BLOGhttps://livesnaplove.com/blog/Thu, 11 Jun 2026 07:50:06 +0000en-USSite-Server v@build.version@ (http://www.squarespace.com)falseThe Ultimate Guide to Golden Hour PhotographyPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSAudrey AnnTue, 26 May 2026 10:00:19 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/golden-hour-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:69ff42bbab8140096f6541faGolden hour is a time LOVED by photographers! Its warm, golden, honeyed tones and soft light make it a firm favourite for all types of photographers - portrait and lifestyle photographers included!

But what exactly is golden hour? Why exactly is it considered a great time to shoot? And more importantly, how can you use it to create next level, beautiful portraits or images of your family?

That my friend, is exactly what we’re going to look at today!

So what exactly is golden hour?

Even if you weren’t a photographer, you’ll probably have noticed this type of light.

It’s that time of day when the light turns really golden, and everything looks really warm and magical. The sun is low in the sky, and the shadows are long.

It’s just a really beautiful time of day, so even if you didn’t know that it was golden hour, you will probably have noticed the light!

Portrait and lifestyle / documentary photographers like me love this light for a few reasons:

First of all, the colour of the light. The light at this time has a really warm, honeyed tone that just makes everything look more magical and ethereal!

Secondly, the light is softer at this time, so you don’t get the same harsh shadows and contrasty light that you get when the sun is higher in the sky, which in turn, makes it a tad easier to work with.

Finally, the direction of the light is easier to use as it wraps around your subject more easily, helping you light your subject from all directions.

Which all in all, makes golden hour a magical time for photography!

(Although as a side note, please don’t get me wrong, other type of light can be beautiful too! For example, I love shooting in full sun and on cloudy days, because both give a different look. The goal should never be to ONLY shoot in the golden hour, but rather, have it as one option in your toolkit of lighting strategies!)

So when is golden hour?

You get golden hour twice a day (whoo hoo!)

Golden hour happens just after sunrise, as the sun passes up and over the horizon, and the hour before sunset, again, just as it’s low in the sky just before it sets below the horizon.

The time of day this occurs will change based on the time of year, and where it the world you are!

For example, I’m based in Scotland, where in summer, sunset doesn’t happen until around 10pm and is already up by 5am in the morning.

Although my son used to wake me up at that time (so I could at least look at something nice out of the window while trying to mainline coffee) it’s far too early to get up, dress and get somewhere for, so for me personally, golden hour is NOT a time of day I use in the summer.

But in winter? Love it! So it’s worth noting that if it’s difficult to shoot in summer because of how early/late golden hour is, leave using this light until spring / autumn, when you can get a similar look (i.e you’re not in a massive winter coat and gloves!) but at a more reasonable hour.

So golden hour will be different for you based on where you are in the world, but just remember that it’s the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset regardless.

What time should I shoot at?

Aim to be at your location an hour before sunset, understanding that best light will be around 30 minutes before the sun sets (or of course you could go at sunrise, if you are more of a morning person!)

Please note that the sun sets very quickly once it gets low in the sky, so it does change rapidly at that time too - so be prepared! This is one of those times when it’s great to have shooting plan ready to go before you start.

Which leads me neatly onto:

Scout out your location at the time you plan to shoot!

To make life about a thousand times easier for you, make sure you set aside some time to scout out any new locations BEFORE the day you plan to shoot.

As part of that, think about where the sun is going to be at the time you shoot, and the direction the sun will set. That way you know exactly what time the sun will go, and where you are going to place your subject ahead of time.

(Want to know how to scout a location and plan your shoot like a pro? Check out Location Lab!)

It is still Golden Hour if it’s cloudy?

Yes….and no 😁

When the weather is cloudy and overcast, although technically it’s still golden hour, if the sun is behind a bunch of clouds, you aren’t going to get that warm golden tones that we associate with golden hour.

Although the light itself will still be soft and directional, it won’t have that same ethereal look you get from golden hour photos.

So the best time for golden hour photography will be then there are either no clouds at all, or they are very sparse, or you get that low lying cloud puffy clouds (these look great!)

Where to place your subject during the golden hour

One of the good things about golden hour is that you have a bit more leeway about where to place your subject.

You can light your subject from the front or the side, but my absolute favourite way to light my subjects during the golden hour is to use backlight!

This is when the light is behind your subject, and you as the photographer are shooting into the light.

With the golden hour, you’ll get that soft hazy look to your images that golden hour is most loved for!

However -just like you would want to do when shooting during a sunny day or cloudy day - getting variety from one place is a much better idea.

So aim to light your subject from all directions and you’ll be golden (pun not intended, but it’s a good one so I’ll leave it)

What camera settings should I use?

Of course, the actual camera settings for golden hour is going to depend on a number of factors - so as much as I wish I could give you plug and play settings, I can’t!

However, I personally use a wide aperture so I can get that beautiful buttery blurred backgrounds - maybe something like F2.8.

Then keep your shutter speed as high as it needs to be to freeze the motion in your image. For a single person portrait, that could be something like 1/125 but for kids, you might want to go a bit higher than that!

Pop your ISO wherever it needs to be to expose correctly so you don’t get unwanted grain and noise in your images.

I definitely recommend spot metering in this situation, especially if you are using backlight (otherwise hello accidental silhouette!) and shooting in manual mode,

Focusing during the golden hour

When backlighting your subject, you might struggle to lock focus on your subject.

Your camera relies on finding areas of contrast to latch onto, and the hazy look of backlight can stop the lens from being able to “latch on”

I find that using my lens hood helps, but often I don’t have a lens hood with (most of them have disappeared into the void where the missing socks are over the last 10 years!) so a useful trick is just to cup your hand above the front of the lens (using your hand like a little sun hat) to shield the lens from the worst of the light. Then you can lock focus, take your hand away, and start shooting.

Remember that all the other points relating to getting tack sharp focus will help you here too!

My fave lenses for a golden hour photography

Although you can use ANY lenses for golden hour photography, here’s my personal favourites:

First of all, I use my Sigma 35mm Art Lensfor wide angle / environmental style shots.

When you have a beautiful golden hour sky behind your subject, it just makes sense to include more of the environment! It’s also great for those times you are shooting a family or group and need that wider angle.

This is also the lens I tend to pop on when I’m shooting more documentary style shots - again, because I want to include more of the environment for context.

The second lens I use is my Canon 135mm, particularly for single person or couple portraits - the dreamy background blur really lends itself beautifully to golden hour portraits! (Although you can use this families too - it might just mean you are very far back from your subject!)

I just think the dreamy background blur you get with this lens pairs beautifully with the soft ethereal light of golden hour, but it won’t give you too much of the environment.

Again, I’m all for variety, so I tend to take both with me (and probably my 85mm lens too)

As I say, you do you, but that’s the two that make their way into my camera bag.

Editing your golden hour photos

You can really “shoouzh” up your golden hour photos with a little light editing!

I personally use Lightroom and Lightroom Classic, and for many golden hour photos, I’ll dial up the warmth a tad by moving the white balance sliders over to the yellow and magenta sides.

However, an even better tool to use can be use the colour mixer - adding darker warmth to the shadows and a lighter tone to the highlights.

I also find that I sometimes need to balance my exposure, using the masking tools to bring up exposure on my subject and dialing down the exposure in the background.

(I use my Polished Presets for all of this, it’s much, much quicker and I can edit a photo in seconds, golden hour or no)

Final Thoughts

We’ve covered quite a lot into this dive into golden hour photography, and I hope you’ve found it helpful!

But as I’ve said before, golden hour is just ONE type of light, and there’s no way we are going to be able to take every single photo at this time - it’s just simply not practical.

Most likely your life happens outwith those times, so if you’re shooting lifestyle or documentary photos, it’s unlikely to be at golden hour. And even if you are in business, you can’t exactly just offer ONE time of day (it pays to be adaptable!)

That’s why it’s SO important to have a full range of techniques you can use, so you can work in full sun, cloudy days AND on golden hour (and heck, there is SO much more you can do during the golden hour - this was just an intro!)

So if you want a toolkit of strategies you can use to take beautiful photos in full sun, cloudy days and more advanced tweaks for the golden hour, be sure to check out Sun to Shadebefore you go and get plug and plug techniques you can use on your next shoot!

SUN TO SHADE

Master the art of photographing outdoors with a toolkit of lighting strategies you can use to work the light around you with confidence - even in harsh sun or on dull overcast days!

LEARN MORE

Other posts you may want to check out:

4 Lighting Myths That Are Holding You Back

8 Photography Lighting Ideas for More Creative Photos

Create Impactful Photos in Boring Light

FAQ: Golden Hour Photography FAQ

WHEN IS THE GOLDEN HOUR?

Golden hour is the hour just after sunrise and the hour just before sunset, and varies from month to month, and where in the world you are!

WHY DO PHOTOGRAPHERS LOVE THE GOLDEN HOUR?

Photographers love the golden hour due to the fact that the light is much softer so there is less hard lines and harsh contrast, which is easier to work with, plus the light itself is warm and golden. This makes images taken at this time look more ethereal and magical, especially when taken with backlight!

WHAT TIME SHOULD I PLAN TO SHOOT A GOLDEN HOUR SESSION?

Golden hour rarely lasts a whole hour - more like 45 minutes. Get to your chosen location around 1 hour before sunset, with the understanding that the BEST light will be 30 minutes before sunset. Work quickly though, as the light changes rapidly at this time!

WHAT CAMERA SETTINGS SHOULD I USE FOR GOLDEN HOUR PHOTOGRAPHY?

I recommend using an aperture of around f2.8 to get a beautiful blurred background, with a shutter speed of at least 1/125. Always spot meter and shoot in manual mode for best results!

WHY AM I HAVING TROUBLE FOCUSING?

Light streaming into the camera lens can play havoc with your camera’s auto focus system. Use a lens hood, or simply cup your hand over the front of the lens to block some of the light from coming into the lens. The find focus, and remove your hand! You might also want to manual focus if you are still having trouble.

WHERE SHOULD I PLACE MY SUBJECT DURING THE GOLDEN HOUR?

Although you can light your subject from many directions in the golden hour, using backlight is REALLY popular, because it gives you that warm “glow” behind your subjects. To use backlight, you (the photographer) shoot into the light - either directly or indirectly - and your subject has the light at their back.

HOW DO I EDIT GOLDEN HOUR PHOTOS?

You can dial up the warmth by moving the white balance sliders over to the yellow and magenta sides, and / or using the colour mixer to add warmth to the shadows and highlights. You will probably also need to balance your exposure, using the masking tools to brighten your subject and darken the background.

]]>The Ultimate Guide to Golden Hour Photography5 Easy Prompt Ideas for Natural and Authentic Child Photos CHILD & LIFESTYLEAudrey AnnTue, 19 May 2026 10:00:33 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/child-photography-prompts-and-ideas5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:69ff4aedad909a051f0fd862Capturing natural, genuine smiles and authentic expressions when photographing children can be tough!

They either don’t want to be in front of the camera at ALL, or worse, they’ve have years of being conditioned to “give me a smile” when the camera comes out so you end up with fake, cheesy grins that look forced and unnatural.

The best antidote to this is to have some simple prompts in your back pocket that you can whip out to help you capture more relaxed and joyful expressions!

When I first started out taking pictures of children, I know that I would feel really awkward (yes, me, never mind the kids) because I simply didn’t know how to get the relaxed, joyful expressions that I wanted, so my images looked stiff and forced.

Of course, this led me to start trying out different things with different age groups, until I had built up a playbook of ideas I could use on kids of all ages.

(Want to get your hands on that playbook? You can! It’s called the Playful Prompts Playbook and it’s just $9 for 99 ideas!)

Here I’m going to share a few easy ideas with you, for different age groups, that should help you feel more in control, and get those genuine, happy expressions that you want.

But before we start:

What age are you photographing?

The first thing to bear in mind is the AGE of the child makes a HUGE difference to which prompt to use! For example, the prompts that work on a 5 year old will have the opposite effect on a tween.

Plus, every child is different and will respond to different things, which is why one prompt might work for one child, but not another. This is why it can be helpful to have a few different ideas you can pull out if one doesn’t work!

The tips I’m going to give you here vary a little on who they work best for, but remember it’s a range, and you can adapt if you need to!

Without

Prompts to get smiles from toddlers

Aahhhh, toddlers.

Photographing toddlers was probably where the expression “never work with children or animals” first came to pass. As much as I truly LOVE that age (its my favourite!) toddlers don't like to follow any rules, will run off at a moment's notice, rarely sit still for long, and can fall into a tantrum at the drop of a hat!

Which is why it's no wonder they can be one of the trickiest age groups to photograph 😂

There is an upside to photographing toddlers though - and that is you will always get an honest and natural photo as they simply don’t know how to fake it yet and to me, that is a wonderful thing! Plus, they are incredibly funny, full of energy and naturally joyful (if you let them run wild for a bit) so it's a terrific age to capture and well worth the effort.

THE RED LIGHT GREEN LIGHT GAME

I have a stack of prompts for working with toddlers, but my favourite has to be the “Red Light, Green Light” game.

This is such a simple prompt - when you shout green the child has to run, and stop when you shout red!

Of course, this turns the whole thing into a game, which toddlers adore, so you get happy, joyful expressions.

But the best part of this prompt is that you get to call the shots on where to place your subject!

So I have the start point with them standing in front of a great backdrop and in great light. (Before I even bring them in I have my exposure settings correct, and I’ve already figured out the best focus technique so I’m good to go!)

At this point, you can slowly count down from 3 before you yell “green!”.

The kids tend to get giddy with excitement - and that’s when you snap some pictures (and then again when you shout red!)

GIVE SIMPLE DIRECTIONS

If you prefer something a little more relaxed, I tend to give simple directions to go somewhere, for example "Can you find a stick?" "Is that a ladbug on that leaf?" "Can you find Daddy?"

You’re chatting away the whole time and playing around too, but you are directing to something where you know you will get a good shot. This allows the child to stop focusing on getting their picture taken and turn their attention to something else instead (meanwhile, you’re pressing the shutter and not missing anything!)

Prompts for natural expressions from children

As children get slightly older, you still want to keep the whole thing FUN, because if there is one thing guaranteed to get boring pictures, it’s to have a boring shoot!

However, you really want to use a prompt that will work on that particular child! Every child is unique, so for example, the more playful prompts aren’t great for a shy child, whereas a more, er, spirited child, will want something even more fun!

Again, here’s just a couple of ideas for photographing kids:

PLAY PRETEND!

Have them pretend to be their favourite character (for example a princess, fairy, dinosaur etc) In some cases you might want to bring in a prop too - a simple pair of glasses, hat or wand can be enough!

(In fact, you can turn this into a whole styled session if you want to!)

FUNNY FACES CONTEST

Ask them to make a weird face and you have to guess what it is - the key to getting really great expressions is to guess really stupid things to make them laugh!

Yes, you'll get lots of outtakes with weird faces but some genuine smiles and laughs too. (But you’re in charge here, so you should be able to decipher when the genuine smile is coming!)

Fun and Playful Prompts for Siblings & Families

Siblings and families can sometimes be tricky to photograph, because it can be hard to get both kids smiling at the same time, and have the adults be happy too!

HAVE SIBLINGS PUT HEADS TOGETHER

My go to pose for siblings is to have them lie on their tummies with their heads together.

Depending on the age of the child you’ll need to add something else into this to get those natural expressions - for younger kids, for example, you could play a game of Simon says, but you can always ask for something impossible to make them laugh!

For older kids, I might deviate a bit from this and direct them to have a staring contest with one another and be ready to catch the part when they start laughing!

CUDDLY FAMILY

For families, I might start by asking the parents to embrace each other, in the spot where I want the photo to be taken.

Then, I’ll ask the kids to to run and give their parents a huge hug - ideally one going to each parent and hug them from the side rather than the front. A little alternative to this (if the kids have a lot of energy they need to run off!) have the kids run around the parents first, then tell them to hug the parents when you yell “HUG!” , which turns it into a game too!

Want even more child and family photo prompts?

If you loved these prompt ideas and want even more, grab our $9 (yes, seriously, $9!) Playful Prompts Playbook which has 99 quickfire creative prompt for capturing everything from babies to teens, plus families and siblings, in a way that feels fun, joyful, and relaxed. (And most importantly, gets you the gorgeously unforced expressions you need!)

]]>5 Easy Prompt Ideas for Natural and Authentic Child PhotosWhy Your Photos Are Always Too Dark (And How to Fix It)PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSAudrey AnnTue, 12 May 2026 10:00:09 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/why-your-photos-are-too-dark5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:69fad50545ff6c3ac6aa31dcDo your photos keep coming out too dark?

Are you playing around with the settings, but your photos never quite seem to look like the light, bright, perfectly exposed image you hoped for?!

Does there seem to be plenty of light, but then you snap your picture and it’s too dark?!! 😱

Then this my friend, is the blog post for you!

Today, we’re going to at four things:

  • The main culprit for images that are too dark

  • What can go wrong with shooting in AUTO or the semi automatic modes

  • How to brighten an image that is too dark when using AUTO or a semi automatic mode

  • How to adjust your image brightness when shooting in manual mode!

Ready? Let’s dive in:

The Reason Your Photos Might Be Too Dark

When we talk about images being too dark or too bright, we are really talking about the image exposure.

Exposure simply means how long the camera sensor is “exposed” to the light. So if your photo is:

  • Too dark (underexposed) → there is not enough light is hitting your camera sensor

  • Too bright (overexposed) → there is too much light is hitting your sensor

Your exposure is controlled by just three ickle (but massively important!) settings:

  • Aperture

  • Shutter Speed

  • ISO

Now, getting the right exposure is basically the skill of balancing those three elements to make sure that you get the photo to look the way you want it to, AND, at the same time, making sure that the scene is correctly exposed - in other words, not too dark or too bright. (Instead it’s juuuuuust right)

This can be tricky when you are new to photography, because you probably don’t know which settings to use to get the look you want, so you either rely on the camera to do it for you (or use a cheat sheet which gives a similar result!) then on top of all that you have the stress of balancing the exposure too!

This double whammy is why many new photographers will either stick to using AUTO, or one of the semi automatic modes like aperture or shutter priority, so that the balance of exposure is up to the camera, leaving them at least one less thing to worry about.

Which - rather unfortunately - often results in images that are too dark or too bright.

(If you are shooting in manual mode, it’s slightly different - but we’ll get to that in a minute!)

The problem with AUTO or the semi automatic modes:

When shooting in AUTO, the camera decides on the Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO settings for you, and it tries to balance the exposure as best it can.

The problem with shooting in AUTO is two-fold - first of all, your camera has absolutely NO frickin’ idea what you want the scene to look like, so it goes for middle of the road settings to try to cover as many eventualities as possible, crosses it’s fingers, and hopes for the best.

And as I’ve said again and again, what does middle of the road settings give you?! Middle of the road photos!

So that’s one reason to avoid AUTO mode…but it’s not the only one.

The second reason you want to avoid it is because it doesn’t know what’s important in the frame, it will always try to “even out” the exposure, often making the image darker overall than it needs to be! (sometimes brighter, but most times, darker)

But what about if you are shooting on one of the semi automatic modes? Surely that must be better!

Yes….and no 😊

If you are shooting on one of the semi-automatic modes rather than AUTO, the reason your photo looks too dark or bright is really the same - you’ve left it up to the camera to decide on the correct exposure.

Sure, you are giving the camera MORE information by telling it what aperture or shutter speed to use, but whenever you leave that final balance of exposure up to the camera it will frequently get it wrong, giving you images that are too bright or too dark.

The solution? Use Exposure Compensation!

So, as we know, when shooting in AUTO - or one of the semi automatic modes - the camera is deciding the exposure.

If it’s wrong - in other words our image is too dark or too bright - we simply need to tell the camera it’s messed up, overrule it, and make the image darker or brighter ourselves. (The old “If you want something done right, do it yourself” adage)

To do this, we use something called Exposure Compensation.

With exposure compensation, we are basically telling our camera to either add exposure (make it brighter) or take it away (make it darker) 

The camera is still balancing out the three elements of exposure for you, but it does so to where YOU set it to, instead of where it thinks it’s the right exposure.

When you look at the screen on the back of your camera or through the viewfinder, you will see an meter that looks something like this:

For those of you that don't know, the numbers indicate the exposure in stops, and the little bar shows where you are currently exposing to.  

When you use AUTO or a semi automatic mode like Aperture Priority Mode, the camera tries to get the little bar into the middle (at 0) for what it thinks is a "balanced" exposure.

However, the majority of the time we probably don't want our little bar to be in the middle,  we want to over or under expose from what our meter is telling us so that our subject is correctly exposed. 

This is when we would use exposure compensation!

So here’s how we fix it:

If Your Photos Are Too Dark (Underexposed)

If your image is UNDEREXPOSED - in other words it’s too dark - you can set your camera to add MORE exposure.

You do this by selecting exposure compensation, and using the dial on your camera to move the little bar over to the + side.

How much depends on how dark your image is - in some cases, just moving the little line to between 0 and 1 is enough! For others, you might need to be at +2 - it all depends on the image and the light.

If Your Photos Are Too Bright (Overexposed)

Then you are going to do the opposite - you are going to want that little bar to get into the - side.

So again, you’ll select exposure compensation and move the dial so that the ticker moves into the - side.

Again, the actual number will vary, so until you start shooting in manual mode and metering yourself, you’ll have to do a bit of guesswork.

So using Exposure Compensation is pretty simple, but naturally, there’s a downside 😉

The camera is going to decide which settings to change in order to let more or less light into the camera, and it might not be what you want it to do!

Also, whenever you move, or your subject moves, the camera will keep metering, and therefore keep changing the exposure (even though the light itself hasn’t changed)

Which is why I strongly recommend doing two things:

1) Truly learn each camera setting and what it does, and how to quickly choose the right one for the scene. (This is something we cover in depth in our Exposure Essentials course. Just sayin’!)

2) Learn how to shoot in manual mode so that you can choose the right exposure yourself! This is the final goal of Exposure Essentials course- getting you to choose all three settings yourself.

What if I already shoot in manual mode?

If you are shooting in manual mode, then the final balance of exposure is up to you, not the camera! (Can’t blame the tools for this one!)

This means you need to adjust your camera settings to let in more or less light.

If your image is too dark (in other words underexposed) try:

  • Opening up your aperture (lower F number)

  • Slowing down your shutter speed

  • Using a higher ISO number.

If your image is too bright (in other words overexposed) do the opposite!

  • Close up your aperture (higher F number)

  • Use a faster shutter speed,

  • Use a lower ISO number.

‍You can adjust just one, or a combination of these three settings based on what you want the scene to look like and the light on the scene.

(Want to get better at getting the right exposure in Manual Mode? Check out Manual Mode Magic!)

Final Thoughts

If your photos are too dark or too bright, it’s really just due to you not understanding your camera settings, and more importantly, not taking enough control!

Because regardless of how expensive that camera is, and how many promises it made on the box, it is nothing more than a bunch of wires and sensors that cannot see or react to a scene in the way that YOU can.

Which means if you want to get your images to look more polished, more professional - and more importantly, match what you see in your head - you need to tell the camera what to do!

In fact, the MORE information you can give your camera, the better the final results will be.

If you’re tired of second-guessing every thing, do make sure to check out Exposure Essentials. In just a couple of hours you’ll have all the information you need to take control of your camera settings, get more creative images immediately, and start to make your images look the way you want them to!

Other posts you may want to check out:

How to Shoot in Manual Mode

How to Choose Your Settings in Manual Mode

Free Manual Mode Cheat Sheet

]]>Why Your Photos Are Always Too Dark (And How to Fix It)10 Actually-Doable Things You Can Try This Weekend to Improve Your Photography!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 19 Aug 2025 17:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/10-weekend-friendly-ways-to-improve-your-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:68a43663b031c063a9cbac4b

No matter how long you’ve been behind the lens or where you are in your photography journey, there’s always room to tweak, play, and grow!

Which is why in this week’s episode, I’m sharing 10 simple, weekend-friendly, totally doable things you can try to boost your photography skills (and yes, your photos too!)… without spending a dime, blocking off six weeks, or binge-watching a three-hour tutorial that makes your brain hurt 😀

Now I know that we are all at different stages in our photography journey, so there is something for everyone here - just skip the ones that don't apply,  or take the simple or more ambitious versions of my suggestions!  

WATCH THE VIDEO NOW!

OR LISTEN TO THIS EPISODE ON THE LIVE SNAP LOVE PODCAST!

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INSIDE I’M SHARING

1️⃣ The #1 thing you can do that costs $0 but seriously shifts your photos

2️⃣ A few camera setting tweaks that make a big difference if you are a beginner and newer to photography

3️⃣ My go-to trick for getting out of an editing funk and trying something new

4️⃣ Ideas to help you feel more creative and shoot with fresh eyes

5️⃣ Fun little weekend challenges to keep things fresh and fun

6️⃣ How to have fun with your existing equipment (no new gear required!) 

 RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS EPISODE:

📸 BEGINNERS BOOTCAMP The 5 Day Beginners Bootcamp

📝FREE CHEAT SHEET! FREE Aperture Priority Mode Cheat Sheet

MORE FROM ME

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]]>10 Actually-Doable Things You Can Try This Weekend to Improve Your Photography!How To Critique Your Own Photos: A Step By Step GuidePODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSAudrey AnnTue, 05 Aug 2025 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-to-critique-own-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:688b8f588cc57f785103bbb1   LISTEN ON APPLE LISTEN ON SPOTIFY  

In this episode of The Live Snap Love Show, I’m going to give you a step by step guide to critiquing your own photos, so you can start to look at your own images objectively, see what you did right, and what you could do next time to improve your photos!

Being able to critique an image effectively is a great skill to develop, because it will help you take better photos next time you’re shooting, can help you see where you have grown and what you are getting right, but also help you see which areas you need to work on next in your photography journey.

In today’s episode, I’m going to break down the 4 aspects of an image that you should critique, and I’m going to give you questions to ask yourself for each of these aspects, so that by the end, you’ll feel confident critiquing your own - or anyone else’s photos. 

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL TAKEAWAY FROM THIS EPISODE:

1️⃣ Why you should critique your photos, and what you should always make sure you do

2️⃣ The 4 main aspects of an image that you should critique

3️⃣ The 3 technical elements that form the foundation of your image

4️⃣ What to look for when assessing the light in your image

5️⃣ Tips for how to see any problems with your editing

6️⃣ How to use what you have learned during your critique to actually make a difference to your photos!

WHEN YOU’RE READY, HERE’S HOW I CAN HELP YOU!

Check out the courses We have a range of courses and workshops that can help you at every stage of your photography journey!

Grab a freebie! Get started with one of our highly actionable free guides or resources.

MORE FROM ME

Follow me on Instagram: @livesnaplove

For more behind-the-scenes content, practical photography tips, and thoughtful inspiration I only share by email, make sure you’re subscribed to Photography Love Letters—my weekly newsletter for curious, creative photographers. 💌 Click here to subscribe!

SUBSCRIBE & REVIEW

Thanks for tuning into The Live Snap Love show! If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to subscribe to get notified when new episodes drop.

Also please take a moment to leave a review on Apple Podcasts - your support helps us reach more photographers and grow our community!

See you next time!

SUBSCRIBE TO THE PODCAST!

Apple / Spotify / YouTube / Amazon Music / Audible

]]>How To Critique Your Own Photos: A Step By Step GuideStuck in a creative slump? 3 Ways to Inspire Yourself Today!PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSAudrey AnnTue, 29 Jul 2025 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/3-ways-to-find-inspiration5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6887933594c39b3e601b6f63   LISTEN ON APPLE LISTEN ON SPOTIFY  

So many of us feel like we are in a creative slump from time to time, where we don’t know what to photograph, or we just feel like everything is boring and we’re taking the same photograph over and over and over again.

If you are feeling like that - welcome to the club! I haven’t met a single human being who hasn’t felt frustrated and uncreative from time to time - and remember, I’ve worked with thousands of students in my program so I know you are definitely not alone. 

This can happen whether you are new to photography or, like myself, been shooting for years!

So in this episode, I’d thought I’d share the three tools I have literally just used to get myself out of a creative slump! There are of course many more but these just happen to the ones I’m loving right now. 

My hope is that you can dive into this episode and get some ideas for how to motivate yourself again, start picking up your camera, and if I have really done my job well,  reignite your passion for photography!

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL TAKEAWAY FROM THIS EPISODE:

1️⃣ The #1 thing I’ve been focused on this month (and how surprised I was and how much this lit a spark within me!) 

2️⃣ How shooting somewhere new helps you see the world with fresh eyes. 

