-ride-qualifying floating dock. I did manage one happy hour on this sea-surge undulating (unintentionally recreational) rollercoaster. In central Krabi, the 1980’s groovy vibe has pretty much evaporated, except for a few old-style haunts like the Hippie Bar & Restaurant, where cozy bench/couches for four invite you and your new pals to kick back (facing each other, feet elevated) and enjoy a blast from the past. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ When traveling, try shopping outside the shop and bring home something that is a part of the place you visit… A 1992 courier flight set the stage for my first visit to Thailand since my time as a backpacker in the mid-80s. A solo motorbike safari in Thailand’s northern mountains was an existential escape from another job attempt requiring dry-cleaned shirts. Just like Homeland Security wiped out the courier flight, Thailand’s wholesomeness was being challenged by the weight of mass tourism. But you can always find a pure heart if you know where to look. On excursions abroad, I try to acquire one unforgettable keepsake and gift. Often, things that are not officially for sale become those gems, and the tale of the transaction becomes a souvenir itself. I’m routinely on the lookout where there are no price tags. Worksites—factories, mills, home-based workshops, ports, mines—are replete with handmade tools, hunting paraphernalia, garments, and such that might complement your desk, wall, or reputation as a gift giver. In Thailand’s misty mountains, I encountered a group from a local hilltribe returning from a day of river fishing. Along with baskets of fish, they each had fish traps slung around their shoulders. The traps fused lobster-trap utility with bamboo ingenuity. Created from one section of bamboo sliced into segments and enlarged into a vase shape, the trap’s inner bamboo-stick corkscrew entraps the fish who are lured inside by bait. I bought one for double the offering price.  I knew the fish trap—tied to the outside of my backpack while transiting Bangkok on foot—was a winner when scores of elderly men accosted me to admire the functional artwork recalling their youth and a fading way of life. Another sign was the perplexed stares it earned on the New York City subway ride home from the airport. You’d think that savvy shopping in an out-of-the-way village defined by coconuts, hogs, and woven baskets would be a misnomer, but by focusing less on how things look and more on how they work, you can end up with a real crowd pleaser. People look at the fish trap, are puzzled by the bamboo marvel, then cave into admiration. When buying things that aren’t officially for sale, be sensitive to cultural rape. Make sure the economically stressed are parting with possessions they can easily replace with your payment. Don’t be swayed by politeness regarding an item they will really miss. Acquiring not-for-sale genuine parts of the places you visit necessitates sensitivity, fair compromise, and bargaining with the right individual. “Like playing flute to a buffalo.” —Thai expression about bargaining falling on deaf ears   Bankok’s Shangri-La Hotel One of Bangkok’s swankest urban riverside retreats is the Shangri-La Hotel. The immense, luxurious lobby leads the way to its lush riverside ‘front yard’ where a huge outdoor pool fuses with outdoor dining and drinking lounges and the NEXT2 Café—site of an epic breakfast buffet. Thai-inspired décor, silk and teak finishings, high-ceiling chandeliers, and spacious river-view balconies lend an air of elegance to guest rooms. Centrally located alongside Bangkok’s bustling Chao Phraya River, you’re minutes away from epic street life via three modes of transport: long-tail boat taxis, cabs, and Bangkok’s far-reaching Metro. This Shangri-La has 802 rooms, nine restaurants and bars, and a staff that redefines kindly. All of this mellow glory converges at Shangri-La’s Horizon Club Lounge, which has penthouse views of the city. For more info visit Amazing Thailand. Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-11-25T13:00:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/cruising-route-66-ozarks-style http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/cruising-route-66-ozarks-style#When:16:00:00Z “Do you need a ride?” –offer from elderly woman at Springfield Airport Author with Springfield Mayor Robert Stephens (and charitable parking meter) I’m nearing the detour in my travel writing career where I’m sometimes ready to just say no—I’m hoping it’s just a temporary burnout. To weather this hiatus, I’ve released my fourth book, The Directions to Happiness, which chronicles my 135-country quest for, well, everything. Feeling homey, I now pine for moments of Americana bliss. Given the chance to write about LA, Boston, Miami, or say, Springfield, Missouri, I’d choose the latter. Well, greetings from Springfield, Missouri, a classic stopover on old Route 66 and a blues music hub in the legendary Ozark Mountains. I’m pursuing Middle America’s music, food, personality, and timing—some destinations make you dig for the good stuff, but Springfield seems to be ready when you are. Kentucky Gentlemen. Image: Skip Kaltenheuser I’m here to tune into The Greater Ozarks Blues Festival. I’ve covered legendary music festivals—Telluride Bluegrass, Gathering of the Vibes, Woodstock II, Borneo’s Rainforest World Music—but have since tired of winding lines leading to porta-potties and cattle-style metal gate crowd control. The Greater Ozarks Blues Festival is now on my permanent hit-list; intimate, spacious, unencumbered, complete with amazing talent. This annual two-day affair (early September) allows the crowd to mingle with the acts before and after their gigs. Premiere local and regional bands are brought in by the Blues Society of the Ozarks. Held on the fringe of Springfield in the backyard of the American Legion Hall, this festival rounds out the fun with $3 beers and barbecue. Acts included Kentucky Gentlemen (hard blues duo of an electric guitar-playing singer and a bassist thumping a drum with his foot), the Brenda Meyer Band (take note Bonnie Raitt), and John Nemeth (classic harmonica-burning vocalist backed by a powerhouse retro blues band that can also bend toward soul or R&B). Ps, this blues storm is not a singular event. Springfield is bursting at the seams with venues that showcase the blues. Springfield’s retro Ramada Oasis Old “where you should stay advice” usually leans toward the “you’re only there to sleep” model, but I now view your snooze palace as vital to the overall travel experience. It can be all about the home base. The Ramada Oasis, on the “north side” of town, is another world set behind an otherwise generic turnpike setting—a behind-the-scenes retro world. Its 60s glam matches what Route 66 once represented to the USA: the trendy route between Chicago and Los Angeles. If James Bond visited Missouri in the 60s, this place would be his pad. Once the most sprawling Howard Johnson’s in the land, Ramada has since resurrected the glory of this 173-room classic—whose centerpiece, bisecting two rows of rooms, is an indoor soccer-court-sized atrium with pool, Jacuzzi, and lush jungle foliage. Its open-kitchen restaurant and ice bar, Fire & Ice, is the only part of the property not left to the past. Breakfast is included every morning in the atrium. It’s also a great work environment, I’ll miss the place. Brad Pitt’s hometown—rumor has it he was “a social” in high school—has many layers, including a deep-seeded music scene. I sat down with Ozark Mountain Daredevils founder Randle Chowning (one of the Daredevils enormous 70s hits was Jackie Blue). He explained how the legendary Ozark Jubilee television show (1955-60) either attracted or launched many famous acts, including Les Paul, Porter Wagner, Brenda Lee, and Chet Atkins. Springfield’s place on the then vital Route 66 meant that cross country traffic had no option but to tune in; the music makers knew this, and so did Si Siman, founder of the Ozark Jubilee. Other touristy music towns like Nashville or Memphis have lost their intimacy—Springfield is just now realizing its place in the history of American music. Smallin Civil War Cave Caving In: Missouri has an underworld, and I’m not talking about pawn shops or strip clubs. This is cave country, where geology, history, and unsung tour guides shine. I visited three… * Missouri Institute of Natural Science sits atop Riverbluff Cave, which was discovered on September 11, 2001. It was originally an open-ended half-mile tunnel that was sealed (and left undisturbed) by the elements 75,000 years ago. On that infamous date, a road crew was about to blow the entire area, tunnel included, for a new road, but blasting was halted nationwide. Later that day, they blew only two of the set charges by necessity, which opened up the cave again—inside they found 735,000-year-old bones of woolly mammoths, giant short-faced bears (make Grizzlies seem puny), and (gnarly) peccary pigs. Riverbluff Cave now has the ear of New York’s Museum of Natural History, and the world. A volunteer on a mission, Brett Houser, is part of a team excavating tons of silt in the newfound otherworld to find more skeletons. He told me that it’s only a matter of time before they find something that sends the eyes of the world here, hopefully in their lifetime. As the digging continues, they are finding remains in the sediment that date a million years. Stay tuned. *Fantastic Caverns—my daughter has taught me to enjoy kid-friendly charms. This is one. Imagine a rollercoaster ride on a red Jeep-drawn tram into the land of stone sculptures formed by millions of years of dripping water. A former speakeasy and music venue, this underworld will make you rethink entertaining in hard times. *Smallin Civil War Cave—Missouri was the most fought over state in the Union, having more per capita casualties than any other state. This beautiful cave served as a refuge for Confederate sympathizers. Smallin’s passionate tour guides not only know Civil War history, but the tour is an entertaining millennial odyssey through the ages of all things rock. With the largest cave opening in Missouri, it was used by Native Americans, then settlers. At 54-degrees year-round, the spring flowing through the cave has always been the neighborhood fridge. Previously, as a frequent grade-school visitor to Roosevelt Field (America’s first mega-mall on lovely Long Island), I viewed the only value in such expanses as mild shoplifting and the restaurant dine-and-dash. Returning to lawful citizenry by age 16, I then avoided malls like dentists. But, I found one that people who’ve even abandoned televisions might like, even if you don’t hunt (I don’t). Bass Pro Shops “granddaddy” store and national headquarters is here. The owner, John L. Morris, is not only the wealthiest man in Missouri but also one of the more environmentally active. Sure, he peddles hunting equipment, but he also redoubles awareness for sensible conservation. Four million people visit Springfield’s Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World every year, making it Missouri’s busiest attraction. This place resembles a sprawling, multi-theatre nature atrium, but it’s all one store. Inside, their mind-bending in-house gun museum, which starts at the very beginning, is where I learned that Native Americans called rifles “thunder sticks.” Moving on, the store overflows with indoor duck and alligator ponds. Every other wall is a mammoth aquarium; the fresh water aquariums alone make a visit worthwhile. Further telling, there is no shortage of fans who choose this “mall” as their honeymoon destination. Bass Pro Shops - Hemingway’s Blue Water Café. Image Skip Kaltenheuser. Suffering tourist traps is a state of mind. So, don’t let the café in Lambert’s Café throw you. This humongous tourist megahit serves up hog jowl with cucumber and onions in the salooniest multi-room restaurant to not serve alcohol. The menu doesn’t scream health food, but the trip to this roadside attraction is worth it just to witness “throwed rolls,” where waiters literally huck tasty bread rolls at/to customers. I caught one (which actually exploded in my hand upon impact) pitched by a sidearm whiz from 40 feet away. That same waiter then waltzed up to paint the remnants of my fractured roll with molasses. Yep. On the other side of Springfield’s food scene is Leong’s Asian Diner, founded by a young Chinaman who was quickly drafted into WWII after immigrating to the US. In combat in Europe, he routinely dazzled his troopmates with his ability to render tasty meals from the ingredients of their otherwise nearly inedible rations. He later brought his recipes to Springfield and invented Springfield Style Cashew Chicken. The rest is history. My heartland luck multiplied when I got a mayoral sendoff. Springfield Mayor Robert Stephens bought me a beer at Springfield Brewing Company—which doubles as a local history museum. He then explained the deep relationship his city has with one of its sister cities, Isesaki, Japan; Springfield’s locals sent major donations to aid the nearby earthquake victims of 2011. Outside the brewery, he pointed at another form of his town’s charitable nature for their own homeless population, a retired and resurrected parking meter designed by MSU students that asked: Feed me to feed others. And that says it all. Springfield, Missouri, is not LA (Look, my cocktail is blue!), Boston (So, ah, you’re not from he-ah?), or Miami (Hmm, uneven tan?). A portion of the folks here might not be versed in ‘what’s happening’ on America’s salty coasts, but this true crossroads of the Heartland won’t let you down…unless, of course, you’re imagination stops short on Route’s 66’s musical pit-stop. For more information about Springfield, MO, go here. Springfield Brewing Co. “Do you need a ride?” –offer from elderly woman at Springfield Airport Author with Springfield Mayor Robert Stephens (and charitable parking meter) I’m nearing the detour in my travel writing career where I’m sometimes ready to just say no—I’m hoping it’s just a temporary burnout. To weather this hiatus, I’ve released my fourth book, The Directions to Happiness, which chronicles my 135-country quest for, well, everything. Feeling homey, I now pine for moments of Americana bliss. Given the chance to write about LA, Boston, Miami, or say, Springfield, Missouri, I’d choose the latter. Well, greetings from Springfield, Missouri, a classic stopover on old Route 66 and a blues music hub in the legendary Ozark Mountains. I’m pursuing Middle America’s music, food, personality, and timing—some destinations make you dig for the good stuff, but Springfield seems to be ready when you are. Kentucky Gentlemen. Image: Skip Kaltenheuser I’m here to tune into The Greater Ozarks Blues Festival. I’ve covered legendary music festivals—Telluride Bluegrass, Gathering of the Vibes, Woodstock II, Borneo’s Rainforest World Music—but have since tired of winding lines leading to porta-potties and cattle-style metal gate crowd control. The Greater Ozarks Blues Festival is now on my permanent hit-list; intimate, spacious, unencumbered, complete with amazing talent. This annual two-day affair (early September) allows the crowd to mingle with the acts before and after their gigs. Premiere local and regional bands are brought in by the Blues Society of the Ozarks. Held on the fringe of Springfield in the backyard of the American Legion Hall, this festival rounds out the fun with $3 beers and barbecue. Acts included Kentucky Gentlemen (hard blues duo of an electric guitar-playing singer and a bassist thumping a drum with his foot), the Brenda Meyer Band (take note Bonnie Raitt), and John Nemeth (classic harmonica-burning vocalist backed by a powerhouse retro blues band that can also bend toward soul or R&B). Ps, this blues storm is not a singular event. Springfield is bursting at the seams with venues that showcase the blues. Springfield’s retro Ramada Oasis Old “where you should stay advice” usually leans toward the “you’re only there to sleep” model, but I now view your snooze palace as vital to the overall travel experience. It can be all about the home base. The Ramada Oasis, on the “north side” of town, is another world set behind an otherwise generic turnpike setting—a behind-the-scenes retro world. Its 60s glam matches what Route 66 once represented to the USA: the trendy route between Chicago and Los Angeles. If James Bond visited Missouri in the 60s, this place would be his pad. Once the most sprawling Howard Johnson’s in the land, Ramada has since resurrected the glory of this 173-room classic—whose centerpiece, bisecting two rows of rooms, is an indoor soccer-court-sized atrium with pool, Jacuzzi, and lush jungle foliage. Its open-kitchen restaurant and ice bar, Fire & Ice, is the only part of the property not left to the past. Breakfast is included every morning in the atrium. It’s also a great work environment, I’ll miss the place. Brad Pitt’s hometown—rumor has it he was “a social” in high school—has many layers, including a deep-seeded music scene. I sat down with Ozark Mountain Daredevils founder Randle Chowning (one of the Daredevils enormous 70s hits was Jackie Blue). He explained how the legendary Ozark Jubilee television show (1955-60) either attracted or launched many famous acts, including Les Paul, Porter Wagner, Brenda Lee, and Chet Atkins. Springfield’s place on the then vital Route 66 meant that cross country traffic had no option but to tune in; the music makers knew this, and so did Si Siman, founder of the Ozark Jubilee. Other touristy music towns like Nashville or Memphis have lost their intimacy—Springfield is just now realizing its place in the history of American music. Smallin Civil War Cave Caving In: Missouri has an underworld, and I’m not talking about pawn shops or strip clubs. This is cave country, where geology, history, and unsung tour guides shine. I visited three… * Missouri Institute of Natural Science sits atop Riverbluff Cave, which was discovered on September 11, 2001. It was originally an open-ended half-mile tunnel that was sealed (and left undisturbed) by the elements 75,000 years ago. On that infamous date, a road crew was about to blow the entire area, tunnel included, for a new road, but blasting was halted nationwide. Later that day, they blew only two of the set charges by necessity, which opened up the cave again—inside they found 735,000-year-old bones of woolly mammoths, giant short-faced bears (make Grizzlies seem puny), and (gnarly) peccary pigs. Riverbluff Cave now has the ear of New York’s Museum of Natural History, and the world. A volunteer on a mission, Brett Houser, is part of a team excavating tons of silt in the newfound otherworld to find more skeletons. He told me that it’s only a matter of time before they find something that sends the eyes of the world here, hopefully in their lifetime. As the digging continues, they are finding remains in the sediment that date a million years. Stay tuned. *Fantastic Caverns—my daughter has taught me to enjoy kid-friendly charms. This is one. Imagine a rollercoaster ride on a red Jeep-drawn tram into the land of stone sculptures formed by millions of years of dripping water. A former speakeasy and music venue, this underworld will make you rethink entertaining in hard times. *Smallin Civil War Cave—Missouri was the most fought over state in the Union, having more per capita casualties than any other state. This beautiful cave served as a refuge for Confederate sympathizers. Smallin’s passionate tour guides not only know Civil War history, but the tour is an entertaining millennial odyssey through the ages of all things rock. With the largest cave opening in Missouri, it was used by Native Americans, then settlers. At 54-degrees year-round, the spring flowing through the cave has always been the neighborhood fridge. Previously, as a frequent grade-school visitor to Roosevelt Field (America’s first mega-mall on lovely Long Island), I viewed the only value in such expanses as mild shoplifting and the restaurant dine-and-dash. Returning to lawful citizenry by age 16, I then avoided malls like dentists. But, I found one that people who’ve even abandoned televisions might like, even if you don’t hunt (I don’t). Bass Pro Shops “granddaddy” store and national headquarters is here. The owner, John L. Morris, is not only the wealthiest man in Missouri but also one of the more environmentally active. Sure, he peddles hunting equipment, but he also redoubles awareness for sensible conservation. Four million people visit Springfield’s Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World every year, making it Missouri’s busiest attraction. This place resembles a sprawling, multi-theatre nature atrium, but it’s all one store. Inside, their mind-bending in-house gun museum, which starts at the very beginning, is where I learned that Native Americans called rifles “thunder sticks.” Moving on, the store overflows with indoor duck and alligator ponds. Every other wall is a mammoth aquarium; the fresh water aquariums alone make a visit worthwhile. Further telling, there is no shortage of fans who choose this “mall” as their honeymoon destination. Bass Pro Shops - Hemingway’s Blue Water Café. Image Skip Kaltenheuser. Suffering tourist traps is a state of mind. So, don’t let the café in Lambert’s Café throw you. This humongous tourist megahit serves up hog jowl with cucumber and onions in the salooniest multi-room restaurant to not serve alcohol. The menu doesn’t scream health food, but the trip to this roadside attraction is worth it just to witness “throwed rolls,” where waiters literally huck tasty bread rolls at/to customers. I caught one (which actually exploded in my hand upon impact) pitched by a sidearm whiz from 40 feet away. That same waiter then waltzed up to paint the remnants of my fractured roll with molasses. Yep. On the other side of Springfield’s food scene is Leong’s Asian Diner, founded by a young Chinaman who was quickly drafted into WWII after immigrating to the US. In combat in Europe, he routinely dazzled his troopmates with his ability to render tasty meals from the ingredients of their otherwise nearly inedible rations. He later brought his recipes to Springfield and invented Springfield Style Cashew Chicken. The rest is history. My heartland luck multiplied when I got a mayoral sendoff. Springfield Mayor Robert Stephens bought me a beer at Springfield Brewing Company—which doubles as a local history museum. He then explained the deep relationship his city has with one of its sister cities, Isesaki, Japan; Springfield’s locals sent major donations to aid the nearby earthquake victims of 2011. Outside the brewery, he pointed at another form of his town’s charitable nature for their own homeless population, a retired and resurrected parking meter designed by MSU students that asked: Feed me to feed others. And that says it all. Springfield, Missouri, is not LA (Look, my cocktail is blue!), Boston (So, ah, you’re not from he-ah?), or Miami (Hmm, uneven tan?). A portion of the folks here might not be versed in ‘what’s happening’ on America’s salty coasts, but this true crossroads of the Heartland won’t let you down…unless, of course, you’re imagination stops short on Route’s 66’s musical pit-stop. For more information about Springfield, MO, go here. Springfield Brewing Co. Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-09-29T16:00:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/recognize-pride-needs-no-flag http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/recognize-pride-needs-no-flag#When:10:00:00Z Cambodian pothead I’m sitting outside on a mini stool in northern Cambodia where my bent knees don’t fit under the table. A three-course meal arrives from the nearby food stall—a hard-boiled egg served as a delicacy with three additional finger bowls presenting spices, limes, and mint. Egg vendor #7, Chantheaea, giggles when she returns with a tiny long-handle spoon. Meanwhile, I watch two guys, Narit and Ponlok, shoot it out on a makeshift outdoor pool table. This jungle-encased village, Cheabb, probably won’t see electricity in the lifetime of these two pool sharks. Cambodia’s capital city, Phnom Penh, has just built its first shopping mall with an escalator that has become an instant tourist attraction. I realize later that Chantheaea was chuckling about my inside-out T-shirt. I haven’t passed a mirror in weeks. I’ve flown 15,000 miles by plane, over-nighted on a bench of a chugging riverboat, spent a day in the dusty cab of a puny Japanese pickup crammed with 10 riders, and then 10 hours on a wobbling motorbike sputtering on rutted, meandering jungle trails. The trail, barely worthy of foot traffic, frequently requires crossing rivers on slimy log bridges. It becomes impassable during the wet season. My brother Basil and I were repeatedly warned not to venture into this isolated region that’s supposedly rife with landmines and holdups by teams of bandits. However, our reward for forging ahead was a spontaneous night that fused a wedding and a bizarre theater odyssey. The first thing we saw in Cheabb was a mobile PA system announcing what later turned out to be a play. The PA system involved two guys on a motorbike rigged with a large horn on the handlebars connected to an amplifier sitting in the drivers lap. The rear passenger held a mike to a Walkman that made the announcements. In this off-the-grid destination, the wooden box houses are raised on six-foot stilts. In the shade below, black buffalo, pigs, and chickens reside. The people, mostly rice farmers, steal naps in hammocks slung between stilts under the houses or between the trees. Everyone we pass waves hello. My hunch is that once war-ravaged, perpetually destitute Cambodia had a lighter side, and I wasn’t quitting until we found it. Landmines, civil war, and genocide dominate many associations with Cambodia, but life has returned to a new version of normal, even in Preah Vihear Province, one of the poorest and most isolated. There’s no way for an outsider to know they’re crossing between the neighboring villages of Cheabb Lech and Cheabb Kart (Cheabb east and west). But that’s where we were invited into the soul of this village with zero tourism. In one magical night, we attended a wedding reception, which later segued into an outdoor theater performance, and then slept on the top cop’s porch. The wedding highlights included proud toasts ladled from a 35-gallon jug of homemade milky-fermented booze, dancing to insanely loud Cambodian pop, eating bugs, and listening to the best man speech in which he noted that the bride’s premiere hobby was jumping rope. The groom, dressed in a frumpy, oversized suit, couldn’t stop snickering during the should-be solemn slow dances. Our go-to-guy, the only one in town who could speak English, told us about the local pothead, a little girl who wears a red cooking pot as a hat. After the wedding reception, the group marched across town to join 200 people already seated on the ground before a stage that was amplified by a lone microphone hanging from a wire. The wooden stage set was draped in billowing, silky tarps. The performance, hours and hours of short bits, were punctuated by the manual closing of a dainty pink curtain. A flash photo (Basil’s) started a tizzy that startled the entire audience and made actors modify their act and speak in even higher pitched voices. Where there are no televisions, traveling troupes are still the stars. Within the crowd, several campfires were maintained to combat the 70-degree winter chill. At one point during the six-hour Khmer epic play, half of the audience suddenly stood up and gasped—a reverse domino effect that didn’t seem like a standing ovation. It wasn’t. A six-foot-long heat-seeking venomous snake had crawled into the audience. Once the snake was hacked in half by someone who happened to have a machete handy, the show resumed. Basil suggested that the snake’s demise might be a metaphor for what happens here when someone threatens married life. After the marathon performance, we feasted with the wedding gang, but passed on the cow stomach and dried blood patties that resembled black tofu cakes. After waking up on the hospitable police chief’s front porch, we visited several schools, all raised 12x12-foot platforms either under a home or outside covered by tarps. The blackboards were black paint on flat boards and the instructional guides were laminated posters, one for math and one for language. After Basil donated hordes of pens and notebooks to these makeshift schools, he also stepped in as interim teacher, which routinely inspired more laughter than learning. Despite the forewarnings about landmines and holdups, we ventured to Cheabb where the people, like most Cambodians, exemplify warmth, grace, and pride, which is incredible when considering the unspeakable horrors many of them have endured in their lifetime. In these more prosperous times, some still manage to survive on one dollar and 1,000 calories per day. The Khmer capacity to overcome extreme adversity and still welcome unannounced travelers with smiles and respect is humanity. Being the first foreigners to visit a place where they’ve never seen any is a traveler’s cliché—but when you unearth the last remnants of virgin turf in Southeast Asia, dignity and joy is what you’ll find. As my brother and I prepared to roll out of Cheabb, we enjoyed a final hard-boiled egg at the food stall. The newly married couple rode past and waved to us and all of the food stall workers. They were honeymoon bound—a visit to the other side of the village—which made the staff cheer wildly. That’s when it dawned on us that the bride was #7, our previous egg vendor, Chantheaea. Cambodian commuter *photos: Basil Northam Cambodian pothead I’m sitting outside on a mini stool in northern Cambodia where my bent knees don’t fit under the table. A three-course meal arrives from the nearby food stall—a hard-boiled egg served as a delicacy with three additional finger bowls presenting spices, limes, and mint. Egg vendor #7, Chantheaea, giggles when she returns with a tiny long-handle spoon. Meanwhile, I watch two guys, Narit and Ponlok, shoot it out on a makeshift outdoor pool table. This jungle-encased village, Cheabb, probably won’t see electricity in the lifetime of these two pool sharks. Cambodia’s capital city, Phnom Penh, has just built its first shopping mall with an escalator that has become an instant tourist attraction. I realize later that Chantheaea was chuckling about my inside-out T-shirt. I haven’t passed a mirror in weeks. I’ve flown 15,000 miles by plane, over-nighted on a bench of a chugging riverboat, spent a day in the dusty cab of a puny Japanese pickup crammed with 10 riders, and then 10 hours on a wobbling motorbike sputtering on rutted, meandering jungle trails. The trail, barely worthy of foot traffic, frequently requires crossing rivers on slimy log bridges. It becomes impassable during the wet season. My brother Basil and I were repeatedly warned not to venture into this isolated region that’s supposedly rife with landmines and holdups by teams of bandits. However, our reward for forging ahead was a spontaneous night that fused a wedding and a bizarre theater odyssey. The first thing we saw in Cheabb was a mobile PA system announcing what later turned out to be a play. The PA system involved two guys on a motorbike rigged with a large horn on the handlebars connected to an amplifier sitting in the drivers lap. The rear passenger held a mike to a Walkman that made the announcements. In this off-the-grid destination, the wooden box houses are raised on six-foot stilts. In the shade below, black buffalo, pigs, and chickens reside. The people, mostly rice farmers, steal naps in hammocks slung between stilts under the houses or between the trees. Everyone we pass waves hello. My hunch is that once war-ravaged, perpetually destitute Cambodia had a lighter side, and I wasn’t quitting until we found it. Landmines, civil war, and genocide dominate many associations with Cambodia, but life has returned to a new version of normal, even in Preah Vihear Province, one of the poorest and most isolated. There’s no way for an outsider to know they’re crossing between the neighboring villages of Cheabb Lech and Cheabb Kart (Cheabb east and west). But that’s where we were invited into the soul of this village with zero tourism. In one magical night, we attended a wedding reception, which later segued into an outdoor theater performance, and then slept on the top cop’s porch. The wedding highlights included proud toasts ladled from a 35-gallon jug of homemade milky-fermented booze, dancing to insanely loud Cambodian pop, eating bugs, and listening to the best man speech in which he noted that the bride’s premiere hobby was jumping rope. The groom, dressed in a frumpy, oversized suit, couldn’t stop snickering during the should-be solemn slow dances. Our go-to-guy, the only one in town who could speak English, told us about the local pothead, a little girl who wears a red cooking pot as a hat. After the wedding reception, the group marched across town to join 200 people already seated on the ground before a stage that was amplified by a lone microphone hanging from a wire. The wooden stage set was draped in billowing, silky tarps. The performance, hours and hours of short bits, were punctuated by the manual closing of a dainty pink curtain. A flash photo (Basil’s) started a tizzy that startled the entire audience and made actors modify their act and speak in even higher pitched voices. Where there are no televisions, traveling troupes are still the stars. Within the crowd, several campfires were maintained to combat the 70-degree winter chill. At one point during the six-hour Khmer epic play, half of the audience suddenly stood up and gasped—a reverse domino effect that didn’t seem like a standing ovation. It wasn’t. A six-foot-long heat-seeking venomous snake had crawled into the audience. Once the snake was hacked in half by someone who happened to have a machete handy, the show resumed. Basil suggested that the snake’s demise might be a metaphor for what happens here when someone threatens married life. After the marathon performance, we feasted with the wedding gang, but passed on the cow stomach and dried blood patties that resembled black tofu cakes. After waking up on the hospitable police chief’s front porch, we visited several schools, all raised 12x12-foot platforms either under a home or outside covered by tarps. The blackboards were black paint on flat boards and the instructional guides were laminated posters, one for math and one for language. After Basil donated hordes of pens and notebooks to these makeshift schools, he also stepped in as interim teacher, which routinely inspired more laughter than learning. Despite the forewarnings about landmines and holdups, we ventured to Cheabb where the people, like most Cambodians, exemplify warmth, grace, and pride, which is incredible when considering the unspeakable horrors many of them have endured in their lifetime. In these more prosperous times, some still manage to survive on one dollar and 1,000 calories per day. The Khmer capacity to overcome extreme adversity and still welcome unannounced travelers with smiles and respect is humanity. Being the first foreigners to visit a place where they’ve never seen any is a traveler’s cliché—but when you unearth the last remnants of virgin turf in Southeast Asia, dignity and joy is what you’ll find. As my brother and I prepared to roll out of Cheabb, we enjoyed a final hard-boiled egg at the food stall. The newly married couple rode past and waved to us and all of the food stall workers. They were honeymoon bound—a visit to the other side of the village—which made the staff cheer wildly. That’s when it dawned on us that the bride was #7, our previous egg vendor, Chantheaea. Cambodian commuter *photos: Basil Northam Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-08-28T10:00:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/an-interview-with-the-travel-detective http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/an-interview-with-the-travel-detective#When:13:00:00Z Peter Greenberg, “The Travel Detective” and the Travel Editor for CBS News, is no doubt a man of the world—who also keeps a foothold on Long Island. I was curious to hear this multiple Emmy-winning investigative reporter’s take on “the island” (Long Island) I know well… about the good and perhaps not so good. Q. You have a house on Fire Island. Do you have other connections to Long Island? A. Well, you can’t have a place on Fire Island without being connected to Long Island. Of course, I know Bay Shore very well, because that’s the boat gateway to Fire Island. I do all my shopping on Long Island. I try to fly as much as possible out of McArthur Airport in Islip, which remains New York’s secret airport. Q. Why Fire Island? A. My parents brought me there when I was six months old. I spent every summer there growing up. It’s the best possible place for kids—no cars—only bicycles and wagons. And as much as I travel the world (420,000 real air miles a year), I race back to Fire Island every chance I get because it remains for me a wonderful opportunity to relive my youth, my freedom, and my innocence. It’s also the place where I sleep the best. In his spare time, Peter Greenberg is a volunteer firefighter on Fire Island Q. The crowded Hamptons aside, why should Americans and foreigners visit Long Island? A. Yes let’s keep the Hamptons out of it. I prefer to call Fire Island the Hamptons without the attitude! And the best time to go? May, or the magic month of September. And I’m not one of those Memorial Day to Labor Day fair weather folks—I’m on Fire Island from March thru early December. I also do Thanksgiving there each year. Q. Do you fancy Long Island wine? A. With my travel schedule, I drink as little as possible, but Long Island Wine has certainly improved in recent years. Peter Greenberg outside the Westgate Mall during the terrorist attacks in Nairobi, Kenya Q. What do most travelers not know about Long Island? A. Most travelers don’t know anything about Long Island. Americans are the most geographically ignorant people on the planet—no surprise when you consider that only about 37-percent of Americans even have a passport. And there’s no guarantee among the 37-percent that do have passports that they have even looked at a map. Q. I grew up in Garden City (amid Nassau County’s commuters) and my parents later moved to Southold (amid Suffolk County’s vineyards), so I appreciate Long Island’s variety. What advice does The Travel Detective have about visiting there? A. Forget the Long Island Expressway or the Southern State Parkway. Head east on the Old Sunrise Highway and find main street in every Long Island town. Take your time, and discover a number of great destinations. Q. Long Island is chided as “Strong Island,” “The Guyland,” and other slags via the likes of a few infamous knuckleheads. How do stereotypes like this impact regional tourism? A. I understand those stereotypes—and know many of them personally! In fact, without exception, Long Island is the only place where a number of my friends call me “Pete” and I don’t mind—because my long island friends are real. Peter Greenberg inside the cockpit of an Airbus A320 while filming his public television series The Travel Detective   Peter Greenberg, “The Travel Detective” and the Travel Editor for CBS News, is no doubt a man of the world—who also keeps a foothold on Long Island. I was curious to hear this multiple Emmy-winning investigative reporter’s take on “the island” (Long Island) I know well… about the good and perhaps not so good. Q. You have a house on Fire Island. Do you have other connections to Long Island? A. Well, you can’t have a place on Fire Island without being connected to Long Island. Of course, I know Bay Shore very well, because that’s the boat gateway to Fire Island. I do all my shopping on Long Island. I try to fly as much as possible out of McArthur Airport in Islip, which remains New York’s secret airport. Q. Why Fire Island? A. My parents brought me there when I was six months old. I spent every summer there growing up. It’s the best possible place for kids—no cars—only bicycles and wagons. And as much as I travel the world (420,000 real air miles a year), I race back to Fire Island every chance I get because it remains for me a wonderful opportunity to relive my youth, my freedom, and my innocence. It’s also the place where I sleep the best. In his spare time, Peter Greenberg is a volunteer firefighter on Fire Island Q. The crowded Hamptons aside, why should Americans and foreigners visit Long Island? A. Yes let’s keep the Hamptons out of it. I prefer to call Fire Island the Hamptons without the attitude! And the best time to go? May, or the magic month of September. And I’m not one of those Memorial Day to Labor Day fair weather folks—I’m on Fire Island from March thru early December. I also do Thanksgiving there each year. Q. Do you fancy Long Island wine? A. With my travel schedule, I drink as little as possible, but Long Island Wine has certainly improved in recent years. Peter Greenberg outside the Westgate Mall during the terrorist attacks in Nairobi, Kenya Q. What do most travelers not know about Long Island? A. Most travelers don’t know anything about Long Island. Americans are the most geographically ignorant people on the planet—no surprise when you consider that only about 37-percent of Americans even have a passport. And there’s no guarantee among the 37-percent that do have passports that they have even looked at a map. Q. I grew up in Garden City (amid Nassau County’s commuters) and my parents later moved to Southold (amid Suffolk County’s vineyards), so I appreciate Long Island’s variety. What advice does The Travel Detective have about visiting there? A. Forget the Long Island Expressway or the Southern State Parkway. Head east on the Old Sunrise Highway and find main street in every Long Island town. Take your time, and discover a number of great destinations. Q. Long Island is chided as “Strong Island,” “The Guyland,” and other slags via the likes of a few infamous knuckleheads. How do stereotypes like this impact regional tourism? A. I understand those stereotypes—and know many of them personally! In fact, without exception, Long Island is the only place where a number of my friends call me “Pete” and I don’t mind—because my long island friends are real. Peter Greenberg inside the cockpit of an Airbus A320 while filming his public television series The Travel Detective   Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-07-30T13:00:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/defining-delaware http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/defining-delaware#When:09:26:00Z Wilmington, Delaware’s Riverfront Wilmington, Delaware, had always been that Amtrak station between Philadelphia and Baltimore that I’d never visited. Until now. Surprisingly, a three-mile ride from downtown Wilmington is a transformation into the wide-open picturesque Brandywine Valley—the nearly immediate scenery change is akin to opening a curtain into a new pastoral world. Montchanin’s “barn” The Brandywine Valley Village of Montchanin is a step back into a simple, elegant time in American history—and the DuPont family legacy. It was named for the grandmother of the founder of the DuPont Gunpowder Company. The Montchanin Inn features 11 meticulously restored buildings dating from 1799. Nine of the 11 buildings served as homes for the gunpowder factory workers. Today, you can stay in any one of them, as they have been restored with all of the comforts you’d expect in any fine hotel. Many of Montchanin’s finely appointed houses have private, manicured courtyards, fireplaces, and a knack for bringing you back into the heart and soul of early Americana. Each of the 28 guest rooms and suites have their own charming personalities. A mix of old and new, the modern marble bathrooms have Jacuzzi-sized bathtubs. Montchanin’s reception area The homey reception area and the adjacent common room “barn,” which once housed cows, double as a period museum. Hand-picked photos, paintings, furniture, and relics grace the high-ceiling space that’s centered by a gigantic fireplace. This all makes checking in here much more than a swipe of your credit card. The front desk staff are all trained in emergency “historic” maintenance, such as being able to adjust loose antique doorknobs. Small luxury hotels with big old hearts need special TLC. The capstone of its luxurious offerings is The Spa at Montchanin Village—an addition to the inn’s barn. It features signature treatments in five rooms and skin care lines that blend plants, pure essential oils, and technology. This standout spa in Delaware has veteran masseuses that will seek and destroy any ache you declare. Reminiscent of bygone rural England, this former working-class village is now a landmark refuge owned by a seventh generation DuPont relative. The inviting grounds are a hit with history buffs, wedding groups (especially second and third weddings, which allegedly are way more relaxed), and conference attendees. This quaint mini campus of carriage lanes and garden-lined pathways also features a dozen birdhouses that add to the warmth of this restored nineteenth century hamlet. Krazy Kat’s Restaurant is Montchanin’s fine dining option specializing in hearty Northeast cuisine. The waitresses wear smart neckties and the local handcrafted brews are only $5. Quirky, dressed-up dog and cat pictures line the walls as locals and hotel guests comingle. Krazy Kat’s, a former blacksmith shop, also delivers to The Spa. The Crow’s Nest, once an indoor parking lot for horse-drawn carriages, sits atop Krazy Kat’s and is available for meetings and receptions. Montchanin is Delaware’s take on Colonial Williamsburg. Revived downtown Wilmington has a crown jewel hotel and great restaurants… Hotel DuPont’s Green Room * Hotel DuPont is Delaware’s architectural crown-jewel, and a landmark on the National Register of Historic Places. A mesmerizing tribute to Italian walnut and early 20th century art, it doubles as a swank American history museum. Classic paintings—including originals by three members of the famed Wyeth family—and gilded moldings don the walls. The Green Room, its signature restaurant, is (in my opinion) one of the fanciest places you can have breakfast in urban America. Within the sprawling building, the archetypal DuPont Theater, a mini Radio City, has never gone dark since 1913 (no other theatre can make this claim). The hotel, originally built to house DuPont employees, is a tribute to a company that has been awarded 38,500 U.S. Patents since 1802—including 935 in 2012, the most in DuPont history. Harry’s Seafood Restaurant * Harry’s Seafood Restaurant—an incredible spot for a seafood binge—helped pioneer the city’s riverfront revival when it opened in 2003. Two evolving daily menus serve up fresh fish, some of it flown in from as far away as Hawaii and Alaska; the oyster selection also catches air en route from British Colombia. Set along the tidal Christina River, this airy, naturally lit 15,000-square-foot space is bisected by a fireplace and a 25-seat square bar (my suggestion for dining, as you can enjoy the amiable flow). The enormous, refreshing space serves 150 people at once, with room to breathe. That number grows to 250 people when the riverside front deck opens. Meatheads will savor its varieties of grass-fed beef. Domaine Hudson’s Cheese Board * Cozy and established, Domaine Hudson restaurant is where Delawarians land downtown for special occasions. Its award-winning food and wine take no back seats to its metropolitan neighbors, Baltimore and Philadelphia. Here, relaxed pros serve their simple menu. Theres no fine wine pomp, just the facts from veteran servers or a Vino-Pad, an iPad wine encyclopedia. Its “Wine Flights” offer three pours of three wines. I sampled the Pinot Envy, with offerings from Oregon, California, and Chile. A server writes the wine’s corresponding menu number on the base of the glass, which is helpful for sampling (or spacing out). Even hardcore wine snobs will be impressed by their selection. The old-school ambiance is illuminated by an experienced staff. Before enjoying the classic fish and meat dishes, try the Blackened Beets (whipped ricotta, blueberry puree, red-chili vinaigrette) and the Cheese Board (artisan cheeses individually paired with house-made accompaniments), both odysseys for your tastebuds. * Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant is a straight-ahead and unassuming brewpub—unless you fall into the beer-nerd category, in which case you’ll be kept very busy. This spacious riverside fun zone has two floors, two bars, and a menu with something for everyone. Warm weather adds two huge decks and another two bars that overlook the river. The space is family-friendly in one section, and more hip in the other. A dozen gigantic booths add to the restaurant’s fluidity. Dupont Environmental Education Center * The Wilmington Riverfront pedestrian walkway’s terminus is the Dupont Environmental Education Center an old I-95 dumping ground that was recently excavated and resurrected back into the pond it once was as part of a wider urban wildlife refuge project. * The Amtrak trip—the bargain “slow train” still makes great time—from New York City to Wilmington takes less than two hours. www.amtrak.com. Wilmington, Delaware’s skyline *All photos by Bruce Northam except Dupont Education Center by Rod Hampton and Wilmington skyline by Leslie Kipp. Wilmington, Delaware’s Riverfront Wilmington, Delaware, had always been that Amtrak station between Philadelphia and Baltimore that I’d never visited. Until now. Surprisingly, a three-mile ride from downtown Wilmington is a transformation into the wide-open picturesque Brandywine Valley—the nearly immediate scenery change is akin to opening a curtain into a new pastoral world. Montchanin’s “barn” The Brandywine Valley Village of Montchanin is a step back into a simple, elegant time in American history—and the DuPont family legacy. It was named for the grandmother of the founder of the DuPont Gunpowder Company. The Montchanin Inn features 11 meticulously restored buildings dating from 1799. Nine of the 11 buildings served as homes for the gunpowder factory workers. Today, you can stay in any one of them, as they have been restored with all of the comforts you’d expect in any fine hotel. Many of Montchanin’s finely appointed houses have private, manicured courtyards, fireplaces, and a knack for bringing you back into the heart and soul of early Americana. Each of the 28 guest rooms and suites have their own charming personalities. A mix of old and new, the modern marble bathrooms have Jacuzzi-sized bathtubs. Montchanin’s reception area The homey reception area and the adjacent common room “barn,” which once housed cows, double as a period museum. Hand-picked photos, paintings, furniture, and relics grace the high-ceiling space that’s centered by a gigantic fireplace. This all makes checking in here much more than a swipe of your credit card. The front desk staff are all trained in emergency “historic” maintenance, such as being able to adjust loose antique doorknobs. Small luxury hotels with big old hearts need special TLC. The capstone of its luxurious offerings is The Spa at Montchanin Village—an addition to the inn’s barn. It features signature treatments in five rooms and skin care lines that blend plants, pure essential oils, and technology. This standout spa in Delaware has veteran masseuses that will seek and destroy any ache you declare. Reminiscent of bygone rural England, this former working-class village is now a landmark refuge owned by a seventh generation DuPont relative. The inviting grounds are a hit with history buffs, wedding groups (especially second and third weddings, which allegedly are way more relaxed), and conference attendees. This quaint mini campus of carriage lanes and garden-lined pathways also features a dozen birdhouses that add to the warmth of this restored nineteenth century hamlet. Krazy Kat’s Restaurant is Montchanin’s fine dining option specializing in hearty Northeast cuisine. The waitresses wear smart neckties and the local handcrafted brews are only $5. Quirky, dressed-up dog and cat pictures line the walls as locals and hotel guests comingle. Krazy Kat’s, a former blacksmith shop, also delivers to The Spa. The Crow’s Nest, once an indoor parking lot for horse-drawn carriages, sits atop Krazy Kat’s and is available for meetings and receptions. Montchanin is Delaware’s take on Colonial Williamsburg. Revived downtown Wilmington has a crown jewel hotel and great restaurants… Hotel DuPont’s Green Room * Hotel DuPont is Delaware’s architectural crown-jewel, and a landmark on the National Register of Historic Places. A mesmerizing tribute to Italian walnut and early 20th century art, it doubles as a swank American history museum. Classic paintings—including originals by three members of the famed Wyeth family—and gilded moldings don the walls. The Green Room, its signature restaurant, is (in my opinion) one of the fanciest places you can have breakfast in urban America. Within the sprawling building, the archetypal DuPont Theater, a mini Radio City, has never gone dark since 1913 (no other theatre can make this claim). The hotel, originally built to house DuPont employees, is a tribute to a company that has been awarded 38,500 U.S. Patents since 1802—including 935 in 2012, the most in DuPont history. Harry’s Seafood Restaurant * Harry’s Seafood Restaurant—an incredible spot for a seafood binge—helped pioneer the city’s riverfront revival when it opened in 2003. Two evolving daily menus serve up fresh fish, some of it flown in from as far away as Hawaii and Alaska; the oyster selection also catches air en route from British Colombia. Set along the tidal Christina River, this airy, naturally lit 15,000-square-foot space is bisected by a fireplace and a 25-seat square bar (my suggestion for dining, as you can enjoy the amiable flow). The enormous, refreshing space serves 150 people at once, with room to breathe. That number grows to 250 people when the riverside front deck opens. Meatheads will savor its varieties of grass-fed beef. Domaine Hudson’s Cheese Board * Cozy and established, Domaine Hudson restaurant is where Delawarians land downtown for special occasions. Its award-winning food and wine take no back seats to its metropolitan neighbors, Baltimore and Philadelphia. Here, relaxed pros serve their simple menu. Theres no fine wine pomp, just the facts from veteran servers or a Vino-Pad, an iPad wine encyclopedia. Its “Wine Flights” offer three pours of three wines. I sampled the Pinot Envy, with offerings from Oregon, California, and Chile. A server writes the wine’s corresponding menu number on the base of the glass, which is helpful for sampling (or spacing out). Even hardcore wine snobs will be impressed by their selection. The old-school ambiance is illuminated by an experienced staff. Before enjoying the classic fish and meat dishes, try the Blackened Beets (whipped ricotta, blueberry puree, red-chili vinaigrette) and the Cheese Board (artisan cheeses individually paired with house-made accompaniments), both odysseys for your tastebuds. * Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant is a straight-ahead and unassuming brewpub—unless you fall into the beer-nerd category, in which case you’ll be kept very busy. This spacious riverside fun zone has two floors, two bars, and a menu with something for everyone. Warm weather adds two huge decks and another two bars that overlook the river. The space is family-friendly in one section, and more hip in the other. A dozen gigantic booths add to the restaurant’s fluidity. Dupont Environmental Education Center * The Wilmington Riverfront pedestrian walkway’s terminus is the Dupont Environmental Education Center an old I-95 dumping ground that was recently excavated and resurrected back into the pond it once was as part of a wider urban wildlife refuge project. * The Amtrak trip—the bargain “slow train” still makes great time—from New York City to Wilmington takes less than two hours. www.amtrak.com. Wilmington, Delaware’s skyline *All photos by Bruce Northam except Dupont Education Center by Rod Hampton and Wilmington skyline by Leslie Kipp. Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-05-17T09:26:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/new-york-travel-festival1 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/new-york-travel-festival1#When:19:01:00Z Unlike the other generic trade show-like travel conferences, the more intimate New York Travel Festival goes beyond brochures and vendor booths and brings you face-to-face with the industry’s movers and shakers. The NY “TravFest” hosts panels, interactive discussions, and hands-on workshops dealing with hot-button travel topics and trends that will inspire and enhance your travel planning. This show is about making direct access to travel industry experts easy. Held in Manhattan’s charming Bohemian National Hall, the festival for tech-savvy, immersive travelers starts at 9 a.m. on Saturday, April 26. It continues on Sunday, April 27 at Hostelling International - New York. Standard consumer tickets cost $45 in advance or $60 at the door. This ticket grants full-weekend (Saturday and Sunday) access to:

* Talks and panels from top names in the travel industry, including presentations by writers, editors and photographers from AFAR, the Major Media Partner of NY TravFest 2014. * Fantrotter.com founder Mike Coletta will be hosting Travel 2.0 @ #NYTF, a full-day session which will explore current travel innovation trends, and offer opportunities to discover new and up-and-coming tech travel companies. 
* Festival-only discounts from select sponsors. 
* In-venue giveaways, including gift certificates of up to $300 from ClothingArts.com, who make the awesome pickpocket-proof travel pants. 
* Mezcal and food pairings at the Mexico bar. 
Sunday, April 27 is designed around inspiration for people new to travel. Lee Abbamonte–the youngest American to visit every country in the world–is the Sunday afternoon keynote. Later, G Adventures founder Bruce Poon Tip is the headline speaker for the Matador Network Speaker Series in a session entitled Transformation in Travel. Poon Tip will discuss lessons from his experiences as an entrepreneur and sustainable-travel advocate, as well as his new book, Looptail. 
 Tickets for Sunday, April 27, are available for $12 in advance $15 at the door. All ticket holders receive discounts on NYC tours offered before, during and after the festival by a selection of New York City–based tour companies in partnership with the NY TravFest. Bohemian National Hall: 321 East 73rd Street, between 1st and 2nd avenues in Manhattan Hostelling International - New York: 891 Amsterdam Avenue, at 104th Street in Manhattan
 * More details on http://nytravfest.com. *For NY TravFest tickets, visit http://bitly.com/NYTF2014. * For a complete schedule, see http://nytravfest.com/2014-full-schedule/. * For news and updates about the NY TravFest, go to http://nytravfest.com/2014. 
 or @NYtravfest (Twitter) Unlike the other generic trade show-like travel conferences, the more intimate New York Travel Festival goes beyond brochures and vendor booths and brings you face-to-face with the industry’s movers and shakers. The NY “TravFest” hosts panels, interactive discussions, and hands-on workshops dealing with hot-button travel topics and trends that will inspire and enhance your travel planning. This show is about making direct access to travel industry experts easy. Held in Manhattan’s charming Bohemian National Hall, the festival for tech-savvy, immersive travelers starts at 9 a.m. on Saturday, April 26. It continues on Sunday, April 27 at Hostelling International - New York. Standard consumer tickets cost $45 in advance or $60 at the door. This ticket grants full-weekend (Saturday and Sunday) access to:

* Talks and panels from top names in the travel industry, including presentations by writers, editors and photographers from AFAR, the Major Media Partner of NY TravFest 2014. * Fantrotter.com founder Mike Coletta will be hosting Travel 2.0 @ #NYTF, a full-day session which will explore current travel innovation trends, and offer opportunities to discover new and up-and-coming tech travel companies. 
* Festival-only discounts from select sponsors. 
* In-venue giveaways, including gift certificates of up to $300 from ClothingArts.com, who make the awesome pickpocket-proof travel pants. 
* Mezcal and food pairings at the Mexico bar. 
Sunday, April 27 is designed around inspiration for people new to travel. Lee Abbamonte–the youngest American to visit every country in the world–is the Sunday afternoon keynote. Later, G Adventures founder Bruce Poon Tip is the headline speaker for the Matador Network Speaker Series in a session entitled Transformation in Travel. Poon Tip will discuss lessons from his experiences as an entrepreneur and sustainable-travel advocate, as well as his new book, Looptail. 
 Tickets for Sunday, April 27, are available for $12 in advance $15 at the door. All ticket holders receive discounts on NYC tours offered before, during and after the festival by a selection of New York City–based tour companies in partnership with the NY TravFest. Bohemian National Hall: 321 East 73rd Street, between 1st and 2nd avenues in Manhattan Hostelling International - New York: 891 Amsterdam Avenue, at 104th Street in Manhattan
 * More details on http://nytravfest.com. *For NY TravFest tickets, visit http://bitly.com/NYTF2014. * For a complete schedule, see http://nytravfest.com/2014-full-schedule/. * For news and updates about the NY TravFest, go to http://nytravfest.com/2014. 