3️⃣ The prompt list I’m currently working through (and an alternate one you can do at any time!) 

4️⃣ My go-to exercise for when I don’t know what to photograph!

5️⃣ A creative exercise you can do today that can help kickstart your creativity

 RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS EPISODE:

🛍️ The Location Scouting Playbook: livesnaplove.com/location

📝 Free Photography Projects Guide: livesnaplove.com/projects

SUBSCRIBE & REVIEW

Thanks for tuning into The Live Snap Love show! If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to subscribe to get notified when new episodes drop.

Also please take a moment to leave a review on Apple Podcasts - your support helps us reach more photographers and grow our community!

See you next time!

SUBSCRIBE TO THE PODCAST!

Apple / Spotify / YouTube / Amazon Music / Audible

]]>Stuck in a creative slump? 3 Ways to Inspire Yourself Today!Lensbaby SOL45 Tutorial: How to Create Dreamy Creative Photos!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 08 Jul 2025 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/lensbaby-sol45-tutorial5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6868072358e7427e934c152c   LISTEN ON APPLE LISTEN ON SPOTIFY  

In this episode of The Live Snap Love Show, we’re getting a little creative with one of the most playful and accessible lenses out there: the Lensbaby SOL45.

If you’ve ever scrolled past those dreamy, swirly, tilt-y shots and thought, “How on earth did they do that?” — this episode is for you! 

We’re breaking down exactly what the SOL45 is, who it’s for (hint: anyone craving a little creative magic), and what makes it so different from your everyday lenses. Plus, you’ll get a step-by-step tutorial so you can actually use it without wanting to chuck it across the yard, and some example photos too. 

By the end of this episode, you’ll know how to create those beautifully selective focus shots that make people stop scrolling and go, “Wait… did you take that?!

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL TAKEAWAY FROM THIS EPISODE:

1️⃣ What the Lensbaby SOL45 is (and why it’s basically the artsy kid in your lens lineup)

2️⃣  The types of shots you can create — from sweet, swirly backgrounds to intentionally offbeat, tilt-y portraits=

3️⃣ The features you need to know to get the most out of it

4️⃣ A step-by-step how-to for using it — so you can avoid that classic “why is everything blurry??” meltdown

5️⃣ Audrey’s personal tips and recommended types of shots to try first (yes, I’m basically handing you a creative cheat sheet)

WHEN YOU’RE READY, HERE’S HOW I CAN HELP YOU!

Check out the coursesWe have a range of courses and workshops that can help you at every stage of your photography journey!

Grab a freebie! Get started with one of our highly actionable free guides or resources.

MORE FROM ME

Follow me on Instagram: @livesnaplove

For more behind-the-scenes content, practical photography tips, and thoughtful inspiration I only share by email, make sure you’re subscribed to Photography Love Letters—my weekly newsletter for curious, creative photographers. 💌 Click here to subscribe!

SUBSCRIBE & REVIEW

Thanks for tuning into The Live Snap Love show! If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to subscribe to get notified when new episodes drop.

Also please take a moment to leave a review on Apple Podcasts - your support helps us reach more photographers and grow our community!

See you next time!

SUBSCRIBE TO THE PODCAST!

Apple / Spotify / YouTube / Amazon Music / Audible

]]>Lensbaby SOL45 Tutorial: How to Create Dreamy Creative Photos!35mm vs 50mm for Child, Family & Lifestyle PhotographyPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 01 Jul 2025 16:20:15 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/35mm-vs-50mm-for-family-and-lifestyle-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:68640abf9a269d3c0d019cdf   LISTEN ON APPLE LISTEN ON SPOTIFY  

In this episode of The Live Snap Love Show, we’re diving into one of the most common “what lens should I get?” debates: the 35mm vs 50mm. 

It’s the photography version of coffee vs tea—both fabulous, both serve a purpose, but which one fits you best?

If you’ve ever found yourself Googling focal lengths at midnight (been there), or toggling between the two lenses in your online cart like it’s a game of ping pong, this is the episode for you.

We’re covering everything you need to confidently decide which lens is your lens soulmate — including pros, cons, photo examples, and one very nerdy-but-helpful rule of thumb you’ll actually want to use.

By the end of this episode, you’ll be lens-decision ready—with zero regrets and maybe even a little giddy with excitement :-)

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL TAKEAWAY FROM THIS EPISODE:

1️⃣ What “35mm” and “50mm” actually mean — and how they act differently on crop vs full frame cameras

2️⃣ The major pros (and the “meh” moments) of both lenses

3️⃣ When you’d reach for the 35mm… and when you’d regret it

4️⃣ Why the 50mm might be your all-rounder MVP — or just a little too middle-of-the-road

5️⃣ Audrey’s personal take (and go-to lens combo for lifestyle family sessions)

6️⃣ A genius hack using your kit lens to test which focal length fits your style best

 RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS EPISODE:

📝 FREE Which Lens Kickstarter Guide: livesnaplove.com/lenses

🎥 Related Video “What Do the Numbers on a Camera Lens Mean?” 

MORE FROM ME

Follow me on Instagram: @livesnaplove

For more behind-the-scenes content, practical photography tips, and thoughtful inspiration I only share by email, make sure you’re subscribed to Photography Love Letters—my weekly newsletter for curious, creative photographers. 💌 Click here to subscribe!

WHEN YOU’RE READY, HERE’S HOW I CAN HELP YOU!

Check out the courses We have a range of courses and workshops that can help you at every stage of your photography journey!

Grab a freebie! Get started with one of our highly actionable free guides or resources.

SUBSCRIBE & REVIEW

Thanks for tuning into The Live Snap Love show! If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to subscribe to get notified when new episodes drop.

Also please take a moment to leave a review on Apple Podcasts - your support helps us reach more photographers and grow our community!

See you next time!

SUBSCRIBE TO THE PODCAST!

Apple / Spotify / YouTube / Amazon Music / Audible

]]>35mm vs 50mm for Child, Family & Lifestyle Photography3 Must Use Lightroom Classic Tools for "People" PhotographersPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY BUSINESS TIPSEDITING TUTORIALSAudrey AnnTue, 24 Jun 2025 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/must-use-lightroom-classic-tools-for-people-photographers5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6855622221520455273d6db0   LISTEN ON APPLE LISTEN ON SPOTIFY  

In this episode I’m sharing with you three Lightroom tools that don’t get nearly enough love (or at least not the way we normally use them!).

Whether you are new to Lightroom Classic, or like me, you’ve been using it for over a decade (!) I think there are always new ways to use the tools to perfect and polish your photos. 

Inside, I’m sharing the sneaky-smart ways I use a few underrated tools to make people's portraits pop — without spending hours on them. 

So if you’re ready to edit with more purpose (and way less confusion), tune in!

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL TAKEAWAY FROM THIS EPISODE:

1️⃣ How to use the White Balance Dropper tool for three different pro-level tweaks (yep, it’s not just for finding a gray card!)

2️⃣ My no-guesswork method for setting the perfect exposure (and avoiding that “did I overdo it?” spiral)

3️⃣ Why the RGB numbers are your new best friends when it comes to skin tones

4️⃣ The tool I use to add pop, depth, and intentional color toning

5️⃣ My go-to tool for creating the perfect vignette and darkening backgrounds like a boss

 RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS EPISODE:

The Edit Like A Pro in LRC Course: livesnaplove.com/pro-edit

WHEN YOU’RE READY, HERE’S HOW I CAN HELP YOU!

The Beginners Bootcamp: your go-to workshop for creating photos you love quickly. Taken by over 3,000 photographers, this step by step workshop skips the usual fluff and filler, and instead gives you step-by-step, real world techniques that will help you capture sharper, more creative photos - and in less than a week!

Check out the coursesWe have a range of courses and workshops that can help you at every stage of your photography journey!

Grab a freebie! Get started with one of our highly actionable free guides or resources.

MORE FROM ME

Follow me on Instagram: @livesnaplove

For more behind-the-scenes content, practical photography tips, and thoughtful inspiration I only share by email, make sure you’re subscribed to Photography Love Letters—my weekly newsletter for curious, creative photographers. 💌 Click here to subscribe!

SUBSCRIBE & REVIEW

Thanks for tuning into The Live Snap Love show! If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to subscribe to get notified when new episodes drop.

Also please take a moment to leave a review on Apple Podcasts - your support helps us reach more photographers and grow our community!

See you next time!

SUBSCRIBE TO THE PODCAST!

Apple / Spotify / YouTube / Amazon Music / Audible

]]>3 Must Use Lightroom Classic Tools for "People" PhotographersWhere Your First Clients Actually Come From (Hint: It's not Instagram!)PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY BUSINESS TIPSAudrey AnnTue, 17 Jun 2025 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/first-paying-client5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:684ee57c5031197e75ac3a52   LISTEN ON APPLE LISTEN ON SPOTIFY  

Let’s be real — turning your photography passion into a business sounds like a dream job… until you realize you have no idea how to land your first paying client!

If you’ve been tiptoeing around the idea of going pro — or stuck in the “shoot-for-free-forever” loop — this episode is your new favorite pep talk meets game plan.

I’m walking you through the exact steps to go from “maybe someday” to “holy crap, I just got paid for this!” — without needing a logo, a fancy workflow, or your entire business figured out.

So let’s get your first client booked, shall we?

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL TAKEAWAY FROM THIS EPISODE:

1️⃣ The mindset shift that will move you from “maybe later” to “I’m doing this now”

2️⃣ What you need to have in place to get your first paying clients (less than you think!) 

3️⃣ The basic-but-crucial steps of a smooth client experience — from booking to delivery

4️⃣  How to get your inner circle to help spread the word (without sounding salesy or desperate)

5️⃣  Exactly what to say when asking for referrals and testimonials (so you don’t feel weird about it)

6️⃣ A checklist to help you get visible, start simple, and build a business that fits your life

 RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS EPISODE:

The Photography Biz Start Up Kit: livesnaplove.com/business

The Location Scouting Playbook: livesnaplove.com/location

SmugMug: (should give you 20% discount) : SmugMug

DropBox: dropbox.com

WHEN YOU’RE READY, HERE’S HOW I CAN HELP YOU!

Check out the coursesWe have a range of courses and workshops that can help you at every stage of your photography journey!

Grab a freebie! Get started with one of our highly actionable free guides or resources.

MORE FROM ME

Follow me on Instagram: @livesnaplove

For more behind-the-scenes content, practical photography tips, and thoughtful inspiration I only share by email, make sure you’re subscribed to Photography Love Letters—my weekly newsletter for curious, creative photographers. 💌 Click here to subscribe!

SUBSCRIBE & REVIEW

Thanks for tuning into The Live Snap Love show! If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to subscribe to get notified when new episodes drop.

Also please take a moment to leave a review on Apple Podcasts - your support helps us reach more photographers and grow our community!

See you next time!

SUBSCRIBE TO THE PODCAST!

Apple / Spotify / YouTube / Amazon Music / Audible

]]>Where Your First Clients Actually Come From (Hint: It's not Instagram!)If only I could tell my younger self... 6 pieces of photography advicePHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 10 Jun 2025 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/6-pieces-of-photography-advice5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6846fbcf654ef12e903fb27b   LISTEN ON APPLE LISTEN ON SPOTIFY  

Let’s be honest — photography can feel like a lot sometimes.

There’s SO much to learn, a hundred paths to follow, and alllll the noise about what you “should” be doing… it’s no wonder we end up overwhelmed and second-guessing everything from our editing to our lens choices!

In today’s episode, I’m getting a little reflective and sharing the 6 lessons I wish I could go back and tell my younger photography self — before the rabbit holes, the gear splurges, and the late-night Googling spirals. 🙃

Whether you're feeling a bit stuck or just need a reminder that you're so not alone, this one’s for you.

Tune in for the advice I wish I’d heard sooner — and that I hope helps you move forward with a little more clarity (and a lot more confidence).

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL TAKEAWAY FROM THIS EPISODE:

1️⃣ Why learning photography out of order might be secretly sabotaging your progress

2️⃣ The surprisingly big problem with staying “comfortable” behind the camera

3️⃣ How to draw inspiration from others without losing your own creative voice

4️⃣ The truth about free content vs. investing in a solid learning path

5️⃣ What to ask yourself before you hit “add to cart” on that new lens or gadget

6️⃣ How chasing tips and tricks can actually slow your growth (yup, really!)

7️⃣ A gentle reminder that your photos don’t need to be perfect to be powerful

So if you’re ready for a little tough love (with lots of warmth and virtual high-fives), pop in your earbuds and let’s chat. 💛

 RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS EPISODE:

My recommended editing software: The Photography Plan From Adobe

WHEN YOU’RE READY, HERE’S HOW I CAN HELP YOU!

The Beginners Bootcamp: your go-to workshop for creating photos you love quickly. Taken by over 3,000 photographers, this step by step workshop skips the usual fluff and filler, and instead gives you step-by-step, real world techniques that will help you capture sharper, more creative photos - and in less than a week!

Check out the courses We have a range of courses and workshops that can help you at every stage of your photography journey!

Grab a freebie! Get started with one of our highly actionable free guides or resources.

MORE FROM ME

Follow me on Instagram: @livesnaplove

For more behind-the-scenes content, practical photography tips, and thoughtful inspiration I only share by email, make sure you’re subscribed to Photography Love Letters—my weekly newsletter for curious, creative photographers. 💌 Click here to subscribe!

SUBSCRIBE & REVIEW

Thanks for tuning into The Live Snap Love show! If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to subscribe to get notified when new episodes drop.

Also please take a moment to leave a review on Apple Podcasts - your support helps us reach more photographers and grow our community!

See you next time!

SUBSCRIBE TO THE PODCAST!

Apple / Spotify / YouTube / Amazon Music / Audible

]]>If only I could tell my younger self... 6 pieces of photography advice4 Ways To Creative Impactful Photos In Boring LightPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 03 Jun 2025 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/create-impactful-photos-in-boring-light5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6837443d709e23157987214f   LISTEN ON APPLE LISTEN ON SPOTIFY  

Let’s be honest — we all love shooting in dreamy, golden hour light. (Probably because that magical glow does half the heavy lifting for us!)

But what about those days when the light is just… well, blah?

In today’s podcast, I’m walking you through four creative techniques you can lean on when the light just isn’t working in your favor — so you can still create meaningful, eye-catching images, even when the light kind of sucks!

Remember, we won’t always get to choose what we have to work with, and it’s not about only creating images when the conditions are perfect! 


It’s about being intentional with how you work with the tools you do have — in other words, knowing how to make the most of what you’ve got!

Tune in to hear the four go-to strategies I use when the light just isn’t playing nice — and why they might become your favorites too!

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL TAKEAWAY FROM THIS EPISODE:

1️⃣ How to use composition as your creative anchor when the light isn’t pulling its weight

2️⃣ The one thing that can save an image (or make an otherwise perfect shot not make a mark) 

3️⃣ How to bring visual interest to an otherwise flat photo

4️⃣ Tips for shooting that will help give you options back in the editing suite!

5️⃣ Why movement is your best friend when you need to breathe energy into a boring scene

6️⃣The mindset shift that will help you shoot confidently in any lighting situation

 WHEN YOU’RE READY, HERE’S HOW I CAN HELP YOU!

Check out the coursesWe have a range of courses and workshops that can help you at every stage of your photography journey!

Grab a freebie! Get started with one of our highly actionable free guides or resources.

MORE FROM ME

Follow me on Instagram: @livesnaplove

For more behind-the-scenes content, practical photography tips, and thoughtful inspiration I only share by email, make sure you’re subscribed to Photography Love Letters—my weekly newsletter for curious, creative photographers. 💌 Click here to subscribe!

SUBSCRIBE TO THE PODCAST!

Apple / Spotify / YouTube / Amazon Music / Audible

]]>4 Ways To Creative Impactful Photos In Boring LightA Peek Inside My Lens Collection!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 15 Apr 2025 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog//inside-camera-bag-2025-part-two5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67f84b2c9826fb398a9a120a

Ever wondered which lens you actually need for the kind of photography you love? In this episode of Photography Made Simple, I’m breaking down all the lenses in my collection—why I use them, which ones I love, and which ones I really need to sell! 🤦‍♀️

I’ll also help you figure out which lens might be the best fit for you—whether you love portraits, landscapes, macro, or everyday moments. Because choosing the right lens isn’t just about price—it’s about finding the one that truly works for the way you shoot!

In this episode, we discuss:

📸 The lenses I use for different types of photography—some I can’t live without, and others I barely touch!

🔍 The one lens that gives stunning compression for portraits (but I might need to sell it!).

💐 The macro lens that isn’t just for close-ups—it also makes portraits incredibly sharp.

🏞️ The wide-angle lens that’s perfect for capturing the full scene—but do I really need it?

🤔 Why two of my lenses give a very similar look—and why one of them has to go!

🎯 The simple questions you should ask yourself before investing in a new lens.

Want to finally understand lenses? My super affordable $9 mini course answers all the biggest lens-related questions—so you can choose the right one without the confusion! Click here to learn more about it. 

🎧 Listen now and get ready to make more confident lens choices! 😊

Want more? Check these out!

A 10 Minute Aperture Exercise

Aperture Examples: How to Use Aperture in Photography For Different Looks

The 5 Day Beginners Bootcamp

How to Choose Your Settings in Manual Mode

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

YouTube

Amazon Music / Audible

]]>A Peek Inside My Lens Collection!From Cameras to Accessories: A Peek Inside My Photography KitPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 25 Mar 2025 11:03:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/inside-my-camera-bag-2025-part-one5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67c50c9b2feea23cefd1cbc3

Ever wondered what’s inside a photographer’s camera bag? In this episode, I’m giving you a full behind-the-scenes look at the cameras and accessories I have, why I love them, and how they might help you in your own photography journey!

From my very first DSLR to my latest mirrorless upgrade, I’ll share what each camera offers and why I still keep them around. 

Plus, we’ll chat about must-have accessories—some I use all the time, and some I intended to use but, well… let’s just say, good intentions don’t always pan out!

This is also our last episode before a short two-week Easter break, so be sure to tune in and get your photography fix before we return with our all about lenses episode!

In this episode we discuss: 

📸 The cameras I’ve used over the years—from my first DSLR to my go-to mirrorless model.

🎒 What’s inside my camera bag, including my favorite accessories and why they’re game-changers.

💡 How a simple ExpoDisc can make setting white balance easier than ever.

⚡ The Speedlight I rely on for tricky lighting situations—and why you might need one, too!

🌞 The one tool we ask all our Mastering Natural Light students to have (hint: it’s not a camera!).

👜 The camera bags I use (yes, there’s more than one!) and what each is best for.

🕶️ Why a neutral density filter is like “sunglasses for your camera” and when to use it.

😂 And the one tool I thought I’d use all the time… but almost never do.

🎙️ Listen now and get inspired to fine-tune your own photography setup!

Links & Resources:

Speedlights Simplified Course – Get confident with flash photography.

Fujifilm X100V Episode – Why I added this camera to my kit.

Canon 5D Mk 3(Old version, this has been superseded by theCanon 5D Mk4)

FujiFilm X100V

Canon R6 MK II

Canon Rebel T7

Expodisc White Balance Tool

Lexar 32GB CF Card

Reflector 43” (for general portrait photography)

Canon Speedlite 430EX II Flash

Neewer Speedlite for Canon

Lenspen

ND8 ND FILTER

WHEN YOU’RE READY, HERE’S HOW I CAN HELP YOU!

Check out the coursesWe have a range of courses and workshops that can help you at every stage of your photography journey!

Grab a freebie! Get started with one of our highly actionable free guides or resources.

MORE FROM ME

Follow me on Instagram: @livesnaplove

For more behind-the-scenes content, practical photography tips, and thoughtful inspiration I only share by email, make sure you’re subscribed to Photography Love Letters—my weekly newsletter for curious, creative photographers. 💌 Click here to subscribe!

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

YouTube

Amazon Music / Audible

]]>From Cameras to Accessories: A Peek Inside My Photography KitNew to Photography? Your Most Common Questions—Answered!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 18 Mar 2025 10:02:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/beginner-photography-questions-answered5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67c507a863e7e52a241c9c31

If you’ve ever picked up your camera, snapped a photo, and thought, Wait… why doesn’t this look how I imagined?—this episode is for you!

In today’s episode of Photography Made Simple, I’m answering some of the most common questions that beginner photographers have, from blurry photos to confusing camera settings to whether or not you really need to edit your shots.

We’ll break it all down in a simple, easy-to-understand way so you can start taking better photos today!

In this episode we discuss: 

  • Why your photos don’t look like what you envisioned—and how to fix that!

  • Why AUTO mode gives you “meh” results and what to use instead.

  • The key to getting sharper, more in-focus images (no more blurry disasters!).

  • Whether you really need fancy camera gear—or if your current setup is good enough.

  • Do you need to edit your photos? (Hint: Even pros don’t skip this step!)

  • The fastest way to improve your photography without feeling overwhelmed.

If you’re just getting started with photography and want to take better, more creative shots without feeling totally lost, this episode is packed with practical, beginner-friendly tips that you can start using right away!

Want to take your photos to the next level? My Beginners Bootcamp is the perfect place to start! This self-paced workshop will help you move beyond AUTO mode and start snapping sharper, more creative photos in just five days. Sign up here: https://livesnaplove.com/bootcamp

📩 Loved this episode? Make sure to subscribe so you never miss a new one! And if you found this helpful, leave a review—it helps more people find the show!

Want more? Check these out!

A 10 Minute Aperture Exercise

How To Find Your Unique Photography Voice & Style

The 5 Day Beginners Bootcamp

All New Photographers Should Know These 11 Things

The Photography Learning Path To Take You From Beginner To Pro

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]]>New to Photography? Your Most Common Questions—Answered!Stuck in a Creative Rut? Try This Simple Photo Challenge!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTCHILD & LIFESTYLEPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSAudrey AnnTue, 11 Mar 2025 09:58:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/creative-challenge-10-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67bfe0b47bcdc900452f2cac

Feeling stuck in a creative rut? Your camera collecting dust? I hear you! In this episode, we’re diving into a simple but powerful photography challenge that will help you break through the creative block and start seeing the world with fresh eyes.

I’m sharing a tried-and-true artist’s exercise that will help you look at light, composition, and everyday objects in new and exciting ways. 

Finally, don’t forget to grab your freebie packed with even more creative photo challenge. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why creative blocks happen (and how to bust through them!)

  • The simple but powerful photo exercise that will reignite your creativity

  • How to take 5 to 10 completely different photos of one subject

  • Why light and composition are key to unlocking new ideas

Whether you're a beginner looking for an easy way to practice or an experienced photographer needing a creative spark, this episode is for you!

Hit play now and let’s get those creative juices flowing shall we?!

Want more? Check these out!

5 Year Long Photography Projects That Aren’t A 365

How to Find Your Unique Photography Voice & Style

How to Photograph A Day In Your Life

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]]>Stuck in a Creative Rut? Try This Simple Photo Challenge!7 Ways to Make Your Kids WANT to Be in Front of the CameraPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTCHILD & LIFESTYLEAudrey AnnTue, 04 Mar 2025 11:01:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-to-make-your-kids-want-to-be-in-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67bfdbf084a9c23008aa0e35

Getting your kids to willingly pose for photos can feel like an impossible task—but what if I told you it doesn’t have to be? 

In this episode of Photography Made Simple, I’m sharing seven fun and stress-free ways to make your little ones actually excited about being in front of the camera. 

Say goodbye to forced smiles and eye rolls, and hello to joyful, natural photos filled with genuine personality!

And if you want even more ideas for getting authentic, relaxed, and FUN photos of kids of all ages check out my Playful Prompts Guide. Whether you're a parent documenting everyday moments or a professional photographer looking for fresh inspiration, it has something for you! 

In this episode, we discuss:

  • How to get your kids involved in the creative process so they feel like part of the fun.

  • Turning photo sessions into exciting adventures that spark curiosity and joy.

  • The magic of introducing new toys, crafts, or activities to capture natural moments.

  • Why letting your kids be the photographer can make them more open to being photographed.

  • How to keep things positive, lighthearted, and fun (so they’ll want to do it again!).

  • The importance of taking breaks and being present to make photography feel effortless.

  • A little trick called “positive reinforcement” (aka, rewards!) to encourage cooperation.

If you’re ready to take the stress out of kid photography and start capturing genuine smiles and laughter, press play now! 

And don’t forget to grab your copy of the Playful Prompts Guide for even more creative inspiration.


Want more? Check these out!

Want to Take Your Own Family Photos? Here’s How!

Best Settings for Family Photography

How to Make Family Photo Sessions FUN! 

Best lens for child & family photography (my three faves!)

Toddler Photography Tips

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]]>7 Ways to Make Your Kids WANT to Be in Front of the CameraMastering Macro Flower Photography Like a ProPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 25 Feb 2025 10:58:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/macro-flower-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67b871cb21d6b24e2175959c

Ever wondered how to capture stunning close-up shots of flowers that make people say, “WOW, did you really take that?!” If you’ve dabbled in macro photography but felt more frustrated than fascinated, this episode is for you 😀

In this episode, I’m sharing the essential tips and tricks to help you take jaw-dropping macro flower photos—without the struggle! 

Whether you’re just starting out or looking to fine-tune your skills, I’ve got you covered with practical, easy-to-implement advice that will transform the way you photograph flowers up close.

In this episode, we discuss:

  • Why autofocus is your worst enemy for macro flower photography—and what to do instead

  • Tips for choosing the best aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings for crisp, stunning floral images

  • How to harness natural light to bring out the delicate details in your shots

  • The secret to choosing the perfect background to make your flowers pop

  • The power of perspective—how to shoot one flower five different ways for creative, eye-catching results

If you’re ready to unlock the magic of macro flower photography and start capturing the beauty of nature like never before, this episode is a must-listen!

Plus, if you want to take your macro skills even further, be sure to check out Everyday Macro Magic! This course will walk you through everything from settings to creative techniques, so you can master macro photography with ease.

Listen now and start creating stunning macro flower photos today!

Want more? Check these out!

Everyday Macro Magic

How to Get Started With Macro Photography

How To Use Your Regular Lens For Macro Photography!

Finding Inspiration for Photos Beyond Child Photography

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]]>Mastering Macro Flower Photography Like a ProSteal Like an Artist (But Make It Your Own!)PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 18 Feb 2025 11:01:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/steal-like-an-artist5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67aff0b953ff3e36a764e214

Ever find yourself drooling over a stunning photo and wishing you could create something just like it? You’re not alone! But here’s the thing—copying won’t help you grow as a photographer. Instead, let’s break down how to take inspiration and turn it into something uniquely yours.

In this episode, we’ll cover:

  • Why copying other photographers’ work won’t help you develop your own style (and what to do instead!)

  • The photography detective approach to analyzing and deconstructing an image

  • How to pinpoint the key element that makes an image stand out—whether it’s light, color, composition, or emotion

  • The secret to using inspiration without losing your own creative voice

  • A simple challenge to put this method into action right away!

Plus, you’ll get access to my free Mastering Natural Light Starter Guide—a game-changer for understanding how light shapes every image you create. Grab it here: [insert link].

And if you’re ready to truly master light and use it to create jaw-dropping photos, check out my Mastering Natural Light course! Learn more here: [insert course link].

🎧 Hit play now and start unlocking your creative vision!

Want more? Check these out!

FREE Mastering Natural Light Starter Guide

My Photography Journey: What Worked, What Didn’t & What Actually Moved The Needle

How to find Interesting & Dramatic Light for Your Photos

8 Photography lighting ideas that will supercharge your photos!

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]]>Steal Like an Artist (But Make It Your Own!)Running out of steam on your Project 365? This might help!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSUSING YOUR IMAGESAudrey AnnTue, 11 Feb 2025 11:01:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/tips-for-keeping-up-with-a-project-3655373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67a8e370a75fdc54857ac066

Have you committed to a Project 365 this year, but worried you’ll run out of steam? (Or maybe you have already!) 

I get it! I’ve spent years capturing a photo a day, and while it’s been one of the best things I’ve done for my photography, it’s not always easy to keep up - and yes, I’ve failed on more than one occasion over the last 15 years too! 

So in this episode, I’m sharing my best tips to help you stick with your Project 365 and make it a success.

Here’s what we’ll dive into:

  • Why a Project 365 is one of the best ways to improve your photography skills and document your life

  • How to make sure you always have a camera handy (yes, your phone counts!) 

  • The mindset shift that will stop you from stressing over perfect shots every day 

  • Why missing a day doesn’t mean you’ve failed—and how to get back on track 

  • How themes and creative prompts can reignite your inspiration when boredom strikes

  • The power of sharing your images to stay accountable and motivated 

  • Simple routines that will make taking a daily photo second nature 

  • Why printing your images (or creating a photo book) will keep you motivated to finish the year strong

  • How to reconnect with your why so you stay inspired throughout the year

Whether you’re just starting your first Project 365 or you’ve tried before and struggled to keep up, this episode will help you stay on track and enjoy the process.

Hit play and let’s make this the year you finally complete your Project 365!

Want more? Check these out!

5 Year Long Photography Projects That Aren’t A 365

How to Find Your Unique Photography Voice & Style

How to Photograph A Day In Your Life

The Creative Year

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]]>Running out of steam on your Project 365? This might help!Big Changes to Adobe’s Photography Plan! Here’s What You Need to KnowPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTEDITING TUTORIALSAudrey AnnTue, 04 Feb 2025 15:58:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/adobe-photography-plans-20255373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:67a1831c1273af0e70c502f7

In this episode, we’re diving into the recent changes to Adobe’s Photography Plan!

If you’re already a subscriber, you might be wondering what this means for you. 

And if you’re thinking about getting an Adobe plan but feel totally confused about which one to pick—don’t worry, we’ve got you covered there too!

Today, we’ll break down what’s new, how it impacts existing users, and what options are best for those just starting with Adobe’s photography tools. 

Plus, we’re going to go over the differences between Lightroom,Lightroom Classic and Photoshop, so you can see which plan will be best for you. 

Click here for Adobe’s Photography Plans!

In this episode we discuss: 

  • What’s changed with Adobe’s plans for photographers 

  • What this means for existing subscribers (and how you can beat the price increase)

  • What plans are available going forward. 

  • The key differences between Lightroom and Lightroom Classic - and why having them both together in one plan is SO much better! 

  • Whether you really need Photoshop, or can just stick with Lightroom.

  • How to choose the best Adobe plan based on your workflow and needs.

By the end of this episode, you’ll have a clear understanding of Adobe’s new plan structure and exactly what’s right for you.

Want more? Check these out!

Click here for Adobe’s Photography Plans!

5 Must Know Editing Tips!

4 Reasons You Should Be Editing Your Photos 

Wondering why you need Photoshop? Here’s 5 Reasons. 

How to Edit Photos in Lightroom Classic

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]]>Big Changes to Adobe’s Photography Plan! Here’s What You Need to KnowMy 2025 Photography GoalsPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTCHILD & LIFESTYLEPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSAudrey AnnTue, 21 Jan 2025 15:59:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/2025-photography-goals5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:677c97feaf12891a02356538

In this episode, I’m sharing with you the 4 simple things that I’m going to be focusing on with my photography in 2025. 

I’m sharing what my goals are, and why I’ve decided to focus on these 4 things to help grow my photography skills and (hopefully!) get out of a creative rut.

Of course, I don’t expect you to have the same goals as me, so I’ll also share some ideas of how you can adapt this to different stages of your photography journey, or different types of photography.

In this episode we discuss: 

  • My photography plans for 2025

  • Why I’m focusing on a Project 365 again this year (even though I’ve failed the last three years)

  • Why a Project 365 is good for photographers of all levels 

  • The lens that I bought that I’m going to try to get to grips with in 2025 (and what you can do if you don’t have the funds for a new lens)

  • How printing my photos can help you when it comes to editing your photos, and seeing how to improve

  • And more!

Want more? Check these out!

LISTEN 🎧 5 Year-Long Photography Projects (That Don't Require Daily Shooting!

LISTEN 🎧 My Photography Journey: What Worked, What Didn’t & What Actually Moved The Needle

LISTEN 🎧 Beginners Guide to Lensbaby Lenses

WATCH 💻 3 Quick & Easy Photography Challenges For When You're In a Creative Slump

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]]>My 2025 Photography GoalsHow to Learn Photography in 3 Months (Your Detailed Step By Step Plan)PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 14 Jan 2025 12:20:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-to-learn-photography-in-3-months5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:677c902762394f2727406579

In this episode, I’m going to walk you through a detailed month-by-month plan for learning photography in just three months!

I know that learning photography can sometimes feel a little overwhelming, and many people feel like they are being pulled in 10 different directions in the same time.  And what can often happen is that you end up learning lots of things in photography, but nothing connects together, and you’ve ended up missing out on so much important information!

So in this podcast, my goal is to give you a clear path as to how you can use the next three months to learn the crucial foundational elements of photography, with detailed breakdown of exactly what to focus on each month!

In this episode we discuss: 

  • How you can learn photography in just three months or under

  • Detailed step by step breakdown of what to focus on each month

  • The solid foundation you need to have in place before you can move onto learning about anything else

  • Why we start shooting indoors rather than outdoors

  • Why practice with knowledge (rather than just practice) is so important 

  • The order of operations for learning photography, and why it’s so important to get the order right

  • The shortcut that allows you to get all this done in far less time and with less frustration!

Want more? Check these out!

FREE DOWNLOAD: Get the FREE 90 Day Photography Blueprint

RELATED PODCAST: My Photography Journey: What Worked, What Didn’t & What Actually Moved The Needle

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]]>How to Learn Photography in 3 Months (Your Detailed Step By Step Plan)Taking Your First Steps in PhotographyPODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSAudrey AnnTue, 07 Jan 2025 10:58:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/first-steps-in-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:677797785b0ce26262bb9ebe

Did you get a your first ever DSLR or Mirrorless camera this year? Then right now you are probably feeling a little overwhelmed! I get it, there’s so many dials, buttons and menu options that it can feel a bit daunting to know exactly what you are meant to do first!

The first thing I want you to know is that you are not alone. I have over 17 years experience in photography, and been teaching for nine of those! Plus I literally taught thousands of students in my Auto to Awesome program, so I know that I can help you get to where you want to be.

In this week’s podcast episode, I’m sharing with you what steps you should take right now (as in this week) to help get you started in photography.

Tune in to learn: 

  • What to look for in a memory card

  • The two other items you’ll need before you can get started with photography!

  • Why your camera manual is worth it’s weight in gold

  • How to take your first steps away from AUTO (and why you want to do it)

  • Why finding educational resources is SO important

RESOURCES MENTIONED

STARTER WORKSHOP: Join us in the 5 Day Beginners Bootcamp!

RELATED PODCAST: New Camera? Here’s Your First Steps!

RELATED PODCAST: All New Photographers Should Know These 11 Things

RELATED PODCAST: What Do The Numbers on My Camera Lens Mean?

FOLLOW ON INSTAGRAM: Live Snap Love’s Instagram

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Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>Taking Your First Steps in PhotographyWhich order should I take Live Snap Love courses in?PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 12 Nov 2024 15:59:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/live-snap-love-course-order5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:672c14f59716cb069f22a750

In this episode, I’m answering a question I get a lot, especially at this time of year…

Which order should I take the Live Snap Love courses in?

We have quite a few courses on offer (which you can check out here!) so I understand it can be difficult to know where to start….and what to learn next!

In this episode, I’ll break down a typical learning path, the reasons why I recommend this order, and the Live Snap Love courses that align with that learning pathway. 

Even if you are not interested in any particular course, or indeed, getting any of our courses, you will still want to give this podcast episode a listen, because it will help you figure out your own curriculum, and where you should be focusing next!  

This will help you not waste your time and money on things that won’t move the needle for you, or understand what might be missing from your current curriculum. 

In this episode we discuss: 

  • The four key areas of photography that everyone needs to learn!

  • The all important areas you must learn as a strong foundation for everything else

  • Why getting an organization system for your photos is something you should do as early as possible in your photography journey

  • The key area that most (if not all) pro photographers will want to control themselves

  • The “next stage”  course I recommend that EVERYONE takes, because it’s so darn important. 

  • The key skills you need to learn to become a more proficient photographer

  • What to work on when you’ve got the crucial technical skills down!

  • The advanced editing skills you’ll want as you progress. 

  • The order to layer on the Live Snap Love courses. 

Want more? Check these out!

👉 Find Everything We Offer on the “Everything” Page!

👉 Why I’ve Revamped Our Courses (and what’s coming up!)

👉 My Photography Journey: What Worked, What Didn’t & What Actually Moved The Needle

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]]>Which order should I take Live Snap Love courses in?Speed Up Your Editing With PresetsPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTEDITING TUTORIALSAudrey AnnTue, 22 Oct 2024 14:59:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/speed-editing-presets5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:670dbafe98f41f35008080d8

In this week’s episode, we are diving into Lightroom Presets - what they are, what they do, and how they can help you speed up your editing process, so you can get more done in less time!

In this episode we discuss: 

  • What Lightroom Presets are, and how they work

  • Why many photographers, from beginners to pros use presets

  • Why presets are not the be all and end all when it comes to editing, and what to watch out for

  • What we have coming up for you in the store!

Want more? Check these out!

The Polished Preset System

How To Use Presets In Lightroom Classic

Edit Like A Pro In Lightroom Classic

4 Reasons You Should Be Editing Your Photos

Podcast Episode 7: Finding Photography Style

The 7 Deadly Lightroom Sins And How To Avoid Them

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]]>Speed Up Your Editing With Presets5 Ways To Work Around The Clutter To Get Great PhotosPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTCHILD & LIFESTYLEAudrey AnnTue, 15 Oct 2024 14:59:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/work-around-clutter-get-great-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6705df8ea797e659bb82640b

Although I don’t always want to remove day to day clutter from my frame (for example for more documentary photos) there are times when I want a cleaner, more streamlined look to my images than my cluttered, messy home will allow! 

Over the years I have come up with lots of tricks to help me create beautiful, clean photos in less-than-picturesque environments, from my home, to clients home, or even just being out and about with my camera. 

So in this week’s episode, I’m sharing with you 6 tips and tricks that will help you use your space - even a normal everyday home - and turn it into a great location for clean uncluttered photos! 

In this episode we discuss: 

  • The simplest way to get a “clean” background absolutely anywhere! 

  • What to look for in your home for a clean backdrop. 

  • How to use your window to create a clean, bright area behind your subject.

  • Another way you can use the light in your home to create a black background. 

  • And more!

Want more? Check these out!

A Step by Step Guide to Indoor Portrait Photography

Indoor Photography Settings and Tips

How to Choose Your Settings in Manual Mode

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]]>5 Ways To Work Around The Clutter To Get Great PhotosWant to Take Your Own Family Photos? Here’s How!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTCHILD & LIFESTYLEAudrey AnnTue, 08 Oct 2024 15:01:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/take-your-own-family-portraits5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66f4b0c3d54f2908a4017be4

Are you planning on taking your own family portraits this year, but not sure how to go about it? Then listen to this week’s episode as I walk you, step by step, through how to take your own family photos!  

Being able to take your own family photos, either for a traditional portrait to hang on your wall, for your holiday cards, or just to have a snapshot of your family at this stage of life,  is actually pretty simple to do - you just need to have a few basics down. 

Tune in to learn: 

  • What equipment you’ll need for taking your own family photos (less than you think!) 

  • What to consider when planning your family photoshoot. 

  • The tripod I use, or what you can use instead to support your camera. 

  • How to set your camera to take photos without you being there to press the shutter! 

  • A quick tip on your camera settings.

  • The most crucial aspect of taking your own family photos - getting the focus right! 

Links Mentioned:

99 Playful Prompts for Joyful Child & Family Photos 

My Cheap and Cheerful Tripod

Example Intervalometer (get the one for your camera model!) 

Example of an In Camera Interval Timer (Canon 6d)

Want more? Check these out!

Best Settings for Family Photography

How to Make Family Photo Sessions FUN! 

Best lens for child & family photography (my three faves!)

Toddler Photography Tips

Child Photography Poses for Awesome Kid Photos

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]]>Want to Take Your Own Family Photos? Here’s How!Pam McIntrye: Finding Purpose Through Photography After RetirementPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 01 Oct 2024 11:22:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/pam-mcintyre5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66eb7853a72c0c26f2ae61f7

In this episode, I’m talking with an incredible photographer, Pam McIntyre, who was actually a student of Live Snap Love many years ago, but has gone on to do amazing work in all different genres.

The story of her photography journey is an interesting one - she had a highly technical job in a male dominated industry, and took up photography as a way of having a creative outlet. 

She then recently retired, and worried that her life would lack focus and purpose, so she started a blog, and has been sharing her work and journey through the process of retirement there, along with sharing her fabulous photos.

Here we talk about her personal journey and the importance of finding purpose after retirement, how she stays creative, what things helped her grow the most, starting a blog, photographing birds and landscapes, her gear and so much more! 

Here’s just a few things we cover:  

  • Why Pam was worried about losing purpose after retirement, and what she did to overcome it

  • What her biggest game changer in photography was…..and what wasted her time.

  • The type of photography she started with, and what she focuses on now

  • Her favorite lenses for bird photography and landscape photography

  • How she is using photography as a way for mindful thinking 

  • And so much more! 

Here are some of Pam’s magnificent images!

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AUDREY’S LINKS MENTIONED:

The Auto to Awesome Course

The Mastering Natural Light Course

All our Freebies & Courses

PAM’S LINKS MENTIONED:

Pam’s Blog 

Pam’s Instagram Page

GAS Syndrome Blog Post

Want more? Check these out!

My Photography Journey: What Worked, What Didn’t & What Actually Moved The Needle

Why I’ve Revamped Our Courses (and what’s coming up!)

How to Get Started With Macro Photography

5 Ways to Show Motion in Photography

101 things to photograph (with ideas and examples!)

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]]>Pam McIntrye: Finding Purpose Through Photography After RetirementA Beginners Guide to Lensbaby Lenses!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 24 Sep 2024 15:02:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/beginners-guide-to-lensbaby-lenses-20245373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66ce68a457bcfe562caa6b32

Have you heard people talking about Lensbaby lenses, and wondered what they are, and why the heck you might want one?  Or maybe you’ve already been thinking about adding a Lensbaby to your collection but not sure if they are the right choice for you. 

I have coveted a Lensbaby for years, but was never sure which one I wanted, or what the difference was between each one! So I’ve been busy researching all the options, and in this week’s podcast episode, I’m going to share all my recently gained knowledge with you. 

We’ll dive into all things Lensbaby - what they are, some of the different types you get, who they are for, what to watch out for, and why they might be a great addition to your camera bag.

Tune into this episode where we discuss: 

  • What a lensbaby is

  • A quick and dirty guide to some of the different types of Lensbabies you can get, and the “look” each one provides. 

  • Who would use these lenses, and what type of photography they are often used for

  • Some things to consider when buying a Lensbaby.

  • Where to see examples of Lensbaby images

Want more? Check these out!

Lensbaby Website

What Do The Numbers On My Camera Lens Mean?

7 Essential Tips For Shooting With The 50mm 1.8 Lens

6 Different Types of Lenses (and when to use each one)

Zoom vs Prime Lenses: Which Is Right For You?

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]]>A Beginners Guide to Lensbaby Lenses!What’s the difference between Documentary & Lifestyle Photography?PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTCHILD & LIFESTYLEAudrey AnnTue, 17 Sep 2024 14:59:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/difference-lifestyle-documentary-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66ca717dd2163b7f2b293a7e

In this episode, I’m answering a question from one of our listeners, Emma, who wanted to know a little bit more about documentary and lifestyle photography, and what the difference was between the two. She asked:

“I’m never sure whether to call myself a lifestyle or documentary photographer. I like capturing unposed shots, and more candid moments, but I’m not really sure of the difference between the two. And does it matter?”

So tune into this week’s episode where we’ll chat about both forms of photography, what makes them different, and whether it really matters which one you call yourself!

Tune in to listen to me chat about:

  • An overview on what documentary is

  • An overview of what lifestyle photography and how this differs from documentary photography

  • Whether this is relevant to you as a “hobby” photographer, and whether this changes when you are in business

And if you have a question you’d like me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to cover, then be sure to let me know - just go to the link below, and ask away! 

Click here to leave your podcast questions!

Want more? Check these out!

How to Make Family Photos Sessions FUN (And get smiles from the kids!)

Ultimate Guide to Lifestyle Newborn Photography 

5 Must-Read Tips to Improve Your Lifestyle Photography

5 Ways to Capture the Ages & Stages of Your Kids

Lifestyle Photography: 8 Tips for Capturing your Own Children

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]]>What’s the difference between Documentary & Lifestyle Photography?All New Photographers Should Know These 11 ThingsPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 10 Sep 2024 15:02:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/things-new-photographers-should-know5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66ca2ab506d2a16e01f8ebf1

I know from personal experience that when you first start out in photography, it can often feel very overwhelming and frustrating, and for many new photographers, this leads to you giving up, thinking you might “never get it” or that you’re just not cut out for photography. 

Which is why I want to share with you 11 things that I think you should know right at the start of your photography journey!

These are the things I wish that I had been told, realized or simply paid more attention to in the beginning, because it would have saved me so much TIME and got to where I wanted to be that much faster. 

Even if you’re NOT a new photographer, but are simply struggling to get the images you see in your head to become a reality, then this is for you! Because the chances are, one of these 11 things is the very thing that’s holding you back.

Regardless of whether you are new, or have been shooting for a while, my goal with this podcast is to help you save your time, your energy, your bandwidth, and even your money, and help you get to where you want to be faster, and with less frustration.

Tune in to learn: 

  • How to approach learning photography so that you don’t feel overwhelmed in the beginning

  • The biggest change you can make that will have a huge impact on your photos 

  • What to ensure you learn in tandem with manual mode

  • How to avoid noise and grain in your image

  • What NOT to worry about in the beginning

  • Why gear is not the answer to your problems!

  • Why comparison is making you feel worse about your photos than you need to

  • The two crucial things to keep in mind when learning photography. 

Want more? Check these out!

FREE Photography Learning Blueprint

The Beginners Bootcamp

What to focus on when first starting out in photography

5 Reasons Your Photos Aren’t Turning Out The Way You Want!

3 Reasons Manual Mode Will Improve Your Photos

How Long Does It Really Take to Learn Photography?

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]]>All New Photographers Should Know These 11 ThingsHow to Plan a Fall PhotoshootPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 03 Sep 2024 15:02:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/plan-fall-photoshoot5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66c7d319e48f6003332bc7cc

Fall is one of the best times of the year for portraits, whether that be of your child, your family, your pet, maternity or any type of portrait! 

That’s because nature creates a fantastic backdrop for us in fall (or autumn in you are in the UK) with the leaves on the trees turning into beautiful shades of red, orange and yellow,  creating a vibrant, warm, cozy look to our portraits.

So in this week’s episode, I’m sharing how you can plan for a fall photoshoot - from when to find the best time of year to shoot,  what to think about when planning your outfits, lighting, practical tips and more.

In this episode we discuss: 

  • How to find the best dates to shoot in the US and UK (starting now from mid-Nov)

  • Location ideas for your fall photoshoot.

  • The best times of day for a fall photoshoot, so you can get the best light for highlighting the beautiful fall colours

  • What to consider when outfit planning, and some accessories that can really help tie everything together. 

  • Practical tips to help your fall photoshoot go smoothly!

Want more? Check these out!

US Fall Foliage Map

Forestry England Autumn Colour Map

Switzerland Autumn Foliage Map

Free Mastering Natural Light Guide

Sun to Shade

The Location Lab

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]]>How to Plan a Fall PhotoshootThe What and Why of Lens Filters for PhotographyPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 27 Aug 2024 10:06:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/guide-to-lens-filters5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66b49543898acc3b7c2cf962

One of the questions I get a lot from my students was about lens filters, so I created a free training for them inside our student community, the Live Snap Love Insiders Club.

But I thought that you would probably enjoy it too, so today on the podcast, I’m sharing the audio of that free training. Although it was obviously created with slides to show. you examples, I still think it will be incredibly interesting to listen to even with audio only (and if you are a student, you can watch the whole thing in our student community!)

In this episode, you are going to learn everything you ever wanted to know about lens filters, from the different types of filters available, what you would use each one for, what type of photographer will find them useful, and even how to use them! I’ll also answer some questions that were posted by our students.

So tune into this episode to learn:

  • What exactly lens filters are, and the main reasons for using lens filters (even when you can do some of the effects back in post production!)

  • The different types of lens filters that are available, including UV, neutral density, graduated density, polarising filters and more

  • What each filter is used for, and the effects it can give you

  • A quick start guide on how to use each of the filters we talk about

  • Tips for buying filters and what to look for

  • Whether filters are a “must-have” in the digital age, and if so, which ones do you need

  • What filters you should start with, depending on the type of photography you do

Want more? Check these out!

Which Lens Is Best for Lifestyle / Documentary Photography?

What do the numbers on my camera lens mean?

7 Essential Tips for Shooting With The Canon 50mm F1.8 Lens

How To Use Your Regular Lens For Macro Photography!

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]]>The What and Why of Lens Filters for PhotographyA Quick Start Guide to Aperture for New Photographers!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 20 Aug 2024 09:58:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/guide-to-aperture5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66b4910a6495561e31c08b26

Have you heard the terms aperture, f-stop and depth of field and wondered what the **** they all are, and how they all work together?

Then this is the podcast episode for you! Today, listen is as we go over what Aperture is, what the term F-stop means, and how this impacts your depth of field, and how this changes the look of your photo.

In this episode you’ll learn:

  • What exactly aperture is, and how it is really just a fancy term for a hole!

  • How you determine the size of the aperture, and what this looks like on your camera

  • How aperture changes the way your images LOOK by changing the depth of field

  • What depth of field is, and how you control it

  • A quick exercise you can do to see aperture and depth of field in action.

Here is what aperture looks on your camera lens with the blades making the aperture larger or smaller:

And how the size of this hole changes when you change the F stop:

This is an example of an image with a large depth of field (everything near to far in focus)

And an example of a shallow depth of field (with the background blurred out)

Want more? Check these out!

A 10 Minute Aperture Exercise

Aperture Examples: How to Use Aperture in Photography For Different Looks

The 5 Day Beginners Bootcamp

How to Choose Your Settings in Manual Mode

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]]>A Quick Start Guide to Aperture for New Photographers!How to Get Started With Macro PhotographyPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnWed, 24 Jul 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-to-get-started-with-macro-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6683c41d249a303bb5418ead

Learn how to get started with macro photography, from which gear you need, to camera settings and composition!
Macro photography has been an unexpected joy for me in my photography journey.

It allows you to see the world in a whole new way, and appreciate the beauty that can be found everywhere if you get close enough! 

So many people come to me and say that they would like to try macro too, but they don’t know where to start.  So that’s exactly what we are going to look at today - how to get started with macro photography! 

We’ll cover what macro photography is, how to get started within spending a fortune on gear, finding subjects and what settings to use, along with tips for light, focus and composition! 

If you’d like all the details in this podcast in PDF form (and a bit more info besides!) you can also download our FREE Macro Photography Starter Guide, where you’ll find everything in a handy dandy guide.

Or tune and learn: 

  • What macro photography actually is

  • The gear you need for true macro photography, and how you get started without breaking the bank

  • The macro lens that I personally use and love

  • Some ideas for macro subjects that I recommend for getting started with (and the ones I don’t!) 

  • What camera settings you’ll need to pay close attention to, along with where to start with your aperture settings

  • Tips for focusing when you are so close to your subject 

  • More photography tips including light and composition

Want more? Check these out!

Everyday Macro Magic

How To Use Your Regular Lens For Macro Photography!

Finding Inspiration for Photos Beyond Child Photography

How to choose a tripod

101 things to photograph

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]]>How to Get Started With Macro PhotographyNo time for photography? Here’s the fix!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnWed, 17 Jul 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/finding-time-for-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6683c17448598168e10ac239

Whenever I ask people about what the number one thing is that is holding them back from learning photography, one of the most common answers I get is not having enough time! 

I can definitely relate to that - most of us are struggling, trying to juggle several plates at the same time, so learning photography can get shunted down to the bottom of the pile. 

Although I can’t help you add more hours to your day, I can try to help you work smarter in the hours that you DO have, and help you find time in your day for photography - and that’s what we are going to dive into in this week’s podcast! 

Tune into this episode to discover: 

  • Why scrabbling around trying to learn photography via disconnected tutorials is wasting your time

  • Why being more structured in how you approach learning photography will ultimately save you so much time

  • How to map out your own learning curriculum (or download my free blueprint if you are a beginner) 

  • How to find time in your day for photography, or factor it into your existing schedule! 

Want more? Check these out!

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]]>No time for photography? Here’s the fix!5 Must Know Editing Tips to Help You Edit Like A Pro!EDITING TUTORIALSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 09 Jul 2024 08:22:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/must-know-editing-tips5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6683b8aafe10fa2a7decf58b

So if you have been following Live Snap Love for a while, you'll know that I LOVE editing photos. It’s a HUGE part of photography for me, because it's another area where I get to be creative, or get the photo looking exactly the way I want it to look!

Editing is like the icing on the cake or the seasoning on your food - you might not technically need it, but without it, your photos can be a little bland and uninteresting.

But the good news is, even a little bit of editing with some basic tools can have a huge impact on your photos! 

So in this week’s podcast episode,  I'm sharing 5 must-know editing  tips to help you edit your photos like a pro, so that they look more polished and professional, and help you get a more consistent style for your photos. 

Tune in and discover: 

  • The first thing you’ll need to do in editing, to make sure your photos look beautiful, fresh and natural.

  • How to turn your image from so-so to masterpiece by playing with the exposure

  • What to do if you want a specific style, like light and airy or dark and moody 

  • Why you should avoid using presets to start with and learn how to take the wheel and drive yourself! 

  • Where to start when it comes to editing your photos, and a good way to experiment with editing. 

Want more? Check these out! 

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]]>5 Must Know Editing Tips to Help You Edit Like A Pro!Full sun giving you problems? Try doing this instead.PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSAudrey AnnTue, 02 Jul 2024 09:26:59 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/shooting-in-full-sun5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6683b5f1085fb729561974ed

How many times have you heard that in order to get the best photos, you should try to shoot in the Golden Hour, in other words, the hour right before sunset or just after sunrise, because that is when you get the best light?

Probably a lot! And to be fair, it’s a pretty reasonable thing to suggest, as the light is truly magical at those times of the day, because the angle of the light is much better, it’s softer and less harsh, and it bathes everything in that beautiful warm glow. 

However, many times, we simply cannot shoot at that time of day.  Maybe we’re taking our kids to the beach or the park later in the day, or we’re photographing a wedding that is happening in the afternoon, or we’re on holiday and sightseeing during the day, or maybe you’re in business and your clients can’t make the golden hour. 

The good news is, there is a way to photograph people that allows you to get nice, soft, even light on your subject, even at midday, and is easy enough to use as a beginner. 

So in this episode, I’ll give you a couple of tricks to try for shooting in full sun that will help you get better “people” photos, even in the height of summer!

Tune in to this podcast episode to discover: 

  • Why shooting in full sun is generally considered “bad” for traditional portraits / people photos 

  • How utilizing open shade can help you get softer, more even light 

  • Where you can find open or covered shade 

  • What to do when there is no shade available 

  • Some other ways to play with photography in full sun!

Want more? Check these out!


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]]>Full sun giving you problems? Try doing this instead.Ai and Photography: Where Do YOU Draw The Line?PODCASTEDITING TUTORIALSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 25 Jun 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog//ai-and-photography-where-do-you-draw-the-line5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6672e2e012ce18306e7a58de

There has been a lot of chatter recently about the use of AI in photography, especially as Photoshop's AI tools have been growing steadily, and very recently both Lightroom and Lightroom Classic introduced a new generative AI tool inside Lightroom, making it even more accessible to use AI on your images.

Plus we've been seeing a lot more AI generated images both used in commercials, by companies, on Instagram, and a whole host of other places. 

So where do YOU draw the line when it comes to the use of AI in photography? I'm definitely no expert in AI but it did prompt me to think more closely about the use of AI in my own work, and that’s what we are discussing today on the podcast! 

From tagging and noise reduction to generative AI tools, together we will explore the ethical considerations and personal boundaries of AI in photography. Whether you're a seasoned photographer or just starting out, this episode will get you thinking about what is and isn't acceptable in your own photography journey!

You’ll discover: 

  • What AI is in Photography, and how we have maybe been using AI without realizing it!

  • Some recent examples of AI photos that made the news (including one that won a photography competition!) 

  • What I personally use AI for, and where I draw the line.

  • Does it make a difference if you made the changes manually or using AI? 

  • The ethical considerations of using AI in photography

Want more? Check these out! 

LISTEN 🎧4 Reasons You Should Be Editing Your Photos 

LISTEN 🎧Wondering why you need Photoshop? Here’s 5 Reasons. 

LISTEN 🎧Lightroom or Lightroom Classic in 2024?