 or @NYtravfest (Twitter) Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-04-23T19:01:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/how-one-guitar-will-save-the-world http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/how-one-guitar-will-save-the-world#When:19:33:00Z Girl carrying clouds in El Hato, Guatemala Rarely does a written story make me laugh out loud, but “The Day I Did Not Meet Kenya’s Prime Minister” did just that. So, I emailed the author. A few months later, I met Luke Maguire Armstrong, a guy who, in the midst of hitchhiking from Chile to Alaska, got happily stuck in Guatemala for four years. Since then, we meet whenever he breezes through New York City. I wrote about life on the road while traveling pretty much constantly for 20 years until mellowing into “home life,” which now means taking 10 disconnected trips a year—with each trip now having predetermined return dates. Those vagabond years defined me and make me a tough customer when it comes to enjoying a travel tale. I know a lot of travel writers, but only one who is truly, almost constantly still out there. As opposed to the long-weekend warriors attempting to take over travel writing via minute-by-minute blogging, Luke Maguire Armstrong lives on the road and patiently crafts tales that stand the test of time. The author of How We Are Human supports himself by writing, playing music, and spearheading ongoing humanitarian efforts in Guatemala, Uganda, Kenya, and New York. Recently, we sat down for a chat in Bushwick, Brooklyn, while he paused between a stint in Iceland, where he started the band “Loki and the Fashion Bandits” and a return to one of his first loves, Guatemala.  Talking to Maasai Warrior about how one must kill a lion to become a man. Q. At what point in your life did you know it was time to hit the road and not look back? When it seemed my plan was falling apart. A year ago this month, I arrived from Nairobi to New York City after three months in Kenya covering the 2013 elections as a freelance journalist and working pro-bono to put two children orphaned by AIDs in school. I returned to NYC worse than broke. My trip to Kenya, that was supposed to earn me an income, left me $5,000 in credit card debt. I had fifty bucks cash in my pocket and a friend’s couch to sleep on for a week or so. That marked my one-year anniversary of trying to make the mobile writer lifestyle work. I paced that small Brooklyn apartment and looked at my guitar. She looked back as if to say, “Don’t look at me, this is the life you made for yourself.” I swore silently and made a decision to cut off my lifeboats. I decided then that if I made $100 a month doing what I loved, then that was what I lived off. If I wanted to have a life more glamorous than a homeless person’s, I was going to have to work harder and smarter. I spent my last $50 on business cards, opened my laptop, started writing, and stopped looking back. Q. Most people might have thrown the towel in well before that point, what caused you to stick it out so long? I needed that gun to my head—that Yoda on my shoulder telling me, “Do or do not, there is no try.” When failure is not an option, your success is measured by degree. Also, “coming of age” in the expatriate scene of Antigua, Guatemala, made a nomadic life seem like a logical next step. Q. What prior experiences led you to that small Brooklyn apartment? While finishing my last semester of college as an exchange student in Chile in 2007, I read the book Into The Wild, took the wrong message from it, procured a $7,000 student loan, ditched my return ticket home, and started to hitchhike from Chile to Alaska. My family has a rich history making rash decisions abroad that affects the course of everyone’s lives—my parents met in the Marshal Islands as Peace Corps volunteers and decided to get married after a few weeks of dating. Near that time, my dad was thrown out of The Peace Corps for building a radio station instead of a tomato garden. My plans on the road were to volunteer along the way and begin earning a living as a writer before my student loan ran out. I met an Irish travel writer at a campfire on a beach on the Caribbean coast of Colombia, and he told me, “Do what you want to do in life. There will be always someone who will pay you for it.” We’ve all heard some variation of this, but at the time I was 22 and it was my first time. It was an exciting notion. I listened to the lapping of waves and thought about my peers. It seemed like most of them put off doing what they really wanted to do to some future date. I never really bought into that model as viable for life and have always been happier for it. Guatemala’s Volcanos: Acatenango, Agua and Fuego.   Q. How did you end up making a four-year stopover in Guatemala? Book-length story short, I thought my writing would support my humanitarian habit, but for four years my humanitarian work supported my writing habit. Many thought taking out that $7,000 student loan to travel was a dumb plan, but in the end it led to a career that paid off that loan and most of my others. For four years, I worked in Antigua, Guatemala, as the program director for the charity Nuestros Ahijados. My 11th day volunteering at the project, the director quit and the executive director and founder somehow thought giving me, a 22-year-old, the position was a good idea. I administered 12 programs, fund-raised to meet the budgetary gaps that most NGOs suffered in 2008, and managed a staff of 50 employees and 500 annual volunteers. The project provided education and health resources for people to break out of poverty and had a program to rescue victims of human trafficking. It was a wonderful job where every day felt impactful, and I can’t imagine living life today without the many lessons I learned from that opportunity. In 2010, Christiane Amanpour came to Guatemala to interview me about a malnourished infant centered I had opened and ran for Nuestros Ahijados. Orphans in Kisii, Kenya, promise to study hard if they are given money to go to school. Q. Because you’ve worked with traveling women victimized by crimes in places like Central America, I imagine you would be the right guy explain the rules of the road to my daughter in a few years. What is your core advice to women traveling in distant lands? Aside from warning them to stay away from my friend Andres, I would say women travelers by the unique nature of the dangers they face are far ballsier than their male counterparts traveling the same road. Be smart ladies, and trust your instincts. No, be smarter than smart. Be a femme fatale traveling Jedi warrior woman who is always one step ahead of anyone that would harm you. You don’t need to actively distrust strangers—most people are good. But never trust anyone you’ve just met 100-percent. People who want to hurt you or take things from you use your trust as their camouflage.  Do your research. What does the guidebook say about safety? What do expats know? What do other travelers say? What do the locals know? What does your embassy say? All of these sources should be looked into, because each provides an important piece to the puzzle of how safe a place is and what you should do to avoid the dangers. If the streets aren’t safe at night, get yourself a reliable cabby who doesn’t drink on the job. If that doesn’t fit into your budget, give your pops Bruce a pouty face and remind him how much he loves you, and I bet he’ll grab your taxi bill. He would have just spent it on beer anyway. Speaking of beer, don’t leave your drink unattended, and don’t accept a drink that you did not watch the bartender make.  Mother and calf in Kenya’s Maasai Mara Reserve. Q. I would imagine that playing music live puts you on a fast track into cool, wild, or bizarre situations. Does it? I’m not sure if it’s my guitar or the crazy person playing it (see Luke perform here), but the short answer is yes. Playing the guitar is a great way to meet people and gain access to places. Most of the stories stemming from this fact are long. One short story that comes to mind is when my guitar led me to an underground gambling ring of chicken bus drivers in the lakeside village of San Pedro, Guatemala. My guitar and I were both drunk. The rest of my friends had gone to bed at a reasonable time. My late-night guitar playing by the lake led to a man named Juan approaching me and inviting me to this underground gambling ring he knew of on the outskirts of town. It looked like a tough crowd and a rough game. I made a point of losing $20 to keep them from pulling out the guns I could see bulging from their belts and just taking what they wanted. It could have gone even more loco, because one of them asked me if I would be his “frog”—the guy on the bus that collects the money and shouts out the destinations. He was drunk and about to drive to Xela, Guatemala. It was 5am. He said he could get me back by noon. This was a very tempting offer. I did not have a phone with me to inform my friends at the hotel why I would have failed to materialize in the morning, so I declined. I took a few more shots of the fire water the bus driver insisted I try and called it a night just as the dawn ticked up on the horizon. Q. What’s next for you? You say you’re committed to the path you’re on now, but what specifically is that path? It’s a winding one, and there are always surprises on it. I plan to continue to write and continually take that craft to a new level. I am finishing a non-fiction book about my four years living in Guatemala and courting various publishers for my completed novel How One Guitar Will Save The World. Humanitarian-wise, I am going to continue to fundraise and deploy that capital with charities that I have vetted as being sustainable and making tangible differences. My music has recently taken on a life of its own, and I have an LP coming out soon called “Luke Maguire Armstrong: Eaten By a Horse.” Oh, and we can’t forget women. I hope to run into some of them. Specifically, I hope to meet one as crazy as I am, who will let me buy a puppy to “nip at our heels.” ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Luke Maguire Armstrong is a frequent contributor to Perceptive Travel, an award-winning site with the best travel stories from wandering book authors. His current project, Travel Bloggers Without Borders, is an effort to raise $10,000 to take 55 children off the streets in Guatemala and place them in school.  Fire and ice: Sunset view of wash from Iceland’s Jökulsárlón Glacier. Girl carrying clouds in El Hato, Guatemala Rarely does a written story make me laugh out loud, but “The Day I Did Not Meet Kenya’s Prime Minister” did just that. So, I emailed the author. A few months later, I met Luke Maguire Armstrong, a guy who, in the midst of hitchhiking from Chile to Alaska, got happily stuck in Guatemala for four years. Since then, we meet whenever he breezes through New York City. I wrote about life on the road while traveling pretty much constantly for 20 years until mellowing into “home life,” which now means taking 10 disconnected trips a year—with each trip now having predetermined return dates. Those vagabond years defined me and make me a tough customer when it comes to enjoying a travel tale. I know a lot of travel writers, but only one who is truly, almost constantly still out there. As opposed to the long-weekend warriors attempting to take over travel writing via minute-by-minute blogging, Luke Maguire Armstrong lives on the road and patiently crafts tales that stand the test of time. The author of How We Are Human supports himself by writing, playing music, and spearheading ongoing humanitarian efforts in Guatemala, Uganda, Kenya, and New York. Recently, we sat down for a chat in Bushwick, Brooklyn, while he paused between a stint in Iceland, where he started the band “Loki and the Fashion Bandits” and a return to one of his first loves, Guatemala.  Talking to Maasai Warrior about how one must kill a lion to become a man. Q. At what point in your life did you know it was time to hit the road and not look back? When it seemed my plan was falling apart. A year ago this month, I arrived from Nairobi to New York City after three months in Kenya covering the 2013 elections as a freelance journalist and working pro-bono to put two children orphaned by AIDs in school. I returned to NYC worse than broke. My trip to Kenya, that was supposed to earn me an income, left me $5,000 in credit card debt. I had fifty bucks cash in my pocket and a friend’s couch to sleep on for a week or so. That marked my one-year anniversary of trying to make the mobile writer lifestyle work. I paced that small Brooklyn apartment and looked at my guitar. She looked back as if to say, “Don’t look at me, this is the life you made for yourself.” I swore silently and made a decision to cut off my lifeboats. I decided then that if I made $100 a month doing what I loved, then that was what I lived off. If I wanted to have a life more glamorous than a homeless person’s, I was going to have to work harder and smarter. I spent my last $50 on business cards, opened my laptop, started writing, and stopped looking back. Q. Most people might have thrown the towel in well before that point, what caused you to stick it out so long? I needed that gun to my head—that Yoda on my shoulder telling me, “Do or do not, there is no try.” When failure is not an option, your success is measured by degree. Also, “coming of age” in the expatriate scene of Antigua, Guatemala, made a nomadic life seem like a logical next step. Q. What prior experiences led you to that small Brooklyn apartment? While finishing my last semester of college as an exchange student in Chile in 2007, I read the book Into The Wild, took the wrong message from it, procured a $7,000 student loan, ditched my return ticket home, and started to hitchhike from Chile to Alaska. My family has a rich history making rash decisions abroad that affects the course of everyone’s lives—my parents met in the Marshal Islands as Peace Corps volunteers and decided to get married after a few weeks of dating. Near that time, my dad was thrown out of The Peace Corps for building a radio station instead of a tomato garden. My plans on the road were to volunteer along the way and begin earning a living as a writer before my student loan ran out. I met an Irish travel writer at a campfire on a beach on the Caribbean coast of Colombia, and he told me, “Do what you want to do in life. There will be always someone who will pay you for it.” We’ve all heard some variation of this, but at the time I was 22 and it was my first time. It was an exciting notion. I listened to the lapping of waves and thought about my peers. It seemed like most of them put off doing what they really wanted to do to some future date. I never really bought into that model as viable for life and have always been happier for it. Guatemala’s Volcanos: Acatenango, Agua and Fuego.   Q. How did you end up making a four-year stopover in Guatemala? Book-length story short, I thought my writing would support my humanitarian habit, but for four years my humanitarian work supported my writing habit. Many thought taking out that $7,000 student loan to travel was a dumb plan, but in the end it led to a career that paid off that loan and most of my others. For four years, I worked in Antigua, Guatemala, as the program director for the charity Nuestros Ahijados. My 11th day volunteering at the project, the director quit and the executive director and founder somehow thought giving me, a 22-year-old, the position was a good idea. I administered 12 programs, fund-raised to meet the budgetary gaps that most NGOs suffered in 2008, and managed a staff of 50 employees and 500 annual volunteers. The project provided education and health resources for people to break out of poverty and had a program to rescue victims of human trafficking. It was a wonderful job where every day felt impactful, and I can’t imagine living life today without the many lessons I learned from that opportunity. In 2010, Christiane Amanpour came to Guatemala to interview me about a malnourished infant centered I had opened and ran for Nuestros Ahijados. Orphans in Kisii, Kenya, promise to study hard if they are given money to go to school. Q. Because you’ve worked with traveling women victimized by crimes in places like Central America, I imagine you would be the right guy explain the rules of the road to my daughter in a few years. What is your core advice to women traveling in distant lands? Aside from warning them to stay away from my friend Andres, I would say women travelers by the unique nature of the dangers they face are far ballsier than their male counterparts traveling the same road. Be smart ladies, and trust your instincts. No, be smarter than smart. Be a femme fatale traveling Jedi warrior woman who is always one step ahead of anyone that would harm you. You don’t need to actively distrust strangers—most people are good. But never trust anyone you’ve just met 100-percent. People who want to hurt you or take things from you use your trust as their camouflage.  Do your research. What does the guidebook say about safety? What do expats know? What do other travelers say? What do the locals know? What does your embassy say? All of these sources should be looked into, because each provides an important piece to the puzzle of how safe a place is and what you should do to avoid the dangers. If the streets aren’t safe at night, get yourself a reliable cabby who doesn’t drink on the job. If that doesn’t fit into your budget, give your pops Bruce a pouty face and remind him how much he loves you, and I bet he’ll grab your taxi bill. He would have just spent it on beer anyway. Speaking of beer, don’t leave your drink unattended, and don’t accept a drink that you did not watch the bartender make.  Mother and calf in Kenya’s Maasai Mara Reserve. Q. I would imagine that playing music live puts you on a fast track into cool, wild, or bizarre situations. Does it? I’m not sure if it’s my guitar or the crazy person playing it (see Luke perform here), but the short answer is yes. Playing the guitar is a great way to meet people and gain access to places. Most of the stories stemming from this fact are long. One short story that comes to mind is when my guitar led me to an underground gambling ring of chicken bus drivers in the lakeside village of San Pedro, Guatemala. My guitar and I were both drunk. The rest of my friends had gone to bed at a reasonable time. My late-night guitar playing by the lake led to a man named Juan approaching me and inviting me to this underground gambling ring he knew of on the outskirts of town. It looked like a tough crowd and a rough game. I made a point of losing $20 to keep them from pulling out the guns I could see bulging from their belts and just taking what they wanted. It could have gone even more loco, because one of them asked me if I would be his “frog”—the guy on the bus that collects the money and shouts out the destinations. He was drunk and about to drive to Xela, Guatemala. It was 5am. He said he could get me back by noon. This was a very tempting offer. I did not have a phone with me to inform my friends at the hotel why I would have failed to materialize in the morning, so I declined. I took a few more shots of the fire water the bus driver insisted I try and called it a night just as the dawn ticked up on the horizon. Q. What’s next for you? You say you’re committed to the path you’re on now, but what specifically is that path? It’s a winding one, and there are always surprises on it. I plan to continue to write and continually take that craft to a new level. I am finishing a non-fiction book about my four years living in Guatemala and courting various publishers for my completed novel How One Guitar Will Save The World. Humanitarian-wise, I am going to continue to fundraise and deploy that capital with charities that I have vetted as being sustainable and making tangible differences. My music has recently taken on a life of its own, and I have an LP coming out soon called “Luke Maguire Armstrong: Eaten By a Horse.” Oh, and we can’t forget women. I hope to run into some of them. Specifically, I hope to meet one as crazy as I am, who will let me buy a puppy to “nip at our heels.” ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Luke Maguire Armstrong is a frequent contributor to Perceptive Travel, an award-winning site with the best travel stories from wandering book authors. His current project, Travel Bloggers Without Borders, is an effort to raise $10,000 to take 55 children off the streets in Guatemala and place them in school.  Fire and ice: Sunset view of wash from Iceland’s Jökulsárlón Glacier. Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-04-04T19:33:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/keep-it-sweet http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/keep-it-sweet#When:16:15:00Z Bermuda is a quintessentially British island of palms. It was there in 1999 that an eccentric self-styled Bermudian traffic supervisor taught me something about crafting a singular life mission. Located far enough off the coast of North Carolina to forego NASCAR fanaticism but close enough to New York to attract weekend warriors, the breezy 21-mile fishhook island showcases pink sand beaches separated by limestone cliff-rimmed coves—and wealth. Churches and colorful stone and cedar architecture distinguish the rolling landscape, while convoys of white-collar tourist duos live out biker-couple fantasies, on mopeds. Bermuda is more than a refined, secure haven for wealthy folks hiding money from governments and living off the interest. When I visited, local celebs included a Guinness Book of World Records kite flyer, Ms. Universe 1976, and Johnny Barnes—a then 70ish, retired school bus driver who dedicated his life to transferring smiles to everyone transiting around the island’s busiest traffic roundabout. Every day from 5:00 to 10:00 a.m. Barnes performed by waving, smiling, gesturing, and preaching love to all passersby. The island dedicated a life-sized bronze statue in his honor just down the road from his roundabout. So, soon after passing the real Johnny Barnes you encounter the iron version: Johnny frozen in his traffic-greeting glory, bestowing an evangelical salute, smiling, with arms extended above his head. He apparently loves everything and doesn’t keep it a secret. When I asked him how to stay married forever, he replied with a grin of sin, “Keep puttin’ honey on it, to keep it sweet, or you’ll be in trouble.” Barnes has been blissfully married since 1951. Here, in the midst of semi-tropical nowhere, an island never visited by war or fast-food franchises, the oldest British colony remains a fresh-air paradise for visitors, insurance corporations, undeclared riches, heroic moped pilots in training, and one chipper, immortalized bus driver. Sweet. (Ps, Johnny is now 90—and still waving happiness to the world.) When the ego speaks, the truth winks—and then ducks for cover. Bermuda is a quintessentially British island of palms. It was there in 1999 that an eccentric self-styled Bermudian traffic supervisor taught me something about crafting a singular life mission. Located far enough off the coast of North Carolina to forego NASCAR fanaticism but close enough to New York to attract weekend warriors, the breezy 21-mile fishhook island showcases pink sand beaches separated by limestone cliff-rimmed coves—and wealth. Churches and colorful stone and cedar architecture distinguish the rolling landscape, while convoys of white-collar tourist duos live out biker-couple fantasies, on mopeds. Bermuda is more than a refined, secure haven for wealthy folks hiding money from governments and living off the interest. When I visited, local celebs included a Guinness Book of World Records kite flyer, Ms. Universe 1976, and Johnny Barnes—a then 70ish, retired school bus driver who dedicated his life to transferring smiles to everyone transiting around the island’s busiest traffic roundabout. Every day from 5:00 to 10:00 a.m. Barnes performed by waving, smiling, gesturing, and preaching love to all passersby. The island dedicated a life-sized bronze statue in his honor just down the road from his roundabout. So, soon after passing the real Johnny Barnes you encounter the iron version: Johnny frozen in his traffic-greeting glory, bestowing an evangelical salute, smiling, with arms extended above his head. He apparently loves everything and doesn’t keep it a secret. When I asked him how to stay married forever, he replied with a grin of sin, “Keep puttin’ honey on it, to keep it sweet, or you’ll be in trouble.” Barnes has been blissfully married since 1951. Here, in the midst of semi-tropical nowhere, an island never visited by war or fast-food franchises, the oldest British colony remains a fresh-air paradise for visitors, insurance corporations, undeclared riches, heroic moped pilots in training, and one chipper, immortalized bus driver. Sweet. (Ps, Johnny is now 90—and still waving happiness to the world.) When the ego speaks, the truth winks—and then ducks for cover. Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-02-28T16:15:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/southeast-asian-countries-collectively-cultivate-united-tourism-model http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/southeast-asian-countries-collectively-cultivate-united-tourism-model#When:12:00:00Z Southeast Asia’s 10 countries are bonding…like Borneo Hornbills The idea of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts is not lost on Southeast Asia. The Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) resonates the European Union’s regional solidarity for reciprocal benefits. Held in member nation Malaysia, the 33rd annual ASEAN Tourism Forum (ATF) will take place January 16-23. In developmental terms, Southeast Asia’s 10-country amalgam of incredibly diverse cultures poses several challenges, one of which is its diversity. ASEAN member states range from wealthy Singapore and Brunei to agrarian Laos and Cambodia. Politically, members include the democratic Philippines (largely Christian), Indonesia (world’s largest Muslim population), and, until recently, military-ruled Myanmar. Host country Malaysia has long understood the value of tourism. This year’s conference in Kuching (Borneo) is themed, Advancing Tourism Together. Multi-ethnic and multicultural Malaysia is one of 17 megadiverse countries on earth that harbor the majority of the Earth’s species, including 250 endemic reptiles. Borneo’s Mulu Caves ATF 2014 will stand on the shoulders of ATF 2013, which was hosted in Vientiane, Laos, and brought together 1,580 delegates, including 10 Tourism Ministers, travel industry buyers (470 from 60 countries), nearly 1,000 sellers (500 exhibition booths from 360 companies and properties), and media (145 from 35 countries) to focus on the significant developments and aspirations of this booming region. A mine for business and leisure traveler news and forecasts, speakers ranged from tourism experts to winners of the Green Recognition Awards, a supporter of rainforest tree-replanting programs. ASEAN Tourism Forum news… BRUNEI, the last Malay Kingdom, celebrates options to golf, play polo, dive, or kick back in a plush resort. This tiny country is a gateway to remarkable Borneo. CAMBODIA’s symbolic Kingdom of Wonder campaign remains an enduring symbol of Southeast Asia’s incredible history. Here, white gold equals rice while green gold equals tourism. It now partners with Thailand for a single visa option. INDONESIA’s claim that it offers the ultimate in diversity remains legitimate. Despite a few setbacks, tourism numbers continue growing. Wonderful Indonesia is succeeding at selling its brand beyond Bali. Simply beautiful LAOS continues promoting itself as the jewel of the Mekong with a sustained effort to support soft tourism and local immersion. Major infrastructure development will soon change the face of this hospitable country. tourismlaos.org. MALAYSIA welcomed 23 million visitors in 2009, a one million increase from 2008. That growth model continues to accelerate. The Malaysia Truly Asia campaign showcases the best of its mixed Malay, Chinese, and Indian heritage. MYANMAR, closed tight for decades, now has visa on arrival and is accepting foreign investment. Suddenly, every aspect of tourism is evolving, and it can be difficult to secure accommodations. Many of The PHILIPPINES’ 7,017 islands share some form of American-influenced musical, religious, and Hollywood traditions, hence its new tourism slogan: It’s More Fun in The Philippines. In 2013, the U.S. followed South Korea as its strongest arrivals market. SINGAPORE’S Formula One Racing Week, once featuring ZZ Top, will continue to headline international music acts. Hosting this race has been extended until 2017. The Your Singapore brand drives an efficient tourism machine. THAILAND is considering waiving its tourist visa fees, but not its exotic culture of service. The Amazing Thailand brand continues setting the example for tourism in Southeast Asia with growing golf and health/wellness sectors. VIETNAM’s French Imperial twist continues fanning its hidden charms. It continues trying to simplify its visa policy, which recently doubled in price. Russia is its fastest growing market. Sipadan, Malaysia Peter Semone, chief technical adviser for the Lao National Institute of Tourism and Hospitality (lanith.com), said, “The grouping of destinations under the ASEAN flag is a highly effective way of bringing together Southeast Asia’s unique tourism options. In the realm of human capacity development, ASEAN plays an important role in identifying common standards for education and training. Not only does this enable smaller countries such as Laos to benefit from its more developed neighbors, but it also affords greater workforce mobility, which in the coming years will be a challenge as markets become more integrated and liberalized through the ASEAN Economic Community.” Bernie Rosenbloom, a Southeast Asia tourism and hospitality communications consultant, was pleased that “Laos finally silenced critics who did not believe the country could successfully host an event of this size. It also served as a showcase for Vientiane’s fast-growing infrastructure, including more upscale accommodations, a new convention center, a rejuvenated tourist area, better roads, and expanding air links—all of which brighten the city’s light on the Asia Pacific’s MICE radar screen.”  Borneo orangutans advocating regional goodwill Exemplifying that spirit, ASEAN Ministers of Tourism continue developing a mutual recognition agreement aimed to improve the quality of human resources and giving workers in the tourism sectors of member countries a chance to work in different locations in the region. “This forum is always an ideal venue for tourism managers and policy makers to exchange issues of common interest,” explained Brad Olsen, a California-based author and travel expert. “ATF is more than just another trade show, because it goes to great lengths to infuse culture—including music, dancing, and fashion shows—into the daily events.” Conference delegates were also entertained each night by an array of cultural song and dance performances. ATF’s “Hand In Hand, Conquering Our Future” campaign also created a united tourism image. ASEAN’s concern for the environment continues to uplift its hotel industry standard in the form of the ASEAN Green Hotel Recognition Awards presented to ASEAN properties with outstanding efforts in environmental conservation. Criteria for these hotels includes environmental-friendliness and energy conservation measures based on 11 major criteria, including environmental policy and actions for hotel operations, solid waste management, energy efficiency, water efficiency, and air quality management. ASEAN cohesion emphasizes partnerships rather than competition. A single market free-trade agreement is another goal of the organization, which has existed for more than 40 years. But until December 2008, it had no written constitution. The new charter set a 2015 goal for establishing economic integration via a 10-country free-trade zone and established commitments respecting human rights, democratic principles, and keeping the region free of nuclear weapons. Binding the 10 members to an enhanced legal framework, the regional charter sets out their shared aims and methods of working together. Professor Bosengkham Vongdara, the Lao Minister of Information, Culture, and Tourism, said, “This was an exciting time for the Laotian tourism industry, and we were honored to host ATF 2013. Since we last hosted ATF nine years ago, Laos has grown in infrastructure and facilities. Through ATF, we did our best to contribute to strengthen and build an ASEAN community by 2015.” Press conferences led by tourism ministers from member countries created buzz about plans for a single or no-visa policy for the entire region, as this visa-free tourism strategy will create an ideal single destination. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ For details about ATF 2014 in Kuching, Malaysia, visit atf-malaysia.com. For travel ideas in Malaysia, try tourismmalaysiausa.com. The annual ATF rotates alphabetically through its 10 member-countries with a total of 570 million people—Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. Rock-climbing in Borneo Southeast Asia’s 10 countries are bonding…like Borneo Hornbills The idea of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts is not lost on Southeast Asia. The Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) resonates the European Union’s regional solidarity for reciprocal benefits. Held in member nation Malaysia, the 33rd annual ASEAN Tourism Forum (ATF) will take place January 16-23. In developmental terms, Southeast Asia’s 10-country amalgam of incredibly diverse cultures poses several challenges, one of which is its diversity. ASEAN member states range from wealthy Singapore and Brunei to agrarian Laos and Cambodia. Politically, members include the democratic Philippines (largely Christian), Indonesia (world’s largest Muslim population), and, until recently, military-ruled Myanmar. Host country Malaysia has long understood the value of tourism. This year’s conference in Kuching (Borneo) is themed, Advancing Tourism Together. Multi-ethnic and multicultural Malaysia is one of 17 megadiverse countries on earth that harbor the majority of the Earth’s species, including 250 endemic reptiles. Borneo’s Mulu Caves ATF 2014 will stand on the shoulders of ATF 2013, which was hosted in Vientiane, Laos, and brought together 1,580 delegates, including 10 Tourism Ministers, travel industry buyers (470 from 60 countries), nearly 1,000 sellers (500 exhibition booths from 360 companies and properties), and media (145 from 35 countries) to focus on the significant developments and aspirations of this booming region. A mine for business and leisure traveler news and forecasts, speakers ranged from tourism experts to winners of the Green Recognition Awards, a supporter of rainforest tree-replanting programs. ASEAN Tourism Forum news… BRUNEI, the last Malay Kingdom, celebrates options to golf, play polo, dive, or kick back in a plush resort. This tiny country is a gateway to remarkable Borneo. CAMBODIA’s symbolic Kingdom of Wonder campaign remains an enduring symbol of Southeast Asia’s incredible history. Here, white gold equals rice while green gold equals tourism. It now partners with Thailand for a single visa option. INDONESIA’s claim that it offers the ultimate in diversity remains legitimate. Despite a few setbacks, tourism numbers continue growing. Wonderful Indonesia is succeeding at selling its brand beyond Bali. Simply beautiful LAOS continues promoting itself as the jewel of the Mekong with a sustained effort to support soft tourism and local immersion. Major infrastructure development will soon change the face of this hospitable country. tourismlaos.org. MALAYSIA welcomed 23 million visitors in 2009, a one million increase from 2008. That growth model continues to accelerate. The Malaysia Truly Asia campaign showcases the best of its mixed Malay, Chinese, and Indian heritage. MYANMAR, closed tight for decades, now has visa on arrival and is accepting foreign investment. Suddenly, every aspect of tourism is evolving, and it can be difficult to secure accommodations. Many of The PHILIPPINES’ 7,017 islands share some form of American-influenced musical, religious, and Hollywood traditions, hence its new tourism slogan: It’s More Fun in The Philippines. In 2013, the U.S. followed South Korea as its strongest arrivals market. SINGAPORE’S Formula One Racing Week, once featuring ZZ Top, will continue to headline international music acts. Hosting this race has been extended until 2017. The Your Singapore brand drives an efficient tourism machine. THAILAND is considering waiving its tourist visa fees, but not its exotic culture of service. The Amazing Thailand brand continues setting the example for tourism in Southeast Asia with growing golf and health/wellness sectors. VIETNAM’s French Imperial twist continues fanning its hidden charms. It continues trying to simplify its visa policy, which recently doubled in price. Russia is its fastest growing market. Sipadan, Malaysia Peter Semone, chief technical adviser for the Lao National Institute of Tourism and Hospitality (lanith.com), said, “The grouping of destinations under the ASEAN flag is a highly effective way of bringing together Southeast Asia’s unique tourism options. In the realm of human capacity development, ASEAN plays an important role in identifying common standards for education and training. Not only does this enable smaller countries such as Laos to benefit from its more developed neighbors, but it also affords greater workforce mobility, which in the coming years will be a challenge as markets become more integrated and liberalized through the ASEAN Economic Community.” Bernie Rosenbloom, a Southeast Asia tourism and hospitality communications consultant, was pleased that “Laos finally silenced critics who did not believe the country could successfully host an event of this size. It also served as a showcase for Vientiane’s fast-growing infrastructure, including more upscale accommodations, a new convention center, a rejuvenated tourist area, better roads, and expanding air links—all of which brighten the city’s light on the Asia Pacific’s MICE radar screen.”  Borneo orangutans advocating regional goodwill Exemplifying that spirit, ASEAN Ministers of Tourism continue developing a mutual recognition agreement aimed to improve the quality of human resources and giving workers in the tourism sectors of member countries a chance to work in different locations in the region. “This forum is always an ideal venue for tourism managers and policy makers to exchange issues of common interest,” explained Brad Olsen, a California-based author and travel expert. “ATF is more than just another trade show, because it goes to great lengths to infuse culture—including music, dancing, and fashion shows—into the daily events.” Conference delegates were also entertained each night by an array of cultural song and dance performances. ATF’s “Hand In Hand, Conquering Our Future” campaign also created a united tourism image. ASEAN’s concern for the environment continues to uplift its hotel industry standard in the form of the ASEAN Green Hotel Recognition Awards presented to ASEAN properties with outstanding efforts in environmental conservation. Criteria for these hotels includes environmental-friendliness and energy conservation measures based on 11 major criteria, including environmental policy and actions for hotel operations, solid waste management, energy efficiency, water efficiency, and air quality management. ASEAN cohesion emphasizes partnerships rather than competition. A single market free-trade agreement is another goal of the organization, which has existed for more than 40 years. But until December 2008, it had no written constitution. The new charter set a 2015 goal for establishing economic integration via a 10-country free-trade zone and established commitments respecting human rights, democratic principles, and keeping the region free of nuclear weapons. Binding the 10 members to an enhanced legal framework, the regional charter sets out their shared aims and methods of working together. Professor Bosengkham Vongdara, the Lao Minister of Information, Culture, and Tourism, said, “This was an exciting time for the Laotian tourism industry, and we were honored to host ATF 2013. Since we last hosted ATF nine years ago, Laos has grown in infrastructure and facilities. Through ATF, we did our best to contribute to strengthen and build an ASEAN community by 2015.” Press conferences led by tourism ministers from member countries created buzz about plans for a single or no-visa policy for the entire region, as this visa-free tourism strategy will create an ideal single destination. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ For details about ATF 2014 in Kuching, Malaysia, visit atf-malaysia.com. For travel ideas in Malaysia, try tourismmalaysiausa.com. The annual ATF rotates alphabetically through its 10 member-countries with a total of 570 million people—Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. Rock-climbing in Borneo Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-01-15T12:00:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/baltimore-maryland http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/baltimore-maryland#When:15:54:00Z Baltimore’s Inner Harbor Baltimore is a legendary brick empire that redefines urban renewal. After sliding from a manufacturing stronghold into a depression of near irrelevance, the port cities’ grand factory landscape has been reinvented into an industrial-chic hotspot. Being from this storied metropolis means being somehow connected to the water—whether it be intrepid boating, prying open seafood, or wearing nautical-inspired clothing even in winter. Locals also don’t pronounce the ‘t’ in Baltimore. A relaxed gap between north and south, the hometown of Frank Zappa and John Waters has a history as remarkable as Boston’s, and a future that won’t quit. Downtown Baltimore’s U-shape frames a harbor that’s a showcase for colonial and modern architecture, likeable tourist attractions, including one of the most beloved aquariums in the world, and classic people watching. Water taxis ply these waters, quickly delivering passengers to various neighborhoods, all with their own trademark charm. Baltimore’s resurgence from a once grim industrial city into trendy factory ritziness reminds me of the similarly amazing metropolitan turnaround achieved in Manchester, England. Baltimore has also always been a great place to heal. Johns Hopkins is rated as one of the best hospitals in the world, and the University of Maryland’s Trauma Center isn’t far behind. Because of these cutting-edge institutions, a significant number of international patients, and their families, visit here long term and dig in for a cure. But illness is certainly not the only reason to schedule a visit. A few suggestions… American Visionary Art Museum *Baltimore’s American Visionary Art Museum is the official national museum for self-taught, intuitive artistry. Three renovated buildings that are themselves works of art showcase masterpieces created by artists—ranging from the homeless to neurosurgeons—who were never taught not what to do in the making of their art. Many spent decades of intense devotion to create just one work they saw as a fulfillment of a spiritual mission or personal devotion. If you crave a bit of the untamed and wild, visit avam.org. Wit & Wisdom *Wit & Wisdom, a harbor-side ultra-modern American tavern on the ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, has an open-air wood-fired kitchen and a hand-pulley operated grill designed by Thomas Jefferson. Its specialty is comfort food with a contemporary Eastern Seaboard twist. The upscale, roomy space—no two diners will ever bang elbows—has high ceilings and flawless service. The staff, including your waiter, gets a ‘cheat’ for each customer sharing their profile, preferences, and tendencies revealed during earlier visits. Even without a cheat-sheet, you won’t have to beg for refills of any of their hand-crafted cocktails. witandwisdombaltimore.com Baltimore’s Pazo Restaurant *Another impressively spacious dining spot is Pazo (Galician for ‘grand house’) in Harbor East. This renovated 19th-century iron-works factory has a 65-foot ceiling, its original hulking-wood crossbeams, and huge booths that resemble two posh high-back couches facing each other. This liberating environment—rustic but plush—was once open at one end to accept backed-in freight trains that hauled out bullets and other munitions. The candlelit-style wrought-iron chandeliers and wraparound balcony adds to the wide-open but warm atmosphere. And, oh yeah, prepare for the most indulgent Euro-Mediterranean food and wine in town. pazorestaurant.com *Aldo’s in Little Italy is fine dining without the pomp or attitude. Calm, professional servers ply an old-school parlor setting. Chef Aldo Vitale, originally a cabinet maker, spun his handiness into building the lavishly appointed dining rooms—and crafts classic southern Italian dishes. This sets the bar for Maryland’s Italian cuisine. aldositaly.com   *Baltimore’s Four Season Hotel’s (fourseasons.com/Baltimore) international ambiance is partially kindled by relatives of patients being treated at Johns Hopkins; seems Arab royalty puts this hospital high on its list. There are also guests from every corner of the world mixing with rooted East Coasters. The swankest digs in town, every detail—from the harbor view from your bed to a beguiling staff-to-guest ratio—make luxury seem natural. The hotel also has an incredible spa, whose world-class masseuses leave you wet-noodle limp. The Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore houses the largest hotel art collection in the city. Check it out here here *Baltimore Soundstage (baltimoresoundstage.com) is a classic mid-sized downtown music venue attracting nationally touring acts; another example of a defunct factory that now rocks, literally. Right next door, PowerPlant Live! also rocks live entertainment at five bars, Rams Head Live!, and a summertime outdoor concert series. PowerPlant Live! *I usually avoid what can be deemed as tourist traps, but was presently surprised at Baltimore’s harbor-side Ripley’s Believe It or Not! I now appreciate founder Robert Ripley (1890-1949) as a world-traveling pioneer (201 countries) and ‘amateur’ anthropologist. A groundbreaking travel writer on a par with Mark Twain, his museums celebrate (way) out of the ordinary oddities, trivia, unsung heroes, and touchable interactive displays—a tribute to his dedication to collecting mind-bending news and show-and-tells from every edge of the globe. ripleys.com/baltimore ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ *For more information, visit baltimore.org. *Amtrak lands near the heart of downtown Baltimore, which is easily accessible along the northeast corridor. Once there, your feet, or inexpensive ferries (or the free Charm City Circulator) can take you pretty much everywhere. Take advantage of a special 30-percent off companion fare discount from Amtrak to save on traveling here. baltimore.org/amtrak Baltimore at night Ps, National Bohemian Beer, colloquially “Natty Boh,” was first brewed in Baltimore in 1885. This Bohemian-style beer’s slogan has long been “From the Land of Pleasant Living,” a tribute to the Chesapeake Bay. Ninety percent of National Bohemian sales are still in Baltimore, where it’s not uncommon to find cans served in many bars for $2. National’s president once also owned the Baltimore Orioles, making Natty Boh the “official” brew served at the ballpark in the 1960s—similar to Schaefer Beer proudly sponsoring the New York Mets in the 1970s. Baltimore’s Inner Harbor Baltimore is a legendary brick empire that redefines urban renewal. After sliding from a manufacturing stronghold into a depression of near irrelevance, the port cities’ grand factory landscape has been reinvented into an industrial-chic hotspot. Being from this storied metropolis means being somehow connected to the water—whether it be intrepid boating, prying open seafood, or wearing nautical-inspired clothing even in winter. Locals also don’t pronounce the ‘t’ in Baltimore. A relaxed gap between north and south, the hometown of Frank Zappa and John Waters has a history as remarkable as Boston’s, and a future that won’t quit. Downtown Baltimore’s U-shape frames a harbor that’s a showcase for colonial and modern architecture, likeable tourist attractions, including one of the most beloved aquariums in the world, and classic people watching. Water taxis ply these waters, quickly delivering passengers to various neighborhoods, all with their own trademark charm. Baltimore’s resurgence from a once grim industrial city into trendy factory ritziness reminds me of the similarly amazing metropolitan turnaround achieved in Manchester, England. Baltimore has also always been a great place to heal. Johns Hopkins is rated as one of the best hospitals in the world, and the University of Maryland’s Trauma Center isn’t far behind. Because of these cutting-edge institutions, a significant number of international patients, and their families, visit here long term and dig in for a cure. But illness is certainly not the only reason to schedule a visit. A few suggestions… American Visionary Art Museum *Baltimore’s American Visionary Art Museum is the official national museum for self-taught, intuitive artistry. Three renovated buildings that are themselves works of art showcase masterpieces created by artists—ranging from the homeless to neurosurgeons—who were never taught not what to do in the making of their art. Many spent decades of intense devotion to create just one work they saw as a fulfillment of a spiritual mission or personal devotion. If you crave a bit of the untamed and wild, visit avam.org. Wit & Wisdom *Wit & Wisdom, a harbor-side ultra-modern American tavern on the ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, has an open-air wood-fired kitchen and a hand-pulley operated grill designed by Thomas Jefferson. Its specialty is comfort food with a contemporary Eastern Seaboard twist. The upscale, roomy space—no two diners will ever bang elbows—has high ceilings and flawless service. The staff, including your waiter, gets a ‘cheat’ for each customer sharing their profile, preferences, and tendencies revealed during earlier visits. Even without a cheat-sheet, you won’t have to beg for refills of any of their hand-crafted cocktails. witandwisdombaltimore.com Baltimore’s Pazo Restaurant *Another impressively spacious dining spot is Pazo (Galician for ‘grand house’) in Harbor East. This renovated 19th-century iron-works factory has a 65-foot ceiling, its original hulking-wood crossbeams, and huge booths that resemble two posh high-back couches facing each other. This liberating environment—rustic but plush—was once open at one end to accept backed-in freight trains that hauled out bullets and other munitions. The candlelit-style wrought-iron chandeliers and wraparound balcony adds to the wide-open but warm atmosphere. And, oh yeah, prepare for the most indulgent Euro-Mediterranean food and wine in town. pazorestaurant.com *Aldo’s in Little Italy is fine dining without the pomp or attitude. Calm, professional servers ply an old-school parlor setting. Chef Aldo Vitale, originally a cabinet maker, spun his handiness into building the lavishly appointed dining rooms—and crafts classic southern Italian dishes. This sets the bar for Maryland’s Italian cuisine. aldositaly.com   *Baltimore’s Four Season Hotel’s (fourseasons.com/Baltimore) international ambiance is partially kindled by relatives of patients being treated at Johns Hopkins; seems Arab royalty puts this hospital high on its list. There are also guests from every corner of the world mixing with rooted East Coasters. The swankest digs in town, every detail—from the harbor view from your bed to a beguiling staff-to-guest ratio—make luxury seem natural. The hotel also has an incredible spa, whose world-class masseuses leave you wet-noodle limp. The Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore houses the largest hotel art collection in the city. Check it out here here *Baltimore Soundstage (baltimoresoundstage.com) is a classic mid-sized downtown music venue attracting nationally touring acts; another example of a defunct factory that now rocks, literally. Right next door, PowerPlant Live! also rocks live entertainment at five bars, Rams Head Live!, and a summertime outdoor concert series. PowerPlant Live! *I usually avoid what can be deemed as tourist traps, but was presently surprised at Baltimore’s harbor-side Ripley’s Believe It or Not! I now appreciate founder Robert Ripley (1890-1949) as a world-traveling pioneer (201 countries) and ‘amateur’ anthropologist. A groundbreaking travel writer on a par with Mark Twain, his museums celebrate (way) out of the ordinary oddities, trivia, unsung heroes, and touchable interactive displays—a tribute to his dedication to collecting mind-bending news and show-and-tells from every edge of the globe. ripleys.com/baltimore ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ *For more information, visit baltimore.org. *Amtrak lands near the heart of downtown Baltimore, which is easily accessible along the northeast corridor. Once there, your feet, or inexpensive ferries (or the free Charm City Circulator) can take you pretty much everywhere. Take advantage of a special 30-percent off companion fare discount from Amtrak to save on traveling here. baltimore.org/amtrak Baltimore at night Ps, National Bohemian Beer, colloquially “Natty Boh,” was first brewed in Baltimore in 1885. This Bohemian-style beer’s slogan has long been “From the Land of Pleasant Living,” a tribute to the Chesapeake Bay. Ninety percent of National Bohemian sales are still in Baltimore, where it’s not uncommon to find cans served in many bars for $2. National’s president once also owned the Baltimore Orioles, making Natty Boh the “official” brew served at the ballpark in the 1960s—similar to Schaefer Beer proudly sponsoring the New York Mets in the 1970s. Globetrotter Dogma, 2014-01-09T15:54:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-worlds-most-determined-vigilante http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-worlds-most-determined-vigilante#When:16:35:00Z Robert Young Pelton plying the gap between right and wrong Robert Young Pelton is the kind of guy you want around when the sh*t hits the fan—wherever that may be. I first met him when we served as contributors to the adventure travel magazine Blue, which launched in 1997. I’ve built a career as a storyteller but gladly zip it when a master like Pelton lets it rip. The feathers in his cap include finding “American Taliban” member John Walker Lindh in Afghanistan in November 2001, and his continuously updated bestselling book The World’s Most Dangerous Places. However, they only hint at this unflappable Canadian-born Californian’s lifelong mission to report about, stare down and battle the world’s evil…on the ground and face to face. An author of seven books, as well as an extreme journalist, documentary filmmaker, show host, and raconteur, Pelton focuses on reporting conflict and interviewing military, insurgent, and political figures in war zones. His career and reputation are built on a history of entering forbidden, deadly, and otherwise no-go environments—and stirring the pot. There is no denying that Pelton is also one of the ballsiest of travel writers, sharing practical and survival information for people who work and travel in high-risk zones. He’s no stranger to humor, either. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Q. What do hot places, while figuratively on fire, like Afghanistan, Chechnya, Liberia, Mogadishu, Iraq, and Uganda (where Pelton survived an assassination attempt) have in common? A. They are usually unrecovered from a previous political cataclysm that might have occurred a decade or more earlier. Many of these places are so fragile that less than a dozen armed men can plunge the region into chaos. Q. What five things should any traveler never forget to pack? A. A passport, money, comfortable pants, Mr DP stickers and hot sauce—makes lousy food palatable, even the worst refugee camp food and MREs (Meals Ready to Eat). Q. What made you want to track down African fugitive Joseph Kony, and what do you think your chances are of finding him? A. I have spent twenty years tracking down rebel leaders, wanted men, Jihadis and other people who didn’t want to be found. My chances are good simply because my singular goal is to locate Kony. Many of the other large programs have tangential goals and limited resources. Q. Where is the most beautiful war or conflict zone you’ve visited? A. Bougainville. A small island north of the Solomons where there is a smoking volcano, white beaches and beautiful people. I remember sitting on the top of the mountain, helping the late rebel leader Francis Ona try to write the national anthem. It was hard to find anything that rhymed with “Mekamui” or the holy land as they called their island. Bougainville is now open for tourists, by the way. Q. In the heavens and hells on our globe, is there a human trait that remains constant? A. People are curious. Ultimately they want affirmation. And they have held their fire when they see a 6’ 4” white man bound across their front lines. Pelton at a hospital in Bagram, Afghanistan Q. Can you recommend three destinations—once no-go zones—to visit that are now safe for ordinary travelers? A. The country of Georgia has the creative and architectural aura of 1920s Paris with spectacular mountains and international intrigue thrown in. Sierra Leone in West Africa has amazing jungles in the north…and even Somaliland. Afghanistan (Bamiyan Valley) and Iraq (Kurdistan) have beautiful and safe places to explore.  Q. In order to gain access, you’ve spent an unusual amount of time living with, traveling with and documenting some of the world’s best known rebel, Jihadi, and insurgent groups in dozens of countries. From a traveling perspective, which group was the most and least entertaining? A. The most interesting were the Chechen rebels during the 1999 war. Mostly for their bravery and unusual fighting tactics. My least favorite were the FARC rebels in Colombia who seemed to view Marxism as a way to get rich—and have sexy female bodyguards. Q. When you were kidnapped in Colombia’s Darien Gap by AUC death squads, was your first thought: Fight, flight, or, my daughters are going to kill me? A. My first thought was to ensure the safety of the two people who were with me. The second was that my wife is going to be pissed. Q. I enjoyed your Men’s Journal article, “How to Stage a Coup”: You’ve met, interviewed, fought or worked with many intriguing and polarizing world figures, such as Steve Jobs, pirates, mercenaries, prisoners and high-profile killers and fugitives. What makes famous and infamous people tick? A. Famous people are driven by a need to prove something. It’s probably something buried in their youth. Steve Jobs was an adopted kid who had to prove authority figures wrong. A very angry, unhappy man until he realized that he was one of those authority figures. Rebels are very similar on the intellectual level. I can’t tell you how many tedious, pretentious conversations I have had about revolution, Jihad, and Marxism in jungles with the overeducated and angry sons of affluent people. Whether it’s John Walker Lindh or Erik Prince, they view themselves as being above the rules of survival. It’s the same narcissist profile that the CIA and al Qaeda seeks out. Q. What is DPx Gear? A. I have had many people ask why I don’t make “survival gear,” so finally in 2008, I designed a survival knife called the “Hostile Environment Survival Tool” and we have never looked back. I used to be a product designer and marketing specialist, so I suppose it was inevitable. The key is: I develop our products in combat zones and design for a very narrow group of special operations, expedition, and hard use professionals.  Q. What’s next, and why? A. Well, finding Kony is going to suck up some of my time, including a book and a film on the project. General Dostum has asked for help in getting elected in Afghanistan, and I have a new graphic novel out called Roll Hard about a month I spent in Iraq with an ill-fated Blackwater crew. I just launched a new knife design called the DPx HEAT, and I have my first fictional book called Raven (about a boy who gets lost in the Pacific Northwest and learns to survive). …And, I’m rewriting The World’s Most Dangerous Places. So, never a dull moment. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ *For more on Robert Young Pelton, visit comebackalive.com, adventuristmedia.com, and dpxgear.com. *Pelton’s comment on the title of this story: I don’t know that I am a vigilante since I am working within legal framework on the hunt for Kony. ‘Roll Hard’ is a 64 graphic novel about an ill-fated group of security contractors in Iraq Robert Young Pelton plying the gap between right and wrong Robert Young Pelton is the kind of guy you want around when the sh*t hits the fan—wherever that may be. I first met him when we served as contributors to the adventure travel magazine Blue, which launched in 1997. I’ve built a career as a storyteller but gladly zip it when a master like Pelton lets it rip. The feathers in his cap include finding “American Taliban” member John Walker Lindh in Afghanistan in November 2001, and his continuously updated bestselling book The World’s Most Dangerous Places. However, they only hint at this unflappable Canadian-born Californian’s lifelong mission to report about, stare down and battle the world’s evil…on the ground and face to face. An author of seven books, as well as an extreme journalist, documentary filmmaker, show host, and raconteur, Pelton focuses on reporting conflict and interviewing military, insurgent, and political figures in war zones. His career and reputation are built on a history of entering forbidden, deadly, and otherwise no-go environments—and stirring the pot. There is no denying that Pelton is also one of the ballsiest of travel writers, sharing practical and survival information for people who work and travel in high-risk zones. He’s no stranger to humor, either. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Q. What do hot places, while figuratively on fire, like Afghanistan, Chechnya, Liberia, Mogadishu, Iraq, and Uganda (where Pelton survived an assassination attempt) have in common? A. They are usually unrecovered from a previous political cataclysm that might have occurred a decade or more earlier. Many of these places are so fragile that less than a dozen armed men can plunge the region into chaos. Q. What five things should any traveler never forget to pack? A. A passport, money, comfortable pants, Mr DP stickers and hot sauce—makes lousy food palatable, even the worst refugee camp food and MREs (Meals Ready to Eat). Q. What made you want to track down African fugitive Joseph Kony, and what do you think your chances are of finding him? A. I have spent twenty years tracking down rebel leaders, wanted men, Jihadis and other people who didn’t want to be found. My chances are good simply because my singular goal is to locate Kony. Many of the other large programs have tangential goals and limited resources. Q. Where is the most beautiful war or conflict zone you’ve visited? A. Bougainville. A small island north of the Solomons where there is a smoking volcano, white beaches and beautiful people. I remember sitting on the top of the mountain, helping the late rebel leader Francis Ona try to write the national anthem. It was hard to find anything that rhymed with “Mekamui” or the holy land as they called their island. Bougainville is now open for tourists, by the way. Q. In the heavens and hells on our globe, is there a human trait that remains constant? A. People are curious. Ultimately they want affirmation. And they have held their fire when they see a 6’ 4” white man bound across their front lines. Pelton at a hospital in Bagram, Afghanistan Q. Can you recommend three destinations—once no-go zones—to visit that are now safe for ordinary travelers? A. The country of Georgia has the creative and architectural aura of 1920s Paris with spectacular mountains and international intrigue thrown in. Sierra Leone in West Africa has amazing jungles in the north…and even Somaliland. Afghanistan (Bamiyan Valley) and Iraq (Kurdistan) have beautiful and safe places to explore.  Q. In order to gain access, you’ve spent an unusual amount of time living with, traveling with and documenting some of the world’s best known rebel, Jihadi, and insurgent groups in dozens of countries. From a traveling perspective, which group was the most and least entertaining? A. The most interesting were the Chechen rebels during the 1999 war. Mostly for their bravery and unusual fighting tactics. My least favorite were the FARC rebels in Colombia who seemed to view Marxism as a way to get rich—and have sexy female bodyguards. Q. When you were kidnapped in Colombia’s Darien Gap by AUC death squads, was your first thought: Fight, flight, or, my daughters are going to kill me? A. My first thought was to ensure the safety of the two people who were with me. The second was that my wife is going to be pissed. Q. I enjoyed your Men’s Journal article, “How to Stage a Coup”: You’ve met, interviewed, fought or worked with many intriguing and polarizing world figures, such as Steve Jobs, pirates, mercenaries, prisoners and high-profile killers and fugitives. What makes famous and infamous people tick? A. Famous people are driven by a need to prove something. It’s probably something buried in their youth. Steve Jobs was an adopted kid who had to prove authority figures wrong. A very angry, unhappy man until he realized that he was one of those authority figures. Rebels are very similar on the intellectual level. I can’t tell you how many tedious, pretentious conversations I have had about revolution, Jihad, and Marxism in jungles with the overeducated and angry sons of affluent people. Whether it’s John Walker Lindh or Erik Prince, they view themselves as being above the rules of survival. It’s the same narcissist profile that the CIA and al Qaeda seeks out. Q. What is DPx Gear? A. I have had many people ask why I don’t make “survival gear,” so finally in 2008, I designed a survival knife called the “Hostile Environment Survival Tool” and we have never looked back. I used to be a product designer and marketing specialist, so I suppose it was inevitable. The key is: I develop our products in combat zones and design for a very narrow group of special operations, expedition, and hard use professionals.  Q. What’s next, and why? A. Well, finding Kony is going to suck up some of my time, including a book and a film on the project. General Dostum has asked for help in getting elected in Afghanistan, and I have a new graphic novel out called Roll Hard about a month I spent in Iraq with an ill-fated Blackwater crew. I just launched a new knife design called the DPx HEAT, and I have my first fictional book called Raven (about a boy who gets lost in the Pacific Northwest and learns to survive). …And, I’m rewriting The World’s Most Dangerous Places. So, never a dull moment. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ *For more on Robert Young Pelton, visit comebackalive.com, adventuristmedia.com, and dpxgear.com. *Pelton’s comment on the title of this story: I don’t know that I am a vigilante since I am working within legal framework on the hunt for Kony. ‘Roll Hard’ is a 64 graphic novel about an ill-fated group of security contractors in Iraq Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-12-04T16:35:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/wisconsins-bridge-to-original-rock http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/wisconsins-bridge-to-original-rock#When:18:49:00Z Door County’s Steel Bridge Songfest I’m sitting on a main street barstool enjoying the regional counterculture, wedged between a long-haired musician, an organic farmer, and a baseball cap-wearing Korean War veteran. “What brings you here?” the elder vet asks. “I’m here to save the old draw-bridge,” I answer. “This is still a working waterfront, sir,” the vet notes, adding, “We all do our part.” Obviously the joint’s Sturgeon General, he went back to his beer and I heard the sound of rock and roll that was thumping across town. Strolling toward Door County’s Steel Bridge Songfest, a crusade against callous demolition, the local organic farmer caught up with me and testified, “All food is organic until otherwise tainted—so when it remains organic that shouldn’t be big news. Inorganic foods should simply be labeled as Not Organic.” Pure Wisconsin, here I come. Wisconsin’s Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin’s geographic left-thumb is a peninsula in Lake Michigan called Door County. This pastoral vacationland—so close but so far from Milwaukee—is home to 11 historic lighthouses, the state’s trending edge for leisure, fine dining and scenery options, Green Bay Packer lore, a music festival that’s hell-bent on saving a big old bridge…and people who are actually curious when they ask, “How are you today?” ‘Downtown’ Sturgeon Bay Door County’s hub, Sturgeon Bay, has a long history of boatbuilding, including being an unrivaled shipbuilding powerhouse during WWII. Named by freshwater boaters who called one if its narrow channels “death’s door,” the region still boasts two active shipyards, but is also a haven for cuisine, swank accommodation, water sports, and a taking a break from the rat race. The namesake bottom-feeding sturgeon fish may have been scared away by the building of a transit canal, but Wisconsin’s caring tastemakers are holding steady. Sturgeon Bay’s peaceful main street purrs archetypal Americana, with iconic bargain items peddled by storytellers and brews wrought by wisecrackers. Sturgeon Bay’s Michigan Street Bridge The sensibility of moving forward by honoring the way things used to be done started here in 2005, thanks to assistance from the National Trust For Historic Preservation and funds raised through the Songfest. As a result, Sturgeon Bay’s Michigan Street Bridge has been protected as a national treasure, listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Her 82nd birthday was celebrated in the summer of 2013. The bridge got a long awaited rehab, including an all-new coat of paint in 2011. Since the bridge is now officially “saved,” the Songfest maintains the enduring mission to honor it as a symbol of preservation and creativity thriving together—literally. Not only is the bridge a community builder drawing greater beauty and vitality to its surroundings, it’s also a time to dance in the streets. The Songfest’s main stage, charmingly, is perched above the parking lot of an early 1950s retro hotel—one that has as many as three recording studios. The bands performing at the Holiday Music Motel (holidaymusicmotel.com) are a musical spin-the-bottle ranging from death metal to Navajo-inspired drum-and-bass to boy bands to North Florida Swamp Blues. It gets better. A frequent festival headliner is Jackson Brown. All this in a small town? Holiday Music Motel’s balcony rocking To keep the party moving along, interim bands also perform from a balcony on the second floor of the motel. This four-day outdoor and indoor fest, where several bars and other venues thrive as music venues, seems like an unlikely music destination…but it makes festival-going easy. When the sun sets, bars in town feature motivated bands that rock into the night. A canon of this festival is that you’ll hear only all original music. What started as a grassroots group called “the SOBs” (Save Our Bridge) 14 years ago, organized to save the historic bridge from a scheduled wrecking ball and later became Citizens for Our Bridge (CFOB), a non-profit to build public appreciation for the historic structure. The week-long celebration is now held every June in and around The Holiday Music Motel. Hundreds of songwriters and musicians from around the world, including Jackson Browne, Jane Wiedlin (Go-Go’s), local hero pat mAcdonald (Songfest creator, author of “The Future’s So Bright, I’ve Gotta Wear Shades”) and others have come to this community, written their songs, and donated their efforts. A seven-disc collection of original songs (Steel Bridge Songs, Vols.1-9) serves double-duty as a testament and a celebration. Jackson Browne rocks the 2013 Steel Bridge Songfest For anyone tuned into the 1970s, you couldn’t help enjoying Jackson Browne’s musical soul taking over FM rock from coast-to-coast. Closing the festival, Browne fused his patient storytelling with a few of his telling hits to rouse the crowd, and assure us all that cozy Sturgeon Bay’s legacy of nurturing original music is moving forward, one song at a time. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ *The 2014 Steel Bridge Song Fest is June 12-15, 2014. For performance schedules and other arts-oriented information visit sbsf5.com. *For more information on “exploring the door” visit doorcounty.com. *steelbridgeradio.com is a locally based internet radio station broadcasting original, collaboratively written music, live concerts, and exclusive interviews with artists, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The content of this innovative creation focuses on the collective music written and recorded during songwriting retreats and festivals held at the Holiday Music Motel in Sturgeon Bay. Steel Bridge Radio not only plays the music from the compilation CD’s from the previous nine years of recordings, but also delves deep into the hundreds of archived tracks that have, until now, remained silent. Ps, this is Miller High Life country: “Miller is made from corn; Bud is made from rice.” —more factoids from tavern-chatting baseball cap-wearing war vet. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Door County Suggestions: Dine at Parador!, a renovated lumber baron’s house, built in 1877 in Egg Harbor, serving tapas, sangria, and fine Spanish wines. paradorwisconsin.com The Inn at Cedar Crossing is a crafted-from-scratch restaurant and nine-room B&B. The 1884 building has been a drug store, tailor shop, soda fountain paired with a shoe store, clothing store, and dentist’s office. Today, discerning tourists chat about its presence on facebook. innatcedarcrossing.com The Door County Coffee & Tea Company doubles as a restaurant in a country store atmosphere. doorcountycoffee.com Stay at the sprawling Landmark Resort, located atop a bluff with panoramic water views, thelandmarkresort.com Visit the Door County Maritime Museum, which also has an active boatbuilding shop, where these guys are not posers on display, dcmm.org Door County Maritime Museum Ps, You’ll likely fly in and out of Green Bay. During a private stadium tour, I was baptized by the Lambeau Field sprinklers—hailed as an American rite-of-passage. This American church, a really big one, is a haloed stadium that’s been sold out since the 1960’s. This tallest structure in Green Bay has the highest grossing pro-shop in pro sports and is the only professional sports franchise that has stockholders. Out for a stroll nearby, I saw the sun set behind the radiant stadium. Back-lit and illuminated at dusk, I felt the awe surrounding the shrine here in Packer-Land, and took another slice of Wisconsin with me to savor back in New York City, where a speeding cab would soon challenge me to cross an intersection. Visit greenbay.com. One more reason to visit Door County, Wisconsin Door County’s Steel Bridge Songfest I’m sitting on a main street barstool enjoying the regional counterculture, wedged between a long-haired musician, an organic farmer, and a baseball cap-wearing Korean War veteran. “What brings you here?” the elder vet asks. “I’m here to save the old draw-bridge,” I answer. “This is still a working waterfront, sir,” the vet notes, adding, “We all do our part.” Obviously the joint’s Sturgeon General, he went back to his beer and I heard the sound of rock and roll that was thumping across town. Strolling toward Door County’s Steel Bridge Songfest, a crusade against callous demolition, the local organic farmer caught up with me and testified, “All food is organic until otherwise tainted—so when it remains organic that shouldn’t be big news. Inorganic foods should simply be labeled as Not Organic.” Pure Wisconsin, here I come. Wisconsin’s Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin’s geographic left-thumb is a peninsula in Lake Michigan called Door County. This pastoral vacationland—so close but so far from Milwaukee—is home to 11 historic lighthouses, the state’s trending edge for leisure, fine dining and scenery options, Green Bay Packer lore, a music festival that’s hell-bent on saving a big old bridge…and people who are actually curious when they ask, “How are you today?” ‘Downtown’ Sturgeon Bay Door County’s hub, Sturgeon Bay, has a long history of boatbuilding, including being an unrivaled shipbuilding powerhouse during WWII. Named by freshwater boaters who called one if its narrow channels “death’s door,” the region still boasts two active shipyards, but is also a haven for cuisine, swank accommodation, water sports, and a taking a break from the rat race. The namesake bottom-feeding sturgeon fish may have been scared away by the building of a transit canal, but Wisconsin’s caring tastemakers are holding steady. Sturgeon Bay’s peaceful main street purrs archetypal Americana, with iconic bargain items peddled by storytellers and brews wrought by wisecrackers. Sturgeon Bay’s Michigan Street Bridge The sensibility of moving forward by honoring the way things used to be done started here in 2005, thanks to assistance from the National Trust For Historic Preservation and funds raised through the Songfest. As a result, Sturgeon Bay’s Michigan Street Bridge has been protected as a national treasure, listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Her 82nd birthday was celebrated in the summer of 2013. The bridge got a long awaited rehab, including an all-new coat of paint in 2011. Since the bridge is now officially “saved,” the Songfest maintains the enduring mission to honor it as a symbol of preservation and creativity thriving together—literally. Not only is the bridge a community builder drawing greater beauty and vitality to its surroundings, it’s also a time to dance in the streets. The Songfest’s main stage, charmingly, is perched above the parking lot of an early 1950s retro hotel—one that has as many as three recording studios. The bands performing at the Holiday Music Motel (holidaymusicmotel.com) are a musical spin-the-bottle ranging from death metal to Navajo-inspired drum-and-bass to boy bands to North Florida Swamp Blues. It gets better. A frequent festival headliner is Jackson Brown. All this in a small town? Holiday Music Motel’s balcony rocking To keep the party moving along, interim bands also perform from a balcony on the second floor of the motel. This four-day outdoor and indoor fest, where several bars and other venues thrive as music venues, seems like an unlikely music destination…but it makes festival-going easy. When the sun sets, bars in town feature motivated bands that rock into the night. A canon of this festival is that you’ll hear only all original music. What started as a grassroots group called “the SOBs” (Save Our Bridge) 14 years ago, organized to save the historic bridge from a scheduled wrecking ball and later became Citizens for Our Bridge (CFOB), a non-profit to build public appreciation for the historic structure. The week-long celebration is now held every June in and around The Holiday Music Motel. Hundreds of songwriters and musicians from around the world, including Jackson Browne, Jane Wiedlin (Go-Go’s), local hero pat mAcdonald (Songfest creator, author of “The Future’s So Bright, I’ve Gotta Wear Shades”) and others have come to this community, written their songs, and donated their efforts. A seven-disc collection of original songs (Steel Bridge Songs, Vols.1-9) serves double-duty as a testament and a celebration. Jackson Browne rocks the 2013 Steel Bridge Songfest For anyone tuned into the 1970s, you couldn’t help enjoying Jackson Browne’s musical soul taking over FM rock from coast-to-coast. Closing the festival, Browne fused his patient storytelling with a few of his telling hits to rouse the crowd, and assure us all that cozy Sturgeon Bay’s legacy of nurturing original music is moving forward, one song at a time. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ *The 2014 Steel Bridge Song Fest is June 12-15, 2014. For performance schedules and other arts-oriented information visit sbsf5.com. *For more information on “exploring the door” visit doorcounty.com. *steelbridgeradio.com is a locally based internet radio station broadcasting original, collaboratively written music, live concerts, and exclusive interviews with artists, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The content of this innovative creation focuses on the collective music written and recorded during songwriting retreats and festivals held at the Holiday Music Motel in Sturgeon Bay. Steel Bridge Radio not only plays the music from the compilation CD’s from the previous nine years of recordings, but also delves deep into the hundreds of archived tracks that have, until now, remained silent. Ps, this is Miller High Life country: “Miller is made from corn; Bud is made from rice.” —more factoids from tavern-chatting baseball cap-wearing war vet. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Door County Suggestions: Dine at Parador!, a renovated lumber baron’s house, built in 1877 in Egg Harbor, serving tapas, sangria, and fine Spanish wines. paradorwisconsin.com The Inn at Cedar Crossing is a crafted-from-scratch restaurant and nine-room B&B. The 1884 building has been a drug store, tailor shop, soda fountain paired with a shoe store, clothing store, and dentist’s office. Today, discerning tourists chat about its presence on facebook. innatcedarcrossing.com The Door County Coffee & Tea Company doubles as a restaurant in a country store atmosphere. doorcountycoffee.com Stay at the sprawling Landmark Resort, located atop a bluff with panoramic water views, thelandmarkresort.com Visit the Door County Maritime Museum, which also has an active boatbuilding shop, where these guys are not posers on display, dcmm.org Door County Maritime Museum Ps, You’ll likely fly in and out of Green Bay. During a private stadium tour, I was baptized by the Lambeau Field sprinklers—hailed as an American rite-of-passage. This American church, a really big one, is a haloed stadium that’s been sold out since the 1960’s. This tallest structure in Green Bay has the highest grossing pro-shop in pro sports and is the only professional sports franchise that has stockholders. Out for a stroll nearby, I saw the sun set behind the radiant stadium. Back-lit and illuminated at dusk, I felt the awe surrounding the shrine here in Packer-Land, and took another slice of Wisconsin with me to savor back in New York City, where a speeding cab would soon challenge me to cross an intersection. Visit greenbay.com. One more reason to visit Door County, Wisconsin Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-11-25T18:49:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/estonia http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/estonia#When:11:39:00Z Estonian family about to break into song Estonia lacks military might and has always been surrounded by much larger countries with intimidating armies. Russia, Germany, and Sweden all vied for its control, creating a tug of war that lasted centuries. Inspired by the fall of the Iron Curtain, Estonia symbolically overcame its latest suppressor, the U.S.S.R., when country-wide choir jam-bands launched their Singing Revolution. Here, choirs outrank sports as a national pastime—some attracting as many as 30,000 singers. Song festival fairgrounds, with their signature bandshell arches, are everywhere. Estonian beauty After 50 years of Soviet repression, in August, 1989, two million Baltic citizens, including people from neighboring Latvia and Lithuania, created an unbroken 350-mile human chain linking the countries in their call for freedom. The likeminded people held hands, and changed their destiny. Estonia, where medieval meets modern, sang themselves free. Their keynote battle-charge song, “My Fatherland is My Love,” has since become their unofficial national anthem. Another Estonian beauty (sort of) While in Estonia, I asked several street-strolling locals to sing for me, and true to form, they obliged. One woman sang the entire unofficial anthem as we stood on an empty street. The Baltic Singing Revolution made me wonder, what would the U.S. choose if it needed a new anthem to sing its way out of a real jam? “Won’t Back Down,” “Born in the USA,” “American Woman,” “Highway to Hell,” “Don’t Stop Believin’?” Estonia’s national bird is the barn swallow. It’s no pin-up like the bald eagle, nor a chart-busting singer—but, aptly, a humble survivor for all seasons. Healing conflict with music, now that’s a concept. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ “We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of dreams.” —Willy Wonka Tallinn, Estonia’s capital city Estonian family about to break into song Estonia lacks military might and has always been surrounded by much larger countries with intimidating armies. Russia, Germany, and Sweden all vied for its control, creating a tug of war that lasted centuries. Inspired by the fall of the Iron Curtain, Estonia symbolically overcame its latest suppressor, the U.S.S.R., when country-wide choir jam-bands launched their Singing Revolution. Here, choirs outrank sports as a national pastime—some attracting as many as 30,000 singers. Song festival fairgrounds, with their signature bandshell arches, are everywhere. Estonian beauty After 50 years of Soviet repression, in August, 1989, two million Baltic citizens, including people from neighboring Latvia and Lithuania, created an unbroken 350-mile human chain linking the countries in their call for freedom. The likeminded people held hands, and changed their destiny. Estonia, where medieval meets modern, sang themselves free. Their keynote battle-charge song, “My Fatherland is My Love,” has since become their unofficial national anthem. Another Estonian beauty (sort of) While in Estonia, I asked several street-strolling locals to sing for me, and true to form, they obliged. One woman sang the entire unofficial anthem as we stood on an empty street. The Baltic Singing Revolution made me wonder, what would the U.S. choose if it needed a new anthem to sing its way out of a real jam? “Won’t Back Down,” “Born in the USA,” “American Woman,” “Highway to Hell,” “Don’t Stop Believin’?” Estonia’s national bird is the barn swallow. It’s no pin-up like the bald eagle, nor a chart-busting singer—but, aptly, a humble survivor for all seasons. Healing conflict with music, now that’s a concept. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ “We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of dreams.” —Willy Wonka Tallinn, Estonia’s capital city Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-10-31T11:39:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/new-yorks-catskills http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/new-yorks-catskills#When:14:37:00Z Sullivan County’s Frick Pond Many people lump the Catskills into one big clichéd New Yorker getaway. But each county in the legendary mountainous haven has its own persona. Sullivan County, for instance, has no shortage of vacation-option diversity, earth-sensitive culture, or natural bliss. Here are a few options that might lure you into its quiet, or not so quiet, greenery. Bethel Woods Center for the Arts DANCE LIKE A HIPPIE: Bethel Woods Center for the Arts is a beautiful concert pavilion built adjacent to the site of the 1969 Woodstock music festival that attracted half a million fans. Up to 16,000 fans can enjoy the shade under the pavilion or sprawl out on acres of grass surrounded by farms and hillsides. The onsite museum—The Museum at Bethel Woods—proves that this is still ground zero for peace and love by reincarnating the legacy of the Sixties with the Woodstock concert as its beacon. The first third of the magical mystery tour sets the historical stage for the era, while the rest of inspired space uses video, relics, fashion displays, iconic pictures, sit-down theaters, and even a magic bus to transport you into the freedom-loving hippie era. Museum curator and Woodstock expert Wade Lawrence noted that for the original festival “half a million fans couldn’t make it here, so they just parked on the highway and started their own parties.” This place is memorabilia heaven for any student of alternative American history. For indoor and outdoor concert schedules, a wide variety of year-round events, and a taste of the museum’s paraphernalia, visit bethelwoodscenter.org. Dancing Cat Saloon owner Stacey entertaining customers FEAST: The Dancing Cat Saloon, across the street from the Bethel Woods convert pavilion, is way more than a live music joint. Its hearty cuisine is interweaved with spirits distilled right next door with local grains at Catskill Distilling. Options include Mama’s “Wicked White” Meatloaf, infused with their handcrafted, unaged Wicked White Whiskey, and “Peace” Shrimp & Clams, which is spiced up with their award-winning Peace Vodka and with a hint of everything from pastry dough to cola. The antique bar was transported from a famed haunt in New Haven, CT, and the wood theme never sleeps as carvings—including a few dancing cats—enliven the warm space. dancingcatsaloon.com and catskilldistilling.com. The Golden Guernsey ‘Barn & Breakfast’ STAY: Cochecton’s inviting B&B (barn & breakfast) option is the Golden Guernsey, a two-story cabin with a first floor common room, including a reading area, full kitchen, and a supply of games, classic video tapes, and books. The cozy throwback bedroom has a VCR. Chickens and turkeys roam the otherwise quiet, wooded yard area while very few cars pass by each hour. A home-cooked vegetarian breakfast is served each morning and relaxing in-room massages are available. Very close to Bethel Woods. thegoldenguernsey.com. Villa Roma Villa Roma is a classic, everyone-welcome Catskills resort with an all-inclusive camp atmosphere. The sprawling hotel and timeshare campus (near Callicoon) has something for everyone including nightly family night activities and live music options. The five-course meals served in a dressed-down banquet-like environment is further colored by the friendly international staff. villaroma.com Delaware River flowing through Sullivan County SPLASH: The Delaware River is the spine of the Catskills and a great place to tube, kayak, and canoe. Contact Lander’s River Trips, 800 252 3925 or landersrivertrips.com. HIKE: Morgan Outdoors in Livingston Manor is the Catskills hiking and nature-loving nerve center. This informed hiking retailer takes environmental awareness and mountain climbing advice to another level. The top-shelf gear, clothing, and footwear is matched by an array of maps and guidebooks. Owner Lisa Lyons—“When in doubt, go out!”—should be appointed to our national conservation board. morgan-outdoors.com. For more information on Sullivan County visit scva.net. For city folks, consider taking the Shortline bus (coachusa.com) from the Port Authority to Liberty, NY and renting a car via Sam’s. samstowingworld.com (click to Hertz site). Ps, Narrowsburg, a quaint Pennsylvania-bordering village has an annual Riverfest, featuring bands, local cuisine, and reminders that we all share this planet. artsaliancesite.org. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Bad Company’s lead singer Paul Rodgers My Catskills highlight: At the impressive concert pavilion in Bethel Woods, N.Y., on the site of the 1969 Woodstock music festival, I witnessed an overpowering Bad Company show. I managed a photo pit pass for the first four songs, and uh, sorta forgot to snap. Ten feet from singer Paul Rodgers and guitar legend Mick Ralphs, I couldn’t help but just rock it, dancing in the aisles as they say. The career concert photogs looked at me like I was a hack. I did manage a few pics (above). I also got curious looks from the band. I think they were thinking ‘who brought the dancing guy into the photo pit?’ Sullivan County’s Frick Pond Many people lump the Catskills into one big clichéd New Yorker getaway. But each county in the legendary mountainous haven has its own persona. Sullivan County, for instance, has no shortage of vacation-option diversity, earth-sensitive culture, or natural bliss. Here are a few options that might lure you into its quiet, or not so quiet, greenery. Bethel Woods Center for the Arts DANCE LIKE A HIPPIE: Bethel Woods Center for the Arts is a beautiful concert pavilion built adjacent to the site of the 1969 Woodstock music festival that attracted half a million fans. Up to 16,000 fans can enjoy the shade under the pavilion or sprawl out on acres of grass surrounded by farms and hillsides. The onsite museum—The Museum at Bethel Woods—proves that this is still ground zero for peace and love by reincarnating the legacy of the Sixties with the Woodstock concert as its beacon. The first third of the magical mystery tour sets the historical stage for the era, while the rest of inspired space uses video, relics, fashion displays, iconic pictures, sit-down theaters, and even a magic bus to transport you into the freedom-loving hippie era. Museum curator and Woodstock expert Wade Lawrence noted that for the original festival “half a million fans couldn’t make it here, so they just parked on the highway and started their own parties.” This place is memorabilia heaven for any student of alternative American history. For indoor and outdoor concert schedules, a wide variety of year-round events, and a taste of the museum’s paraphernalia, visit bethelwoodscenter.org. Dancing Cat Saloon owner Stacey entertaining customers FEAST: The Dancing Cat Saloon, across the street from the Bethel Woods convert pavilion, is way more than a live music joint. Its hearty cuisine is interweaved with spirits distilled right next door with local grains at Catskill Distilling. Options include Mama’s “Wicked White” Meatloaf, infused with their handcrafted, unaged Wicked White Whiskey, and “Peace” Shrimp & Clams, which is spiced up with their award-winning Peace Vodka and with a hint of everything from pastry dough to cola. The antique bar was transported from a famed haunt in New Haven, CT, and the wood theme never sleeps as carvings—including a few dancing cats—enliven the warm space. dancingcatsaloon.com and catskilldistilling.com. The Golden Guernsey ‘Barn & Breakfast’ STAY: Cochecton’s inviting B&B (barn & breakfast) option is the Golden Guernsey, a two-story cabin with a first floor common room, including a reading area, full kitchen, and a supply of games, classic video tapes, and books. The cozy throwback bedroom has a VCR. Chickens and turkeys roam the otherwise quiet, wooded yard area while very few cars pass by each hour. A home-cooked vegetarian breakfast is served each morning and relaxing in-room massages are available. Very close to Bethel Woods. thegoldenguernsey.com. Villa Roma Villa Roma is a classic, everyone-welcome Catskills resort with an all-inclusive camp atmosphere. The sprawling hotel and timeshare campus (near Callicoon) has something for everyone including nightly family night activities and live music options. The five-course meals served in a dressed-down banquet-like environment is further colored by the friendly international staff. villaroma.com Delaware River flowing through Sullivan County SPLASH: The Delaware River is the spine of the Catskills and a great place to tube, kayak, and canoe. Contact Lander’s River Trips, 800 252 3925 or landersrivertrips.com. HIKE: Morgan Outdoors in Livingston Manor is the Catskills hiking and nature-loving nerve center. This informed hiking retailer takes environmental awareness and mountain climbing advice to another level. The top-shelf gear, clothing, and footwear is matched by an array of maps and guidebooks. Owner Lisa Lyons—“When in doubt, go out!”—should be appointed to our national conservation board. morgan-outdoors.com. For more information on Sullivan County visit scva.net. For city folks, consider taking the Shortline bus (coachusa.com) from the Port Authority to Liberty, NY and renting a car via Sam’s. samstowingworld.com (click to Hertz site). Ps, Narrowsburg, a quaint Pennsylvania-bordering village has an annual Riverfest, featuring bands, local cuisine, and reminders that we all share this planet. artsaliancesite.org. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Bad Company’s lead singer Paul Rodgers My Catskills highlight: At the impressive concert pavilion in Bethel Woods, N.Y., on the site of the 1969 Woodstock music festival, I witnessed an overpowering Bad Company show. I managed a photo pit pass for the first four songs, and uh, sorta forgot to snap. Ten feet from singer Paul Rodgers and guitar legend Mick Ralphs, I couldn’t help but just rock it, dancing in the aisles as they say. The career concert photogs looked at me like I was a hack. I did manage a few pics (above). I also got curious looks from the band. I think they were thinking ‘who brought the dancing guy into the photo pit?’ Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-10-10T14:37:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/jasperwhere-things-are-looking-up-literally http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/jasperwhere-things-are-looking-up-literally#When:14:42:00Z Jasper, Canada Jasper is a handsome railroad town if ever there was one. Epic mountain splendor surrounds a valley with a freight yard and train depot near the edge of the woody hamlet. Arriving by train, from either east or west, lets you experience the splendor of lofty peaks, wildlife, and untamed rivers and lakes. The VIA Rail trumps all other means of transport. Five-thousand lucky people live within Jasper National Park’s 4,200 square miles, the largest inhabitable region in the Canadian Rockies. These Rockies span from north of Montana up into the Yukon Territory and are disconnected from the Lower 48’s Rockies. This special part of the world is also disconnected from stress. Historic Jasper sits in a basin that strikes a delicate balance between conservation and development, ecology and economics. It’s the ultimate gateway to adventure within the largest and most northerly of the Canadian Rocky Mountain National Parks. In this UNESCO World Heritage Site, humans are in the minority of this lair for bear, elk, sheep, goats, coyotes, wolves, moose and lynx. But, the human presence here goes out of its way to show you a good time. Nightlife in this part of the world comes with a twist. Artificial light pollution in the night sky now means that two-thirds of the people living on earth can’t see the Milky Way. Stargazing aside, light smog, if you will, fundamentally changes what is day and night, meaning that all species (humans, birds, turtles…keep going) day/night cycles are disrupted. The hormones that fight diseases in all living things are altered by this interference. Jasper’s Dark Sky Festival This type of illumination trespass will forever hit a wall in Jasper National Park where sky-gazers don’t have to be a dying breed. Jasper National Park is now one of the world’s largest Dark Sky Preserves, as it conserves one of the world’s darkest skies. Hats off to Parks Canada for maintaining exemplary conservation practices in an area nearly as big as Connecticut. This preserve goes beyond applying strict lighting guidelines to enhance star and constellation viewing. The rules are also tailored to protect ecosystems and reduce energy consumption. Canadians know a good thing when they see it, and they want to keep it that way. The third annual Dark Sky Festival returns to its Jasper home October 25-27, 2013. Officially recognized by The Royal Astronomical Society as a Dark Sky Preserve, Jasper National Park offers some of the world’s best starlight viewing. Professional star-seekers and experienced astronomers are on hand throughout the festival to give their expert how-to advice on the prime viewing spots. There will be a full schedule of events, lectures, and lessons on capturing the night sky on camera with acclaimed photographers and some of the biggest names in the world of stargazing. For more information about The Jasper Dark Sky Festival visit jasperdarkskyfest.com. Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge With all that looking skyward, you’ll need a place to rest your head. The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is one of Canada’s classic lodge experiences. A great starting point for multiple hikes, this year-round destination for those seeking outdoor bliss and inner quietude. Originally an eight-bungalow wilderness retreat at the turn of the 20th century, the landmark lodge now has 446 rooms on 900-acres in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Imagine basking in an outdoor heated pool while gazing at untamed, snow-covered peaks. Cavell’s Restaurant in the lodge also overlooks the ice-blessed mountains, but also gives you a view of the lake. The lodge’s Reflections Spa can make a good day even better. fairmont.com/jasper/ Marmot Basin Marmot Basin, located only 20 minutes outside of Jasper is made up of a breathtaking, vast, and rugged mountain landscape. There are 1,675 skiable acres and 3,000 vertical feet of superb, crowd-free terrain that make this a skier’s paradise. Adjoining log-style chalets provide a variety of food and drink options, inside or on several outdoor decks. There are also handy mid-mountain dining options. skimarmot.com. The Jasper Brewing Company, a brew pub and eatery, is the first brewery to open in a National Park. The diverse menu includes Old School Spaghetti & Cheddar Filled Meatballs, and the Fist Pumping Hippy, a vegetarian medley. Here, they believe there’s an occasion for every beer and a beer for every occasion. This spacious, old-style tavern looks to the future of beer and food while honoring its past. jasperbrewingco.ca ‘Downtown’ Jasper Evil Dave’s Grill, a funky, upbeat restaurant, is the backdrop for an unexpected Canadian Rockies dining experience—uncomplicated Canadian gourmet fare. The globally inspired menu includes the tasty and gigantic Malevolent Meatloaf (lean ground Alberta bison and wild boar), Cowboy Sushi, and Hell’s Chicken Sinful Soup. evildavesgrill.com A wildlife tour might fall flat if you only see the region’s usual suspects, elk and mountain goats. But the guides—Wildlife Interpreters—at Sundog Wildlife Tours double as historians, sightseeing commentators, photography advisors, and entertainers. They also run van shuttles to and from Edmonton. sundogtours.com. Jasper National Park’s Patricia Lake *Via Rail has service to and from all points east and west of Jasper. Arriving via either direction passes through the Canadian Rockies—some of the best scenery in North America. viarail.ca *The Glacier Skywalk in Jasper National Park overlooks the Sunwapta Valley and will be open in spring 2014. glacierskywalk.ca Jasper, Canada Jasper is a handsome railroad town if ever there was one. Epic mountain splendor surrounds a valley with a freight yard and train depot near the edge of the woody hamlet. Arriving by train, from either east or west, lets you experience the splendor of lofty peaks, wildlife, and untamed rivers and lakes. The VIA Rail trumps all other means of transport. Five-thousand lucky people live within Jasper National Park’s 4,200 square miles, the largest inhabitable region in the Canadian Rockies. These Rockies span from north of Montana up into the Yukon Territory and are disconnected from the Lower 48’s Rockies. This special part of the world is also disconnected from stress. Historic Jasper sits in a basin that strikes a delicate balance between conservation and development, ecology and economics. It’s the ultimate gateway to adventure within the largest and most northerly of the Canadian Rocky Mountain National Parks. In this UNESCO World Heritage Site, humans are in the minority of this lair for bear, elk, sheep, goats, coyotes, wolves, moose and lynx. But, the human presence here goes out of its way to show you a good time. Nightlife in this part of the world comes with a twist. Artificial light pollution in the night sky now means that two-thirds of the people living on earth can’t see the Milky Way. Stargazing aside, light smog, if you will, fundamentally changes what is day and night, meaning that all species (humans, birds, turtles…keep going) day/night cycles are disrupted. The hormones that fight diseases in all living things are altered by this interference. Jasper’s Dark Sky Festival This type of illumination trespass will forever hit a wall in Jasper National Park where sky-gazers don’t have to be a dying breed. Jasper National Park is now one of the world’s largest Dark Sky Preserves, as it conserves one of the world’s darkest skies. Hats off to Parks Canada for maintaining exemplary conservation practices in an area nearly as big as Connecticut. This preserve goes beyond applying strict lighting guidelines to enhance star and constellation viewing. The rules are also tailored to protect ecosystems and reduce energy consumption. Canadians know a good thing when they see it, and they want to keep it that way. The third annual Dark Sky Festival returns to its Jasper home October 25-27, 2013. Officially recognized by The Royal Astronomical Society as a Dark Sky Preserve, Jasper National Park offers some of the world’s best starlight viewing. Professional star-seekers and experienced astronomers are on hand throughout the festival to give their expert how-to advice on the prime viewing spots. There will be a full schedule of events, lectures, and lessons on capturing the night sky on camera with acclaimed photographers and some of the biggest names in the world of stargazing. For more information about The Jasper Dark Sky Festival visit jasperdarkskyfest.com. Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge With all that looking skyward, you’ll need a place to rest your head. The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is one of Canada’s classic lodge experiences. A great starting point for multiple hikes, this year-round destination for those seeking outdoor bliss and inner quietude. Originally an eight-bungalow wilderness retreat at the turn of the 20th century, the landmark lodge now has 446 rooms on 900-acres in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Imagine basking in an outdoor heated pool while gazing at untamed, snow-covered peaks. Cavell’s Restaurant in the lodge also overlooks the ice-blessed mountains, but also gives you a view of the lake. The lodge’s Reflections Spa can make a good day even better. fairmont.com/jasper/ Marmot Basin Marmot Basin, located only 20 minutes outside of Jasper is made up of a breathtaking, vast, and rugged mountain landscape. There are 1,675 skiable acres and 3,000 vertical feet of superb, crowd-free terrain that make this a skier’s paradise. Adjoining log-style chalets provide a variety of food and drink options, inside or on several outdoor decks. There are also handy mid-mountain dining options. skimarmot.com. The Jasper Brewing Company, a brew pub and eatery, is the first brewery to open in a National Park. The diverse menu includes Old School Spaghetti & Cheddar Filled Meatballs, and the Fist Pumping Hippy, a vegetarian medley. Here, they believe there’s an occasion for every beer and a beer for every occasion. This spacious, old-style tavern looks to the future of beer and food while honoring its past. jasperbrewingco.ca ‘Downtown’ Jasper Evil Dave’s Grill, a funky, upbeat restaurant, is the backdrop for an unexpected Canadian Rockies dining experience—uncomplicated Canadian gourmet fare. The globally inspired menu includes the tasty and gigantic Malevolent Meatloaf (lean ground Alberta bison and wild boar), Cowboy Sushi, and Hell’s Chicken Sinful Soup. evildavesgrill.com A wildlife tour might fall flat if you only see the region’s usual suspects, elk and mountain goats. But the guides—Wildlife Interpreters—at Sundog Wildlife Tours double as historians, sightseeing commentators, photography advisors, and entertainers. They also run van shuttles to and from Edmonton. sundogtours.com. Jasper National Park’s Patricia Lake *Via Rail has service to and from all points east and west of Jasper. Arriving via either direction passes through the Canadian Rockies—some of the best scenery in North America. viarail.ca *The Glacier Skywalk in Jasper National Park overlooks the Sunwapta Valley and will be open in spring 2014. glacierskywalk.ca Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-09-27T14:42:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/nantucket-doable-paradise http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/nantucket-doable-paradise#When:16:36:00Z Sconset’s Front Street Getting away from it all is relative. When you land on a small island without fast food, nowhere to drive faster than 45 miles per hour, and little connection to the 24-hour broadcasts of worldly woes, you’re onto something. Taking the art of escape a step further, many Nantucket regulars favor Siasconset (commonly referred to as Sconset), a quieter, sunnier corner of the island known for quaint cottages overtaken by roses. Fans of this curve of the island avoid Nantucket’s “downtown” high-season like a Manhattanite despises midtown during rush hour. A classic home decorating hall-of-fame, this small 18th century village/arts community would win any gardening Olympics. In contrast to the less intimate mansions that define other parts of the island, Sconset’s flora-ensconced bungalows all have cedar-shake shingles tinted blue by the salty wind. The cottages line narrow roads and pathways—a stroller’s paradise and a treat for your senses. The Colonial American perspective lingers here. Not only do locals still hang flags on gravestones on Memorial Day, but their steep New England accents also conjure up images of an earlier era when whalers battled pirates. Colonial Williamsburg, an olden Americana theme park in Virginia employing actors in character, should be peering over its shoulder at Nantucket—the real thing. Barely a square mile, Sconset is the only other hamlet on the island with a market and other conveniences within walking distance. Surviving on other parts of the island requires a drive. In the 1800s, Sconset’s summer cottages were for the “city folks” from Nantucket’s business district, which is a few miles away. Nantucket’s Summer House Cottages Visitors who want to make themselves at home in the area will find stylish accommodations in Sconset’s legendary Summer House Cottages. They keep it simple though with optional door padlocks, broken-in wood floors, and old-fashioned light switches (a relief from the complicated remote-control lighting that’s now common in upstart posh digs). The boutique rooms are plush without trying. An inviting courtyard with sitting areas is surrounded by 18 beautifully appointed rose-covered cottages that come in as many shapes and sizes. The cottages recall the area’s history as a collection of rustic fishing bungalows. The Summer House’s Sweet Pee Cottage At the heart of the cottages is the main house, a multi-room refuge that serves as a bar, a living room, a breakfast buffet, and at night an old-style party room. There, after dining, guests surround a crooning piano player and sing and dance the night away. This enchanting haven also features The Summer House Restaurant, a timeless, homey setting where the seafood makes headlines. There’s no shortage of freshly ocean-caught anything, prosciutto-wrapped black mission figs, or the best clam chowder you’ll taste this year. Leave your watch, gadgets, and distractions behind. Because people often make a place, Summer House’s owner, Danielle De Benidictus, raises personalized service to a new level. A renowned lawyer and one of the first female law partners in U.S. history, Danielle brought two Equal Rights Amendment cases to the Supreme Court in the early 1970s. Older, wiser, and mellower, she still carries the torch for justice. Her storied marriage adds another dimension to her knack for storytelling. Her husband, Peter Karlsen, is like having Cary Grant around to wryly balance her tales of fair dealing, island lore, and co-owning one of the niftiest archetypal resorts on the east coast. The couple once owned the “Aerosmith Building,” where the band of the same name lived in the early 80s as “aberrational tenants.” Peter has since happily made amends with Steven Tyler. Visiting musicians are fans of the Summer House, as Billy Joel and Carly Simon have also graced its piano bench. Beachside Bistro Just across the road and down 27 steps from The Summer House Cottages is the popular Beachside Bistro, where you can dine al fresco in Gatsby-mode, but wearing shorts and flip-flops. Danielle and Peter’s son, Chris Karlsen, dons many hats, triple-hitting as restaurant manager, hotelier, and the resort’s ambassador. Chris understands that nature comes first here—a venue serving crab cakes, lobster bisque, and other classics. The newly renovated bistro is sandwiched between the freshwater pool and an ocean overlook. The next eastbound stop is Portugal. White umbrellas shade 40 tables that are all surrounded by Mother Nature’s rugged oceanside glory. It’s the only establishment on this quiet stretch of beach, and it thrives among sea grass, piney brush, and rosehips. I got the lowdown on Nantucket’s reputation as a Who’s Who summer-camp-for-the-elite between the Beachside Bistro’s lunch and dinner rushes. That’s when the local career caddies—members of a self-elected caddy hall of fame—belly-up to the bistro’s outdoor bar to discuss life on the island’s three-and-a half courses. One telling caddy testimonial about Nantucket’s rich-and-famous golf set got me thinking: “Millionaires leave their tees behind, but billionaires bend over and pick them up—because they know the value of a nickel.” Herman Melville penned his epic novel Moby-Dick (1851) without having visited Nantucket, though the island and its whaling history form the backbone of that novel. Another caddie, a Melville buff, lifted his mug and toasted the gang by quoting from his tattered copy… “The Nantucketer, he alone resides and riots on the sea…” And then another calming breeze graced the bistro just as the scallops arrived. But you can’t sleep at the bar. The impressive and inexpensive island-wide bus service ($2 from Sconset into town) is called The Wave, which doubles as a conversation center and a fashion show. New Yorkers who ride public transport are all too familiar with the “You lookin’ at me?” dilemma. It takes a bit of magic and luck to start a conversation on a subway. However, on Nantucket’s bus routes, folks spontaneously chat like they’re long-lost pals. However, once you step off the bus, the bargains expire. There seems to be no downside here, as long as you’re not cringing every time you pass an ATM. Figs at 29 Fair If you need further proof that Nantucket is also a foodie destination, check out Figs at 29 Fair, which serves superb meals inspired by celebrity chef Todd English. Built in 1709, the restaurant proves that getting old isn’t so bad. Ducking under interior structural outcrops is in vogue here, including inside the bathroom where you have to dip below the underside of the base of a staircase to reach the toilet. The old wood is comforting, and the flickering-candle lighting is still not for show. Menu options include Maine lobster ravioli, gourmet pizzas, and bread pudding. Some waiters are 30-year veterans with no shortage of goodwill, jokes, and vintage wine wisdom. Within walking distance from this iconic landmark, the downtown boat basin, once a whaler’s dock, is a showcase for billionaires’ boats and ships. More telling, from my angle, is how this dock serves up a variety of international crew members who are ready to share the real lowdown on the lifestyles of floating royalty. Nantucket is more than Massachusetts’ privileged on vacation. People from every niche come from far and wide to enjoy this interactive antique, and when you see daytrippers lining up for the ferry ride back to the mainland you sense their despair about exiting a fantasy. While stuck in that moment, a Porsche bounces by on an uneven cobblestone street past a skateboarder who is chatting with an elegantly dressed woman as she walks her golden retriever. Stylish but briny and broken in—also possibly a metaphor for your purse while here—this storied island clamps all things fancy down-to-earth. Back when kerosene killed the whale oil industry, many Nantucketers fled to the California Gold Rush. Seems that rush has found its way back east. * For more information visit thesummerhouse.com ~ 508.257.4577 ~ 17 Ocean Ave, Siasconset, Massachusetts * Don’t miss the Whaling Museum, featuring the skeleton of a 47-foot sperm whale (they can grow to 65-80 feet), a scrimshaw exhibit of elaborate carvings made from whale tusks, and paintings of seafaring men and women. Also check out Nantucket, a DVD by Rick Burns. Visit nha.org/sites/index. * Fly to Nantucket in style: Cape Air flies to Nantucket from Westchester County Airport (HPN). These lower altitude flights above Long Island Sound overlook the Long Island and Connecticut shorelines, and is trip in itself.  Cape Air flies the super-reliable Cessna 420 twin engine prop planes, which can cruise at 9,000 feet and fly at 165+ MPH. The trip takes 80 minutes and costs approximately $650 round trip from HPN. Cape Air also provides options for overland transport to the airport from New York Metro area—I cruised in one of their Mercedes mini vans. Visit capeair.com. Nantucket’s Brant Point Lighthouse Sconset’s Front Street Getting away from it all is relative. When you land on a small island without fast food, nowhere to drive faster than 45 miles per hour, and little connection to the 24-hour broadcasts of worldly woes, you’re onto something. Taking the art of escape a step further, many Nantucket regulars favor Siasconset (commonly referred to as Sconset), a quieter, sunnier corner of the island known for quaint cottages overtaken by roses. Fans of this curve of the island avoid Nantucket’s “downtown” high-season like a Manhattanite despises midtown during rush hour. A classic home decorating hall-of-fame, this small 18th century village/arts community would win any gardening Olympics. In contrast to the less intimate mansions that define other parts of the island, Sconset’s flora-ensconced bungalows all have cedar-shake shingles tinted blue by the salty wind. The cottages line narrow roads and pathways—a stroller’s paradise and a treat for your senses. The Colonial American perspective lingers here. Not only do locals still hang flags on gravestones on Memorial Day, but their steep New England accents also conjure up images of an earlier era when whalers battled pirates. Colonial Williamsburg, an olden Americana theme park in Virginia employing actors in character, should be peering over its shoulder at Nantucket—the real thing. Barely a square mile, Sconset is the only other hamlet on the island with a market and other conveniences within walking distance. Surviving on other parts of the island requires a drive. In the 1800s, Sconset’s summer cottages were for the “city folks” from Nantucket’s business district, which is a few miles away. Nantucket’s Summer House Cottages Visitors who want to make themselves at home in the area will find stylish accommodations in Sconset’s legendary Summer House Cottages. They keep it simple though with optional door padlocks, broken-in wood floors, and old-fashioned light switches (a relief from the complicated remote-control lighting that’s now common in upstart posh digs). The boutique rooms are plush without trying. An inviting courtyard with sitting areas is surrounded by 18 beautifully appointed rose-covered cottages that come in as many shapes and sizes. The cottages recall the area’s history as a collection of rustic fishing bungalows. The Summer House’s Sweet Pee Cottage At the heart of the cottages is the main house, a multi-room refuge that serves as a bar, a living room, a breakfast buffet, and at night an old-style party room. There, after dining, guests surround a crooning piano player and sing and dance the night away. This enchanting haven also features The Summer House Restaurant, a timeless, homey setting where the seafood makes headlines. There’s no shortage of freshly ocean-caught anything, prosciutto-wrapped black mission figs, or the best clam chowder you’ll taste this year. Leave your watch, gadgets, and distractions behind. Because people often make a place, Summer House’s owner, Danielle De Benidictus, raises personalized service to a new level. A renowned lawyer and one of the first female law partners in U.S. history, Danielle brought two Equal Rights Amendment cases to the Supreme Court in the early 1970s. Older, wiser, and mellower, she still carries the torch for justice. Her storied marriage adds another dimension to her knack for storytelling. Her husband, Peter Karlsen, is like having Cary Grant around to wryly balance her tales of fair dealing, island lore, and co-owning one of the niftiest archetypal resorts on the east coast. The couple once owned the “Aerosmith Building,” where the band of the same name lived in the early 80s as “aberrational tenants.” Peter has since happily made amends with Steven Tyler. Visiting musicians are fans of the Summer House, as Billy Joel and Carly Simon have also graced its piano bench. Beachside Bistro Just across the road and down 27 steps from The Summer House Cottages is the popular Beachside Bistro, where you can dine al fresco in Gatsby-mode, but wearing shorts and flip-flops. Danielle and Peter’s son, Chris Karlsen, dons many hats, triple-hitting as restaurant manager, hotelier, and the resort’s ambassador. Chris understands that nature comes first here—a venue serving crab cakes, lobster bisque, and other classics. The newly renovated bistro is sandwiched between the freshwater pool and an ocean overlook. The next eastbound stop is Portugal. White umbrellas shade 40 tables that are all surrounded by Mother Nature’s rugged oceanside glory. It’s the only establishment on this quiet stretch of beach, and it thrives among sea grass, piney brush, and rosehips. I got the lowdown on Nantucket’s reputation as a Who’s Who summer-camp-for-the-elite between the Beachside Bistro’s lunch and dinner rushes. That’s when the local career caddies—members of a self-elected caddy hall of fame—belly-up to the bistro’s outdoor bar to discuss life on the island’s three-and-a half courses. One telling caddy testimonial about Nantucket’s rich-and-famous golf set got me thinking: “Millionaires leave their tees behind, but billionaires bend over and pick them up—because they know the value of a nickel.” Herman Melville penned his epic novel Moby-Dick (1851) without having visited Nantucket, though the island and its whaling history form the backbone of that novel. Another caddie, a Melville buff, lifted his mug and toasted the gang by quoting from his tattered copy… “The Nantucketer, he alone resides and riots on the sea…” And then another calming breeze graced the bistro just as the scallops arrived. But you can’t sleep at the bar. The impressive and inexpensive island-wide bus service ($2 from Sconset into town) is called The Wave, which doubles as a conversation center and a fashion show. New Yorkers who ride public transport are all too familiar with the “You lookin’ at me?” dilemma. It takes a bit of magic and luck to start a conversation on a subway. However, on Nantucket’s bus routes, folks spontaneously chat like they’re long-lost pals. However, once you step off the bus, the bargains expire. There seems to be no downside here, as long as you’re not cringing every time you pass an ATM. Figs at 29 Fair If you need further proof that Nantucket is also a foodie destination, check out Figs at 29 Fair, which serves superb meals inspired by celebrity chef Todd English. Built in 1709, the restaurant proves that getting old isn’t so bad. Ducking under interior structural outcrops is in vogue here, including inside the bathroom where you have to dip below the underside of the base of a staircase to reach the toilet. The old wood is comforting, and the flickering-candle lighting is still not for show. Menu options include Maine lobster ravioli, gourmet pizzas, and bread pudding. Some waiters are 30-year veterans with no shortage of goodwill, jokes, and vintage wine wisdom. Within walking distance from this iconic landmark, the downtown boat basin, once a whaler’s dock, is a showcase for billionaires’ boats and ships. More telling, from my angle, is how this dock serves up a variety of international crew members who are ready to share the real lowdown on the lifestyles of floating royalty. Nantucket is more than Massachusetts’ privileged on vacation. People from every niche come from far and wide to enjoy this interactive antique, and when you see daytrippers lining up for the ferry ride back to the mainland you sense their despair about exiting a fantasy. While stuck in that moment, a Porsche bounces by on an uneven cobblestone street past a skateboarder who is chatting with an elegantly dressed woman as she walks her golden retriever. Stylish but briny and broken in—also possibly a metaphor for your purse while here—this storied island clamps all things fancy down-to-earth. Back when kerosene killed the whale oil industry, many Nantucketers fled to the California Gold Rush. Seems that rush has found its way back east. * For more information visit thesummerhouse.com ~ 508.257.4577 ~ 17 Ocean Ave, Siasconset, Massachusetts * Don’t miss the Whaling Museum, featuring the skeleton of a 47-foot sperm whale (they can grow to 65-80 feet), a scrimshaw exhibit of elaborate carvings made from whale tusks, and paintings of seafaring men and women. Also check out Nantucket, a DVD by Rick Burns. Visit nha.org/sites/index. * Fly to Nantucket in style: Cape Air flies to Nantucket from Westchester County Airport (HPN). These lower altitude flights above Long Island Sound overlook the Long Island and Connecticut shorelines, and is trip in itself.  Cape Air flies the super-reliable Cessna 420 twin engine prop planes, which can cruise at 9,000 feet and fly at 165+ MPH. The trip takes 80 minutes and costs approximately $650 round trip from HPN. Cape Air also provides options for overland transport to the airport from New York Metro area—I cruised in one of their Mercedes mini vans. Visit capeair.com. Nantucket’s Brant Point Lighthouse Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-09-18T16:36:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/tweak-your-identity-while-traveling http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/tweak-your-identity-while-traveling#When:20:49:00Z “Inspector of snowstorms.” —Henry David Thoreau’s self-appointed title Alias Option: International Frisbee-Throwing Model (no offense to my Dani pal from Irian Jaya) Choctaw Indians communicate using two past tenses: one for giving confirmed information, and the other for passing on material taken without verifying the source. Consider a tense that pardons fleeting impersonations. I am a proud American who has been roving the international circuit for decades. However, in the days of my youth, I’d occasionally find it necessary to beat anti-American hecklers to the punch using a little bait and switch. Socializing while traveling abroad, especially as a rookie, can be an uphill climb involving feeble attempts to overturn stereotypes. Due to a legacy—with some kinks—a swath of other-country folk tend to negatively generalize about all things Americana. If you need a break from this patented scenario, throw them off course with a fib or two. Embellish. Be someone else for a day. Alias Option: Tortoise Shell Drummer Example: “Where are you from?” they ask. Possible replies: “I’m a professional pogo stick competitor.” … “I’m scouting local talent for the next edition of the Guinness World Records.” … “I’m here to invent this country’s new tourism slogan.” I’ve also claimed that I was a “Beer Cicerone.” Most effective was stating, in a whisper, “I can’t talk about it.” Also consider toying with an invented alias. Your parents chose a name for you that suited their mood at the time. Sometimes you may be more in the mood for a pen name. Pick one that suits your future aspirations, hints at an emerging talent, reflects your life experience, or might help you gain entry into an otherwise private function. You update friends on your relationship and occupation status. While roaming, entice strangers by stating those ranks with a twist. Alias Option: Mark Twain/Glider-Pilot Impersonator Reflective of achievements and aspirations, name changing was, and hopefully still is, common among Aboriginal tribes. Here and now, how about naming things (like you) in conjunction with a visual equivalent? One of the prevailing clichés of contemporary art is that it serves as a “mirror of its time.” Inherit your new self by way of an interim stage name. Testers: Colt, Wit, Emmy, Chairman, Dare, Dog-God, Dynamode, Stellar, Aide. Alias Option: Herbal Medicine Superhero (note: holding ‘African Viagra’) Until the 1990s, American collegians were still flocking exclusively to Europe in droves while young Australians, New Zealanders, and Northern Europeans were discovering Asia’s charms. Ronald Reagan and Bush, Sr. weren’t very popular with the aforementioned travel set, who often drank beer in packs and made their imperial annoyances known to the rare, roaming Americans. If you think today’s young Canadians are tough on Americans while abroad, triple it before Bill Clinton. At first, I stoutly defended my homeland, falling into their traps (Sylvester Stallone good, right?). Later, I helped the residents of these mostly socialized countries to understand some of America’s charms: blues and jazz, ZZ Top, Michael Jordan, vigilante Charles Bronson. As the years of socializing with surly alien critics became decades, I realized that it takes time for all of us to separate citizenry from politics…something very clear to most travelers you’ll meet once they pass the age of 30. You really can’t judge travelers by their country—unless you’ve been a waiter who has served the French. Alias Option: Caricature Commune Star The next step in the ceasefire process presents an intersection. One route is to gang up on the good ole USA with critics, which derails the killjoy, spins the slagging around, and eventually makes them sit back while you help them pick on their homeland. A more sustainable option is erasing the trite American labels foreigners embrace, usually because they believe the BS spewing from televisions, by sharing your truths about our homeland. It’s more fun too, but that’s another story. *Question—asked by a European—overheard in Aruba (driving past Outback Steakhouse): Can I talk English here? *Answer (now peering into Hooters): Sure, but you’ll need to learn it first. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ In a related vein, skewing otherwise bothersome conversations at home is also a way to entertain oneself. Tribe-sensitive discrimination can also occur in-country. When people ask me where I grew up, my patent answer is, “Isle de Long.” This throws generalization-bent inquisitors off the stereotypical mockery about heralding from New York’s Long Island: “Strong Island?”…“You mean LawnGuyland?” The list goes on. Anyone from New Jersey has also been down this road. Alias Option: Desert Survivalist/Marksman “Inspector of snowstorms.” —Henry David Thoreau’s self-appointed title Alias Option: International Frisbee-Throwing Model (no offense to my Dani pal from Irian Jaya) Choctaw Indians communicate using two past tenses: one for giving confirmed information, and the other for passing on material taken without verifying the source. Consider a tense that pardons fleeting impersonations. I am a proud American who has been roving the international circuit for decades. However, in the days of my youth, I’d occasionally find it necessary to beat anti-American hecklers to the punch using a little bait and switch. Socializing while traveling abroad, especially as a rookie, can be an uphill climb involving feeble attempts to overturn stereotypes. Due to a legacy—with some kinks—a swath of other-country folk tend to negatively generalize about all things Americana. If you need a break from this patented scenario, throw them off course with a fib or two. Embellish. Be someone else for a day. Alias Option: Tortoise Shell Drummer Example: “Where are you from?” they ask. Possible replies: “I’m a professional pogo stick competitor.” … “I’m scouting local talent for the next edition of the Guinness World Records.” … “I’m here to invent this country’s new tourism slogan.” I’ve also claimed that I was a “Beer Cicerone.” Most effective was stating, in a whisper, “I can’t talk about it.” Also consider toying with an invented alias. Your parents chose a name for you that suited their mood at the time. Sometimes you may be more in the mood for a pen name. Pick one that suits your future aspirations, hints at an emerging talent, reflects your life experience, or might help you gain entry into an otherwise private function. You update friends on your relationship and occupation status. While roaming, entice strangers by stating those ranks with a twist. Alias Option: Mark Twain/Glider-Pilot Impersonator Reflective of achievements and aspirations, name changing was, and hopefully still is, common among Aboriginal tribes. Here and now, how about naming things (like you) in conjunction with a visual equivalent? One of the prevailing clichés of contemporary art is that it serves as a “mirror of its time.” Inherit your new self by way of an interim stage name. Testers: Colt, Wit, Emmy, Chairman, Dare, Dog-God, Dynamode, Stellar, Aide. Alias Option: Herbal Medicine Superhero (note: holding ‘African Viagra’) Until the 1990s, American collegians were still flocking exclusively to Europe in droves while young Australians, New Zealanders, and Northern Europeans were discovering Asia’s charms. Ronald Reagan and Bush, Sr. weren’t very popular with the aforementioned travel set, who often drank beer in packs and made their imperial annoyances known to the rare, roaming Americans. If you think today’s young Canadians are tough on Americans while abroad, triple it before Bill Clinton. At first, I stoutly defended my homeland, falling into their traps (Sylvester Stallone good, right?). Later, I helped the residents of these mostly socialized countries to understand some of America’s charms: blues and jazz, ZZ Top, Michael Jordan, vigilante Charles Bronson. As the years of socializing with surly alien critics became decades, I realized that it takes time for all of us to separate citizenry from politics…something very clear to most travelers you’ll meet once they pass the age of 30. You really can’t judge travelers by their country—unless you’ve been a waiter who has served the French. Alias Option: Caricature Commune Star The next step in the ceasefire process presents an intersection. One route is to gang up on the good ole USA with critics, which derails the killjoy, spins the slagging around, and eventually makes them sit back while you help them pick on their homeland. A more sustainable option is erasing the trite American labels foreigners embrace, usually because they believe the BS spewing from televisions, by sharing your truths about our homeland. It’s more fun too, but that’s another story. *Question—asked by a European—overheard in Aruba (driving past Outback Steakhouse): Can I talk English here? *Answer (now peering into Hooters): Sure, but you’ll need to learn it first. ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ In a related vein, skewing otherwise bothersome conversations at home is also a way to entertain oneself. Tribe-sensitive discrimination can also occur in-country. When people ask me where I grew up, my patent answer is, “Isle de Long.” This throws generalization-bent inquisitors off the stereotypical mockery about heralding from New York’s Long Island: “Strong Island?”…“You mean LawnGuyland?” The list goes on. Anyone from New Jersey has also been down this road. Alias Option: Desert Survivalist/Marksman Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-08-29T20:49:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/charm-defined http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/charm-defined#When:14:25:00Z Wilmington, North Carolina The walking gene should not become out-selected over time. Ambling through walker-friendly Wilmington, North Carolina—where past and present gracefully comingle—historian and walking tour-guide extraordinaire Bob Jenkins pledged, “Wilmington was originally settled by pissed-off, Southern-English, draft-dodging, second sons.” Jenkins (a colorful, defrocked Methodist Minister) helped spearhead a movement to preserve historic sites and revitalize downtown beginning in the seventies. That effort endures and now boasts a 230-plus block National Register Historic District. “Native sons include Charles Kuralt and Michael Jordan,” he winked with a knowing smile. Alas, Bob no longer does his daily walking tours but is available for pre-arranged group tours. Bob Jenkins spinning a tale Merchant-class Victorian architecture dominates the airy urbanscape. Because of Wilmington’s commercial connection to Europe and isolation from the rest of the US until the Civil War, Wilmington’s affinity with Europe was then stronger than its tie with Raleigh—a mere 100 miles away. I-40 opened in the mid-90’s and nearly cut that travel time in half. For now, franchise sterilization has been mostly staved off, leaving Front Street a stolen reprieve from the corporate indenturing of America. The sleepy Dixie Grill is the front end of a vintage pool hall, and Mecca for satisfying doses of health food or tasty artery cement. Other fun dining experiences include The Basics (thebasicswilmington.com) offering Southern food with a gourmet twist, located in The Cotton Exchange (shopcottonexchange.com). Epicureans can certainly find their way to higher-end dining, but these are the places where the fun hides. Wilmington’s historic district The food and music menu is surprisingly diverse for a city that’s still actually quite isolated from the rest of North Carolina. Nightly music options include blues at the Rusty Nail, or options for Dixieland, jazz, rock, bluegrass, and folk in a variety of venues ranging from dungeonesque bar basements to breezy, outdoor brick courtyards. Halfway through a blues set at the Rusty Nail, an 80ish, white-bushbearded Jim Bath—who earned Playboy’s “Bachelor Pad of the Year” award in 1971—led me behind the bar to his shop where he was modifying scraped war ship (Iwo Jima) surgical room lamps into designer home lighting. Bath, a WWII Navy Pilot and transatlantic sailor, appeared in 50 movies since 1989, when he “settled” here. Although it would spell epic, this archetypal nomad fancies no epitaph beyond, “Recycle me as fish food.” Today, Jim has moved to different digs and no longer owns the shop, but is still a local. Narrated horse-drawn carriage ride The Barbary Coast tavern is a watering-hole icon that survived Wilmington’s facelift. A certified dog house (four and two-leg genres), the tone of this eldest bar is set by an everpresent array of canines ranging from yappers to lumbering English Mastiffs. The dungy joint has several moods. The afternoon regulars included a master portrait painter, an unemployed character actor who is, for better or worse, perpetually in character, an Irish-American Vietnam Vet and a philosophical Puerto Rican. Next came the baseball-capped laborers, followed by the late night, vintage rock aficionados. A respectful, roaring-20’s vibe pervades, and the jukebox fits every mode. Years back, a mounted cop rode inside for a photo opportunity. The tavern’s staff remains unmoved by stars dropping in from nearby Screen Gems Studios: This is one of America’s busiest film and television production towns. Recent film credits include The Conjuring, Iron Man 3, We’re the Millers, Tammy (starring Melissa McCarthy), and TV’s Under the Dome, and Revolution. Screen Gems Studios is where actor Brandon Lee met his demise in a gun accident while filming The Crow. The entire town was also the set for the Dawson’s Creek television series. Television and movie zealots will enjoy the Hollywood Location Walk of downtown locations. Also, nearby, the Cape Fear Segway company has a Hollywood themed Segway tour capefearsegway.com. As a New Yorker surrounded by struggling actors, it was bizarre to hear conversations about “extra work” and “new headshots” within earshot of gnarly shipbuilders discussing trucks in heavy southern accents. Vocational diversity makes this place tick. Wilmington has always been self-sustaining and one can forget that there are ocean beaches nearby. Wrightsville Beach is 10 miles from downtown and Carolina Beach/Kure Beach is 19 miles from downtown. Charleston and Savannah are a one-day sail. Wilmington’s Black River I opted to paddle and ponder inland into the sleepy Black River Enchanted Forest. Cruising Indian style on the tannin-tea colored Black River is a serene odyssey through swampy Cyprus forests. Kayak Carolina guide and owner Angela Pagenstecher, cruising tandem with her black lab Lucy, needled our group through a maze of the onion bulb-based trees lining the riverbank. The river has no homes or industry along its banks. The mythical, partially submerged, bent-knees root systems mystified our pilgrimage away from civilization. Kayak Carolina will pick you up in town with an option for overnight camping. It used to be that getting here was the chore. Riverside Wilmington rises up a slight hillside, 29 miles upriver from the confluence of the Cape Fear River and the Atlantic. Fear is the operative maritime term. The shifting underwater shoals, created by the mighty river’s merge with the ocean, is a chronic seafarer’s nightmare. To this day, six families of river pilots are still the reigning experts in navigating the confluence’s shifting shoals. Entering the river in a large vessel without one of them onboard is against the law. The first settlers were southern Englishmen, many without inheritance rights (traditionally entitled to the oldest brother) and nearly all apathetic toward fighting another King’s war, who sailed to the new world to exploit the region’s inexhaustible pine forests. Once ashore, they never left. Permanently turning their back on Britain, these Wilmington pioneers nurtured their revolutionary spirit in the Cape Fear Basin. The first open resistance to the enforcement of the British Stamp Acts occurred in Wilmington in 1765. North Carolina’s “Tar Heel” nickname was first coined by English businessmen able to identify local Wilmingtonians by their pine-tar-covered boot heels. Many Brits forewent visits to the land of their fortunes to avoid getting their boot heels stuck in the bountiful, multi-use sap. The Cape Fear river basin’s enormous resource of pine wood products came from the abundant Yellow Long Leaf (needle) Pine groves. WW II shipbuilding doubled Wilmington’s population and continues to support a substantial manufacturing and shipping base. During WWII, 243 battleships were built in five years. That vibrancy slipped somewhat in turbulent sixties and seventies when Merchant Marine hangouts included topless bars and a dirty bookstore… “You could shoot a cannon down Front Street and not hit anything,” reminisced Murphy, the Barbary Coast tavern’s former deputy. Usually, people make a place, and this community is blessed with goodwill. Visitors often find leaving this town is difficult. Wilmington has been reinvented to reflect its former glory and recall what it does best: Relax. * * * * * Visit GoWilmingtonAndBeaches.com or call 866-266-9690. Wilmington International Airport (flyilm.com) has service via USAir and Delta. There are scores of bed-and-breakfasts and inns to choose from. If you want a true “staying with friends” experience, a bed and breakfast emblemizing local architecture and grace is the way to go. The French House (thefrenchhouse.com) (c. 1850, Greek Revival) is on a one-way brick street of towering trees. It predates the town’s popular Victorian style with original footed bathtubs, hand-blown glass windows and wood trim. There’s also a separate, family-friendly two-bedroom cottage out back was originally the kitchen. Built by pioneer civic leader George R. French, one of Wilmington’s original residents, who owned a leather shop (boots, saddles) on Front St. The George R. French Building—a cast iron design storefront also on Historic Register. The French House Small town aficionados and music lovers will love it here. Basics: Wilmington and Beaches Convention & Visitors Bureau, (910) 341-4030, (800) 222-4757, visit@wilmingtonandbeaches.com. Kayak Carolina, kayakcarolina.com. Rusty Nail (Blues music), facebook.com/RustyNailWilmington. Hollywood Location Walk, hollywoodnc.com, Tour Old Wilmington, touroldwilmington.blogspot.com, Springbrook Farms Horsedrawn Carriage tours horsedrawntours.com, Wilmington Trolley Company, wilmingtontrolley.com. Wilmington, North Carolina The walking gene should not become out-selected over time. Ambling through walker-friendly Wilmington, North Carolina—where past and present gracefully comingle—historian and walking tour-guide extraordinaire Bob Jenkins pledged, “Wilmington was originally settled by pissed-off, Southern-English, draft-dodging, second sons.” Jenkins (a colorful, defrocked Methodist Minister) helped spearhead a movement to preserve historic sites and revitalize downtown beginning in the seventies. That effort endures and now boasts a 230-plus block National Register Historic District. “Native sons include Charles Kuralt and Michael Jordan,” he winked with a knowing smile. Alas, Bob no longer does his daily walking tours but is available for pre-arranged group tours. Bob Jenkins spinning a tale Merchant-class Victorian architecture dominates the airy urbanscape. Because of Wilmington’s commercial connection to Europe and isolation from the rest of the US until the Civil War, Wilmington’s affinity with Europe was then stronger than its tie with Raleigh—a mere 100 miles away. I-40 opened in the mid-90’s and nearly cut that travel time in half. For now, franchise sterilization has been mostly staved off, leaving Front Street a stolen reprieve from the corporate indenturing of America. The sleepy Dixie Grill is the front end of a vintage pool hall, and Mecca for satisfying doses of health food or tasty artery cement. Other fun dining experiences include The Basics (thebasicswilmington.com) offering Southern food with a gourmet twist, located in The Cotton Exchange (shopcottonexchange.com). Epicureans can certainly find their way to higher-end dining, but these are the places where the fun hides. Wilmington’s historic district The food and music menu is surprisingly diverse for a city that’s still actually quite isolated from the rest of North Carolina. Nightly music options include blues at the Rusty Nail, or options for Dixieland, jazz, rock, bluegrass, and folk in a variety of venues ranging from dungeonesque bar basements to breezy, outdoor brick courtyards. Halfway through a blues set at the Rusty Nail, an 80ish, white-bushbearded Jim Bath—who earned Playboy’s “Bachelor Pad of the Year” award in 1971—led me behind the bar to his shop where he was modifying scraped war ship (Iwo Jima) surgical room lamps into designer home lighting. Bath, a WWII Navy Pilot and transatlantic sailor, appeared in 50 movies since 1989, when he “settled” here. Although it would spell epic, this archetypal nomad fancies no epitaph beyond, “Recycle me as fish food.” Today, Jim has moved to different digs and no longer owns the shop, but is still a local. Narrated horse-drawn carriage ride The Barbary Coast tavern is a watering-hole icon that survived Wilmington’s facelift. A certified dog house (four and two-leg genres), the tone of this eldest bar is set by an everpresent array of canines ranging from yappers to lumbering English Mastiffs. The dungy joint has several moods. The afternoon regulars included a master portrait painter, an unemployed character actor who is, for better or worse, perpetually in character, an Irish-American Vietnam Vet and a philosophical Puerto Rican. Next came the baseball-capped laborers, followed by the late night, vintage rock aficionados. A respectful, roaring-20’s vibe pervades, and the jukebox fits every mode. Years back, a mounted cop rode inside for a photo opportunity. The tavern’s staff remains unmoved by stars dropping in from nearby Screen Gems Studios: This is one of America’s busiest film and television production towns. Recent film credits include The Conjuring, Iron Man 3, We’re the Millers, Tammy (starring Melissa McCarthy), and TV’s Under the Dome, and Revolution. Screen Gems Studios is where actor Brandon Lee met his demise in a gun accident while filming The Crow. The entire town was also the set for the Dawson’s Creek television series. Television and movie zealots will enjoy the Hollywood Location Walk of downtown locations. Also, nearby, the Cape Fear Segway company has a Hollywood themed Segway tour capefearsegway.com. As a New Yorker surrounded by struggling actors, it was bizarre to hear conversations about “extra work” and “new headshots” within earshot of gnarly shipbuilders discussing trucks in heavy southern accents. Vocational diversity makes this place tick. Wilmington has always been self-sustaining and one can forget that there are ocean beaches nearby. Wrightsville Beach is 10 miles from downtown and Carolina Beach/Kure Beach is 19 miles from downtown. Charleston and Savannah are a one-day sail. Wilmington’s Black River I opted to paddle and ponder inland into the sleepy Black River Enchanted Forest. Cruising Indian style on the tannin-tea colored Black River is a serene odyssey through swampy Cyprus forests. Kayak Carolina guide and owner Angela Pagenstecher, cruising tandem with her black lab Lucy, needled our group through a maze of the onion bulb-based trees lining the riverbank. The river has no homes or industry along its banks. The mythical, partially submerged, bent-knees root systems mystified our pilgrimage away from civilization. Kayak Carolina will pick you up in town with an option for overnight camping. It used to be that getting here was the chore. Riverside Wilmington rises up a slight hillside, 29 miles upriver from the confluence of the Cape Fear River and the Atlantic. Fear is the operative maritime term. The shifting underwater shoals, created by the mighty river’s merge with the ocean, is a chronic seafarer’s nightmare. To this day, six families of river pilots are still the reigning experts in navigating the confluence’s shifting shoals. Entering the river in a large vessel without one of them onboard is against the law. The first settlers were southern Englishmen, many without inheritance rights (traditionally entitled to the oldest brother) and nearly all apathetic toward fighting another King’s war, who sailed to the new world to exploit the region’s inexhaustible pine forests. Once ashore, they never left. Permanently turning their back on Britain, these Wilmington pioneers nurtured their revolutionary spirit in the Cape Fear Basin. The first open resistance to the enforcement of the British Stamp Acts occurred in Wilmington in 1765. North Carolina’s “Tar Heel” nickname was first coined by English businessmen able to identify local Wilmingtonians by their pine-tar-covered boot heels. Many Brits forewent visits to the land of their fortunes to avoid getting their boot heels stuck in the bountiful, multi-use sap. The Cape Fear river basin’s enormous resource of pine wood products came from the abundant Yellow Long Leaf (needle) Pine groves. WW II shipbuilding doubled Wilmington’s population and continues to support a substantial manufacturing and shipping base. During WWII, 243 battleships were built in five years. That vibrancy slipped somewhat in turbulent sixties and seventies when Merchant Marine hangouts included topless bars and a dirty bookstore… “You could shoot a cannon down Front Street and not hit anything,” reminisced Murphy, the Barbary Coast tavern’s former deputy. Usually, people make a place, and this community is blessed with goodwill. Visitors often find leaving this town is difficult. Wilmington has been reinvented to reflect its former glory and recall what it does best: Relax. * * * * * Visit GoWilmingtonAndBeaches.com or call 866-266-9690. Wilmington International Airport (flyilm.com) has service via USAir and Delta. There are scores of bed-and-breakfasts and inns to choose from. If you want a true “staying with friends” experience, a bed and breakfast emblemizing local architecture and grace is the way to go. The French House (thefrenchhouse.com) (c. 1850, Greek Revival) is on a one-way brick street of towering trees. It predates the town’s popular Victorian style with original footed bathtubs, hand-blown glass windows and wood trim. There’s also a separate, family-friendly two-bedroom cottage out back was originally the kitchen. Built by pioneer civic leader George R. French, one of Wilmington’s original residents, who owned a leather shop (boots, saddles) on Front St. The George R. French Building—a cast iron design storefront also on Historic Register. The French House Small town aficionados and music lovers will love it here. Basics: Wilmington and Beaches Convention & Visitors Bureau, (910) 341-4030, (800) 222-4757, visit@wilmingtonandbeaches.com. Kayak Carolina, kayakcarolina.com. Rusty Nail (Blues music), facebook.com/RustyNailWilmington. Hollywood Location Walk, hollywoodnc.com, Tour Old Wilmington, touroldwilmington.blogspot.com, Springbrook Farms Horsedrawn Carriage tours horsedrawntours.com, Wilmington Trolley Company, wilmingtontrolley.com. Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-08-21T14:25:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/fans-trot-toward-their-bliss http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/fans-trot-toward-their-bliss#When:18:57:05Z The recently launched Fantrotter.com is the ultimate travel site for live music and sports fans. It can also deliver you to your favorite comedian without breaking the bank. The free one-stop-shopping site lets fans check the schedule of their favorite band, team, or performer, and helps them compare the best prices and options for tickets, flights, hotels, and car rentals around the world. Enter your favorites into fantrotter.com and see where it takes you. Q&A with Fantrotter founder Mike Coletta… Q. Why did you start Fantrotter? A. It’s incredibly hard to stay up on global events that interest you, much less do all the research necessary to see what is affordable and works for your schedule. Finding and comparing the best prices on tickets, flights, hotels, car rentals; deciding on driving versus taking the train; and getting advice about the destination, such as where to eat near the venue, are all obstacles in the way of taking a life-changing trip. I started Fantrotter in order to make all of that fast and easy. We already enable you to compare prices very quickly, and in the near future, we will be adding great features, such as event discovery and alerts for your choice of bands or teams, additional transportation methods, planning trips with friends, and sharing tips with fellow fans. Q. Why should people use Fantrotter? A. The biggest fans of a band, a sports team, a comedian, or a performer can never get enough. One of the most important priorities in a fan’s life is often getting tickets for a local show or game, but for people like me, it’s also a priority to see my favorite band on the road. I want to see them in new cities and new venues and connect with new fans and friends along the way. The same can be said for fans who love to visit baseball stadiums, pig out at specialty food festivals, or attend autograph signings. It’s possible to be a fan of almost anything or anyone, and there are always events taking place around the people and things you love. I personally know countless individuals who travel for all kinds of events, and I meet more every day. Certain events are special. You know when you’re at an average concert, game, or performance versus when that event is the kind of experience you can’t wait to tell you friends about. How about when you hear about a concert where the band plays your favorite song, a song they haven’t played in years? Or that triple overtime playoff basketball game between your favorite team and its biggest rival? What if you could have been there—if you only knew that there was a special flight deal going on at that time and you could have afforded it? Q. Who’s on the Fantrotter team? A. I got the idea for Fantrotter when trying to plan a trip to see Pearl Jam last year. The research on ticket prices in various destinations in addition to all the travel research needed was taking me hours and hours. That’s when the light bulb went on, as to how I could collect and present all of this information in one simple view, and how many hours it would save me. I signed on friend and fellow globetrotter Lawrence Whiteside, a super ninja programmer and the creator of http://www.cinemasetfree.com to he,lp me build the website. I also enlisted colleagues, friends, and family, and we have come up with idea after idea to make life for the traveling fan a lot better…and this goes beyond aggregating information and comparing prices. Just recently, a bunch of us “fantrotted” to see Pearl Jam at Wrigley field in Chicago and had one of the best times of our lives. A fantrotter’s dream come true, and a perfect reminder of how great traveling for a special event can be! Fantrotter founder Mike Coletta en route to Wrigley Field with the “Fantrotter Girls” Testimonial: “I frequently travel for NY Rangers games, and I’m still waiting for an Elvis Costello comeback. So I’m no stranger to hitting the road for my favorite team or band. In this new digital age there seems to be too much information to sift through…however, Fantrotter.com makes life easy for this 50-year-old guy who still wants to rock like he’s 30 by quickly showing me what’s affordable and works for my schedule. I’m surprised that nobody thought of this sooner. I love it!” —Adam Davis, Fire Island NY For more scoop, contact Mike Coletta at . ? ? ? ? ? Northam’s recent use of Fantrotter.com… Bad Company (Paul Rodgers) at Bethel Woods, NY, a beautiful concert pavilion on the site of the 1969 Woodstock music festival The recently launched Fantrotter.com is the ultimate travel site for live music and sports fans. It can also deliver you to your favorite comedian without breaking the bank. The free one-stop-shopping site lets fans check the schedule of their favorite band, team, or performer, and helps them compare the best prices and options for tickets, flights, hotels, and car rentals around the world. Enter your favorites into fantrotter.com and see where it takes you. Q&A with Fantrotter founder Mike Coletta… Q. Why did you start Fantrotter? A. It’s incredibly hard to stay up on global events that interest you, much less do all the research necessary to see what is affordable and works for your schedule. Finding and comparing the best prices on tickets, flights, hotels, car rentals; deciding on driving versus taking the train; and getting advice about the destination, such as where to eat near the venue, are all obstacles in the way of taking a life-changing trip. I started Fantrotter in order to make all of that fast and easy. We already enable you to compare prices very quickly, and in the near future, we will be adding great features, such as event discovery and alerts for your choice of bands or teams, additional transportation methods, planning trips with friends, and sharing tips with fellow fans. Q. Why should people use Fantrotter? A. The biggest fans of a band, a sports team, a comedian, or a performer can never get enough. One of the most important priorities in a fan’s life is often getting tickets for a local show or game, but for people like me, it’s also a priority to see my favorite band on the road. I want to see them in new cities and new venues and connect with new fans and friends along the way. The same can be said for fans who love to visit baseball stadiums, pig out at specialty food festivals, or attend autograph signings. It’s possible to be a fan of almost anything or anyone, and there are always events taking place around the people and things you love. I personally know countless individuals who travel for all kinds of events, and I meet more every day. Certain events are special. You know when you’re at an average concert, game, or performance versus when that event is the kind of experience you can’t wait to tell you friends about. How about when you hear about a concert where the band plays your favorite song, a song they haven’t played in years? Or that triple overtime playoff basketball game between your favorite team and its biggest rival? What if you could have been there—if you only knew that there was a special flight deal going on at that time and you could have afforded it? Q. Who’s on the Fantrotter team? A. I got the idea for Fantrotter when trying to plan a trip to see Pearl Jam last year. The research on ticket prices in various destinations in addition to all the travel research needed was taking me hours and hours. That’s when the light bulb went on, as to how I could collect and present all of this information in one simple view, and how many hours it would save me. I signed on friend and fellow globetrotter Lawrence Whiteside, a super ninja programmer and the creator of http://www.cinemasetfree.com to he,lp me build the website. I also enlisted colleagues, friends, and family, and we have come up with idea after idea to make life for the traveling fan a lot better…and this goes beyond aggregating information and comparing prices. Just recently, a bunch of us “fantrotted” to see Pearl Jam at Wrigley field in Chicago and had one of the best times of our lives. A fantrotter’s dream come true, and a perfect reminder of how great traveling for a special event can be! Fantrotter founder Mike Coletta en route to Wrigley Field with the “Fantrotter Girls” Testimonial: “I frequently travel for NY Rangers games, and I’m still waiting for an Elvis Costello comeback. So I’m no stranger to hitting the road for my favorite team or band. In this new digital age there seems to be too much information to sift through…however, Fantrotter.com makes life easy for this 50-year-old guy who still wants to rock like he’s 30 by quickly showing me what’s affordable and works for my schedule. I’m surprised that nobody thought of this sooner. I love it!” —Adam Davis, Fire Island NY For more scoop, contact Mike Coletta at . ? ? ? ? ? Northam’s recent use of Fantrotter.com… Bad Company (Paul Rodgers) at Bethel Woods, NY, a beautiful concert pavilion on the site of the 1969 Woodstock music festival Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-07-31T18:57:05+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/surviving-new-jersey http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/surviving-new-jersey#When:15:42:26Z “When somebody moves something in your house, you notice it. When somebody moves something in the woods, I notice it.” —Tom Brown, Jr. New Jersey gets a bad rap for being an industrial wasteland. This hasn’t stopped survivalist Tom Brown from insisting that it still truly is The Garden State. Not only does Brown see food where you see weeds, his coastal New Jersey survival school is also a convenient place to learn wilderness and urban survival skills, nature awareness, the ancient art of tracking, and the Native American philosophy of connecting with the earth. Survival expert Tom Brown, Jr. What if your plane crashes and you are alone, naked in the woods? First the survival basics: shelter, water, fire, food. You learn how to build a debris hut and start a matchless fire using a self-carved bow drill. Imagine fiddling a bark-ribbon bow across an upright paper-towel holder to create an ember. You also make strong string by braiding long grasses, build dead-fall hunting traps, track animals or humans by analyzing their print pressure release, and enhance your natural awareness using wide-angle vision. There are workshops on selecting edible plants, hunting with a throwing stick and stalking—or meditating—by way of “fox walking.” The six-day standard course opens the door to dozens of advanced Tracker School courses. Tracker School students building debris huts As a child and adolescent, Brown learned these ancient skills in New Jersey’s Pine Barrens from his mentor, Stalking Wolf, a displaced Apache elder, shaman, and scout. Highly attuned to nature, the scouts were part of a secret society who refined tracking, awareness, and wilderness survival to an intense science and art form. Brown shares generations of outdoor wisdom in a continuum of profound lectures and workshops lasting up to 14 hours per day. He leads an ensemble of instructors, all graduates from his 100-plus advanced courses. Attendees graduate to be (at least) as versatile as Neanderthals with reactivated primitive sensibility, discovering uses for a knife beyond buttering. Lectures are given by Brown or his staff at the Primitive Camp in Waretown, NJ, where students sit on split-log benches balanced on stumps and arranged amphitheater style. Several workshops are outdoors, including wilderness cooking and food preservation. Students camp wherever they like in the woods. The course requires moderate physical challenge, mostly of which encompasses enduring the summer heat. The mentally demanding curriculum unearths flickers of your wild side and is not for anyone rendered miserable by camping in the rain, confronting poison ivy, or eating grub ladled out of a 10-gallon steel pot. The hearty fare, including grains and stews, is two cuts above cafeteria food, with vegetarian options. The school now has staff dedicated solely to cooking—rumor has it the chow is even better than when I took the course. Fire without matches The instructors promote hunting only as a way to eat in survival mode, and they demonstrate options without guns, such as hurling rocks and sticks and building traps. The only assault on the squeamish was an opossum-skinning demonstration that was “like pulling off a sock.” Practical survival tips include using the oil on your nose to rustproof knives, engorging a condom into a five-gallon water reservoir, and pragmatic ways to gut fish. One instructor shaved his beard with a $10 knife, noting, “You can shave with a sharpened ax.” Typically, 40 percent of the class is female. A priceless experience for any outdoor enthusiast, attendees ranged from vegetarians to hunters to hitchhiking backpackers to soul-searching millionaires. Most modern folk are aliens in the wilderness, and our ability to survive within it equals the ultimate freedom. Brown has turned tracking into an intense science and art form. I saw a paw print, he certified “a disk-fissure crest-crumble lobular pressure release.” Translation: “a strolling female fox with a full stomach who paused and looked left.” On one field trip, Brown led us along a forested trail. Within a 50-yard segment of the trail, he identified 50 tracks (left, right, or rear print) on handwritten ice-cream sticks pointing at the otherwise invisible tracks of 10 different animals. He doesn’t miss a beat in the woods. The art of camouflage The most compelling ingredient of the standard course is Brown’s passion for the Native American way of living in commune with nature. A loathing for environmental destruction burns in him. Therefore, the Tracker faculty is more than a fraternity of nomads who like sneaking up on animals. Brown is not without controversy, however. He’s the only person who can vouch for his formative-years backstory, and hasn’t provided evidence that his Apache mentor existed. But even if it is more of a parable, one point you’re supposed to take away from this experience is, and as Brown says to his students, “If you believe every word I say you are a fool, prove me right or prove me wrong.” Our final night was spent in a sweat lodge, where Brown chanted in Apache tongues, prayed for the earth, suggested we count our blessings, pardon our enemies, and invited us to seek our most productive path. The next morning, he delivered a “save mother earth” epilogue that brought tears to everyone’s eyes, including his. New York City seems to be a million miles away. Then, Brown hopped into his Hummer and drove away. ? ? ? ? ? Visit trackerschool.com Cost: $800 Where: Waretown, NJ Phone: 609 242 0350 * New Jersey standard classes May through September; six days, Sunday through Saturday. Also: Brown teaches in CA once a year. Coyote classes; six day camps for young men and women ages 8-17 are available via the Children of the Earth Foundation, 609 971 1799. Tom Brown tracking animal prints ? ? ? ? ? PS, The Apache scouts were masters of the wilderness and beginning in his early teens, Brown was called on to take those skills into the woods to track lost children, fugitives and even an escaped Bengal tiger. A frequent guest on CNN and Fox News, he advises law enforcement bureaus and trains Navy Seals on all aspects of survival. Brown also reveals the surly edge of a fed-up nature Sheriff; a sensitive, down-to-earth environmentalist periodically bringing himself to tears while reflecting on his Apache “grandfather.” Imagine John Muir a marine. Why New Jersey? Brown calls on his students to “fight on the front lines of the environmental war.” The differences, he explains, need to be made where the worst environmental crimes are being committed. He’s written 20-plus books in as many years on topics ranging from philosophy to urban survival. Stalking Wolf, an Apache elder, shaman, and scout mentored him in the skills of wilderness survival, awareness and tracking until he was 17. Brown then spent the next 10 years living in the wilderness throughout the United States without manufactured tools, perfecting these skills and teachings. Brown returned to “civilization” and was called on to track a lost person. Therein, he earned his reputation as “The Tracker” finding lost people and fugitives from the law. “When somebody moves something in your house, you notice it. When somebody moves something in the woods, I notice it.” —Tom Brown, Jr. New Jersey gets a bad rap for being an industrial wasteland. This hasn’t stopped survivalist Tom Brown from insisting that it still truly is The Garden State. Not only does Brown see food where you see weeds, his coastal New Jersey survival school is also a convenient place to learn wilderness and urban survival skills, nature awareness, the ancient art of tracking, and the Native American philosophy of connecting with the earth. Survival expert Tom Brown, Jr. What if your plane crashes and you are alone, naked in the woods? First the survival basics: shelter, water, fire, food. You learn how to build a debris hut and start a matchless fire using a self-carved bow drill. Imagine fiddling a bark-ribbon bow across an upright paper-towel holder to create an ember. You also make strong string by braiding long grasses, build dead-fall hunting traps, track animals or humans by analyzing their print pressure release, and enhance your natural awareness using wide-angle vision. There are workshops on selecting edible plants, hunting with a throwing stick and stalking—or meditating—by way of “fox walking.” The six-day standard course opens the door to dozens of advanced Tracker School courses. Tracker School students building debris huts As a child and adolescent, Brown learned these ancient skills in New Jersey’s Pine Barrens from his mentor, Stalking Wolf, a displaced Apache elder, shaman, and scout. Highly attuned to nature, the scouts were part of a secret society who refined tracking, awareness, and wilderness survival to an intense science and art form. Brown shares generations of outdoor wisdom in a continuum of profound lectures and workshops lasting up to 14 hours per day. He leads an ensemble of instructors, all graduates from his 100-plus advanced courses. Attendees graduate to be (at least) as versatile as Neanderthals with reactivated primitive sensibility, discovering uses for a knife beyond buttering. Lectures are given by Brown or his staff at the Primitive Camp in Waretown, NJ, where students sit on split-log benches balanced on stumps and arranged amphitheater style. Several workshops are outdoors, including wilderness cooking and food preservation. Students camp wherever they like in the woods. The course requires moderate physical challenge, mostly of which encompasses enduring the summer heat. The mentally demanding curriculum unearths flickers of your wild side and is not for anyone rendered miserable by camping in the rain, confronting poison ivy, or eating grub ladled out of a 10-gallon steel pot. The hearty fare, including grains and stews, is two cuts above cafeteria food, with vegetarian options. The school now has staff dedicated solely to cooking—rumor has it the chow is even better than when I took the course. Fire without matches The instructors promote hunting only as a way to eat in survival mode, and they demonstrate options without guns, such as hurling rocks and sticks and building traps. The only assault on the squeamish was an opossum-skinning demonstration that was “like pulling off a sock.” Practical survival tips include using the oil on your nose to rustproof knives, engorging a condom into a five-gallon water reservoir, and pragmatic ways to gut fish. One instructor shaved his beard with a $10 knife, noting, “You can shave with a sharpened ax.” Typically, 40 percent of the class is female. A priceless experience for any outdoor enthusiast, attendees ranged from vegetarians to hunters to hitchhiking backpackers to soul-searching millionaires. Most modern folk are aliens in the wilderness, and our ability to survive within it equals the ultimate freedom. Brown has turned tracking into an intense science and art form. I saw a paw print, he certified “a disk-fissure crest-crumble lobular pressure release.” Translation: “a strolling female fox with a full stomach who paused and looked left.” On one field trip, Brown led us along a forested trail. Within a 50-yard segment of the trail, he identified 50 tracks (left, right, or rear print) on handwritten ice-cream sticks pointing at the otherwise invisible tracks of 10 different animals. He doesn’t miss a beat in the woods. The art of camouflage The most compelling ingredient of the standard course is Brown’s passion for the Native American way of living in commune with nature. A loathing for environmental destruction burns in him. Therefore, the Tracker faculty is more than a fraternity of nomads who like sneaking up on animals. Brown is not without controversy, however. He’s the only person who can vouch for his formative-years backstory, and hasn’t provided evidence that his Apache mentor existed. But even if it is more of a parable, one point you’re supposed to take away from this experience is, and as Brown says to his students, “If you believe every word I say you are a fool, prove me right or prove me wrong.” Our final night was spent in a sweat lodge, where Brown chanted in Apache tongues, prayed for the earth, suggested we count our blessings, pardon our enemies, and invited us to seek our most productive path. The next morning, he delivered a “save mother earth” epilogue that brought tears to everyone’s eyes, including his. New York City seems to be a million miles away. Then, Brown hopped into his Hummer and drove away. ? ? ? ? ? Visit trackerschool.com Cost: $800 Where: Waretown, NJ Phone: 609 242 0350 * New Jersey standard classes May through September; six days, Sunday through Saturday. Also: Brown teaches in CA once a year. Coyote classes; six day camps for young men and women ages 8-17 are available via the Children of the Earth Foundation, 609 971 1799. Tom Brown tracking animal prints ? ? ? ? ? PS, The Apache scouts were masters of the wilderness and beginning in his early teens, Brown was called on to take those skills into the woods to track lost children, fugitives and even an escaped Bengal tiger. A frequent guest on CNN and Fox News, he advises law enforcement bureaus and trains Navy Seals on all aspects of survival. Brown also reveals the surly edge of a fed-up nature Sheriff; a sensitive, down-to-earth environmentalist periodically bringing himself to tears while reflecting on his Apache “grandfather.” Imagine John Muir a marine. Why New Jersey? Brown calls on his students to “fight on the front lines of the environmental war.” The differences, he explains, need to be made where the worst environmental crimes are being committed. He’s written 20-plus books in as many years on topics ranging from philosophy to urban survival. Stalking Wolf, an Apache elder, shaman, and scout mentored him in the skills of wilderness survival, awareness and tracking until he was 17. Brown then spent the next 10 years living in the wilderness throughout the United States without manufactured tools, perfecting these skills and teachings. Brown returned to “civilization” and was called on to track a lost person. Therein, he earned his reputation as “The Tracker” finding lost people and fugitives from the law. Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-07-10T15:42:26+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/arabian-boom-towns http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/arabian-boom-towns#When:18:10:53Z JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai (towers on far right) and Burj Khalifa (far left) Dubai, very recently a Middle Eastern desert village, is now a cutting-edge skyscraper theme park. This urban architect’s wet dream shows what a few billion hydrocarbon dollars can do as they race into the sky. It reminds me of Westhampton’s Dune Road in the 1970s, a gauche display of row upon row of can-you-top-this building design. The neighborhood called the United Arab Emirates is where neighboring Abu Dhabi is the only other place Americans can pronounce. One of seven Emirates, Dubai is one of the Gulf States that rim the Persian Gulf. Locals are called Emirati, but I didn’t meet any. The army of imported foreign workers, from engineers to concierges, makes up more than 80-percent of Dubai’s two-million residents. Under British rule until the 1960s, the seven regional inter-married tribes each carved out their own place under the sun—a sun at its mightiest. Dubai is nearby Saudi Arabia’s shopping and entertainment center, and then some. Saudis, extremely restricted in their home country, come here for naughty happy hours. Some refer to Dubai as a positive dictatorship, where families can easily afford to average four children per household, and without medical or education costs. The insane growth is impressive but doesn’t address the main reason most people live in cities: The convenience of walking to restaurants, places to purchase necessities, and neighbor’s homes. Navigating afoot among any of these skyscrapers, even neighboring ones, usually means hurdling a divided highway. Most people take cabs (very inexpensive), which often have to drive miles of access roads to deliver them across the street. Today, the city features engineered parks that overflow with lush greenery—a chore in the parched desert—but Dubai now needs sidewalks to reach them! Having always viewed malls as the optimum places to shoplift, as was my junior high school habit while in Long Island’s Roosevelt Field mall, I discovered there were much bigger and better reasons to visit Dubai’s malls: The ultimate spectacles. The Dubai Mall (thedubaimall.com) has an aquarium that’s big enough to accommodate a high school gymnasium, not to mention mammoth sharks and other gigantic sea creatures. World-class sculptures also abound, including “The Waterfall,” walls of cascading water flowing amid 50 life-sized Academy Award-like sculptures of men seemingly attempting to dive off the walls into the pools waiting below. Maybe they’ve had it with the 1,200 retail outlets. Dubai Mall’s “The Waterfall” Although the terrain is flat, it’s easy to get high here. Another thing to do while completing your shopping list is scale the world’s tallest building—it looms over The Dubai Mall. Summitting Burj Khalifa (burjkhalifa.ae) in a rocket-ship elevator—that travels the longest elevator distance in the world—your ears are sure to pop several times. Aloft above the urbanized desert, you’re sure to enjoy a cooling breeze that mutes the city scramble and substitutes a thin-air buzz. View from Burj Khalifa clouded by desert sand storm The hotels here also take reaching for the sky to another level. Dubai’s JW Marriott Marquis (jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) redefines the swank desert hotel. The tallest freestanding hotel in the world melds a diverse collection of employees from around the world to personalize the ultimate in Arabian lodging pizzazz. And there’s two of them, side by side. One tower is designed to resemble the trunk of a palm tree, and it has three world-class restaurants featuring the best of France, Thailand, and whatever kind of steak you fancy. Another indicator of the country’s unbridled growth is its exploding status as a regional and global airline hub. Dubai International Airport, with its four terminals, is the second largest and busiest in the world. One terminal is dedicated to intra-Arab travel. And, get this, nearby another larger airport is almost up and running. Dubai is a testimony to the newest phase of collective human endeavor. In a land where gas is cheaper than water, this oil-fueled prosperity means unlimited money for architectural imagination and other infrastructure improvements. Hopefully, they’re working on those sidewalks. ? ? ? ? ? My next stop was Bahrain, a Gulf State that’s not an Emirate, and where a local testified that he lived on the Arabian Gulf, not the Persian Gulf. As opposed to living atop the liquid gold, this island nation refines it and handles the region’s banking. The growth here can also be seen in the sky with its dazzling architecture, but the real mindblower is how the country is rapidly reclaiming land and expanding into the gulf. One baffling consequence of this reclaimed land is that former seaside resorts are now a mile offshore. Made up of mostly Shiite Muslims, this is home to an entrenched royal family, and the U.S. 5th Fleet. Ten-thousand coalition troops are based here, the majority being American. While Saudi Arabia extracts the oil, Bahrain refines it. Ship repair also keeps residents busy. Cultural heritage runs deep here, and there’s no better place to behold the polarizing contrast of Arab old and new than at Qal’at Al-Bahrain, a World Heritage Site of ancient ruins. While standing upon these layers of history, you can peer at the nearby upthrust of modern construction that resembles a vista of toy models. Qal’at Al-Bahrain ruins with modern Bahrain as backdrop Any questions you have about Qal’at Al-Bahrain’s successively buried civilizations are answered as the history lesson leads indoors to Bahrain’s National Museum (moc.gov.bh/en/top10/Name,7524,en.html). An architectural spectacle itself, it houses regional treasures from all of recorded history. This financial-center harbor town is also an architectural zoo, where glimmering skyscrapers seem to bend and weave with the wind. And sometimes the wind is aplenty. Blinding fog-like sandstorms can halt traffic. Those who don’t slow down in them create a sharp rise in car crashes. Bahrain’s Marriott Residence Inn staff hospitality dance When I checked in at Bahrain’s Marriott Residence Inn by Marriott, the entire staff greeted me in the lobby by doing a song and dance routine, something out of a Saturday Night Live skit, but coming straight from the heart. This genuine welcome summarizes a country of new, happily employed migrants, all ready to share their story and enhance yours. A block away and also mindfully staffed, Marriott’s Executive Apartments, their luxury extended stay brand, has 180 swank pads. The oil and financial centers of the Middle East are desert oases, where the mirage of skyscraping kingdoms is real. ? ? ? ? ? STAY AWHILE: To accommodate the overflow of imported workers in both of these rapidly emerging regions, the Marriott International’s extended stay brands, such as Residence Inn and Marriott Executive Apartments, provide lower rates for longer stays. By offering multiple bedroom apartments and suites, full kitchens and residential amenities, these brands understand the needs of these expats on the road and provide a unique experience for longer stay guests. The upper-moderate option is Residence Inn by Marriott, which provides daily housekeeping for foreign engineers and other workers with contracts requiring weeks or months abroad. These four-star lodgings cater to these workers and their relocated families to cities undergoing infrastructure overhauls. For foreign workers with contracts extending into months or years, Marriot Executive Apartments create luxurious home-away-from-home arrangements, providing weekly housekeeping and a staff that will do everything, including fulfill shopping lists. Often, Marriott positions four of its brands in one location, with JW Marriott Marquis serving at the top end. Visit marriott.com, residenceinn.com, and marriottexecutiveapartments.com. Bahrain’s Marriott Residence Inn staff with lingering dance fever JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai (towers on far right) and Burj Khalifa (far left) Dubai, very recently a Middle Eastern desert village, is now a cutting-edge skyscraper theme park. This urban architect’s wet dream shows what a few billion hydrocarbon dollars can do as they race into the sky. It reminds me of Westhampton’s Dune Road in the 1970s, a gauche display of row upon row of can-you-top-this building design. The neighborhood called the United Arab Emirates is where neighboring Abu Dhabi is the only other place Americans can pronounce. One of seven Emirates, Dubai is one of the Gulf States that rim the Persian Gulf. Locals are called Emirati, but I didn’t meet any. The army of imported foreign workers, from engineers to concierges, makes up more than 80-percent of Dubai’s two-million residents. Under British rule until the 1960s, the seven regional inter-married tribes each carved out their own place under the sun—a sun at its mightiest. Dubai is nearby Saudi Arabia’s shopping and entertainment center, and then some. Saudis, extremely restricted in their home country, come here for naughty happy hours. Some refer to Dubai as a positive dictatorship, where families can easily afford to average four children per household, and without medical or education costs. The insane growth is impressive but doesn’t address the main reason most people live in cities: The convenience of walking to restaurants, places to purchase necessities, and neighbor’s homes. Navigating afoot among any of these skyscrapers, even neighboring ones, usually means hurdling a divided highway. Most people take cabs (very inexpensive), which often have to drive miles of access roads to deliver them across the street. Today, the city features engineered parks that overflow with lush greenery—a chore in the parched desert—but Dubai now needs sidewalks to reach them! Having always viewed malls as the optimum places to shoplift, as was my junior high school habit while in Long Island’s Roosevelt Field mall, I discovered there were much bigger and better reasons to visit Dubai’s malls: The ultimate spectacles. The Dubai Mall (thedubaimall.com) has an aquarium that’s big enough to accommodate a high school gymnasium, not to mention mammoth sharks and other gigantic sea creatures. World-class sculptures also abound, including “The Waterfall,” walls of cascading water flowing amid 50 life-sized Academy Award-like sculptures of men seemingly attempting to dive off the walls into the pools waiting below. Maybe they’ve had it with the 1,200 retail outlets. Dubai Mall’s “The Waterfall” Although the terrain is flat, it’s easy to get high here. Another thing to do while completing your shopping list is scale the world’s tallest building—it looms over The Dubai Mall. Summitting Burj Khalifa (burjkhalifa.ae) in a rocket-ship elevator—that travels the longest elevator distance in the world—your ears are sure to pop several times. Aloft above the urbanized desert, you’re sure to enjoy a cooling breeze that mutes the city scramble and substitutes a thin-air buzz. View from Burj Khalifa clouded by desert sand storm The hotels here also take reaching for the sky to another level. Dubai’s JW Marriott Marquis (jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) redefines the swank desert hotel. The tallest freestanding hotel in the world melds a diverse collection of employees from around the world to personalize the ultimate in Arabian lodging pizzazz. And there’s two of them, side by side. One tower is designed to resemble the trunk of a palm tree, and it has three world-class restaurants featuring the best of France, Thailand, and whatever kind of steak you fancy. Another indicator of the country’s unbridled growth is its exploding status as a regional and global airline hub. Dubai International Airport, with its four terminals, is the second largest and busiest in the world. One terminal is dedicated to intra-Arab travel. And, get this, nearby another larger airport is almost up and running. Dubai is a testimony to the newest phase of collective human endeavor. In a land where gas is cheaper than water, this oil-fueled prosperity means unlimited money for architectural imagination and other infrastructure improvements. Hopefully, they’re working on those sidewalks. ? ? ? ? ? My next stop was Bahrain, a Gulf State that’s not an Emirate, and where a local testified that he lived on the Arabian Gulf, not the Persian Gulf. As opposed to living atop the liquid gold, this island nation refines it and handles the region’s banking. The growth here can also be seen in the sky with its dazzling architecture, but the real mindblower is how the country is rapidly reclaiming land and expanding into the gulf. One baffling consequence of this reclaimed land is that former seaside resorts are now a mile offshore. Made up of mostly Shiite Muslims, this is home to an entrenched royal family, and the U.S. 5th Fleet. Ten-thousand coalition troops are based here, the majority being American. While Saudi Arabia extracts the oil, Bahrain refines it. Ship repair also keeps residents busy. Cultural heritage runs deep here, and there’s no better place to behold the polarizing contrast of Arab old and new than at Qal’at Al-Bahrain, a World Heritage Site of ancient ruins. While standing upon these layers of history, you can peer at the nearby upthrust of modern construction that resembles a vista of toy models. Qal’at Al-Bahrain ruins with modern Bahrain as backdrop Any questions you have about Qal’at Al-Bahrain’s successively buried civilizations are answered as the history lesson leads indoors to Bahrain’s National Museum (moc.gov.bh/en/top10/Name,7524,en.html). An architectural spectacle itself, it houses regional treasures from all of recorded history. This financial-center harbor town is also an architectural zoo, where glimmering skyscrapers seem to bend and weave with the wind. And sometimes the wind is aplenty. Blinding fog-like sandstorms can halt traffic. Those who don’t slow down in them create a sharp rise in car crashes. Bahrain’s Marriott Residence Inn staff hospitality dance When I checked in at Bahrain’s Marriott Residence Inn by Marriott, the entire staff greeted me in the lobby by doing a song and dance routine, something out of a Saturday Night Live skit, but coming straight from the heart. This genuine welcome summarizes a country of new, happily employed migrants, all ready to share their story and enhance yours. A block away and also mindfully staffed, Marriott’s Executive Apartments, their luxury extended stay brand, has 180 swank pads. The oil and financial centers of the Middle East are desert oases, where the mirage of skyscraping kingdoms is real. ? ? ? ? ? STAY AWHILE: To accommodate the overflow of imported workers in both of these rapidly emerging regions, the Marriott International’s extended stay brands, such as Residence Inn and Marriott Executive Apartments, provide lower rates for longer stays. By offering multiple bedroom apartments and suites, full kitchens and residential amenities, these brands understand the needs of these expats on the road and provide a unique experience for longer stay guests. The upper-moderate option is Residence Inn by Marriott, which provides daily housekeeping for foreign engineers and other workers with contracts requiring weeks or months abroad. These four-star lodgings cater to these workers and their relocated families to cities undergoing infrastructure overhauls. For foreign workers with contracts extending into months or years, Marriot Executive Apartments create luxurious home-away-from-home arrangements, providing weekly housekeeping and a staff that will do everything, including fulfill shopping lists. Often, Marriott positions four of its brands in one location, with JW Marriott Marquis serving at the top end. Visit marriott.com, residenceinn.com, and marriottexecutiveapartments.com. Bahrain’s Marriott Residence Inn staff with lingering dance fever Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-06-28T18:10:53+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-jekyll-hyde-club http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-jekyll-hyde-club#When:21:03:10Z Bella putting on her game face for a pedal into spooky Times Square Unless theater-going, most New Yorkers avoid Times Square. Expecting a sightseer glut, I was taken by West 44th Street’s The Jekyll & Hyde Club Restaurant, as was my eight-year-old daughter, Bella. This museum of comedic horror lets your imagination, and your kids, roam freely. Great food aside, watching your child exchange dialogue with a talking sphinx, gargoyle, wolf, mummy, statue of David, or elephant makes the visit worthwhile (let the receptionist know your child’s name and the “voice” will take it from there). Their mouths move in sync with the individual voices that are broadcast throughout the restaurant. Bella’s conversation with the sphinx, whose head outsized a refrigerator, set the stage for two hours of non-stop entertainment. The Jekyll & Hyde Club’s sarcastic shark Naughty Jekyll fled London in 1931 and sought refuge in New York. His dimly lit private “club,” as it’s called, replicates the New York underground frozen in 1931. Hence, the ongoing late-1920s and early 1930’s music soundtrack, which includes French-Russian gypsy music. You can experience many curious things simply sitting at your table—a roving palm reader, plotting mad scientists—but it will take a few laps around the multi-tiered space to notice creepy things like the human brains, lizards, and baby Komodo dragons floating in glass jars of formaldehyde. There’s also no shortage of shrunken heads, human skulls and full skeletons hanging around. The Jekyll & Hyde Club’s chatty Ravenhill Twins If you can find your way into and out of the tricky, bookcase-burrowed restrooms, note the always evolving, illuminated paintings lining the walls. They gradually morph from classic period portraits to ghoulish representations of the afterlife. For me, Times Square’s haunted corner recalls a Transylvanian take on the Upper East Side’s Explorer’s Club, a memorabilia showcase and meeting place for classic global adventurers. Though I’m sure management can’t certify this, with one “guarded” exit/entrance, kids can safely explore this multi-room space on their own while you continue dining or otherwise. The entryway is a gift shop and pictorial museum all its own. And, if you need more assurance, any staff who are not in-character are happy to show kids around this vocal puppet and statue odyssey. The bigger-than-life Frankenstein awakening takes center stage about every two hours, and makes kids stare in wonder. I stared too. The steakhouse-caliber menu, which includes kid’s favorites like Mac N Cheese, is complemented by signature cocktails including Death by Poison and the Kiss of Death. Yum. Many adults roamed around with cocktails-in-hand. While roaming solo, from afar, I saw Bella having a discussion with the Anatomical Man, a skinned head upon a skinless torso. The limb-free humorist coaxed Bella into helping him find a date in the venue, which put her in the midst of some fun moments with other customers. Date arranged, the Anatomical Man then suggested that Bella locate a few of his vital organs, with each one lighting up as she touched it. The Jekyll & Hyde Club’s personable elephant Before leaving, Bella’s dialogue with the talking life-sized elephant got another corner of the restaurant chuckling. The staff, many of whom remain in character, also provide random laughs. Despite calling the palm-reader “a fake,” Bella loved it here. I recommend it to everyone, with or without kids. It’s the ultimate Manhattan restaurant solution to any type of lousy weather. It’s also a chance to experience a sinister but humorous Londoner’s take on a social club that’s still tuned into 1931. When you leave, you’ll have to readjust to Times Square. ? ? ? ? ? Jekyll & Hyde Club 216 W44th St. NY NY JEKYLLANDHYDECLUB.COM Go when it’s not busy and extend your hang time—call to find out when: 212-869-HYDE The Jekyll & Hyde Club’s emotional Elephant Man Bella putting on her game face for a pedal into spooky Times Square Unless theater-going, most New Yorkers avoid Times Square. Expecting a sightseer glut, I was taken by West 44th Street’s The Jekyll & Hyde Club Restaurant, as was my eight-year-old daughter, Bella. This museum of comedic horror lets your imagination, and your kids, roam freely. Great food aside, watching your child exchange dialogue with a talking sphinx, gargoyle, wolf, mummy, statue of David, or elephant makes the visit worthwhile (let the receptionist know your child’s name and the “voice” will take it from there). Their mouths move in sync with the individual voices that are broadcast throughout the restaurant. Bella’s conversation with the sphinx, whose head outsized a refrigerator, set the stage for two hours of non-stop entertainment. The Jekyll & Hyde Club’s sarcastic shark Naughty Jekyll fled London in 1931 and sought refuge in New York. His dimly lit private “club,” as it’s called, replicates the New York underground frozen in 1931. Hence, the ongoing late-1920s and early 1930’s music soundtrack, which includes French-Russian gypsy music. You can experience many curious things simply sitting at your table—a roving palm reader, plotting mad scientists—but it will take a few laps around the multi-tiered space to notice creepy things like the human brains, lizards, and baby Komodo dragons floating in glass jars of formaldehyde. There’s also no shortage of shrunken heads, human skulls and full skeletons hanging around. The Jekyll & Hyde Club’s chatty Ravenhill Twins If you can find your way into and out of the tricky, bookcase-burrowed restrooms, note the always evolving, illuminated paintings lining the walls. They gradually morph from classic period portraits to ghoulish representations of the afterlife. For me, Times Square’s haunted corner recalls a Transylvanian take on the Upper East Side’s Explorer’s Club, a memorabilia showcase and meeting place for classic global adventurers. Though I’m sure management can’t certify this, with one “guarded” exit/entrance, kids can safely explore this multi-room space on their own while you continue dining or otherwise. The entryway is a gift shop and pictorial museum all its own. And, if you need more assurance, any staff who are not in-character are happy to show kids around this vocal puppet and statue odyssey. The bigger-than-life Frankenstein awakening takes center stage about every two hours, and makes kids stare in wonder. I stared too. The steakhouse-caliber menu, which includes kid’s favorites like Mac N Cheese, is complemented by signature cocktails including Death by Poison and the Kiss of Death. Yum. Many adults roamed around with cocktails-in-hand. While roaming solo, from afar, I saw Bella having a discussion with the Anatomical Man, a skinned head upon a skinless torso. The limb-free humorist coaxed Bella into helping him find a date in the venue, which put her in the midst of some fun moments with other customers. Date arranged, the Anatomical Man then suggested that Bella locate a few of his vital organs, with each one lighting up as she touched it. The Jekyll & Hyde Club’s personable elephant Before leaving, Bella’s dialogue with the talking life-sized elephant got another corner of the restaurant chuckling. The staff, many of whom remain in character, also provide random laughs. Despite calling the palm-reader “a fake,” Bella loved it here. I recommend it to everyone, with or without kids. It’s the ultimate Manhattan restaurant solution to any type of lousy weather. It’s also a chance to experience a sinister but humorous Londoner’s take on a social club that’s still tuned into 1931. When you leave, you’ll have to readjust to Times Square. ? ? ? ? ? Jekyll & Hyde Club 216 W44th St. NY NY JEKYLLANDHYDECLUB.COM Go when it’s not busy and extend your hang time—call to find out when: 212-869-HYDE The Jekyll & Hyde Club’s emotional Elephant Man Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-06-21T21:03:10+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/best-of-the-old-new-york-times http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/best-of-the-old-new-york-times#When:15:35:47Z Whenever I pass New York City’s Tenement Museum, I feel nostalgic. Although I’ve never been inside the museum, my first apartment (50th St and 11th Ave, mid-1980s) WAS a tenement. The five-story walk-up came complete with a pull-chain toilet and a handheld shower head that was used while sitting in the bathtub. The tub, of course, was located in the kitchen. The creaky hallway floors and stairs had hammock-like sways, and the obstructed view of the Hudson River was accented by coiled razor-wire meant to prevent us from jumping onto the roof of a now razed car dealership. Our family farm was potted pine trees that struggled on the fire escape. Eleventh Avenue was a 24-hour parade of bikini-clad hookers, who never seemed to suffer winter’s chill (apparently, crack cocaine numbs). The price was certainly right for a pad in Hell’s Kitchen: $270/month divided by three brothers (for rent, not prostitutes). What does $90 buy today? A few tickets to the Tenement Museum… The Brothers Northam ? ? ? ? ? Okay, I’m digging deeper into the regional nostalgia… If I could blitz the U.S. with air-dropped leaflets, they would urge: Pack a small bag, march outside, wander into a different neighborhood, ask strangers questions. Faithfully beholding this tactic—anywhere and everywhere—turned most of my life into a working vacation. But first I had to wrestle the establishment to earn a few lessons. “You’re in a world of trouble.” —Tony Matueza, Hempstead golf course greenskeeper My first income involved petty theft. As an eight-year-old living across the street from the Hempstead golf course driving range, I was motivated by the pro shops’ nickel per ball return policy. The pilfering ring began with me forking over balls I had coaxed through the fence using long sticks. The thieving matured into midday, fence-hopping sprints onto the driving range to load as many balls as possible into the belly of my shirt and then bounding back over the rusted eight-foot chain-link fence using the free arm not securing the loot. Older brother initiations aside, this authority-pursued one-armed banditry shaped my earliest adrenaline rushes. Ball burglary was only a symptom of the recreational terrorism my two older brothers and I routinely enjoyed inside those suburban-liberating golf course fences. We’d camp overnight, buried deep in the courses’ leaf piles, sled year-round on anything descending, and spend hours clinging to soaring tree tops. In an early stride of independence, I constructed and maintained my own treehouse in a lumbering white pine to spy on a sport I’d never fancy. When the dreaded greenskeeper finally captured me red-handed heisting balls on the driving range, he drove me in his supply-laden golf cart onto the street and into my driveway. As we walked up to my front door, his chunky claw still clutching my arm, he threatened, “You’re in a world of trouble.” After citing abundant crimes to my mother, he remanded me to her custody and left me to ponder a troubled planet. Skip to now, as the insatiably propagandizing news media continues fanning that world of trouble myth (my mom let me off the hook and didn’t tell dad), my 130-country search for words to live by reconfirmed that we actually reside on a very friendly planet. The greenskeeper was wrong. Suggestion: Wave that finger to the dismissive powers that be. Don’t let the bruising 24-hour news cycle, generic travel warnings, or your fear of the unknown limit your scope of the world. Heed the common sense revealed by unlikely sages in far-flung places, and just down the road from you. My quest for understanding was an American detour away from the ill-advised gloom and reprimands of crotchety teachers, two-faced politicians, headline-starved news media, and whoever else we’re better off avoiding. It’s never too late to have a happy childhood.  ? ? ? ? ? Kalahari Bushman: A reliable source for upbeat advice ? ? ? ? ? “Inspector of snowstorms.” —Henry David Thoreau’s self-appointed title   Whenever I pass New York City’s Tenement Museum, I feel nostalgic. Although I’ve never been inside the museum, my first apartment (50th St and 11th Ave, mid-1980s) WAS a tenement. The five-story walk-up came complete with a pull-chain toilet and a handheld shower head that was used while sitting in the bathtub. The tub, of course, was located in the kitchen. The creaky hallway floors and stairs had hammock-like sways, and the obstructed view of the Hudson River was accented by coiled razor-wire meant to prevent us from jumping onto the roof of a now razed car dealership. Our family farm was potted pine trees that struggled on the fire escape. Eleventh Avenue was a 24-hour parade of bikini-clad hookers, who never seemed to suffer winter’s chill (apparently, crack cocaine numbs). The price was certainly right for a pad in Hell’s Kitchen: $270/month divided by three brothers (for rent, not prostitutes). What does $90 buy today? A few tickets to the Tenement Museum… The Brothers Northam ? ? ? ? ? Okay, I’m digging deeper into the regional nostalgia… If I could blitz the U.S. with air-dropped leaflets, they would urge: Pack a small bag, march outside, wander into a different neighborhood, ask strangers questions. Faithfully beholding this tactic—anywhere and everywhere—turned most of my life into a working vacation. But first I had to wrestle the establishment to earn a few lessons. “You’re in a world of trouble.” —Tony Matueza, Hempstead golf course greenskeeper My first income involved petty theft. As an eight-year-old living across the street from the Hempstead golf course driving range, I was motivated by the pro shops’ nickel per ball return policy. The pilfering ring began with me forking over balls I had coaxed through the fence using long sticks. The thieving matured into midday, fence-hopping sprints onto the driving range to load as many balls as possible into the belly of my shirt and then bounding back over the rusted eight-foot chain-link fence using the free arm not securing the loot. Older brother initiations aside, this authority-pursued one-armed banditry shaped my earliest adrenaline rushes. Ball burglary was only a symptom of the recreational terrorism my two older brothers and I routinely enjoyed inside those suburban-liberating golf course fences. We’d camp overnight, buried deep in the courses’ leaf piles, sled year-round on anything descending, and spend hours clinging to soaring tree tops. In an early stride of independence, I constructed and maintained my own treehouse in a lumbering white pine to spy on a sport I’d never fancy. When the dreaded greenskeeper finally captured me red-handed heisting balls on the driving range, he drove me in his supply-laden golf cart onto the street and into my driveway. As we walked up to my front door, his chunky claw still clutching my arm, he threatened, “You’re in a world of trouble.” After citing abundant crimes to my mother, he remanded me to her custody and left me to ponder a troubled planet. Skip to now, as the insatiably propagandizing news media continues fanning that world of trouble myth (my mom let me off the hook and didn’t tell dad), my 130-country search for words to live by reconfirmed that we actually reside on a very friendly planet. The greenskeeper was wrong. Suggestion: Wave that finger to the dismissive powers that be. Don’t let the bruising 24-hour news cycle, generic travel warnings, or your fear of the unknown limit your scope of the world. Heed the common sense revealed by unlikely sages in far-flung places, and just down the road from you. My quest for understanding was an American detour away from the ill-advised gloom and reprimands of crotchety teachers, two-faced politicians, headline-starved news media, and whoever else we’re better off avoiding. It’s never too late to have a happy childhood.  ? ? ? ? ? Kalahari Bushman: A reliable source for upbeat advice ? ? ? ? ? “Inspector of snowstorms.” —Henry David Thoreau’s self-appointed title   Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-05-29T15:35:47+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-classic-pocono-mountains http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-classic-pocono-mountains#When:17:16:21Z Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort. Photo by Joyce Bambach A few corners of the Pocono Mountain region earned a tacky reputation for honeymoon hotels with heart-shaped beds and mirrors on the ceiling. That stereotype is wiped clean by old-style class when you roll into Shawnee-on-Delaware, a quaint village on the Pennsylvania side of the Delaware Water Gap. The riverside Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort is only 70 miles west of the George Washington Bridge—but it stages a comforting, bygone era that’s far removed from New York City’s anxious pace. The Pocono Mountains region is home to rolling mountain terrain, waterfalls, inviting woodlands, and 170 miles of clean rivers. The historic Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort overlooks the pristine Delaware River and is in the midst of Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. This river valley had been evacuated via eminent domain for a hydroelectric dam, but the silty soil makeup scraped the project and the watershed area was instead declared parkland in 1978. So, there’s a variety of scenic outdoor activities right on your doorstep, including kayaking, canoeing, rafting, biking, hiking, and fishing—something for everyone. Shawnee Inn’s lobby Opened in 1911 in the style of other Northeast U.S. grand hotels, it’s a piano-player-in-the-lobby sort of place. But before you even step inside, a sagely bellman named Alder shares tales of visits by President Eisenhower, Bob Hope, and Ed Sullivan. Historic photos line every spacious hallway that lead to 80 guest rooms. If all the space and grandeur is too overwhelming, you can escape into the ping pong room, or cozy brewpub. There are two wonderful dining options that don’t require driving. Within the inn, the River Room overlooks their golf course and several massive maple trees giving birth to syrup, with copious sap bags hanging from their trunks. While enjoying the impressive cuisine in a casual atmosphere, the River Room often hosts live music. When I dined, they featured Pete Begley, a talented man playing “The Stick,” a 12-string guitar neck without a body that’s fretted with all 10 fingers. Deftly played, The Stick sounds like a four-piece band. While entertaining, Begley also calmly chats as he visits various guests’ tables. A five-minute walk across the manicured resort grounds brings you to the Gem and Keystone Brewpub, home of ShawneeCraft Artisanal beers, which are crafted onsite. Both menus features local produce, all natural meats, PA farm-stand cheeses, and sustainable seafood. gemandkeystone.com. After dinner, stroll a few more minutes down the tree-lined street to the charming 193-seat Shawnee Playhouse, which features inspired, year-round professional theatre—and a gigantic fireplace. theshawneeplayhouse.com. Shawnee Playhouse Shawnee Mountain is a ten minute drive from the inn. The winter season offers 25 skiable acres, 23 trails, Pennsylvania’s newest high-speed quad lift, two terrain parks, a snow tubing park and 100-percent snowmaking. But as the seasons change, so do the mountain’s offerings. From May through November, visitors can enjoy eight special outdoor events, including a Celtic Festival, a mud run, and a one-of-a-kind Garlic Festival, shawneemt.com. Last but not least, the Shawnee Inn is a great place to golf. Arnold Palmer met his wife here in the same era that Jackie Gleason learned how to golf on their 27-hole riverside course. Before heading back to New York City’s car alarm circus, I got a deep tissue massage at Spa Shawnee—talk about a fast track to inner peace. This rustic-yet-luxurious getaway is where romantic couples and families can chill out together, or not. ? ? ? ? ? * The Shawnee Inn is 70 miles from New York City. Call 570.424.4000 or visit shawneeinn.com. ? ? ? ? ? Any time of year is a great time to visit the Pocono Mountains, which spans 2,400 square miles—the size of Delaware. Spring and summer invite active travelers to explore 260 miles of hiking and biking trails, 35 golf courses, whitewater rafting, boating, fishing, and open access to nine state and two national parks. Winters invite visitors to ski, snowboard, snow tube, or snowshoe through snowy (natural or made) wonderlands encompassing 165 ski trails. The region teems with history-infused cultural events, theatre, art exhibitions, antiquing, and cuisine—or you can simply sleep in. A full calendar of festivals showcasing the heritage, music, and food of the region is on http://www.800poconos.com/events Even .the most discerning traveler will find comfortable lodgings in the Pocono Mountains, which offers an eclectic mix of luxury hotels, distinctive boutique properties, and quaint, family-run bed and breakfasts. Visit 800poconos.com. * From Manhattan’s lovely Port Authority, Martz Trailways has regular service to the region, martztrailways.com. ? ? ? ? ? The Shawnee Inn owners, the Kirwood family, have an impressive legacy of doing humanitarian work worldwide. Charlie and Ginny Kirkwood met in Turkey where Ginny was serving in the Peace Corps. Later, Mrs. Kirkwood went on to found Thailand’s first Special Olympics program. Their daughter and son-in-law started the Shawnee International Health and Development LCC, an organization that empowers volunteers to advance their experience in international aide and development. Shawnee Inn on the Delaware River Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort. Photo by Joyce Bambach A few corners of the Pocono Mountain region earned a tacky reputation for honeymoon hotels with heart-shaped beds and mirrors on the ceiling. That stereotype is wiped clean by old-style class when you roll into Shawnee-on-Delaware, a quaint village on the Pennsylvania side of the Delaware Water Gap. The riverside Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort is only 70 miles west of the George Washington Bridge—but it stages a comforting, bygone era that’s far removed from New York City’s anxious pace. The Pocono Mountains region is home to rolling mountain terrain, waterfalls, inviting woodlands, and 170 miles of clean rivers. The historic Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort overlooks the pristine Delaware River and is in the midst of Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. This river valley had been evacuated via eminent domain for a hydroelectric dam, but the silty soil makeup scraped the project and the watershed area was instead declared parkland in 1978. So, there’s a variety of scenic outdoor activities right on your doorstep, including kayaking, canoeing, rafting, biking, hiking, and fishing—something for everyone. Shawnee Inn’s lobby Opened in 1911 in the style of other Northeast U.S. grand hotels, it’s a piano-player-in-the-lobby sort of place. But before you even step inside, a sagely bellman named Alder shares tales of visits by President Eisenhower, Bob Hope, and Ed Sullivan. Historic photos line every spacious hallway that lead to 80 guest rooms. If all the space and grandeur is too overwhelming, you can escape into the ping pong room, or cozy brewpub. There are two wonderful dining options that don’t require driving. Within the inn, the River Room overlooks their golf course and several massive maple trees giving birth to syrup, with copious sap bags hanging from their trunks. While enjoying the impressive cuisine in a casual atmosphere, the River Room often hosts live music. When I dined, they featured Pete Begley, a talented man playing “The Stick,” a 12-string guitar neck without a body that’s fretted with all 10 fingers. Deftly played, The Stick sounds like a four-piece band. While entertaining, Begley also calmly chats as he visits various guests’ tables. A five-minute walk across the manicured resort grounds brings you to the Gem and Keystone Brewpub, home of ShawneeCraft Artisanal beers, which are crafted onsite. Both menus features local produce, all natural meats, PA farm-stand cheeses, and sustainable seafood. gemandkeystone.com. After dinner, stroll a few more minutes down the tree-lined street to the charming 193-seat Shawnee Playhouse, which features inspired, year-round professional theatre—and a gigantic fireplace. theshawneeplayhouse.com. Shawnee Playhouse Shawnee Mountain is a ten minute drive from the inn. The winter season offers 25 skiable acres, 23 trails, Pennsylvania’s newest high-speed quad lift, two terrain parks, a snow tubing park and 100-percent snowmaking. But as the seasons change, so do the mountain’s offerings. From May through November, visitors can enjoy eight special outdoor events, including a Celtic Festival, a mud run, and a one-of-a-kind Garlic Festival, shawneemt.com. Last but not least, the Shawnee Inn is a great place to golf. Arnold Palmer met his wife here in the same era that Jackie Gleason learned how to golf on their 27-hole riverside course. Before heading back to New York City’s car alarm circus, I got a deep tissue massage at Spa Shawnee—talk about a fast track to inner peace. This rustic-yet-luxurious getaway is where romantic couples and families can chill out together, or not. ? ? ? ? ? * The Shawnee Inn is 70 miles from New York City. Call 570.424.4000 or visit shawneeinn.com. ? ? ? ? ? Any time of year is a great time to visit the Pocono Mountains, which spans 2,400 square miles—the size of Delaware. Spring and summer invite active travelers to explore 260 miles of hiking and biking trails, 35 golf courses, whitewater rafting, boating, fishing, and open access to nine state and two national parks. Winters invite visitors to ski, snowboard, snow tube, or snowshoe through snowy (natural or made) wonderlands encompassing 165 ski trails. The region teems with history-infused cultural events, theatre, art exhibitions, antiquing, and cuisine—or you can simply sleep in. A full calendar of festivals showcasing the heritage, music, and food of the region is on http://www.800poconos.com/events Even .the most discerning traveler will find comfortable lodgings in the Pocono Mountains, which offers an eclectic mix of luxury hotels, distinctive boutique properties, and quaint, family-run bed and breakfasts. Visit 800poconos.com. * From Manhattan’s lovely Port Authority, Martz Trailways has regular service to the region, martztrailways.com. ? ? ? ? ? The Shawnee Inn owners, the Kirwood family, have an impressive legacy of doing humanitarian work worldwide. Charlie and Ginny Kirkwood met in Turkey where Ginny was serving in the Peace Corps. Later, Mrs. Kirkwood went on to found Thailand’s first Special Olympics program. Their daughter and son-in-law started the Shawnee International Health and Development LCC, an organization that empowers volunteers to advance their experience in international aide and development. Shawnee Inn on the Delaware River Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-04-30T17:16:21+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/dont-judge-your-rivals http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/dont-judge-your-rivals#When:16:01:49Z Brad Olsen and Bruce Northam in Big Sky, Montana Time away from wherever we call home allows us to reassess our lives without the routines. When two travelers meet, another kind of pattern emerges, and it usually results in extended storylines. I’ve ventured with author Brad Olsen far and wide. Of all the ramblers who should end up as comrades and book-publishing partners, we were destined to meet. Despite being on parallel rookie-author missions and in the midst of a heated competition, our paths collided at a trade show. Both of us had quit our day jobs, traveled around the world in our 20s, and then wrote similar books about dropping out but staying relevant. My book, The Frugal Globetrotter, and Brad’s World Stompers were simultaneously published in 1996. Promoting our new paperbacks, we first crossed paths at a 1995 Chicago book trade show—a New Yorker and a Californian eyeing each other tentatively across a gulf of common pursuits. Two years later, we met again while on assignment in Austria. After a hike in the Alps, we found ourselves in Salzburg’s St. Peter’s Cathedral for a service spoken entirely in German. Without understanding beyond a few words, we still encountered something indescribably moving. Afterwards, a walkabout in which we paused on a footbridge spanning the Salzach River gave birth to our 1999 anthology, In Search of Adventure. “Pops the top off objective travel writing…Lives up to the adage that travel writers fear boredom more than death.”—Time International ? ? ? ? ? Oliver Stone lauded Brad’s first book, World Stompers, a “subversive masterpiece of travel writing.” ? ? ? ? ? Brad’s eighth book, Future Esoteric: The Unseen Realms, seeks to stretch the bounds of reality by means of an alternative narrative. There is nothing under the sun he doesn’t explore, from UFOs to free energy, from the secret space program to underground bases, from cryptozoology to looking at different ways we can challenge the many problems facing the human race. In other words, anything esoteric. Listen to Brad discuss the title via this “Coast to Coast” (start at 1:18:50). ? ? ? ? ? Another foray with Brad took me north from Chicago, across Canada, and then into Montana, ultimately landing in the Nevada desert for the 2001 Burning Man festival. This anything-goes phenomenon has become the largest outdoor-arts festival in North America. It polarizes people to label it either an epic, radical counter-culture inclusion, or just an excuse to get buzzed and naked in public. We did both. No Gentle Ride, Man —U-Haul “Gentle-Ride Van” revised with black tape at Burning Man, Black Rock City, Nevada “Commando crashing, sir.” —Brad Olsen’s response to a Winnipeg, Canada, police inquest about our illegal city-park campsite (while he was researching “Sacred Places” across Canada). ? ? ? ? ? As Brad has reminded me, there’s no competition when you use your entire heart… Inspired by Burning Man, Brad co-founded The How Weird Street Faire. Held annually in San Francisco, CA, it’s the oldest electronic music festival on the west coast. He started the event in 2000 as a small block party, and it has now grown to attract more than 15,000 people a year. This annual April gathering (April 28 in 2013) encourages party-goers to wear costumes and be more than just spectators, howweird.org. Needless to say, Brad is a busy guy… bradolsen.com cccpublishing.com esotericseries.com stompers.com peacetour.org BRAD OLSEN gained the distinction of being an “award-winning travel writer” when his travel guide, Sacred Places North America: 108 Destinations, won the Bay Area Travel Writers top honor for the “2010 Best Travel Book for the Planet Earth” category, and again in 2013 when his latest book “Future Esoteric” won the top prize in the category of “New Age.” Brad’s first book, World Stompers: A Global Travel Manifesto, is now in its fifth edition. He also published The Tribes of Burning Man. Brad Olsen and Bruce Northam in Big Sky, Montana Time away from wherever we call home allows us to reassess our lives without the routines. When two travelers meet, another kind of pattern emerges, and it usually results in extended storylines. I’ve ventured with author Brad Olsen far and wide. Of all the ramblers who should end up as comrades and book-publishing partners, we were destined to meet. Despite being on parallel rookie-author missions and in the midst of a heated competition, our paths collided at a trade show. Both of us had quit our day jobs, traveled around the world in our 20s, and then wrote similar books about dropping out but staying relevant. My book, The Frugal Globetrotter, and Brad’s World Stompers were simultaneously published in 1996. Promoting our new paperbacks, we first crossed paths at a 1995 Chicago book trade show—a New Yorker and a Californian eyeing each other tentatively across a gulf of common pursuits. Two years later, we met again while on assignment in Austria. After a hike in the Alps, we found ourselves in Salzburg’s St. Peter’s Cathedral for a service spoken entirely in German. Without understanding beyond a few words, we still encountered something indescribably moving. Afterwards, a walkabout in which we paused on a footbridge spanning the Salzach River gave birth to our 1999 anthology, In Search of Adventure. “Pops the top off objective travel writing…Lives up to the adage that travel writers fear boredom more than death.”—Time International ? ? ? ? ? Oliver Stone lauded Brad’s first book, World Stompers, a “subversive masterpiece of travel writing.” ? ? ? ? ? Brad’s eighth book, Future Esoteric: The Unseen Realms, seeks to stretch the bounds of reality by means of an alternative narrative. There is nothing under the sun he doesn’t explore, from UFOs to free energy, from the secret space program to underground bases, from cryptozoology to looking at different ways we can challenge the many problems facing the human race. In other words, anything esoteric. Listen to Brad discuss the title via this “Coast to Coast” (start at 1:18:50). ? ? ? ? ? Another foray with Brad took me north from Chicago, across Canada, and then into Montana, ultimately landing in the Nevada desert for the 2001 Burning Man festival. This anything-goes phenomenon has become the largest outdoor-arts festival in North America. It polarizes people to label it either an epic, radical counter-culture inclusion, or just an excuse to get buzzed and naked in public. We did both. No Gentle Ride, Man —U-Haul “Gentle-Ride Van” revised with black tape at Burning Man, Black Rock City, Nevada “Commando crashing, sir.” —Brad Olsen’s response to a Winnipeg, Canada, police inquest about our illegal city-park campsite (while he was researching “Sacred Places” across Canada). ? ? ? ? ? As Brad has reminded me, there’s no competition when you use your entire heart… Inspired by Burning Man, Brad co-founded The How Weird Street Faire. Held annually in San Francisco, CA, it’s the oldest electronic music festival on the west coast. He started the event in 2000 as a small block party, and it has now grown to attract more than 15,000 people a year. This annual April gathering (April 28 in 2013) encourages party-goers to wear costumes and be more than just spectators, howweird.org. Needless to say, Brad is a busy guy… bradolsen.com cccpublishing.com esotericseries.com stompers.com peacetour.org BRAD OLSEN gained the distinction of being an “award-winning travel writer” when his travel guide, Sacred Places North America: 108 Destinations, won the Bay Area Travel Writers top honor for the “2010 Best Travel Book for the Planet Earth” category, and again in 2013 when his latest book “Future Esoteric” won the top prize in the category of “New Age.” Brad’s first book, World Stompers: A Global Travel Manifesto, is now in its fifth edition. He also published The Tribes of Burning Man. Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-04-23T16:01:49+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/new-york-travel-festival http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/new-york-travel-festival#When:22:49:00Z Bohemian National Hall ballroom Not all travelers are alike, yet consumer travel shows continue to have a one-size-fits-all model with booths, brochures and freebies. For today’s young, tech-savvy urbanites who are already seeing the world, the inaugural New York Travel Festival will offer a needed change of scenery by reinventing the consumer travel show. Scheduled for Saturday and Sunday, April 20-21, this weekend event will combine lively interactive talks on different facets of travel, destination and activity displays, and jaunts out in New York City’s various boroughs. On opening day, April 20, the festival begins at 9 a.m. at Bohemian National Hall, 321 East 73rd Street. This historic Upper East Side venue will feature a who’s who of travel experts, conducting lively panels discussions, a game show and breakout sessions that will go beyond lecturing. Andrew Evans, National Geographic’s Digital Nomad, will deliver the keynote address. Other scheduled guests include: – Lee Abbamonte, the youngest American to visit every country on earth; – Valarie D’Elia, host of NY1’s “Travel with Val”; – ‘Nomadic’ Matt Kepnes, author of How to Travel the World on $50 a Day: Travel Cheaper, Longer, Smarter; – Chef Marc Murphy, judge on Food Network’s ‘Chopped’ – Robert Reid, Lonely Planet’s U.S. travel editor; and – Alison Wright, award-winning photographer. On opening day, April 20, the festival begins at 9 a.m. with lively panels and breakout sessions inside Bohemian National Hall, 321 East 73rd Street. This historic Upper East Side venue will host a who’s who of travel experts, in panel discussions that will go beyond lecturing. Offerings include debates, a game show, tastings, workshops, and other interactive elements. Breakout sessions will focus on local/regional travel, as well as five niches: Adventure & Outdoor; Cultural; Food & Wine; Gay & Lesbian and Responsible & Eco/Sustainable. There will also be an on-site cooking class available to VIP ticket holders. On April 21, Sunday’s portion will allow participants to go on a variety of tours, tastings and other activities organized by an assortment of established tour companies, neighborhoods and BIDs. Scott’s Pizza Tours, Urban Oyster, and Turnstile Tours are some of the itinerary providers included in this year’s Festival. Tickets are $40 for Saturday only (not including lunch, which is $15 in advance, $20 on-site), $75 for a weekend package until the festival (includes admission to Saturday’s event and one tour for Sunday. VIP Packages are available for $150 and include a three-course cooking class with Chef Pierre Thiam (seen on Iron Chef) on 4/20 and an exclusive Mexican Cultural Experience on 4/21. Doors will open for Saturday’s event at 8:00 a.m., with the program running from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. For more information, visit http://nytravfest.com. ? ? ? ? ? About New York Travel Festival: Produced by RW Social, the New York Travel Festival reinvents the concept of the consumer travel show. Designed for younger, tech-savvy urbanites, the two-day festival will open at the Bohemian National Hall with panel discussions and break out sessions. The second day will involve various scheduled tours and activities in select neighborhoods in and around New York City. Visit http://nytravfest.com. Bohemian National Hall ballroom Not all travelers are alike, yet consumer travel shows continue to have a one-size-fits-all model with booths, brochures and freebies. For today’s young, tech-savvy urbanites who are already seeing the world, the inaugural New York Travel Festival will offer a needed change of scenery by reinventing the consumer travel show. Scheduled for Saturday and Sunday, April 20-21, this weekend event will combine lively interactive talks on different facets of travel, destination and activity displays, and jaunts out in New York City’s various boroughs. On opening day, April 20, the festival begins at 9 a.m. at Bohemian National Hall, 321 East 73rd Street. This historic Upper East Side venue will feature a who’s who of travel experts, conducting lively panels discussions, a game show and breakout sessions that will go beyond lecturing. Andrew Evans, National Geographic’s Digital Nomad, will deliver the keynote address. Other scheduled guests include: – Lee Abbamonte, the youngest American to visit every country on earth; – Valarie D’Elia, host of NY1’s “Travel with Val”; – ‘Nomadic’ Matt Kepnes, author of How to Travel the World on $50 a Day: Travel Cheaper, Longer, Smarter; – Chef Marc Murphy, judge on Food Network’s ‘Chopped’ – Robert Reid, Lonely Planet’s U.S. travel editor; and – Alison Wright, award-winning photographer. On opening day, April 20, the festival begins at 9 a.m. with lively panels and breakout sessions inside Bohemian National Hall, 321 East 73rd Street. This historic Upper East Side venue will host a who’s who of travel experts, in panel discussions that will go beyond lecturing. Offerings include debates, a game show, tastings, workshops, and other interactive elements. Breakout sessions will focus on local/regional travel, as well as five niches: Adventure & Outdoor; Cultural; Food & Wine; Gay & Lesbian and Responsible & Eco/Sustainable. There will also be an on-site cooking class available to VIP ticket holders. On April 21, Sunday’s portion will allow participants to go on a variety of tours, tastings and other activities organized by an assortment of established tour companies, neighborhoods and BIDs. Scott’s Pizza Tours, Urban Oyster, and Turnstile Tours are some of the itinerary providers included in this year’s Festival. Tickets are $40 for Saturday only (not including lunch, which is $15 in advance, $20 on-site), $75 for a weekend package until the festival (includes admission to Saturday’s event and one tour for Sunday. VIP Packages are available for $150 and include a three-course cooking class with Chef Pierre Thiam (seen on Iron Chef) on 4/20 and an exclusive Mexican Cultural Experience on 4/21. Doors will open for Saturday’s event at 8:00 a.m., with the program running from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. For more information, visit http://nytravfest.com. ? ? ? ? ? About New York Travel Festival: Produced by RW Social, the New York Travel Festival reinvents the concept of the consumer travel show. Designed for younger, tech-savvy urbanites, the two-day festival will open at the Bohemian National Hall with panel discussions and break out sessions. The second day will involve various scheduled tours and activities in select neighborhoods in and around New York City. Visit http://nytravfest.com. Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-04-18T22:49:00+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/bethel-maine-100-years-of-hospitality http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/bethel-maine-100-years-of-hospitality#When:17:06:06Z In 1913, The Bethel Inn in Bethel, Maine opened to much acclaim as did New York’s Grand Central Station, The Dodger’s Ebbets Field, the first drive-up gas station and the Lincoln Highway, the nation’s first paved coast to coast highway. Thanks to a Long Island native, the Bethel Inn is flourishing and is celebrating its 100th year of hospitality. Early in the last century, The Bethel Inn catered to the “out-patients” of Dr. John George Gehring, whose therapy included psychiatric treatment along with a strenuous physical workload including tending the inn’s gardens and building its golf course. Wealthy clientele of the Bethel Inn and the Gehring Clinic included members of the Sears, Bingham and Vanderbilt families who came to restore their bodies and psyches in the clear, cool Maine mountain air. They came with steamer trunks and the household help staying 2-3 months at a time. The first decade of operation saw the addition of four guest buildings, the lake house and the installation of central heating and an electric elevator. During the 30’s and 40’s, the Bethel Inn made an attempt to stay open in the winter and struggled to stay afloat after the death of Dr. Gehring. Thanks to subsidies from Gehring’s wealthy client William Bingham and his friends the inn managed to stay afloat. Vacation habits changed after WW II and into the 50’s and 60’s. With the demise of the upper class 2-3 month vacation and rise of the middle class week-long vacation, the inn continued to struggle despite the addition of private bathrooms, an outdoor swimming pool, the completion of a regulation nine-hole golf course, and the opening of Sunday River Ski Way. In 1976, the Bingham Trustees sold to a partnership in hopes of a grand turnaround. The new owners were unsuccessful and closed the inn’s doors in 1979. In 1979, Richard Rasor, an advertising executive at J. Walter Thompson who made the daily commute from Garden City to New York, purchased the inn for $450,000. Although an abrupt change from urban and corporate life, Rasor was no stranger to hospitality management as he lived in the Garden City Hotel where his father was Vice Chairman of the Knott Corporation which owned hotels across the globe. Rasor came up against an energy crisis the first summer followed by a snowless winter. Determined not to fail and using his marketing skills, Rasor along with his friend and business colleague from Sunday River Ski Way trucked snow to Boston Common generating “snowy” media coverage throughout the Northeast. To this day, skiers flock to Sunday River for reliable snow and the Bethel Inn Resort for New England hospitality. By the late 80’s, business stabilized and Rasor built a conference center, expanded the golf course to an 18-hole championship course, built 40 townhouse condominiums adjacent to the fairways, and a health club with year-round outdoor heated pool. The 90’s saw green energy initiatives, a 16 guest room/luxury suite addition to the main inn, and the launch of the Guaranteed Performance School of Golf. The 21st century brought the development of 13 fairway condominiums bringing the total guest room count to 150. The Bethel Inn Resort expanded its vacation options to include the Family Golf School, Road Scholar Alpine and Nordic Ski Weeks, New England Couples Golf Championship, Maine Comedy Festival, Ghosts and Gravestones Weekend, and the Fall Festival Pro-am Golf Tournament.  To celebrate its 100th year The Bethel Inn Resort is offering a Centennial package for $100 per person including accommodations, full breakfast, and a four-course dinner every Thursday through Saturday nights during April, an appropriate month as 1913 was also the ratification of the 16th amendment authorizing the income tax.    The Bethel Inn Resort located on the Common in Bethel’s National Historic District. The District is home to the Moses Mason House Period Museum. Part of the Bethel Historical Society (www.bethelhistorical.org), The Moses Mason House built in 1813 is celebrating its 200th birthday. The Bethel Historical Society is sponsoring a special exhibit focusing on the Inn’s early years under Dr. Gehring. The resort is open year-round. The resort’s 200 acres includes an 18-hole championship golf course in summer and 40-kilometer cross country ski center in winter, an inn with a formal dining room and tavern, library, large common room, health club with a year-round heated outdoor pool, saunas and spa facility, conference center, and lake house. Recreation and activities in this western Maine region include canoeing and kayaking on the Androscoggin River, and hiking on over two dozen trails in the Mahoosuc Range including a section of the Appalachian Trail. The Upper Androscoggin River is emerging as one of New England’s destination trout fisheries and home to several drift boat guides (www.upperandro.com).  Rock and gem hunting are great family activities. This region of western Maine is famed for its deposits of tourmaline, garnet, amethyst and other precious stones. Winter in Bethel brings skiing and snowboarding at Sunday River Ski Resort (www.sundayriver.com) and Mt Abram Family Ski Area (www.mtabram.com), cross country skiing, snowmobiling and dog sledding. ? ? ? ? ? * Check into the Bethel Inn via 800-654-0125 or www.bethelinn.com. Throughout April, their $100 per person Centennial package includes accommodations, full breakfast, and a four-course dinner every Thursday through Saturday. * For Bethel area info, visit www.bethelmaine.com. In 1913, The Bethel Inn in Bethel, Maine opened to much acclaim as did New York’s Grand Central Station, The Dodger’s Ebbets Field, the first drive-up gas station and the Lincoln Highway, the nation’s first paved coast to coast highway. Thanks to a Long Island native, the Bethel Inn is flourishing and is celebrating its 100th year of hospitality. Early in the last century, The Bethel Inn catered to the “out-patients” of Dr. John George Gehring, whose therapy included psychiatric treatment along with a strenuous physical workload including tending the inn’s gardens and building its golf course. Wealthy clientele of the Bethel Inn and the Gehring Clinic included members of the Sears, Bingham and Vanderbilt families who came to restore their bodies and psyches in the clear, cool Maine mountain air. They came with steamer trunks and the household help staying 2-3 months at a time. The first decade of operation saw the addition of four guest buildings, the lake house and the installation of central heating and an electric elevator. During the 30’s and 40’s, the Bethel Inn made an attempt to stay open in the winter and struggled to stay afloat after the death of Dr. Gehring. Thanks to subsidies from Gehring’s wealthy client William Bingham and his friends the inn managed to stay afloat. Vacation habits changed after WW II and into the 50’s and 60’s. With the demise of the upper class 2-3 month vacation and rise of the middle class week-long vacation, the inn continued to struggle despite the addition of private bathrooms, an outdoor swimming pool, the completion of a regulation nine-hole golf course, and the opening of Sunday River Ski Way. In 1976, the Bingham Trustees sold to a partnership in hopes of a grand turnaround. The new owners were unsuccessful and closed the inn’s doors in 1979. In 1979, Richard Rasor, an advertising executive at J. Walter Thompson who made the daily commute from Garden City to New York, purchased the inn for $450,000. Although an abrupt change from urban and corporate life, Rasor was no stranger to hospitality management as he lived in the Garden City Hotel where his father was Vice Chairman of the Knott Corporation which owned hotels across the globe. Rasor came up against an energy crisis the first summer followed by a snowless winter. Determined not to fail and using his marketing skills, Rasor along with his friend and business colleague from Sunday River Ski Way trucked snow to Boston Common generating “snowy” media coverage throughout the Northeast. To this day, skiers flock to Sunday River for reliable snow and the Bethel Inn Resort for New England hospitality. By the late 80’s, business stabilized and Rasor built a conference center, expanded the golf course to an 18-hole championship course, built 40 townhouse condominiums adjacent to the fairways, and a health club with year-round outdoor heated pool. The 90’s saw green energy initiatives, a 16 guest room/luxury suite addition to the main inn, and the launch of the Guaranteed Performance School of Golf. The 21st century brought the development of 13 fairway condominiums bringing the total guest room count to 150. The Bethel Inn Resort expanded its vacation options to include the Family Golf School, Road Scholar Alpine and Nordic Ski Weeks, New England Couples Golf Championship, Maine Comedy Festival, Ghosts and Gravestones Weekend, and the Fall Festival Pro-am Golf Tournament.  To celebrate its 100th year The Bethel Inn Resort is offering a Centennial package for $100 per person including accommodations, full breakfast, and a four-course dinner every Thursday through Saturday nights during April, an appropriate month as 1913 was also the ratification of the 16th amendment authorizing the income tax.    The Bethel Inn Resort located on the Common in Bethel’s National Historic District. The District is home to the Moses Mason House Period Museum. Part of the Bethel Historical Society (www.bethelhistorical.org), The Moses Mason House built in 1813 is celebrating its 200th birthday. The Bethel Historical Society is sponsoring a special exhibit focusing on the Inn’s early years under Dr. Gehring. The resort is open year-round. The resort’s 200 acres includes an 18-hole championship golf course in summer and 40-kilometer cross country ski center in winter, an inn with a formal dining room and tavern, library, large common room, health club with a year-round heated outdoor pool, saunas and spa facility, conference center, and lake house. Recreation and activities in this western Maine region include canoeing and kayaking on the Androscoggin River, and hiking on over two dozen trails in the Mahoosuc Range including a section of the Appalachian Trail. The Upper Androscoggin River is emerging as one of New England’s destination trout fisheries and home to several drift boat guides (www.upperandro.com).  Rock and gem hunting are great family activities. This region of western Maine is famed for its deposits of tourmaline, garnet, amethyst and other precious stones. Winter in Bethel brings skiing and snowboarding at Sunday River Ski Resort (www.sundayriver.com) and Mt Abram Family Ski Area (www.mtabram.com), cross country skiing, snowmobiling and dog sledding. ? ? ? ? ? * Check into the Bethel Inn via 800-654-0125 or www.bethelinn.com. Throughout April, their $100 per person Centennial package includes accommodations, full breakfast, and a four-course dinner every Thursday through Saturday. * For Bethel area info, visit www.bethelmaine.com. Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-03-26T17:06:06+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/fertility-simplifiedand-life-begun-at-50 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/fertility-simplifiedand-life-begun-at-50#When:15:42:42Z I know a few American couples who nearly waged war as a result of their difficulties conceiving children. For some, the solution was guided by Confucian simplicity. Manhattan’s Chinatown is not usually a place to encounter professional non-Chinese couples in search of baby magic, but such a pair led me into the hearts of the infertile pining for children. They spend thousands, often tens of thousands, of dollars on tests and hi-tech fertility procedures. Meanwhile, the numerous childless couples getting pregnant after adopting suggests that anticipatory stress hinders baby-making. A couple I know, then in their early 40s, nearly went bankrupt running the obligatory course of tests and hi-tech prayers until they were referred to a Chinese herbal practitioner, Dr. Zhang, who spoke very little English and is not a “doctor” by western standards. At that time, he operated out of a simple one-room space in the heart of New York City’s Chinatown, which then resembled the back streets of Canton. One wall was lined with drawers containing roots, leaves, and tree barks. An assistant, who didn’t speak any English, hovered near the doctor’s room, which was really an alcove separated by a sheet. There were no appointments. First come, first served. On their debut appointment, Dr. Zhang held the woman’s wrist while taking her pulse in different places, examined her tongue, and then studied her face, all the while scribbling a page full of Chinese characters. Twenty minutes later, he passed the page to his assistant on the other side of the sheet, who then started rummaging in the drawers, grabbing and mixing. The couple left with six shopping bags of herbal tea for less than $40, which the woman drank three times a day. The couple asked what they should do if they ran out of ingredients, and the doctor said, “You be pregnant, you be pregnant,” and waved them off. It tasted like a bitter coffee-tea mixture. As promised, she was pregnant within a month. This was even more surprising given that she had spent the previous year seeing a renowned fertility doctor. It was the same fertility specialist who had helped Celine Dion conceive. Unfortunately, the woman hadn’t been so lucky. She was told there was nothing he could do because she couldn’t hold an egg. Given the context, Zhang’s $40 seemed pretty reasonable. And, a year later she was pregnant again—strong medicine! This goes some way to explain why there are 1.35 billion people in China. Even the aforementioned couple’s gynecologist now refers patients to Chinatown. In that same year, the couple—and the fertility specialist—referred dozens of other couples, also in their early 40s and devastated by in-vitro fertilization failures, to this herbal doctor. For sure, 10 of them were soon pregnant. Alas, a decade later, Zhang relocated a few times to swankier Chinatown locations and has replaced roots and leaves with more manageable powders. Today, as he sits at his desk, dozens of thick binders bulge with baby pictures behind him. Dr. Fu Zhang, 381 Broadway, Suite 205, (212) 966-6015 ? ? ? ? ? Confucius: Life Begins at 50 Empathy is contagious. Confucius lived for 72 years until 479BC. His principles, which included nurturing intelligence without educational perks based on economics, good behavior, and respecting your parents have had an immense impact on Chinese culture from 300 years after his death until now. Confucian thinking is a philosophy, not a religion. Ignored during his lifetime, Confucius’s ideas were institutionalized as a governing philosophy until the 1911 Communist takeover. Communism didn’t jive with Confucianism, but more than 2,500 years of dedication to his practical, moral doctrines continues encouraging devotees to stick to his humane ideology—and that legal action implies an incapacity to negotiate. As it turns out, needless but profitable lawsuit terrorism has become a black eye on the American way of life. Prior to his 50th year, Confucius had only held several insignificant government posts, a possible recipe for going postal. Enlightened at 50—and fed up with his local government—he set off on a 17-year trek from Chinese town to town, offering unsolicited advice to rulers about governing better. Sort of like Newt Gingrich, but making sense. Although he was occasionally jailed for unsanctioned preaching, Confucius accomplished his mission. Better later than never. Confucianism rejects the idea that conduct should be enforced by a rigid code of law, and that respect should flow upward. If Confucius toured across America today, we’d have a new reality show making waves. Confucius fans turn up in the oddest places. While floating down Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River on a relocated German Rhine River cruiser, I befriended an elderly Italian opera singer. With images of Buddha everywhere, she noted that Buddha bailed on his wife and kid—out of necessity. Remember, no attachments were necessary to hasten the path to Nirvana. Then the Italian diva suggested that “Confucius, who believed that the family was the center of everything, was a nicer man than Buddha.” ? ? ? ? ? Today, the world’s most populous country needs Confucian intuition more than ever. One echo of China’s one child per family rule—established in the 1970s to control population—is a society where six people, including the grandparents, raise one kid. What would Confucius say about an entire nation of brats nurtured by only child syndrome? The Only Child Syndrome Band Ps, turning 60 is another cause for celebration in many Asian cultures. It marks the timeline where one has experienced all 12 signs of the zodiac (Horse, Rooster, Tiger, Rat, etc.) in each of the five elements (air, earth, iron, water and wood). And yes, in today’s America, 60 is still sexy. ? ? ? ? ? “Baby Maybe?!” —Comedian, George Carlin’s brand name suggestion for a birth control product “Ten years ago we sell all our snakes to China. So now we have many more rats. The rats are very tasty.” —Tour guide, during float down Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River I know a few American couples who nearly waged war as a result of their difficulties conceiving children. For some, the solution was guided by Confucian simplicity. Manhattan’s Chinatown is not usually a place to encounter professional non-Chinese couples in search of baby magic, but such a pair led me into the hearts of the infertile pining for children. They spend thousands, often tens of thousands, of dollars on tests and hi-tech fertility procedures. Meanwhile, the numerous childless couples getting pregnant after adopting suggests that anticipatory stress hinders baby-making. A couple I know, then in their early 40s, nearly went bankrupt running the obligatory course of tests and hi-tech prayers until they were referred to a Chinese herbal practitioner, Dr. Zhang, who spoke very little English and is not a “doctor” by western standards. At that time, he operated out of a simple one-room space in the heart of New York City’s Chinatown, which then resembled the back streets of Canton. One wall was lined with drawers containing roots, leaves, and tree barks. An assistant, who didn’t speak any English, hovered near the doctor’s room, which was really an alcove separated by a sheet. There were no appointments. First come, first served. On their debut appointment, Dr. Zhang held the woman’s wrist while taking her pulse in different places, examined her tongue, and then studied her face, all the while scribbling a page full of Chinese characters. Twenty minutes later, he passed the page to his assistant on the other side of the sheet, who then started rummaging in the drawers, grabbing and mixing. The couple left with six shopping bags of herbal tea for less than $40, which the woman drank three times a day. The couple asked what they should do if they ran out of ingredients, and the doctor said, “You be pregnant, you be pregnant,” and waved them off. It tasted like a bitter coffee-tea mixture. As promised, she was pregnant within a month. This was even more surprising given that she had spent the previous year seeing a renowned fertility doctor. It was the same fertility specialist who had helped Celine Dion conceive. Unfortunately, the woman hadn’t been so lucky. She was told there was nothing he could do because she couldn’t hold an egg. Given the context, Zhang’s $40 seemed pretty reasonable. And, a year later she was pregnant again—strong medicine! This goes some way to explain why there are 1.35 billion people in China. Even the aforementioned couple’s gynecologist now refers patients to Chinatown. In that same year, the couple—and the fertility specialist—referred dozens of other couples, also in their early 40s and devastated by in-vitro fertilization failures, to this herbal doctor. For sure, 10 of them were soon pregnant. Alas, a decade later, Zhang relocated a few times to swankier Chinatown locations and has replaced roots and leaves with more manageable powders. Today, as he sits at his desk, dozens of thick binders bulge with baby pictures behind him. Dr. Fu Zhang, 381 Broadway, Suite 205, (212) 966-6015 ? ? ? ? ? Confucius: Life Begins at 50 Empathy is contagious. Confucius lived for 72 years until 479BC. His principles, which included nurturing intelligence without educational perks based on economics, good behavior, and respecting your parents have had an immense impact on Chinese culture from 300 years after his death until now. Confucian thinking is a philosophy, not a religion. Ignored during his lifetime, Confucius’s ideas were institutionalized as a governing philosophy until the 1911 Communist takeover. Communism didn’t jive with Confucianism, but more than 2,500 years of dedication to his practical, moral doctrines continues encouraging devotees to stick to his humane ideology—and that legal action implies an incapacity to negotiate. As it turns out, needless but profitable lawsuit terrorism has become a black eye on the American way of life. Prior to his 50th year, Confucius had only held several insignificant government posts, a possible recipe for going postal. Enlightened at 50—and fed up with his local government—he set off on a 17-year trek from Chinese town to town, offering unsolicited advice to rulers about governing better. Sort of like Newt Gingrich, but making sense. Although he was occasionally jailed for unsanctioned preaching, Confucius accomplished his mission. Better later than never. Confucianism rejects the idea that conduct should be enforced by a rigid code of law, and that respect should flow upward. If Confucius toured across America today, we’d have a new reality show making waves. Confucius fans turn up in the oddest places. While floating down Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River on a relocated German Rhine River cruiser, I befriended an elderly Italian opera singer. With images of Buddha everywhere, she noted that Buddha bailed on his wife and kid—out of necessity. Remember, no attachments were necessary to hasten the path to Nirvana. Then the Italian diva suggested that “Confucius, who believed that the family was the center of everything, was a nicer man than Buddha.” ? ? ? ? ? Today, the world’s most populous country needs Confucian intuition more than ever. One echo of China’s one child per family rule—established in the 1970s to control population—is a society where six people, including the grandparents, raise one kid. What would Confucius say about an entire nation of brats nurtured by only child syndrome? The Only Child Syndrome Band Ps, turning 60 is another cause for celebration in many Asian cultures. It marks the timeline where one has experienced all 12 signs of the zodiac (Horse, Rooster, Tiger, Rat, etc.) in each of the five elements (air, earth, iron, water and wood). And yes, in today’s America, 60 is still sexy. ? ? ? ? ? “Baby Maybe?!” —Comedian, George Carlin’s brand name suggestion for a birth control product “Ten years ago we sell all our snakes to China. So now we have many more rats. The rats are very tasty.” —Tour guide, during float down Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-03-13T15:42:42+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/a-tale-of-two-moscows http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/a-tale-of-two-moscows#When:20:02:10Z Since the 1991 Soviet Union collapse, Moscow has evolved into a bewildering contradiction of lingering Communist-era hangovers and upmarket chic. Russia Comedian Yury Nikulin I begin with The End, among Moscow’s tombs. Hundreds of Russia’s most famous artistic, literary, musical, and political figures are buried in Novodevichy Cemetery. On this stirring stroll through Russian history, I discovered that this hall-of-fame memorial collection stages not just gravestones but row upon row of elaborate images and sculptures depicting the buried legends in telling poses. Famed comedian Yury Nikulin relaxes with his dog, while the ex-presidents’ monuments portray less lighthearted souls. I roamed into the realm of the living, where the Russian winds of change are personified by the nightlife. Two joints blew me away. The first, Petrovitch, is a 1970’s Soviet-era themed club with kitschy Cold War propaganda. The menu, hearkening back to the Iron Curtain, includes superpower snacks like Chicken Kiev, pelmenis (Russian dumplings), and borsht soup. Dining here eventually gives way to customers dancing in the aisles to disco-era pop tunes, both Russian and American. The characteristic dour-by-day but then party-all-night Russian persona goes on full display. It’s dance fever, redefined. Moscovites celebrate the night like they’ve won something, and the vodka flows. Be wary though, as sometimes a little palm greasing is required to enter such clubs. Models advertising cigarettes at Rai Nightclub The other joint, Rai Nightclub (Heaven), picks up where Studio 54 left off. Moscow’s DJs are hot properties across Europe and the U.K. these days, and Rai’s DJ spun a thousand glammed-out dancers into ecstasy. I haven’t waited in line to enter a dance club for decades—I’d rather eat glass—but this was worthwhile, as it was like visiting another planet. Face controllers, their term for dreadfully serious doormen, decide which Muscovites get into this mega-thumping Gaudi-esque disco with a jungle motif. Don your stylin’ shoes. Rai Nightclub The nightclub bling was readily outdone inside the Kremlin fortress where the Diamond Fund showcases a thousand pounds of diamonds in a million fantastical incarnations, not to mention the gold nuggets bigger than basketballs. Also found in the Kremlin, the Armory Museum is a mind-blowing collection of extravagant ambassadorial gifts, colossal thrones, and gemstone-studded horse-drawn carriages dating back to the 1600s. This is ground zero for Russia’s crown jewels and treasures of Russian Tzars—a gigantic wow. St. Basel Cathedral My quest for culture continued with a trip to the ballet. France and Russia share bragging rights for bringing this art form to the world stage. At the Bolshoi Theatre, a famous 18th-century icon for ballet, I caught “La Sylphide.” The plot involves a man marrying a woman before eventually staring up a flirtation with another woman. In due course, he is murdered for his transgression. Lesson? Behave yourself. There are two Bolshois, the famous grand theatre and the “baby” Bolshoi, which brings to mind New York’s Beacon Theatre. When it’s time to find a place to rest your head, Moscow delivers with a bevy of new boutique hotels. The MaMaison Pokrovka Suite Hotel echoes a lavish, private home where there’s a balance of functional, chic furnishings and fine art, hence the hotel’s name, MaMaison, or my house. Moscow’s first all-suite hotel merges cutting-edge spaces, rousing art, and gourmet fusions beneath one roof. Designed to be green and for those interested in an extended stay, the 84 luxurious, fully equipped suites all have kitchenettes. Each suite features a different layout, view, variety of wooden parquet floors, pastel colors, and natural light. The lobbies on each floor also flaunt high-design furniture and sculpture, while floor-to-ceiling photography by famed Czech photographer Št?pán Hon enlivens every hallway. Hon creates a chronological photographic installation that’s a local history lesson evolving by floor. Photographs tell a story of the circle of Russian life, starting with the birth of a baby who grows up (floor by floor), has children, and eventually becomes a grandparent. Numbers Chef Said Faddlie At MaMaison Pokrovka, you’ll be nourished by culinary master, Said Faddlie, a Moroccan native previously adapted to mingling his French-Moroccan and Asian cuisine finesse with premium Russian tastes. For 10 years, he was chef at Rasputin, a renowned Russian restaurant and night club in Brooklyn. His goal is for customers to “be satisfied not only food-wise, but with an overall warm atmosphere and unparalleled service.” The swank décor flows into Faddlie’s voguish Art Deco restaurant, Numbers, where signature dishes include Chilean sea bass with honey, porcini soup, and pheasant soup. The exquisite feasting space includes a summer terrace, an I’m-so-trendy-I-hurt-myself bar lounge, and a cigar bar. MaMaison’s Algotherm Spa is Russia’s first world-class spa within a hotel. It offers an equally enticing menu. Created in 1962, the Algotherm brand introduced algae as a fountain of youth. Visit pokrovka-moscow.com. The Kremlin, Red Square and Bolshoi Theater are within a 20-minute walk from MaMaison. While the ghosts of communism live side-by-side with the budding flowers of choice, one thing is for sure—you’ll want to discover Moscow for yourself. * * * * * Delta offers the most year-round U.S. service to Moscow from New York. Visit delta.com. “Measure (think) seven times, then cut (do).” —Unofficial Russian tailor maxim Since the 1991 Soviet Union collapse, Moscow has evolved into a bewildering contradiction of lingering Communist-era hangovers and upmarket chic. Russia Comedian Yury Nikulin I begin with The End, among Moscow’s tombs. Hundreds of Russia’s most famous artistic, literary, musical, and political figures are buried in Novodevichy Cemetery. On this stirring stroll through Russian history, I discovered that this hall-of-fame memorial collection stages not just gravestones but row upon row of elaborate images and sculptures depicting the buried legends in telling poses. Famed comedian Yury Nikulin relaxes with his dog, while the ex-presidents’ monuments portray less lighthearted souls. I roamed into the realm of the living, where the Russian winds of change are personified by the nightlife. Two joints blew me away. The first, Petrovitch, is a 1970’s Soviet-era themed club with kitschy Cold War propaganda. The menu, hearkening back to the Iron Curtain, includes superpower snacks like Chicken Kiev, pelmenis (Russian dumplings), and borsht soup. Dining here eventually gives way to customers dancing in the aisles to disco-era pop tunes, both Russian and American. The characteristic dour-by-day but then party-all-night Russian persona goes on full display. It’s dance fever, redefined. Moscovites celebrate the night like they’ve won something, and the vodka flows. Be wary though, as sometimes a little palm greasing is required to enter such clubs. Models advertising cigarettes at Rai Nightclub The other joint, Rai Nightclub (Heaven), picks up where Studio 54 left off. Moscow’s DJs are hot properties across Europe and the U.K. these days, and Rai’s DJ spun a thousand glammed-out dancers into ecstasy. I haven’t waited in line to enter a dance club for decades—I’d rather eat glass—but this was worthwhile, as it was like visiting another planet. Face controllers, their term for dreadfully serious doormen, decide which Muscovites get into this mega-thumping Gaudi-esque disco with a jungle motif. Don your stylin’ shoes. Rai Nightclub The nightclub bling was readily outdone inside the Kremlin fortress where the Diamond Fund showcases a thousand pounds of diamonds in a million fantastical incarnations, not to mention the gold nuggets bigger than basketballs. Also found in the Kremlin, the Armory Museum is a mind-blowing collection of extravagant ambassadorial gifts, colossal thrones, and gemstone-studded horse-drawn carriages dating back to the 1600s. This is ground zero for Russia’s crown jewels and treasures of Russian Tzars—a gigantic wow. St. Basel Cathedral My quest for culture continued with a trip to the ballet. France and Russia share bragging rights for bringing this art form to the world stage. At the Bolshoi Theatre, a famous 18th-century icon for ballet, I caught “La Sylphide.” The plot involves a man marrying a woman before eventually staring up a flirtation with another woman. In due course, he is murdered for his transgression. Lesson? Behave yourself. There are two Bolshois, the famous grand theatre and the “baby” Bolshoi, which brings to mind New York’s Beacon Theatre. When it’s time to find a place to rest your head, Moscow delivers with a bevy of new boutique hotels. The MaMaison Pokrovka Suite Hotel echoes a lavish, private home where there’s a balance of functional, chic furnishings and fine art, hence the hotel’s name, MaMaison, or my house. Moscow’s first all-suite hotel merges cutting-edge spaces, rousing art, and gourmet fusions beneath one roof. Designed to be green and for those interested in an extended stay, the 84 luxurious, fully equipped suites all have kitchenettes. Each suite features a different layout, view, variety of wooden parquet floors, pastel colors, and natural light. The lobbies on each floor also flaunt high-design furniture and sculpture, while floor-to-ceiling photography by famed Czech photographer Št?pán Hon enlivens every hallway. Hon creates a chronological photographic installation that’s a local history lesson evolving by floor. Photographs tell a story of the circle of Russian life, starting with the birth of a baby who grows up (floor by floor), has children, and eventually becomes a grandparent. Numbers Chef Said Faddlie At MaMaison Pokrovka, you’ll be nourished by culinary master, Said Faddlie, a Moroccan native previously adapted to mingling his French-Moroccan and Asian cuisine finesse with premium Russian tastes. For 10 years, he was chef at Rasputin, a renowned Russian restaurant and night club in Brooklyn. His goal is for customers to “be satisfied not only food-wise, but with an overall warm atmosphere and unparalleled service.” The swank décor flows into Faddlie’s voguish Art Deco restaurant, Numbers, where signature dishes include Chilean sea bass with honey, porcini soup, and pheasant soup. The exquisite feasting space includes a summer terrace, an I’m-so-trendy-I-hurt-myself bar lounge, and a cigar bar. MaMaison’s Algotherm Spa is Russia’s first world-class spa within a hotel. It offers an equally enticing menu. Created in 1962, the Algotherm brand introduced algae as a fountain of youth. Visit pokrovka-moscow.com. The Kremlin, Red Square and Bolshoi Theater are within a 20-minute walk from MaMaison. While the ghosts of communism live side-by-side with the budding flowers of choice, one thing is for sure—you’ll want to discover Moscow for yourself. * * * * * Delta offers the most year-round U.S. service to Moscow from New York. Visit delta.com. “Measure (think) seven times, then cut (do).” —Unofficial Russian tailor maxim Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-03-01T20:02:10+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/cabos-dead-end-springs-to-life http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/cabos-dead-end-springs-to-life#When:18:14:05Z Often, resorts insulate guests from the true jewels of a destination, but Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa sits in Cabo’s geologic marvel jewel. Spectacular roaring Pacific Oceanfront aside, the towering orange-sandstone Moab-style rock formations surrounding this place make your jaw drop—before the hiking starts. Stones-throw from this guilty pleasure getaway is a hike option between jutting 200-foot-high surf-sprayed cliffs to a private narrow hallway of a beach, which then invites you over rock formation to discover famous Divorce Beach, via its back door. Divorce Beach, for those who remember the original (1968) Planet of the Apes, is where Charlton Heston tragically stumbled upon the mostly buried and irrelevant Statue of Liberty. For those who never saw that flick, imagine this: five-star digs on the literal southern tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula in the midst of what should be a natural World Heritage Site. My guilt about staying in a new resort that must have displaced some of Baja California Sur’s wildlife was eased when a few sea turtles came marching my way. Any remorse about blowing my budget that wasn’t eased by the options afforded by my sweetly-appointed room’s full kitchen was evaporated by two incomparable infinity-pool bars. There’s just something about sipping a cocktail chest-deep in water between Mars rock museum pieces and fierce, aqua-blue waves. While touristy downtown Cabo San Lucas is only a ten minute walk, I couldn’t stop peering from the pool bar up at the Presidential Suite that’s the first to rival the opulence I’ve beheld only in the Kingdom of Brunei. Then, a Tequila Sommelier appears armed with an arsenal of brands, limes, and lore…begin my agave wander 1,000 miles south of the California border. This wonderland is not exactly affordable Cabo, but living in a stone-encased wonderland by the pounding surf? And, the huge dining room table in my studio suite is allowing me to calmly organize activities in a part of Mexico that is very safe for visitors, and even has drinkable tap water. The only danger here is the volatile undertow created by the merging of the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific. You actually need to sign a waiver to go swimming. * Visit solmar.com to get started. Tequila tasting classes are available for Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa guests every Thursday at 5pm. * Cabo Adventures (cabo-adventures.com) took me on an enlightening outback safari hike through El Kuelele, a desert cactus-forest sloping toward the Pacific. The entertaining guide-naturalist noted that the plentiful multi-armed cardon cactus can live up to 450 years and grow as high as 40 feet. El Kuelele desert cactus-forest The trek concluded on the beach with a hokey camel ride, but I learned something interesting from the camel trainer who is originally a Saharan Desert Tuareg nomad from Niger. Before the U.S. Civil War, the army imported camels and trainers from the Middle East as western frontier caravan pack animals. One of those camel trainers, a Syrian named Elias, moved to Mexico, married a Mexican, and had a son. His son, Elias Calles, became the President of Mexico in 1928. Cabo Adventures resurrected the animal theme the next day when I didn’t just swim with dolphins, I rode one as it swam. I’ve stared an Antarctic-residing whale in the eye while in a kayak. Gazing into a pool-living dolphin’s eye wasn’t quite as supernatural, but equally hypnotizing. * Land’s End connects via pedestrian pathways to other sprawling and diverse Solmar vacation communities—all within a godly rock garden on the beach—with stirring restaurant options. The adjoining resorts include Playa Grande and The Ridge Luxury Villas, both upscale. The Ridge, overlooking it all, has an epic outdoor patio on a rock mountain saddle; dueling ocean/desert views and an amazing menu put this restaurant on my all time top-10. Request to dine on outdoor patio. * Brigantine Restaurant didn’t just dazzle with food, I’m still under the spell of their classic mariachi guitar player/singer. Their luxe spa zone, part of the Solmar spa collection, includes a pre-Hispanic bath cleanse called a temezcal sanctuary—think ancient Mexican-dweller steam/sweat lodge, but with designer outdoor massage tables waiting for you outside. * Heartfelt charity: the Solmar Foundation isn’t kidding about empowering the lives of disadvantaged local people via optional $10 guest donations—and theirs. I visited two of their facilities, an adolescent job training shelter (carpentry, hairstyling, etc.) and an orphanage for sexually-abused kids. They are making a difference; solmarfoundation.com and casahogarcabo.com. * * * Visit solmar.com for more information on Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa. Rooms also have an extra Murphy Bed. Cabo Adventures will assist you in enjoying all of the regional hits, including swimming with dolphins. cabo-adventures.com. Cabo adventures on the move Ps, Dear Mom, been meaning to tell you about a special relationship I’ve been hiding in Cabo, Mexico… Ps, The Pacific Ocean-side road trip from Cabo San Lucas to Todo Santos on Route 9 ranks as a National Park drive, without entrance fee or tolls. Say hi to the clumsy but harmless, bat-sized butterflies. Those cactus skeletons are porous wood, who knew. Statue of Liberty image courtesy planetoftheapes.wikia.com Often, resorts insulate guests from the true jewels of a destination, but Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa sits in Cabo’s geologic marvel jewel. Spectacular roaring Pacific Oceanfront aside, the towering orange-sandstone Moab-style rock formations surrounding this place make your jaw drop—before the hiking starts. Stones-throw from this guilty pleasure getaway is a hike option between jutting 200-foot-high surf-sprayed cliffs to a private narrow hallway of a beach, which then invites you over rock formation to discover famous Divorce Beach, via its back door. Divorce Beach, for those who remember the original (1968) Planet of the Apes, is where Charlton Heston tragically stumbled upon the mostly buried and irrelevant Statue of Liberty. For those who never saw that flick, imagine this: five-star digs on the literal southern tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula in the midst of what should be a natural World Heritage Site. My guilt about staying in a new resort that must have displaced some of Baja California Sur’s wildlife was eased when a few sea turtles came marching my way. Any remorse about blowing my budget that wasn’t eased by the options afforded by my sweetly-appointed room’s full kitchen was evaporated by two incomparable infinity-pool bars. There’s just something about sipping a cocktail chest-deep in water between Mars rock museum pieces and fierce, aqua-blue waves. While touristy downtown Cabo San Lucas is only a ten minute walk, I couldn’t stop peering from the pool bar up at the Presidential Suite that’s the first to rival the opulence I’ve beheld only in the Kingdom of Brunei. Then, a Tequila Sommelier appears armed with an arsenal of brands, limes, and lore…begin my agave wander 1,000 miles south of the California border. This wonderland is not exactly affordable Cabo, but living in a stone-encased wonderland by the pounding surf? And, the huge dining room table in my studio suite is allowing me to calmly organize activities in a part of Mexico that is very safe for visitors, and even has drinkable tap water. The only danger here is the volatile undertow created by the merging of the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific. You actually need to sign a waiver to go swimming. * Visit solmar.com to get started. Tequila tasting classes are available for Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa guests every Thursday at 5pm. * Cabo Adventures (cabo-adventures.com) took me on an enlightening outback safari hike through El Kuelele, a desert cactus-forest sloping toward the Pacific. The entertaining guide-naturalist noted that the plentiful multi-armed cardon cactus can live up to 450 years and grow as high as 40 feet. El Kuelele desert cactus-forest The trek concluded on the beach with a hokey camel ride, but I learned something interesting from the camel trainer who is originally a Saharan Desert Tuareg nomad from Niger. Before the U.S. Civil War, the army imported camels and trainers from the Middle East as western frontier caravan pack animals. One of those camel trainers, a Syrian named Elias, moved to Mexico, married a Mexican, and had a son. His son, Elias Calles, became the President of Mexico in 1928. Cabo Adventures resurrected the animal theme the next day when I didn’t just swim with dolphins, I rode one as it swam. I’ve stared an Antarctic-residing whale in the eye while in a kayak. Gazing into a pool-living dolphin’s eye wasn’t quite as supernatural, but equally hypnotizing. * Land’s End connects via pedestrian pathways to other sprawling and diverse Solmar vacation communities—all within a godly rock garden on the beach—with stirring restaurant options. The adjoining resorts include Playa Grande and The Ridge Luxury Villas, both upscale. The Ridge, overlooking it all, has an epic outdoor patio on a rock mountain saddle; dueling ocean/desert views and an amazing menu put this restaurant on my all time top-10. Request to dine on outdoor patio. * Brigantine Restaurant didn’t just dazzle with food, I’m still under the spell of their classic mariachi guitar player/singer. Their luxe spa zone, part of the Solmar spa collection, includes a pre-Hispanic bath cleanse called a temezcal sanctuary—think ancient Mexican-dweller steam/sweat lodge, but with designer outdoor massage tables waiting for you outside. * Heartfelt charity: the Solmar Foundation isn’t kidding about empowering the lives of disadvantaged local people via optional $10 guest donations—and theirs. I visited two of their facilities, an adolescent job training shelter (carpentry, hairstyling, etc.) and an orphanage for sexually-abused kids. They are making a difference; solmarfoundation.com and casahogarcabo.com. * * * Visit solmar.com for more information on Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa. Rooms also have an extra Murphy Bed. Cabo Adventures will assist you in enjoying all of the regional hits, including swimming with dolphins. cabo-adventures.com. Cabo adventures on the move Ps, Dear Mom, been meaning to tell you about a special relationship I’ve been hiding in Cabo, Mexico… Ps, The Pacific Ocean-side road trip from Cabo San Lucas to Todo Santos on Route 9 ranks as a National Park drive, without entrance fee or tolls. Say hi to the clumsy but harmless, bat-sized butterflies. Those cactus skeletons are porous wood, who knew. Statue of Liberty image courtesy planetoftheapes.wikia.com Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-02-21T18:14:05+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/edmonton http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/edmonton#When:18:06:43Z Edmonton skyline along North Saskatchewan River valley Canada’s ‘Little Brother’ Metropolis Grows Up The U.S.-Canada border, the longest unprotected border in the world, sees 500,000 daily crossings. Our relationship with Canada defines ally. While most Americans are familiar with Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver, their sleeping gem, Edmonton, is starting to get the attention it deserves. Located in the heart of Alberta—one of Canada’s 10 provinces—and hockey legend Wayne Gretzky’s launch-pad, Edmonton is a young northern city of more than a million people with a lot more to do culturally than you’d expect. Their southern neighbor Calgary is a bit more of white collar oil town that’s known, ironically, for peddling Edmonton’s oil. Edmonton was recently named the cultural capital of Canada, and for good reason—there’s no shortage of galleries, symphonies, plays, concerts, and festivals. This riverside metropolis is a mellow yet savvy urban getaway if there ever was one. By the way, their river valley park, which bisects the city like a greenbelt should, is 22 times bigger than Central Park. Edmonton’s Winspear Centre Culture thrives here. Although across-the-river Old Strathcona seems get all the mojo buzz, downtown Edmonton teems with world class performance spaces. The Citadel is a breathtaking complex of theaters, one a 700-seat state-of-the-art thrust stage. All of the Citadel’s venues combined make it the busiest regional theater in Western Canada. citadeltheatre.com. The Winspear Centre’s acoustically perfect balcony-flanked venue also showcases world-class music acts. winspearcentre.com. A sculpture itself when viewed from afar, the incredible Art Gallery of Alberta opened in 2010. It dazzles from inside and out. youraga.ca. Art Gallery of Alberta (photo: Robert Lemermeyer) The Union Bank Inn, a resurrected old-style bank that melds bold Modern Renaissance—imagine swanky 1911—and contemporary design. The goose down bedding, fireplace, and fleece robe waiting in your room add to the understated elegance. Sturdy like an armory, the 14 vintage rooms have different themes each individually overseen by some of Edmonton’s finest interior designers. An adjacent wing providing business-style accommodation makes 34 rooms total. People make a place and their warm staff completes the luxurious Inn experience. The ground floor of the hotel features Madison’s Grill—fine dining sourcing local options—and the adjoining wine cellar-esque Vintage Room. unionbankinn.com. Madison’s Grill—ground floor of The Union Bank Inn For a taste of grand Canadian royalty consider the imposing, river valley-hugging Fairmont Hotel MacDonald. Sample this landmark on fairmont.com/macdonald-edmonton. The cheesy-but-fun Fantasyland Hotel, attached to the famed West Edmonton Mall, is themed by floor. Choices include Hollywood, Roman, and Tropical—there’s even a few igloo-themed rooms with bunk beds. The mall’s mammoth indoor rollercoaster is a savage neck-twister. fantasylandhotel.com. Edmonton’s Fairmont Hotel MacDonald Edmonton’s Blue Plate Diner, holding court on downtown’s 104th Street promenade, serves uplifting diner cuisine including an elk & bison burger, vegetarian options, and a Kentucky Hot Brown (turkey) Sandwich. This cozy joint with high ceilings is a member of eatlocalfirst.com. 104th Street Promenade—home of the Blue Plate Diner Set in a homey building on a residential tree-lined street, the NVE Institute is a spa specializing in phyto-aroma cosmetology—translation, epic massages with a tender “you can nap now” touch, concluding with a nifty tubular-cocoon wrap. A world away from pomp, this place is a down-to-earth upscale treat. nveinstitute.ca. CROSSING THE RIVER For an entirely different urban vibe, explore life across the North Saskatchewan River. Old Strathcona, Edmonton’s Brooklyn, is a hip historic area that’s home to more than 100 eateries and pubs offering the city’s largest variety of jazz, blues, country, folk, alternative rock and dance. Also a theater district with 10 theater groups celebrating new works and innovative takes on classic material, improvisation, and children’s productions. Discover one-of-a kind offerings, from locally made crafts to treasures from afar. Amid many historic buildings, businesses are mostly owner-operated, offering whatever you’d expect to find in New York’s Soho district, minus the people-jams. oldstrathcona.ca. Old Strathcona The Varscona Theatre is located in the heart of Old Strathcona, and is home to four professional resident companies as well as many independent theatres. Check out shadowtheatre.org and varsconatheatre.casaannett.com. Visit Old Strathcona in mid-August and you’ll be in the heart of North America’s longest-running and largest fringe theatre festival. In fact, Edmonton is festival ground zero—home to 30 major festivals year-round that celebrate the arts, music, winter, and sports. Packrat Louie is an upscale brick-walled Swiss bistro with a wood-fired oven and made from scratch international cuisine via fresh local markets. Located in the heart of Old Strathcona, the Swiss, French, German, and Italian influences are enjoyed in an open, friendly environment. packratlouie.com. * * * * * Via Rail has service to/from all points east and west of Edmonton—the four hour train ride west to rustic-but-hip Jasper passes through the Canadian Rockies and some of North America’s best scenery. This rail odyssey makes Amtrak tuck its tail between its legs. viarail.ca. For an impressive overview of what’s to do in rockin’ Edmonton visit edmonton.com. Edmonton twilight Edmonton skyline along North Saskatchewan River valley Canada’s ‘Little Brother’ Metropolis Grows Up The U.S.-Canada border, the longest unprotected border in the world, sees 500,000 daily crossings. Our relationship with Canada defines ally. While most Americans are familiar with Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver, their sleeping gem, Edmonton, is starting to get the attention it deserves. Located in the heart of Alberta—one of Canada’s 10 provinces—and hockey legend Wayne Gretzky’s launch-pad, Edmonton is a young northern city of more than a million people with a lot more to do culturally than you’d expect. Their southern neighbor Calgary is a bit more of white collar oil town that’s known, ironically, for peddling Edmonton’s oil. Edmonton was recently named the cultural capital of Canada, and for good reason—there’s no shortage of galleries, symphonies, plays, concerts, and festivals. This riverside metropolis is a mellow yet savvy urban getaway if there ever was one. By the way, their river valley park, which bisects the city like a greenbelt should, is 22 times bigger than Central Park. Edmonton’s Winspear Centre Culture thrives here. Although across-the-river Old Strathcona seems get all the mojo buzz, downtown Edmonton teems with world class performance spaces. The Citadel is a breathtaking complex of theaters, one a 700-seat state-of-the-art thrust stage. All of the Citadel’s venues combined make it the busiest regional theater in Western Canada. citadeltheatre.com. The Winspear Centre’s acoustically perfect balcony-flanked venue also showcases world-class music acts. winspearcentre.com. A sculpture itself when viewed from afar, the incredible Art Gallery of Alberta opened in 2010. It dazzles from inside and out. youraga.ca. Art Gallery of Alberta (photo: Robert Lemermeyer) The Union Bank Inn, a resurrected old-style bank that melds bold Modern Renaissance—imagine swanky 1911—and contemporary design. The goose down bedding, fireplace, and fleece robe waiting in your room add to the understated elegance. Sturdy like an armory, the 14 vintage rooms have different themes each individually overseen by some of Edmonton’s finest interior designers. An adjacent wing providing business-style accommodation makes 34 rooms total. People make a place and their warm staff completes the luxurious Inn experience. The ground floor of the hotel features Madison’s Grill—fine dining sourcing local options—and the adjoining wine cellar-esque Vintage Room. unionbankinn.com. Madison’s Grill—ground floor of The Union Bank Inn For a taste of grand Canadian royalty consider the imposing, river valley-hugging Fairmont Hotel MacDonald. Sample this landmark on fairmont.com/macdonald-edmonton. The cheesy-but-fun Fantasyland Hotel, attached to the famed West Edmonton Mall, is themed by floor. Choices include Hollywood, Roman, and Tropical—there’s even a few igloo-themed rooms with bunk beds. The mall’s mammoth indoor rollercoaster is a savage neck-twister. fantasylandhotel.com. Edmonton’s Fairmont Hotel MacDonald Edmonton’s Blue Plate Diner, holding court on downtown’s 104th Street promenade, serves uplifting diner cuisine including an elk & bison burger, vegetarian options, and a Kentucky Hot Brown (turkey) Sandwich. This cozy joint with high ceilings is a member of eatlocalfirst.com. 104th Street Promenade—home of the Blue Plate Diner Set in a homey building on a residential tree-lined street, the NVE Institute is a spa specializing in phyto-aroma cosmetology—translation, epic massages with a tender “you can nap now” touch, concluding with a nifty tubular-cocoon wrap. A world away from pomp, this place is a down-to-earth upscale treat. nveinstitute.ca. CROSSING THE RIVER For an entirely different urban vibe, explore life across the North Saskatchewan River. Old Strathcona, Edmonton’s Brooklyn, is a hip historic area that’s home to more than 100 eateries and pubs offering the city’s largest variety of jazz, blues, country, folk, alternative rock and dance. Also a theater district with 10 theater groups celebrating new works and innovative takes on classic material, improvisation, and children’s productions. Discover one-of-a kind offerings, from locally made crafts to treasures from afar. Amid many historic buildings, businesses are mostly owner-operated, offering whatever you’d expect to find in New York’s Soho district, minus the people-jams. oldstrathcona.ca. Old Strathcona The Varscona Theatre is located in the heart of Old Strathcona, and is home to four professional resident companies as well as many independent theatres. Check out shadowtheatre.org and varsconatheatre.casaannett.com. Visit Old Strathcona in mid-August and you’ll be in the heart of North America’s longest-running and largest fringe theatre festival. In fact, Edmonton is festival ground zero—home to 30 major festivals year-round that celebrate the arts, music, winter, and sports. Packrat Louie is an upscale brick-walled Swiss bistro with a wood-fired oven and made from scratch international cuisine via fresh local markets. Located in the heart of Old Strathcona, the Swiss, French, German, and Italian influences are enjoyed in an open, friendly environment. packratlouie.com. * * * * * Via Rail has service to/from all points east and west of Edmonton—the four hour train ride west to rustic-but-hip Jasper passes through the Canadian Rockies and some of North America’s best scenery. This rail odyssey makes Amtrak tuck its tail between its legs. viarail.ca. For an impressive overview of what’s to do in rockin’ Edmonton visit edmonton.com. Edmonton twilight Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-01-24T18:06:43+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/southeast-asias-10-countries-developing-a-united-tourism-vision http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/southeast-asias-10-countries-developing-a-united-tourism-vision#When:17:08:24Z The Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) echoes the European Union’s regional solidarity for reciprocal advantages. The 32nd annual ASEAN Tourism Forum (ATF) will be held in member-nation Laos from January 17-24, 2013. In developmental terms, Southeast Asia’s 10-country amalgam of incredibly diverse cultures poses several challenges. ASEAN member states range from wealthy Singapore and Brunei to agrarian Laos and Cambodia. Politically, members include the democratic Philippines (largely Christian), Indonesia (world’s largest Muslim population), and, until recently, military-ruled Burma. This year’s conference is themed, Road Map for ASEAN: Fostering Sustainable Growth, Promoting EcoTourism. ATF 2013 in Vientiane will bring together Tourism Ministers, travel industry buyers (460 from 60 countries), nearly 1,000 sellers (500 exhibition booths from 360 companies and properties), and media (145 from 35 countries) to focus on the significant developments and aspirations of this booming region. A mine for business and leisure traveler news and forecasts, speakers will range from Tourism Ministers to winners of the Green Recognition Awards, a huge supporter of rainforest tree replanting programs. ATF TRAVEX, the core of the forum, will take place from January 22-24 at the Lao International Trade Exhibition and Convention Centre, a recreational venue in Vientiane. Situated on the Mekong River, Vientiane is the economic center of Laos. The country is celebrated for its ecotourism, Buddhist culture, food, and ultra-friendly people. Professor Bosengkham Vongdara, the Lao Minister of Information, Culture, and Tourism, said, “This is an exciting time for Laotian tourism industry, and we are honored to host ATF 2013. Since we last hosted ATF nine years ago, Laos has grown in infrastructure and facilities. Through ATF, we will do our best to contribute to strengthen and build an ASEAN community by 2015.” Press conferences for each member country create buzz about plans for a single or no-visa policy for the entire region, as this visa-free tourism strategy will create an ideal single destination. For now, news is pending that Cambodia and Thailand are close to implementing a single visa policy, which will ease the Bangkok business traveler’s path to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. Brad Olsen, a California-based author and travel expert, noted that “this forum is always an ideal venue for tourism managers and policy makers to exchange issues of common interest.” Exemplifying that spirit, ASEAN Ministers of Tourism continue developing a mutual recognition agreement aimed to improve the quality of human resources and giving workers in the tourism sectors of member countries a chance to work in different locations in the region. ATF’s “The Heart of Green” campaign also aims to create a united tourism image. ASEAN’s concern for the environment continues to uplift its hotel industry standard in the form of the ASEAN Green Hotel Recognition Awards presented to ASEAN properties with outstanding efforts in environmental conservation. Criteria for these hotels includes environmental-friendliness and energy conservation measures based on 11 major criteria, including environmental policy and actions for hotel operations, solid waste management, energy efficiency, water efficiency, and air quality management. ASEAN cohesion emphasizes partnerships rather than competition. A single ASEAN market free-trade agreement is another goal of the organization. Stefan Christensen, editor-in chief of Sweden’s Asian Magazine, considers this tourism forum to be “more than just another trade show, because they go to great lengths to infuse culture—including music, dancing, and fashion shows—into the daily events.” Conference delegates are also entertained each night by an array of cultural song and dance performances. For more information visit atflaos.com. ASEAN Tourism Forum entertainment Previous ASEAN Tourism Forums have discussed the following topics… ASEAN has existed for more than 40 years, but until December 2008 it had no written constitution. The new charter set a 2015 goal for establishing economic integration via a 10-country free-trade zone and established commitments respecting human rights, democratic principles, and keeping the region free of nuclear weapons. Binding the 10 members to an enhanced legal framework, the regional charter sets out their shared aims and methods of working together. BRUNEI, the last Malay Kingdom, may be alcohol-free, but it still celebrates the good life with options to golf, play polo, dive, or kick back in a plush resort…the list goes on. CAMBODIA, its symbolic Kingdom of Wonder campaign, remains an enduring symbol of Southeast Asia’s incredible history. INDONESIA’s claim that it offers the ultimate in diversity remains legitimate, despite a few setbacks, tourism numbers continue growing. LAOS continues promoting itself as the Jewel of the Mekong with a new effort to support soft tourism and local immersion. MALAYSIA welcomed 23 million visitors in 2009, a one million increase from 2008. MYANMAR, despite its internal conflicts, remained authentic via isolation. The absence of credit card acceptance and foreign investment made it feel like Thailand 40 years ago, which had an upside! Now, every aspect of tourism is quickly evolving, and it can be difficult to secure accommodations. Many of The PHILIPPINES’ 7,017 islands share some form of American-influenced musical, religious, and Hollywood traditions that invite visitors to come and rejoice. SINGAPORE’S Formula One Racing Week, once hosting ZZ Top, will continue to feature international music acts. THAILAND is considering waiving its tourist visa fees, but not their exotic brand: a culture of service. VIETNAM’s French Imperial twist continues fanning its hidden charms, and now, a simpler visa policy. * * * * * GETTNG THERE: For more information on things to do in Laos visit tourismlaos.org. An epicenter of Southeast Asian holiday options are on southeastasia.org. The annual ATF rotates alphabetically through its ten member-countries with a total of 570 million people: Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. Southeast Asia welcomes you! (Akha Hilltribe woman) The Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) echoes the European Union’s regional solidarity for reciprocal advantages. The 32nd annual ASEAN Tourism Forum (ATF) will be held in member-nation Laos from January 17-24, 2013. In developmental terms, Southeast Asia’s 10-country amalgam of incredibly diverse cultures poses several challenges. ASEAN member states range from wealthy Singapore and Brunei to agrarian Laos and Cambodia. Politically, members include the democratic Philippines (largely Christian), Indonesia (world’s largest Muslim population), and, until recently, military-ruled Burma. This year’s conference is themed, Road Map for ASEAN: Fostering Sustainable Growth, Promoting EcoTourism. ATF 2013 in Vientiane will bring together Tourism Ministers, travel industry buyers (460 from 60 countries), nearly 1,000 sellers (500 exhibition booths from 360 companies and properties), and media (145 from 35 countries) to focus on the significant developments and aspirations of this booming region. A mine for business and leisure traveler news and forecasts, speakers will range from Tourism Ministers to winners of the Green Recognition Awards, a huge supporter of rainforest tree replanting programs. ATF TRAVEX, the core of the forum, will take place from January 22-24 at the Lao International Trade Exhibition and Convention Centre, a recreational venue in Vientiane. Situated on the Mekong River, Vientiane is the economic center of Laos. The country is celebrated for its ecotourism, Buddhist culture, food, and ultra-friendly people. Professor Bosengkham Vongdara, the Lao Minister of Information, Culture, and Tourism, said, “This is an exciting time for Laotian tourism industry, and we are honored to host ATF 2013. Since we last hosted ATF nine years ago, Laos has grown in infrastructure and facilities. Through ATF, we will do our best to contribute to strengthen and build an ASEAN community by 2015.” Press conferences for each member country create buzz about plans for a single or no-visa policy for the entire region, as this visa-free tourism strategy will create an ideal single destination. For now, news is pending that Cambodia and Thailand are close to implementing a single visa policy, which will ease the Bangkok business traveler’s path to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. Brad Olsen, a California-based author and travel expert, noted that “this forum is always an ideal venue for tourism managers and policy makers to exchange issues of common interest.” Exemplifying that spirit, ASEAN Ministers of Tourism continue developing a mutual recognition agreement aimed to improve the quality of human resources and giving workers in the tourism sectors of member countries a chance to work in different locations in the region. ATF’s “The Heart of Green” campaign also aims to create a united tourism image. ASEAN’s concern for the environment continues to uplift its hotel industry standard in the form of the ASEAN Green Hotel Recognition Awards presented to ASEAN properties with outstanding efforts in environmental conservation. Criteria for these hotels includes environmental-friendliness and energy conservation measures based on 11 major criteria, including environmental policy and actions for hotel operations, solid waste management, energy efficiency, water efficiency, and air quality management. ASEAN cohesion emphasizes partnerships rather than competition. A single ASEAN market free-trade agreement is another goal of the organization. Stefan Christensen, editor-in chief of Sweden’s Asian Magazine, considers this tourism forum to be “more than just another trade show, because they go to great lengths to infuse culture—including music, dancing, and fashion shows—into the daily events.” Conference delegates are also entertained each night by an array of cultural song and dance performances. For more information visit atflaos.com. ASEAN Tourism Forum entertainment Previous ASEAN Tourism Forums have discussed the following topics… ASEAN has existed for more than 40 years, but until December 2008 it had no written constitution. The new charter set a 2015 goal for establishing economic integration via a 10-country free-trade zone and established commitments respecting human rights, democratic principles, and keeping the region free of nuclear weapons. Binding the 10 members to an enhanced legal framework, the regional charter sets out their shared aims and methods of working together. BRUNEI, the last Malay Kingdom, may be alcohol-free, but it still celebrates the good life with options to golf, play polo, dive, or kick back in a plush resort…the list goes on. CAMBODIA, its symbolic Kingdom of Wonder campaign, remains an enduring symbol of Southeast Asia’s incredible history. INDONESIA’s claim that it offers the ultimate in diversity remains legitimate, despite a few setbacks, tourism numbers continue growing. LAOS continues promoting itself as the Jewel of the Mekong with a new effort to support soft tourism and local immersion. MALAYSIA welcomed 23 million visitors in 2009, a one million increase from 2008. MYANMAR, despite its internal conflicts, remained authentic via isolation. The absence of credit card acceptance and foreign investment made it feel like Thailand 40 years ago, which had an upside! Now, every aspect of tourism is quickly evolving, and it can be difficult to secure accommodations. Many of The PHILIPPINES’ 7,017 islands share some form of American-influenced musical, religious, and Hollywood traditions that invite visitors to come and rejoice. SINGAPORE’S Formula One Racing Week, once hosting ZZ Top, will continue to feature international music acts. THAILAND is considering waiving its tourist visa fees, but not their exotic brand: a culture of service. VIETNAM’s French Imperial twist continues fanning its hidden charms, and now, a simpler visa policy. * * * * * GETTNG THERE: For more information on things to do in Laos visit tourismlaos.org. An epicenter of Southeast Asian holiday options are on southeastasia.org. The annual ATF rotates alphabetically through its ten member-countries with a total of 570 million people: Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. Southeast Asia welcomes you! (Akha Hilltribe woman) Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-01-14T17:08:24+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/respect-your-foods-journey http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/respect-your-foods-journey#When:22:32:03Z There is no burnt rice to a hungry person. —Philippine proverb Filipino farmers acting as human scarecrows Man’s first urge to travel was motivated by finding food. This lifestyle requires a mobile crash pad. Tracking migratory herds, primeval wanderers fashioned portable shelters out of stones, branches, and animal hides. Today, our movable shelters—tents and the like—have roots in archetypal havens like Native American tepees, Inuit tupiks, and Mongolian gers. Even well-fed never-get-their-knees-muddy city kids want to build forts inside their apartments. Because most of us rarely think about from where our food comes, we rarely get to appreciate its farm-to-table odyssey, let alone having to defend it at its origin. Raised in water, rice is the staple food of three billion people, primarily Asians. In traditional rice paddies, a hidden few take shelter and wait until their food is hunted by the enemy. While trekking in the mountainous Philippine highlands, I came across a recurring curiosity, farmhands who seemed to be watching the rice grow. I discovered that the rice business requires 24-hour surveillance in Northern Luzon’s Cordillera, where live scarecrows protect mountainside rice terraces from persistent rice-loving birds. These farmers spend their days in temporary thatch-and-bamboo huts called ab-hungs, makeshift sheds that provide room for only two. They are built into human-crafted mountainside terraces and provide breaks from the sun and rain for the people whose job it is to scare off the thieving “ricebirds.” Filipino rice paddy watchman These human scarecrows use tactics that evolve with the growing seasons. Early on, pounding on a barrel or a basin would suffice in frightening the birds who flew away and devised new plans of attack. When the birds tired of that ploy and returned to the crime scene, the farmers created noise by pulling on strings attached to rows of jingling cans. When that jig was up—the birds don’t fall for the same tricks for long—ab-hung security ultimately had to shoo the birds away by running after them. Fortunately, this mode of occupational scaremongering does pay off. Highland rice is tastier, more aromatic, and more nutritious than the lowland’s industrial version. Then again, more work goes into it, as it takes six to seven months to grow, three times longer than chemically fertilized rice. Locals perform planting and harvesting rituals to invoke ancestral spirits who watch over the crops—and it seems to work. The International Rice Research Institute wasn’t so lucky. When it tried introducing new strains here, they didn’t produce. Farmers then resurrected their ancient methods after rejecting a non-governmental organization’s pesticide invasion, which killed tiny fish and snails—additional food sources—that also grow in the rice-paddy ponds. Ifugao Province kids doing farm chores with a water buffalo Savoring moments in a Philippine bird-spy shack, I’m reminded of the ancient nomad musings weekend warriors enjoy inside their recreational camping tents. Entering one makes the hut smaller but the world bigger. While avoiding some midday rain in this ab-hung, I chat with a local elder about rice watchmen until the sun comes out. Inside the shack, I offer the farsighted, squinting man a pen, and he doles out a pinch of tobacco for me to chew. Insider trading. He then trots out a thought that is loosely translated by an eager kid who has been tailing me. I later employ the eager one as my guide, and the elder’s quote as fact… “A peace on birds would probably work better than this war on birds.” —Rice wisdom ? ? ? ? ? “Ladies and gentleman, this is your dining car attendant. I had the baked chicken, and it changed my life.” —Amtrak employee announcement “Why weight?” —Tahitian beach bartender’s napkin scribble, dismissing customer’s concern about fancy drink’s calorie count. ? ? ? ? ? U.S. lifestyle fan in the Philippine Cordillera There is no burnt rice to a hungry person. —Philippine proverb Filipino farmers acting as human scarecrows Man’s first urge to travel was motivated by finding food. This lifestyle requires a mobile crash pad. Tracking migratory herds, primeval wanderers fashioned portable shelters out of stones, branches, and animal hides. Today, our movable shelters—tents and the like—have roots in archetypal havens like Native American tepees, Inuit tupiks, and Mongolian gers. Even well-fed never-get-their-knees-muddy city kids want to build forts inside their apartments. Because most of us rarely think about from where our food comes, we rarely get to appreciate its farm-to-table odyssey, let alone having to defend it at its origin. Raised in water, rice is the staple food of three billion people, primarily Asians. In traditional rice paddies, a hidden few take shelter and wait until their food is hunted by the enemy. While trekking in the mountainous Philippine highlands, I came across a recurring curiosity, farmhands who seemed to be watching the rice grow. I discovered that the rice business requires 24-hour surveillance in Northern Luzon’s Cordillera, where live scarecrows protect mountainside rice terraces from persistent rice-loving birds. These farmers spend their days in temporary thatch-and-bamboo huts called ab-hungs, makeshift sheds that provide room for only two. They are built into human-crafted mountainside terraces and provide breaks from the sun and rain for the people whose job it is to scare off the thieving “ricebirds.” Filipino rice paddy watchman These human scarecrows use tactics that evolve with the growing seasons. Early on, pounding on a barrel or a basin would suffice in frightening the birds who flew away and devised new plans of attack. When the birds tired of that ploy and returned to the crime scene, the farmers created noise by pulling on strings attached to rows of jingling cans. When that jig was up—the birds don’t fall for the same tricks for long—ab-hung security ultimately had to shoo the birds away by running after them. Fortunately, this mode of occupational scaremongering does pay off. Highland rice is tastier, more aromatic, and more nutritious than the lowland’s industrial version. Then again, more work goes into it, as it takes six to seven months to grow, three times longer than chemically fertilized rice. Locals perform planting and harvesting rituals to invoke ancestral spirits who watch over the crops—and it seems to work. The International Rice Research Institute wasn’t so lucky. When it tried introducing new strains here, they didn’t produce. Farmers then resurrected their ancient methods after rejecting a non-governmental organization’s pesticide invasion, which killed tiny fish and snails—additional food sources—that also grow in the rice-paddy ponds. Ifugao Province kids doing farm chores with a water buffalo Savoring moments in a Philippine bird-spy shack, I’m reminded of the ancient nomad musings weekend warriors enjoy inside their recreational camping tents. Entering one makes the hut smaller but the world bigger. While avoiding some midday rain in this ab-hung, I chat with a local elder about rice watchmen until the sun comes out. Inside the shack, I offer the farsighted, squinting man a pen, and he doles out a pinch of tobacco for me to chew. Insider trading. He then trots out a thought that is loosely translated by an eager kid who has been tailing me. I later employ the eager one as my guide, and the elder’s quote as fact… “A peace on birds would probably work better than this war on birds.” —Rice wisdom ? ? ? ? ? “Ladies and gentleman, this is your dining car attendant. I had the baked chicken, and it changed my life.” —Amtrak employee announcement “Why weight?” —Tahitian beach bartender’s napkin scribble, dismissing customer’s concern about fancy drink’s calorie count. ? ? ? ? ? U.S. lifestyle fan in the Philippine Cordillera Globetrotter Dogma, 2013-01-01T22:32:03+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/japan http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/japan#When:02:05:20Z Nobody ever forgets visiting Japan. In 1987 backpacker mode, I hitched 300 miles from Tokyo to a rural village outside Osaka and unexpectedly ended up living with the Doi family for a month. Bruce with Emiko and Rieko in 1987 An unofficial babysitter and English-speaking influencer for a one- and three-year-old, I relished time with an extended family—four generations under one roof. Twenty-five years later, I returned and reunited with Emiko and Rieko as adults. Although they couldn’t actually remember me, I left behind audio and written English lessons to keep that ball rolling, and their parents documented our time together with photos. The touching reunion was like meeting long lost family in another land and a reminder that life is sweet. Bruce with Emiko and Rieko in 2012 - holding 1987 picture of same trio After revisiting the river of time, I explored Kanto, the region surrounding Tokyo, which has dozens of mind-blowing attractions and gorgeous green spaces all within striking distance. Japan has 47 prefectures; think mini states. Here are a few highlights from Saitama and Chiba Prefectures, which are commuting distance from central Tokyo, akin to New York City’s Westchester and Long Island… Gohyaku Rakan statues, gossiping These are two of 540 centuries-old statues (Gohyaku Rakan) in a courtyard beside Kitain Temple in Kawagoe. Each of Buddha’s stone disciples shares individual, often zany facial expressions, emoting a variety of human feelings. Evidently, gossip has been around for a long time. Kimono fashionista celebrating 7-5-3 day at Meiji Shrine Shichi-Go-San (Seven-Five-Three) occurs on November 15 and is a rite of passage for children of those specific ages to celebrate their transition into middle childhood. The particular ages are consistent with East Asian numerology, which claims that odd numbers are lucky. Children are dressed in kimonos, many for the first time, to visit shrines. Three-year-old girls usually wear hifu (a type of padded vest) with their kimonos. Japanese kids spreading peace on Mount Takao Hiking 108 steps to the Buddhist shrine atop Mount Takaosan is evidence of how much the Japanese love being photographed, many (especially kids) flash the peace sign, which seems to be their “cheese.” The Japanese practice Shinto Buddhism, a worship of nature—mountains, wood, water, and fire—that replicates into respect for others. Buddhism saves people from their worldly desires, making it easier to pass up the beer that is commonly sold in outdoor vending machines. Lantern maker in Asakusa In Japan, professions, such as working in theatre to making traditional lanterns and serving in the priesthood, are often passed from generation to generation. Some of Tokyo’s market vendors and restauranteurs have been in business for 20 generations. The village of Asakusa is the land of handmade lanterns. A red lantern outside a Japanese pub means quick and cheap food and drink. Japanese politeness fast facts: * Remove shoes when entering homes, restaurants, shrines, and most indoor public places. In this foot-oriented society, people use different slippers for their living rooms, bedrooms, and especially bathrooms. * Never bring a wet umbrella indoors. * Being early means being on time. * Yapping on a cell phone while on public transportation is considered disrespectful. * Public nose-blowing is considered disgusting. * When drinking alcohol, never fill your own glass—you’re expected to top off your companions’ drinks. Kampai (cheers). * Bow when others bow. * Two million commuters pass through Shinjuku train station every day. Tokyo is a quagmire tangle of trains and subways where 12 million people efficiently cooperate (Greater Tokyo has nearly 35 million people). Tokyoites crammed into public transport remain silent to avoid disrupting others. Crime is rare, as is rudeness. This is ground zero for manners. * And, oh yeah, maybe means no. Baseball players in Kawagoe Introduced in 1872, baseball is one of the most popular sports in Japan. As evidenced by the number of Japanese playing Major League Baseball. This pastime is serious business. Games here pack small fields and stadiums. Trash talking is non-existent. Instead of playing in the minor leagues or retiring as a pro, some American players play a few more years in Japan. Dinner at Fujiya Kicho in Kisarazu Ps, Japanese people eat sushi with their fingers; sashimi with chopsticks. And, eel on rice, a simple ancestral recipe, is trendy again. Immense stone Buddha at Nihonji Temple in Nokogiriyama This 100-foot-high sitting stone Buddha was carved from mountain granite in 1783. It is the reward for a hike up and down a few hillsides on a trail that passes through several Rakan statue gardens. More peace in Japan In Japan, childhood friends often remain friends forever. It’s another testimony for these incredibly gentle, resilient, and good-natured people who live in the land that seems to have invented manners. Bruce discussing the Japanese penchant for flashing peace signs at Tokyo’s Anime Center The peace sign is commonly made by Japanese people, especially kids, when posing for informal photographs. One account of this habit is during the 1972 Winter Olympics in the mountainous Japanese city of Sapporo, American figure skater Janet Lynn stumbled into Japan’s pop culture when she slipped during a free-skate period but continued smiling even as she sat on the ice. Though she placed only third in the competition, her cheerfulness in the face of failure resonated with the Land of the Rising Sun, making her an overnight celebrity. Lynn, a peace activist, was repeatedly seen flashing the peace sign in the Japanese media thereafter. * * * * * For more information about these regions outside Tokyo, visit Chiba (chiba-tour.jp) and Saitama (sainokuni-kanko.jp/eng). For an overview on visiting Japan, also explore jnto.go.jp. Nobody ever forgets visiting Japan. In 1987 backpacker mode, I hitched 300 miles from Tokyo to a rural village outside Osaka and unexpectedly ended up living with the Doi family for a month. Bruce with Emiko and Rieko in 1987 An unofficial babysitter and English-speaking influencer for a one- and three-year-old, I relished time with an extended family—four generations under one roof. Twenty-five years later, I returned and reunited with Emiko and Rieko as adults. Although they couldn’t actually remember me, I left behind audio and written English lessons to keep that ball rolling, and their parents documented our time together with photos. The touching reunion was like meeting long lost family in another land and a reminder that life is sweet. Bruce with Emiko and Rieko in 2012 - holding 1987 picture of same trio After revisiting the river of time, I explored Kanto, the region surrounding Tokyo, which has dozens of mind-blowing attractions and gorgeous green spaces all within striking distance. Japan has 47 prefectures; think mini states. Here are a few highlights from Saitama and Chiba Prefectures, which are commuting distance from central Tokyo, akin to New York City’s Westchester and Long Island… Gohyaku Rakan statues, gossiping These are two of 540 centuries-old statues (Gohyaku Rakan) in a courtyard beside Kitain Temple in Kawagoe. Each of Buddha’s stone disciples shares individual, often zany facial expressions, emoting a variety of human feelings. Evidently, gossip has been around for a long time. Kimono fashionista celebrating 7-5-3 day at Meiji Shrine Shichi-Go-San (Seven-Five-Three) occurs on November 15 and is a rite of passage for children of those specific ages to celebrate their transition into middle childhood. The particular ages are consistent with East Asian numerology, which claims that odd numbers are lucky. Children are dressed in kimonos, many for the first time, to visit shrines. Three-year-old girls usually wear hifu (a type of padded vest) with their kimonos. Japanese kids spreading peace on Mount Takao Hiking 108 steps to the Buddhist shrine atop Mount Takaosan is evidence of how much the Japanese love being photographed, many (especially kids) flash the peace sign, which seems to be their “cheese.” The Japanese practice Shinto Buddhism, a worship of nature—mountains, wood, water, and fire—that replicates into respect for others. Buddhism saves people from their worldly desires, making it easier to pass up the beer that is commonly sold in outdoor vending machines. Lantern maker in Asakusa In Japan, professions, such as working in theatre to making traditional lanterns and serving in the priesthood, are often passed from generation to generation. Some of Tokyo’s market vendors and restauranteurs have been in business for 20 generations. The village of Asakusa is the land of handmade lanterns. A red lantern outside a Japanese pub means quick and cheap food and drink. Japanese politeness fast facts: * Remove shoes when entering homes, restaurants, shrines, and most indoor public places. In this foot-oriented society, people use different slippers for their living rooms, bedrooms, and especially bathrooms. * Never bring a wet umbrella indoors. * Being early means being on time. * Yapping on a cell phone while on public transportation is considered disrespectful. * Public nose-blowing is considered disgusting. * When drinking alcohol, never fill your own glass—you’re expected to top off your companions’ drinks. Kampai (cheers). * Bow when others bow. * Two million commuters pass through Shinjuku train station every day. Tokyo is a quagmire tangle of trains and subways where 12 million people efficiently cooperate (Greater Tokyo has nearly 35 million people). Tokyoites crammed into public transport remain silent to avoid disrupting others. Crime is rare, as is rudeness. This is ground zero for manners. * And, oh yeah, maybe means no. Baseball players in Kawagoe Introduced in 1872, baseball is one of the most popular sports in Japan. As evidenced by the number of Japanese playing Major League Baseball. This pastime is serious business. Games here pack small fields and stadiums. Trash talking is non-existent. Instead of playing in the minor leagues or retiring as a pro, some American players play a few more years in Japan. Dinner at Fujiya Kicho in Kisarazu Ps, Japanese people eat sushi with their fingers; sashimi with chopsticks. And, eel on rice, a simple ancestral recipe, is trendy again. Immense stone Buddha at Nihonji Temple in Nokogiriyama This 100-foot-high sitting stone Buddha was carved from mountain granite in 1783. It is the reward for a hike up and down a few hillsides on a trail that passes through several Rakan statue gardens. More peace in Japan In Japan, childhood friends often remain friends forever. It’s another testimony for these incredibly gentle, resilient, and good-natured people who live in the land that seems to have invented manners. Bruce discussing the Japanese penchant for flashing peace signs at Tokyo’s Anime Center The peace sign is commonly made by Japanese people, especially kids, when posing for informal photographs. One account of this habit is during the 1972 Winter Olympics in the mountainous Japanese city of Sapporo, American figure skater Janet Lynn stumbled into Japan’s pop culture when she slipped during a free-skate period but continued smiling even as she sat on the ice. Though she placed only third in the competition, her cheerfulness in the face of failure resonated with the Land of the Rising Sun, making her an overnight celebrity. Lynn, a peace activist, was repeatedly seen flashing the peace sign in the Japanese media thereafter. * * * * * For more information about these regions outside Tokyo, visit Chiba (chiba-tour.jp) and Saitama (sainokuni-kanko.jp/eng). For an overview on visiting Japan, also explore jnto.go.jp. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-12-18T02:05:20+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/costa-ricas-oasis http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/costa-ricas-oasis#When:20:22:15Z Playa Guiones—Nosara, Costa Rica Nature is still running the show on Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Peninsula, a rugged nature sanctuary gracing the Pacific coast. At its heart is Nosara, a marine development, surrounded by verdant hills, nicknamed “The American Project” in the late 1960s. It’s still a beach town on a mission to never really have one because the founding fathers and mothers cleverly put the environment first. Bordered by a wildlife refuge, the town prohibits building 200 yards from the coastline, so the long, wide, fine-sand beaches are not littered with resorts or loud beach joints. While standing on the beach, you’d never know that anyone lived here. The best happy hour is on the beach; recurring parties are barefoot ex-pats and locals (incredibly friendly “ticos”) taking in nightly sunsets upon the sands of Playa Guiones. As evidenced by the hundreds of would-be visitors that have literally never left, this is a tough place for goodbye. Nosara is renowned as the place to surf or more so, learning how to surf, because the manageable waves just keep coming. The constant, user-friendly breaks create, in my view, a rare ocean swimming phenomenon. Between the warm waves swimmers dodge, they end up in a blissful, crackling sea spa foam Jacuzzi for 30 seconds. Think: dive under or crash into a wave, Jacuzzi, another wave, Jacuzzi. Nosara has everything you’d expect to find in a tourist beach town—fancy boutiques, fruit and fish markets, surf shops, and restaurants inspired by different corners of the world—but you’re a long way from paved roads, casinos, franchises, or bragging rights for the fanciest car. Here, vehicles with air intake snorkels looming above their windshields so they can drive in four feet of water get a tip of the cap. You won’t see many swollen tummies here. Along with being a famous surfing Mecca, Nosara is a far-calling epicenter for Yoga. Yoga gurus teaching enthusiasts keeps pace with veteran surfers encouraging rookies. Here, the learning never stops. The slow season is equally blissful. Guanacaste’s summertime green season remains cooler than most of the U.S., uncrowded, and free of the dirt road dust that can fly during the drier season. Either way, this brand of tropics being rarely more than a five-hour flight from the U.S. is tough to beat. Mostly, it’s a place to relax. Sloths are revered here for their casual tree-hanging coolness. At first, when locals began calling one of my very mellow, sleepy-eyed pals a sloth, we thought he was being insulted. But they were all smiles; it means chilled-out, not lazy. Then we began seeing pictures of the heralded sloth everywhere in town, including a gigantic mural at the airport on our departure, so the new nickname stuck. Nosara is an unofficial health campus with party options—a barrier-free resort. Talk about getting away from it all…I joined friends one night for a leisurely midnight lounge on the beach, where the lapping water met the sand. We laid there laughing at the moon, being baptized by the water. The next day, we learned that—simultaneous with our late-night oceanic recline—a tsunami warning was trigged by a strong earthquake off the coast of neighboring El Salvador. The warning was later lifted, probably just as we rose for a breakfast of handpicked fruit. Surf lessons on Playa Guiones My surf lesson reminded me of how long it had been since I was tutored in anything. Veteran surfers tackled more hardcore breaks a half mile offshore while I congratulated myself for standing on the board until it hit the sand. The lesson was worthwhile for at least two reasons. It’s nice to spend time with a teacher who has no question about what they want to do with their lives. And, I probably wouldn’t have figured out that the most common surfing injury is not paying attention to where your board is until a passing wave whacks it into your face. Caught-and-released Blue Marlin Sports fishing here is more than a 20-mile offshore troll. Yes, we did haul in and release a six-foot-long, 400-pound blue marlin, but we also communed with the Pacific as its hues changed from green to blue and back to green again. Nosara sits the closest to the offshore deepwater than any other Costa Rican shoreline. The four-hour communal with the rocking ocean was suddenly punctuated when that mammoth marlin sprung out of the water. Another pal hauled it in—note adrenaline rushes require nap time later—and our local fishing guide subdued it, so we could snap a few pix. At first, I thought the burly guide was showcasing his ability to manhandle the marlin with his bare hands on its razor-sharp foot-long bill. But, we later learned that it was a wrestling match intending to calm the flailing trophy until it gave up so he could remove the hook and release it safely. Cruising miles offshore Nosara’s mountainous coastline was an epic window into this regions’ grandeur. Like many rural Costa Ricans, our tico pilot and guide redefined cool but capable. Yeah, it’s touristy, but flying high over jungle valleys and rivers truly rocks. 21 zip-lines provide up to two-minutes of racing quiet time over Nosara’s rainforest canopy. Adrenaline and breathtaking scenery blend well, and concluded with a side-hike to swim in a waterfall. The funny Miss Sky Canopy guides got the last laugh when they hooked me up to an ascending line (instead of a descending one) and watched me run toward an impossible uphill launch. You don’t need an excuse to play in the mud. I come from a generation of suburbanites who, until reaching the age where girls were treated like boys, coming home from school covered in dirt was normal. It amazes me how you never see kids climbing trees anymore. Howling Monkey’s TomCars are savage, indestructible Jeep-like 4x4s on ‘roids that won’t tip unless you spill off a cliff. The two and four-seat muscle buggies can literally climb anything, navigate water, and, as the smiling locals noted, chicks dig them. Because I was raised by environmentalists, I initially worried about scaring wildlife, but the pelicans and flamingoes we visited barely batted an eyelash. Any dirt we skidded out of place would be restored by the next rainfall. Adrenaline aside—they also go fast—this Nosara backroads tour visited waterfalls, scenic pastures, and breathtaking mountaintop views of the Pacific. Namaste Oasis—view from their private pool There’s a lot to do here, but you’ll need rest too. It’s nice to lie in a clean king-size bed with high-thread count sheets and watch monkeys swing in the trees. Namaste Oasis is the coolest pad in Nosara’s jungle. This boutique resort is a 10-minute shaded walk to the beach. Its two sleek, two-story hillside buildings create four 1000 square-foot ultra-modern two-bedroom condos with grand balconies overlooking a freshwater pool. Or more simply, it’s a private resort with four swank garden apartments. Here, maid-insured cleanliness, working modern appliances, and dependable everything is a rarity. The four units recall something you’d find in the Hollywood Hills, except that you’re at the end of a dirt road while the howler monkeys do their thing: howl. I catch one cold a year, and it’s usually from air-conditioning. Keeping the walls of sliding glass doors open, I encountered no bugs, only sunrise jungle sounds—and the huge, accessible balcony seems to double your square footage. The full kitchen is an ideal place to cook the one-dollar lobster tails from the local market. Ps, Sloths rule. See you on the beach for sunset. * * * * * Visit namasteoasis.com for rates and motivation on custom surf lessons, and everything else. fishingnosara.com redefines a day on the Pacific. Namaste Oasis’s front yard Costa Rica’s new Liberia Airport is two hours from Nosara and offers many direct flights from the U.S. From Liberia, rent a car or arrange for a 4x4 SUV pickup via Namaste Oasis. There are on-call taxi-vans in Nosara, along with plenty of bikes, ATVs, and golf carts to rent. Playa Guiones—Nosara, Costa Rica Nature is still running the show on Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Peninsula, a rugged nature sanctuary gracing the Pacific coast. At its heart is Nosara, a marine development, surrounded by verdant hills, nicknamed “The American Project” in the late 1960s. It’s still a beach town on a mission to never really have one because the founding fathers and mothers cleverly put the environment first. Bordered by a wildlife refuge, the town prohibits building 200 yards from the coastline, so the long, wide, fine-sand beaches are not littered with resorts or loud beach joints. While standing on the beach, you’d never know that anyone lived here. The best happy hour is on the beach; recurring parties are barefoot ex-pats and locals (incredibly friendly “ticos”) taking in nightly sunsets upon the sands of Playa Guiones. As evidenced by the hundreds of would-be visitors that have literally never left, this is a tough place for goodbye. Nosara is renowned as the place to surf or more so, learning how to surf, because the manageable waves just keep coming. The constant, user-friendly breaks create, in my view, a rare ocean swimming phenomenon. Between the warm waves swimmers dodge, they end up in a blissful, crackling sea spa foam Jacuzzi for 30 seconds. Think: dive under or crash into a wave, Jacuzzi, another wave, Jacuzzi. Nosara has everything you’d expect to find in a tourist beach town—fancy boutiques, fruit and fish markets, surf shops, and restaurants inspired by different corners of the world—but you’re a long way from paved roads, casinos, franchises, or bragging rights for the fanciest car. Here, vehicles with air intake snorkels looming above their windshields so they can drive in four feet of water get a tip of the cap. You won’t see many swollen tummies here. Along with being a famous surfing Mecca, Nosara is a far-calling epicenter for Yoga. Yoga gurus teaching enthusiasts keeps pace with veteran surfers encouraging rookies. Here, the learning never stops. The slow season is equally blissful. Guanacaste’s summertime green season remains cooler than most of the U.S., uncrowded, and free of the dirt road dust that can fly during the drier season. Either way, this brand of tropics being rarely more than a five-hour flight from the U.S. is tough to beat. Mostly, it’s a place to relax. Sloths are revered here for their casual tree-hanging coolness. At first, when locals began calling one of my very mellow, sleepy-eyed pals a sloth, we thought he was being insulted. But they were all smiles; it means chilled-out, not lazy. Then we began seeing pictures of the heralded sloth everywhere in town, including a gigantic mural at the airport on our departure, so the new nickname stuck. Nosara is an unofficial health campus with party options—a barrier-free resort. Talk about getting away from it all…I joined friends one night for a leisurely midnight lounge on the beach, where the lapping water met the sand. We laid there laughing at the moon, being baptized by the water. The next day, we learned that—simultaneous with our late-night oceanic recline—a tsunami warning was trigged by a strong earthquake off the coast of neighboring El Salvador. The warning was later lifted, probably just as we rose for a breakfast of handpicked fruit. Surf lessons on Playa Guiones My surf lesson reminded me of how long it had been since I was tutored in anything. Veteran surfers tackled more hardcore breaks a half mile offshore while I congratulated myself for standing on the board until it hit the sand. The lesson was worthwhile for at least two reasons. It’s nice to spend time with a teacher who has no question about what they want to do with their lives. And, I probably wouldn’t have figured out that the most common surfing injury is not paying attention to where your board is until a passing wave whacks it into your face. Caught-and-released Blue Marlin Sports fishing here is more than a 20-mile offshore troll. Yes, we did haul in and release a six-foot-long, 400-pound blue marlin, but we also communed with the Pacific as its hues changed from green to blue and back to green again. Nosara sits the closest to the offshore deepwater than any other Costa Rican shoreline. The four-hour communal with the rocking ocean was suddenly punctuated when that mammoth marlin sprung out of the water. Another pal hauled it in—note adrenaline rushes require nap time later—and our local fishing guide subdued it, so we could snap a few pix. At first, I thought the burly guide was showcasing his ability to manhandle the marlin with his bare hands on its razor-sharp foot-long bill. But, we later learned that it was a wrestling match intending to calm the flailing trophy until it gave up so he could remove the hook and release it safely. Cruising miles offshore Nosara’s mountainous coastline was an epic window into this regions’ grandeur. Like many rural Costa Ricans, our tico pilot and guide redefined cool but capable. Yeah, it’s touristy, but flying high over jungle valleys and rivers truly rocks. 