WATCH 🎥 How to Use Lightroom Classic’s DeNoise Tool

WATCH 🎥 How to Edit Photos in Lightroom Classic

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]]>Ai and Photography: Where Do YOU Draw The Line?3 Simple Ways You Can Improve Your Photos Right Now!PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 18 Jun 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/3-ways-to-improve-your-photos-right-now5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:667032100f13fd5ad3f62291

Over my 17 years of practicing and learning photography, I have had plenty of a-ha moments or changes I have implemented that have totally changed my photos for the better. 

So today on the podcast I am sharing just three of these, but these three are ones that you can do today (as in right this minute!) and they don’t require any new equipment,  spending money, or learning anything too complicated! 

Tune in today and learn the 3 simple changes you can make today that will change your photos forever. 

You’ll discover: 

  • The simple shift in lighting that will make your images look more three-dimensional and compelling

  • What to take control of in your camera, and why leaving it up to a bunch of wires and sensors won’t create images that look the way you want them to

  • How to compose your images with more care, by being intentional about what is in the frame (and what to watch out for!) 

Want more? Check these out! 

LISTEN 🎧How to Find Dramatic & Interesting Light For All Your Photo

WATCH 🎥 What NOT to Wear for Photos

READ 🏆4 Tips To Make Your Pictures Look More Professional

READ 🏆How to Choose Your Camera Settings In Manual Mode (with examples!)

WATCH 🎥 Aperture Examples: How to Use Aperture in Photography For Different Looks

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]]>3 Simple Ways You Can Improve Your Photos Right Now!4 Summer Photography Projects That Will Help You Bottle Up The SeasonPODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 11 Jun 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/summer-photography-projects5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6666e6ea0aabf256282ab501

In need of a new photography project for summer? Then I've got you covered!  In this episode of the Photography Made Simple podcast,  I'm giving you 4 ideas of photography projects you can do that will help you document summer, get more creative photos, or just motivate you to pick up your camera. 

Whether you are photographing your young family, or you’re retired and capturing your travels or you just want to capture the beauty of your days and the world around you, there will be a summer photography project here that will suit you! 

Don’t forget to download your FREE summer photography prompt list here! 

So join me in today’s episode and discover: 

  • How a Summer Photography Project can help you get back on track and taking photos again if you’ve hit a slump

  • The projects you can do that will help you document your days, along with special tips for families.

  • Summer photography projects that don’t involve shooting people, but instead inspire you to explore different photography subjects and techniques

Want more? Check these out! 

15 Fun Summer Photoshoot Ideas For Kids & Families

How to Take Great Photos At The Beach

Your Reading List for Better Summer Photos

What Photography Equipment to Pack for Your Vacation

Sun to Shade

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]]>4 Summer Photography Projects That Will Help You Bottle Up The Season5 Ways to Show Motion in PhotographyPODCASTGEARKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 04 Jun 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/motion-in-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:665d94d638505d61596817cb

The way that you show movement or motion in your photos can give your images a totally different look and feel,  and today on the podcast, we are looking at all the different ways you can capture it! 

Using motion is a great way to make your images look more creative, have stronger compositions, or just play and have fun!  You can choose to freeze the motion, have motion blur in the background, have motion blur on your subject, introduce motion blur just by camera movement and even do time lapse photography!

In this week’s podcast, we’ll look at all 5 different ways to capture motion in your photos,  along with some tips and ideas for using each one. 

So join me in today’s episode and discover: 

  • The 5 different ways to show motion and movement in your photos.

  • How to ensure that you “freeze” the motion in your images.

  • How to introduce intentional motion blur on your subject

  • How to show the motion in the background, but keep your subject sharp

  • What time lapse photography is 

Want more? Check these out! 

101 things to photograph (with ideas and examples!)

How to Create Ghostly Photos for Halloween!

Example Photos with Camera Settings

Why your focusing technique might be leading to soft images

Exposure Essentials

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]]>5 Ways to Show Motion in PhotographyWondering why you need Photoshop? Here’s 5 reasons.PODCASTEDITING TUTORIALSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 28 May 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/wondering-why-you-need-photoshop-heres-5-reasons5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66545dc027e76c2e8766b73b

As much as I love using Lightroom Classic for editing my photos, it doesn’t mean that it can do absolutely everything you need!

There’s a damn good reason why Adobe bundled both Lightroom Classic CC and Photoshop CC together in their Photography Plan - because when you have access to both programs, you can do absolutely anything your little editing heart desires!

But when should you use Photoshop - and what can it do that Lightroom Classic can’t? 

That’s exactly what we’re covering today on the podcast! 

I’m going to go into detail on the 5 main reasons to take your images into Photoshop for advanced editing, and give you some ideas for each one so you can get a feel for the whole treasure trove of adjustments you can make in Photoshop! 

So join me in today’s episode and discover: 

  • The type of pixel adjustments that you will take your image into Photoshop for 

  • How Photoshop can help you play with colour in your images

  • The types of overlays and filters that can add extra magic to your photos

  • Some advanced portrait retouching I find myself doing from time to time 

  • Why Photoshop is a must-learn for all types of photographers! 

Check out our Photoshop Courses! 

👉 Photoshop Fundamentals

👉 Photoshop Magic

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]]>Wondering why you need Photoshop? Here’s 5 reasons.8 Questions To Help You Determine The Best Lens for YOUGEARPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 14 May 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-to-choose-the-best-lens5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:663a116a19533e2b84a5285b

Choosing a lens can feel like a difficult and overwhelming task- there is so much choice that it can be hard to narrow it down and decide which would be the best lens for YOU. 

Let’s face it, lenses are expensive, so it’s an important thing to get right! Although you can always sell your lenses if they turn out not to be the one for you, it’s easier and more cost effective to get it right the first time. 

So today on the podcast, I’m going to walk you through 8 questions you should ask yourself when shopping for a new camera lens.

These questions will help you determine the best lens for you, based on your genre, interest, and style of photography, but also practical considerations such as weight or brand loyalty.

So join me in today’s episode and discover: 

  • The 3 questions you should ask yourself to help you choose the best focal length for your genre and style of photography.

  • Why focal length is about more than simply how much you want to fit in the frame.

  • The practical considerations to take into account, such as whether to get a zoom or prime, and whether weight is a factor

  • How to get better quality lenses for a more affordable price

  • All 8 questions you should ask yourself to choose the best lens for YOU. 

Check out these for further reading! 

👉 Get the FREE Which Lens Kickstarter Guide

👉Zoom vs Prime Lenses - Which One Is Right For You?

👉7 Essential Tips for Shooting with a 50mm f1.8 Lens

👉6 Different Types of Camera Lenses (and when to use each one)

👉Camera Lenses Explained

👉What is A Fast Lens & Why Should I Get One?

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]]>8 Questions To Help You Determine The Best Lens for YOUHow to Find Dramatic & Interesting Light For All Your PhotoPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 23 Apr 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/find-dramatic-light-for-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:66211d0923fcaf26baf849a4

Do you know how to find beautiful, dramatic, interesting light for your photos?

Light is EVERYTHING in photography. Good light will illuminate your subject, draw your eye to what you want the viewer to focus on, minimize distractions, make images more dramatic or magical, give them a three dimensional quality and just generally make our images more compelling and unique.

That’s why learning how to see the light, use it in different ways, and be able to control or manipulate it is crucial for photographers of all genres.  

So today on the podcast, I’m giving you advice on how you can find more interesting and dramatic light for your photos, regardless of whether you take photos to document your family, capture still lifes or portraits, so it really is for everyone.

You can also find out more about our Mastering Natural Light course here. 

Tune into today’s episode to learn: 

  • Why taking time to slow down as a photographer is the first steps in learning how to get more interesting photos

  • The biggest takeaway our Mastering Natural Light students leave the course with

  • The one thing that nearly all images will benefit from - and it’s all to do with the light. 

  • How to experiment with the same light in different ways to get more interesting images

  • The end vision to have in mind that will enhance both the look and feel of your images.

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]]>How to Find Dramatic & Interesting Light For All Your PhotoWant to start shaping light? Get a reflector!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 16 Apr 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/shape-light-reflector-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:661400ebf7c4b630b3c5c8b3

Learning how to use and modify light is essential for taking your photos to the next level in photography, because how you use and control the light will determine how your photos turn out! 

One tool you can use to modify and shape light is called a reflector. If you’ve heard people talking about using a reflector,  but weren’t quite sure what it does, or indeed whether you need one, then I created this episode for you! 

Simply put, a reflector is simply a tool that will help you change or mould the light to suit your vision, and help you get your images to look the way you want them to.

In today’s episode, I’m going to cover what a reflector is, when you might want to use one, when the right time is to get one, and if you do, which one you should get.

Before we dive in, if you’re interested in learning more about light, be sure to download our FREE Mastering Natural Light Starter Guide! You'll learn all about the building blocks of light - its colour, intensity and direction - along with some ideas for using each one to kickstart your creative juices.

Go grab it, then tune into today’s episode to learn: 

  • What exactly a reflector is

  • Why you use a reflector, and some specific situations you might find yourself using one

  • When and why you should consider getting a reflector, even if it is just for learning about light 

  • The type and size of reflector I recommend that most people get (bonus, it’s only around $40!)

  • What each side of the 5 in 1 reflector does. 

More Resources:

The Sun to Shade Course

The 5 in 1 reflector I Use!

FREE Mastering Natural Light Starter Guide

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]]>Want to start shaping light? Get a reflector!8 Photography lighting ideas that will supercharge your photos!PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 09 Apr 2024 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/8-photography-lighting-ideas5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6613f838bbdb4b228cb0a202

Light is the single most important element of your photo, and is one that  can lift a mediocre, mundane scene into something incredible and awe-inspiring. That’s why learning how to use light to its full potential is so incredibly important if you want to take your photos to the next level. 

However, I understand that working with natural light can seem a little overwhelming at first, because you don’t get to choose the light you are given on any particular day! 

But that doesn’t mean you don’t have any control - far from it. If you can learn how to work with light you’ve got, or how to modify the light to suit your vision, then you will have mastered a crucial component of photography that will leave you feeling inspired and creative, and creating photos that WOW. 

In this episode, I’m giving you just a few different photography lighting ideas so you can experiment using the light around you. My goal is a simple one - I want to inspire you to pick up your camera and start looking at the LIGHT as your inspiration! 

And if you’re interested in learning more about light, be sure to download our FREE Mastering Natural Light Starter Guide where I’ll walk you through six essential types of natural light and how you can use them today!

More Resources:

The Sun to Shade Course

Want to start shaping light? Get a reflector!

FREE Mastering Natural Light Starter Guide

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]]>8 Photography lighting ideas that will supercharge your photos!What Do The Numbers On My Camera Lens Mean?PODCASTGEARKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 26 Mar 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/camera-lens-numbers5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65f1af8fc9f1b30d5070d501

“What do all these numbers on these camera lenses actually mean?!” 

This was one of my very first questions I had when buying my first DSLR and I don’t mind telling you, it took me a little while to figure out! 

So in this week’s episode, I’m going to break down what the numbers on your camera lens actually mean, so that you can figure out how a particular lens will perform,  and therefore whether it is the right lens for you. 

Tune into today’s episode to learn: 

  • What the numbers before the mm mean on your camera

  • The quick way to know whether your lens will look more “zoomed in” or “zoomed out” 

  • How this changes depending on your camera body, and the crop factor you should always take into account

  • Why some camera lenses have two numbers before the mm, and some only have one

  • What that F number means on your camera lens, and why sometimes  you will have two numbers separated by a dash

  • Plus we’ll breakdown different camera lenses so you can see how to approach looking at lenses to see how they will perform, and compare them to see which lens is best for you. 

More Resources:

Camera Lenses Explained

What is a fast lens and why should I get one?

Different Types of Camera Lenses (And When To Use Each One) 

Focal Length Comparison 

Crop frame vs full frame

35mm vs 50mm

7 Essential Tips for Shooting With The Canon 50mm F1.8 Lens

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]]>What Do The Numbers On My Camera Lens Mean?Do I always need to meter to 0 in manual mode?PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 19 Mar 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog//do-I-need-to-meter-to-0-in-manual-mode5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65e8790472cd8130d12d4e59

In today’s podcast, I’m answering a question that has been submitted by one of our listeners, about shooting to 0 in manual mode.

This is such a great question, because I’m sure that so many people wonder the same thing when they first make the switch to shooting in manual mode.

Tune in to find out the answer! 

Tune into today’s episode to learn: 

  • Whether you should always meter to 0 in manual mode, or whether you should shoot over or under

  • Why using exposure compensation isn’t always the same as using manual mode

  • And finally, why using manual mode is actually the quickest way to get the scene to look the way you want it to! 

More Resources:

FREE Manual Mode Cheat Sheet

3 Reasons Shooting in Manual Mode will Improve Your Photos 

5 Simple Questions That Will Change Your Photos

Photography Case Study Katie Lynn

Photography Case Study Erica Heinrichs

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]]>Do I always need to meter to 0 in manual mode?5 Photography Apps I Use & Love!PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 12 Mar 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/5-photography-apps-i-use-amp-love5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65df5d92ba58e519bd8b5bbd

These days, smartphones are not only a way to keep in touch with people, they are also a great tool for photographers! Not only can you take great photos with your phone, you can also use a number of apps that have been created especially for photographers. 

In this podcast, I’m going to share 5 apps that I personally use and love. 

Even though I don't use all of these all of the time, they are so useful that they stay on my phone / iPad for when I need them!

The idea for this podcast episode actually came from a post I shared on Instagram that I got a lot of questions about, so I decided to expand upon it! If you’d like to bite-sized photography tips and tutorials, be sure to follow me on Instagram too!

Tune into today’s episode to learn: 

  • The app I use for group shots to make sure I get everyone in focus!

  • A useful app for creating and using your photos, or if you are in business.

  • How I use the Lightroom app for sharing and editing on the go. 

  • An app that will help you plan a shoot for the best light

  • And finally, the app that helps with posing!

COME SAY HI ON INSTAGRAM!

For bite sized photography wisdom, follow me on Instagram ➡️ https://www.instagram.com/livesnaplove/

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Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>5 Photography Apps I Use & Love!Lightroom or Lightroom Classic: Which Do I Need in 2024?PODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 05 Mar 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/lightroom-vs-lightroom-classic-20245373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65df58b5558830484a875068

Whether you’re a long time user of Lightroom or Lightroom Classic, OR you’re brand new to editing and just wondering which program to get, you’ve probably come to realize that there are two different programs available from Adobe, both (confusingly!) called Lightroom. 

This always raises a lot of questions, particularly for those who are just starting out on their editing journey and are confused about which one they should get, and the differences between the two! 

Adobe does make absolutely top-notch, wonderful editing programs, but sometimes they don’t make it easy to determine which one will suit you best. 

Never fear, Audrey’s here! 

Today on the podcast, I’m going to dive into the differences between these programs, and how to decide which is the best one for you.  Because each program is suited to a different type of photographer, and the type of workflow you have, or want to have.  

So tune into today’s episode to learn: 

  • How to identify the different versions of Lightroom, and the main differences between the two.

  • Why Adobe created two different versions of the same program, and which each is aimed at. 

  • Why you get BOTH Lightroom and Lightroom Classic in the photography plan from Adobe

  • Whether the new Lightroom Local mode a good substitute for Lightroom Classic

  • How you can decide which of these programs is best for YOU.

  • Which plan you should buy (scroll on down for screenshots if this is confusing!) 

To buy the Lightroom 1Tb Plan:

Follow this link and click on the blue Buy Now button.  A screen like the one below will appear. Choose Lightroom 1Tb at $9.99 per month (circled in pink below) 

This gives you Lightroom CC only, with 1Tb storage.

To buy the Photography Plan: 

Follow this link and click on the blue Buy Now button.  A screen like the one below will appear. Choose Lightroom 1Tb at $9.99 per month (circled in pink below) 

This gives you Lightroom CC, Lightroom Classic & Photoshop and 20Gb of storage. 

Links & Resources:

 👉 Download the FREE Lightroom Classic Starter Kit

 👉Edit Like A Pro in Lightroom Classic

 👉Get Organized in Lightroom Classic 

 👉Check out the Photography Plans from Adobe

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Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>Lightroom or Lightroom Classic: Which Do I Need in 2024?6 Ways to Kickstart Your Creativity In PhotographyPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 27 Feb 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/kickstart-creativity-in-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65dd2b60d0bab323b70ec557

I’ve always said that photography is a game of two halves - one side of our brain needs to focus on the technical aspects, such as our camera settings, where to focus, finding the light, etc.  The other side needs to see the creative possibilities - the composition, angles, or unique twist we can stamp on our photos! 

As photographers, it’s pretty common to focus more on the technical side, and don’t set aside some time for nurturing or practicing our creativity!  

While learning the technical side is incredibly important (we need to know HOW to create the vision in our head into a photograph!) spending a wee bit of time nurturing our creativity can be rewarding too. 

If you feel your creativity is a little lacking or you’re stuck in a rut, tune in to listen to today’s podcast where I’ve given you some ideas to kickstart your creative side! 

So tune into today’s episode to learn: 

  • Why keeping an idea journal can be beneficial, and what to look for when writing down ideas. 

  • How limiting yourself can actually make you more creative!

  • Some ideas for photography projects you can do that will force you to be more creative.

  • A cheap and cheerful hack to use your existing lens in a different way

  • Editing ideas to get more creative without picking up your camera! 

Further Reading:

FREE Creative photography exercises and projects guide!

20 PHOTOGRAPHY PROJECT IDEAS

10 WAYS TO IMPROVE  YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY THIS WEEKEND

HOW TO EDIT LIKE A PRO IN LIGHTROOM CLASSIC 

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Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>6 Ways to Kickstart Your Creativity In Photography5 Reasons Your Photos Aren’t Turning Out The Way You Want!PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 20 Feb 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/why-photos-not-good5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65d47761335b7f559c7b2d5e

There were so many times back at the early stages of my photography journey where I felt totally disheartened and frustrated, because no matter what I did,  my photos just didn't turn out the way that I had envisaged in  my head,  and nothing like the photos I wanted to take. 

Of course, there can be several reasons why each individual image doesn’t quite hit the mark, but if it’s happening frequently, and most importantly,  you don’t know what you’re doing wrong, it’s time to take control and do something about it! 

That’s what we’re talking about in today’s episode;  the 5 MOST likely reasons why your images just aren’t turning out like you see in your head,  and how to fix it! 

Here’s what we’re talking about today: 

  • Why your exposure settings plays such a big role in how your image looks, and why taking control of them matter so much

  • The biggest “ingredient” in your photo to get right. 

  • How to approach a scene so that you get the best results.

  • Why you need to get your camera manual into your hands today! 

  • What to STOP thinking about for now, and what to focus on instead. 

Links Mentioned

3 Reasons Shooting in Manual Mode will Improve Your Photos 

5 Simple Questions That Will Change Your Photos

Photography Case Study Katie Lynn

Photography Case Study Erica Heinrichs

The 90 Day Photograph Starter Guide & Blueprint

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New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

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Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!


]]>5 Reasons Your Photos Aren’t Turning Out The Way You Want!5 Simple Questions That Will Change Your PhotosPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 13 Feb 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/5-simple-questions-that-will-change-your-photo5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65cab2e811d149038a5a249f

Do you ever feel like you’re not really in control of your image? That you’re just winging it, and hoping for the best when you press the shutter? Or maybe you get all flustered and not sure what you should be doing? 

Then you are going to love this week’s episode! 

In it, I’m going to break down the FIVE questions you should ask yourself when you take your photo.  Asking yourself these questions will help you shoot more purposefully, which in turn, will help you get better photos!

So join me in today’s episode and learn: 

  • Why thinking about the end result can help you make camera decisions when you take the shot

  • The most important factor in any image, and what to look for on your subject

  • How to check for distractions in the frame, and some options for you for minimizing them

  • Some tips for using what is around you to make a more interesting photograph!

Links Mentioned

📕Download the manual mode cheat sheet.

📷The 3 Step Guide To Choosing Your Settings In Manual Mode

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>5 Simple Questions That Will Change Your PhotosWhen are you ready to start your own photography business?PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY BUSINESS TIPSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 30 Jan 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/ready-to-start-photography-business5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65b7a4f5d97d3c63251900b3

Are you thinking of starting your own photography business, but wondering if you are ready to take the plunge and start charging for your work? Or how long you need to have been shooting for? Or what experience do you need?? 

Then this week’s episode is for you! 

I'm going to talk about some of the things that I personally think you should have in place, and be able to do, before you start charging for your skills. 

Tune in to learn: 

  • Why deciding what type of business - and who you want to serve - matters. 

  • The key photography skills you should have mastered before you start charging. 

  • What experience you need, and how you can get it (without seeming like the bargain basement option) 

  • Why consistency is one of the most important things you need before starting to find clients. 

  • How understanding your costs BEFORE you start doing free / low cost practice sessions is SO important, and some of the things you need to consider. 

  • An action plan for starting to charge money for your skills. 

Resources Mentioned

Photography Biz Start Up Kit

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Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>When are you ready to start your own photography business?What is a fast lens and why should I get one?PODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 23 Jan 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/what-is-a-fast-lens-and-why-should-i-get-one5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65ae5a46ac20370d8cfd89e7

In this week’s episode, we’re going to be talking about lenses, specifically one type of lens, called “fast lenses”. 

You may have already heard this term bandied about and wondered what the heck it refers to! Or maybe you’ve already heard of it, but not sure exactly WHY you might want one, if this is something you should get, and what you should look for if you did! 

So tune in as I break down exactly what fast glass refers, and why adding one to your lens collection is a good idea!

I must warn you, we talk a bit about settings in this episode, where I give you some numbers for aperture, shutter speed, and ISO and give comparison numbers. If you are the type of person who needs to see a number written down for it to make sense (I do!) then be sure to grab a pen and bit of paper so you can see the numbers in front of you as we go along. 

Here’s what we’ll cover today: 

  • What exactly people mean when they talk about fast glass, and how it gets its name.

  • The key reason people get a fast lens, and the benefits it can bring. 

  • A real life example of the difference having a fast lens can make to your settings, and the options you have. 

  • Some suggestions for fast lenses if you’re ready to move away from the kit lens. 

Resources & Links

Canon 50mm F1.8

Canon 50mm F1.4

Yonghuo 50mm F1.8 Lens

Nikon 50mm F1.8 Lens

Nikon 50mm F1.4 FX Lens

Sigma 35mm Art Lens for Canon

Tamron 35mm F1.4 Lens for Canon

Canon 85mm F1.8

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New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

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Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!


]]>What is a fast lens and why should I get one?6 Tips for Successfully Organizing Your Photos in Lightroom Classic PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSEDITING TUTORIALSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 16 Jan 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/tips-for-organizing-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65a012300a199a1f9f15ccf7

As we kick off a brand new year, it’s a great time to think about how to organize and clean up your digital image files, and a great program that can really help you do this, is Lightroom Classic. In fact, that is exactly why Lightroom Classic was created - to give photographers like yourself a tool to manage your photos with a complete end to end workflow.  

So today on the podcast, I’m going to give you 6 tips for helping you organize your images using Lightroom Classic.  

Now if you don’t use Lightroom Classic, you can still take the tips that I’m going to give you and apply them to your chosen software, so if you don’t have Lightroom Classic, this can still apply to you!

Tune in to learn: 

  • Why setting up folder system head of time will help you when it comes to saving and importing your photos

  • Tips to help you stay on top of your image collection once you have imported them. 

  • How to use keywords and filenames to help you find your image files at a later date

  • The MOST important element of your post production workflow. 

  • Why having a repeatable workflow will save you getting back into a mess in the future. 

RESOURCES MENTIONED

Get Organized In Lightroom Classic”

My 4 Step System For Culling Photos with Intention

FREE Lightroom Classic Starter Kit

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

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Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!



]]>6 Tips for Successfully Organizing Your Photos in Lightroom ClassicNew Camera? Here's your first steps!PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 09 Jan 2024 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/new-camera-heres-your-first-steps5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65958a2c5854373d207c9a51

Did you get a brand new DSLR or Mirrorless camera under the Christmas tree last year? Then this episode is for you! 

Getting your first camera is both exciting and terribly overwhelming! There’s so many dials, buttons and menu options that it can feel a bit daunting at first. 

I know both from personal experience, and from teaching photography to thousands of students over the last 8 years that it can also be very disheartening when you don’t get the photos you want from your camera.

So much so, that I know of many people who gave up pretty quickly, because they could get better photos from their phone! 

I don’t want that to happen to you, so today on the podcast, I’m giving you 6 simple things you can do TODAY that will instantly improve your photos.  That way, while you’re learning the in and outs of photography, you are at least getting better photos so you aren’t tempted to revert back to your phone camera! 

Tune in to learn: 

  • What you’ll need your camera manual for (and what you definitely won’t!) 

  • Where you should take your first photos for best results. 

  • The simple technique that will instantly make your photos look more professional. 

  • What nearly all new photographers do that make their images look like snapshots (and what you can do instead)

  • An introduction to a simple composition rule that will make your photos look more dynamic

  • How to make sure your camera hits the right focus point! 

RESOURCES MENTIONED

Join us in the 5 Day Beginners Bootcamp!

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

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Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>New Camera? Here's your first steps!How to Start (& Finish!) A Project 365 for 2024PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 12 Dec 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-to-start-amp-finish-a-project-365-for-20245373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:657328e9f2a50278732f70c9

Back in 2015, I completed my first ever Project 365! Taking a photo every single day for a year not only improved my photography skills, because it gave me the opportunity to practice every single day, and try out new things, but also gave me a wonderful record of my day to day life. Taking a photo a day is almost like your own personal journal, so it’s also a fantastic personal project as well as a photographic one. 

Over the years I have completed more Project 365’s - but also failed at many more too! 

So in this week’s podcast, I want to share with you some helpful tips for starting - and most importantly completing - a Project 365. 

If you’re thinking about starting a Project 365, or are just a little bit curious about what it’s all about, this episode is perfect for you!

Tune in as we chat about: 

  • Why doing a Project 365 can help you grow your photography skills. 

  • Some of the decisions you should make NOW if you decide to commit to a Project 365 in 2024. 

  • The different ways you can share or print your photos as you go along (or at the end of the year!) 

  • Whether to go freestyle with your Project 365, or use prompts or themes to help keep you on track. 

  • Why perfection should not be the goal of a Project 365!

  • What NOT to do when you miss a day (which you will) 

  • How to prepare for the days when you just don’t have a clue what to take a photograph of! 

Links & Further Reading

101 Things To Photograph (with examples and exercises!

5 Photography Projects You Can Do (That don’t require daily shooting) 

Let me know what topics you'd like me to cover on the podcast!

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

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Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!


]]>How to Start (& Finish!) A Project 365 for 202410 Tips for Capturing Christmas MorningPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 05 Dec 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/10-tips-for-capturing-christmas-morning5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6568b9b1981b8563fbb23aac

Photographing Christmas morning can be a little tricky - there can be lots going on, the lighting is often less than ideal, and of course, you want to actually be present in the moment and not stuck behind a camera all the time!

Plus if your day starts out like my Christmas mornings used to work out, you’re woken up by the kids, dragged downstairs half asleep, only to find that your camera is out of battery and you have a full memory card just when you want to start snapping away at the kids opening their presents! 

So today I have 10 tips for you that will help you be prepared for anything on Christmas morning - these tips will help you with everything from choosing your camera settings, to how to use the light effectively, and  practical tips that will all work together to help you capture awesome memories of your Christmas morning. 

Tune in to learn: 

  • The 3 things I always do the night before Christmas!

  • The type of lens I recommend that you use for Christmas morning “documentary” photos. 

  • What to watch out for with your ISO and shutter speed settings. 

  • Why turning off your on-camera pop up flash is a must!

  • What you can do in both natural light and artificial lighting situations. 

  • The stress free way to get in the frame with your kids on Christmas morning!

  • And more! 

Links & Further Reading

Speedlight 101: On Camera Flash Kickstarter Guide

Free Camera Settings Cheat Sheet

How to Shoot in Manual Mode (a Step By Step Guide!)

"Why are my photos grainy (and how to fix it) "

Sigma 35mm Art Lens (Canon Version but also available for Nikon etc)

Interval Timer (This is for my camera, find the version that fits yours!)

How to Take A Self Portrait

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>10 Tips for Capturing Christmas MorningFree Training Recording: How to Get Creative Light BokehPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 28 Nov 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/free-training-recording-how-to-get-creative-light-bokeh5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:655ccb1c803ece32a3649225

We’re doing something a little bit different on the podcast today, as I’m sharing the audio from a free lesson we share in our FREE Christmas Photography Bootcamp!