21 zip-lines provide up to two-minutes of racing quiet time over Nosara’s rainforest canopy. Adrenaline and breathtaking scenery blend well, and concluded with a side-hike to swim in a waterfall. The funny Miss Sky Canopy guides got the last laugh when they hooked me up to an ascending line (instead of a descending one) and watched me run toward an impossible uphill launch. You don’t need an excuse to play in the mud. I come from a generation of suburbanites who, until reaching the age where girls were treated like boys, coming home from school covered in dirt was normal. It amazes me how you never see kids climbing trees anymore. Howling Monkey’s TomCars are savage, indestructible Jeep-like 4x4s on ‘roids that won’t tip unless you spill off a cliff. The two and four-seat muscle buggies can literally climb anything, navigate water, and, as the smiling locals noted, chicks dig them. Because I was raised by environmentalists, I initially worried about scaring wildlife, but the pelicans and flamingoes we visited barely batted an eyelash. Any dirt we skidded out of place would be restored by the next rainfall. Adrenaline aside—they also go fast—this Nosara backroads tour visited waterfalls, scenic pastures, and breathtaking mountaintop views of the Pacific. Namaste Oasis—view from their private pool There’s a lot to do here, but you’ll need rest too. It’s nice to lie in a clean king-size bed with high-thread count sheets and watch monkeys swing in the trees. Namaste Oasis is the coolest pad in Nosara’s jungle. This boutique resort is a 10-minute shaded walk to the beach. Its two sleek, two-story hillside buildings create four 1000 square-foot ultra-modern two-bedroom condos with grand balconies overlooking a freshwater pool. Or more simply, it’s a private resort with four swank garden apartments. Here, maid-insured cleanliness, working modern appliances, and dependable everything is a rarity. The four units recall something you’d find in the Hollywood Hills, except that you’re at the end of a dirt road while the howler monkeys do their thing: howl. I catch one cold a year, and it’s usually from air-conditioning. Keeping the walls of sliding glass doors open, I encountered no bugs, only sunrise jungle sounds—and the huge, accessible balcony seems to double your square footage. The full kitchen is an ideal place to cook the one-dollar lobster tails from the local market. Ps, Sloths rule. See you on the beach for sunset. * * * * * Visit namasteoasis.com for rates and motivation on custom surf lessons, and everything else. fishingnosara.com redefines a day on the Pacific. Namaste Oasis’s front yard Costa Rica’s new Liberia Airport is two hours from Nosara and offers many direct flights from the U.S. From Liberia, rent a car or arrange for a 4x4 SUV pickup via Namaste Oasis. There are on-call taxi-vans in Nosara, along with plenty of bikes, ATVs, and golf carts to rent. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-11-27T20:22:15+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/puerto-rico-uncle-sams-caribbean http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/puerto-rico-uncle-sams-caribbean#When:17:18:51Z El Morro Fort This sunny commonwealth is way more than a medley of restaurants and resorts. And, pro-American is an understatement. Old San Juan has many friendly establishments, but the Red Monkey, a restored multi-room colonial gem won me over. Here, I got into the nitty-gritty of this country’s polarizing take on whether Puerto Rico should remain a U.S. territory, become the 51st state, or strive for complete independence. One upside to its current status is Puerto Ricans boast their own Olympic team and contestants in Ms. Universe contests, not to mention they also have citizenship rights allowing them to study, work, and travel in the U.S. In addition, they have access to U.S. military protection and monetary assistance. A downside to their status is having no control over imports and exports—and being unable to access cheap oil from Venezuela. They pay as much for gas as the mainland. There’s no apathy for anything political here. Puerto Rico averages 90 percent voter turnout and every notch of the AM dial is political talk radio, on speed. Although the U.N. doesn’t recognize Puerto Rico, it sure feels like its own country to me. But here’s the most vital information: the average summer temperature is only 86 degrees; it rarely breaks 90, ever. And the people are friendly. Uncle Sam’s Caribbean is made up of four million salsa-dancing hybrids. The meld of indigenous natives, Spaniards, and Africans are looking forward to greeting you. Old San Juan Old San Juan, like Havana and every other Spanish colonial city, charms at every turn. Many of its landmarks are older than anything on our mainland. In fact, El Morro Castle is the oldest fort and oldest National Park in the U.S. The Spaniard-made treasures in St. Augustine and Pensacola hijacked this design. Sixteenth-century architecture and antique homes painted in every pastel hue line Belgian-made cobblestone streets made from iron and stone, giving them a bluish tint. It’s another world. Belgian-made iron and stone cobblestones This 100-mile long island is as long as New York’s Long Island, but it’s definitely not flat. The island’s mountains include majestic limestone pinnacles and cliffs that shelter a gourmet coffee region, growing 100 brands and some of the world’s best. Ciales, a village in the island’s hilly midst has a coffee museum and an international tasting shop. A local connoisseur testified that premium coffee should only be mixed with 96-degree water, otherwise you’re burning away its essence. That temperature, by the way, is when water begins to accumulate bubbles on the bottom of the kettle. Puerto Rican coffee is even good enough for the Pope. Alto Grande, grown near Ciales, is the official coffee of the Vatican. Coffee isn’t the only thing that brings people together. U.S. sports fans will find instant camaraderie here. Soccer may be the world’s most popular sport, with no shortage of fans in the Caribbean and Latin America. But in Puerto Rico, American baseball and basketball fans outnumber soccer fans. In fact, when local NBA star JJ Barea won the championship as a Dallas Maverick, Puerto Rico threw him a hero’s parade. Just like in the Philippines, the only place in Southeast Asia where basketball truly caught on, the U.S. built basketball courts across Puerto Rico, and they got the ball bouncing. One of my early exposures to Latin American grace was watching Hall of Fame baseball player Roberto Clemente play when I was in elementary school. The first Puerto Rican to play Major League Baseball, he overcame American racism by example. He pioneered humanitarian work throughout Latin America, often delivering baseball equipment and food. He died in a 1972 plane crash just off the Puerto Rican coast while en route to deliver aid to Nicaraguan earthquake victims. His gracious manner was born here, and many of the island’s affable people uphold his kindly way. And it goes way beyond baseball. Not going on an A-Lister monologue, but both Sammy Davis, Jr. and Prince’s moms were born here. Celebrating life seems to be in the Puerto Rican blood. I came away with a much better understanding of Puerto Rico. Sometimes, the second time is the charm. I look forward to my return to this happy, relaxed island. * * * * Whet your appetite at seepuertorico.com. Details on the Saborea Food Festival are on saboreapuertorico.com. Flights from New York are frequent and cheap. View from Caribe Hilton * The storied and sprawling Caribe Hilton overlooks Spanish fortification ruins and a 270-degree swatch of light Atlantic blue. The rambling beach area screams recreate. The pina colada was invented here. Joan Crawford tasted one and said, “Well, that’s better than slapping Bette Davis in the face.” The comment made the drink soar in popularity. Make sure your room isn’t near a roof vent or the truck delivery dock. The hotel’s in-house Lemongrass Restaurant rocks Pan Asian Latino. It’s a five-minute walk to the Saborea Food Festival. caribehilton.com * Guide virtuoso: Raymond Sepulveda via acampapr.com. El Yunque National Forest * El Yunque National Forest is the sole tropical rain forest in the U.S. National Forest System. The forest’s relatively small 28,000-acre size belies its importance. The highland forest maintains an average temperature of 73 degrees. Noted for its biodiversity and home to thousands of native plants, including 150 fern species and 240 tree species. El Yunque has no large wildlife species, but hundreds of smaller animals abound, many of which exist nowhere else. The Puerto Rican Amazon—a parrot species—is native to the island. Its population became endangered because of habitat destruction and was nearly wiped out altogether by Hurricane Hugo in 1989. The Puerto Rican government is working hard to repopulate the species. El Morro Fort This sunny commonwealth is way more than a medley of restaurants and resorts. And, pro-American is an understatement. Old San Juan has many friendly establishments, but the Red Monkey, a restored multi-room colonial gem won me over. Here, I got into the nitty-gritty of this country’s polarizing take on whether Puerto Rico should remain a U.S. territory, become the 51st state, or strive for complete independence. One upside to its current status is Puerto Ricans boast their own Olympic team and contestants in Ms. Universe contests, not to mention they also have citizenship rights allowing them to study, work, and travel in the U.S. In addition, they have access to U.S. military protection and monetary assistance. A downside to their status is having no control over imports and exports—and being unable to access cheap oil from Venezuela. They pay as much for gas as the mainland. There’s no apathy for anything political here. Puerto Rico averages 90 percent voter turnout and every notch of the AM dial is political talk radio, on speed. Although the U.N. doesn’t recognize Puerto Rico, it sure feels like its own country to me. But here’s the most vital information: the average summer temperature is only 86 degrees; it rarely breaks 90, ever. And the people are friendly. Uncle Sam’s Caribbean is made up of four million salsa-dancing hybrids. The meld of indigenous natives, Spaniards, and Africans are looking forward to greeting you. Old San Juan Old San Juan, like Havana and every other Spanish colonial city, charms at every turn. Many of its landmarks are older than anything on our mainland. In fact, El Morro Castle is the oldest fort and oldest National Park in the U.S. The Spaniard-made treasures in St. Augustine and Pensacola hijacked this design. Sixteenth-century architecture and antique homes painted in every pastel hue line Belgian-made cobblestone streets made from iron and stone, giving them a bluish tint. It’s another world. Belgian-made iron and stone cobblestones This 100-mile long island is as long as New York’s Long Island, but it’s definitely not flat. The island’s mountains include majestic limestone pinnacles and cliffs that shelter a gourmet coffee region, growing 100 brands and some of the world’s best. Ciales, a village in the island’s hilly midst has a coffee museum and an international tasting shop. A local connoisseur testified that premium coffee should only be mixed with 96-degree water, otherwise you’re burning away its essence. That temperature, by the way, is when water begins to accumulate bubbles on the bottom of the kettle. Puerto Rican coffee is even good enough for the Pope. Alto Grande, grown near Ciales, is the official coffee of the Vatican. Coffee isn’t the only thing that brings people together. U.S. sports fans will find instant camaraderie here. Soccer may be the world’s most popular sport, with no shortage of fans in the Caribbean and Latin America. But in Puerto Rico, American baseball and basketball fans outnumber soccer fans. In fact, when local NBA star JJ Barea won the championship as a Dallas Maverick, Puerto Rico threw him a hero’s parade. Just like in the Philippines, the only place in Southeast Asia where basketball truly caught on, the U.S. built basketball courts across Puerto Rico, and they got the ball bouncing. One of my early exposures to Latin American grace was watching Hall of Fame baseball player Roberto Clemente play when I was in elementary school. The first Puerto Rican to play Major League Baseball, he overcame American racism by example. He pioneered humanitarian work throughout Latin America, often delivering baseball equipment and food. He died in a 1972 plane crash just off the Puerto Rican coast while en route to deliver aid to Nicaraguan earthquake victims. His gracious manner was born here, and many of the island’s affable people uphold his kindly way. And it goes way beyond baseball. Not going on an A-Lister monologue, but both Sammy Davis, Jr. and Prince’s moms were born here. Celebrating life seems to be in the Puerto Rican blood. I came away with a much better understanding of Puerto Rico. Sometimes, the second time is the charm. I look forward to my return to this happy, relaxed island. * * * * Whet your appetite at seepuertorico.com. Details on the Saborea Food Festival are on saboreapuertorico.com. Flights from New York are frequent and cheap. View from Caribe Hilton * The storied and sprawling Caribe Hilton overlooks Spanish fortification ruins and a 270-degree swatch of light Atlantic blue. The rambling beach area screams recreate. The pina colada was invented here. Joan Crawford tasted one and said, “Well, that’s better than slapping Bette Davis in the face.” The comment made the drink soar in popularity. Make sure your room isn’t near a roof vent or the truck delivery dock. The hotel’s in-house Lemongrass Restaurant rocks Pan Asian Latino. It’s a five-minute walk to the Saborea Food Festival. caribehilton.com * Guide virtuoso: Raymond Sepulveda via acampapr.com. El Yunque National Forest * El Yunque National Forest is the sole tropical rain forest in the U.S. National Forest System. The forest’s relatively small 28,000-acre size belies its importance. The highland forest maintains an average temperature of 73 degrees. Noted for its biodiversity and home to thousands of native plants, including 150 fern species and 240 tree species. El Yunque has no large wildlife species, but hundreds of smaller animals abound, many of which exist nowhere else. The Puerto Rican Amazon—a parrot species—is native to the island. Its population became endangered because of habitat destruction and was nearly wiped out altogether by Hurricane Hugo in 1989. The Puerto Rican government is working hard to repopulate the species. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-11-07T17:18:51+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/uncle-sams-caribbean http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/uncle-sams-caribbean#When:19:23:20Z Puerto Rico As opposed to being a raconteur (storyteller), this is my Ricanteur. Ever been hell-bent on replacing a bad memory with something sweeter? New York City’s Puerto Rican Day Parade aside, my reigning experience on this island was nearly being shot. After a six-hour stopover from Aruba in the 90s became a few late-night hours of partying, I hoped to bypass paying for a downtown San Juan hotel by napping outside for a few hours. Sand flies convinced me that heading inland to get a bit of shuteye behind a hedge near an inviting villa was a good idea. A few minutes into my nap, someone barked “Policia, policia!” I jumped to my feet and emerged from the hedge to behold a man crouched in shooting position, gun pointing at my chest. Likely a private security guard, he was 10 feet away and serious. Fearing for my life, I summoned some high school Spanish: “Sueno, no criminale, sueno!” No bang, yet. I still had to go back into the hedge and fetch my backpack, which didn’t amuse the gunman. I managed to escape the grounds alive. Although my first book was called The Frugal Globetrotter, this el cheapo blunder changed my travel tact forever. Stingy nurtured by stupid can be deadly. Needless to say, my first impression of Puerto Rico needed an overhaul. Saborea Food Festival I returned to Puerto Rico to experience its Saborea food festival, a smaller version of the Miami Food Festival, and a larger version of Latino life. Sabor means taste, and I certainly got a taste of life in Puerto Rico. This breezy, oceanside food and beverage celebration showcases splendid modern Puerto Rican cuisine, meet-and-greets with various chefs, and unlimited offerings from the island’s best restaurants for one modest price. There is a second act after the tropical drinks. I found that mingling with judges, entertainers, and cooking seminar leaders blended nicely with stops to sample everything from ceviche salsa to lime hummus. Headlining was one of the island’s signature dishes, mofongo: Seasoned plantains mashed up like potatoes mixed with seafood, chicken, beef, pork, or as is. The island’s bond with the Atlantic Ocean, Caribbean Sea, soaring rainforest mountains, and lush agricultural valleys—all spiced by Afro-Caribbean, Latin American, European, and U.S. tastebuds—gives birth to an incredible variety of food styles. Ah, the winds of change. This time, I got it right. Puerto Rican cuisine is grandma’s staples meeting Caribbean flair. The festival was a high-end affair without a bowtie in sight. The hardcore foodies I dined with were wowed by this Spanish-descended culinary grace. Food is serious business here; many chefs train abroad at award-winning institutes and globally seasoned sommeliers lurk. * Visit seepuertorico.com to get the ball rolling. Details on the Saborea Food Festival are on saboreapuertorico.com. Fights from New York are frequent and cheap. Crispy & Relleno’s all-star chef * Crispy & Relleno is where master chef Fernando Parrilla spins his roadside bistro magic. Expect avocado miracles and fresh seafood that changes with the seasonal menu. crispyyrelleno.com. * Augusto’s Restaurant, though enveloped by a recently built Courtyard Marriott, is a 30-year culinary tradition that will surprise with its seared scallop and Maine lobster lasagna in a mussel-curry foam. Our waiter, Carlos, was a clever humorist who evolved from a concocted, whispering eighteenth century nobleman into himself, a funny man demonstrating Puerto Rico’s brainy wit. * Eighty20 Bistro, in the Verdanza Hotel, rivals a Beverly Hills wine spot—minus the facelifts. Its five-course wine-entrée pairing debuted with moaning-good conch gazpacho over pigeon pea hummus. Its Italian sommelier, Dario, tows in some the world’s finest. Take that, South Beach. verdanzahotel.com Puerto Rico As opposed to being a raconteur (storyteller), this is my Ricanteur. Ever been hell-bent on replacing a bad memory with something sweeter? New York City’s Puerto Rican Day Parade aside, my reigning experience on this island was nearly being shot. After a six-hour stopover from Aruba in the 90s became a few late-night hours of partying, I hoped to bypass paying for a downtown San Juan hotel by napping outside for a few hours. Sand flies convinced me that heading inland to get a bit of shuteye behind a hedge near an inviting villa was a good idea. A few minutes into my nap, someone barked “Policia, policia!” I jumped to my feet and emerged from the hedge to behold a man crouched in shooting position, gun pointing at my chest. Likely a private security guard, he was 10 feet away and serious. Fearing for my life, I summoned some high school Spanish: “Sueno, no criminale, sueno!” No bang, yet. I still had to go back into the hedge and fetch my backpack, which didn’t amuse the gunman. I managed to escape the grounds alive. Although my first book was called The Frugal Globetrotter, this el cheapo blunder changed my travel tact forever. Stingy nurtured by stupid can be deadly. Needless to say, my first impression of Puerto Rico needed an overhaul. Saborea Food Festival I returned to Puerto Rico to experience its Saborea food festival, a smaller version of the Miami Food Festival, and a larger version of Latino life. Sabor means taste, and I certainly got a taste of life in Puerto Rico. This breezy, oceanside food and beverage celebration showcases splendid modern Puerto Rican cuisine, meet-and-greets with various chefs, and unlimited offerings from the island’s best restaurants for one modest price. There is a second act after the tropical drinks. I found that mingling with judges, entertainers, and cooking seminar leaders blended nicely with stops to sample everything from ceviche salsa to lime hummus. Headlining was one of the island’s signature dishes, mofongo: Seasoned plantains mashed up like potatoes mixed with seafood, chicken, beef, pork, or as is. The island’s bond with the Atlantic Ocean, Caribbean Sea, soaring rainforest mountains, and lush agricultural valleys—all spiced by Afro-Caribbean, Latin American, European, and U.S. tastebuds—gives birth to an incredible variety of food styles. Ah, the winds of change. This time, I got it right. Puerto Rican cuisine is grandma’s staples meeting Caribbean flair. The festival was a high-end affair without a bowtie in sight. The hardcore foodies I dined with were wowed by this Spanish-descended culinary grace. Food is serious business here; many chefs train abroad at award-winning institutes and globally seasoned sommeliers lurk. * Visit seepuertorico.com to get the ball rolling. Details on the Saborea Food Festival are on saboreapuertorico.com. Fights from New York are frequent and cheap. Crispy & Relleno’s all-star chef * Crispy & Relleno is where master chef Fernando Parrilla spins his roadside bistro magic. Expect avocado miracles and fresh seafood that changes with the seasonal menu. crispyyrelleno.com. * Augusto’s Restaurant, though enveloped by a recently built Courtyard Marriott, is a 30-year culinary tradition that will surprise with its seared scallop and Maine lobster lasagna in a mussel-curry foam. Our waiter, Carlos, was a clever humorist who evolved from a concocted, whispering eighteenth century nobleman into himself, a funny man demonstrating Puerto Rico’s brainy wit. * Eighty20 Bistro, in the Verdanza Hotel, rivals a Beverly Hills wine spot—minus the facelifts. Its five-course wine-entrée pairing debuted with moaning-good conch gazpacho over pigeon pea hummus. Its Italian sommelier, Dario, tows in some the world’s finest. Take that, South Beach. verdanzahotel.com Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-10-24T19:23:20+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/ethiopia-brave-women-nifty-headstyles http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/ethiopia-brave-women-nifty-headstyles#When:21:38:46Z “If truth is beauty, how come no one has their hair done in a library?” –Lily Tomlin Millennia of Wanderers The roaming gene shoots the rapids of natural selection, motion creating emotion. Walking never disappoints; a whimsical celebration of right now. The human wandering gene should not be outsourced over time—and the country that started it all keeps on trekking. Today’s travelers are actually returning home to Africa’s pilgrimage epicenter and enjoying the legacy of the world’s oldest woman—Lucy’s relatives. Lucy’s home town is the valley that inspired lovely ladies on the move. Lucy, discovered in 1974 by Richard Leakey, strolled on two legs 3.2 million years ago. Three and a half feet tall, upright Lucy made Ethiopia the cradle of humanity—her fame as the first “fossilized hominid” may not sound sexy but her descendants are. Lucy was named after the Beatles song, “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds,” because it was playing in the Afar region archeological camp when she was unearthed. The most famous fossilized woman, once considered to be the second oldest human found, is the habitual biped link between chimpanzees and humans. Lucy was sort of upstaged recently when Ethiopia published the discovery of Ardi, a female skeleton dating 4.4 million years. There seems to be no doubt that Ethiopia will continue rearranging the furniture of human history. Ethiopia’s population was 15 million in 1935. Because they do everything, including having many babies, Ethiopian women have evidently been multitasking ever since; the population is now 83 million. Compared to other parts of Africa where equal opportunity remains elusive, Ethiopian women continue marching steadily toward equality by means of education, property ownership, voting rights, and legalized government representation; some serve in the governmental cabinet. Though, like in many parts of the world, women still have battles to wage. Increasingly, Ethiopian women are gravitating to towns and cities to avoid arranged marriages. The Ethiopian women’s ability to multitask also invented the unintentional model: they showcase a huge variety of hair and head–garment styles with flair. Never colonized and proud of it, they’ve had plenty of time to groom their own fashion sense. Every country has it wow elements, Ethiopia not only meets that challenge, it owns the challenge—never forced to borrow style from anyone, natural elegance reigns. It’s common to see women elegantly bedecked in traditional white, homespun cotton gowns or other languid robe–ish attire. Everybody seems to get along here. Ethiopia thrives with more than 80 different ethnic groups. The national language is Amharic, the native language of the Amhara people, and spoken in soft musical tones. Foreign but familiar, Ethiopian women taught me something about patience—theirs, mostly. Headstyles In all societies, hairstyles identify tribal leanings. Ethiopian hairdos reflect the country’s diverse ethnic groups. Hair is shaved, cut, dreadlocked, plaited, trimmed, buttered, braided, bunned, infused with mud, molded by clay, and styled into Disco–ready afro–mullets. And as expected, religion infuses mops—the heads of rural kids are sometimes shaved to deter lice, excepting a square patch on top, a topknot, so that if God decides to call them, He has “a handle with which to lift them unto Heaven.” 14th century Ethiopian Orthodox Church mural The shash, a women’s headscarf or headwrap mixing form and function, is decorative yet also protects from dust, sun, and wind. Crafted from any fabric, the shash also hides evidence of recent scalp butter treatments. Some Ethiopian women trust that butter applied directly to the scalp diffuses into facial skin producing a youthful glow. They use steam to facilitate this. The male equivalent to the shash is a Gabi, though I didn’t meet any guys who buttered their heads. “Don’t ask the barber if you need a haircut.” –Warren Buffet I’m rarely star–struck, but every day patches of Ethiopia resemble an epic Jesus–era movie set. Ethiopia’s impassioned genealogy shares millennium–surviving traditions assigned a hue all its own…religious ecstasy. The country that still embodies the walkabout remains a pilgrim magnet and a fitting location for the African Union headquarters. Ethiopia is humanity’s starting line…ground zero for our most primitive manifest destiny. “Every time an old person passes away, it’s as if a whole library were lost” –Ethiopian saying * * * Ethiopia’s beauty is on seeyouinethiopia.com. Ethiopian Airlines (flyethiopian.com) flies to Addis Ababa via Washington Dulles Airport. “If truth is beauty, how come no one has their hair done in a library?” –Lily Tomlin Millennia of Wanderers The roaming gene shoots the rapids of natural selection, motion creating emotion. Walking never disappoints; a whimsical celebration of right now. The human wandering gene should not be outsourced over time—and the country that started it all keeps on trekking. Today’s travelers are actually returning home to Africa’s pilgrimage epicenter and enjoying the legacy of the world’s oldest woman—Lucy’s relatives. Lucy’s home town is the valley that inspired lovely ladies on the move. Lucy, discovered in 1974 by Richard Leakey, strolled on two legs 3.2 million years ago. Three and a half feet tall, upright Lucy made Ethiopia the cradle of humanity—her fame as the first “fossilized hominid” may not sound sexy but her descendants are. Lucy was named after the Beatles song, “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds,” because it was playing in the Afar region archeological camp when she was unearthed. The most famous fossilized woman, once considered to be the second oldest human found, is the habitual biped link between chimpanzees and humans. Lucy was sort of upstaged recently when Ethiopia published the discovery of Ardi, a female skeleton dating 4.4 million years. There seems to be no doubt that Ethiopia will continue rearranging the furniture of human history. Ethiopia’s population was 15 million in 1935. Because they do everything, including having many babies, Ethiopian women have evidently been multitasking ever since; the population is now 83 million. Compared to other parts of Africa where equal opportunity remains elusive, Ethiopian women continue marching steadily toward equality by means of education, property ownership, voting rights, and legalized government representation; some serve in the governmental cabinet. Though, like in many parts of the world, women still have battles to wage. Increasingly, Ethiopian women are gravitating to towns and cities to avoid arranged marriages. The Ethiopian women’s ability to multitask also invented the unintentional model: they showcase a huge variety of hair and head–garment styles with flair. Never colonized and proud of it, they’ve had plenty of time to groom their own fashion sense. Every country has it wow elements, Ethiopia not only meets that challenge, it owns the challenge—never forced to borrow style from anyone, natural elegance reigns. It’s common to see women elegantly bedecked in traditional white, homespun cotton gowns or other languid robe–ish attire. Everybody seems to get along here. Ethiopia thrives with more than 80 different ethnic groups. The national language is Amharic, the native language of the Amhara people, and spoken in soft musical tones. Foreign but familiar, Ethiopian women taught me something about patience—theirs, mostly. Headstyles In all societies, hairstyles identify tribal leanings. Ethiopian hairdos reflect the country’s diverse ethnic groups. Hair is shaved, cut, dreadlocked, plaited, trimmed, buttered, braided, bunned, infused with mud, molded by clay, and styled into Disco–ready afro–mullets. And as expected, religion infuses mops—the heads of rural kids are sometimes shaved to deter lice, excepting a square patch on top, a topknot, so that if God decides to call them, He has “a handle with which to lift them unto Heaven.” 14th century Ethiopian Orthodox Church mural The shash, a women’s headscarf or headwrap mixing form and function, is decorative yet also protects from dust, sun, and wind. Crafted from any fabric, the shash also hides evidence of recent scalp butter treatments. Some Ethiopian women trust that butter applied directly to the scalp diffuses into facial skin producing a youthful glow. They use steam to facilitate this. The male equivalent to the shash is a Gabi, though I didn’t meet any guys who buttered their heads. “Don’t ask the barber if you need a haircut.” –Warren Buffet I’m rarely star–struck, but every day patches of Ethiopia resemble an epic Jesus–era movie set. Ethiopia’s impassioned genealogy shares millennium–surviving traditions assigned a hue all its own…religious ecstasy. The country that still embodies the walkabout remains a pilgrim magnet and a fitting location for the African Union headquarters. Ethiopia is humanity’s starting line…ground zero for our most primitive manifest destiny. “Every time an old person passes away, it’s as if a whole library were lost” –Ethiopian saying * * * Ethiopia’s beauty is on seeyouinethiopia.com. Ethiopian Airlines (flyethiopian.com) flies to Addis Ababa via Washington Dulles Airport. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-10-09T21:38:46+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/middle-east-love-fix http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/middle-east-love-fix#When:16:13:50Z My travels have introduced me to many veiled saints, but my connection to Wafa Kanan, who I’ve worked with in Syria, Egypt, and Jordan, remains a secular blessing. Born and raised in a warring Lebanon, she now resides in Los Angeles, the base for the ALO Cultural Foundation, a non-profit charity she founded that funds social and health programs for underserved communities worldwide. The foundation also surgically reconstructs the bodies and faces of children with severe genetic abnormalities and simultaneously nurtures harmony in the Middle East. Kanan makes a difference one child and one case at a time—trusting that loyalty can transform violence. The word alo is a warm Middle Eastern greeting. This Los Angeles prime-time news segment says it all, and might bring happy tears to your eyes… * * * Q. With what’s happening in the Arab world right now (Arab Spring turned Brutal Fall), how are you redirecting ALO’s mission? A. Each situation requires intense controversial discussion that gives flight to ideological breakthroughs. Similar to my foundation, ALO Magazine (a publication echoing the foundation’s message, www.alomagazine.com) changes with every issue. We build our content to address issues transparently and bridge cross-cultural understanding. What’s happening in the Middle East is no different from what happened in America in the 1900’s, or in Europe centuries ago. History repeats itself, as the world strives for equality. Unfortunately, equality and its sister—democracy—are sometimes nothing but words. Politicians use them as rhetoric, building on weak foundations. It boils in people’s hearts to breathe free, and when they do breathe again, the opportunists yank them into another cycle of madness. The questions remain: Is there true democracy and equality anywhere? How do you define it internationally? Q. As Al Qaeda seeks to undermine efforts to build U.S. and Arab relations, do you think it’s possible that the Arab world itself will rise up against such activism? A. Let’s make it clear first, before I answer this question, that I do not claim to be a political pundit. Personally, I see vital issues that are being missed by both the media and government. People choose to ignore the fact that there is a difference between the policies of a government and the will of the people. Every government has its own supporters and outlaws. Minority groups should have rights and a voice for peaceful, positive change. We all know how bad news travels fast; controversy sells. This is a huge challenge for Middle Easterners. You must understand the culture of a country and its religious structure, and study its laws to determine the validity of its government. ALO knows that solutions are not resolved by war, but with real development: education, awareness, and social advancement. But it never happens quickly enough. What happens when a government ignores essential rights for its people? Resentment rises. What happens when the world ignores basic human rights, religion, and history? Revolutions are launched by underground militias in countries that have no other choice but to follow leaders of oppression. Then, greed rules. Only when all religions and religious leaders begin a true dialogue, while promoting understanding and tolerance, will we rise as one against anyone and anything that destroys humanity. We should invest our international grants intelligently to bridge the gap and connect people to our common humanity. Violence and war are not the answer. That is why the ALO Cultural Foundation focuses on cultural diplomacy and bridging both sides through philanthropy and involvement—we are connected by our actions and not by our spoken words. Q. What do most U.S. citizens fail to comprehend about Arab people? A. If I must categorize, most Westerners have a lack of knowledge about the region. Innocent ignorance that means unfamiliarity with Arabs’ culture, diversity, and customs. In the States, Americans take for granted their lifestyle and independence, and it seems from the surface, they want to run other countries with the same set of values. The Middle East is the source of a 5,000-year-old history that cannot be overpowered by Western methodology or ideology…but rather by contemporary interconnectivity. Concerned citizens in the U.S. should help change the message sent by the government’s foreign policy, not just the 50 billion dollars changing hands annually. I’m talking about cultural understanding while accepting our differences. Most Arabs face challenges Westerners can’t comprehend. While the majority rules, that majority should be the people and not the government. Never give up. * * * The ALO Cultural Foundation is making a difference; www.alofoundation.org Wafa Kanan Interviewer ps—Masterpieces in their own right, the Bible, Qur’an, and Tora were written by folks who believed the world was flat. Wafa Kanan in action My travels have introduced me to many veiled saints, but my connection to Wafa Kanan, who I’ve worked with in Syria, Egypt, and Jordan, remains a secular blessing. Born and raised in a warring Lebanon, she now resides in Los Angeles, the base for the ALO Cultural Foundation, a non-profit charity she founded that funds social and health programs for underserved communities worldwide. The foundation also surgically reconstructs the bodies and faces of children with severe genetic abnormalities and simultaneously nurtures harmony in the Middle East. Kanan makes a difference one child and one case at a time—trusting that loyalty can transform violence. The word alo is a warm Middle Eastern greeting. This Los Angeles prime-time news segment says it all, and might bring happy tears to your eyes… * * * Q. With what’s happening in the Arab world right now (Arab Spring turned Brutal Fall), how are you redirecting ALO’s mission? A. Each situation requires intense controversial discussion that gives flight to ideological breakthroughs. Similar to my foundation, ALO Magazine (a publication echoing the foundation’s message, www.alomagazine.com) changes with every issue. We build our content to address issues transparently and bridge cross-cultural understanding. What’s happening in the Middle East is no different from what happened in America in the 1900’s, or in Europe centuries ago. History repeats itself, as the world strives for equality. Unfortunately, equality and its sister—democracy—are sometimes nothing but words. Politicians use them as rhetoric, building on weak foundations. It boils in people’s hearts to breathe free, and when they do breathe again, the opportunists yank them into another cycle of madness. The questions remain: Is there true democracy and equality anywhere? How do you define it internationally? Q. As Al Qaeda seeks to undermine efforts to build U.S. and Arab relations, do you think it’s possible that the Arab world itself will rise up against such activism? A. Let’s make it clear first, before I answer this question, that I do not claim to be a political pundit. Personally, I see vital issues that are being missed by both the media and government. People choose to ignore the fact that there is a difference between the policies of a government and the will of the people. Every government has its own supporters and outlaws. Minority groups should have rights and a voice for peaceful, positive change. We all know how bad news travels fast; controversy sells. This is a huge challenge for Middle Easterners. You must understand the culture of a country and its religious structure, and study its laws to determine the validity of its government. ALO knows that solutions are not resolved by war, but with real development: education, awareness, and social advancement. But it never happens quickly enough. What happens when a government ignores essential rights for its people? Resentment rises. What happens when the world ignores basic human rights, religion, and history? Revolutions are launched by underground militias in countries that have no other choice but to follow leaders of oppression. Then, greed rules. Only when all religions and religious leaders begin a true dialogue, while promoting understanding and tolerance, will we rise as one against anyone and anything that destroys humanity. We should invest our international grants intelligently to bridge the gap and connect people to our common humanity. Violence and war are not the answer. That is why the ALO Cultural Foundation focuses on cultural diplomacy and bridging both sides through philanthropy and involvement—we are connected by our actions and not by our spoken words. Q. What do most U.S. citizens fail to comprehend about Arab people? A. If I must categorize, most Westerners have a lack of knowledge about the region. Innocent ignorance that means unfamiliarity with Arabs’ culture, diversity, and customs. In the States, Americans take for granted their lifestyle and independence, and it seems from the surface, they want to run other countries with the same set of values. The Middle East is the source of a 5,000-year-old history that cannot be overpowered by Western methodology or ideology…but rather by contemporary interconnectivity. Concerned citizens in the U.S. should help change the message sent by the government’s foreign policy, not just the 50 billion dollars changing hands annually. I’m talking about cultural understanding while accepting our differences. Most Arabs face challenges Westerners can’t comprehend. While the majority rules, that majority should be the people and not the government. Never give up. * * * The ALO Cultural Foundation is making a difference; www.alofoundation.org Wafa Kanan Interviewer ps—Masterpieces in their own right, the Bible, Qur’an, and Tora were written by folks who believed the world was flat. Wafa Kanan in action Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-10-01T16:13:50+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/ethiopia-origin-of-the-energy-drink http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/ethiopia-origin-of-the-energy-drink#When:16:17:38Z Perhaps Ethiopia’s status as the birthplace (origin) of the energy drink has had some impact on their mobility/wandering nature. Yielding humanity’s oldest traces provided ample time to concoct a few fads, including one that hasn’t faded. Sometime after the sacking of Rome and before Europe slipped into the darkest of its Dark Ages, coffee was discovered in Ethiopia. Caffeinated storytellers say it goes something like this: A wise herder named Kaldi noted that his goats became hyped up after chewing specific plant leaves and berries, so he munched on some and caught a buzz. After sharing this discovery with a nearby monastery, Kaldi was scolded “for partaking in the fruit of the devil.” That is until the monks whiffed the splendid aroma emanating from the fire from where they’d pitched the devil’s brew. Monks then began drying coffee beans and shipping them to other Ethiopian monasteries. Upon receipt, they rehydrated the beans in water, ate the fruit and drank the brew, which they discovered helped them stay chipper for nocturnal prayers. Soon after, Arabs began importing beans and the coffee business launched. Fifteenth century Turks invented the modern style of brewing and stamped an adaptation of the Kaffa province’s name on it: “kahve”. Ethiopian Orthodox priest Whereas American coffee joints prey on creamy consumerism and wirelessness, Ethiopia’s coffee houses are about socializing. Coffee (buna) is also vital at home and honored with its own ritual. The coffee ceremony showcases Ethiopia’s welcoming nature. An invite extends a hand of friendship, requiring about as much time as it takes to enjoy an American barbeque. The ceremony begins with freshly cut grass scattered on the floor to share nature’s bouquet (and conjure up memories of cutting the lawn to earn your allowance). An incense burner smokes with an aromatic gum while the hosting brewmaster sits on a low stool before a mini charcoal stove. As coffee beans roast in a pan, everyone is invited to draw the smoke their way, inhale, and then rejoice with an aroma exclaim, either borrowing a fancy wine connoisseur idiom or simply “mmm.” The roasted beans are then ground with a pestle and mortar, brewed, and served in petite china cups—heavy on the sugar. Traditionally, three cups are served; the third bestowing a blessing. Popcorn usually makes a showing at this core of Ethiopian sociology where organic conversation trumps all modern communication mediums—high time for the sort of womanly conversing that’s typical in salons. Enjoying another energy drink, ferengi (white people) like to tie one on by drinking honey wine in the country’s numerous tej bars. We can’t survive on beverages alone. The national staple is teff, the main grain ingredient in a nutritious, moist–spongy pancake–like bread that doubles as both utensil and plate—menu items parked atop this old world pizza are clutched and consumed with torn off pieces. During these traditional, earthbound mealtimes I kept peeking around for the beanbag chairs. Ethiopians are caffeinated without the agitation—I didn’t spot one Homo Coffee–addictus in the land that produced the first energy drink. Ethiopians define mellow and gracious in a land of heavenly visions. Churches, markets, smiles, and biological anthropology reveal a dateline of pioneering while Ethiopia tutors us on simply enjoying a moment. The allure of many African countries is game preserves. Ethiopia’s not a place to behold the “big five animals,” yet it boasts eight World Heritage Sites. Their ancient sense of style means that accidental models stroll along every bend in the road. * * * * * Get a coffee buzz on seeyouinethiopia.com. Ethiopian Airlines (flyethiopian.com) flies to Addis Ababa via Washington Dulles Airport. Ethiopian market life Perhaps Ethiopia’s status as the birthplace (origin) of the energy drink has had some impact on their mobility/wandering nature. Yielding humanity’s oldest traces provided ample time to concoct a few fads, including one that hasn’t faded. Sometime after the sacking of Rome and before Europe slipped into the darkest of its Dark Ages, coffee was discovered in Ethiopia. Caffeinated storytellers say it goes something like this: A wise herder named Kaldi noted that his goats became hyped up after chewing specific plant leaves and berries, so he munched on some and caught a buzz. After sharing this discovery with a nearby monastery, Kaldi was scolded “for partaking in the fruit of the devil.” That is until the monks whiffed the splendid aroma emanating from the fire from where they’d pitched the devil’s brew. Monks then began drying coffee beans and shipping them to other Ethiopian monasteries. Upon receipt, they rehydrated the beans in water, ate the fruit and drank the brew, which they discovered helped them stay chipper for nocturnal prayers. Soon after, Arabs began importing beans and the coffee business launched. Fifteenth century Turks invented the modern style of brewing and stamped an adaptation of the Kaffa province’s name on it: “kahve”. Ethiopian Orthodox priest Whereas American coffee joints prey on creamy consumerism and wirelessness, Ethiopia’s coffee houses are about socializing. Coffee (buna) is also vital at home and honored with its own ritual. The coffee ceremony showcases Ethiopia’s welcoming nature. An invite extends a hand of friendship, requiring about as much time as it takes to enjoy an American barbeque. The ceremony begins with freshly cut grass scattered on the floor to share nature’s bouquet (and conjure up memories of cutting the lawn to earn your allowance). An incense burner smokes with an aromatic gum while the hosting brewmaster sits on a low stool before a mini charcoal stove. As coffee beans roast in a pan, everyone is invited to draw the smoke their way, inhale, and then rejoice with an aroma exclaim, either borrowing a fancy wine connoisseur idiom or simply “mmm.” The roasted beans are then ground with a pestle and mortar, brewed, and served in petite china cups—heavy on the sugar. Traditionally, three cups are served; the third bestowing a blessing. Popcorn usually makes a showing at this core of Ethiopian sociology where organic conversation trumps all modern communication mediums—high time for the sort of womanly conversing that’s typical in salons. Enjoying another energy drink, ferengi (white people) like to tie one on by drinking honey wine in the country’s numerous tej bars. We can’t survive on beverages alone. The national staple is teff, the main grain ingredient in a nutritious, moist–spongy pancake–like bread that doubles as both utensil and plate—menu items parked atop this old world pizza are clutched and consumed with torn off pieces. During these traditional, earthbound mealtimes I kept peeking around for the beanbag chairs. Ethiopians are caffeinated without the agitation—I didn’t spot one Homo Coffee–addictus in the land that produced the first energy drink. Ethiopians define mellow and gracious in a land of heavenly visions. Churches, markets, smiles, and biological anthropology reveal a dateline of pioneering while Ethiopia tutors us on simply enjoying a moment. The allure of many African countries is game preserves. Ethiopia’s not a place to behold the “big five animals,” yet it boasts eight World Heritage Sites. Their ancient sense of style means that accidental models stroll along every bend in the road. * * * * * Get a coffee buzz on seeyouinethiopia.com. Ethiopian Airlines (flyethiopian.com) flies to Addis Ababa via Washington Dulles Airport. Ethiopian market life Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-09-17T16:17:38+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/counting-countries http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/counting-countries#When:15:42:57Z I’d rather kiss a Canadian buffalo than count countries for bragging rights Country counting is trivial, deceptive, and no way to gauge worldliness. If today’s hardcore world travelers had been born near European seaports in the 1500s, they’d surely be the ones on those outbound world exploration ships. And they’d be landing in undeclared territories, unconcerned about ticking off invented geographic border claims. I cringe to tally destinations but did it to simplify things for my forthcoming book, The Directions to Happiness, which logs my encounters with unsung sages in 125 so-called “legitimate” countries. On the other hand, country counting arouses curiosity and contemplation. Although I do aspire to feel every country, the global country count depends upon who is doing the math. The United Nations currently recognizes 193 official countries, while Fed Ex delivers to more than 220 countries and territories. The U.N. ignores Taiwan (complicated) and Caribbean Martinique (lumps it with France), while Fed Ex serves North Korea. Border disputes are as old as time—the U.N. views Puerto Rico only as a U.S. Territory, but it sure feels like its own country to me. Likely the most humane approach toward country counting involved the 204 nations competing in the 2012 Olympics. And, for frequent fliers keen on growing—or perhaps padding—that figure, there’s the Travelers’ Century Club, which spikes the number to more than 300 by adding places that are not actually countries in their own right but are included because they are removed from the parent country, either geographically, politically, or ethnologically. I certainly agree that Irian Jaya (a.k.a. Dutch New Guinea) is light years away away from its parent country, Indonesia. Such recategorizations make sense within many of the world’s invented nations. I also agree that the geography, politics, and customs in Alaska and Hawaii are a far cry from what makes Arkansas tick, but considering places like Alaska and Hawaii as individual countries—as the Travelers’ Century Club does—blurs borderlines. I can testify that Antarctica’s Deception Island, part of South Shetland—one of the Falkland Islands Dependencies—is a world unto itself. Travelers’ Century Club even subdivides the White Continent into seven countries (not including the regions leased for research), which makes acing its test highly improbable. Heck, New York City smells different from block to block. I’ve been wandering its five boroughs since the late 70s and will never experience its every note. Whichever destination calculus you choose, remain thoughtfully wary of relying on country counting for bragging rights. You can knock off 10 in as many days in Europe, if that’s your kind of thing. A manic tour of Southeast Asia can log 10 more in less than a month. Africa’s 55 countries make it a handy field of dreams. But in doing so, you will miss the most precious takeaway: allowing destinations to mosey over and discover you. I’ve been to a dozen countries a dozen times. That didn’t increase an inconsequential nation ticker but forever connects me to those places. An aspect of the Travelers’ Century Club that I value is recognizing that many countries have diverse, multiple vibes that are blind to nationalism. The regional enchantment within massive countries like Canada, China, India, Indonesia, Russia, and the United States should instead alter how we perceive seeing the world—they’re not each one brand. Geographically and culturally, these sprawling realms have provincial variations that are so distinct from one another that each of these nations could subdivide into a dozen or more provinces. Exploring these bigger countries—and all countries for that matter—at a slower pace allows you to gain the insight lost in a check-the-box race. Memo: airport stopovers and daytripper cruise ship dockings are extremely weak entries. So don’t tally, stray. And let that thinking continue until the moon gets lost in the trees. One confirmation of a content soul is when his or her surroundings absorb him or her as compassionately as they absorb their surroundings. Be available for the magic, and never apologize for being streetwise, no matter how many places you’ve been. I celebrate my exploration of Canada’s ten provinces, three territories, and high arctic region—incredible diversity for one country—with far more passion than visiting every country in Western Europe, which is the size of New England. New England represents about two-percent of Canada’s landmass. Get it? Canada is our second largest country, geographically diverse, and wondrous. Head north. Speaking of wowing, because many Americans know little about Canada, our closest neighbor, while conversing with any Canuk, simply comprehending that they have 10 provinces and three territories is a feather in your cap. Less than one percent of Americans seem to know this while (guessing with my eyes open) ninety-percent of Canadians can name the 50 states. Ethnocentric Americans often fail to acknowledge that Canada is also an American country. For that matter, if you spice in Central and South America’s 19 countries there are actually 20 Americas (not including Mexico). So-called “Americans” are actually citizens of the United States of America, and it can be argued that every Caribbean island is also part of the Americas. Phew. Enough math. Go roam out of bounds. ? ? ? ? ? I hope not to end this contemplation in lecture mode, so here’s an alternative take on whereabouts… “Who’s with me on the whole ‘center sun’ theory?” —Bewildered Galileo reincarnate lecturing at Goa, India party “We are doubly landlocked.” —Smarty-pants Liechtensteiner clarifying that his homeland is surrounded only by other landlocked countries, meaning they must cross at least two borders to reach a coastline. I’d rather kiss a Canadian buffalo than count countries for bragging rights Country counting is trivial, deceptive, and no way to gauge worldliness. If today’s hardcore world travelers had been born near European seaports in the 1500s, they’d surely be the ones on those outbound world exploration ships. And they’d be landing in undeclared territories, unconcerned about ticking off invented geographic border claims. I cringe to tally destinations but did it to simplify things for my forthcoming book, The Directions to Happiness, which logs my encounters with unsung sages in 125 so-called “legitimate” countries. On the other hand, country counting arouses curiosity and contemplation. Although I do aspire to feel every country, the global country count depends upon who is doing the math. The United Nations currently recognizes 193 official countries, while Fed Ex delivers to more than 220 countries and territories. The U.N. ignores Taiwan (complicated) and Caribbean Martinique (lumps it with France), while Fed Ex serves North Korea. Border disputes are as old as time—the U.N. views Puerto Rico only as a U.S. Territory, but it sure feels like its own country to me. Likely the most humane approach toward country counting involved the 204 nations competing in the 2012 Olympics. And, for frequent fliers keen on growing—or perhaps padding—that figure, there’s the Travelers’ Century Club, which spikes the number to more than 300 by adding places that are not actually countries in their own right but are included because they are removed from the parent country, either geographically, politically, or ethnologically. I certainly agree that Irian Jaya (a.k.a. Dutch New Guinea) is light years away away from its parent country, Indonesia. Such recategorizations make sense within many of the world’s invented nations. I also agree that the geography, politics, and customs in Alaska and Hawaii are a far cry from what makes Arkansas tick, but considering places like Alaska and Hawaii as individual countries—as the Travelers’ Century Club does—blurs borderlines. I can testify that Antarctica’s Deception Island, part of South Shetland—one of the Falkland Islands Dependencies—is a world unto itself. Travelers’ Century Club even subdivides the White Continent into seven countries (not including the regions leased for research), which makes acing its test highly improbable. Heck, New York City smells different from block to block. I’ve been wandering its five boroughs since the late 70s and will never experience its every note. Whichever destination calculus you choose, remain thoughtfully wary of relying on country counting for bragging rights. You can knock off 10 in as many days in Europe, if that’s your kind of thing. A manic tour of Southeast Asia can log 10 more in less than a month. Africa’s 55 countries make it a handy field of dreams. But in doing so, you will miss the most precious takeaway: allowing destinations to mosey over and discover you. I’ve been to a dozen countries a dozen times. That didn’t increase an inconsequential nation ticker but forever connects me to those places. An aspect of the Travelers’ Century Club that I value is recognizing that many countries have diverse, multiple vibes that are blind to nationalism. The regional enchantment within massive countries like Canada, China, India, Indonesia, Russia, and the United States should instead alter how we perceive seeing the world—they’re not each one brand. Geographically and culturally, these sprawling realms have provincial variations that are so distinct from one another that each of these nations could subdivide into a dozen or more provinces. Exploring these bigger countries—and all countries for that matter—at a slower pace allows you to gain the insight lost in a check-the-box race. Memo: airport stopovers and daytripper cruise ship dockings are extremely weak entries. So don’t tally, stray. And let that thinking continue until the moon gets lost in the trees. One confirmation of a content soul is when his or her surroundings absorb him or her as compassionately as they absorb their surroundings. Be available for the magic, and never apologize for being streetwise, no matter how many places you’ve been. I celebrate my exploration of Canada’s ten provinces, three territories, and high arctic region—incredible diversity for one country—with far more passion than visiting every country in Western Europe, which is the size of New England. New England represents about two-percent of Canada’s landmass. Get it? Canada is our second largest country, geographically diverse, and wondrous. Head north. Speaking of wowing, because many Americans know little about Canada, our closest neighbor, while conversing with any Canuk, simply comprehending that they have 10 provinces and three territories is a feather in your cap. Less than one percent of Americans seem to know this while (guessing with my eyes open) ninety-percent of Canadians can name the 50 states. Ethnocentric Americans often fail to acknowledge that Canada is also an American country. For that matter, if you spice in Central and South America’s 19 countries there are actually 20 Americas (not including Mexico). So-called “Americans” are actually citizens of the United States of America, and it can be argued that every Caribbean island is also part of the Americas. Phew. Enough math. Go roam out of bounds. ? ? ? ? ? I hope not to end this contemplation in lecture mode, so here’s an alternative take on whereabouts… “Who’s with me on the whole ‘center sun’ theory?” —Bewildered Galileo reincarnate lecturing at Goa, India party “We are doubly landlocked.” —Smarty-pants Liechtensteiner clarifying that his homeland is surrounded only by other landlocked countries, meaning they must cross at least two borders to reach a coastline. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-08-30T15:42:57+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/ethiopia-birthplace-of-the-traveler http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/ethiopia-birthplace-of-the-traveler#When:17:52:45Z The land where civilization launched is history…still in full stride. Ethiopia is the birthplace of the traveler…among other things. Africa’s oldest royal dynasty is the turf from where humans first began moseying to other continents; the first road trippers. Most paleo–archeologists boil it down to something like this: Africans, from what is now Ethiopia, started wandering toward the Middle East. Once there, the nomads who hung a right evolved into Asians, while the drifters swerving left developed white skin; a rainbow of complexions was born in that midst. If this simplified scenario is fact, Ethiopia bore our first true itinerants; the origin of foot travel. And they certainly still like to mosey. Outside the capital city Addis Ababa, where cars are a rare luxury, walking is a way of life. The weary catch rides with donkey–cart pilots while children as young as four years old herd cattle, camels and sheep. The country that invented wandering was never colonized and isn’t remotely displeased with foreigners. Translation: Xenophobia is not in their vocabulary. The Ethiopian love for travel is sustained by nationals making both in–country spiritual pilgrimages and outbound quests to holy sites around the world. Intrinsically religious, they celebrate 150 saints days a year. The self–customized Ethiopian Orthodox Church’s fourth century origins means Ethiopia was Christian long before Europe. No need for TV evangelists to show the way. Even atheists will be astounded by the sacred, musical dedication here—an epoch soundtrack loop fills the air in every church. In Aksum’s enormous yet intimate St. Marry Church, men and women clad from head to toe in white shawls sang “The Promise” while bowing repetitively in the glimmer from epic stained glass. Words can’t describe this incredible harmony. Ethiopia remains Biblically exotic. Occupying a large part of the Horn of Africa, it is a land of geographic extremes. Ethiopia is cool, climatically and literally. Its centerpiece sits on a high plateau with grand mountain vistas saddled by green farmlands where Gondar’s castle campus dates to 1632. The walled royal enclosure reflects successive influences from India, Arabia, and a Baroque flair imported by Jesuit missionaries. Gondar Castle There were Ethiopian Muslims during the lifetime of the Prophet Mohammed. Epitomizing religious coexistence, Muslims and Christians marry and are often seen holding hands. Today, there’s also no shortage of inbound international travelers undertaking every variety of quest while enjoying ancient–bred respect. Ethiopians quietly epitomize hospitality. Ethiopian men and women have also mastered running. Ethiopian track stars own 31 world records, specializing in middle distances. Marathon man Abebe Bikila won his second Olympic gold medal in Rome, running barefoot! * * * * * Roam over to seeyouinethiopia.com. Ethiopian Airlines (flyethiopian.com) flies to Addis Ababa via Washington Dulles International Airport. The land where civilization launched is history…still in full stride. Ethiopia is the birthplace of the traveler…among other things. Africa’s oldest royal dynasty is the turf from where humans first began moseying to other continents; the first road trippers. Most paleo–archeologists boil it down to something like this: Africans, from what is now Ethiopia, started wandering toward the Middle East. Once there, the nomads who hung a right evolved into Asians, while the drifters swerving left developed white skin; a rainbow of complexions was born in that midst. If this simplified scenario is fact, Ethiopia bore our first true itinerants; the origin of foot travel. And they certainly still like to mosey. Outside the capital city Addis Ababa, where cars are a rare luxury, walking is a way of life. The weary catch rides with donkey–cart pilots while children as young as four years old herd cattle, camels and sheep. The country that invented wandering was never colonized and isn’t remotely displeased with foreigners. Translation: Xenophobia is not in their vocabulary. The Ethiopian love for travel is sustained by nationals making both in–country spiritual pilgrimages and outbound quests to holy sites around the world. Intrinsically religious, they celebrate 150 saints days a year. The self–customized Ethiopian Orthodox Church’s fourth century origins means Ethiopia was Christian long before Europe. No need for TV evangelists to show the way. Even atheists will be astounded by the sacred, musical dedication here—an epoch soundtrack loop fills the air in every church. In Aksum’s enormous yet intimate St. Marry Church, men and women clad from head to toe in white shawls sang “The Promise” while bowing repetitively in the glimmer from epic stained glass. Words can’t describe this incredible harmony. Ethiopia remains Biblically exotic. Occupying a large part of the Horn of Africa, it is a land of geographic extremes. Ethiopia is cool, climatically and literally. Its centerpiece sits on a high plateau with grand mountain vistas saddled by green farmlands where Gondar’s castle campus dates to 1632. The walled royal enclosure reflects successive influences from India, Arabia, and a Baroque flair imported by Jesuit missionaries. Gondar Castle There were Ethiopian Muslims during the lifetime of the Prophet Mohammed. Epitomizing religious coexistence, Muslims and Christians marry and are often seen holding hands. Today, there’s also no shortage of inbound international travelers undertaking every variety of quest while enjoying ancient–bred respect. Ethiopians quietly epitomize hospitality. Ethiopian men and women have also mastered running. Ethiopian track stars own 31 world records, specializing in middle distances. Marathon man Abebe Bikila won his second Olympic gold medal in Rome, running barefoot! * * * * * Roam over to seeyouinethiopia.com. Ethiopian Airlines (flyethiopian.com) flies to Addis Ababa via Washington Dulles International Airport. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-08-23T17:52:45+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/north-carolinas-high-country http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/north-carolinas-high-country#When:20:14:12Z When I was a budding freshman at Virginia’s Lynchburg College, term papers were still being pounded out on 30-pound typewriters. My fall break was a hitchhike along the entire 469-mile Blue Ridge Parkway, the meandering link between the Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains. I revisited an epic stretch of the winding, quiet two-lane road connecting Northern Virginia and Western North Carolina because this High Country is where people still run for the hills. BOONE (elevation 3,333), was once an inaccessible mountain town in Northwest North Carolina, hence “The best way to get to Boone is to be born there.” Deftly balancing old-time Southern charm and ecological sustainability, the green movement is here, and windmills are beginning to grace the undulating horizon. The former Daniel Boone hangout is home to Appalachian State University, whose football team made global headlines when they beat the University of Michigan in 2007. Thereafter, university applications tripled. Classic American Banjo Player The surrounding region is Mecca for “before ‘lectric powah” archetypal bluegrass music. There’s no need for any folk revivals here, around random corners you’ll meet people picking early American fretless banjos, accompanied by guitars, fiddles, or harmonicas. This is also ground zero for hog-calling legends and cloggers (a.k.a. country tap-dancers). The high country’s elevation keeps mosquitoes at bay, and big city worries. Dining at the Boone Drug lunch counter, a haven for satisfying artery-cement entrees and local color, I overheard two old-timers discussing America’s current economic woes. The quips included: “As crazy as a duck in a thunderstorm…” “Like eating crackers through a screen…” Joe Miller, part owner of Boone Drug and founder of Cheap Joe’s, a global art supply company, was literally born on the sidewalk under the Boone Drug sign (which makes answering ‘what sign are you?’ a cinch). The ex-pharmacist and water colorist enjoys southern-style business models where courtesy wins, not greed. Travel writer Charles Kuralt called Boone’s Mast General Store the heart and soul of the south. The multi-room store is on the National Register of Historic Places because it’s not budging from its 1884 origins. You can read a book there, or buy everything from molasses to high-tech hiking gear. ASHE COUNTY, the Christmas tree province, frequently supplies the White House’s tree. It also boasts several gems, including artsy West Jefferson, a sleepy valley town that will likely double in size by 2020 (as urbanites give up on cement), and Glendale Springs Holy Trinity Church, a stop on the Ben Long Fresco Trail that’s open for mediation 24/7. Glendale Springs Holy Trinity Church Nearby, Grassy Creek’s River House serves as a comfortable place for visitors to call home. Set on 160 acres, its nine rooms include a lavishly renovated chicken coop and a divine space previously used a cattle weigh station. It flanks the New River, one of our rare waterways, like the Nile, that flows north—and behind the Nile, is the world’s second oldest river. The epic front porch of the main house has eight rocking chairs that overlook the river, and hearken to a simpler time. Guests can opt for a leisurely downriver kayak excursion that earns them rocking chair time and a glass of fine wine. Owner Gayle Winston, a tenth generation Ashe County native and Manhattan resident and Broadway patron from 1953 to 1973, oversees the country kitchen’s gourmet dining and wine sampling in her living room. The River House defines North Carolina mountain royalty. The landscape of a county that is the second largest Christmas tree producer after the entire state of Washington strives beyond native Fraser Firs; deciduous trees are an even match for the rolling rows of conifers. Indian legends survive here because when times are rough, it helps to heed the lessons of an American civilization that survived 11,000 years. “Beware of loan wolves.” An Indian didn’t actually say that—one of the old guys in Boone Drug did. THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY evolved from President Roosevelt’s New Deal proposal for a system of parkways to link historic and beautiful sites. Local U.S. Congressman “Farmer Bob” Daughton, who served from 1911 to 1953 and chaired the powerful Ways and Means Committee, allegedly manipulated President Roosevelt’s Works Progress Administration for a New Deal deal. Daughton, whose Laurel Springs home still borders the Blue Ridge Parkway (and is a bed and breakfast called Daughton Hall), thought that Social Security would make elders lazy, but was swayed to vote for it when Roosevelt helped steer the parkway through Alleghany County instead of nearby parts of Virginia and Tennessee. Blue Ridge Parkway Ground was broken on the Blue Ridge Parkway on September 11, 1935, at Cumberland Knob in Alleghany County. The remarkable roadway was completed in 1967, though eight miles remained incomplete around foreboding Grandfather Mountain. The Linn Cove Viaduct at milepost 305, suspended along the mountain face and designed to protect the delicate environment, was not finished until September 1987. Mile-high Grandfather Mountain, a popular climb or drive offering stunning views and the option for a sandwich, also has a splendid zoo. The above-and-below water torpedo-swimming otter exhibit is one of the best zoo showcases I’ve ever seen. There’s also a panther habitat (panthers, unlike similarly sized tigers, are always one uniform color) and several compliant bears adeptly catching bear food-nuggets tossed by patrons into their mouths like they’re at a bear frat party. North Carolina’s High Country is a sprinkling of arts colonies in Blue Ridge Mountain valleys where Scots-Irish immigrants bred the legend of bluegrass and firm handshake hospitality and the tales that bless them. A detour up here definitely beats eating crackers through a screen. “When a man is happy he does not hear the clock strike.” —Scots-Irish Proverb * * * * * For more information about North Carolina’s High Country, visit www.MountainsofNC.com Boone lodging, plus things to do, are on www.ExploreBooneArea.com Joe Cafaro, born and raised in Brooklyn, has a New York deli and vintage Italian restaurant side-by-side in Boone, www.JoesItalianKitchen.com High Country wines, made from spring water and disease-free grapes, will complement any dining experience—Grandfather Winery www.grandfathervineyard.com, Thistle Meadow Winery www.thistlemeadowwinery.com, and Banner Elk Winery www.bannerelkwinery.com The River House’s annual Wine Fest is in July, www.riverhousenc.com If transiting through Charlotte, NC (they call themselves Charlotteans), check out the swank, downtown Aloft Hotel (a W property), www.aloftcharlotteuptown.com When I was a budding freshman at Virginia’s Lynchburg College, term papers were still being pounded out on 30-pound typewriters. My fall break was a hitchhike along the entire 469-mile Blue Ridge Parkway, the meandering link between the Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains. I revisited an epic stretch of the winding, quiet two-lane road connecting Northern Virginia and Western North Carolina because this High Country is where people still run for the hills. BOONE (elevation 3,333), was once an inaccessible mountain town in Northwest North Carolina, hence “The best way to get to Boone is to be born there.” Deftly balancing old-time Southern charm and ecological sustainability, the green movement is here, and windmills are beginning to grace the undulating horizon. The former Daniel Boone hangout is home to Appalachian State University, whose football team made global headlines when they beat the University of Michigan in 2007. Thereafter, university applications tripled. Classic American Banjo Player The surrounding region is Mecca for “before ‘lectric powah” archetypal bluegrass music. There’s no need for any folk revivals here, around random corners you’ll meet people picking early American fretless banjos, accompanied by guitars, fiddles, or harmonicas. This is also ground zero for hog-calling legends and cloggers (a.k.a. country tap-dancers). The high country’s elevation keeps mosquitoes at bay, and big city worries. Dining at the Boone Drug lunch counter, a haven for satisfying artery-cement entrees and local color, I overheard two old-timers discussing America’s current economic woes. The quips included: “As crazy as a duck in a thunderstorm…” “Like eating crackers through a screen…” Joe Miller, part owner of Boone Drug and founder of Cheap Joe’s, a global art supply company, was literally born on the sidewalk under the Boone Drug sign (which makes answering ‘what sign are you?’ a cinch). The ex-pharmacist and water colorist enjoys southern-style business models where courtesy wins, not greed. Travel writer Charles Kuralt called Boone’s Mast General Store the heart and soul of the south. The multi-room store is on the National Register of Historic Places because it’s not budging from its 1884 origins. You can read a book there, or buy everything from molasses to high-tech hiking gear. ASHE COUNTY, the Christmas tree province, frequently supplies the White House’s tree. It also boasts several gems, including artsy West Jefferson, a sleepy valley town that will likely double in size by 2020 (as urbanites give up on cement), and Glendale Springs Holy Trinity Church, a stop on the Ben Long Fresco Trail that’s open for mediation 24/7. Glendale Springs Holy Trinity Church Nearby, Grassy Creek’s River House serves as a comfortable place for visitors to call home. Set on 160 acres, its nine rooms include a lavishly renovated chicken coop and a divine space previously used a cattle weigh station. It flanks the New River, one of our rare waterways, like the Nile, that flows north—and behind the Nile, is the world’s second oldest river. The epic front porch of the main house has eight rocking chairs that overlook the river, and hearken to a simpler time. Guests can opt for a leisurely downriver kayak excursion that earns them rocking chair time and a glass of fine wine. Owner Gayle Winston, a tenth generation Ashe County native and Manhattan resident and Broadway patron from 1953 to 1973, oversees the country kitchen’s gourmet dining and wine sampling in her living room. The River House defines North Carolina mountain royalty. The landscape of a county that is the second largest Christmas tree producer after the entire state of Washington strives beyond native Fraser Firs; deciduous trees are an even match for the rolling rows of conifers. Indian legends survive here because when times are rough, it helps to heed the lessons of an American civilization that survived 11,000 years. “Beware of loan wolves.” An Indian didn’t actually say that—one of the old guys in Boone Drug did. THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY evolved from President Roosevelt’s New Deal proposal for a system of parkways to link historic and beautiful sites. Local U.S. Congressman “Farmer Bob” Daughton, who served from 1911 to 1953 and chaired the powerful Ways and Means Committee, allegedly manipulated President Roosevelt’s Works Progress Administration for a New Deal deal. Daughton, whose Laurel Springs home still borders the Blue Ridge Parkway (and is a bed and breakfast called Daughton Hall), thought that Social Security would make elders lazy, but was swayed to vote for it when Roosevelt helped steer the parkway through Alleghany County instead of nearby parts of Virginia and Tennessee. Blue Ridge Parkway Ground was broken on the Blue Ridge Parkway on September 11, 1935, at Cumberland Knob in Alleghany County. The remarkable roadway was completed in 1967, though eight miles remained incomplete around foreboding Grandfather Mountain. The Linn Cove Viaduct at milepost 305, suspended along the mountain face and designed to protect the delicate environment, was not finished until September 1987. Mile-high Grandfather Mountain, a popular climb or drive offering stunning views and the option for a sandwich, also has a splendid zoo. The above-and-below water torpedo-swimming otter exhibit is one of the best zoo showcases I’ve ever seen. There’s also a panther habitat (panthers, unlike similarly sized tigers, are always one uniform color) and several compliant bears adeptly catching bear food-nuggets tossed by patrons into their mouths like they’re at a bear frat party. North Carolina’s High Country is a sprinkling of arts colonies in Blue Ridge Mountain valleys where Scots-Irish immigrants bred the legend of bluegrass and firm handshake hospitality and the tales that bless them. A detour up here definitely beats eating crackers through a screen. “When a man is happy he does not hear the clock strike.” —Scots-Irish Proverb * * * * * For more information about North Carolina’s High Country, visit www.MountainsofNC.com Boone lodging, plus things to do, are on www.ExploreBooneArea.com Joe Cafaro, born and raised in Brooklyn, has a New York deli and vintage Italian restaurant side-by-side in Boone, www.JoesItalianKitchen.com High Country wines, made from spring water and disease-free grapes, will complement any dining experience—Grandfather Winery www.grandfathervineyard.com, Thistle Meadow Winery www.thistlemeadowwinery.com, and Banner Elk Winery www.bannerelkwinery.com The River House’s annual Wine Fest is in July, www.riverhousenc.com If transiting through Charlotte, NC (they call themselves Charlotteans), check out the swank, downtown Aloft Hotel (a W property), www.aloftcharlotteuptown.com Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-07-30T20:14:12+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/eat-pray-loveand-be-cautious http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/eat-pray-loveand-be-cautious#When:15:38:47Z The book Eat Pray Love issued no travel warnings; nor did the movie. However, it never hurts to remember that Halloween-night-style caution is always important, especially when traveling alone. Unfortunately, this is especially true for solo women travelers. I’m the only guy I know who read Eat Pray Love, Liz Gilbert’s wildly successful travelogue cum romance novel that became a movie starring Julia Roberts portraying the lovesick and soul-searching editor who met her second husband in Bali. As an author and veteran travel writer—130 countries explored and chronicled—my immediate instinct was to write a male version/parody entitled Roam Drink Screw. My literary agent pitched that idea unsuccessfully and a year later an Irish comedian scored with his self-discovery lampoon of Gilbert’s bible for solo women travel entitled Drink, Play, F@#k. I forgot about the Eat Pray Love phenomenon until I heard about Aubrey Sacco (a close friend of my cousin, in her twenties) from Colorado (pictured above left), who has been missing since April 2010 when she didn’t return from a solo trek in Nepal’s Himalayas. Sacco’s disappearance struck me like a lightning bolt and renewed my urge to warn women about some of the realities of eating, praying, and loving alone in foreign lands. Eat Pray Love is an entertaining read about a visit to three countries by an overburdened New Yorker who, I sense, prior to penning her travelogue, wasn’t a veteran of solo international traveling. What concerned me from the get-go is that becoming the new queen of women’s travel writing is a huge responsibility because, although we live in a world full of mostly decent people, the evil ones have a knack for targeting women roaming alone. On behalf of my books, The Frugal Globetrotter, In Search of Adventure, and Globetrotter Dogma, I’ve “lectured” far and wide about world travel on the campus circuit. Discussing travel topics like malaria, inoculations, robbery, rape, and kidnapping is serious business. My books celebrate the joy of traveling and forewarn about the dangers. I always tip my cap to my two favorite hardcore female travel writers: * Carla King, who has ridden motorcycles solo across Asia (China/India), Europe, Africa, and North America—several times. www.carlaking.com * Lisa Alpine, who in the midst of visiting 112 countries, hitched rides in canoes solo through the tributaries of the Amazon. www.lisaalpine.com These are the sort of empowered solo travel experts I’d want advising my daughter about the realities of globetrotting. Their personal tips to women traveling solo conclude this shout-out. When Gilbert’s cinema-ready narrative came out, my hunch was that it was going to inspire many women to pitch their troubles over the back fence and venture out to distant lands to reinvent their souls, and I’m all for that. However, women and men, unfortunately, still need to endure different rules while on the road. That said, many of the warnings attached to girls and boys trick-or-treating on Halloween follow us throughout our lives. Although not a guide, Eat Pray Love, now canonized, should consider adding an updated prologue and epilogue warning about the realities of roving alone—and when not to do it. I hope Eat Pray Love on the big screen didn’t motivate an army of women into possibly unsafe situations. I don’t know if Aubrey Sacco read Eat Pray Love, but she’s still missing while her father, brother, and Nepalese authorities scour a remote region of northern Nepal. Her father has offered a reward to whoever finds her. Our hearts go out to her friends and family. In June 2012, the beheaded remains of a 23-year-old Belgian hiker were discovered in that same Langtang region of Nepal. This news was on the heels of a 23-year-old American woman being threatened with rape and death by a knife-wielding man (she escaped) and the assault of a South Korean woman—also in Langtang. Aubrey Sacco’s father noted that the Belgian government put investigators on the ground in Nepal but the USA would not. * * * * * 15 TIPS FOR WOMEN TRAVELING SOLO CARLA KING’S TIPS: * Use your intuition and never talk yourself out of acting on your feelings about it by convincing yourself to “work through your fear” because you’re just being paranoid. We are animals by nature and those hackles that rise up along the back of your neck are telling you something real. * Slow down! When you’re in a hurry you’re distracted, you’re not attentive to your surroundings, and your intuition and instincts don’t have time to kick in. You are also likely to get careless, leaving things behind or misplacing items. * People often ask me if I’m “packin’.” The answer is no, because I might rely on a weapon instead of my intuition. Buy a cable lock with a motion sensor to secure your belongings. I like the Targus Defcon with retractable cable and audio alarm because you can also hang it on your hotel room door or attach it to the zipper on your tent. The alarm will sound if it’s moved, and it’s really loud! * For God’s sake, dress normally and not like a tourist just off the cruise ship. It’s not difficult to attire yourself neatly and respectfully with today’s wrinkle-free, quick-dry clothing. Learn and respect local customs. In some countries they could care less if you walk around topless, but showing your knees is verboten. * Ask. People love helping others. They just don’t have enough opportunity to do it. Enlist the help of a shopkeeper, restaurateur, or the nearest old lady if a man is bugging you. They’ll give him hell, and that’ll be that. LISA ALPINE’S TIPS * Before you go, learn at least some basic words in the native language. This will endear you to the locals—even if your communications are garbled and childlike—and can help you work your way out of a jam. * Hire a local guide who isn’t just a tourist hound but someone who can show you the insider places and who people know and respect. * Scan your passport, airline tickets, traveler’s checks, and other essential documents, and email them to yourself along with bank account and credit card account numbers. Also include international 800# contact information for all of the above and the local embassy contacts. * Don’t pull out large wads of cash when shopping or paying for hotels or meals. And don’t reveal where your valuables are stashed on your body. Calculate what you will need for spending that day and only have that amount readily accessible. * Be respectful, and hence, get respect by following cultural mores while traveling. Learn the appropriate cultural behavior for females in the regions you are traveling in. Cover your arms and hair. Don’t look men directly in the eyes. Speak in a soft voice. Use the local greeting ritual. Also learn what NOT to do. BRUCE NORTHAM’S TIPS * Cops and bartenders know their terrain better than the local chamber of commerce—and they work nights. Cordially interview them when you roll into town. Inquire about the best meal deals, zones of peril, inviting accommodations, safe strolling, camping, worthwhile attractions, and colorful hangouts. * One of your biggest allies on the road is the person who owns or manages the place where you’re staying. They’re likely not going anywhere anytime soon and should be consulted about valuables storage, shopping referrals and where not to go. As lodgers in an entertainment business where word travels fast, the last thing they want is mistreated guests. * Most suggestions I pose for women traveling solo double for men. Whether it be hiking or bar-hopping, it makes sense to band with a group that’s already traveling together, at least until you understand the lay of the land. * The first thing you pack is yourself. Then comes luggage—the less you lug, the less you’re a target for thieves. * Buy clothing with secret pockets. Check out www.scottevest.com and www.exofficio.com. Or, have hidden pockets sewn into the interiors of your clothing (which can be very inexpensive to do in many countries). * * * * * The search for Aubrey Sacco continues on http://aubreysacco.com and on Facebook.   