I highly recommend that you join the bootcamp to get the full video training, so that you can get the fun diagrams and image examples, plus of course, get the video training we have coming up on Day 2 and 3 of the bootcamp too! 

Today we’re sharing the lesson from Day One, which is all about Creative Light Bokeh.  We cover, step by step, how to get those little circles of light in the background, tips and tricks on how to improve them, and also how to take it to the next level by creating shaped bokeh. 

Join in the Christmas Photography Bootcamp to learn: 

  • How to get creative photos of holiday lights

  • Get gorgeous bokeh in the background of your portraits

  • Tips and tricks to document the season by incorporating storytelling clues into your photos

  • Step by step guide on how to take photos of your kids just lit by the Christmas tree!

  • And so much more! 

JOIN US FOR THE CHRISTMAS PHOTOGRAPHY BOOTCAMP:

 👉 https://livesnaplove.com/christmas 

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

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Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!




]]>Free Training Recording: How to Get Creative Light BokehThe 7 Most Common Beginner Photography Mistakes You Should AvoidPODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 21 Nov 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/the-7-most-common-beginner-photography-mistakes-you-should-avoid5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:655b88f64ca4fd131575e059

Whenever you try your hand at anything new, you are bound to make a few mistakes along the way!  And learning photography is definitely no exception.

Although making mistakes can actually be a good thing, as they are part and parcel of the process for learning photography, that doesn’t mean that we need to keep making them, or indeed, make them in the first place!

I certainly made my fair share of mistakes when learning photography,  but after teaching thousands of others over the last 7 years,  I’ve definitely noticed that most beginner photographers keep making the same mistakes. 

So in the spirit of trying to save you a ridiculous amount of time and energy, today I want to share with you the 7 most common mistakes beginner photographers make, so you can learn what to avoid, and most importantly, what to do instead so that you can master your camera, and get photos you love, much quicker, and with less frustration. 

Tune in to learn: 

  • The lighting mistake that most new photographers make, and what to do instead when you are just starting out. 

  • The reason you’re photos have a weird colour cast, and the two ways you can adjust it for accurate tones. 

  • Why using the wrong mode can leave you stuck and unable to get the images you see in your head. 

  • The simple composition rule that makes your images look more dynamic. 

  • Why your photos might be a little soft and blurry, because of the settings your camera frequently picks for you when in AUTO or Aperture Priority Mode. 

  • Why you panic when you’re taking a shot, and the best antidote for this. 

JOIN US FOR THE CHRISTMAS PHOTOGRAPHY BOOTCAMP:

 👉https://livesnaplove.com/christmas

Links & Further Reading

Free Camera Settings Cheat Sheet

My Photography Journey: What Worked, What Didn’t & What Actually Moved The Needle

3 Reasons Manual Mode Will Improve Your Photos-mode-will-improve-your-photos

3 Camera Settings Mistakes Every New Photographer Should Avoid

How to Shoot in Manual Mode (a Step By Step Guide!)

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!


]]>The 7 Most Common Beginner Photography Mistakes You Should Avoid3 Reasons Manual Mode Will Improve Your PhotosPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 14 Nov 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/3-reasons-manual-mode-will-improve-your-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:654e22913fb4394cc91bd8c9

I have no doubt that you have heard, time and time again, that if you want to improve your photos, and most importantly, get the images that you see in your head to translate to the camera,  you you need to learn how to shoot in manual mode. 

But I also know that no matter how many times you hear that, you can feel reluctant to make that final switch to shooting in manual mode. I know because I went through the same time too! And I have taught thousands of students in my Auto to Awesome program who have done the same thing. 

Which is why today, we’re going to dive into exactly WHY making the switch to shooting in manual mode is so darn important, and the difference it can make to your photos.

Tune in to learn: 

  • What manual mode is, and how this differs from AUTO or the semi automatic modes in your camera

  • Why shooting in manual mode will allow you to get more creative images that look exactly the way you want them to. 

  • The reason you are getting inconsistent exposures, and why manual mode puts an end to all of that (and why shooting in manual mode can often be easier!) 

  • The everyday lighting situations that your camera can’t handle in any of the semi automatic mode (or at least not well or consistently!) and why being able to use trickier lighting situations will make for better photos. 

Links & Further Reading

Free Camera Settings Cheat Sheet

How to Shoot in Manual Mode (a Step By Step Guide!)

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>3 Reasons Manual Mode Will Improve Your PhotosThe Photography Learning Path To Take You From Beginner To ProPODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 07 Nov 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/photography-learning-guide5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:65490cd9a314e37be22df3ff

Learning photography can often feel very overwhelming - there is much to learn, so many different factors and elements, and so much information to get your head around, that it can feel very daunting to know where to start, or what to focus on next.

This is obviously worse at the very beginning of your photography journey, when everything is brand new to you! But even if you have been shooting a while, it can be hard to know where to focus your efforts to get your photos to the NEXT level. 

I’ve had a camera in my hand for 17 years, and have taught thousands of photographers, of all levels and abilities over the last 10, so over the years I’ve been able to see what a typical learning path looks like….and where we can go off course or get stuck! 

Which is why on the podcast today I’m sharing a Photography Learning path with you that will take you all the way from beginner to advanced photographer, through 4 different “stages”

Here’s what we’re talking about today: 

  • The 4 main areas to learn in photography

  • The ever-so-important first stage in everyone’s photography journey, and what you need to learn before you can progress any further. 

  • How to approach learning the post production side of photography, and what you’ll need to learn (and the optional but fun stuff!) 

  • The element of photography that can make or break your photos, and the list of things you might not have even known about!

  • Why the fourth and final stage is the most fun, and what you can focus on here for more creative photos. 

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

The 90 Day Photograph Starter Guide & Blueprint

All our courses & resources 

Edit Like A Pro In Lightroom Classic

Get Organized in Lightroom Classic

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>The Photography Learning Path To Take You From Beginner To ProMy Photography Journey: What Worked, What Didn’t & What Actually Moved The NeedlePODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 31 Oct 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/my-photography-journey5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:653f6a1b2a382244539c674c

In this episode, I’m time traveling back to 2007 when I first picked up my camera, and giving you a guided tour of my photography journey over the last 17  years or so!

I’m sharing my ups and downs, the mistakes I’ve made, the challenges I’ve had, and the lessons I've learned along the way. Most importantly, I’ll also be sharing what actually moved the needle the most for me in photography, what changed my photographs for the better, and what I would recommend to other photographers at different stages of their photography journey. 

In this episode we discuss: 

  • What got me started in photography, and why I gave it up just a few months in….and what made me pick up my camera again.  

  • The struggles and mistakes I made in the first 3 years of learning photography, and why it took me so long to figure out how to get the image I saw in my head to translate to the camera. 

  • The single thing I did that had the biggest impact on my photos (and what didn’t move the needle at all!) and advice I would give to all new photographers. 

  • What I did next to make my photos look more polished, and take them to the NEXT level. 

  • The final turning point in my photography journey, and how this improved my photos, made me more confident behind the camera, and gave me more artistic, creative photos.

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

All our courses & resources 

Edit Like A Pro In Lightroom Classic

Get Organized in Lightroom Classic

The Magic Of Photoshop Course

Macro Photography Course: Everyday Macro Magic

Finding Inspiration for Photos Beyond Child Photography

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!


]]>My Photography Journey: What Worked, What Didn’t & What Actually Moved The NeedleWhy You Might Want An External Flash Unit (Even As A Hobbyist)PODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 24 Oct 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/why-you-might-want-an-external-flash-unit-even-as-a-hobbyist5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:653620ba0eb7d350318eca1b

Have you wondered about whether you should get an external flash unit, particularly if you are a hobbyist who doesn’t shoot weddings - because you’re just not sure when or where, or even why, you would use it?

If so, you’re going to enjoy this week’s episode, because I’m diving into why you might find that an external flash unit a good idea, the situations where you might want to use an external flash unit, and some suggestions on what to look for if you do decide to buy a flash unit. 

In today’s episode I’ll cover: 

  • Why you want to avoid using your camera’s pop up flash

  • The difference between a pop up flash and an external flash unit like a speedlight 

  • How you can use a speedlight in low light 

  • Why a speedlight can even be useful on sunny days! 

  • The subtle difference you can add to portraits by combining a speedlight with natural light 

  • Finally, what to look for when buying a speedlight. (And you’ll find some suggestions at the bottom of this post!) 

Links & Further Reading

Speedlights Simplified

Audrey’s Amazon Top Picks

Neewer Speedlight:

Godox Speedlight:

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>Why You Might Want An External Flash Unit (Even As A Hobbyist)The 3 Step Guide to Choosing Your Settings In Manual ModePODCASTKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 17 Oct 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog//manual-mode-camera-settings5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6528116f540f0657879f18e0

One of the questions I get asked a lot is about how to go about choosing your camera settings when shooting in manual mode, and whether there is a correct order in which to set them.

I know it can feel a little daunting when you move from having the camera make decisions for you, to making ALL of them yourself, so in this week’s episode, I’m going to talk about the best way to approach choosing your own camera settings, and what order to choose them in. 

In today’s episode you’ll learn:

  • How to approach choosing your own camera settings, so you know where to start

  • The order to choose your camera settings

  • When aperture is the most important setting, and a rough guide to the numbers you might want to choose

  • When shutter speed is the most important settings, and a rough guide to the numbers you might want to choose

  • When ISO is the most important setting, and a rough guide to the numbers you might want to choose 

Links & Further Reading

Free Camera Settings Cheat Sheet

How to Shoot in Manual Mode (a Step By Step Guide!)

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>The 3 Step Guide to Choosing Your Settings In Manual Mode5 Tips for Photographing in Low LightPODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSKerry-Ann McDadeTue, 10 Oct 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/low-light-photography-tips5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:652420a2fa9e624eaef19194

As we move into the winter months (at least here in the Northern Hemisphere!) you can often find yourself shooting in low light conditions, in other words, places where there is a limited amount of light to shoot with!

I know that this can seem daunting at first, but over the years I have really started to look forward to this time of year, because it means I get to start working with very little light. 

So in this week’s episode, I’m going to share with you some tips for working in low light, that will hopefully help you get photos that you love, even in the dark winter months ahead. 

Tune in to learn:

  • How you can use your camera settings to maximize the available light in the scene.

  • What type of lenses are a godsend in low light situations 

  • Why you only need a tiny amount of light to create an image

  • The editing I often do to low light images. 

  • What you can do when you DON’T want a dark and moody image in low light. 

Check out:

Speedlights Simplified

Links & Further Reading

Canon 50mm F1.8 Lens

Nikon 50mm F1.8 Lens

How to Remove Noise In Lightroom Classic with the New DeNoise Tool 

Audrey’s Amazon Top Picks

Neewer Speedlight:

Godox Speedlight:

Why understanding light will make you a better photographer 

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>5 Tips for Photographing in Low LightThe What And The Why Behind Buying the Fujifilm X100VPODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 03 Oct 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/why-i-bought-the-x100v5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:651439dbe585d3084d0bc4a4

This week, I’m taking you behind the scenes a little bit, as I talk about the latest addition to my photography gear, the Fujifilm X100V!

So tune into today’s episode and we’ll discuss:

  • Why I purchased this particular camera in the first place. 

  • Where this type of camera excels. 

  • What type of photography I personally intend to use it for. 

  • First impressions of this camera and whether it has lived up to expectations.

  • Some similar types of camera (if you fancy using something similar!) 

  • Why switching to a new manufacturer and model of camera is pretty easy,and what I focus on for each switch

Links & Further Reading

The Fujifilm X100v

Audrey’s Amazon Top Picks 

The 10 Step Checklist For When You Get A New Camera

Live Snap Love on Instagram 

Subscribe on your favorite platform!

New episodes drop every Tuesday, so make sure to click that follow button to get notified when they land!

Apple

Spotify

Google

Amazon Music / Audible

Finally, if you have a question you’d love me to answer, or a topic you’d like me to discuss on the podcast, I’d love to hear from you. I want to talk about what you want to listen to, so just let me know.

Just click here to fill out the form!

]]>The What And The Why Behind Buying the Fujifilm X100VHow To Remove Noise in Lightroom with the New DeNoise ToolPODCASTEDITING TUTORIALSAudrey AnnTue, 22 Aug 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/remove-noise-in-lightroom-with-denoise5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:64ca1e4a50e33348d61333d0

Discover how to remove noise in Lightroom with the new DeNoise tool!

We all struggle with getting noise in our images from time to time. 

Unfortunately, noise can lead to our images looking a little less sharp and clear as you would like, particularly if you have a crop frame camera, which doesn’t handle noise as well as its full frame counterparts!

Although you can (and should!) do your best to minimise noise in camera, there are always going to be situations when we have to push our ISO higher than we would like, which is when we need to fix it in editing.

And that’s where the Denoise feature from Lightroom comes to rescue!🦸‍♀️

So today, I’m going to show you how this tool works, along with 4 tips to help you get the best results, so that you can get rid of noise in your photos literally in seconds.

You’ll learn:

  • Where to find the DeNoise Tool in Lightroom Classic

  • How to use it to remove noise in your photos in seconds

  • When you should use this in your editing workflow (and why it’s REALLY important to do it at this time!)

  • The type of files you can use this on (and the ones you can’t)

  • What to do if you don’t get the results you were looking for.

Plus, we have a special freebie for you!

You can download our FREE Lightroom Starter Kit, which will give you a full Lightroom workflow to follow, free lightroom presets, and a guide to importing and exporting. (I know!)

Ready to dive in? Click to watch the video below (recommended) but if you prefer to listen on the go, go to wherever you listen to your podcasts!

WATCH ON YOUTUBE

LISTEN TO THIS EPISODE ON THE PODCAST

Now I'd love to know: Do you currently use Lightroom, and if so, how are you finding the new Lightroom DeNoise tool for removing noise in your photos?

(And if you don’t yet have the Photography Plan from Adobe, this is definitely a feature worth getting it for! Just go here and select the Photography Plan for $9.99 per month and you’ll be all set 😉

Or is there another program that you are using that has similar features? Let me know in the comments!

Don’t forget to grab your FREE Lightroom Starter Kit before you go too :-)

More Like This:

  ]]>How To Remove Noise in Lightroom with the New DeNoise ToolFinding Inspiration for Photos Beyond Child PhotographyPODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSAudrey AnnTue, 15 Aug 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/beyond-child-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:64ca365d8d7f6a3c77dc7d7a

Are you currently in a place in your photography journey where your main source of inspiration - your children - have either grown up and flown the nest?

Or maybe they are at an age where they really aren’t happy about being your subject any more?

Or maybe you don’t have kids, but are wondering what on earth you can find to photograph?!

Whatever it is for you, the upshot is you’re not feeling particularly inspired and motivated to pick up your camera lately, and feel like you’ve run out of things to photograph.

That’s exactly what I’m talking about today in this episode of the Photography Made Simple Podcast and Live Snap Love YouTube Channel!

In this episode you’ll learn:

If you’re struggling to come up with inspiration for photos, or are just wondering what your next steps for photography after photographing your own children, then this episode is for you.

Plus, we have a special freebie for you! You can download our FREE projects and creativity exercises guide, which will give you loads of ideas to keep you feeling creative and inspired, so be sure to grab your free copy.

Watch the YouTube video below, or if you prefer to listen on the go (hello you multi-tasker you) you can listen on the podcast.

WATCH ON YOUTUBE

LISTEN TO THIS EPISODE ON THE PODCAST

Now I'd love to know which one of these has resonated with you or if you have something else that you're exploring or that lifts you creatively.

Leave a comment below because I would love to hear what you're going to be focusing on next - it might just serve as inspiration for me too!

More Like This:

  ]]>Finding Inspiration for Photos Beyond Child Photography3 Camera Settings Mistakes Every New Photographer Should AvoidPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 08 Aug 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/camera-settings-mistakes5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:64c0a5472ee2932e8d44791b

Today we're diving into some common camera settings mistakes that many new photographer make with their camera settings, and most importantly, how to fix them!

I made the exact same mistakes myself, and from teaching thousands of students inside Auto to Awesome, I can tell you that most new photographers make the same ones!

So the chances are these mistakes are ones that you are making too :-)

The good news is, these are really simple fixes, and you can make the changes you need today to instantly get better photos!

In this episode you’ll learn:

  • Why using a low ISO setting is causing your images have excessive noise and grain

  • Why people often mistake unclear images as noise, when it could be more to do with your shutter speed.

  • The mistake most new photographers make when they upgrade from the kit lens to something like the “nifty fifty”

  • How choosing the wrong aperture can lead to photos that aren’t as sharp and clear as you would like.

Plus, we have a special freebie for you!

You can download our FREE camera settings cheat sheet, which will provide you with a handy reference to ensure you're using the right settings every time. 

Ready to dive in? Watch the video below or dive into the podcast - whichever way works for you :-)

WATCH ON YOUTUBE

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

So there you have it, 3 mistakes that you might be making with your camera settings that are stopping you from getting your images looking at the way that you want them to!

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  ]]>3 Camera Settings Mistakes Every New Photographer Should AvoidMy 4 Step Process for Culling Photos With IntentionPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTEDITING TUTORIALSAudrey AnnTue, 18 Jul 2023 16:15:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/4-step-process-for-culling-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6495c533701c8a03255a32f5

Today on the podcast I’m answering a question that was asked during the live Q&A call that we had a couple of weeks ago inside our student community “The Insiders Club”, all about how to decide which photos to keep, and which you can get rid of!

If you’ve been having trouble overshooting, and drowning with the amount of photos you’re holding onto, you’re going to love this podcast episode!

Before I dive in I do want to quickly remind you about the Live Snap Love Insiders Club, our Facebook Community that is exclusively for Live Snap Love students.

It’s a great place to meet other people who are on the same journey as you, and make new friends from around the globe. It’s also a wonderfully warm and supportive community, so it’s a fantastic place to share your photos with others - in fact, twice a month we post a prompt for a photo that you can go out and shoot and share!

Plus each month as a bonus, I go live where I answer questions or just generally chat about photography on something that our students would like a bit of input on.

Now if you are a student and you’re not in the group, go and get in there now, I’d love to meet you! Just go into your course that you are a student of, and right there in the welcome module is your invite to join the group.

(And if you are not a student, but would like to join the group, then becoming a student is the way to get in there! Go to our courses page and buy anything on that page to get an invite to join)

But back to today’s podcast episode, where I’m answering a question in the Live Q&A call that went like this:

“Audrey, I have trouble picking and choosing what photos to delete. I want to just keep my best shots but I find it hard to let some go. I’m talking personal photos here and also wildlife, landscape photos. I feel like my photos are somewhat of a journal. I just know I can’t go on taking photos and not deleting more! Curious as to how you decide what photos to let go and what ones to keep”

So this is a great question, and overshooting and having more photos than I needed and having 10 photos of the same thing was something that I was really guilty of back in the early days of my photography journey!

I would simply take a lot of photos, sometimes several photos of the same thing, and I would end up with, images cluttering up my hard drive that were essentially the same photo over and over again, but with tiny little differences.

And I would spend a long time having to call my photos and decide which ones to keep and which ones should go!

Thankfully over the years, I feel I've managed to fine tune my process - it's not ideal, but I come back with much less photos in the first place, and when I'm culling, I'm much more intentional about which ones I keep and which ones I get rid of.

Step #1 - Shoot With Intention

I’m not just thinking about which photos to keep and which ones to to get rid of just in my computer AFTER the shoot.

Instead, my goal is always to shoot more intentionally and stop overshooting so I don’t come back with a memory card filled with 10 variations of the same picture!

When I'm doing this, I'm first thinking about the end destination, and why am I taking these pictures and what am I going to do with them.

For example, am I here to document a moment in time? Is it to tell a story? Am I going to put them in my family photo books? Is it a photo that I want to frame on my wall? Is it just because I love seeing the beauty in something, and I want to capture that and remember that moment?

So thinking about why I'm taking the photo and the end destination for it helps me when I'm shooting.

I have different frameworks that I created to shoot to depending on the purpose and subject.

One is called the IMPACTS shooting framework, which is something that I use when I am trying to tell a story or document an event.

It really helps keep me on track to know which photos to take, to make sure that I tell the story in a cohesive way, and that I have a wide variety of pictures that help me to do that.

If I'm shooting more portraits, either to hang on my wall or for someone else, or I'm photographing an item, see a flower, then I use what I have called the RIPPLE framework.

And, again, this just helps me take a variety of photographs of the same thing so that I have a number of photographs to choose from, but they're not 10 of the exact same thing!

So both of these frameworks really help keep me on track to make sure that I get a wide variety of photos in the first place and that I don't overshoot.

Step #2 - Get Rid of “Bad” Photos First

Once I have uploaded my photos and they're in Lightroom Classic (which I have as part of the photography plan from Adobe) then I then start my culling process.

I go through the images once with my gut reaction.

So in that first pass, I'm really getting rid of all of the photos that are “bad”.

There are maybe some that are out to focus, maybe somebody's eyes are closed, or I the photo is just not very interesting!

I actually delete all those photos immediately. There is no point in them cluttering up my drive!

This helps by removing the deadwood so you now you are only looking at good or great photos!

Step #3 - Look for the Great Photos!

The next stage is where I go through them and look for the ones that are GREAT.

So there will always be photos that you just love in any shoot, regardless of what it is, whether that's your documentary style photos, whether that's photos of a bird or macro photos or portraits, you'll go through and you'll think that one is a keeper.

There's something about the light or the expression or the moment or the movement that takes that photo and elevates it - in other words, it’s a 5 star photo.

So I do actually mark those as 5 stars or I can mark them as a pick depending on the process you have.

And then what you're left with is this range of photos that aren’t bad enough to be bad photos, and they're not good enough to be there in the great pile. They’re middle of the road photos, and these can sometimes be the hardest to decide on.

Which leads me onto Step 4!

Step 4: Back to my Shooting Frameworks!

This is where I go back to my shooting process because now I'm thinking: what is the end destination for these photos? Do I just want a photo for my wall? Do I want to create a spread in my photo book?

So I'm thinking about that, but I'm thinking about that same shooting frameworks that I used when I was there shooting in camera.

Let me give you an example of that.

So let's say that I am shooting for my family photo book, and I'm documenting a day at the beach.

I know that I've gotten rid of all those bad photos, and I have all of my great ones, but I want to round those out and tell the story of the day.

So now I'm looking at my shooting framework that I use, and I am creating that spread of photos that help tell the day.

As these are for my family photo books, I know that I don't really want any more than 12 photos.

So I'm sticking with my IMPACTS shooting framework, which gives me at least 7 photos, and then I can add in a few more that takes me maybe to my 12 or I stick there with my 7.

And that really helps me narrow them down because I don't need 5 photos essentially showing the same thing! I need to narrow each element down to 1 or 2.

In other example, maybe I’m taking a macro photo of a flower, and I want to put that on my wall.

Well I only really need one great photo! But I might want to keep some of the other ones, so again, I look to my RIPPLE shooting framework, and I get rid of any images that are very similar.

I just have to make choices about which photo is best, and it might come down to a small thing, like the composition, or that the light was slightly better in one than another, or that one has slightly more focused than the other one when I zoom in and look at them.

How this differs for paid sessions…

Now if I were shooting a paid session for a family, for example, then I am going to end up with more than 12 photos! Instead, I'm going to give them several from each option to choose from.

But, again, I've still been using my Ripple shooting frameworks, so I'm not going to give them 20 photos of essentially the same thing!

And I’m going to narrow it down for them - I'm not going to make them choose between 10 different photos of them in basically the same pose, but with slight differences.

I am going to narrow that down and give them 2 or 3, full body ones, and then 2 or 3 half body ones.

Really, it’s the same thing, but I’m giving them a wider choice so they candecide which of those they prefer. Sometimes they'll see something that they don't like about themselves that we wouldn’t even consider, or they might really like expression on their child because it just melts their heart in a way that we don't have that emotional reaction to.

So, definitely, when you're doing this for clients, you're going to have a wider range of images but you can still use that same principles.

Hope you enjoyed this post, and I’ll see you again same time, same place next week.

Keep on Reading / Listening

What’s the best Adobe Photography Plan?

Lightroom Workflow For Beginners

The 3 Step Framework for Successfully Organising Your Digital Photos

4 Tips To Make Your Pictures Look More Professional

]]>My 4 Step Process for Culling Photos With Intention7 Photography Tools I Always Take With Me When TravellingPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 11 Jul 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/travel-photography-gear-essentials5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:649e7be233586f5992ca9351

If you’re heading out on holiday or vacation this year, then you might be wondering what photography equipment to take with you....and what you should leave behind.

We all want to take pretty much everything with us, because each bit of our photography kit, whether that be our lenses or reflector or flash, each serve a purpose, and we want to them available should we need it.

BUT, there’s usually limited space available, so there has to be a balance between having the PERFECT lens for a certain shot, or a reflector to help bounce light, or whatever else I may want, and what you can reasonably fit into your camera bag!

So on the podcast today, I’m sharing with you the 7 photography items I pretty much always take with me when travelling.

The list might vary a bit depending on where I’m going, but it’s a really good basis to start out with, and many of them will be the same regardless of whether I’m on a city break or heading to the hills!

#1 Spare Memory Card

So I always go with at least 2, usually, 3 memory cards.

I want to make sure that I have enough space on my memory cards that I don't have to sit there thinking “oh no, I have to delete some photos from my memory card. before I can start shooting again!”

So I have 4 memory cards in total, and I just like to take pretty much all of them with me because they're so light! They're so easy throw into your camera bag and they don't take up any space or any weight. This way, I know that I have enough space for everything that I want to capture.

I also make sure before I go that I've uploaded all the photos from the memory cards and that nothing is on them.

That way I know that I can just take a card, pop that into my camera, and start shooting. There's nothing worse than you go put your card in your camera, and then you realize there's photos on there, and you think “Did I upload those already, or did I not?!”

And you end up keeping them just in case, and therefore you don’t have the space for new photos that you thought you had.

So memory cards is something I take with me regardless of when I'm going; whether that be to the city or to the beach or to the hills.

That way I know that I've got enough space to capture everything I want to, and I don't have to censor myself with how many photos I'm taking or start to delete some from the memory card.

#2 Spare Battery (& Battery Charger)

The second thing I always take with me is a spare battery and a battery charger.

So if I'm just going away for a couple of days, I might just take only the spare battery and leave the charger at home because it can be a little bit bulky. (I can fit a lens into the same space as my battery charger will fit into!)

But, again, by having 2 batteries, it means I can make sure that I've always got a fully charged one in my camera bag.

And if I've exhausted it during the day because I've been shooting all day, I just pop that onto charge, and then I've got one ready to go in my camera bag the next day, and I don't need to worry about the fact that I might forget to put it on charge when I get back, which I often do!

Again, having that spare battery again doesn't take up much room, but it can be a lifesaver!

#3 Backpack (with wet weather protection)

Another thing that always comes with me regardless of where I'm going, is a camera backpack.

II do have a purse-style camera bag, but it's really not as comfortable for wearing for long periods of time. It looks pretty, but it sits across the body and you end up with one sore shoulder because all the weight's going to one place.

Depending on how much stuff I'm taking with me on any particular day, I want to be comfortable!

So I bought myself Lowepro Backpack.

It's really sturdy, It's got little pockets for everything, little sections where you can put in your chargers, and you've got a bit down the back where you can put your laptop or iPad or something like that.

The only thing I don't like about it is how it opens from the side, and so even if I get my husband to open it while it's still on my back, I'm scared that the stuff's going to fall out!

One more thing I will say about the backpack is to make sure that you take wet weather protection with you.

Any camera bag worth its salt will come with a little bag just like a waterproof cover that you can put over the top, which will make sure that all your photography gear is protected should you find yourself in an unexpected downpour.

#4 16-35mm Lens (OR my 35mm lens)

Finally, we're going to get into lenses!

I think lenses is one of the things I find most challenging to decide what to pack and what to leave behind, mainly because I shoot with prime lenses.

(In case you don't know, a prime lens is a lens that only has one focal length, so if you want to zoom in and get closer or get further back to fit more in the frame, you have to physically move yourself!)

Each lens in my lens arsenal serves a different purpose. Maybe one lens is a perfect lens for 1 or 2 things, but I need another lens to help me do something else.

For example, my 35 mm is a great all rounder, and a fantastic walkabout lens. but I wouldn't use it for portraits. It's not also ideal if I want to take any longer range type photos.

So the one lens that pretty much always comes with me (and it's actually the only zoom lens that I own) and that is my Canon 16-35mm Lens

The reason this lens has found its way into my camera bag for pretty much anywhere that we go on vacation is that you can use this for quite a lot of walk around photography.

I can use that for shooting indoors, like in a restaurant., or street photography, or when we go to the beach, or if we go for a walk up the hills. I can also use it environmental portraits where I want photos of my subject, but lots of the surroundings as well.

So I find my 16 -35mm allows me to take images in multiple locations so it's a really good multipurpose lens for taking on vacation.

Before I had that lens though I took my Sigma 35mm Art Lens for Canon with everywhere- I LOVE that lens!!!!

#5 A second lens!

I always tend to take at least one other lens with me.

Now I do try to keep it to two lenses, so I have to be careful what lens makes it into my camera bag as the second!

Which I take really depends on where I'm going and I intend to be doing.

If I'm going to be taking any kind of portraits when I'm away, then I'll probably put my 85mm into my camera bag. Again, it's quite small and lightweight and it’s fantastic for portraits.

But if I'm going to be doing portraits and I maybe feel that I wanna to have something that will allow me to take photos from further back., for example photographing wildlife, then I tend to put in maybe my Canon 135mm, which is or even my 200mm, which is great for portraits as well.

The other one that I might consider taking and, again - this all depends on where I'm going and what I intend be doing at the time - is my macro lens.

Again, that doubles as a fantastic portrait lens, allows me to take macro and it's slightly longer in length, which, again, can be useful for wildlife photography.

#6 Lenspen

The lenspen s is a little tool for cleaning your lenses.

it looks like a really thick pen, and one end has a little brush on it. and the other hand end has a little microfiber cloth on it.

You use the brush to brush off any debris on your lens and then you use the other side to clean your lens.

I find if I've been maybe at the beach or something like that, you can end up with little sand particles around your lens. I want to get them off of there as quickly as possible I don't scratch my lens! So that little brush just allows me to do that, and then I can clean away any smudges with the other side of the pen.

#7 My Phone / Phone Apps!

And my final thing technically not a bit of photography equipment, but it's phone!

My phone is fantastic for taking photos in its own right.

There are times when I don't want to take a backpack and everything with me, so I will sometimes just shoot with my phone.

I prefer my camera, obviously, as it gives me more more options and I can get more creative with it, and it gives me higher quality photos. But there are times when your phone camera is just it's it's so handy!

Plus you can still practice photography with a phone camera! If you're looking at the direction of the light, telling a story or thinking how to compose your subject, then you can get fantastic photos with your phone.

In addition to using the phone as a camera in it’s own right, it’s really handy to have access to certain apps, such as weather app so I can see what it's going to be like that day, or the calculator for sunrise and sunset.

What I don’t take with me…

Now the things I don't ever take with me or very, very rarely is a tripod.

I do have one, and I use it very occasionally. But more likely than not, I'm going to find a way that I can steady my camera without taking out the tripod. I am a lazy photographer, so I don't ever take that with me.

I don't generally take my flash with me either. The only time that might change is if I was travelling for an important indoor event, and I’m in charge of taking photos of the people there, then my speedlight will go in!

(Want to know how to use a speedlight? Check this out!)

I also know a lot of people who will take an external hard drive with them. The purpose of taking your external hard drive with you is so you can upload the photos from your memory card and have them safely stored on your external hard drive.

This means you've still got 2 copies of your photos should anything happen to your memory card!

So there you have it!

That's the 7 things that I take with me on vacation or when I'm traveling (and the things I don’t!)

And if you are going away this year, whether you're going to the beach or to the hills or to a city break, I hope you have a fantastic holiday, and you take lots of wonderful photos!

Don't forget that you can share them with me on Facebook with the dedicated post we usually have every Thursday (unless I forget) or on Instagram with the hash tag #livesnaplove.

Until next week,

Audrey

KEEP ON READING!

How to Get Great Photos At The Beach

How to Use Open Shade in Photography

35mm vs 50mm

4 Ways to Make Your Photos Look More Professional


]]>7 Photography Tools I Always Take With Me When TravellingHow To Use Your Regular Lens For Macro Photography!MACROGEARPODCASTAudrey AnnMon, 03 Jul 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/macro-lens-alternatives5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:648c3f27f495483c0a3bbb1e

Today I’m going to be talking about a form of photography that really opened my eyes to the beauty that is around me every single day, even in the most mundane elements, and that is macro photography!

You may have considered giving macro photography a try, but you maybe don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars getting a macro lens, or at least not yet, and are wondering if you can take macro photos without one.

Well, the good news is there are a number of other options available to you, ranging from around $15 to $70, so there really is something for everyone, regardless of your budget.

Today, I’m going to go through some of the options that are available to you, the pros and cons of each one, plus I’ll tell you what I would personally recommend that you get.

So if you are serious about wanting to take macro photos, but not quite serious enough to warrant a full macro lens - or it’s simply just not in the budget for you right now - this is the post for you!

Before we dive in, if you’re interested in macro photography, then I have something for you that you are going to love- our FREE Macro Photography Starter Guide, where I'll break down some essentials for getting started with macro, from the equipment you’ll need (less than you think and with some inexpensive options!)  tips and ideas for finding subjects  advice on choosing the right camera settings, and more! Go grab it now before you forget :-)

#1 - Close Up Filters

Close Up Filters are essentially magnifying glasses that screw onto the filter threads of your existing lens.

They work by allowing you to decrease the minimum focusing distance so you can get closer to your subject and still focus on your subject!

The higher the number of your close up filter, the closer your lens will be able to focus.

Close up filters are often sold in kits with various magnification strengths (like +2, +4, +8 and +10) in one kit.

You can use these individually, or you can stack them on top of one another for extra magnification (so you could even use these with your existing macro lens if you have one!)

You'll need to know the thread size of the lens that you intend to work with. For example, a Canon 50mm F1.4 lens has a thread size of 58mm.

If you're not sure, check the thread size of your lens by looking for the symbol for the Greek letter phi (it's like a circle with a line through it) and the numbers immediately before or after it will be the size you need.

(If you are still not sure just google "thread size of name of lens" and it usually comes up!)

I’m not going to sugar coat it, the images you get with a close up filter won't be anywhere near as sharp as a dedicated macro lens, but they will let you dip your toe into the world of macro for a really affordable price.

Obviously, the more you pay, the better quality you will get, and I have linked to a few options for you below - these are all for different thread sizes, but remember to get ones that fit the thread size of YOUR lens!

Close Up Filter Set by JJC

Close Up Filter Set by Hoya

Close Up Filter Set by Vivitar

#2 - Lens Reversing Ring

Another cheap and cheerful option is to get a lens reversing ring, although this definitely won't be for a good idea for everybody!

These allow you to mount your existing lenses backward on your camera (so the part that you normally have against the camera body is facing outwards) so that you can get increased magnification.

There's a couple of things that you need to be aware of before you go down this route.

As there is no longer any connection between the camera body and the lens, you can't use any features that require that connection, for example auto focus, or changing aperture.

That's why they work best if you have a lens with a manual aperture ring - in other words, where you can control the aperture you use by a ring on the lens.

If you don't have that feature on your lens, you won't be able to make any adjustments to your aperture, and you’ll be limited to working at your lens’s maximum aperture, which is a pretty big downside for macro photography!

Finally, there is a bit of a risk to the lens, since you are essentially putting the elements that are normally safely encased on the inside on the OUTSIDE, where they were not intended to be. For that reason, don't use these with an expensive lens!

Here's an example of a lens reversing ring here, but you will need to get one that fits your specific lens and camera body!

Lens Reverse Ring Example

I do have to say this is my least preferred option, but if you have a cheaper lens with manual aperture ring then it's worth a shot :-)

As a side note, you technically don’t need a reversing ring, you can just hold the lens in this back to front way, but it’s awkward. Might be worth trying out first before buying.

#3 Extension Tubes

The final option I have for you is extension tubes.

An extension tube is a hollow tube that fits between your lens and your camera mount. These work by extending your lenses - in other words, it moves your lens further from the camera, and the front element closer to the subject.

There are two types of extension tubes available:

The first - which also happen to be the most affordable - don’t maintain the electrical connection between your lens and camera body.

Again, just like with the reversing rings, this means unless your existing lens happens to have an aperture ring, you won't be able to change the aperture you're using, and you'll be limited to working at your lens’s maximum aperture.

You also won't be able to use auto-focus (although it is often easier to focus manually with macro anyway).

The second type - and the most expensive type - also has the electrical contacts that allows you to keep the communication between the lens and camera body.

That means you can change the aperture settings, and also use autofocus should you wish to do so.

You can also use these individually, or stack them one on top of the other.

My Personal Recommendation!

My personal recommendation is to get Extension Tubes that have the connection between the lens and the camera body.

Although these are a little more expensive, I still think they are affordable for the most part, at around $50 - 70.

Here is my suggestion for you (although you will need to get one for your specific camera brand, these are for Canon)

Macro Lens Extension Tube Set for Canon

Macro lens Extension Set for Canon

Don’t forget if you’d like to like some help getting started on your macro photography journey, be sure to download our FREE Macro Photography Starter Guide, where I'll break down some essentials for getting started with macro, from the equipment you’ll need (less than you think and with some inexpensive options!)  tips and ideas for finding subjects  advice on choosing the right camera settings, and more! Let's get you on the road to beautiful macro photography today, shall we?! 

]]>How To Use Your Regular Lens For Macro Photography!How Long Does It Really Take to Learn Photography?PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 27 Jun 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-long-to-learn-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:64897d8d4127a951e4796eb5

If you’ve been feeling frustrated because you’ve already spent months learning about photography, but still don’t feel like you understand what you’re doing, you’ve probably wondered how long it actually takes to learn photography!

I know from personal experience that learning photography really can be overwhelming and frustrating, and it can feel like it’s just taking too 👏 darn 👏 long.

A lot of the time, we’d just love to skip the learning part, and start getting good photos from the day we pick up our camera!

Which begs the question, how long does it take to learn photography, or at least good enough that you feel confident saying you are a photographer?

That’s what we are going to look at today!

I am going to say right from the start, I don’t know exactly how long it will take you, so everything I say here is a generalisation.

But I can give you a damn good idea, based on my own personal experience, but also - and probably more importantly - from teaching the 2000+ students in my Auto to Awesome program, and from helping thousands more over the last 8 years here at Live Snap Love.

Let’s start by talking about how long it took me…

My Photography Journey….

So I first picked up a camera with the intention of learning photography back in 2007, and I actually quickly gave up, probably in 2007 or 2008, because I just couldn’t figure it out!

I had actually taken one of those Open Unversity photography courses and it was awful - it was all about refraction and circle of confusion, and really didn’t teach you HOW to take great images, more about how the camera worked. (and it was as dull as dishwater)

It really put me off photography, so it wasn’t until my son was born in 2009 that I picked up my camera, and really started to learn again. So I usually credit this as when I started to learn photography, but really, I had started a couple of years before, it was just that my camera collected dust for quite a while 😊

From this point, it took me around three years before I was taking decent images, and then maybe a further 6 months of practicing, until I could confidently get the photos I saw in my head, on demand.

So, if we don’t include the false start in 2007, it would say it took around 3 - 4 years from being a total beginner to having “learnt” photography.

Let me dive into that a little bit more for you, and how I spent those 4 years:

I spent the first two years trying to figure it out on my own, through blog posts, videos etc, and whilst I definitely picked up lots of really useful information, nothing really connected.

I always had this feeling I was missing something, because no matter how many blog posts I read, or video tutorials I watched, or how much I practised, I couldn’t always get the images I wanted. Sure, I lucked out from time to time, but there was no consistency, and I didn’t feel confident about my photos.

It was an incredibly frustrating time, so if that is where you are now, I feel for you, and I understand exactly what you are going through.

At this point, I admitted defeat, and enrolled in a few different photography courses in quick succession, determined to figure this whole photography thing out.

I definitely already knew a lot of what was in those courses, but there was so much that I didn’t know I didn’t know, so I hadn’t even known to search for them.

That is something I hear all the time from people who join us for our courses like Exposure Essentials or The Focus Fix, who are a bit more experienced - that they didn’t realise certain things, but now that they did, all their random bits of knowledge connected, and it is started to all come together.

Once you have the info though, it’s all about practice!

Because it does take a few months until you have built in the muscle memory for everything you have learnt, and can just try out different things - for example different lighting, or different focusing techniques.

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So, what about others?

As I said, I’ve had the pleasure of meeting and teaching thousands of photographers over the years, and I can tell you that this 3 year mark is consistent with people who try to go it alone. (and most of them ended up taking a few courses along the way!)

Sure, I’ve known some who have done it in two, and others who took longer, more like 4 years, but I would say that the average is around 3.

You’ll notice that I said go it alone, because it is a different timeline for those who invest in their learning right from the beginning, rather than waiting until they couldn't figure it out on their own.

They got their faster - usually around 3 - 6 months, because instead of spending months reading random information and then even more months trying to patch it together, and then trying to figure out what they missed, they skipped straight past all that and could go straight to practising, and as a result got better much more quickly.

The Trade Off Between Time and Money

When it comes to learning photography, there is a trade off between time and money. (as there is with everything in life!)

If you want to save time and get to the end result faster, have some of the hard work done for you and purchase a course.

Or if saving money is more important, save the cash and try to learn yourself, but just know that it will take you longer.

My recommendation is this: if you are short on time, struggling to get the photos you want, or it’s just important to get better photos quickly (for example so you don’t miss your child growing up, or you want to make the most of your travel photos in retirement) then take a course as it will provide you with that shortcut.

That’s because when you have all the information available to you, laid out in the order you need to learn it, with every step connecting to the last, you will be able to move you forward quicker.

Honestly - and this is just my opinion so you can take it or leave it - time is always the most important consideration!

That’s because time is a finite resource, we can never, ever get more of it, no matter what we do, so I am NOW ruthless over preserving my time. (I learnt my lesson the hard way!)

If I can spend a little money (a renewable resource) to save years of time (a finite resource) then you can bet your bottom dollar that I’m going to take it.

I created a full range of snackable programs exactly for this purpose, so if you want something that will get you from A to B in the shortest amount of time, and with the least amount of frustration, then be sure to check them out!

If saving money is more important to you, and you have all the time in the world, then that’s fine too! You'll absolutely still get there, but it will just take you that bit longer, and you may have periods of frustration where you can’t figure it out.

I can help you here too, just grab a copy of my FREE 90 Day Photography Learning Blueprint. It will give you roadmap for you to follow so at least you have something to work to!

To Sum Up…

So, a rough guide would be 3 -4 years if you go it alone, and 3- 6 months with a course, but of course, there are huge variables within that.

If you invest in your learning by taking a course and put in a few hours a week learning and practicing, you are going to be at the shorter end of that timescale!

But if only pick your camera up once a month, of course it will take you longer, even with a course - you still have to put in the time.

This is also why you cannot measure your success against anyone else's, since you may very well have taken different paths to get there!

So if you are currently jealous that someone you know is getting better quicker than you, they have maybe invested in a course and are spending more time on it than you.

Simply focus on your own journey, and on what YOU need to do to reach your goal, within the timeframe you want.

You can ALWAYS be learning!

One more thing I want to say, is that in photography, you will probably always be learning!

When you feel like you have the technical side down, so you understand your camera settings, and and are taking beautiful exposed, tack sharp, gorgeously lit images, you’ll probably want to branch out and try even more things and get even MORE advanced with your use of light and composition.

And you’ll probably start want to try out something new because it keeps things fresh and exciting - it could be a new style of photography like macro, or new subjects like architecture or street photography.

That’s what makes photography such an amazing hobby - because you will always have something new to try!

Links & Further Reading

Exposure Essentials

The Focus Fix

Sun to Shade

90 Day Photography Learning Blueprint

Photographer Case Study - Katie Lynn

Photographer Case Study - Pam & Roxy The Kitty

Photographer Case Study -Misty Martin Schuler

Photographer Case Study - Erica Heinrichs

]]>How Long Does It Really Take to Learn Photography?Do You Really Need to Calibrate Your Camera Lens? Here's the Answer!PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSGEARPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 20 Jun 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/lens-calibration5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:64894a941cacda6188b774e3

One question I got from one of my students inside our student only Facebook group recently was “Do I need to calibrate my camera lens? I keep hearing it talked about but I’ve never done it and I don’t know what to do!”

It’s such a great question, one which every single one of us will ask at some point, which is why I wanted to tackle it here on the podcast today!

I’m going to cover what lens calibration is, why you might occasionally need it and how to know you if you need to do it right now.

Plus I’ll give you a quick and dirty test you can do with your lenses, and a guide on how to actually calibrate should you need to do so.

Before we dive into the need and how, let’s rewind a little bit for any photographers and talk about what lens calibration actually is.

What Is Lens Calibration anyway?

Camera lens calibration is the process of fine-tuning the autofocus system of your camera to ensure accurate and precise focus.

Basically, if your lens needs calibration, it means there’s a slight miscommunication between the auto focus of camera and the lens, and when you calibrate, this simply corrects how ‘off’ the lens is.

Essentially you are matching up the lens to the camera’s autofocus chip so that they are both seeing the same thing.

You do this by getting into your autofocus system on your camera and adjusting it, to ensure that the lens always focuses accurately on your subject.  

Why your lens MIGHT need calibrated

To understand why there might be a problem with the auto focus, let’s start by looking at how this happens.

All cameras and lenses are manufactured to be with a certain range of accuracy.

So, for example, your camera may focus to the back ever so slightly, but it’s within an acceptable margin that is virtually unnoticable. It can also be the same with your lens - it could front or back focus ever so slightly, but be within that “tolerance” that it’s not noticeable,.

But when you put these two slightly-off items together, you end up with a bigger problem. If your camera back focuses every so slightly, and then your lens back focuses ever so slightly, when you use them together it’s enough to take the focus out of that acceptable range.

So both on their own may be fine, and the problem only happens when you put them together.

There is also the situation where the lens was shipped out without focus being in that acceptable range.

This is really unusual (but not totally unheard of) with high quality lenses because Canon and Nikon and so on have really good quality control on their lenses, but with cheaper lenses, they don’t have the same stringent quality controls so it can be more likely that these are a bit off.

The other thing to note is that over time, the miscommunication between the lens and the camera’s autofocus chip can shift and cause your focus to be off, so even if your lens was fantastically sharp and accurate when you first got it, this can go over time!

Signs that your lens needs calibration…

If you start to notice that your image looks focused in the viewfinder, but when you view the image later on the computer screen, focus seems to have landed elsewhere, then this could be a sign that your lens needs calibrated.

For example, say you are photographing a person, and you aim your focus point on the eye, but then when you view the image zoomed in, you’ll see that the focus is on shoulder instead of their eye. In other words the focus is always a little bit off, and critically, always in the same direction, in other words focus always lands a little to the front or to the back.

This is more noticeable when shooting wide open, because the depth of field is so narrow.

I should point out that a lot of the time, images are soft due to user error, not because the lens needs calibrated!

There are so many factors that go into getting a tack sharp image (and that can stop us from getting one) it could simply be that you’re not doing it right, rather than the lens being the problem. (Which is why we have whole course on focus called The Focus Fix!)

If this is the case, you’ll see that focus lands elsewhere but it’s different each time, so not always to the back (for example)

So if you are not consistently getting the sharp focus you want, it might be an idea to quickly test your lens, that way you’ll know whether you have a problem with your equipment or if it’s user error.

If you do have a problem, then you can calibrate your lens to fix it, and if you don’t, well, at least it will put your mind at rest that your equipment is fine and you simply need to learn the techniques and strategies for getting sharp focus with different subjects!

There is SO much that goes into making sure your photos are tack sharp, so do check out The Focus Fix if you are having issues - we go into everything, from camera settings, strategies, techniques and advanced guides to REALLY help you nail your focus in all situations.

So, the short and curly answer is you only need to calibrate if and when you notice that your focus is consistently off when you use a certain lens, either when you immediately get the lens, or after a couple of months or years of use. So if you always used to get sharp photos, but now you don’t, then that’s a clear sign to test your lens.

(As a side note, you won’t need to calibrate is if you have a mirrorless camera. That’s because mirrorless cameras do not use an autofocus chip - the camera’s sensor takes care of both, so there can’t be that same miscommunication that you get with a DSLR)

How to test whether your lens needs calibrated!

OK, so you’ve noticed that your focus is always a little bit off, but how do you check it?

There is a super simple check that will tell you whether you have problems, and you can do this for free with a set of batteries, or if you have around $10 to spare, you can use cheap and cheerful lens calibration tool like this one that I used.

For the batteries option, you can see exactly how to do it in this blog post I wrote a while back, or you can do it with a lens calibration tool which looks like the image below.

When using the calibration tool, you need to use a tripod, and then place the focus point on the QR code, and you should see focus land on the 0.

If focus lands BEHIND the 0, then your lens is back focusing.

If the focus lands in FRONT of the 0, then your lens in front focusing.

If the focus lands on or very near the 0, congratulations! Your lens is focusing perfectly.

How to calibrate your lens

If your lens DOES need calibrated, then you have two options available to you :

#1 - Send it in to get calibrated to your local camera shop, or send it to the manufacturer such as Canon or Nikon. This should cost somewhere between $50 - $100.

Please note you will also need to send in your camera with your lens, so you’ll be without your camera for a little while!

#2 - If you don’t mind getting into the settings of your camera and mucking about with the auto focus, then the second option is to DIY it with a lens calibration tool.

Let’s take a closer look at how to do that…

Tools needed for lens calibration.

To calibrate your camera lens, the first thing you will need is a calibration tool.

There are numerous options available, all at various price points.

Here’s some suggestions:

DSLRKIT Lens Focus Calibration Tool (this is one I have)

SpyderLensCal

JJC Calibration Tool

DIY Lens Calibration

Calibrating your lens can be done using a process called micro-adjustment, which involves making small adjustments to the focus of your lens to ensure it is properly aligned with your camera body.

Before you do anything else, grab your camera manual or get into the camera settings menu, and look for something called AF Microadjustment or similar.

Here’s what they’re called for different manufacturers:

  • Canon – AF Microadjustment

  • Nikon – AF Fine Tune

  • Sony – AF Micro Adjustment

  • Olympus – AF Focus Adjust

  • Pentax – AF Adjustment

You want to check that you have this option because not all camera models allow you to do this.

So find this first, and if you have it, take a note of where it is as this is where you are going to make your adjustments when you get to that part in the process!

You’ll get instructions with your chosen Lens Calibration Tool on how to use each one specifically, so refer to that on how to do it, but essentially you will need to:

  1. Find a room with lots of natural light and put your calibration tool on a flat, steady surface

  2. Pop your camera on a tripod (you need to ensure that you’re not moving the camera when you focus and it stays on the same spot, otherwise it won’t work. You can use a flat steady surface instead)

  3. Ensure that the camera and ruler are level with one another, exactly perpendicular and at the same height.

  4. Set your lens to the widest aperture.

  5. Focus on the area designated on your lens calibration tool and take a photo.

  6. Check where the focus has fallen - was it in front? Or behind? (It’s recommended to do this on a computer rather than on your camera’s screen!)

  7. Use your camera’s AF adjustment setting (the one that you located above!) to fine-tune your focus, before taking another test shot, moving the slider to the + or - side depending on whether the lens was front or back focusing. (You will need to check your manual to how to do this specific to your camera make and model)

  8. Repeat until focus is landing exactly where it should be.

One final thing to note - this only fixes ONE lens by matching it to the camera, so while you are there I would suggest doing it to all your lenses!

Benefits of calibrating your lens.

If your lens was way off, you should notice that you get more accurate focus, and stop getting those slightly out-of-focus photos! Yippee!!

However, if the adjustment was minor, please don’t think this is a magic pill that means all your images will be tack sharp all of the time!

Using the right focusing techniques, modes and strategies will help far more that making small micro adjustments with your lens focus.

In other words, calibrating your lens is just one little element of a whole arsenal of strategies that you need for sharp focus.

If you want to know more, do check out The Focus Fix program which covers strategies, techniques, camera settings and advanced guides to help you nail your focus like a pro!

Thanks for being here, and I’ll see you again next week!

Audrey x

Links & Further Reading….

How To Check Your Lens Focus Using Batteries!

My Lens Calibration Tool ($6!)

7 Essential Tips for Shooting with a 50mm f1.8 Lens

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]]>Do You Really Need to Calibrate Your Camera Lens? Here's the Answer!The 5 Things You'll Need Before Starting A Photography Business PHOTOGRAPHY BUSINESS TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 06 Jun 2023 11:08:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/start-a-photography-business5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:646b4d475da8515f3e2122c6

Thinking about starting a photography business but not sure what you need to do first? Then this post is going to be a goldmine of information for you!

I’m going to share with you 5 things you’ll want to have in place before you start a photography business so that you can get off on the right foot. You can always get fancier later, but these 5 areas will allow you to start to make money from your skills.

That was my goal for this post - to help you get up and running with your photography business, in the right way, ensuring that all the basics are covered.

But before we start, I wanted to quickly let you know about a product we have for you that will be incredibly helpful if you are looking to start your own photography business.

It’s our Photography Business Start Up Kit, and in it there’s a full workshop that literally walks you through a framework to help you price your products and services so that you make a profit, based on your experience, your target market and your unique area. There’s a step by step guide that walks you through a complete roadmap for starting your business, from branding to naming your business to finding clients, along with sample contracts and forms, spreadsheets and more.

Ok, let’s dive into the 5 things you’ll want to have in place when starting your photography business….

#1 - An idea of who you serve and why

The first step in any business, photography or otherwise, is first figuring out who your customer is, and why you are the best person to serve them.

Essentially you are asking yourself who is going to give you money for your services!

Although it can be tempting to think you can serve EVERYBODY, you really need to niche down, preferably to just one target market.

What you’ll find really helpful at this stage to create what is known as an Ideal Customer Avatar. An ICA is a simply a pretend person that you create in your head, who represents your IDEAL client!

So grab a sheet of paper and start thinking about your ideal customer avatar.

How old are they? Are they male or female? Do they have children? If so, how many? Do they work? If so, what as? What is their (or their family) annual income? Where do they hang out? What social media platforms are they on each day?

I know it seems like a bit of a faff to take some time out of your busy schedule to write all this down, but by doing this, you’ll have a strong basis for working out the rest of your business, because it affects everything, from the brand colours to use to how much to charge, and even to where and how to market your business!

It’s THAT important, so do take 30 minutes to figure this out.

#2 - A sound legal & financial framework

When you first start out charging for your services, you might not have everything you need (and should have!) in place to begin with, because you were working with people you know, but when you start taking on clients that you don’t know, you’ll want to have a sound legal and financial framework.

You’ll want to know the legal aspect of operating a business, and also how you are going to declare the money you earn so you can pay taxes on it.

This is boring and dull and no-one ever thinks it’s important until you get a problem customer and you don’t have a clear contract in place defining what you promised, or the tax man comes after you for tax for back dated earnings.

So although I get that you may already have done a few sessions for a spot of cash and not declared it, if you are serious about starting a business, then you absolutely need to get your legal and financial ducks in a row.

#3 - Understand how to price your products and services for profit

Ensuring that you understand how to price your services and products for PROFIT is key to actually having a business!

If you don’t actually make money then you don’t have a business, you have a hobby.

In fact, I have seen some new photographers charge the most insanely low prices, so much so, that they are actually paying their clients for allowing them to take their photos. They are literally operating at a loss, not even just breaking even!

The good news is there is a completely robust and easy way to figure out your pricing that doesn’t involve plucking figures out of thin air, asking in photography groups what other people think you should charge, or using other photographers pricing guides for “inspiration”

You want to think about how much each hour of time in your current season of photography is worth, how many hours you’ll spend on each session, and add in the other costs of doing business, such as that editing software subscription, mileage, camera depreciation and everything else that goes into running a business and providing your services.

Don’r forget it you want the full framework on how to actually price for profit, then make sure you check out that Photography Business Starter Kit I mentioned, as you’ll get our Path to Profit workshop included in that.

#4 - Processes and systems

So, if you’ve been following along with me, you know who exactly who your target market is, how much to charge them, and how you are legally going to be able to take their money and pay taxes on it.

The next step is a relatively simple one- figuring out some simple processes and systems.

These will be different depending on your photography business, but the example I’m going to give is one that everyone will need: a process on how you are going to get your beautiful photos to your clients. (I recommend SmugMug!)

Another system you will probably need is how you are going to respond to enquires - for example, will you have a website with pricing that you’ll direct people to, or will you a pricing guide, or do it all over email?

Another one would be, how are you going to get paid?

When it comes to these systems and processes, it’s worth thinking about each step of your client journey, and how you will deal with each one.