The book Eat Pray Love issued no travel warnings; nor did the movie. However, it never hurts to remember that Halloween-night-style caution is always important, especially when traveling alone. Unfortunately, this is especially true for solo women travelers. I’m the only guy I know who read Eat Pray Love, Liz Gilbert’s wildly successful travelogue cum romance novel that became a movie starring Julia Roberts portraying the lovesick and soul-searching editor who met her second husband in Bali. As an author and veteran travel writer—130 countries explored and chronicled—my immediate instinct was to write a male version/parody entitled Roam Drink Screw. My literary agent pitched that idea unsuccessfully and a year later an Irish comedian scored with his self-discovery lampoon of Gilbert’s bible for solo women travel entitled Drink, Play, F@#k. I forgot about the Eat Pray Love phenomenon until I heard about Aubrey Sacco (a close friend of my cousin, in her twenties) from Colorado (pictured above left), who has been missing since April 2010 when she didn’t return from a solo trek in Nepal’s Himalayas. Sacco’s disappearance struck me like a lightning bolt and renewed my urge to warn women about some of the realities of eating, praying, and loving alone in foreign lands. Eat Pray Love is an entertaining read about a visit to three countries by an overburdened New Yorker who, I sense, prior to penning her travelogue, wasn’t a veteran of solo international traveling. What concerned me from the get-go is that becoming the new queen of women’s travel writing is a huge responsibility because, although we live in a world full of mostly decent people, the evil ones have a knack for targeting women roaming alone. On behalf of my books, The Frugal Globetrotter, In Search of Adventure, and Globetrotter Dogma, I’ve “lectured” far and wide about world travel on the campus circuit. Discussing travel topics like malaria, inoculations, robbery, rape, and kidnapping is serious business. My books celebrate the joy of traveling and forewarn about the dangers. I always tip my cap to my two favorite hardcore female travel writers: * Carla King, who has ridden motorcycles solo across Asia (China/India), Europe, Africa, and North America—several times. www.carlaking.com * Lisa Alpine, who in the midst of visiting 112 countries, hitched rides in canoes solo through the tributaries of the Amazon. www.lisaalpine.com These are the sort of empowered solo travel experts I’d want advising my daughter about the realities of globetrotting. Their personal tips to women traveling solo conclude this shout-out. When Gilbert’s cinema-ready narrative came out, my hunch was that it was going to inspire many women to pitch their troubles over the back fence and venture out to distant lands to reinvent their souls, and I’m all for that. However, women and men, unfortunately, still need to endure different rules while on the road. That said, many of the warnings attached to girls and boys trick-or-treating on Halloween follow us throughout our lives. Although not a guide, Eat Pray Love, now canonized, should consider adding an updated prologue and epilogue warning about the realities of roving alone—and when not to do it. I hope Eat Pray Love on the big screen didn’t motivate an army of women into possibly unsafe situations. I don’t know if Aubrey Sacco read Eat Pray Love, but she’s still missing while her father, brother, and Nepalese authorities scour a remote region of northern Nepal. Her father has offered a reward to whoever finds her. Our hearts go out to her friends and family. In June 2012, the beheaded remains of a 23-year-old Belgian hiker were discovered in that same Langtang region of Nepal. This news was on the heels of a 23-year-old American woman being threatened with rape and death by a knife-wielding man (she escaped) and the assault of a South Korean woman—also in Langtang. Aubrey Sacco’s father noted that the Belgian government put investigators on the ground in Nepal but the USA would not. * * * * * 15 TIPS FOR WOMEN TRAVELING SOLO CARLA KING’S TIPS: * Use your intuition and never talk yourself out of acting on your feelings about it by convincing yourself to “work through your fear” because you’re just being paranoid. We are animals by nature and those hackles that rise up along the back of your neck are telling you something real. * Slow down! When you’re in a hurry you’re distracted, you’re not attentive to your surroundings, and your intuition and instincts don’t have time to kick in. You are also likely to get careless, leaving things behind or misplacing items. * People often ask me if I’m “packin’.” The answer is no, because I might rely on a weapon instead of my intuition. Buy a cable lock with a motion sensor to secure your belongings. I like the Targus Defcon with retractable cable and audio alarm because you can also hang it on your hotel room door or attach it to the zipper on your tent. The alarm will sound if it’s moved, and it’s really loud! * For God’s sake, dress normally and not like a tourist just off the cruise ship. It’s not difficult to attire yourself neatly and respectfully with today’s wrinkle-free, quick-dry clothing. Learn and respect local customs. In some countries they could care less if you walk around topless, but showing your knees is verboten. * Ask. People love helping others. They just don’t have enough opportunity to do it. Enlist the help of a shopkeeper, restaurateur, or the nearest old lady if a man is bugging you. They’ll give him hell, and that’ll be that. LISA ALPINE’S TIPS * Before you go, learn at least some basic words in the native language. This will endear you to the locals—even if your communications are garbled and childlike—and can help you work your way out of a jam. * Hire a local guide who isn’t just a tourist hound but someone who can show you the insider places and who people know and respect. * Scan your passport, airline tickets, traveler’s checks, and other essential documents, and email them to yourself along with bank account and credit card account numbers. Also include international 800# contact information for all of the above and the local embassy contacts. * Don’t pull out large wads of cash when shopping or paying for hotels or meals. And don’t reveal where your valuables are stashed on your body. Calculate what you will need for spending that day and only have that amount readily accessible. * Be respectful, and hence, get respect by following cultural mores while traveling. Learn the appropriate cultural behavior for females in the regions you are traveling in. Cover your arms and hair. Don’t look men directly in the eyes. Speak in a soft voice. Use the local greeting ritual. Also learn what NOT to do. BRUCE NORTHAM’S TIPS * Cops and bartenders know their terrain better than the local chamber of commerce—and they work nights. Cordially interview them when you roll into town. Inquire about the best meal deals, zones of peril, inviting accommodations, safe strolling, camping, worthwhile attractions, and colorful hangouts. * One of your biggest allies on the road is the person who owns or manages the place where you’re staying. They’re likely not going anywhere anytime soon and should be consulted about valuables storage, shopping referrals and where not to go. As lodgers in an entertainment business where word travels fast, the last thing they want is mistreated guests. * Most suggestions I pose for women traveling solo double for men. Whether it be hiking or bar-hopping, it makes sense to band with a group that’s already traveling together, at least until you understand the lay of the land. * The first thing you pack is yourself. Then comes luggage—the less you lug, the less you’re a target for thieves. * Buy clothing with secret pockets. Check out www.scottevest.com and www.exofficio.com. Or, have hidden pockets sewn into the interiors of your clothing (which can be very inexpensive to do in many countries). * * * * * The search for Aubrey Sacco continues on http://aubreysacco.com and on Facebook.   Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-07-18T15:38:47+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/gathering-of-the-vibes http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/gathering-of-the-vibes#When:20:20:39Z Gathering of the Vibes When Grateful Dead leader Jerry Garcia passed away in 1995, he left behind millions of devoted fans—many who zigzagged across the country for decades, following the band and inspiring an inventive concert-area campout lifestyle. Since Jerry’s passing, that countercultural tribe has been dedicated to “gathering that vibe,” an annual four-day world-class music, arts, and camping festival tradition that has found a home in Bridgeport, CT. This July 19-22, headliners include former Dead frontman Bob Weir with Bruce Hornsby and Branford Marsalis, Phil Lesh & Friends, and dozens of other jam-oriented bands performing on side-by-side stages, allowing bands to play successively without interruption. Other organic, emerging bands jam on adjacent stages. * * * * * Ken Hays, Vibes founder, also started Terrapin Tapes, a Grateful Dead recording superstore. I caught up with the well-traveled Connecticut native to chat about concert-going fans dancing in Long Island Sound, and carrying on an epic American legacy that rocks beyond peace, love, and understanding. Vibes founder, Ken Hays * What do most people not know about this music festival? “There’s a heightened sense of community—and that it’s truly kid-friendly. In 2011, we had 2,000 kids under 15. We provide a teen center and the Vibes School of Rock Teen Stage, where emerging talent performs in front of thousands of people. Sunday (July 22) is family day; those under 15 come free.” * How did the Grateful Dead move a generation, and those who followed? “Different set lists each night created distinctly different shows, every time. They took chances on stage and inspired one another, which motivated a new (jam band) art form. They encouraged free recordings of their concerts, and changed the music business.” * What do you like about Bridgeport’s Seaside Park? It’s a spectacular setting 50 miles from New York City, 370 acres of waterfront beauty and a mile and a half of beach. Where else can you see people dancing in Long Island Sound? It’s a great transit hub with convenient train and bus connections, plus direct ferry service from Long Island.” * What makes Vibes different from other music festivals? “Grateful Dead frontman Jerry Garcia was equally inspired by rock, bluegrass, blues, and jazz. We’ve carried on that tradition of diversity with everything from gospel choirs to James Brown, who, by the way, was great to work with. I called him Jim, but contractually he preferred being called Mr. Brown.” * Peace, love, and entertainment aside, what is Vibes’ core message? “Come take a break from the insanity that our world is going through—in a land of contagious smiles.” * Anything else you care to share? “Gathering of the Vibes keeps the Deadhead community torch lit. Even for the many who never even saw them, it’s communal kinship for 20,000 people, per day.” * * * * * The seventeenth Gathering of the Vibes once again rocks Bridgeport’s Long Island Sound-hugging 370-acre Seaside Park with shaded groves, manicured fields, and more than a mile of beachfront. Vibes balances showcases for local artists (Deep Banana Blackout) and renowned national touring acts like Primus and The Avett Brothers. Sixties icon Wavy Gravy is the enduring Master of Ceremonies. Think Woodstock, if it had 43 years to reinvent itself. Modern groovy, diversified. In Deadhead mode, 20,000-plus enthusiasts, both campers and daily attendees, traveling from every point on the North American map, thrive within this multi-day spectacle that becomes its own universe. Last summer, this free-capitalism-with-flair environment included Pirates for Hire, a sign-carrying band of five bandana-headed outlaw guys with a knowing glint in their eyes able to right any wrong for a fee. Another sign—$1 Dank Heady Dryness—exemplifies a free market economy made easy. Everything from cocktails and healthy snacks to an expert massage is available in the campsite colonies. Karma Wash And don’t forget about the nifty Karma Wash, a human energy procession where all of your unproductive energy can be fanned away for free. Not exactly a family golf outing, the Vibe Tribe is sincerely bohemian, a no-tension festival where police sightings are rare, and the ones that are onsite are tapping a foot. This four-day, high-energy, but zero-violence camping festival with tunes lets you set your clock anywhere on the dial, or just forget about it. All frames of mind and ages are welcome. This is an ideal redefinition of what music festivals should be—bands rocking concert-goers with homegrown grooves shaped by bona fide musical geniuses. These tunes are not manufactured. * * * * * Jerry Garcia wasn’t jesting when he called the following-the-Dead phenom, “Your last chance to run away with the circus.” Prepare to dance. As the sun set on the 2008 Vibes gathering, veteran bluesman Taj Majal announced to the crowd, “The city of Bridgeport oughta get a medal for this!” Visit gatheringofthevibes.com for the chart-busting lineup and information on the July 19-22 sleepover-optional party. Close to Bridgeport Amtrak station; easy access from Long Island via the Port Jefferson ferry. Magic Hat beer provides compostable corn cups for the event, and the GreenVibes Stage is partially powered by the sun. VIP tent available. Children 12 and under will be admitted free when accompanied by a parent. * * * * * VIBES GIVING BACK: Since its inception, Gathering of the Vibes and its fans have made giving back a priority and support numerous social causes. In 2011, the Vibe Tribe donated 7,000 pounds of food to the community. In 2010, it raised $25,000 to help families of fallen Bridgeport fire fighters. The Vibe Tribe also donates to local Bridgeport charities, Connecticut Special Olympics, and many other not-for-profit organizations. The festival’s GreenVibes environmental initiatives range from an aggressive on-site recycling campaign to educating fans about current research, development, and progress being made in the field of alternative energy solutions.   Gathering of the Vibes When Grateful Dead leader Jerry Garcia passed away in 1995, he left behind millions of devoted fans—many who zigzagged across the country for decades, following the band and inspiring an inventive concert-area campout lifestyle. Since Jerry’s passing, that countercultural tribe has been dedicated to “gathering that vibe,” an annual four-day world-class music, arts, and camping festival tradition that has found a home in Bridgeport, CT. This July 19-22, headliners include former Dead frontman Bob Weir with Bruce Hornsby and Branford Marsalis, Phil Lesh & Friends, and dozens of other jam-oriented bands performing on side-by-side stages, allowing bands to play successively without interruption. Other organic, emerging bands jam on adjacent stages. * * * * * Ken Hays, Vibes founder, also started Terrapin Tapes, a Grateful Dead recording superstore. I caught up with the well-traveled Connecticut native to chat about concert-going fans dancing in Long Island Sound, and carrying on an epic American legacy that rocks beyond peace, love, and understanding. Vibes founder, Ken Hays * What do most people not know about this music festival? “There’s a heightened sense of community—and that it’s truly kid-friendly. In 2011, we had 2,000 kids under 15. We provide a teen center and the Vibes School of Rock Teen Stage, where emerging talent performs in front of thousands of people. Sunday (July 22) is family day; those under 15 come free.” * How did the Grateful Dead move a generation, and those who followed? “Different set lists each night created distinctly different shows, every time. They took chances on stage and inspired one another, which motivated a new (jam band) art form. They encouraged free recordings of their concerts, and changed the music business.” * What do you like about Bridgeport’s Seaside Park? It’s a spectacular setting 50 miles from New York City, 370 acres of waterfront beauty and a mile and a half of beach. Where else can you see people dancing in Long Island Sound? It’s a great transit hub with convenient train and bus connections, plus direct ferry service from Long Island.” * What makes Vibes different from other music festivals? “Grateful Dead frontman Jerry Garcia was equally inspired by rock, bluegrass, blues, and jazz. We’ve carried on that tradition of diversity with everything from gospel choirs to James Brown, who, by the way, was great to work with. I called him Jim, but contractually he preferred being called Mr. Brown.” * Peace, love, and entertainment aside, what is Vibes’ core message? “Come take a break from the insanity that our world is going through—in a land of contagious smiles.” * Anything else you care to share? “Gathering of the Vibes keeps the Deadhead community torch lit. Even for the many who never even saw them, it’s communal kinship for 20,000 people, per day.” * * * * * The seventeenth Gathering of the Vibes once again rocks Bridgeport’s Long Island Sound-hugging 370-acre Seaside Park with shaded groves, manicured fields, and more than a mile of beachfront. Vibes balances showcases for local artists (Deep Banana Blackout) and renowned national touring acts like Primus and The Avett Brothers. Sixties icon Wavy Gravy is the enduring Master of Ceremonies. Think Woodstock, if it had 43 years to reinvent itself. Modern groovy, diversified. In Deadhead mode, 20,000-plus enthusiasts, both campers and daily attendees, traveling from every point on the North American map, thrive within this multi-day spectacle that becomes its own universe. Last summer, this free-capitalism-with-flair environment included Pirates for Hire, a sign-carrying band of five bandana-headed outlaw guys with a knowing glint in their eyes able to right any wrong for a fee. Another sign—$1 Dank Heady Dryness—exemplifies a free market economy made easy. Everything from cocktails and healthy snacks to an expert massage is available in the campsite colonies. Karma Wash And don’t forget about the nifty Karma Wash, a human energy procession where all of your unproductive energy can be fanned away for free. Not exactly a family golf outing, the Vibe Tribe is sincerely bohemian, a no-tension festival where police sightings are rare, and the ones that are onsite are tapping a foot. This four-day, high-energy, but zero-violence camping festival with tunes lets you set your clock anywhere on the dial, or just forget about it. All frames of mind and ages are welcome. This is an ideal redefinition of what music festivals should be—bands rocking concert-goers with homegrown grooves shaped by bona fide musical geniuses. These tunes are not manufactured. * * * * * Jerry Garcia wasn’t jesting when he called the following-the-Dead phenom, “Your last chance to run away with the circus.” Prepare to dance. As the sun set on the 2008 Vibes gathering, veteran bluesman Taj Majal announced to the crowd, “The city of Bridgeport oughta get a medal for this!” Visit gatheringofthevibes.com for the chart-busting lineup and information on the July 19-22 sleepover-optional party. Close to Bridgeport Amtrak station; easy access from Long Island via the Port Jefferson ferry. Magic Hat beer provides compostable corn cups for the event, and the GreenVibes Stage is partially powered by the sun. VIP tent available. Children 12 and under will be admitted free when accompanied by a parent. * * * * * VIBES GIVING BACK: Since its inception, Gathering of the Vibes and its fans have made giving back a priority and support numerous social causes. In 2011, the Vibe Tribe donated 7,000 pounds of food to the community. In 2010, it raised $25,000 to help families of fallen Bridgeport fire fighters. The Vibe Tribe also donates to local Bridgeport charities, Connecticut Special Olympics, and many other not-for-profit organizations. The festival’s GreenVibes environmental initiatives range from an aggressive on-site recycling campaign to educating fans about current research, development, and progress being made in the field of alternative energy solutions.   Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-06-28T20:20:39+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/dont-judge-a-country-by-its-state-department-warning http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/dont-judge-a-country-by-its-state-department-warning#When:16:18:12Z I’ve met a thousand very wise lifetime travelers with unofficial PhD’s in globetrotting—and not one of them worked for the U.S. State Department. Who are these State Department folks making up most people’s minds about where it’s safe for Americans to travel? I’ve tackled this issue dozens of times in 25 years and still disagree that traveling in countries run by wicked governments, like Zimbabwe, Myanmar, and Cuba are unsafe—or irresponsible because of the notion that money spent by vacationers only reinforces a dictatorship. Critical non-political solutions to the injustice plaguing many countries will be stalled until travelers go there and connect with their people and spend money. A recurring goal of travel journalism should be challenging and disproving erroneous State Department blanket travel warnings about the world’s no-go zones. I’ve made challenging such warnings a tradition because it’s wrong to let paranoid bureaucratic generalizations eliminate tourism cash injections where they’re needed most. Theoretically forewarned, I made successive forays into Cuba, Zimbabwe, Kenya (immediately following the post-election violence), a remote Philippine mountain range, and several Arab nations, all of which proved visitor-friendly. In the midst of these ill-advised adventures, I was robbed by a vicious gun-pointing duo on New York’s Williamsburg Bridge pedestrian walkway. No municipal caveat for that? Despite severe State Department warnings against going to Syria, I went just before its (unfortunately not-yet-successful) Arab Spring, and its warm, friendly people made me feel welcome and safe. As usual, the media scoops the State Department and renders it redundant, letting us know that Syria is still a no-go. Syria…happier times Zimbabwe’s constant flood of appalling reports about starvation, 75-percent unemployment, a cholera epidemic, an abandoned currency, and the silencing of dissidents and journalists cloak at least one reality—as I found out. Africa’s Adrenalineville, the Victoria Falls region, is still open for business. Rafting on class-five rapids, bungee jumping from the world’s second highest bridge, beholding epic Victoria Falls, and giving a full-grown lion a massage was only a taste. My amazing visit doubled as targeted charity, whether in the form of tipping guides and servers, supporting local businesses, or gifting locals with staple goods. The large tips I gave to nearly every guide, driver, animal caretaker, and hotel staffer I met—those workers fortunate to still have jobs—all delivered most of that money back to their families in the other troubled parts of the country. The NGOs—and the State Department—aren’t wired that way. Zimbabwe’s Victoria Falls The U.S. lifted Zimbabwe’s travel warning which had been in place since 2002, but its horrible government continues destroying the country. However, they are not attacking or kidnapping foreigners any more than might happen in the United States. And it looks like Myanmar is heading for a more favorable status as well, which is why it’s now difficult to find accommodations there. When I explored Myanmar in the late 90s and kayaked alongside their elusive sea gypsies, accommodations were abundant and safe, countrywide. The poorest 40 percent of the world’s people share just five percent of the global income, while the wealthiest 10 percent benefit from 55 percent of it. Tourism, however small, can start redeveloping a fallen nation’s economy. When a country is politically ripped apart, only a shred of balanced news escapes. Zimbabwe’s troubles are not what typically troubles African nations: Border conflicts, in-country racial tensions, or attacks on innocent foreigners. As opposed to the corporate crime wave that consumed a chunk of America’s savings, Zimbabwe’s implosion seems to be a singular man-made crisis. The only dilemma I encountered in Cuba, by the way, was self-made. I was detained for 24 hours after arriving unannounced on a friend’s boat traveling from the Florida Keys. A reminder: Even when visiting pals, it’s good to call ahead. On a lighter note, one of my favorite parts of the world is the Philippine Cordillera, a largely inaccessible mountain region and another place I hiked into to challenge a U.S. State Department’s warning about traveling there. The crisis here is teenagers playing Mario Brothers with ill-gotten chicken-thievery booty. Modernity spelled trouble in these boondocks. A very recent drift into these far-flung communities was solar-powered DVDs—the first import to inspire a crime wave. For the first time in oral history, elementary school kids were caught stealing (chickens, mostly) to finance insidious DVD addictions. Various town meetings addressing this nefarious dilemma determined that the punishment should fit the crime. The penalty for busted kid-robbers was caring for the free-ranging chickens, night and day. And there they would be, sulking through the night, dreaming of their joysticks, silhouetted by a background that could pass for the Blue Ridge Mountains. In the end, these were the most notorious rapscallions in a rugged terrain thought to be worthy of a State Department warning. Filipino farmhands watching the rice grow—acting as human scarecrows in Ifugao Province I respect and appreciate our government’s efforts to keep us safe and perceive its blanket protection approach as similar to a doctor’s malpractice insurance. But I’m hoping that a more humanely informed State Department can better realize the severity of its statements. Don’t let the 24-hour news cycle, generic travel warnings, or your fear of the unknown limit your scope of the world. Heed what’s revealed by unlikely sages in far-flung places, and just down the road from you. I’ve met a thousand very wise lifetime travelers with unofficial PhD’s in globetrotting—and not one of them worked for the U.S. State Department. Who are these State Department folks making up most people’s minds about where it’s safe for Americans to travel? I’ve tackled this issue dozens of times in 25 years and still disagree that traveling in countries run by wicked governments, like Zimbabwe, Myanmar, and Cuba are unsafe—or irresponsible because of the notion that money spent by vacationers only reinforces a dictatorship. Critical non-political solutions to the injustice plaguing many countries will be stalled until travelers go there and connect with their people and spend money. A recurring goal of travel journalism should be challenging and disproving erroneous State Department blanket travel warnings about the world’s no-go zones. I’ve made challenging such warnings a tradition because it’s wrong to let paranoid bureaucratic generalizations eliminate tourism cash injections where they’re needed most. Theoretically forewarned, I made successive forays into Cuba, Zimbabwe, Kenya (immediately following the post-election violence), a remote Philippine mountain range, and several Arab nations, all of which proved visitor-friendly. In the midst of these ill-advised adventures, I was robbed by a vicious gun-pointing duo on New York’s Williamsburg Bridge pedestrian walkway. No municipal caveat for that? Despite severe State Department warnings against going to Syria, I went just before its (unfortunately not-yet-successful) Arab Spring, and its warm, friendly people made me feel welcome and safe. As usual, the media scoops the State Department and renders it redundant, letting us know that Syria is still a no-go. Syria…happier times Zimbabwe’s constant flood of appalling reports about starvation, 75-percent unemployment, a cholera epidemic, an abandoned currency, and the silencing of dissidents and journalists cloak at least one reality—as I found out. Africa’s Adrenalineville, the Victoria Falls region, is still open for business. Rafting on class-five rapids, bungee jumping from the world’s second highest bridge, beholding epic Victoria Falls, and giving a full-grown lion a massage was only a taste. My amazing visit doubled as targeted charity, whether in the form of tipping guides and servers, supporting local businesses, or gifting locals with staple goods. The large tips I gave to nearly every guide, driver, animal caretaker, and hotel staffer I met—those workers fortunate to still have jobs—all delivered most of that money back to their families in the other troubled parts of the country. The NGOs—and the State Department—aren’t wired that way. Zimbabwe’s Victoria Falls The U.S. lifted Zimbabwe’s travel warning which had been in place since 2002, but its horrible government continues destroying the country. However, they are not attacking or kidnapping foreigners any more than might happen in the United States. And it looks like Myanmar is heading for a more favorable status as well, which is why it’s now difficult to find accommodations there. When I explored Myanmar in the late 90s and kayaked alongside their elusive sea gypsies, accommodations were abundant and safe, countrywide. The poorest 40 percent of the world’s people share just five percent of the global income, while the wealthiest 10 percent benefit from 55 percent of it. Tourism, however small, can start redeveloping a fallen nation’s economy. When a country is politically ripped apart, only a shred of balanced news escapes. Zimbabwe’s troubles are not what typically troubles African nations: Border conflicts, in-country racial tensions, or attacks on innocent foreigners. As opposed to the corporate crime wave that consumed a chunk of America’s savings, Zimbabwe’s implosion seems to be a singular man-made crisis. The only dilemma I encountered in Cuba, by the way, was self-made. I was detained for 24 hours after arriving unannounced on a friend’s boat traveling from the Florida Keys. A reminder: Even when visiting pals, it’s good to call ahead. On a lighter note, one of my favorite parts of the world is the Philippine Cordillera, a largely inaccessible mountain region and another place I hiked into to challenge a U.S. State Department’s warning about traveling there. The crisis here is teenagers playing Mario Brothers with ill-gotten chicken-thievery booty. Modernity spelled trouble in these boondocks. A very recent drift into these far-flung communities was solar-powered DVDs—the first import to inspire a crime wave. For the first time in oral history, elementary school kids were caught stealing (chickens, mostly) to finance insidious DVD addictions. Various town meetings addressing this nefarious dilemma determined that the punishment should fit the crime. The penalty for busted kid-robbers was caring for the free-ranging chickens, night and day. And there they would be, sulking through the night, dreaming of their joysticks, silhouetted by a background that could pass for the Blue Ridge Mountains. In the end, these were the most notorious rapscallions in a rugged terrain thought to be worthy of a State Department warning. Filipino farmhands watching the rice grow—acting as human scarecrows in Ifugao Province I respect and appreciate our government’s efforts to keep us safe and perceive its blanket protection approach as similar to a doctor’s malpractice insurance. But I’m hoping that a more humanely informed State Department can better realize the severity of its statements. Don’t let the 24-hour news cycle, generic travel warnings, or your fear of the unknown limit your scope of the world. Heed what’s revealed by unlikely sages in far-flung places, and just down the road from you. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-06-12T16:18:12+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/waking-from-a-cruise-coma http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/waking-from-a-cruise-coma#When:16:21:48Z Some guys have all the luck. [Take one] Reclined upon a massage table in a dimly-lit spa, swabbed head-to-toe in seaweedy goop, then mummy-wrapped in a healing tinfoil sarcophagus. [Take two] Dribbling across a basketball court, lofting hook shots against a sweet marine breeze on the upper deck of a cruise ship that couldn’t squeeze into Yankee Stadium. [Take three] Wedding-style gourmet banquet shenanigans, again. My luxury supertanker for the week, the Sea Princess, is touring the incomparable Alaskan Gulf and Inside Passage. The sailing week of a two-week land and sea tour that first railed and bused overland from Fairbanks to Seward, Alaska, then cruised to Vancouver. I inhabited a “state room” with a balcony, wherefore, while reclining in bed, a slight tilt of my pillow-propped head transformed my view from a Knicks playoff game to a promenade of glacially enchanted mountains gracefully gliding past my open sliding-glass door. Hither to, I proclaimed that the cash tendered cruising could be budgeted for months of gallivanting through India or Indonesia, where daily beach massages, laundry service and grass-domed beach-hut sunset cocktails are within means. But this is a float through Alaska, with port visits in Skagway, Juneau, and Ketchikan—whose surprisingly mild climate parallels Boston’s, year-round. The port calls provide remarkable opportunities to whitewater raft, ride antique trains up steep mountainsides, helicopter or small plane flightsee over or onto glaciers, and tour village tavern life. Although Helicopter flight seeing tours—many of which land upon remote glaciers—create environmental problems (i.e., noise and air pollution), it’s the opportunity of a lifetime for a one vacation per year family to visit wilderness. Every one of the helicopter and small plane pilots I flew with kept their distance to avoid startling wildlife. Land tours include whitewater rafting with authentic, down to earth guides on the Kenai River and late June “combat” salmon fishing, where the riverbank crowd resembles Times Square at lunchtime. This was no hipster singles foray. How does a single, backpacker-indoctrinated, fortyish travel writer hit holiday stride on a cruise that’s bursting at the seams with fifty-plus twosomes savoring the vacation of a lifetime? A recovering Manhattanite accustomed to on-demand tomfoolery, I partook in the dazzling continuum of activities (one of them slightly illegal), befriended crew musicians, and binged on soup. Legal activities include mingling in the disco, lounging in two piano bars, rapidly ingesting soft ice cream, shuffleboard, a shopping mall-sized movie theater, a jogging track around the ship’s perimeter, ping pong, on-deck pools and Jacuzzis, a blues music tavern, off-Broadway worthy musicals, nature lectures by US Park Service employees, and all night buffet snacking. Though I’m not sure if it was officially sanctioned by the ship, an amateur video camera convention was also underway. Throngs of crusiewear-clad men zooming, panning, and reeling their videocams about the vessel as if they were indispensable to their vision. Invariably, two filmmaker journeymen would discover one another, index the milestone, then pan away. I unearthed the passenger-forbidden crew bar, a lawless zone where if you encounter barroom disquiet, your case will be judged under Liberian law. (Liberia is Africa’s floundering attempt at a slave repatriation country, and one of the most corrupt governments on earth). Registering cruise ships in Liberia is a bargain. The literally underwater crew bar is a smoke-fogged, window-free, steel-hulled, army baseish joint, workingman’s hangout where the musicians, cooks, beauticians, maids and Cartier peddlers mingle in thick smoke and 1950’s Wisconsin beer prices. The crew make up one-third of the 3,000 people on board and this is where they let their hair down. Only a percentage of the international crew are allowed above deck into the guest zone. The trick was pretending to be one of the ship entertainers. This really is a no-no so don’t try it unless you can find a crewmember to be your accomplice. Pardon the tangent, and please note that Sea Princess is now under British registry. Sailing south, the Canadian highlight of the cruise was a detour into Glacier Bay National Park. Seafaring visits into the park are restricted. Upon sailing into the center of the bay, the ship began pirouetting within the glacier-calving amphitheater amid Empire State Building-shaped glaciers descend down rugged valleys and creep yards per year (this adds up between ice ages). Bus-sized pieces of the glacier’s bay-fronting faces broke off every couple of minutes and crashed into the rich blue water, creating mini tidal waves that rocked the ship. The ship spun slowly, taking in a full 360-degree panoramic mountain-scape and an endless sea of floating glacial debris, many doubling as sun decks for seal and otter families. Although no newbie, the ship is a spectacle, an urban buoy. Sea Princess is 77,000?tons, 14 stories tall and 856 feet long. She carries 1,950 passengers. The engines create a megawatt buzz that would come in handy if your city blacked out. When cruise ships of such tonnage pull into these small Alaskan coastal towns, it betokens linking a small economy to thousands of hemorrhaging wallets. The landfall buying blitz is bounty time for Stuffed Moose (Taiwan), wood-carved owls (local), Eskimo statuettes (Peru), gold rush jewelry (local) and soiled doves—the ghost of prostitutes who flocked to Skagway and other instantaneously assembled towns to accommo‘date’ nineteenth century gold seekers. What ranks this Alaskan and Canadian cruise supreme is that nature always awaits: bald eagles as plentiful as Central Park pigeons, black bear and whales top the list. Outside Ketchikan on a tangential Misty Fjords wilderness cruise, I saw two black bears and ten eagles munching on a beached humpback. The presence of bears implies a regions’ wildness; this part of the world is one of their last holdouts. At any given moment you can step outside and take in the massive, river-like, mountain-flanked Inside Passage.  The night owls gather at the stern for a chat while the early birds snooze down below. * * * The first week of this itinerary is land-based and savors summer light until 11pm in surprisingly mild temperatures. One highlight was the Fairbanks-Denali, Midnight Sun Express train ride: big windows, glass ceilings and beer-aplenty while railing through a series of National Geographic glossies. Another jawdropper was bus touring into Denali National Park. The driver/guide may have been a Will Rodgers reincarnate. Weather permitting, we beheld 20,000’ Mt. McKinley, which actually has a statistical edge on Everest. What separates McKinley from other glacier and snow-capped mammoths on the planet is its 18,000 rise from a 2000’ plateau. Everest rises “only” 10,000’ from the Tibetan plateau.16 of the 20 highest mountains in the U.S. are in Alaska. The Princess lodges in Fairbanks, Denali, McKinley and Kenai maintains the elegance of high-end Colorado ski resorts without the attitude. With ample time to wander and discover the backside of our land and sea-based stopovers, I accredited my Alaska native vs. new resident theorem: is that pierce-eyeing, brew-hounding rogue over there sporting a beard, baseball cap and flannel shirt with an “I own dis town” mentality a typical native, or is that an identity crisis escaped from the lower 48? Native Alaskans, many who shave and articulate clearly, find it amusing that a fair majority of the local frontiersmen squalling in the taverns tend to have immigrated from down under within the year. Sorry rookies; snarl on. Skagway is a touristy “gold rush” town that still manages a Wild West flavor. A long walk and two games of pool later, my Skagway helicopter excursion landed on Chillkat and Fairabee glaciers, the stunning terrain surrounding the latter resembling California’s Yosemite terminus. In fact, Yosemite preservation champion, John Muir, came to Alaska to prove his theory that Yosemite was glacially carved (it was). * * * Cruisers are stereotyped by backpackers, adventure travelers and other no-itinerary wanderers as soft and overfed, but the combination of relaxed simplicity and staggering natural beauty on tap is a worthy value for even budget conscious vacationers. Whether it be whales at play, screw-the-diet heaven, sipping cocktails in one of the two pools or six open-air jacuzzis, or shaking your bootie in the disco, this Love Boat is a doozy. I never cracked my book. This skeptic sailed home well fed and lofting a reinvented hook shot.  Discovering a drifting city with constantly changing, epic scenery is an adventure. Montana’s Glacier National Park will soon be completely melted. There are accessible glaciers in Norway and Patagonia, though getting there is quite an undertaking. Clanking down her gangplank for the last time, I trusted that one-in-a-hundred cruises couldn’t compete with the Alaskan Gulf and Inside Passage. If you’re not cringing every time you eyeball an ATM receipt, consider it. If the idea of an all-inclusive floating skyscraper-resort serving gourmet meals and 24-hour roof access to discover some of Northam America’s premiere scenery sounds indulging—go. Visit princess.com. * * * * Everyone I met on the cruise was friendly, except my next door neighbor, a smarm from Boston and the repressor of all joy. He reprimanded me in the hall for talking too fast, twice, and I wasn’t even talking to him. So at every opportunity I hung a Do Not Disturb sign on his door. He complained that his room was only made up once that week. * “The odds are good but the goods are odd.” –Tavern owner Grizzly Annie’s coined retort (bark) rethinking Alaska’s disproportionately high male population ratio. * In bed, I glanced away from the passing cotillion of glacier-blessed mountains and back at the Knicks game to behold an obstacle between the bed and the TV—my stomach in full bloom. Then realized, under Liberian Law, it was dinnertime. * Alaskans reflect on only three seasons: winter, breakup and road construction. * The Exxon Valdez was repaired in Malta (was there, saw it), renamed the Mediterranean Sea River, and attempted a return to Prince William Sound. When the word got out this tanker had returned to the scene of the crime—still without a double hull—it sailed elsewhere. Some guys have all the luck. [Take one] Reclined upon a massage table in a dimly-lit spa, swabbed head-to-toe in seaweedy goop, then mummy-wrapped in a healing tinfoil sarcophagus. [Take two] Dribbling across a basketball court, lofting hook shots against a sweet marine breeze on the upper deck of a cruise ship that couldn’t squeeze into Yankee Stadium. [Take three] Wedding-style gourmet banquet shenanigans, again. My luxury supertanker for the week, the Sea Princess, is touring the incomparable Alaskan Gulf and Inside Passage. The sailing week of a two-week land and sea tour that first railed and bused overland from Fairbanks to Seward, Alaska, then cruised to Vancouver. I inhabited a “state room” with a balcony, wherefore, while reclining in bed, a slight tilt of my pillow-propped head transformed my view from a Knicks playoff game to a promenade of glacially enchanted mountains gracefully gliding past my open sliding-glass door. Hither to, I proclaimed that the cash tendered cruising could be budgeted for months of gallivanting through India or Indonesia, where daily beach massages, laundry service and grass-domed beach-hut sunset cocktails are within means. But this is a float through Alaska, with port visits in Skagway, Juneau, and Ketchikan—whose surprisingly mild climate parallels Boston’s, year-round. The port calls provide remarkable opportunities to whitewater raft, ride antique trains up steep mountainsides, helicopter or small plane flightsee over or onto glaciers, and tour village tavern life. Although Helicopter flight seeing tours—many of which land upon remote glaciers—create environmental problems (i.e., noise and air pollution), it’s the opportunity of a lifetime for a one vacation per year family to visit wilderness. Every one of the helicopter and small plane pilots I flew with kept their distance to avoid startling wildlife. Land tours include whitewater rafting with authentic, down to earth guides on the Kenai River and late June “combat” salmon fishing, where the riverbank crowd resembles Times Square at lunchtime. This was no hipster singles foray. How does a single, backpacker-indoctrinated, fortyish travel writer hit holiday stride on a cruise that’s bursting at the seams with fifty-plus twosomes savoring the vacation of a lifetime? A recovering Manhattanite accustomed to on-demand tomfoolery, I partook in the dazzling continuum of activities (one of them slightly illegal), befriended crew musicians, and binged on soup. Legal activities include mingling in the disco, lounging in two piano bars, rapidly ingesting soft ice cream, shuffleboard, a shopping mall-sized movie theater, a jogging track around the ship’s perimeter, ping pong, on-deck pools and Jacuzzis, a blues music tavern, off-Broadway worthy musicals, nature lectures by US Park Service employees, and all night buffet snacking. Though I’m not sure if it was officially sanctioned by the ship, an amateur video camera convention was also underway. Throngs of crusiewear-clad men zooming, panning, and reeling their videocams about the vessel as if they were indispensable to their vision. Invariably, two filmmaker journeymen would discover one another, index the milestone, then pan away. I unearthed the passenger-forbidden crew bar, a lawless zone where if you encounter barroom disquiet, your case will be judged under Liberian law. (Liberia is Africa’s floundering attempt at a slave repatriation country, and one of the most corrupt governments on earth). Registering cruise ships in Liberia is a bargain. The literally underwater crew bar is a smoke-fogged, window-free, steel-hulled, army baseish joint, workingman’s hangout where the musicians, cooks, beauticians, maids and Cartier peddlers mingle in thick smoke and 1950’s Wisconsin beer prices. The crew make up one-third of the 3,000 people on board and this is where they let their hair down. Only a percentage of the international crew are allowed above deck into the guest zone. The trick was pretending to be one of the ship entertainers. This really is a no-no so don’t try it unless you can find a crewmember to be your accomplice. Pardon the tangent, and please note that Sea Princess is now under British registry. Sailing south, the Canadian highlight of the cruise was a detour into Glacier Bay National Park. Seafaring visits into the park are restricted. Upon sailing into the center of the bay, the ship began pirouetting within the glacier-calving amphitheater amid Empire State Building-shaped glaciers descend down rugged valleys and creep yards per year (this adds up between ice ages). Bus-sized pieces of the glacier’s bay-fronting faces broke off every couple of minutes and crashed into the rich blue water, creating mini tidal waves that rocked the ship. The ship spun slowly, taking in a full 360-degree panoramic mountain-scape and an endless sea of floating glacial debris, many doubling as sun decks for seal and otter families. Although no newbie, the ship is a spectacle, an urban buoy. Sea Princess is 77,000?tons, 14 stories tall and 856 feet long. She carries 1,950 passengers. The engines create a megawatt buzz that would come in handy if your city blacked out. When cruise ships of such tonnage pull into these small Alaskan coastal towns, it betokens linking a small economy to thousands of hemorrhaging wallets. The landfall buying blitz is bounty time for Stuffed Moose (Taiwan), wood-carved owls (local), Eskimo statuettes (Peru), gold rush jewelry (local) and soiled doves—the ghost of prostitutes who flocked to Skagway and other instantaneously assembled towns to accommo‘date’ nineteenth century gold seekers. What ranks this Alaskan and Canadian cruise supreme is that nature always awaits: bald eagles as plentiful as Central Park pigeons, black bear and whales top the list. Outside Ketchikan on a tangential Misty Fjords wilderness cruise, I saw two black bears and ten eagles munching on a beached humpback. The presence of bears implies a regions’ wildness; this part of the world is one of their last holdouts. At any given moment you can step outside and take in the massive, river-like, mountain-flanked Inside Passage.  The night owls gather at the stern for a chat while the early birds snooze down below. * * * The first week of this itinerary is land-based and savors summer light until 11pm in surprisingly mild temperatures. One highlight was the Fairbanks-Denali, Midnight Sun Express train ride: big windows, glass ceilings and beer-aplenty while railing through a series of National Geographic glossies. Another jawdropper was bus touring into Denali National Park. The driver/guide may have been a Will Rodgers reincarnate. Weather permitting, we beheld 20,000’ Mt. McKinley, which actually has a statistical edge on Everest. What separates McKinley from other glacier and snow-capped mammoths on the planet is its 18,000 rise from a 2000’ plateau. Everest rises “only” 10,000’ from the Tibetan plateau.16 of the 20 highest mountains in the U.S. are in Alaska. The Princess lodges in Fairbanks, Denali, McKinley and Kenai maintains the elegance of high-end Colorado ski resorts without the attitude. With ample time to wander and discover the backside of our land and sea-based stopovers, I accredited my Alaska native vs. new resident theorem: is that pierce-eyeing, brew-hounding rogue over there sporting a beard, baseball cap and flannel shirt with an “I own dis town” mentality a typical native, or is that an identity crisis escaped from the lower 48? Native Alaskans, many who shave and articulate clearly, find it amusing that a fair majority of the local frontiersmen squalling in the taverns tend to have immigrated from down under within the year. Sorry rookies; snarl on. Skagway is a touristy “gold rush” town that still manages a Wild West flavor. A long walk and two games of pool later, my Skagway helicopter excursion landed on Chillkat and Fairabee glaciers, the stunning terrain surrounding the latter resembling California’s Yosemite terminus. In fact, Yosemite preservation champion, John Muir, came to Alaska to prove his theory that Yosemite was glacially carved (it was). * * * Cruisers are stereotyped by backpackers, adventure travelers and other no-itinerary wanderers as soft and overfed, but the combination of relaxed simplicity and staggering natural beauty on tap is a worthy value for even budget conscious vacationers. Whether it be whales at play, screw-the-diet heaven, sipping cocktails in one of the two pools or six open-air jacuzzis, or shaking your bootie in the disco, this Love Boat is a doozy. I never cracked my book. This skeptic sailed home well fed and lofting a reinvented hook shot.  Discovering a drifting city with constantly changing, epic scenery is an adventure. Montana’s Glacier National Park will soon be completely melted. There are accessible glaciers in Norway and Patagonia, though getting there is quite an undertaking. Clanking down her gangplank for the last time, I trusted that one-in-a-hundred cruises couldn’t compete with the Alaskan Gulf and Inside Passage. If you’re not cringing every time you eyeball an ATM receipt, consider it. If the idea of an all-inclusive floating skyscraper-resort serving gourmet meals and 24-hour roof access to discover some of Northam America’s premiere scenery sounds indulging—go. Visit princess.com. * * * * Everyone I met on the cruise was friendly, except my next door neighbor, a smarm from Boston and the repressor of all joy. He reprimanded me in the hall for talking too fast, twice, and I wasn’t even talking to him. So at every opportunity I hung a Do Not Disturb sign on his door. He complained that his room was only made up once that week. * “The odds are good but the goods are odd.” –Tavern owner Grizzly Annie’s coined retort (bark) rethinking Alaska’s disproportionately high male population ratio. * In bed, I glanced away from the passing cotillion of glacier-blessed mountains and back at the Knicks game to behold an obstacle between the bed and the TV—my stomach in full bloom. Then realized, under Liberian Law, it was dinnertime. * Alaskans reflect on only three seasons: winter, breakup and road construction. * The Exxon Valdez was repaired in Malta (was there, saw it), renamed the Mediterranean Sea River, and attempted a return to Prince William Sound. When the word got out this tanker had returned to the scene of the crime—still without a double hull—it sailed elsewhere. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-05-30T16:21:48+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/is-martha-stewart-judging http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/is-martha-stewart-judging#When:16:57:52Z Why is requesting and consuming well-done red meat considered to be a felony by people who prefer it rare? No stranger to fine dining worldwide via travel journalism, I’m routinely alarmed by rare beef aficionados who never hesitate to glare contemptuously at well-done meat eaters as executable heathens. It seems as rude as someone approaching a stranger wearing pink and stating, without cause, “That color makes you look disgusting.” I’ve never met a browned beefeater who felt compelled to belittle fans of pink cow on a plate. Why is this transmission of cuisine contempt a one-way street? Is preferring beef that tiptoes toward bacon—instead of raw bloodied cannibal mode—a culinary crime? I’ve ingested underdone parasitic meat before and never want to court that gamble again. And oh yeah, I think it tastes better cooked. So, I decided to do something about this state of animal protein affairs at a recent international hotel media lunch in New York City. I cordially sent back the gorgeous filet of prime beef poached in olive oil that was served for a tad of browning. As usual, someone at my table, a Martha Stewart Living radio personality, leered scornfully at me and announced, “Why ruin a perfect piece of meat? Anyone who wants well-done beef at my house is on their own.” Nice to meet you, too? Roast challenger number 5,000 was the lucky winner of my bottled rant. My first instinct was to approach her later and point to her not-bad-looking shirt and inquire, “Seems like someone likes to buy clothes at K-Mart?” I’d hit my breaking point and wanted to enlighten the self-elected food lord about how it feels to be on the other end of an unprovoked judgment. Instead, when a microphone was passed around to the media to ask the celebrity chef questions, now amplified, I started, “The meal was incredible and that was a dazzling cut of meat.” Then, after a peripheral glint at the carnivore umpire, I continued, “When I sent mine back to the kitchen for a slight browning, someone at my table peered at me as if I should be beheaded. Is that proper behavior in a humane society?” Message sent, I got a laugh, and the chef mused about options for caramelizing filets. I’m not inexperienced regarding food and not just because I’ve eaten pretty much every day of my life. I’ve gone without it for three days while in a Utah desert survival school, only to regurgitate the contents of my stomach after my first opportunity to consume—the liver of a sheep I’d just slaughtered and cooked on a fire started without matches. Liver and most organ meats are the only rations on my no-go list. But the only thing I don’t like about liver eaters is their breath. I’ve sipped malbecs infused with glacial ice in Antarctica while watching whales breach and spent days deep in the rice-terraced Northern Philippine mountains inside small huts with elders whose job is watching food grow 24-hours a day, so they can fend off thieving “rice-birds.” I’ve devoured gourmet moqueca in a five-star penthouse overlooking Rio, sampled open-fire cooked game in Zimbabwe, and had dinner delivered to my room—where the previous guest was the Queen—in an English countryside castle. My new pal may live the Martha Stewart life, but I’ve lived too. Did I mention enjoying 10 different types of hummus in a friendly Syrian home, testing mofongo (mashed plantains seasoned with seafood, chicken, or beef) at a breezy seaside Puerto Rican food festival with three of the island’s top chefs, or sharing fries with Journey’s Filipino lead singer in Manila’s Hard Rock Café? Are you bored yet?—caviar at a private dinner in Russia’s Kremlin, hearty bean soup with a Bolivian family who grew the ingredients, Scottish delicacies in the manor owned by the family who invented Glenlivet, and sautéed char while floating near the North Pole in sight of polar bears. When I ask most self-proclaimed foodies—the types most prone to insult brunette beef—if they’ve ever worked in a restaurant, the answer is almost always no. Starting at age 15, I spent 10 years working in reputable restaurants. That didn’t verse me in the truffle shuffle, but it taught me to discuss food with the pros, namely chefs. Since then, I’ve been contracted by several publications to review restaurants—not posing as a foodie, instead perceiving restaurants as travel destinations. If you don’t fit inside the box, climb on top of it and have a good look around. Or head south—I’ve enjoyed dining with peers in Argentina and Uruguay, pinnacles of fine beef, where fully cooked meat isn’t frowned upon, and often preferred. I can draw another comparison to this insidious ilk of seesaw bullying—where the heavier kid stays amused by dangling the lighter kid, unaided in mid-air. My Dell laptop has been humming on bumpy roads for 10 years. I’ve never ogled someone pecking away at a Mac and consulted them starting with the word ew. Reverse this brand scenario and the condescension seesaw tilts only one way. So, beware rare meat connoisseurs, next time you think about insulting someone who likes his or her meat cooked through, think about that pink outfit, your shirt, and your manners. While dining in an Andy Warhol-themed restaurant in Slovakia, a diplomat shared a time-tested Slovak maxim: “He who digs a hole for someone else will fall into it themselves.” Something else fell into that hole, and it surely wasn’t anything well-done. No hard feelings Martha Stewart Living radio lady—I guess a steakhouse reunion is out of the question. Why is requesting and consuming well-done red meat considered to be a felony by people who prefer it rare? No stranger to fine dining worldwide via travel journalism, I’m routinely alarmed by rare beef aficionados who never hesitate to glare contemptuously at well-done meat eaters as executable heathens. It seems as rude as someone approaching a stranger wearing pink and stating, without cause, “That color makes you look disgusting.” I’ve never met a browned beefeater who felt compelled to belittle fans of pink cow on a plate. Why is this transmission of cuisine contempt a one-way street? Is preferring beef that tiptoes toward bacon—instead of raw bloodied cannibal mode—a culinary crime? I’ve ingested underdone parasitic meat before and never want to court that gamble again. And oh yeah, I think it tastes better cooked. So, I decided to do something about this state of animal protein affairs at a recent international hotel media lunch in New York City. I cordially sent back the gorgeous filet of prime beef poached in olive oil that was served for a tad of browning. As usual, someone at my table, a Martha Stewart Living radio personality, leered scornfully at me and announced, “Why ruin a perfect piece of meat? Anyone who wants well-done beef at my house is on their own.” Nice to meet you, too? Roast challenger number 5,000 was the lucky winner of my bottled rant. My first instinct was to approach her later and point to her not-bad-looking shirt and inquire, “Seems like someone likes to buy clothes at K-Mart?” I’d hit my breaking point and wanted to enlighten the self-elected food lord about how it feels to be on the other end of an unprovoked judgment. Instead, when a microphone was passed around to the media to ask the celebrity chef questions, now amplified, I started, “The meal was incredible and that was a dazzling cut of meat.” Then, after a peripheral glint at the carnivore umpire, I continued, “When I sent mine back to the kitchen for a slight browning, someone at my table peered at me as if I should be beheaded. Is that proper behavior in a humane society?” Message sent, I got a laugh, and the chef mused about options for caramelizing filets. I’m not inexperienced regarding food and not just because I’ve eaten pretty much every day of my life. I’ve gone without it for three days while in a Utah desert survival school, only to regurgitate the contents of my stomach after my first opportunity to consume—the liver of a sheep I’d just slaughtered and cooked on a fire started without matches. Liver and most organ meats are the only rations on my no-go list. But the only thing I don’t like about liver eaters is their breath. I’ve sipped malbecs infused with glacial ice in Antarctica while watching whales breach and spent days deep in the rice-terraced Northern Philippine mountains inside small huts with elders whose job is watching food grow 24-hours a day, so they can fend off thieving “rice-birds.” I’ve devoured gourmet moqueca in a five-star penthouse overlooking Rio, sampled open-fire cooked game in Zimbabwe, and had dinner delivered to my room—where the previous guest was the Queen—in an English countryside castle. My new pal may live the Martha Stewart life, but I’ve lived too. Did I mention enjoying 10 different types of hummus in a friendly Syrian home, testing mofongo (mashed plantains seasoned with seafood, chicken, or beef) at a breezy seaside Puerto Rican food festival with three of the island’s top chefs, or sharing fries with Journey’s Filipino lead singer in Manila’s Hard Rock Café? Are you bored yet?—caviar at a private dinner in Russia’s Kremlin, hearty bean soup with a Bolivian family who grew the ingredients, Scottish delicacies in the manor owned by the family who invented Glenlivet, and sautéed char while floating near the North Pole in sight of polar bears. When I ask most self-proclaimed foodies—the types most prone to insult brunette beef—if they’ve ever worked in a restaurant, the answer is almost always no. Starting at age 15, I spent 10 years working in reputable restaurants. That didn’t verse me in the truffle shuffle, but it taught me to discuss food with the pros, namely chefs. Since then, I’ve been contracted by several publications to review restaurants—not posing as a foodie, instead perceiving restaurants as travel destinations. If you don’t fit inside the box, climb on top of it and have a good look around. Or head south—I’ve enjoyed dining with peers in Argentina and Uruguay, pinnacles of fine beef, where fully cooked meat isn’t frowned upon, and often preferred. I can draw another comparison to this insidious ilk of seesaw bullying—where the heavier kid stays amused by dangling the lighter kid, unaided in mid-air. My Dell laptop has been humming on bumpy roads for 10 years. I’ve never ogled someone pecking away at a Mac and consulted them starting with the word ew. Reverse this brand scenario and the condescension seesaw tilts only one way. So, beware rare meat connoisseurs, next time you think about insulting someone who likes his or her meat cooked through, think about that pink outfit, your shirt, and your manners. While dining in an Andy Warhol-themed restaurant in Slovakia, a diplomat shared a time-tested Slovak maxim: “He who digs a hole for someone else will fall into it themselves.” Something else fell into that hole, and it surely wasn’t anything well-done. No hard feelings Martha Stewart Living radio lady—I guess a steakhouse reunion is out of the question. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-05-15T16:57:52+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/slovakia-small-country-big-outlookdiscover-the-new-heart-of-europe http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/slovakia-small-country-big-outlookdiscover-the-new-heart-of-europe#When:16:25:04Z Slovakia inherited some of the best aspects of its five neighbors, enjoying Czech-style brewing, Polish diligence, Austrian architecture, Ukrainian good looks, and Hungarian stews. The one thing Slovakia can claim outright is the fact that it’s an undiscovered travel jewel. Culturally and geographical diverse, it’s simply a beautiful bargain. Spis Castle’s security guard Want to experience classic Europe for a third of the price? Here’s your chance to discover what it was like in the 70s. Being the new heart of Europe is more than a motto. Politically, this was Eastern Europe, but with the massive Ukraine to the east now also being recognized as Eurozone, its true geographic center has shifted into the midst of Slovakia’s mountains. The people here are rapidly waking up from the Communist hangover. Their creative juices are once again flowing, and they relate to the Western approach to enjoying life. Slovakia blends the best of romantic Europe—picturesque countryside, a charming capital city, ghostly castles, Renaissance churches, divine food and period-perfect museums—with the eastward-expanding European Union. Bratislava Slovakia, often confused with the former Yugoslavian country Slovenia, is a little nation with a big spirit. My journey started in the often overlooked capital city, Bratislava, a Danube River-hugging spectacle with all the modern creature comforts—without a fat price tag or annoying crowds. The Danube touches four capitals: Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest, and Belgrade. I found Bratislava to be the most chilled out, as I didn’t hear one car horn or a person sounding like one. Conveniently located downriver from Budapest and upriver from Vienna, Bratislava is where a woman’s Slovak-to-English musings urged me to exercise my feet and my imagination, “You have to use your fantasia.” Her Slavic accent recalls Russia, however the evolving Europe salutes her free will. Unfortunately, many Danube River boat tourists often fail to appreciate the magic to be found along these cobble-stoned streets. Eurovea’s restaurant row An hour train ride from Vienna, Bratislava looks at the foot of the fabled Carpathian Mountains, which range all the way down into Romania. In the sprawling Old Town, winding pedestrian walkways pass through city gates and ancient city-wall ruins. Looming regally above on a hilltop, the fifteenth century Bratislava Castle was once the capital of the Hungarian Kingdom. While many Americans deem a 1950’s Los Angeles diner a landmark, the residents of this colorful metropolis won’t soon forget the 1500s. It’s not difficult to see every corner of this fertile land. Seventy percent of Slovakia is mountains, and I explored its high peaks region called the High Tatras. En route, it seems as if every tenth pinnacle has a fourteenth century medieval castle upon it, or at least the crumbling ruins of one. The eerie ruins kept me on the lookout for a reincarnated knight passing on horseback (while making a beer commercial). The big daddy of them all, Spis (spish) Castle is Central Europe’s largest medieval fortress compound. Spis Castle First built in 1209, it was wrecked by 13th century Tatars, and rebuilt in the 15th century. Partially in ruins, it dominates the landscape from miles away and made me ponder phantoms, and life before remote controls. The sprawling Spis region, including the old-world village of Levoca, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site playground. St. Jacob’s Church showcases the world’s tallest Gothic alter and private museum-caliber paintings and sculptures. Gothic churches abound making memorable photography a cinch. View from Spis Castle For people more enchanted with the now, the nearby Slovakian Paradise National Park is a wilderness area that’s home to the Hornad Canyon-side hike, which involves a tricky traverse along horizontal ladders, bridges, snaking steps, chain handholds, and footbridges—mostly over a river. Along the numerous trail options, a few restaurants wait ready with sausage and a brew. The more you see, the more that newly encountered people and places remind you of others met on your life’s journey. The tallest Tatras weave a North Carolina Smoky Mountain feel, as they often attract a cloudy halo. High Tatras In winter, this range takes on another vibe more reminiscent of the Alps. Strbske Pleso—pleso means mountain lake—is the highest mountain topping out at 8,710 feet. It’s accessible via train from Bratislava, and you can literally walk from the station to the Grand Hotel Kempinski, Slovakia’s version of Yellowstone Lodge. Not a shabby commute. Grand Hotel Kempinski Nearby, Lomnicky Peak (8,635 feet), the country’s second highest, can be summited by foot or cable car. On the summit I was rewarded with views of southern Poland and this factoid: Poland is the only country to elect a professional musician President. The stone building atop Lomnicky offers drinks at the country’s highest café, and for gutsy romantics, a cozy apartment where the overnight rate includes a private dinner service—a way better proposal spot than on a horse-drawn carriage ride. Your chance of meeting an American here is similar to an Americans’ chance of meeting a Slovakian today—a lucky strike either way. (Speaking of luck, the last man to visit the Moon had Slovak heritage.) Because what goes up must also come down, I made my way to the flat lands, which are salted with 500-year-old manor houses now doubling as swank hotels. Hotel Amade Chateau During the 50-year Soviet Regime, most of the historic manor houses or chateaus were converted into orphanages, schools, hospitals, and retirement homes, or left to fall into ruin. The transition from noble family mansions to Communist facilities took its toll. Because it was a Soviet satellite, many otherwise quaint, rural, medieval-flavored valley towns were overshadowed by huge hastily constructed factories adjoined to ugly communist block-style apartment buildings that don’t exactly blend in. An old Slovakian saying states, “When soldiers come, grass never grows again,” but this patriotic land is proud anew, and a bargain unheard of in the rest of the European Union. It enjoys some of Europe’s best tap water, which also infuses the country’s delightful hand-crafted beers and wines. Slovakia does have a few sharp differences with its neighbors. Czechs are primarily atheists, while Slovaks remain deeply Roman Catholic. And, they’re in an ongoing dispute with Hungary about Danube River hydro dam diversions. But that’s nothing a traveler has to worry about. For visitors, it’s all dobre (doe-bray), a frequently spoken Slovakian term meaning good or ok. In truth, now that Prague is a busy crossroads of colliding tourists, Slovakia is where you can still feel the splendor of once-reigning Austria and Hungary—but more vitally, the atmosphere of reinvention. With the Iron Curtain fallen and Moscow deemed irrelevant, the resurrected geographic center of Europe shares a time-tested Slovak maxim: “He who digs a hole for someone else will fall into it themselves.” Something else fell into that hole, and it surely wasn’t the unbroken Slovakian spirit. Cheers. The old chapel bells toll yet again. * * * * * Bruce Northam’s THE DIRECTIONS TO HAPPINESS is a 125-country quest for unlikely sages. www.AmericanDetour.com. * Visit www.slovakia.travel. * Old Town Bratislava’s thirteenth century Hotel Arcadia, near equally-seasoned St. Martin’s Cathedral and arguably the country’s best hotel, is everything a five-star hotel should be, without gratuitous effort. www.arcadia-hotel.sk. Hotel Arcadia * I’m not typically a fan of glitzy malls, but Bratislava’s Eurovea mega mall’s outdoor riverside area is a pedestrian paradise with overgrown beanbag couches scattered upon manicured lawns lining 15 welcoming high-value restaurant bargains. www.eurovea.com. * Bratislava’s Flowers Restaurant is home to Slovakia’s top chef. The dazzling five-star open kitchen space has a towering glass ceiling and walls bejeweled with classic Andy Warhol paintings—his parents, Byzantine Catholics, emigrated to the U.S. from Slovakia. www.flowersrestaurant.sk. * The Danubiana Art Museum is Slovakia’s MOMA on an island in the Danube River near Slovakia’s visible intersections with Austria and Hungary. Light plays with masterpieces inside and on the outdoor art sculpture park promenade. www.danubiana.sk. Nearby is a human-made whitewater kayakers’ paradise/theme park, Cunovo, fed by diverted river water. Danubiana Art Museum * Hotel Amade Chateau, only 30 minutes outside Bratislava, is a romantic castle-hotel/spa and gourmet restaurant evoking the Versailles era of Louis XVI. The adjoined plush spa complex features a Turkish hammam sharing that ancient style of wellness. This classic, manicured manor house has 20 double bed rooms and 10 apartments. It’s one of the rare places in Slovakia serving afternoon tea—inside one its many noble rooms or beside one of their deluxe pools. www.hotelamade.sk. * Kremnica is home to a castle (yup, another dazzler) and a famous mint (Mincovna) that’s been pounding out coins and medals since 1329 when it struck the first Old Hungarian groschen coins. www.mint.sk. * Alpine-lakeside Grand Hotel Kempinski luxuriates in the High Tatras, with grand being the key declaration. It reminded me of a down-to-earth Swiss resort movie set. www.kempinski.com. Not far from the epic Spis Castle, www.spisskyhrad.sk. * Red Stone Castle, one hour from Bratislava, is a mountain-top, moated fort built in the sixteenth century. The four canon-loaded bastions, some with bat soundtracks, were later used as wine presses and wine cellars. Today, the slate and red limestone masterpiece’s great halls host special events. The original structure at this location built in the 1230s, was demolished for new construction. www.hradcervenykamen.sk. * Private guide-extraordinaire, Eva Cubrikova, knows and loves every inch of this country. Email her at . * * * * In 1925 a Slovakian invented the resonating Dobro guitar, which now sounds good in every language. * The gypsy (who prefer to be called Roma) presence in Slovakia polarizes opinions like any racially tense situation in America. The Roma landed in Europe after leaving India in the tenth century. They’re a small fraction of Slovakia’s 5.5 million people, but the fastest growing population sector. The Roma contribute liberally to the arts, with a knack for music and poetry. Slovakia inherited some of the best aspects of its five neighbors, enjoying Czech-style brewing, Polish diligence, Austrian architecture, Ukrainian good looks, and Hungarian stews. The one thing Slovakia can claim outright is the fact that it’s an undiscovered travel jewel. Culturally and geographical diverse, it’s simply a beautiful bargain. Spis Castle’s security guard Want to experience classic Europe for a third of the price? Here’s your chance to discover what it was like in the 70s. Being the new heart of Europe is more than a motto. Politically, this was Eastern Europe, but with the massive Ukraine to the east now also being recognized as Eurozone, its true geographic center has shifted into the midst of Slovakia’s mountains. The people here are rapidly waking up from the Communist hangover. Their creative juices are once again flowing, and they relate to the Western approach to enjoying life. Slovakia blends the best of romantic Europe—picturesque countryside, a charming capital city, ghostly castles, Renaissance churches, divine food and period-perfect museums—with the eastward-expanding European Union. Bratislava Slovakia, often confused with the former Yugoslavian country Slovenia, is a little nation with a big spirit. My journey started in the often overlooked capital city, Bratislava, a Danube River-hugging spectacle with all the modern creature comforts—without a fat price tag or annoying crowds. The Danube touches four capitals: Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest, and Belgrade. I found Bratislava to be the most chilled out, as I didn’t hear one car horn or a person sounding like one. Conveniently located downriver from Budapest and upriver from Vienna, Bratislava is where a woman’s Slovak-to-English musings urged me to exercise my feet and my imagination, “You have to use your fantasia.” Her Slavic accent recalls Russia, however the evolving Europe salutes her free will. Unfortunately, many Danube River boat tourists often fail to appreciate the magic to be found along these cobble-stoned streets. Eurovea’s restaurant row An hour train ride from Vienna, Bratislava looks at the foot of the fabled Carpathian Mountains, which range all the way down into Romania. In the sprawling Old Town, winding pedestrian walkways pass through city gates and ancient city-wall ruins. Looming regally above on a hilltop, the fifteenth century Bratislava Castle was once the capital of the Hungarian Kingdom. While many Americans deem a 1950’s Los Angeles diner a landmark, the residents of this colorful metropolis won’t soon forget the 1500s. It’s not difficult to see every corner of this fertile land. Seventy percent of Slovakia is mountains, and I explored its high peaks region called the High Tatras. En route, it seems as if every tenth pinnacle has a fourteenth century medieval castle upon it, or at least the crumbling ruins of one. The eerie ruins kept me on the lookout for a reincarnated knight passing on horseback (while making a beer commercial). The big daddy of them all, Spis (spish) Castle is Central Europe’s largest medieval fortress compound. Spis Castle First built in 1209, it was wrecked by 13th century Tatars, and rebuilt in the 15th century. Partially in ruins, it dominates the landscape from miles away and made me ponder phantoms, and life before remote controls. The sprawling Spis region, including the old-world village of Levoca, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site playground. St. Jacob’s Church showcases the world’s tallest Gothic alter and private museum-caliber paintings and sculptures. Gothic churches abound making memorable photography a cinch. View from Spis Castle For people more enchanted with the now, the nearby Slovakian Paradise National Park is a wilderness area that’s home to the Hornad Canyon-side hike, which involves a tricky traverse along horizontal ladders, bridges, snaking steps, chain handholds, and footbridges—mostly over a river. Along the numerous trail options, a few restaurants wait ready with sausage and a brew. The more you see, the more that newly encountered people and places remind you of others met on your life’s journey. The tallest Tatras weave a North Carolina Smoky Mountain feel, as they often attract a cloudy halo. High Tatras In winter, this range takes on another vibe more reminiscent of the Alps. Strbske Pleso—pleso means mountain lake—is the highest mountain topping out at 8,710 feet. It’s accessible via train from Bratislava, and you can literally walk from the station to the Grand Hotel Kempinski, Slovakia’s version of Yellowstone Lodge. Not a shabby commute. Grand Hotel Kempinski Nearby, Lomnicky Peak (8,635 feet), the country’s second highest, can be summited by foot or cable car. On the summit I was rewarded with views of southern Poland and this factoid: Poland is the only country to elect a professional musician President. The stone building atop Lomnicky offers drinks at the country’s highest café, and for gutsy romantics, a cozy apartment where the overnight rate includes a private dinner service—a way better proposal spot than on a horse-drawn carriage ride. Your chance of meeting an American here is similar to an Americans’ chance of meeting a Slovakian today—a lucky strike either way. (Speaking of luck, the last man to visit the Moon had Slovak heritage.) Because what goes up must also come down, I made my way to the flat lands, which are salted with 500-year-old manor houses now doubling as swank hotels. Hotel Amade Chateau During the 50-year Soviet Regime, most of the historic manor houses or chateaus were converted into orphanages, schools, hospitals, and retirement homes, or left to fall into ruin. The transition from noble family mansions to Communist facilities took its toll. Because it was a Soviet satellite, many otherwise quaint, rural, medieval-flavored valley towns were overshadowed by huge hastily constructed factories adjoined to ugly communist block-style apartment buildings that don’t exactly blend in. An old Slovakian saying states, “When soldiers come, grass never grows again,” but this patriotic land is proud anew, and a bargain unheard of in the rest of the European Union. It enjoys some of Europe’s best tap water, which also infuses the country’s delightful hand-crafted beers and wines. Slovakia does have a few sharp differences with its neighbors. Czechs are primarily atheists, while Slovaks remain deeply Roman Catholic. And, they’re in an ongoing dispute with Hungary about Danube River hydro dam diversions. But that’s nothing a traveler has to worry about. For visitors, it’s all dobre (doe-bray), a frequently spoken Slovakian term meaning good or ok. In truth, now that Prague is a busy crossroads of colliding tourists, Slovakia is where you can still feel the splendor of once-reigning Austria and Hungary—but more vitally, the atmosphere of reinvention. With the Iron Curtain fallen and Moscow deemed irrelevant, the resurrected geographic center of Europe shares a time-tested Slovak maxim: “He who digs a hole for someone else will fall into it themselves.” Something else fell into that hole, and it surely wasn’t the unbroken Slovakian spirit. Cheers. The old chapel bells toll yet again. * * * * * Bruce Northam’s THE DIRECTIONS TO HAPPINESS is a 125-country quest for unlikely sages. www.AmericanDetour.com. * Visit www.slovakia.travel. * Old Town Bratislava’s thirteenth century Hotel Arcadia, near equally-seasoned St. Martin’s Cathedral and arguably the country’s best hotel, is everything a five-star hotel should be, without gratuitous effort. www.arcadia-hotel.sk. Hotel Arcadia * I’m not typically a fan of glitzy malls, but Bratislava’s Eurovea mega mall’s outdoor riverside area is a pedestrian paradise with overgrown beanbag couches scattered upon manicured lawns lining 15 welcoming high-value restaurant bargains. www.eurovea.com. * Bratislava’s Flowers Restaurant is home to Slovakia’s top chef. The dazzling five-star open kitchen space has a towering glass ceiling and walls bejeweled with classic Andy Warhol paintings—his parents, Byzantine Catholics, emigrated to the U.S. from Slovakia. www.flowersrestaurant.sk. * The Danubiana Art Museum is Slovakia’s MOMA on an island in the Danube River near Slovakia’s visible intersections with Austria and Hungary. Light plays with masterpieces inside and on the outdoor art sculpture park promenade. www.danubiana.sk. Nearby is a human-made whitewater kayakers’ paradise/theme park, Cunovo, fed by diverted river water. Danubiana Art Museum * Hotel Amade Chateau, only 30 minutes outside Bratislava, is a romantic castle-hotel/spa and gourmet restaurant evoking the Versailles era of Louis XVI. The adjoined plush spa complex features a Turkish hammam sharing that ancient style of wellness. This classic, manicured manor house has 20 double bed rooms and 10 apartments. It’s one of the rare places in Slovakia serving afternoon tea—inside one its many noble rooms or beside one of their deluxe pools. www.hotelamade.sk. * Kremnica is home to a castle (yup, another dazzler) and a famous mint (Mincovna) that’s been pounding out coins and medals since 1329 when it struck the first Old Hungarian groschen coins. www.mint.sk. * Alpine-lakeside Grand Hotel Kempinski luxuriates in the High Tatras, with grand being the key declaration. It reminded me of a down-to-earth Swiss resort movie set. www.kempinski.com. Not far from the epic Spis Castle, www.spisskyhrad.sk. * Red Stone Castle, one hour from Bratislava, is a mountain-top, moated fort built in the sixteenth century. The four canon-loaded bastions, some with bat soundtracks, were later used as wine presses and wine cellars. Today, the slate and red limestone masterpiece’s great halls host special events. The original structure at this location built in the 1230s, was demolished for new construction. www.hradcervenykamen.sk. * Private guide-extraordinaire, Eva Cubrikova, knows and loves every inch of this country. Email her at . * * * * In 1925 a Slovakian invented the resonating Dobro guitar, which now sounds good in every language. * The gypsy (who prefer to be called Roma) presence in Slovakia polarizes opinions like any racially tense situation in America. The Roma landed in Europe after leaving India in the tenth century. They’re a small fraction of Slovakia’s 5.5 million people, but the fastest growing population sector. The Roma contribute liberally to the arts, with a knack for music and poetry. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-04-13T16:25:04+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/shreveportlouisianas-other-corner http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/shreveportlouisianas-other-corner#When:01:20:51Z New Orleans steals all of Louisiana’s glory, but up in the state’s northwest otherworld, Shreveport’s down-home charm is a true find—especially while celebrating its personalized incarnation of Mardi Gras. Texas Street, the city’s reinvented cultural spine, is bookended by a Greek-inspired church and a river-crossing bridge that leads to twin-city gaming-town Bossier. The Red River is lined by boardwalks, floating casinos, and legend. “Fast food” here has claws and legs. Nine highlights… The Municipal Auditorium, which still hosts performers, is a museum for American music. In 1954, this “poor man’s Grand Ol’ Opry” launched a nineteen year-old Elvis Presley into stardom when he appeared on the Louisiana Hayride radio show as an amateur hour contestant. That appearance made this the third corner of the Elvis worshippers’ pilgrimmage trifecta along with Graceland and his birthplace, Tupelo, MS. Aptly located on Elvis Presley Avenue, this hand-etched Art Deco National Historic Landmark also hosted the early Rolling Stones, and a venue-shattering Jimi Hendrix show, which blew the doors off, scaring away the hillbillies and inspiring at least one young resident to pick up a guitar. www.shreveportmunicipalauditorium.com One enthused Shreveport local who witnessed that Jimi Hendrix performance at the Municipal Auditorium was Grammy-nominated blues master Buddy Flett. Buddy, also inspired by local blues legend Lead Belly, was later a major influence on renowned guitarist Kenny Wayne Shepherd. That’s how blues music evolves while at the same time preserving its roots. Four years ago, a bug bite in Puerto Rico gave Buddy viral encephalitis, which nearly killed him. His brain swelled and baked, sending him into a coma for months. He had to relearn how to walk, speak, and play the guitar. Meeting this musician was humbling, to say the least. Check out this video, he’s back and once again the real deal: www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfhJWsYn6Hk The living room-casual Columbia Café serves epic grits and grillades (www.columbiacafe.com). Also impressive, the Columbia Café’s owner, Matt Linn, started the spin-off Krewe of Highland Parade seventeen years ago with a shopping cart and a buzz. This independently minded daylight procession now has dozens of nifty floats and is savored by half the city. It’s a true neighborhood affair, with less pomp and more dancing than the other parades… …Riding upon on a float and winging beads to miles of fanatical crowds was my chance to experience what it’s like to be honored in a Super Bowl parade. www.thekreweofhighland.org Artspace, a gallery on a mission to inspire, has three floors that connect artisans with the community. Featured multi-medium artist (and veteran psychiatrist) Dr. Pat Sewell cleverly demonstrates through his sculptures and paintings how we often wear our emotions on our faces, no matter how hard we try to hide what we’re feeling. www.artspaceshreveport.com Fertitta’s Deli, located in Lead Belly’s “Blue Goose” neighborhood stomping grounds, is Shreveport’s Carnegie Delicatessen. The former archetypal Sicilian corner grocery store evolved into a casual dining attraction that trademarked the “Muffy,” a flat, circular sandwich garnished with olive relish. Since opening in 1927, they’ve sold more than a million Muffy’s—and satisfied as many people. www.papafertitta.com The Robinson Film Center’s intimate two-screen state-of-the-art theaters with Lazy-Boy seats, also have an inviting bar and restaurant. The non-profit two-story art house hosts filmmaker forums, plays, and courses on film and media education for all ages. Shreveport is a popular film location setting, making this a magnet for the many actors and artists working here. Mobile cocktails permitted. www.robinsonfilmcenter.org Established in 1856, the dazzling Holy Trinity Catholic Church was relocated two years later. Five of its priests lost their lives treating the victims of the Yellow Fever epidemic of 1873. The present church, in Romanesque Revival style, was built in 1896. Monsignor Earl Provenza welcomes all as friends. www.holytrinity-shreveport.com Tubbs Hardware & Cajun Gifts, where hardware meets hot sauce, is the Barnum & Bailey of the hardware world. It provides Shreveport’s seasonal essentials, peddling more Mardi Gras beads and King Cakes than screwdrivers. Here you’re treated like a guest, as opposed to being just another number. www.tubbshardware.com * * * * * * More information on all things Shreveport-Bossier is on www.shreveport-bossier.org or (888) 45-VISIT. For Mardi Gras details, visit www.kreweofgemini.com * I nicknamed Shreveport “Louisiana’s Buffalo,” and plan on returning. New Orleans steals all of Louisiana’s glory, but up in the state’s northwest otherworld, Shreveport’s down-home charm is a true find—especially while celebrating its personalized incarnation of Mardi Gras. Texas Street, the city’s reinvented cultural spine, is bookended by a Greek-inspired church and a river-crossing bridge that leads to twin-city gaming-town Bossier. The Red River is lined by boardwalks, floating casinos, and legend. “Fast food” here has claws and legs. Nine highlights… The Municipal Auditorium, which still hosts performers, is a museum for American music. In 1954, this “poor man’s Grand Ol’ Opry” launched a nineteen year-old Elvis Presley into stardom when he appeared on the Louisiana Hayride radio show as an amateur hour contestant. That appearance made this the third corner of the Elvis worshippers’ pilgrimmage trifecta along with Graceland and his birthplace, Tupelo, MS. Aptly located on Elvis Presley Avenue, this hand-etched Art Deco National Historic Landmark also hosted the early Rolling Stones, and a venue-shattering Jimi Hendrix show, which blew the doors off, scaring away the hillbillies and inspiring at least one young resident to pick up a guitar. www.shreveportmunicipalauditorium.com One enthused Shreveport local who witnessed that Jimi Hendrix performance at the Municipal Auditorium was Grammy-nominated blues master Buddy Flett. Buddy, also inspired by local blues legend Lead Belly, was later a major influence on renowned guitarist Kenny Wayne Shepherd. That’s how blues music evolves while at the same time preserving its roots. Four years ago, a bug bite in Puerto Rico gave Buddy viral encephalitis, which nearly killed him. His brain swelled and baked, sending him into a coma for months. He had to relearn how to walk, speak, and play the guitar. Meeting this musician was humbling, to say the least. Check out this video, he’s back and once again the real deal: www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfhJWsYn6Hk The living room-casual Columbia Café serves epic grits and grillades (www.columbiacafe.com). Also impressive, the Columbia Café’s owner, Matt Linn, started the spin-off Krewe of Highland Parade seventeen years ago with a shopping cart and a buzz. This independently minded daylight procession now has dozens of nifty floats and is savored by half the city. It’s a true neighborhood affair, with less pomp and more dancing than the other parades… …Riding upon on a float and winging beads to miles of fanatical crowds was my chance to experience what it’s like to be honored in a Super Bowl parade. www.thekreweofhighland.org Artspace, a gallery on a mission to inspire, has three floors that connect artisans with the community. Featured multi-medium artist (and veteran psychiatrist) Dr. Pat Sewell cleverly demonstrates through his sculptures and paintings how we often wear our emotions on our faces, no matter how hard we try to hide what we’re feeling. www.artspaceshreveport.com Fertitta’s Deli, located in Lead Belly’s “Blue Goose” neighborhood stomping grounds, is Shreveport’s Carnegie Delicatessen. The former archetypal Sicilian corner grocery store evolved into a casual dining attraction that trademarked the “Muffy,” a flat, circular sandwich garnished with olive relish. Since opening in 1927, they’ve sold more than a million Muffy’s—and satisfied as many people. www.papafertitta.com The Robinson Film Center’s intimate two-screen state-of-the-art theaters with Lazy-Boy seats, also have an inviting bar and restaurant. The non-profit two-story art house hosts filmmaker forums, plays, and courses on film and media education for all ages. Shreveport is a popular film location setting, making this a magnet for the many actors and artists working here. Mobile cocktails permitted. www.robinsonfilmcenter.org Established in 1856, the dazzling Holy Trinity Catholic Church was relocated two years later. Five of its priests lost their lives treating the victims of the Yellow Fever epidemic of 1873. The present church, in Romanesque Revival style, was built in 1896. Monsignor Earl Provenza welcomes all as friends. www.holytrinity-shreveport.com Tubbs Hardware & Cajun Gifts, where hardware meets hot sauce, is the Barnum & Bailey of the hardware world. It provides Shreveport’s seasonal essentials, peddling more Mardi Gras beads and King Cakes than screwdrivers. Here you’re treated like a guest, as opposed to being just another number. www.tubbshardware.com * * * * * * More information on all things Shreveport-Bossier is on www.shreveport-bossier.org or (888) 45-VISIT. For Mardi Gras details, visit www.kreweofgemini.com * I nicknamed Shreveport “Louisiana’s Buffalo,” and plan on returning. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-03-22T01:20:51+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/sampling-scottsdale-arizona http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/sampling-scottsdale-arizona#When:18:38:03Z When reviewing restaurants—I’m not a traditional foodie—I focus on how dining destinations makes us feel…where they transport us. Here are two special atmospheres in Scottsdale. FnB Ample time for food foreplay Dining upon a bar often conjures up images of fried food meant to mate with beer. Here, the wide marble bar surrounds a master chef at work who bustles in a fishbowl kitchen. It’s an open window into a fast and furious chef zone, minus the chaos. Most similar set-ups in which the customers are just feet away from the chef serve Asian food. This menu, however, offers an inventive American fusion of healthy ingredients. A particular fave is the spiced eggplant, yoghurt, and pomegranate dish. Festive but intimate, FnB serves only Arizona’s premium homegrown wines and brews. Pavle Milic, the hands-on owner reigns from Queens. His extended culinary stopovers in Napa, New York City, and a trattoria in Scottsdale bring an unexpected cosmopolitan flair to chef Charleen Badman’s menu. Many of the chef’s specialties are imparted with “smoky love.” Try the French breakfast radish, the braised leeks, and whatever else Pavle recommends. Wide-open and fun with picture windows, the restaurant is hopping even on Sunday nights. There are 36 seats in all. Chef Badman, an Arizona native, previously owned Inside, a renowned Manhattan, NY restaurant for seven years. 7133 East Stetson Drive, Scottsdale. 480 425 9463. www.fnbrestaurant.com. * * * * * 5th & Wine In your face, then in your stomach What do you get when you mix a sprawling, upscale coffee hangout and one of Arizona’s best wine lists? Wait, add hearty Southwestern comfort food with new age presentations—and you’ve got an inviting and dandy place to dine and drink. Its 150 bottle wine list has a $100 ceiling, and a daily 11am-6pm happy hour features all wines for $5 per glass (including $10 pours). Executive chef Mike Bouwne’s bold menu of divine homemade American food, served inside or out, includes swordfish, meatloaf, and the 5th & Wine Burger topped with cambozola or white cheddar, carmelized onions, and arugula on a toasted brioche bun. Ask about the annual Mac-N-Cheese throwdown. Mild-mannered Bouwne claims that his food is blissfully “in your face.” He, however, is anything but overbearing. Other highlights include live music three nights a week and nice touches like milk bottles on each table full of room-temperature drinking water. According to the bartender, “cold water shocks the palate.” The walls are adorned with colorful dog artwork by www.ronburns.com, allowing this likable establishment to double as an art gallery. 7051 E. 5th Ave., Scottsdale, 480 699 8001, www.5thandwine.com. When reviewing restaurants—I’m not a traditional foodie—I focus on how dining destinations makes us feel…where they transport us. Here are two special atmospheres in Scottsdale. FnB Ample time for food foreplay Dining upon a bar often conjures up images of fried food meant to mate with beer. Here, the wide marble bar surrounds a master chef at work who bustles in a fishbowl kitchen. It’s an open window into a fast and furious chef zone, minus the chaos. Most similar set-ups in which the customers are just feet away from the chef serve Asian food. This menu, however, offers an inventive American fusion of healthy ingredients. A particular fave is the spiced eggplant, yoghurt, and pomegranate dish. Festive but intimate, FnB serves only Arizona’s premium homegrown wines and brews. Pavle Milic, the hands-on owner reigns from Queens. His extended culinary stopovers in Napa, New York City, and a trattoria in Scottsdale bring an unexpected cosmopolitan flair to chef Charleen Badman’s menu. Many of the chef’s specialties are imparted with “smoky love.” Try the French breakfast radish, the braised leeks, and whatever else Pavle recommends. Wide-open and fun with picture windows, the restaurant is hopping even on Sunday nights. There are 36 seats in all. Chef Badman, an Arizona native, previously owned Inside, a renowned Manhattan, NY restaurant for seven years. 7133 East Stetson Drive, Scottsdale. 480 425 9463. www.fnbrestaurant.com. * * * * * 5th & Wine In your face, then in your stomach What do you get when you mix a sprawling, upscale coffee hangout and one of Arizona’s best wine lists? Wait, add hearty Southwestern comfort food with new age presentations—and you’ve got an inviting and dandy place to dine and drink. Its 150 bottle wine list has a $100 ceiling, and a daily 11am-6pm happy hour features all wines for $5 per glass (including $10 pours). Executive chef Mike Bouwne’s bold menu of divine homemade American food, served inside or out, includes swordfish, meatloaf, and the 5th & Wine Burger topped with cambozola or white cheddar, carmelized onions, and arugula on a toasted brioche bun. Ask about the annual Mac-N-Cheese throwdown. Mild-mannered Bouwne claims that his food is blissfully “in your face.” He, however, is anything but overbearing. Other highlights include live music three nights a week and nice touches like milk bottles on each table full of room-temperature drinking water. According to the bartender, “cold water shocks the palate.” The walls are adorned with colorful dog artwork by www.ronburns.com, allowing this likable establishment to double as an art gallery. 7051 E. 5th Ave., Scottsdale, 480 699 8001, www.5thandwine.com. Globetrotter Dogma, 2012-02-13T18:38:03+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/travel-attire-road-test http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/travel-attire-road-test#When:19:50:22Z I test-drive a lot of travel clothing and gear, which is often an aberration of apparel aimed at safari-goers, photographers, or other adventurers. With loops and pockets everywhere, it’s often fisherman fashion at best. Here are six manufacturers—who won’t take you fishing— that sell the travel attire and gear I swear by when on the road and in my NYC neighborhood after midnight. Although all of these companies sell broad lines, I’m only mentioning a few of my favorites from each collection. ScottEvest Travel Clothing: A functional t-shirt? I view Western women’s need to carry purses and handbags as what truly sets them apart from men, who cart vitals in pant pockets. Always carrying something on one shoulder creates on-the-go liability and maligns spines. I understand that women don’t want items bulging from their outfits. Alas, here’s an active solution: ScottEvest’s performance t-shirts include two discreet zipped pockets—one above your armpit, another above your hip—that put an end to losing keys, glasses, and phones. The other pocket is a handy stash for cash and credit cards, which makes losing an otherwise chock-full purse or wallet less disastrous. They come in a dozen colors in either cotton or quick-drying, wicking performance mode. Their amazing product line revolutionizes traveling, and I’ve permanently retired my man purse. The classic, waterproof ScottEvest jacket has 18 fully capable, technology-enabled (yet subtle) pockets, one perfect for an iPad and others connected to hidden conduits for headphone cords. Ladies, also consider their sexy, no-bulge 18-pocket women’s trench coat. www.scottevest.com. * * * PICK POCKET PROOF travel pants (P^cubed by Clothing Arts), inspired by a traveler who has obviously spent time in Phnom Penh (one of Asia’s pickpocket capitals), are durable multi-pocket cargo slacks featuring a rear pocket-within-a-pocket to hide passports and cash, four zipped and covered anti-theft pockets (two with separate left or right-handed smartphone pouches), expandable, cut-resistant cargo pockets, and an attachable bottle-holding pouch. But, they remain sleek—you don’t look like a safari movie extra. They double as smart and functional urban wear and would have been quite handy on the Williamsburg Bridge pedestrian walkway, where I was once mugged by two gunmen. Bachelor-friendly: wrinkle, rain, and stain resistant. Dieting bonus: two closable tabs that decrease your waist size by an inch (to odd sizes) without notching a belt. Business Traveler fabric blends also available. Ps, They give 20 percent of the proceeds from their line of internationalized shirts to a children’s charity in the region that inspired that collection. www.clothingarts.com. * * * ExOfficio (x-o-fish-e-o) has mastered making functional, wrinkle-free travel clothing right for the sharp dresser. One of my favorites is their lightweight slacks with additional zipped pockets inside the standard trouser pockets. The ‘Men’s Nomad Pant’ resemble traditional khakis, but they don’t crease and wash and dry easily in a sink, then dry quickly. Their ExO Dri shirt collection provides up to 7-degrees temperature reduction and their Give-N-Go underwear is incredibly quick-drying and treated with a microbe shield to control odor-causing bacteria. Pack less, do more. Their epic line of button-down and pullover long sleeve shirts are vented, have reliable zipped pockets, and look great. Styles range from incredibly lightweight to chunky thick. www.exofficio.com. * * * Icebreaker: If smart dressing for the active lifestyle is all about layering, this is a great place to start. Their stylish lightweight wool bodyfit base layer is a product with integrity—your garment is uniquely barcoded (baa-code) so you can check in with its source, a big-horned Merino sheep living in New Zealand’s Alps, and the different sheep farmers providing testimonials. Taking a break from oil-based synthetics for this naturally silky fleece truly lets your body breathe and doesn’t itch because the fibers flex when they come in contact with skin. When sustainably and ethically produced wool allows you to wick away moisture at the vapor stage, your’re cool in more than one way. Tracing back the origin of your garment allows you to learn how many sheep they have on how many acres, how long the farmers have been there, how much wool they produce, and what kind of life they lead. www.icebreaker.com. * * * Tilley Hats can spin/morph anyone Indiana Jonesy, but their real appeal is not having to squint in sun and their incredible dignified durability. Machine washable and bottom-of-your-pack crushable, they always spring back to life. Optional chin strap makes the wind your friend. www.tilley.com. * * * Vasque footwear’s JUXT is an understated hiking sneaker that does more than look low-key cool. The performance-minded leather and plastic design takes you from the court to the mountain, and then back to every day. www.vasque.com. I test-drive a lot of travel clothing and gear, which is often an aberration of apparel aimed at safari-goers, photographers, or other adventurers. With loops and pockets everywhere, it’s often fisherman fashion at best. Here are six manufacturers—who won’t take you fishing— that sell the travel attire and gear I swear by when on the road and in my NYC neighborhood after midnight. Although all of these companies sell broad lines, I’m only mentioning a few of my favorites from each collection. ScottEvest Travel Clothing: A functional t-shirt? I view Western women’s need to carry purses and handbags as what truly sets them apart from men, who cart vitals in pant pockets. Always carrying something on one shoulder creates on-the-go liability and maligns spines. I understand that women don’t want items bulging from their outfits. Alas, here’s an active solution: ScottEvest’s performance t-shirts include two discreet zipped pockets—one above your armpit, another above your hip—that put an end to losing keys, glasses, and phones. The other pocket is a handy stash for cash and credit cards, which makes losing an otherwise chock-full purse or wallet less disastrous. They come in a dozen colors in either cotton or quick-drying, wicking performance mode. Their amazing product line revolutionizes traveling, and I’ve permanently retired my man purse. The classic, waterproof ScottEvest jacket has 18 fully capable, technology-enabled (yet subtle) pockets, one perfect for an iPad and others connected to hidden conduits for headphone cords. Ladies, also consider their sexy, no-bulge 18-pocket women’s trench coat. www.scottevest.com. * * * PICK POCKET PROOF travel pants (P^cubed by Clothing Arts), inspired by a traveler who has obviously spent time in Phnom Penh (one of Asia’s pickpocket capitals), are durable multi-pocket cargo slacks featuring a rear pocket-within-a-pocket to hide passports and cash, four zipped and covered anti-theft pockets (two with separate left or right-handed smartphone pouches), expandable, cut-resistant cargo pockets, and an attachable bottle-holding pouch. But, they remain sleek—you don’t look like a safari movie extra. They double as smart and functional urban wear and would have been quite handy on the Williamsburg Bridge pedestrian walkway, where I was once mugged by two gunmen. Bachelor-friendly: wrinkle, rain, and stain resistant. Dieting bonus: two closable tabs that decrease your waist size by an inch (to odd sizes) without notching a belt. Business Traveler fabric blends also available. Ps, They give 20 percent of the proceeds from their line of internationalized shirts to a children’s charity in the region that inspired that collection. www.clothingarts.com. * * * ExOfficio (x-o-fish-e-o) has mastered making functional, wrinkle-free travel clothing right for the sharp dresser. One of my favorites is their lightweight slacks with additional zipped pockets inside the standard trouser pockets. The ‘Men’s Nomad Pant’ resemble traditional khakis, but they don’t crease and wash and dry easily in a sink, then dry quickly. Their ExO Dri shirt collection provides up to 7-degrees temperature reduction and their Give-N-Go underwear is incredibly quick-drying and treated with a microbe shield to control odor-causing bacteria. Pack less, do more. Their epic line of button-down and pullover long sleeve shirts are vented, have reliable zipped pockets, and look great. Styles range from incredibly lightweight to chunky thick. www.exofficio.com. * * * Icebreaker: If smart dressing for the active lifestyle is all about layering, this is a great place to start. Their stylish lightweight wool bodyfit base layer is a product with integrity—your garment is uniquely barcoded (baa-code) so you can check in with its source, a big-horned Merino sheep living in New Zealand’s Alps, and the different sheep farmers providing testimonials. Taking a break from oil-based synthetics for this naturally silky fleece truly lets your body breathe and doesn’t itch because the fibers flex when they come in contact with skin. When sustainably and ethically produced wool allows you to wick away moisture at the vapor stage, your’re cool in more than one way. Tracing back the origin of your garment allows you to learn how many sheep they have on how many acres, how long the farmers have been there, how much wool they produce, and what kind of life they lead. www.icebreaker.com. * * * Tilley Hats can spin/morph anyone Indiana Jonesy, but their real appeal is not having to squint in sun and their incredible dignified durability. Machine washable and bottom-of-your-pack crushable, they always spring back to life. Optional chin strap makes the wind your friend. www.tilley.com. * * * Vasque footwear’s JUXT is an understated hiking sneaker that does more than look low-key cool. The performance-minded leather and plastic design takes you from the court to the mountain, and then back to every day. www.vasque.com. Globetrotter Dogma, 2011-12-13T19:50:22+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/dominican-state-of-bliss http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/dominican-state-of-bliss#When:21:00:22Z Anyone who initiated their travel careers in backpacker mode routinely loathe resorts—or continue sneaking into them. I was never a cruise ship guy either, until I tried one witnessing Alaska’s coastline. Barceló Bávaro Palace Deluxe, a mega-resort on the shores of the Dominican Republic’s Punta Cana region, won me over, firstly with its incredibly delightful beach setting. Going there off-season when it was only half full—when all-inclusive packages are a true bargain—made me a fan. 2000 guests in an empire that can sleep more than 4000 means no pedestrian stop signs. The gigantic scale of the place initially did not seem intimate. It reminded me of grandiose Soviet Bloc behemoth architecture, with palm trees. It didn’t take long to realize that the LaGuardia Airport-sized designer acreage is all about relaxation or fun—as long as you don’t mind long cross-campus strolls from your room to some of the action. And action options they have. You’re not limited to good old fun on the beach (though it is a great place to teach a kid to swim). There’s everything from Euro-style topless freedom to solo sailing on a catamaran. You’re always steps away from a perfect white-sand palm-lined beach—a mile and a half of it—where coal reefs create a natural swimming pool. Beachside offers everything cruise shippers love (including weight gain): an empire of hedonism with no chance of being mugged. There are two mammoth pools, an adult pool surrounded by mini futon-cabanas for couples, and a kid’s area with water park and pee-pee pool. If you want to pretend you’re on a health kick try a fresh fruit cocktail at one of the pools’ swim-up bars. This Barceló property—they have 160 properties in 16 countries—was just completely overhauled, costing more than a Space Shuttle. Their new state-of-the-art open-air amphitheatre, the Caribbean’s Carnegie Hall, can seat more than 1,300 guests. Nightly entertainment includes modern dance, local music, vaudeville type shows…something different every night. I liked the upper-level bar overlooking this spectacle while enjoying the ever-present cross breezes. Their brand new Club House, an epicenter serving the main lobby for all-three resort sections, connects a superb, sprawling wellness spa, nightclub (they’re still discos to me), 24-hour casino, amphitheatre, and a shopping district. Duty-free premium local rum makes gift buying easy. The gigantic, sparkling, multi-level disco is linked to a casino by way of a casual piano bar. After a singing along to a few piano-man tunes, I took a 2am dip in the ocean with six friends I’d met the night before. You really can do it all here…on 1,800 acres. One of my early exposures to Latin American grace was watching Hall of Fame baseball player Roberto Clemente play when I was a kid. The first Puerto Rican to play Major League Baseball, he overcame American racism by example. He pioneered humanitarian work throughout Latin America, often delivering baseball equipment and food. He died in 1972 plane crash while en route to deliver aid to Nicaraguan earthquake victims. His gracious manner was born in this region, and the hotel’s affable all-Dominican staff share his kindly way—and they’re everywhere (4,000 employees); seems as if there’s one employee to befriend each guest. If you haven’t been whisked into care-freedom yet, the amazing variety of linked restaurants must be unmatched in the Caribbean. Premiere food environments include restaurants inspired by Mexico, France, Italy, Spain, Japan, America, and gourmet Dominican. Most of the food is sourced locally. Plus, international buffets that can topple any diet and a 24-hour sports bar. They call the 1,366 rooms here sanctuaries. Every luxuriously-appointed room had a designer “Barceló Bed” (400-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets, little chocolates suddenly appearing), rain dance-style showers (arouse your inner singer), and views of lush gardens or spectacular aquamarine seas. Every room category is decked out with audio and video technology that would even make a hurricane enjoyable. A private Jacuzzi waits on your balcony. Their upfront, all-encompassing price policy means no mysteries are attached to your bill. I appreciated the abundance of non-motorized water activities, such as snorkeling, kayaking, pedaling water bikes or sailing. Jet Skis (none here) are only fun for the person mounting them. And it was nice to play ping pong outside instead of in somebody’s dank basement. Of course there’s first-rate golf and tennis on demand. The Dominican Republic’s Barceló is kid-friendly, but big enough to keep kids and people who prefer not dealing with them far apart—very far. The toughest question you have to ask yourself at night here is whether or not your shirt is resort casual attire. One key to a successful vacation is forgetting about your life back at home: check. I use to call all-inclusive resorts all-exclusive resorts because they exclude a country’s reality. Many Caribbean resorts are on tiny, exclusively-priced islands with few or no options to experience a genuine in-country experience. The magically tropical and topographically gnarly Dominican Republic, slightly larger than Maryland, offers numerous affordable off-resort excursions: snorkeling, a coffee plantation tour, a dolphin tour, and a nearby town visit (Higuey), to name a few. You can also create your own independent roaming possibilities. The Dominican Republic boasts the three highest mountains in the Caribbean, two exceeding 10,000 feet, which is significant since they rise from sea level. These elevations kick the eastern United States’ ass. Comparatively, the highest mountain in New York State is a bit over 5000 feet, situated in the midst of an already ‘high peaks’ region. But you don’t have to scale peaks to feel this country. Higuey, buzzing with motorbikes, open-air meat markets and colorful fruit stands, is 30 minutes from the resort, and a reminder of the country you’re visiting … and how lucky you are to be in Barceló indulge mode. Visit www.barcelo.com. * * * Bruce Northam’s roam continues on www.americandetour.com. Anyone who initiated their travel careers in backpacker mode routinely loathe resorts—or continue sneaking into them. I was never a cruise ship guy either, until I tried one witnessing Alaska’s coastline. Barceló Bávaro Palace Deluxe, a mega-resort on the shores of the Dominican Republic’s Punta Cana region, won me over, firstly with its incredibly delightful beach setting. Going there off-season when it was only half full—when all-inclusive packages are a true bargain—made me a fan. 2000 guests in an empire that can sleep more than 4000 means no pedestrian stop signs. The gigantic scale of the place initially did not seem intimate. It reminded me of grandiose Soviet Bloc behemoth architecture, with palm trees. It didn’t take long to realize that the LaGuardia Airport-sized designer acreage is all about relaxation or fun—as long as you don’t mind long cross-campus strolls from your room to some of the action. And action options they have. You’re not limited to good old fun on the beach (though it is a great place to teach a kid to swim). There’s everything from Euro-style topless freedom to solo sailing on a catamaran. You’re always steps away from a perfect white-sand palm-lined beach—a mile and a half of it—where coal reefs create a natural swimming pool. Beachside offers everything cruise shippers love (including weight gain): an empire of hedonism with no chance of being mugged. There are two mammoth pools, an adult pool surrounded by mini futon-cabanas for couples, and a kid’s area with water park and pee-pee pool. If you want to pretend you’re on a health kick try a fresh fruit cocktail at one of the pools’ swim-up bars. This Barceló property—they have 160 properties in 16 countries—was just completely overhauled, costing more than a Space Shuttle. Their new state-of-the-art open-air amphitheatre, the Caribbean’s Carnegie Hall, can seat more than 1,300 guests. Nightly entertainment includes modern dance, local music, vaudeville type shows…something different every night. I liked the upper-level bar overlooking this spectacle while enjoying the ever-present cross breezes. Their brand new Club House, an epicenter serving the main lobby for all-three resort sections, connects a superb, sprawling wellness spa, nightclub (they’re still discos to me), 24-hour casino, amphitheatre, and a shopping district. Duty-free premium local rum makes gift buying easy. The gigantic, sparkling, multi-level disco is linked to a casino by way of a casual piano bar. After a singing along to a few piano-man tunes, I took a 2am dip in the ocean with six friends I’d met the night before. You really can do it all here…on 1,800 acres. One of my early exposures to Latin American grace was watching Hall of Fame baseball player Roberto Clemente play when I was a kid. The first Puerto Rican to play Major League Baseball, he overcame American racism by example. He pioneered humanitarian work throughout Latin America, often delivering baseball equipment and food. He died in 1972 plane crash while en route to deliver aid to Nicaraguan earthquake victims. His gracious manner was born in this region, and the hotel’s affable all-Dominican staff share his kindly way—and they’re everywhere (4,000 employees); seems as if there’s one employee to befriend each guest. If you haven’t been whisked into care-freedom yet, the amazing variety of linked restaurants must be unmatched in the Caribbean. Premiere food environments include restaurants inspired by Mexico, France, Italy, Spain, Japan, America, and gourmet Dominican. Most of the food is sourced locally. Plus, international buffets that can topple any diet and a 24-hour sports bar. They call the 1,366 rooms here sanctuaries. Every luxuriously-appointed room had a designer “Barceló Bed” (400-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets, little chocolates suddenly appearing), rain dance-style showers (arouse your inner singer), and views of lush gardens or spectacular aquamarine seas. Every room category is decked out with audio and video technology that would even make a hurricane enjoyable. A private Jacuzzi waits on your balcony. Their upfront, all-encompassing price policy means no mysteries are attached to your bill. I appreciated the abundance of non-motorized water activities, such as snorkeling, kayaking, pedaling water bikes or sailing. Jet Skis (none here) are only fun for the person mounting them. And it was nice to play ping pong outside instead of in somebody’s dank basement. Of course there’s first-rate golf and tennis on demand. The Dominican Republic’s Barceló is kid-friendly, but big enough to keep kids and people who prefer not dealing with them far apart—very far. The toughest question you have to ask yourself at night here is whether or not your shirt is resort casual attire. One key to a successful vacation is forgetting about your life back at home: check. I use to call all-inclusive resorts all-exclusive resorts because they exclude a country’s reality. Many Caribbean resorts are on tiny, exclusively-priced islands with few or no options to experience a genuine in-country experience. The magically tropical and topographically gnarly Dominican Republic, slightly larger than Maryland, offers numerous affordable off-resort excursions: snorkeling, a coffee plantation tour, a dolphin tour, and a nearby town visit (Higuey), to name a few. You can also create your own independent roaming possibilities. The Dominican Republic boasts the three highest mountains in the Caribbean, two exceeding 10,000 feet, which is significant since they rise from sea level. These elevations kick the eastern United States’ ass. Comparatively, the highest mountain in New York State is a bit over 5000 feet, situated in the midst of an already ‘high peaks’ region. But you don’t have to scale peaks to feel this country. Higuey, buzzing with motorbikes, open-air meat markets and colorful fruit stands, is 30 minutes from the resort, and a reminder of the country you’re visiting … and how lucky you are to be in Barceló indulge mode. Visit www.barcelo.com. * * * Bruce Northam’s roam continues on www.americandetour.com. Globetrotter Dogma, 2011-09-27T21:00:22+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-italian-rant-does-this-look-like-fun http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/the-italian-rant-does-this-look-like-fun#When:17:01:10Z …No, I don’t mean the glistening sunbather dreaming upon that bed of hot coals in the foreground of this photo. I’ve never understood the heaving draw of Europe’s swarming Mediterranean beaches. Italy’s Santa Margherita Ligure is no exception—this picturesque, yet heinously overpriced waterside town would provide some hot weather charm if you could find some sand, or a place to sit down and eat without waiting in long lines for a meal a few feet from a busy road, not to mention survive being catapulted by speeding drivers. For me, a huge fan of quiet anywhere, Santa Margherita Ligure in summer is about as relaxing as going to the dentist. The ‘beaches’ are chunky gravel at best, and they charge a hefty sum to recline on rocks or be inserted into domino lounge-chair morgues—just in case you miss subways during rush hour. Other waterside options, the private offerings from costly hotels, are pavement poured among jetty-style boulders waiting to give active children a concussion…or worse…be suffocated by the plastic bags (and who knows what else) floating in the water. If waiting in long lines to dine on average but very pricey roadside fare, only to sit crowded among throngs of adults who see nothing wrong with chain-smoking three feet away from children drinking milk sounds awful, then stay away. Blatant chain-smokers who are ambivalent to the children dining next to them redefine rude. This is where Europe fails as a civilization. Such instances remind me that America has come a long way in trying to do the right thing. If you survive the gravel or cement-and-boulder beaches, restaurant starvation lines, and mealtime smoke-a-thons, your kids still won’t be safe until they’re tucked into bed because the vital pedestrian ‘sidewalks’ linking the town to the shoreline accommodations are toaster-width, pinched between a curvy speedway and towering rock walls. Therefore, inches separate pedestrians from speeding cars, which makes navigating afoot hellish. A slight driver oversight or a misstep off the curb means ambulance. Save your money and your kids…go find a pond in the woods. (Breathe) Also, some might enjoy seeing starry-eyed children being pestered into submission by heartless street vendors in attack mode. I did not. If Atlantic City, NJ, during a weekend heat wave revs your engine, this is your sort of place. Oh yeah, did you notice the belching supertanker-sized cruise ships anchored just offshore? Saving grace: The spectacular hour-long shoreline hike from Santa Margherita to heralded Portofino. However, Portofino has no swimming options, only a murky bay tainted by a glut of moored boats. It’s true, sometimes it’s about the journey, not the destination. Having swam in 125 countries, I admit being sand-spoiled. Although Long Island, NY, conjures up turnpike images for many, its 400-plus miles of coastline have never looked better. Many of Long Island’s half-mile-wide ocean beaches share silky sand and space to ponder. Bye bye, touristy Italia. …No, I don’t mean the glistening sunbather dreaming upon that bed of hot coals in the foreground of this photo. I’ve never understood the heaving draw of Europe’s swarming Mediterranean beaches. Italy’s Santa Margherita Ligure is no exception—this picturesque, yet heinously overpriced waterside town would provide some hot weather charm if you could find some sand, or a place to sit down and eat without waiting in long lines for a meal a few feet from a busy road, not to mention survive being catapulted by speeding drivers. For me, a huge fan of quiet anywhere, Santa Margherita Ligure in summer is about as relaxing as going to the dentist. The ‘beaches’ are chunky gravel at best, and they charge a hefty sum to recline on rocks or be inserted into domino lounge-chair morgues—just in case you miss subways during rush hour. Other waterside options, the private offerings from costly hotels, are pavement poured among jetty-style boulders waiting to give active children a concussion…or worse…be suffocated by the plastic bags (and who knows what else) floating in the water. If waiting in long lines to dine on average but very pricey roadside fare, only to sit crowded among throngs of adults who see nothing wrong with chain-smoking three feet away from children drinking milk sounds awful, then stay away. Blatant chain-smokers who are ambivalent to the children dining next to them redefine rude. This is where Europe fails as a civilization. Such instances remind me that America has come a long way in trying to do the right thing. If you survive the gravel or cement-and-boulder beaches, restaurant starvation lines, and mealtime smoke-a-thons, your kids still won’t be safe until they’re tucked into bed because the vital pedestrian ‘sidewalks’ linking the town to the shoreline accommodations are toaster-width, pinched between a curvy speedway and towering rock walls. Therefore, inches separate pedestrians from speeding cars, which makes navigating afoot hellish. A slight driver oversight or a misstep off the curb means ambulance. Save your money and your kids…go find a pond in the woods. (Breathe) Also, some might enjoy seeing starry-eyed children being pestered into submission by heartless street vendors in attack mode. I did not. If Atlantic City, NJ, during a weekend heat wave revs your engine, this is your sort of place. Oh yeah, did you notice the belching supertanker-sized cruise ships anchored just offshore? Saving grace: The spectacular hour-long shoreline hike from Santa Margherita to heralded Portofino. However, Portofino has no swimming options, only a murky bay tainted by a glut of moored boats. It’s true, sometimes it’s about the journey, not the destination. Having swam in 125 countries, I admit being sand-spoiled. Although Long Island, NY, conjures up turnpike images for many, its 400-plus miles of coastline have never looked better. Many of Long Island’s half-mile-wide ocean beaches share silky sand and space to ponder. Bye bye, touristy Italia. Globetrotter Dogma, 2011-09-06T17:01:10+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/nashvilles-rhythmic-filibuster http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/nashvilles-rhythmic-filibuster#When:21:53:44Z Nashville, Tennessee is a stringed instrument heaven. There is way more to Nashville than country music “hat acts.” Hillbilly fever has evolved into overheating country rock and “newgrass.” Legendary acid rocker Jimmy Hendrix got his start here via road-trips while serving as a paratrooper at nearby Fort Campbell in 1961. After leaving the military in 1962, he moved to Nashville to live on a block lined with black nightclubs and played with the King Casuals until 1963. I was in town for the International Bluegrass Music Association’s 21st annual award ceremony at the historic Ryman Auditorium, the site of the Grand Ole Opreybroadcast until 1974. The IBMA inducted steamboat pilot and banjo virtuoso John Hartford and Earl Scrugg’s wife, Louise, into its Hall of Fame. Louise’s management skills and strong-willed flair helped park bluegrass ensembles on the American map. Earl, born in 1924, and his sons played a few tunes at the ceremony, which was made even more special since the Ryman Auditorium was the birthplace of commercial bluegrass in 1945 when this new American music form blended Scruggs banjo with a mandolin, fiddle, acoustic guitar, and upright bass. Country Music Hall of Fame Another defining characteristic of bluegrass music is having unbridled, improvised fun—musical filibusters. Many agree that bluegrass gave birth to country music. Downtown’s Lower Broadway no cover-charge strip of music joints screams with talent, and gives New Orleans a run for its money. This is a no-music sampling zone: the City of Guitars doesn’t get Jay Z either. Dobro master Jerry Douglas, a 12-time Grammy winner, emceed the event with Allison Kraus as his sidekick. They both performed on the landmark “O Brother, Where Art Thou?” soundtrack, which showcased bluegrass to mainstream audiences. I snuck into the third row center and hobnobbed with the Scruggs family, never revealing my Yankee status. Like many Americana gems, we tip our cap to our British roots. British settlers migrating west across America towed a huge catalog of fiddle tunes and folk songs into the rural heartland. These plaintive stories spread heartfelt pioneer messages, in key. Bluegrass is America’s fundamental soul call(ing). “Bluegrass is America’s last small town…and you don’t have to lock your doors.”–John Hartford Similar to country music, bluegrass is a sector of the music industry where the musicians are proud to show off their age. Nashville, where the TV icon “Hee Haw” was taped, overflows with song with live bands at the airport, MP3-driven music playing at intersections, and every bar having a stage. Many of the people you meet here are musicians, songwriters, or music addicts. This lyrical and musical ‘hook’ capital of the world is home to the Grand Ole Opry, the world’s longest running radio show (1925) that has showcased country music and bluegrass legends and rising stars. The Opry relocated to a suburb of Nashville in 1974. I attended the first weekend performance since a flood submerged the Opry stage under four feet of water. My visit there included a performance by Kevin Costner. Who knew? The backstage tour of this shrine is like a casual Smithsonian tour. But musical inspiration may not have been the inspiration for Nashvillian musical improvisation, or musical filibustering. Before Washington, DC politics associated the filibuster with a legislative drivel-stall tactic, Nashville resident William Walker, the grey-eyed man of destiny, inexplicably and privately conquered vast expanses of Latin America by inventing states ruled by white English speakers. Back in the mid 1800s, such crusades were known as freebooting or filibustering. The former doctor, lawyer, and journalist invaded Mexico in 1853 with 46 men and proclaimed himself President of the Lower Republic of California. After leading forces into Nicaragua, he was elected its President in 1856. While later waging war on Honduras, he was captured and executed in 1860. Walker’s adventurous Central American land-pirate filibuster should be morphed into an infamous hero blues song by a Nashville songwriter. An historical marker salutes Walker on 4th Avenue N and Commerce Street, adjacent to the legendary Ryman Auditorium. Tribute to William Walker Not all of Nashville’s historical figures are wooly. Seventh President Andrew Jackson’s home, the Hermitage, is nearby. The first log-cabin born President to come from humble beginnings moved here at 21 years of age in 1788. Jackson, of Scots-Irish descent, was the last president to know the first six Presidents. His entire family was dead by the time he was 14, but his legendary military and political career lives on at this National Historic Site. While watching a Tennessee Titans football match in a local bar for all seasons, during a musical commercial break, a few folks jumped up to dance a little jig. The old barn dance has come quite a ways. The musician sitting next to me, classically self-taught the American way, flashed me a big Hee Haw smile. The epic song filibuster endures… Don’t be bashful—you’re in Nashville. * * * Schyster-Free Zone –sign in Family Wash restaurant * The Country Music Hall of Fame’s beguiling collection of instruments, vital jewels of our national treasure, are reason enough to visit. http://www.countrymusichalloffame.org. * The only place I didn’t hear music was in Nashville’s fine art-overflowing Parthenon replica. http://www.nashville.gov/parthenon. * The world-class Frist Museum is a converted, mammoth Art Deco Post office. http://www.fristcenter.org. * One of the most unpretentious art gallery scenes this side of Dixie is a monthly event on the upper level of downtown’s canopy mall. http://www.nashvilledowntown.com/play/first-saturday-art-crawl * Lower Broadway’s Robert’s Western World, though touristy, is the real deal for live music, with New York drink prices (divided by 3). http://www.robertswesternworld.com. * The International Bluegrass Music Association keeps the good times a-rollin. http://www.ibma.org. * I live a mile from Manhattan’s Ground Zero. We all know what happened there in 2001, but what people not from the New York City area don’t know is that it took about 18 months for most conversations in the region to stop being about 9-11 and about the more trivial things people tend to talk about with strangers—sports, television, and movies. In those first 18 months, conversations were real, heart-to-heart, and of the essence…just like they are when you travel far away from your home to places without electricity. This same phenomenon occurred in Nashville during the months following its May 2010 flood. Nashville Nashville, Tennessee is a stringed instrument heaven. There is way more to Nashville than country music “hat acts.” Hillbilly fever has evolved into overheating country rock and “newgrass.” Legendary acid rocker Jimmy Hendrix got his start here via road-trips while serving as a paratrooper at nearby Fort Campbell in 1961. After leaving the military in 1962, he moved to Nashville to live on a block lined with black nightclubs and played with the King Casuals until 1963. I was in town for the International Bluegrass Music Association’s 21st annual award ceremony at the historic Ryman Auditorium, the site of the Grand Ole Opreybroadcast until 1974. The IBMA inducted steamboat pilot and banjo virtuoso John Hartford and Earl Scrugg’s wife, Louise, into its Hall of Fame. Louise’s management skills and strong-willed flair helped park bluegrass ensembles on the American map. Earl, born in 1924, and his sons played a few tunes at the ceremony, which was made even more special since the Ryman Auditorium was the birthplace of commercial bluegrass in 1945 when this new American music form blended Scruggs banjo with a mandolin, fiddle, acoustic guitar, and upright bass. Country Music Hall of Fame Another defining characteristic of bluegrass music is having unbridled, improvised fun—musical filibusters. Many agree that bluegrass gave birth to country music. Downtown’s Lower Broadway no cover-charge strip of music joints screams with talent, and gives New Orleans a run for its money. This is a no-music sampling zone: the City of Guitars doesn’t get Jay Z either. Dobro master Jerry Douglas, a 12-time Grammy winner, emceed the event with Allison Kraus as his sidekick. They both performed on the landmark “O Brother, Where Art Thou?” soundtrack, which showcased bluegrass to mainstream audiences. I snuck into the third row center and hobnobbed with the Scruggs family, never revealing my Yankee status. Like many Americana gems, we tip our cap to our British roots. British settlers migrating west across America towed a huge catalog of fiddle tunes and folk songs into the rural heartland. These plaintive stories spread heartfelt pioneer messages, in key. Bluegrass is America’s fundamental soul call(ing). “Bluegrass is America’s last small town…and you don’t have to lock your doors.”–John Hartford Similar to country music, bluegrass is a sector of the music industry where the musicians are proud to show off their age. Nashville, where the TV icon “Hee Haw” was taped, overflows with song with live bands at the airport, MP3-driven music playing at intersections, and every bar having a stage. Many of the people you meet here are musicians, songwriters, or music addicts. This lyrical and musical ‘hook’ capital of the world is home to the Grand Ole Opry, the world’s longest running radio show (1925) that has showcased country music and bluegrass legends and rising stars. The Opry relocated to a suburb of Nashville in 1974. I attended the first weekend performance since a flood submerged the Opry stage under four feet of water. My visit there included a performance by Kevin Costner. Who knew? The backstage tour of this shrine is like a casual Smithsonian tour. But musical inspiration may not have been the inspiration for Nashvillian musical improvisation, or musical filibustering. Before Washington, DC politics associated the filibuster with a legislative drivel-stall tactic, Nashville resident William Walker, the grey-eyed man of destiny, inexplicably and privately conquered vast expanses of Latin America by inventing states ruled by white English speakers. Back in the mid 1800s, such crusades were known as freebooting or filibustering. The former doctor, lawyer, and journalist invaded Mexico in 1853 with 46 men and proclaimed himself President of the Lower Republic of California. After leading forces into Nicaragua, he was elected its President in 1856. While later waging war on Honduras, he was captured and executed in 1860. Walker’s adventurous Central American land-pirate filibuster should be morphed into an infamous hero blues song by a Nashville songwriter. An historical marker salutes Walker on 4th Avenue N and Commerce Street, adjacent to the legendary Ryman Auditorium. Tribute to William Walker Not all of Nashville’s historical figures are wooly. Seventh President Andrew Jackson’s home, the Hermitage, is nearby. The first log-cabin born President to come from humble beginnings moved here at 21 years of age in 1788. Jackson, of Scots-Irish descent, was the last president to know the first six Presidents. His entire family was dead by the time he was 14, but his legendary military and political career lives on at this National Historic Site. While watching a Tennessee Titans football match in a local bar for all seasons, during a musical commercial break, a few folks jumped up to dance a little jig. The old barn dance has come quite a ways. The musician sitting next to me, classically self-taught the American way, flashed me a big Hee Haw smile. The epic song filibuster endures… Don’t be bashful—you’re in Nashville. * * * Schyster-Free Zone –sign in Family Wash restaurant * The Country Music Hall of Fame’s beguiling collection of instruments, vital jewels of our national treasure, are reason enough to visit. http://www.countrymusichalloffame.org. * The only place I didn’t hear music was in Nashville’s fine art-overflowing Parthenon replica. http://www.nashville.gov/parthenon. * The world-class Frist Museum is a converted, mammoth Art Deco Post office. http://www.fristcenter.org. * One of the most unpretentious art gallery scenes this side of Dixie is a monthly event on the upper level of downtown’s canopy mall. http://www.nashvilledowntown.com/play/first-saturday-art-crawl * Lower Broadway’s Robert’s Western World, though touristy, is the real deal for live music, with New York drink prices (divided by 3). http://www.robertswesternworld.com. * The International Bluegrass Music Association keeps the good times a-rollin. http://www.ibma.org. * I live a mile from Manhattan’s Ground Zero. We all know what happened there in 2001, but what people not from the New York City area don’t know is that it took about 18 months for most conversations in the region to stop being about 9-11 and about the more trivial things people tend to talk about with strangers—sports, television, and movies. In those first 18 months, conversations were real, heart-to-heart, and of the essence…just like they are when you travel far away from your home to places without electricity. This same phenomenon occurred in Nashville during the months following its May 2010 flood. Nashville Globetrotter Dogma, 2011-06-15T21:53:44+00:00 http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/new-orleans-outer-boroughs http://www.lipulse.com/blog/article/new-orleans-outer-boroughs#When:22:59:19Z New Orleans gets all the glory in Louisiana, but there are new worlds to discover just beyond its borders—and though close to or connected to the Gulf of Mexico, they’re not covered in BP oil. ST. TAMMANY PARISH New Orleans’ Upper East Side Casual but not country, the Northshore of Lake Pontchartrain has been a New Orleans getaway for more than a century. A 24-mile causeway—the world’s longest over water bridge—connects St Tammany and New Orleans culturally, and as a culinary destination. But St. Tammany owns a vibe all its own. Suggestions: Rip’s on the Lake: Rips on the LakeCosmopolitan but casual, this gourmet retreat from New Orleans has a stately front porch with cast-iron tables and a great view of sunset over Lake Pontchartrain. A longtime favorite for specialties like Trout Audrey and pairing local Abita Beer blends with menu items. 1917 Lakeshore Drive, Mandeville, (985) 727-2829, http://www.opentable.com/rips-on-the-lake. Louie and the Redhead Lady: Louie and the Redhead LadyThis restaurant might look a bit like a truck stop from the parking lot, but inside it’s all about the food and making people grin. Creamed spinach with breakfast? Why not. Chef Louie celebrates the complex science of comfort food, and he might just sit at your table to discuss the complex science of where you’re visiting from! Ginger, his red-haired wife (but she’s not the redhead; that would be Louie’s deceased mother) helps balance Louie’s various unanimous claims, including: Real butter without shame. 1851 Florida, St., Mandeville, (985) 626-8101. http://www.louieandtheredheadlady.com. Big Branch Marsh National Wildlife Refuge: Swamp oh la laKayaking amongst Alligators should be on everyone’s bucket list. A Southern American bayou, a Louisiana French term derived from the Choctaw Indian word ‘bayuk’, is a sluggish marshy tributary of a lake or river—heaven for alligators and overhead wildlife. Paddling from your put-in spot to Lake Pontchartrain winds through cypress slews, coastal marsh, and a number of wildlife habitats while scores of migrating birds live or fly above. Great blue herons, great and snowy egrets, ruby-throated hummingbirds and various woodpeckers, including the rare red-cockaded woodpecker are easier to spot in a quiet craft. The gators see you coming, but don’t seem to mind. Lacombe, http://www.bigbranchmarsh.fws.gov . Friends Coastal Restaurant: Creole Red Hat TomatoesInhale a ‘Key West meets Louisiana’ menu of classic coastal fare while dining on a large deck overlooking the scenic Tchefuncte River. Watching boats make their way toward Lake Pontchartrain takes your mind off the calorie count. And, it was my pleasure to meet a senior women’s social group here, the Creole Red Hat Tomatoes. 407 St. Tammany St., Madisonville. (985) 845-7303. http://www.friendscoastal.com  Lake Pontchartrain Basin Maritime Museum: Imagine an authentic boatbuilding school beneath a maritime museum showcasing the important maritime history of the area dating back more than two centuries. The Civil War history in this area alone could support a museum, but this modern facility is a feast for any maritime mind. A nearby landmark is the restored Madisonville Lighthouse, built in 1837. The museum is planning to offer public boat rides to the lighthouse, now accessible only by water. They also host a very popular Wooden Boat Fest each fall. 133 Mabel Drive, Madisonville. (985) 845-9200, http://www.lpbmm.org. La Maison: Private manor gourmet dining has made accessible in Abita Springs by this new restaurant in a 19th-century former hotel setting on beautiful grounds. 21516 Highway 36, Abita Springs, (985) 327-7200. Kickstand Bike Rental: Rail to Bike TrailConveniently located near start point for the 10-mile bike ride from Mandeville to Abita Springs on the Tammany Trace, the state’s only rails to trails conversion hike/bike pathway. The Trace winds 31 flat miles through the parish from Slidell to Covington and has many entry points. Abita Springs is an eclectic and picturesque little town known for Abita beer, fun events like the Whole Town Garage Sale and Bicycle Fest, and the Abita Mystery House. Home of the Abita Beer Brewery, this is a place where people aren’t afraid to substitute beer for water in their recipes—making food ‘barley noticeable’. 690 Lafitte St., Mandeville, (985) 626-9300 http://www.kickstand.bz. Abita Mystery House: Abita Mystery HousePainter and creator John Preble’s sprawling complex of southern folk art in an indoor/outdoor odyssey that visits Ali Sapiens (Alligator body, human skull head) and a UFO wreck (an AirStream crashed into by aliens). Also known as the UCM Museum, this roadside attraction is a folk art environment with 1000s of found objects and home made inventions. Visitors see a miniature Southern town with push-buttons that activate animated displays. On exhibit are odd collections, memorabilia, pure junk, and old arcade machines that are still fun to play. 22275 Hwy 36, Abita Springs, (985) 892-2624. http://www.ucmmuseum.com. Palmettos on the Bayou: A casual, classically Louisiana restaurant built among cypress trees on the banks of Bayou Bonfouca. Several decks, bars inside and out, and a boardwalk take advantage of the setting encased by foliage (lush plants that like to keep their feet wet). A great spot to enjoy specialties like seared duck or barbecue shrimp-stuffed poboys. 1901 Bayou Lane, Slidell (985) 643-0050, http://www.palmettosonthebayou.com. Pearl River Eco-Tours: Not going on a swamp tour here is like not eating pizza in New York City. The Honey Island Swamp is one of the most pristine in the country, undeveloped and beautiful, especially in spring when water lilies and irises bloom and wildlife sightings are abundant. See birds, boars and alligators as you explore this verdant habitat by boat with a knowledgeable guide. 55050 Highway 90, Slidell, (985) 649-4200. http://www.pearlriverecotours.com. Ps, Louisiana has 54 parishes, the term they use instead of counties. * For more information about recreating in St. Tammany Parish visit http://www.louisiananorthshore.com . * * * * * ST. BERNARD PARISH New Orleans’ Brooklyn Located just five miles from downtown New Orleans, its scenic beauty, cultural treasures and beautiful waterways make it feel as if you’re a world away. Lake Borne, the Mississippi River, Breton Sound, and the Gulf make this a paradise for fishing, bird watching and aimless leisure. The Isleños culture thrives here as descendants from the Canary Islands, who flocked to the lower portion of the parish joining French pioneers who arrived in the 1720’s, remain strong and proud. Suggestions: Rocky & Carlos’ Restaurant: The King of all steam table joints was opened in 1965 by two Italian families from Alcamo, Sicily—their authentic recipes soon became famous. Customers travel far and wide for their macaroni and cheese, but that’s just a tease. 613 West St. Bernard Highway, Chalmette, (504) 279-8223, http://www.rockyandcarlos.com. Bayou Charters: Bayou Charters Captain CharlieReeling in a 15-pound Gulf of Mexico Redfish is thrilling. Founded in 1991 by Capt. Charlie Thomason, Bayou Charters remains Southeast Louisiana’s premier fishing guide service. Capt. Charlie’s accolades are some of the nation’s highest in light-tackle saltwater angling, co-hosting on ESPN2, guiding documentaries for National Geographic, winning national Redfish tournaments and educating anglers through numerous media avenues with his extensive knowledge of inshore angling. Nationally recognized as the Redfish capital of the world, Hopedale’s marshes can offer hundreds of fish daily from Speckled Trout, Southern Flounder, Black Drum, Jack Crevalle, Triple Tale and of course, Redfish. Being a brackish estuary, it’s not uncommon to catch Largemouth Bass, Blue Catfish and 100 lb Alligator Gars. Lodge Elevated to Withstand FloodsYou can sleep across the street from the fishing boat dock at Charlie’s Silverside Lodge—after a classic crawfish boil in the open-air space beneath it. 4521 Hopedale Highway, Hopedale, http://www.captaincharlie.com. Crawfish Boil Islenos Museum & Village: Before Hurricane Katrina, when St. Bernard Parish had 67,000 residents, two-thirds of them had Canary Island ancestry (in whole or part). The parish population is now 39,000, but the Islenos culture thrives on. St. Bernard Parish has a unique story to tell of the Canary Islanders, who were recruited Spanish colonists that arrived in St. Bernard Parish between 1778 and 1783. Over many generations, and through great difficulties, they have succeeded in preserving their warm heritage and their language. This is a living window into their culture. 1357 Bayou Road, Chalmette, (504) 874-0635, http://www.losislenos.org. Ps, Eskimos have a hundred different words to describe ice. Louisiana returns the favor when naming hot sauces. * For more information about recreating in St. Bernard Parish visit http://www.visitstbernard.com. * * * Bruce Northam’s wander continues on http://www.americandetour.com. Hot Sauces in Artigues Abita MarketPS: Eskimos have a hundred different words to describe ice. Louisiana returns the favor when naming hot sauces (in Artigue’s Abita Market). New Orleans gets all the glory in Louisiana, but there are new worlds to discover just beyond its borders—and though close to or connected to the Gulf of Mexico, they’re not covered in BP oil. ST. TAMMANY PARISH New Orleans’ Upper East Side Casual but not country, the Northshore of Lake Pontchartrain has been a New Orleans getaway for more than a century. A 24-mile causeway—the world’s longest over water bridge—connects St Tammany and New Orleans culturally, and as a culinary destination. But St. Tammany owns a vibe all its own. Suggestions: Rip’s on the Lake: Rips on the LakeCosmopolitan but casual, this gourmet retreat from New Orleans has a stately front porch with cast-iron tables and a great view of sunset over Lake Pontchartrain. A longtime favorite for specialties like Trout Audrey and pairing local Abita Beer blends with menu items. 1917 Lakeshore Drive, Mandeville, (985) 727-2829, http://www.opentable.com/rips-on-the-lake. Louie and the Redhead Lady: Louie and the Redhead LadyThis restaurant might look a bit like a truck stop from the parking lot, but inside it’s all about the food and making people grin. Creamed spinach with breakfast? Why not. Chef Louie celebrates the complex science of comfort food, and he might just sit at your table to discuss the complex science of where you’re visiting from! Ginger, his red-haired wife (but she’s not the redhead; that would be Louie’s deceased mother) helps balance Louie’s various unanimous claims, including: Real butter without shame. 1851 Florida, St., Mandeville, (985) 626-8101. http://www.louieandtheredheadlady.com. Big Branch Marsh National Wildlife Refuge: Swamp oh la laKayaking amongst Alligators should be on everyone’s bucket list. A Southern American bayou, a Louisiana French term derived from the Choctaw Indian word ‘bayuk’, is a sluggish marshy tributary of a lake or river—heaven for alligators and overhead wildlife. Paddling from your put-in spot to Lake Pontchartrain winds through cypress slews, coastal marsh, and a number of wildlife habitats while scores of migrating birds live or fly above. Great blue herons, great and snowy egrets, ruby-throated hummingbirds and various woodpeckers, including the rare red-cockaded woodpecker are easier to spot in a quiet craft. The gators see you coming, but don’t seem to mind. Lacombe, http://www.bigbranchmarsh.fws.gov . Friends Coastal Restaurant: Creole Red Hat TomatoesInhale a ‘Key West meets Louisiana’ menu of classic coastal fare while dining on a large deck overlooking the scenic Tchefuncte River. Watching boats make their way toward Lake Pontchartrain takes your mind off the calorie count. And, it was my pleasure to meet a senior women’s social group here, the Creole Red Hat Tomatoes. 407 St. Tammany St., Madisonville. (985) 845-7303. http://www.friendscoastal.com  Lake Pontchartrain Basin Maritime Museum: Imagine an authentic boatbuilding school beneath a maritime museum showcasing the important maritime history of the area dating back more than two centuries. The Civil War history in this area alone could support a museum, but this modern facility is a feast for any maritime mind. A nearby landmark is the restored Madisonville Lighthouse, built in 1837. The museum is planning to offer public boat rides to the lighthouse, now accessible only by water. They also host a very popular Wooden Boat Fest each fall. 133 Mabel Drive, Madisonville. (985) 845-9200, http://www.lpbmm.org. La Maison: Private manor gourmet dining has made accessible in Abita Springs by this new restaurant in a 19th-century former hotel setting on beautiful grounds. 21516 Highway 36, Abita Springs, (985) 327-7200. Kickstand Bike Rental: Rail to Bike TrailConveniently located near start point for the 10-mile bike ride from Mandeville to Abita Springs on the Tammany Trace, the state’s only rails to trails conversion hike/bike pathway. The Trace winds 31 flat miles through the parish from Slidell to Covington and has many entry points. Abita Springs is an eclectic and picturesque little town known for Abita beer, fun events like the Whole Town Garage Sale and Bicycle Fest, and the Abita Mystery House. Home of the Abita Beer Brewery, this is a place where people aren’t afraid to substitute beer for water in their recipes—making food ‘barley noticeable’. 690 Lafitte St., Mandeville, (985) 626-9300 http://www.kickstand.bz. Abita Mystery House: Abita Mystery HousePainter and creator John Preble’s sprawling complex of southern folk art in an indoor/outdoor odyssey that visits Ali Sapiens (Alligator body, human skull head) and a UFO wreck (an AirStream crashed into by aliens). Also known as the UCM Museum, this roadside attraction is a folk art environment with 1000s of found objects and home made inventions. Visitors see a miniature Southern town with push-buttons that activate animated displays. On exhibit are odd collections, memorabilia, pure junk, and old arcade machines that are still fun to play. 22275 Hwy 36, Abita Springs, (985) 892-2624. http://www.ucmmuseum.com. Palmettos on the Bayou: A casual, classically Louisiana restaurant built among cypress trees on the banks of Bayou Bonfouca. Several decks, bars inside and out, and a boardwalk take advantage of the setting encased by foliage (lush plants that like to keep their feet wet). A great spot to enjoy specialties like seared duck or barbecue shrimp-stuffed poboys. 1901 Bayou Lane, Slidell (985) 643-0050, http://www.palmettosonthebayou.com. Pearl River Eco-Tours: Not going on a swamp tour here is like not eating pizza in New York City. The Honey Island Swamp is one of the most pristine in the country, undeveloped and beautiful, especially in spring when water lilies and irises bloom and wildlife sightings are abundant. See birds, boars and alligators as you explore this verdant habitat by boat with a knowledgeable guide. 55050 Highway 90, Slidell, (985) 649-4200. http://www.pearlriverecotours.com. Ps, Louisiana has 54 parishes, the term they use instead of counties. * For more information about recreating in St. Tammany Parish visit http://www.louisiananorthshore.com . * * * * * ST. BERNARD PARISH New Orleans’ Brooklyn Located just five miles from downtown New Orleans, its scenic beauty, cultural treasures and beautiful waterways make it feel as if you’re a world away. Lake Borne, the Mississippi River, Breton Sound, and the Gulf make this a paradise for fishing, bird watching and aimless leisure. The Isleños culture thrives here as descendants from the Canary Islands, who flocked to the lower portion of the parish joining French pioneers who arrived in the 1720’s, remain strong and proud. Suggestions: Rocky & Carlos’ Restaurant: The King of all steam table joints was opened in 1965 by two Italian families from Alcamo, Sicily—their authentic recipes soon became famous. Customers travel far and wide for their macaroni and cheese, but that’s just a tease. 613 West St. Bernard Highway, Chalmette, (504) 279-8223, http://www.rockyandcarlos.com. Bayou Charters: Bayou Charters Captain CharlieReeling in a 15-pound Gulf of Mexico Redfish is thrilling. Founded in 1991 by Capt. Charlie Thomason, Bayou Charters remains Southeast Louisiana’s premier fishing guide service. Capt. Charlie’s accolades are some of the nation’s highest in light-tackle saltwater angling, co-hosting on ESPN2, guiding documentaries for National Geographic, winning national Redfish tournaments and educating anglers through numerous media avenues with his extensive knowledge of inshore angling. Nationally recognized as the Redfish capital of the world, Hopedale’s marshes can offer hundreds of fish daily from Speckled Trout, Southern Flounder, Black Drum, Jack Crevalle, Triple Tale and of course, Redfish. Being a brackish estuary, it’s not uncommon to catch Largemouth Bass, Blue Catfish and 100 lb Alligator Gars. Lodge Elevated to Withstand FloodsYou can sleep across the street from the fishing boat dock at Charlie’s Silverside Lodge—after a classic crawfish boil in the open-air space beneath it. 4521 Hopedale Highway, Hopedale, http://www.captaincharlie.com. Crawfish Boil Islenos Museum & Village: Before Hurricane Katrina, when St. Bernard Parish had 67,000 residents, two-thirds of them had Canary Island ancestry (in whole or part). The parish population is now 39,000, but the Islenos culture thrives on. St. Bernard Parish has a unique story to tell of the Canary Islanders, who were recruited Spanish colonists that arrived in St. Bernard Parish between 1778 and 1783. Over many generations, and through great difficulties, they have succeeded in preserving their warm heritage and their language. This is a living window into their culture. 1357 Bayou Road, Chalmette, (504) 874-0635, http://www.losislenos.org. Ps, Eskimos have a hundred different words to describe ice. Louisiana returns the favor when naming hot sauces. * For more information about recreating in St. Bernard Parish visit http://www.visitstbernard.com. * * * Bruce Northam’s wander continues on http://www.americandetour.com. Hot Sauces in Artigues Abita MarketPS: Eskimos have a hundred different words to describe ice. Louisiana returns the favor when naming hot sauces (in Artigue’s Abita Market). Globetrotter Dogma, 2011-06-07T22:59:19+00:00