As a little side note, if you do something in your business once, have a template for it!

So if your process is to send out a pricing guide with a warm welcoming email letting them about why they should hire you, then save that email as a template so you don’t have to reinvent the wheel each time, just replace the hubcab :-)

When you start out you won’t have a lot of systems and processes, but just starting to get the bare bones of how you will actually move someone from enquiry to happy paying customer will be useful, so that you don’t panic the first time you do a paid shoot for someone other than your family.

#5 - A Marketing Plan

OK, so now we know who we want to serve, how much we’re going to charge them, a process we can follow from enquiry to photo delivery, and how we are going to get paid for it.

What’s missing?

Customers!

You need to have a way to bring customers into your orbit so that you can actually sell to them.

We can’t expect to decide we’re ready to start a photography business and immediately customers will start flocking to us and making enquiries - you have to go out and find them, and then bring them back to you.

And that’s all a marketing plan is - how you are going to let people know about your business and how they can connect with you.

Word of mouth advertising is the easiest way to get started, so asking family and friends to go out there and act as your “street marketing” team and referring their friends and family to you!

So a simple way to start your marketing efforts is by thinking what will happen if Auntie Ruth has a friend at work who is interested in having a family portrait taken, where can Auntie Ruth send them to find out more about you and see your work?

Ideally you’ll need a website (you can see how to create one here) or just a facebook page, or maybe some images in a portfolio in SmugMug so that you can show what you can do.

You are going to absolutely layer on more advanced marketing strategies as you grow your business, but word of mouth is a great way to get the ball rolling, and will allow you to get the basics down before you start getting more and more clients.

If you want to go deeper into talking about pricing, marketing, the legal side, contracts, websites and all of those things, then be sure to check out the Photography Business Start Up Kit I have for you!

Links & Further Reading

👉 Are you ready to start a photography business? Here’s how to know.

👉 How To Create A Photography Website

👉 4 Photography Pricing Mistakes You're Probably Making

👉 How She Did It: From Photography Beginner to Photography Business in 1 Year

👉 8 steps to creating a photography portfolio

👉 The PHotography Business Start Up Kit

So there you have it - the 5 foundational things you’ll want to have in place before you start taking on paying clients for your photography business!

]]>The 5 Things You'll Need Before Starting A Photography Business14 Fun And Easy 4th of July Picture IdeasPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSCHILD & LIFESTYLEAudrey AnnSun, 04 Jun 2023 20:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/4th-of-july-picture-ideas5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:644fa9d9e340d62983f64652

In need of some 4th of July picture ideas that are simple and easy to do? Then look no further!

Whether you're looking to take a classic portrait with a fourth of July feel, capture the moments of the day, or go all out and try something a little more unique, you’re going to LOVE these 12 picture ideas.

And the best part? None of these 4th July pic ideas involve any expensive props or loads of prep work (i.e thrifty but fun!) so you can get photos you love minus the overwhelm.

#1 - Red, White, and Blue Outfits For A Classic Portrait.

One of the easiest ways to add a patriotic touch to your 4th of July pictures is by taking portraits of your family wearing in red, white, and blue outfits. 

You can go all out with matching outfits or simply incorporate one or two patriotic pieces into each person’s outfit, for example, one family member could wear a red shirt, another could wear a blue skirt, and another could wear white pants. This will create a cohesive “4th of July” look for your photos without being overwhelming, or requiring you to go out and buy a whole new set of clothing.

For individual portraits, again, you can go as subtle or all out as you like - even just wearing blue jeans with a white shirt and a read headscarf can do the trick!

For portraits, try to find an interesting location that has few distractions or “clutter” - your back garden will work well, but you could also head to the local park or forest area, a open field (just make sure you ask the permission of the person that owns it!) or head to the beach like in these photos.

DIVE DEEPER:

For portrait style photos, you’ll want to try and blur out the background! This gives a really nice professional look to your portraits and is incredibly easy to do! I’ve got a free step by step guide in my (free!) Guide to Shooting in Aperture Priority Mode if you want to go download it!

#2 - Use a Flag as A Backdrop

Another classic and simple idea for 4th of July pictures is to use an American flag as a backdrop.

You could simply pin the flag onto a wall or drape it over a fence or railing, and have your subject pose in front of it.

But you don’t even need to do that n fact, just have your subject hold it behind them like in the image below and hey presto, you’re done!

This is a great option if you want to take pictures in your back garden for example, but you’re not too keen on the backdrop - the flag will take up most of the frame, blocking out any clutter or unwanted items.

But of course, why should humans have all the fun??!

You can also do this with your pets too :-)

DIVE DEEPER:

When taking portraits (of any kind, whether on the 4th of July or not!) you always want to pay attention to the LIGHT.

If you are just starting out in photography, then it can be easier to find an area with open shade, and place your subjects in the shaded area, looking out onto the light (You can read all about how to use open shade in photography here!)

Alternatively, for an extra special portrait, try heading out at the golden hour (the hour just before sunset or the hour just after sunrise) as when the sun is lower in the sky you can get amazing pictures that have that warm, buttery golden light.

#3 - Create your own DIY 4th of July Backdrop

If you are feeling a little more crafty, and have a little more time on your hands, hen you can also create a themed backdrop.

I particularly loved this DIY American Flag Backdrop from The Crazy Craft Lady, or something similar with a DIY Streamer Backdrop (on the right) from Oh How Charming.

I’m sure that if you head on over to Pinterest and search for DIY Backdrops for 4th of July you’ll find loads more examples, so don’t feel you have to just use these ones!

Plus it doesn’t have to be a backdrop - you could create a wall of red, white and blue balloons, or cut out red, white and blue stars and stick them to the wall, or create your own bunting or garland.

Again, anything goes here, and as long as you stick to a white, blue and red colour theme, your 4th of July pictures will have that festive feel.

DIVE DEEPER:

Just remember that when using a backdrop, you are best to have some space between your subject and the backdrop, so that you can blur out the background a little bit. (Honestly, it will look a thousand times more professional that if you have your subject’s close up against it!)

Check out this step by step guide on how to take studio style portraits at home which will help you get the most out of those special backdrops!

#4 - Family Picnic or BBQ.

Of course, you don’t need to have posed shots for your 4th of July pics - a family picnic or BBQ is a classic 4th of July activity, and it also makes for a great opportunity to get some more candid photos of your family enjoying the festivities!

In order to spice up these photos, you can add in some patriotic props like flags or hats for added flair.

For these types of photos, you don’t ask anything to pose or do anything for the camera, simply keep snapping away as the day unfolds.

DIVE DEEPER:

When it comes to photographing candid family photos, I find that I use my 35mm or 50mm lens the most - the 35mm especially helps give a really inclusive feel to the photos, like you could step into the frame and take part in the action!

It’s also wide enough that you can capture the surrounding too, which again all helps with getting that 4th of July feel, just like in the image below.

Check out these 12 LIfestyle photography Tips which will help you take better candid and documentary photos!

#5 - Sparklers

OK, my eyes need a teeny tiny little break from seeing red, white and blue, so I’m going to move on to some other ideas for photos you might want to take on the 4th of July.

A really fun tradition for 4th of July celebrations are the fireworks and sparklers.

You can incorporate sparklers into your photos simply by having your family hold sparklers out in front of them, but again, you can add in little patriotic touches, or stick to a white, blue and red colour scheme to give your photos that 4th of July feel. (in the example on the left, you can see this isn’t “overdone” - a blue t-shirt and red nail varnish can make all the difference!)

When photographing sparklers, you want 2 things - to be shooting when it’s dark, and you really, really REALLY want to be shooting in manual mode so you can get the correct exposure!

DIVE DEEPER:

You can read my step by step guide on how to shoot in manual mode step by step for more advice (and grab a free manual mode cheat sheetwhile you’re there!)

Also check out this guide from The Blonde Abroad on How to Take Sparkler Photos.

#6 - Patriotic Props.

The easiest way to add some extra flair to your 4th of July photos is with patriotic props and accessories.

Think mini American flags, fun glasses, stars and stripe balloons, hats, red and white and blue table confetti and more!

Be sure to get in close and capture all those little details for fun 4th of July photos!

DIVE DEEPER: 7 Tips For Capturing The Details in Lifestyle Photography

#7 - Set up a Photo Booth

If you’re having friends round for a bit of a get together, then you might want to set up a photo booth!

Don’t worry, you don’t need an actual booth, all you need to do is set up a scene or backdrop where your guests can go to take their own pictures. (You can go back to #3 on this list for some ideas for backdrops!)

Its also a good idea to add in some props for more fun - as an example, these 4th of July props on sticks are fun and you can get these really cheaply from Amazon (these are around $7 so hardly bank breaking!)

#8 - Capture the Firework Displays

Find a good location that you can see the fireworks from, but that ideally has some foreground interest such as buildings or trees.

As you’ll need to use a very slow shutter speed when photographing fireworks, in order to avoid camera shake and increase the likelihood of getting a sharp, crisp photo, this is one of those occasions when you really need to use a tripod!

Plus, with slow shutter speeds even just touching the camera can result in blur, I also suggest that you use a remote shutter.

Then set your aperture at around F8, shutter speed at around 5 seconds, and your ISO at the lowest setting for correct exposure - and off you go!

#9 - Use A Flag as A Prop

A great idea for your 4th of july pictures is simply to incorporate the flag into your pictures, either by having your subject hold it, or by taking a picture just of the flag itself.

The first way to do it is to use a wide angle lens so that you capture the subject with the flag, and also lots of the environment too! This is a great idea if you have a stunning location that you want to show off. (A 35mm or 50mm lens is ideal for this!)

Of course, you can get in closer and go for a more traditional portrait style shot showing the head and shoulders like in the image below.

A great lens for this is the 85mm (you can read why it is one of my favourite lenses for child photography here!)

Finally, you can photograph the flag on it’s own (no person involved!)

A great way to do this is to incorporate backlight - hang your flag from a tree, or fix it into the ground with light coming in from behind. You’ll definitely want the sun to be lower in the sky for this one, so shooting at the golden hour (the hour just after sunrise or the hour just before sundown) is ideal.

DIVE DEEPER: Although I love shooting with back light, it can be tricky to get right, especially with exposure and focus, so check out this step by step guide to shooting with backlight.

#10 Red, White & Blue Food

Just that whole red, white and blue color scheme can add that 4th of July feel to your photos, and a really easy way to incorporate that into your photos is with food!

Think cakes, cupcakes, bowls of blueberries and strawberries with whipped cream, or watermelon and blackberries….

(Blue food is particularly hard to come by, so sometimes cakes are easier since you can use a bit of food colouring to create the blue!)

#11 Statue of Liberty Crown

How cute is this Statue of Liberty crown?!

It’s definitely something a little bit different (especially if you are pining for a different colour than red, white or blue!) and looks like it’s really easy to make

Get the full instructions and a free printable from Paging Supermom.

#12 Confetti

There’s 2 different ways you can use confetti for a 4th of July theme photoshoot - you can either use a confetti “bomb” like in the image below, OR you can have your subject hold the confetti in their hands and blow on it, out towards you as the photographer.

DIVE DEEPER:

Whichever version you go for, try to make sure that you use a fast enough shutter speed to capture the motion so you don’t have motion blur on your subject (it’s fine to have some on the confetti, but not too much!)

#13 Chalk Background

For this idea, you basically create an image with chalk (or spray chalk if you have it) on the ground and then ask your subject to lie down so you can photograph them from above.

It can be as simple or as complex as you like - from a child “holding” some red, white and blue balloons you paint on, a full fireworks and sparklers scene like this one from 5 minutes for Mom!

#14 - Add in some bubbles

My son spent many a happy hour chasing bubbles in the back garden, so if you are finding it hards to get younger kids involved, add in a few bubbles!

RELATED POST: 5 TIPS FOR GETTING JOYFUL IMAGES OF CHILDREN

I hope you got plenty 4th of July picture ideas from this list!

If you need any help, just leave a comment below, and I’ll be along to help. Finally, be sure to share your 4th of July pictures on Instagram with the #livesnaplove hashtag so I can see them!

]]>14 Fun And Easy 4th of July Picture IdeasZoom vs Prime Lenses - Which One Is Right For You?PODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 30 May 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/zoom-vs-prime-lenses5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6465deaa81933469f12ab197

Today we are going to be discussing lenses, specifically zoom vs prime lenses and how to choose which one is right for you!

One of the main benefits of owning a DSLR or mirrorless camera is that you have the ability to change lenses to suit what type of photography you do, what your subject is, where you are and what you want the scene to look like.

Which means when you are ready to progress beyond the kit lens, and you start to look to add a new lens to your collection, you will undoubtedly start to ask yourself: should I buy a zoom lens or a prime lens?

It's a very difficult question to answer because there are a lot of factors that you need to take into consideration! Your preferred shooting style, your available budget, what your main subjects are going to be, plus where you're going to be shooting are all factors you’ll want to take into account when deciding which one is going to be best for you.

Which is why I'm not going to be able to give you a blanket answer as to whether to get a zoom or a prime! (sorry!)

But what I will aim to do here today is to give you some things to think about when you are comparing the two so that you can choose the right one for YOU.

Want to keep this for later? Pin it!

What’s the difference between a zoom lens and a prime lens?

So let's kick off by looking at the main difference between zoom lenses and prime lenses.

  1. Focal Lengths

Zoom lenses are the ones that pretty much everyone is familiar with because they are found on all levels of cameras (and they're sold as the kit lens to your DSLR)

Zoom lenses have a range of multiple focal lengths in one lens.

All you need to do is turn the zoom ring on the barrel of your lens, and then you can zoom in or out - meaning that you can fill more or less off the screen with your subject just by turning the ring on your camera, rather than having to physically move closer or further back from your subject.

Prime lenses on the other hand, only have ONE fixed focal length.

That means if you want to have your subject fill more of the frame, then you need to physically get up and walk closer to your subject. If you want your subject to fill less of the frame, then you need to physically move further back!

So instead of having that range of focal lengths in one lens like you do with the zoom lens, you get one fixed focal length and that’s your lot.

2. MAXIMUM APERTURE

There is another difference when it comes to zooms and prime lenses and that is the maximum aperture of the lens.

(The maximum aperture means how wide your aperture can go!)

A really wide aperture lets more light into your camera, and helps give you more blurry backgrounds because you’ll get a very shallow depth of field.

A prime lens will generally open up to a nice wide maximum aperture, in other words, it gives you really low f numbers, for example, f 1.2, f 1.4 or f 1.8.

These kind of aperture numbers can be fantastic for letting in more light and for creating fabulous background blur.

Zooms, on the other hand, tend not to have such large maximum apertures, so they tend to sit around the f 2.8 to f 5.6 mark (the actual number depends on the lens)

But just to make things even more confusing, you get TWO different types of maximum aperture on a zoom lens.

The first is a variable aperture zoom.

What this means is that the maximum aperture changes as you zoom in or out.

For example, if you have a zoom lens that has a maximum aperture range of f3.6 to f5.6, then when you are zoomed out, you'll be able to shoot with a maximum aperture of f3.6, but when you are zoomed in, that reduces to f 5.6.

You also get fixed aperture zoom lenses.

These are usually f4.0 or f2.8, which means that you can stay at that aperture all throughout the focal range. So it doesn't matter whether you're zoomed in or zoomed out, you can still use that maximum aperture of the lens.

Before we start comparing zooms vs primes…

Now that we have that main differences between zooms versus primes, let's start looking at the advantages and disadvantages of each type.

But before I do that, I want to add in a little caveat!

Everything I say here is going to be a generalization of these lenses and I want to make sure that you take into account the quality of lenses to make sure that you're actually comparing like for like!

So for example, if I say that prime lenses are generally sharper than zooms, I mean, compared to a similar zoom of its class.

You can't reasonably compare a top of the line, $2,000 zoom with a bottom end, $50 prime lenses and then expect that the primes lens is going to be sharper!

By the way, if you want to see some example photos taken with different focal lengths, and get a guide to which focal length is best for different types of images, be sure to download my FREE Which Lens Kickstarter Guide, and you’ll get all that in one handy dandy PDF.

Advantages of a Prime Lens

Let's look at a prime lens first and see why you might want to choose one.

#1 - PRIME LENSES ARE MORE LIGHTWEIGHT

So generally speaking, primes are smaller, they're lighter, you can throw them in your camera bag more easily and they don't have a lot of weight when walking around. This does help make them a little bit easier for things like traveling and so on.

#2 - PRIME LENSES ARE SHARPER THAN ZOOMS

Now I'm not going to get into the actual makeup of a lens because I couldn’t care less what the inside of my lens looks like, only how it performs:-)

But generally speaking, because zooms have to have so much more going on inside of them to fit all those different focal lengths, they are less sharp than a comparable prime lens.

#3 - PRIME LENSES GIVE BETTER BOKEH

The bokeh that you get with a prime lens is usually much softer and smoother than with a zoom lens.

Again, that's just to do with the simplicity of a prime lens compared with the relative complexity of the internal workings of a zoom lens.

#4 - PRIMES GIVE YOU WIDER MAXIMUM APERTURES

That means that you can work with a very shallow depth of field, plus a wider aperture can be really useful in low light situations.

That’s because having a larger maximum aperture allows you to use faster shutter speeds (because you can let more light in via your aperture) which in turn allows you to use a faster shutter speed. And of course, they can also allow you to use a lower ISO number, which in turn helps with grain!

#4 - PRIMES ARE LESS EXPENSIVE THAN ZOOMS!

The other benefit of a prime lens is that they're usually less expensive than zooms. But major caveat here, you will need several to cover the same focal range of zoom!

For example, if I wanted the focal lengths of 24-70 zoom lens in primes, I would probably buy a 35mm, a 50mm and an 85mm to give me roughly that same range. By the time you've purchased all three, it will work out as the same value as the comparable zooms!

#5 - IF YOU HAVE A RANGE OF PRIME LENSES, YOU HAVE A BACK UP!

If you have a range of prime lenses, rather than just one zoom lens, you do have a backup one should one need to go away for repair.

So if you drop a lens and smash it, you've got another one sitting there in your bag that you can use. That's probably only of importance to you If you are a wedding or event photographer, but something to consider!

#6 - PRIME LENSES CAN FEEL MORE IMMERSIVE

Some photographers say that prime lenses allow them to get more creative, as they have to move with their feet and therefore think more about the shot.

I am one of those people!

I do believe that a prime lens makes me think more about where I have to be to get into the perfect position, and I find it helpful not have to think about zooming!

However, you are going to get other people who dislike that aspect, so this one is more down to your personal choice rather than being an advantage or a disadvantage.

Disadvantages of a Prime Lens

Let's look at the disadvantages now because there is some of them as well!

#1 - IT CAN BE HARDER TO FRAME YOUR IMAGES

So one of the main disadvantages of a prime lens is that it can be harder to frame your images because you have to physically love yourself into position in order to get the crop and the positioning of your subject in the frame that you want.

#2 - YOU MAY HAVE TO SHOOT WIDER AND CROP IN

When you have a prime you'll have to physically move closer or further back and that means that you may sometimes have to shoot wider than you wanted and then crop in and that does mean that you'll have less pixels in your image. Now, I have to say that given the amount of megapixels that we get in today's camera, this is not usually a deal breaker, but it is something to consider.

#3 - YOU MAY HAVE TO CHANGE LENSES MORE OFTEN

You may also have to change lenses for different focal lengths during any one type of session or shoot, for example to go from wide angle prime for a group portrait, to a telephoto prime for a portrait.

#4 - YOU’LL PROBABLY WANT MORE THAN ONE PRIME

This depends on what type of photography you do but in many cases you're going to need to purchase several lenses to cover a good focal range.

Advantages of a Zoom Lens

Let's do exactly the same thing, but this time with zoom lenses. The biggest advantage of a zoom lens is…

#1 - SHEER VERSATILITY!

You only need one lens to get multiple focal lengths, which means you can take a range of different images or shoot different subjects with just one lens.

#2 - YOU CAN FRAME YOUR SHOTS CORRECTLY WITHOUT MOVING

The second advantage is that they can allow you to frame more of your shots correctly first time because you can change your focal length before a moment is missed.

#3 - YOU WON’T NEED TO CHANGE LENSES SO OFTEN

Again, you don't need to change lenses so often because you've got everything in one lens! And depending on what you're photographing, you'll probably just need to take one lens out with you.

Disadvantages of a Zoom lens

Now let’s super quickly run through the disadvantages:

#1 - THEY’RE BIGGER AND HEAVIER THAN PRIMES

And if you're using a very heavy zoom, for example the 70 to 200. you can get arm fatigue if you're using them for any length of time! So most people will use a tripod for a heavy zoom lens.

So sometimes the versatility of having all the focal lengths in one lens is actually a disadvantage because they're heavy enough that you can't really walk around with them.

#2 - SMALLER MAXIMUM APERTURES & NOT AS SHARP AS ZOOM LENSES

I’m not going to elaborate of this too much since we’ve covered it already when talking about primes, but just know that zoom lenses don’t have as wide a maximum aperture as prime lenses, and they are generally not considered to be as sharp.

Choosing the right lens for your photography style

So as you can see there are reasons why you should get a prime, and there are reasons why you should get a zoom!

It really is going to depend on your specific circumstance, what you're photographing and what your limitations are.

Firstly, think about your ability to move around your chosen subject, and whether you need to get closer or further back without moving.

For example, say you photograph a baseball game and you can't really leave your seat. You're going to want to get closer or further back from the action so you’ll either have to keep switching lenses which is completely unpractical, so a zoom lens would be a much better bet.

But if you are a portrait photographer who can easily move in and further back from your subject, and change lenses during a shoot when required, prime lenses might be better for you. (Plus you’ll get that nice wide aperture and creamy background blur!)

Secondly, think about the light where you commonly photograph.

So if you shoot a lot indoors, or work a lot in relatively low light, then you're definitely going to want a primes lens as you're going to get that wider maximum aperture, which lets more light into the camera.

If you mainly shoot outdoors during the day, then it’s not so much of a factor for you!

And the final thing to consider, as always, is your budget.

Let's be honest, if we had all the money in the world, we would probably go for a mixture of primes and zooms, and have them cover every focal length.

But unless you’re Bill Gates, you’re going to have to compromise somewhere. In which case, just go for the type that suits you MOST of the time.

One more thing to consider about your budget is that it can be easier to spread the cost out by buying primes. For example, I started with a 50mm only, added on an 85mm a year later, and then a 35mm 2 years after that, so my bank balance didn’t take a hit all at once (and my husband was none the wiser 😉😉)

Phew! We covered a LOT today! Who knew there was so much to consider just between zooms vs primes!!

As always, if you have any questions you can leave them below, and I’ll see you again, same time, same place, next week for more photography goodness.

LINKS TO FURTHER RESOURCES

The Ultimate Guide to Camera Lenses

Lenses for Child Photography: My 3 Must Have Lenses

35mm vs 50mm

]]>Zoom vs Prime Lenses - Which One Is Right For You?The 5 Types of Metering Modes Explained (and when to use each one!)PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 23 May 2023 08:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/types-of-metering-modes5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:64591d584a05b95e83aaaeb1

Today we’re going to look at the main types of metering modes on your camera, and how to choose the right one for the job!

Believe it or not, the metering mode you use is actually incredibly important, because this determines how your camera looks at the scene, and decides what exposure reading to give you!

Get it right, and you’ll get an image that is perfectly exposed, in other words, not too dark and not too light (but juuuuust right)

However, with so many different types of metering available, it can be challenging to know which one to use in different situations, for sure.

Most cameras today will have at least 3 in-camera metering modes, and these are called Evaluative (which is called Matrix Metering on a Nikon) Spot Metering, and Centre Weighted.

Some cameras will have more, such as partial metering, or highlight weighted metering too. These are less common, but don’t panic, we’ll cover them all in this guide!

Now before we dive into each one, I want to rewind a little bit, and talk a little bit about what metering actually is, so you understand exactly why choosing the right metering mode is so darn crucial.

What is Metering in Photography?

Metering is simply how our camera assesses the amount of light in the scene, so it can set the correct exposure, or if you shoot in manual mode, tell you where the correct exposure is.

If you shoot in full AUTO mode, the in-camera metering system looks at the mount of light in the scene, and then combines the aperture, shutter speed and ISO values to give you the correct exposure (in theory at least!)

(As a little side note, you can’t change the metering mode when you use AUTO mode, which is yet another reason to move away from AUTO!)

If you shoot in any of the semi automatic modes such as Aperture Priority mode, then the same thing happens, except you’re choosing one or two of the settings yourself, and the camera takes up the slack and chooses the remainder.

Aaaand if you shoot in manual mode, you will still use your in-camera meter to assess the exposure, but this time you get to determine the aperture, shutter speed and ISO yourself. (a.k.a the best mode!)

But whatever mode you shoot in, knowing how the various metering modes work will help you get your exposure right first time, so you don’t have to continually look at your preview screen, and add or subtract exposure until you get it right.

As we said at the beginning, there are several different types of metering available, each with its own strengths and weaknesses, so let’s have a closer look at those 5 types of metering modes I mentioned, starting with Evaluative / Matrix Metering.  

Evaluative (Canon) / Matrix Metering (Nikon)

Evaluative metering, also known as matrix metering, is the default setting on most cameras.

This mode divides the scene into multiple zones, and then combines the readings from each zone to calculate the final exposure.

It’s a bit like AUTO for metering - it’s simply taking a reading from every single part of the scene, and trying to give you a median (i.e middle ground) exposure.

(In this image below, the area shaded in yellow shows the area of the scene your camera is looking at when assessing the scene for exposure)

Just as with shooting in AUTO mode, this can sometimes be great, because in scenes where the light is fairly even and consistent, that “middle ground” exposure will be absolutely perfect.

And for you as the photographer, this can be really easy, because the camera is making all the decisions for you.

But just as when shooting in AUTO mode, the camera will also frequently get the exposure completely wrong in this mode!

In tricky light, or anywhere where the light isn’t consistent and even, you aren’t likely to get the correct exposure in this mode, since not all scenes will "even out" .

For example if you had really bright light behind your subject, the camera will pretty much always end up giving you an underexposed image, because it tries to dampen down all that bright light, which is definitely NOT what we want!

Remember, your camera is just a piece of equipment and can't read and see light in the same way we do, all it can do is make an educated guess, so in this situation, it’s no freaking wonder it gets it wrong - it can only ever try to get that middle ground, nothing more.

So although matrix metering can be a good all-rounder and is probably the easiest to use, especially if you’re just starting out, it really doesn’t give you the control you need.

Let’s move onto the next type of metering mode, and that is:

Centre-Weighted (Canon & Nikon)

In this mode, the camera still takes information from the whole frame, just as with matrix metering, but this time it gives more weight to the information it gets from the centre of the frame.

Again, you can see the area this exposes for shaded in yellow, so the entire frame, with greater consideration given to the centre of the frame.

Essentially, in this mode, the camera is assuming that the subject is slap bang in the centre of the frame, so it’s giving more consideration to that area, because it’s guessing that’s where your subject is.

Now it’s probably easier to predict how the camera will react using this mode (rather than evaluative) but the area it meters for is still quite large.

So whilst it will give a better result in some situations - usually portraits or when you have a good even mix of tones throughout the frame - it's not the ideal mode.

This is because for many photos we take - guess what! Our subjects’ aren’t positioned slap bang in the centre of the frame! That means it will probably give you an incorrect meter reading for what you’re actually trying to photograph.

It’s also still not the best mode for scenes that has a lot of contrast or uneven lighting.

Let’s move on now to the final one of the three main metering modes, and that is:

Spot Metering (Canon and Nikon)

Spot Metering does exactly what you would expect it to from the name; it tells the camera to meter from a very small specific spot of the frame, rather than the whole scene.

Therefore instead of judging exposure based on the entire scene, and trying to balance it out, it just focuses it’s metering on a very small area (around 3% of the frame)

Again, you guessed it, the area shaded in yellow shows the area of the scene your camera is looking at when assessing the scene for exposure in spot.

This is useful when you want to ensure that a particular area of the image is properly exposed, such as a person's face or a bright object in a dark scene.

By using a really small area of the scene to meter from, this helps the camera give you the correct exposure because you are telling the camera EXACTLY the area that you want to expose for.

(Just like when you have to list out for your kids exactly what you to do when you tell them to tidy your room, or they just fling a duvet over their dirty clothes and consider it done)

Because we’ve been super specific, it’s the most precise, and therefore gives you the most control over the exposure of your image.

And because of the metering is more accurate from the start, you will have less “chimping” and adjusting to get the correct exposure.  

Righto, that’s the 3 main modes but there is another couple that some models may have:

Partial Metering

In some camera models you may also have a PARTIAL metering mode (or you may have this but not SPOT metering)

This works in a similar way as SPOT metering, but the area of the scene it meters from is larger - around 10- 15%.

So, if you find you don't have SPOT, you can use this instead as it works in the same way.

Highlight Weighted Metering

In some Nikon cameras, you may have “Highlight Weighted Metering”

In this mode the camera gathers information from the whole of the scene (just as it does with evaluative / matrix metering) but the greatest consideration is given for the highlights in the image.

In other words, this metering mode tries to “save” the highlights, and make sure you don’t clip them.

This might be useful in situations where the highlights are the most important element in the frame and you don’t have the time or inclination to use spot metering.

So, which metering mode should you use?

When you are starting out, you’ll probably want to stick with evaluative / matrix metering – it’s a good all rounder and in evenly lit scenes it will work reasonably well.

However, when you get more experience - and start experimenting with more challenging light - you will find it easier to move onto Spot Metering as this will give you a more accurate “reading” and therefore help you get your settings right quickly.

Although this may be more difficult to use to begin with, just until you get the hang of it, the upside is once you understand how to use on different subjects, you won’t need to make any big exposure changes, so it can be quicker to get your exposure right first time! Ding ding!

However, you do need to be shooting in manual mode for this mode - trying to use spot metering with aperture priority mode will drive you up the wall because your exposure will keep changing every 10 seconds 🤬

(Psst! You might also want to download my FREE manual settings cheat sheet - this will help you know exactly what settings you should be using when!)

MATRIX / evaluative:

  • Scenes that are evenly lit, and there’s no big difference in tones throughout the scene

  • When using flash

  • Macro Photography (although sometimes the other modes will work better!)

CENTER-WEIGHTED:

  • Anytime the subject is in the centre of the frame (such as portraits)

SPOT metering:

  • Anywhere where the scene is not evenly lit, such as

  • Backlit images

  • Taking a Silhouette photo

  • Snowy scenes

  • Dark scenes

  • Concerts and stage performances

  • Scenes where your subject is not the largest element in the frame

  • Any scene where there is high contrast

PARTIAL metering:

  • If you don’t have spot metering available

HIGHLIGHT WEIGHTED METERING:

  • Concerts or other stage performances

  • Times when spot metering is unavailable (or not the best option) and the highlights are the most important element in the frame

So you can see that SPOT metering is the most useful in the majority of situations, which is why it’s the one I use most often (and I pretty much never move out of!)

As an example, this image below would be best taken with spot metering, so that we can get the scene to look exactly the way we want it to :-)

Links & Further Reading

How to Shoot in Manual Mode

FREE manual settings cheat sheet

Choosing Your Settings in Manual Mode

There you go - all the of main types of metering modes explained, and when to use each one!

]]>The 5 Types of Metering Modes Explained (and when to use each one!)15 Fun Summer Photoshoot Ideas For Kids & FamiliesPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSCHILD & LIFESTYLEAudrey AnnThu, 18 May 2023 13:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/summer-photoshoot-ideas5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:644f76205c662603885317e5

With summer nearly upon us (yay!) today I want to share with you some summer photoshoot ideas that will help you capture the spirit of the season with your camera.

There are several ways you can infuse a bit of summery magic into your photos, from something as simple as including summer related “props” in the frame, or choosing a location that automatically make us think of summer.

Scroll on down to read through this list of summer photoshoot ideas that will make your photos scream SUMMER!

#1 - With Pool Inflatables

If you are lucky enough to have a pool, or be going somewhere with one, then a bright, summery inflatable will both look fantastic in your summer photos, and be super fun for the kids to play with!

Anything goes here, but I would recommend that you think of the colours you want to have in your photos so that you have a cohesive look, but bright colours usually work well, and red in particular will really pop against the blue water of the pool.

I love these Watermelon, Lemon, Orange and Lime Inflatables for kids, but if you want to go all Taylor Swift, you could grab these Unicorn & Flamingo Pool Inflatables instead, which are a little bit different.

#2 - Beach Silhouette

Instead of going during the day, head to the beach for the golden hour, and wait until the sun is just meeting the horizon.

Then place your subjects in front of the sky, so that you as the photographer are shooting into the light. You’ll need to be shooting in full manual mode for this one, as you’ll need to expose for the sky, not your subjects!

One crucial tip here - you need to have your subject doing something, like jumping in the air with their arms outstretched, or standing with their legs apart and holding hands. If they stand with their arms and legs together, you’ll get one uniform black blob instead of the awesome silhouette you are going for!

Set your aperture to somewhere between F2.8 and F5.6 depending on the light, and choose a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the motion of your subject. (Your ISO will just be whatever is needed to balance the exposure) and off you go!

(Need a camera settings cheat sheet to help with your aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings? Grab one for free here!)

RELATED POST: How to Get A Silhouette Photo

#3 - Cute Goggles / Sunglasses

A pair of fun goggles can be another great prop for your summer photos!

These pink Bling 20 Girls Googles are uber cute for girls, but again, think of your child and what swimsuit they are likely to be wearing, so you can co-ordinate :-)

And these Batman Googles for boys look fun, but even a scuba set can look great, so they don’t have to be quirky if that’s not what your kids are into.

For older kids and adults, nothing beats a pair of cool sunglasses!

RELATED POST: 8 Tips for Shooting At The Beach

#4 - Watermelon

This is a summer photo prop that you can eat, which makes in a win-win situation in my book.

Watermelon just screams summer holidays to me (maybe it was because I first tried watermelon on my holidays to Spain as a kid!) and the colours are so vibrant that it’s fun to include it in your photos.

You can plan a whole summer photoshoot around a watermelon theme, or just photograph the kids eating a great big slice of watermelon.

(Don’t have kids? Just photograph the watermelon on it’s own - there are loads of ways to go with this one)

Try to use contrasting colours to get even more punch with your photos!

RELATED POST: HOW TO USE CONTRASTING COLOR TO ADD PUNCH TO YOUR PHOTOS!

#5 Slip n Side / Sprinkler

One of the BEST investments for summer was our water slip n slide for the back garden - it was not only incredibly fun for both kids and adults, I got so many great photos from it too!

Of course, you don’t even need to buy that - a water hose to spray the kids as they run around the garden or let them play with the sprinkler can all give you that summer feeling.

A few tips for you: use backlight to really get the water spray to show up, be sure to use a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion (around 1/600 or more!) and use a longer length lens so you can stay dry!

RELATED POST: 5 TIPS FOR FOR SHARP PHOTOS

#6 - Field of Summer Flowers

Fields filled with summer wildflowers are a fantastic place to take your summer themed photos! Sunflower and bluebell fields give particularly beautiful colours and will add extra pop to your photos.

Although you can take photos there at any time, the best time will be around the golden hour, as that’s when you’ll get that warm buttery tones that work beautifully with backlight.

You can also play with getting haze and sun flares in your image, which both add to that hazy dreamy summery feeling!

RELATED POST: STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO USING BACKLIGHT

No field nearby? Then grab a bunch of flowers from the local market and use them as a prop.

#7 - Full Sunshine

This one is totally free, but guaranteed to make your summer photo shine!

There’s loads of way to use the sun in your summer images - you can use the bright, harsh sun of midday for photos that have deep, highly saturated colours which add to the fun summer vibe, or the low light of golden hour for feelings of warm, hazy, lazy summer afternoons.

Heck, you can even create a sunburst with it!

If you don’t like using full sun, then you can also search out areas of open shade, which can be a lot easier to work with, especially if you are just starting out.

RELATED POST: HOW TO USE OPEN SHADE IN PHOTOGRAPHY

#8 - Toasting Marshmallows

Another great summertime activity is toasting marshmallows, and you can get some great shots of of friends and family, around the campfire, toasting their marshmallows.

Get a wide angle shot of the whole scene, then of each individual person, get in close and take a photo of the fire itself, and a close up of your toasty marshmallow so you capture the whole story for a fabulous summer photo shoot!

RELATED POST: HOW TO TAKE PICTURES AROUND THE CAMPFIRE

#9 Umbrella / Gumboots

I know we often think of sun when it comes to summer, but (living in Scotland) I also think of those wonderfully refreshing summer showers.

It can be great to get out there in a summer shower, and two props that can really make a difference to your photos is a bright, colourful umbrella like this rainbow umbrella (or a clear, see through one can be good too) a pair of bright summer gumboots in any colour!

Get the kids to splash about in the rain and puddles, and don’t forget to use a fast shutter speed to capture the water droplets and avoid motion blur.

#10 - Beach Towels / Picnic Blankets

If you’re anything like me, you bought a couple of beach towels 10 years ago, and now you can barely see the pattern, there’s bits of thread hanging off them everywhere, and there is a distinct hint of grey about them after washing them 100 times!

If that’s you, then you might want to grab a couple of news ones as again, these can add colour, texture and interest to your summer photos. You can use them as a backdrop by shooting down on your subject as they lie on them, or you can wrap them around your subject.

These toddler ones come in a variety of different patterns (I want the flamingo ones!!) but again, think of the vibe you are going for with your photos and choose one that suits you!

Another great purchase around the same theme is a cute picnic blanket - you can have your subjects sitting on the blanket for a great family photo.

#11 -Bubbles

My son spent many a happy hour chasing bubbles in the back garden, so much so, that I got fed up blowing them and invested $20 in a bubble machine!

These always make me think of lazy late summer afternoons, sipping my umbrella accessorised drink while the kids chased bubbles on the lawn.

RELATED POST: 5 TIPS FOR GETTING JOYFUL IMAGES OF CHILDREN

#12 -Sweet Treats

Summer wouldn’t be summer without some kind of frozen treat - popsicles, ice-cream cones or ice lollies all give you that happy summer vibe, and are fun and colourful to include in your photos!

#13 - At the Beach

Although just getting down there on the shore is great, in order to give you photos a bit more interest, look out for areas that have elements that you can use to get more interesting compositions.

A few examples would be wooden walkways, sand dunes, areas with coloured beach huts, jetties and piers, rocks and so on.

These all give you places for your subjects to sit, or use as leading lines or foreground interest.

Failing that, putting your subject in a pop of colour can really help them stand out and add a summery vibe to your photos!

RELATED POST: HOW TO TAKE GREAT PICTURES AT THE BEACH

#14 - Drink Umbrellas

Sunny days also equals something else in our household - alcohol. And plenty of it.

Hubby’s drink of choice is a beer, whereas I love anything with an umbrella, which is the inspiration for this summer photo prop idea: a pack of drink umbrellas.

But again, you could just simply cut up some fruit and use that to decorate the glass (or like me, do both!) for a cute drink accessory.

#15 - Summer Activities

Think roller skating, surfing, sand-boarding, hikes - whatever summer activities you do together as a family are a great excuse for a photo shoot!

KEEP ON READING

How to Take Great Photos At The Beach

Your Reading List for Better Summer Photos

What Photography Equipment to Pack for Your Vacation

A step by step guide to creating starbursts.

7 Essential Tips for Shooting with A 50mm F1.8 Lens

There you have it - 15 ideas for a summer photoshoot that will help you bottle up summer! Want more ideas? Download our free checklist below!


]]>15 Fun Summer Photoshoot Ideas For Kids & Families6 Easy Ways To Get Rid of Glasses Glare in PhotosPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 16 May 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/get-rid-of-glasses-glare-in-photos5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:62b4551a4e4b4c241d0b5eeb

Do you struggle taking pictures of people wearing glasses, because when you do, you always seem get the dreaded “glasses glare”?

Then this is for you!

There are two main strategies for taking pictures of people with glasses - the first is to try to first avoid getting glare in the glasses in the first place, and if that fails, the second strategy is to fall back to removing the glare in editing.

I don’t know about you, but I don’t have time to studiously remove glasses glare in editing, especially if there is more than one image (for example if you’ve taken multiple photos for a family session, or a member of your family wears them so it’s a constant occurrence) so I always first look for ways to avoid getting glasses glare in the first place.This is by far the easiest option, not to mention the least time-consuming!

But, let’s face it, we won’t get it right 100% of the time, which it’s always useful to have the sneaky back-door option of removing it in Photoshop :-)

So today, I’m going to share some tips and tricks with you to help you avoid glasses glare in pictures the first place, along with how you can get rid of those pesky reflections in Photoshop.

1 - Watch your angle to avoid the glare

The main thing to bear in mind when it comes to avoiding glasses glare in photos is the LIGHT.

Light will always reflect off shiny surfaces, and of course, that’s exactly what glasses are - big shiny surfaces ripe for getting reflections and glare.

That’s why with all our in-camera only solutions, it’s all about paying attention the light, and how it hitting our subject, so the first (and most important thing) to keep in mind is the angle of your subject to the light.

When photographing people, we can use front light, especially in beauty portraits, or 45 or 90 degree light, which gives a bit of shadow in to add depth and dimension, but also great light on our subject.

Regardless of whether we use front or side light, as photographers we are always taught to look for the catchlights, because we always want to see some in our subject’s eyes!

You can see catchlights in the eyes below:

Unfortunately, when someone is wearing glasses, it’s the GLASS that picks up the light instead of the eyes, so instead of gorgeous sparkly eyes that are full of light and life, you get a wall of reflections instead! (Not quite so attractive in our photos)

That’s why when your subject is wearing glasses, we need to forget everything we’ve learnt so far about getting light into your subjects eyes, and instead AVOID a situation where you would get catchlights.

You can absolutely still light your subject with front or directional light, but you need to pay attention to where the light is falling, and the reflections that the glasses are picking up.

You’ll then need to change an angle - either your shooting position, or more likely, change the direction your subject is facing.

Generally speaking, move their head a little bit AWAY from the light to remove the glare. So for example, instead of having your subject turn slightly toward the window, have them angle their head so they are turned slightly away from it.

If you look at this example below, it’s only the lady on the bottom right who has glare in her glasses, because she is turned slightly TOWARD the light.

However, by turning her head slightly AWAY from the light, most, if not all, of the glasses glare has gone!

Even just asking the subject to dip their chin a little can remove the reflections and glare, so it doesn’t have to be a massive change in direction or angle.

If you look at these two photos below - the one on the right. has less glasses glare just because the subject tilted their head down a teeny tiny smidgden.

Its a slight change, but it can make all the difference.

The key is that you need to pay attention to where the light is hitting the glass, and then have your subject turn away from the light until you don’t see it anymore!

2 - Tilt the glasses

This is closely related to no 1 on our list here, because it’s still about the angle of the glasses to the light.

Another simple fix is instead of moving your subject’s head, you can have them simply tilt the glasses slightly so that they are not on the same level as your light source. Changing the angle of the glasses, but keeping the head in the same position, can be enough to reduce or remove glasses glare.

(As a side note, you don’t always need to remove glare completely - just so that it is not over the eyeball, where it is much more difficult to deal with in editing, and simply looks more distracting)

3 - Use backlight

Another solution - and yes, yes, it’s still about the angle of light - is to change the direction of light completely, and instead of using front or side light, change it so that the light is BEHIND your subject, and you the photographer are shooting into the light.

Using backlight will reduce the amount of light hitting the glasses, and therefore reduce glasses glare.

Again, normally in backlight we might look for a reflector to “bounce” light back into our subject’s eyes, but when our subject is wearing glasses, this will simply bounce the light onto the frames, and give us reflections and glare again! (If that happens, you can go back to no1 and no2 of our list!)

Using backlight can be a particularly good option for younger children who won’t pay the blindest bit of attention to you when you ask them to tilt their head in one direction or another!

It’s also great for more lifestyle or documentary images like the one below, where you don’t want to be continually asking your subject to tilt their head one way or another!

4 - Remove the glasses completely

If the person doesn’t wear glasses all the time, then a nice simple solution is just to take them off for the portraits!

However if the person always wears glasses it wouldn’t look like a true portrait to take them off (seeing my mother without glasses would just look plain weird!) in which case, I wouldn’t even suggest it.

I would also be careful of asking people to take their glasses off (especially children) because it can sound like you are saying they are more attractive without them than with them, which is absolutely NOT true, but they maybe don’t know or understand that it’s an issue with getting reflections rather than anything else!

So, I’d only really go with this option if the person only wears them sometimes (and also therefore doesn’t need them) and you can simply say that you want to mix things up by taking pictures with and without glasses, so that you have options for both.

5 - Do an “eye swap” by merging two images

The first one requires a bit of foresight when shooting, because you need to take TWO pictures of the person; one with glasses, and one without.

You then do a swap of the eyes (like you would a head swap!) so that you are taking the eyes from the image taken without the glasses, and merging that into the image taken WITH the glasses.

This really only works if you take the images in the same spot, and in the same lighting, and at the same angle - so you can’t merge two images of the same person taken at different times for example.

6 - Edit out the glare

The final solution is for when you didn’t get it right in camera, by tilting the angle of the head, the glasses, or changing the direction of the light, and you didn’t manage to get two images (one with or one without) to merge together, and that is to edit out the glasses glare by using a mixture of dodge and burn, healing and patching, and blend modes.

If you have removed the majority of the glare when shooting (by making sure when photographing that any reflections do not fall over the eyeball and are minimal) it shouldn’t be too difficult to remove the remainder in either Lightroom, or if you need the more advanced pixel editing tools, Photoshop. (You get them BOTH in the Photography Plan from Adobe at just $9.99 per month!)

If the glare IS over the eyeball then you can probably still do something with Photoshop, it might just not be perfect :-)

Check out this video tutorial from PiXimperfect that shows you this in action.

If this is beyond your capabilities, or you just don’t have the patience or time for it (that would be me) then there are retouching services out there that will be able to do this for you for a fee. Unfortunately I don’t know much since I’ve never used them, but for one photo it shouldn’t be too expensive, but if you have a whole card full of photos, then it could get pricey, which is why it’s always better to try to get it right in camera!

Of course there is one final option, and that is just to let perfection go!

If you are always photographing someone with glasses (say your child) then not EVERY photo has to have glasses glare removed, so if the rest of the photo looks good, then just go with it :-)

And there you have it - 6 different ways you can get rid of glasses glare in photos!

KEEP ON READING:

How to Get Catchlights in photos

How to Use Window Light For Portraits

Step By Step Guide for Using Backlight

What is a Reflector and Do I Need One?

DOWNLOAD THE FREE MASTERING LIGHT GUIDE

]]>6 Easy Ways To Get Rid of Glasses Glare in PhotosMaking the Switch: How to Transition from Auto to Manual ModePHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 09 May 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/switch-from-auto-to-manual-mode5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6459ce8767cafa19ee5a62fc

Are you still relying on Auto mode for your photos?

If so, I get it! It's totally understandable that you might be a little hesitant to switch to Manual mode, but I promise your camera has the potential to capture even better shots with even just a little guidance from you, which is why I always urge photographers to move away from AUTO mode and into manual mode sooner rather than later!

Luckily, there are features on your camera that can help you gently ease into taking more control over your photos.

By gradually adjusting taking more control of your settings, you can improve your pictures and gain the confidence you need to eventually switch to full manual control 💪

And that’s exactly what we’ll cover today!

Why can’t I use AUTO?

First off, it's best to understand what your camera actually does on AUTO.

When your camera is set to Auto mode, it tries to determine the correct exposure by setting the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO based on the available light.

However, this can result in photos with a "snapshot" quality, as the camera aims for middle-of-the-road settings to cover all eventualities. Remember, the camera doesn't have eyes, and doesn’t know what you are trying to photograph, so it can only ever guess at what you might want the scene to look like!

And as middle of the road settings = middle of the road photographs, we definitely want to avoid that at all costs!

Additionally, the camera may choose a shutter speed that is too low, resulting in blurry shots, especially if you are shooting indoors, or anywhere where the light is a little lower.

To improve your photos, switching to manual mode and adjusting the settings yourself is the way to go!

This allows you to tailor the settings to the specific situation and achieve better results.

But how do you get there?

Let’s look at how you can gently, but firmly, transition from Auto to Manual Mode.

Before we go any further, I do want to let you know about a little freebie I have for you - my free Camera Settings Cheat Sheet. In it I give you suggested Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO settings for different photos, so you can print it out and have it handy next time you’re shooting.

Print it out and keep it handy when shooting so you can confidently and quickly set your camera in Manual Mode.

Step #1: Start with Scene Modes

"Scene modes" are simply a way of telling the camera what exactly it is you are photographing, so that it can decide what the most important setting is, and it will work out the other two settings based on that.

For example, let’s say you are photographing your child on sports day. This means you need to freeze the movement to get a crisp shot.

In Scene Mode, you would choose  "Sports" (sometimes called "Action") so your camera knows that shutter speed is the most important setting, so it will choose a higher shutter speed number to try to stop any motion blur. It will also choose an aperture and ISO setting based on this higher shutter speed.

But perhaps (maybe at the end of the race!),you want to take a portrait style image of your subject, where you have the subject in nice sharp focus, but with a nice blurred background.

Then in this case, we would switch the scene mode to "portrait", and it will understand that the most important setting in this case is the aperture. That means the camera will choose a wider aperture, which in turn will help give you that blurred background. And again, it will change the shutter speed and ISO for you based on that aperture number, and the amount of light in the scene.

By using Scene Modes, you are at least giving your camera an idea of what it is that you’re photographing, so it can start to move away from those middle-of-the-road, catch all settings, and choose ones that are better suited to what you want the scene to look like.

It’s by no means perfect (as there is still so many variables to consider!) but at least you have given your camera a bit more information, which in turn, helps it choose better settings!

However, I'm not a fan of staying on these too long, because there are many, many otherthing we’ll want to take into account when choosing our settings, and you are much, much, much better placed than your camera to make them!

 Which is why, once you have used this mode to get some ideas on how your settings change in different situations, you should make the move to the NEXT stage of your transition from auto to manual mode, which is to….

#2 - Switch To A Semi-Automatic Mode

Semi-automatic modes, such as Aperture Priority Mode and Shutter Priority Mode, are a nice halfway point between full Auto mode and full Manual mode.

When using these modes, YOU get to choose what your most important setting is (rather than the camera choosing it for you in Scene Modes) and the camera balances out the exposure for you by setting the remaining two for you.

For me personally, I always use Aperture Priority if I am ever using a semi-automatic mode (which is not very frequent!) as this gives me the most creative control, however, if you are in a situation where getting a really fast (or really slow) shutter speed is essential, then feel free to use Shutter Priority.

In essence they do the same thing - allow you to choose that most important setting yourself, but with the safety net of the camera balancing out the exposure for you.

There’s another benefit to switching to a semi-automatic mode, and that is the fact that by doing so, you are also able to start making changes to OTHER crucial settings, for example, turning off flash, choosing your own focus point, changing your metering mode, or switching to shoot in the raw file format.

You will need to start choosing your own settings here but panic not, I have a FREE camera settings cheat sheet for you that details the most likely aperture, shutter speed and ISO numbers you’ll want to use in different situations so be sure to grab your free copy.

OK, so once you have been shooting in one of the semi automatic modes a while, you may be tempted to settle in and stay here.

But this is where many photographers (myself included) get frustrated, because despite having lots of knowledge, they STILL can’t get the photos they see in their head, or at least not consistently.

Which is why, as soon as you feel comfortable, you should switch to…

Step #3 - Full Manual Mode 🎉

Yep, our little journey through the scene and semi-automatic modes has all been building to this point, where you take control of ALL the settings yourself in Manual Mode.

In this mode, you choose the most important setting yourself (usually aperture or shutter speed) and then choose the remaining two settings yourself in order to balance your exposure.

In other words, you are taking control of ALL three settings yourself, and the camera sits back and lets the master get on with it :-)

Honestly, there really is no substitute for taking FULL control of your camera, because it's the only way to consistently get the images you see in your head to translate into the camera.

So as the sooner you get started, the sooner you'll get good photos, so I’d start to make the transition as soon as possible.

Is there a learning curve? Absolutely.

Will you stuff up a few times? Without a doubt.

Will you fumble around trying to get your settings right? Yep, but only for a little while!

Just like learning ANYTHING, there will be a period of adjustment while you learn the ins and outs of choosing the right settings, using the right metering modes, understanding how to ignore what your camera is telling you and shoot over or under (it takes balls to tell your fancy-ass camera you know best!) but after a while, it just becomes second nature and you don’t need to think about it so much every time you take a shot :-)

Don’t forget you can download that FREE Manual Settings Cheat Sheet to make choosing your settings that little bit easier.

Personally, I’m always pretty much in manual mode, only occasionally switching to a semi automatic mode when it makes more sense.

But here’s the crucial thing: when I switch back, I still retain ALL of the knowledge I have about shooting in manual mode, so I can make adjustments in aperture priority mode to still make sure I get the best shot.

Just because you CAN shoot in manual mode doesn’t mean you always have to shoot in that mode, but it does mean that you have the knowledge to get your images to look exactly the way you want them to, regardless of what shooting mode you use.

If the idea of learning manual mode is overwhelming, then you might want to check out my Exposure Essentials program!

It will take you from using Auto mode to shooting in manual mode in a couple of weeks - and give you all the information you need, laid out for you step by step, so that it makes total sense every step of the way.

Thanks so much for being here, and I hope you enjoyed this guide to moving away from Auto to manual mode in super gentle steps!

Links & Further Reading

FREE Camera Settings Cheat Sheet

How to Choose Your Camera Settings In Manual Mode

Beginners Photography Tutorial: Your Guide to Exposure

5 Mistakes I Made As A New Photographer (and how you can learn from them)

7 Actionable Tips for New Photographers To Help Improve Your Images Today

]]>Making the Switch: How to Transition from Auto to Manual ModeThe 5 Lighting Myths That Are Holding You Back As A PhotographerPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnWed, 19 Apr 2023 13:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/the-6-lighting-myths-that-are-holding-you-back-as-a-photographer5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:60db18b3c8fa8378a6c2739a

Do you struggle with how to use light in photography? Or find yourself using the same “safe light” over and over again because you don’t know how to control or work with more challenging light? If you do, then you’re not alone!

When you think about it, it makes sense that photographers would struggle with it, because it literally is the single most important element in any photograph, and it’s so changeable and versatile.

But as photography literally means “painting with light” so it’s so incredibly important that we, as photographers, understand how light behaves, and how to manipulate it.

Here’s the thing: much of the time, it’s our mindset that holds us back more than anything else when it comes to light. We believe certain things, and because we do, we fail to see and exploit the opportunities that the available light gives us.

For myself, breaking free of always having “perfect” light, and forcing myself to work with whatever was available has allowed me to be more creative, feel more inspired and confident, and create images that are better than ever!

So although all light may not be equal, and some light may be “better” than others for what you want to capture, if you approach light with the right mentality, I promise it will reward you with some of your best images :)

Here’s some of the ways that I used to hold myself back when it came to light - check them out and see if you recognise any of these!!

Before we dive in, I just quickly wanted to let you know about a freebie I’ve got for you that is PERFECT for you if you want to learn how to take your next steps on your photography journey, by learning more about LIGHT.

Before we dive in, if you’re interested in learning more about light, be sure to download our Photography Lighting Starter Guide! You'll learn all about the building blocks of light - its colour, intensity and direction - along with some ideas for using each one to kickstart your creative juices.

Got that? Then let’s dive into the myths that might be holding you back…

Light Myth #1: I Have To Shoot In The Golden Hour

How many times have you heard this: the golden hour (ak.a the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset) is the best time to take pictures, so that’s when you should plan all your shoots for. The end.

As photographers, we do hear this a lot don’t we?!

But it’s just simply not practical to plan every single image to be taken at golden hour, not least because most of our daily lives happen outwith these times! Even if you are in business, those times might not always be practical for your clients.

Don’t get me wrong, planning a special shoot at golden hour is a fantastic idea, as it gives your images a “look” like no other, but there’s no way on this earth that is going to be the ONLY time you shoot, especially if your goal is to photograph your family or your daily life.

That means you’ll need to learn how shoot during cloudy days, low light, in the rain and snow, and on bright, sunny days, but more than NEED, I think you’ll WANT to shoot at those times too!

Low light can give fantastically moody images, sunny days are great for bright, highly saturated, fun images and you can create true magic with snow and rain, so why on earth would you want to avoid these?!

So, yes, the golden hour light is insanely beautiful, and it’s an amazing time to shoot, but other types of light will give you fantastic images too, so don’t miss out on capturing those waiting for the “perfect” time. So many of our Mastering Natural Light students said they felt empowered by being able to use light in so many different ways, felt more confident, and got more creative images, so it’s worth expanding your range away from just the golden hour!

Light Myth #2: Natural Light is Bad Because It’s Never The Same

Yep, natural light can beautifully unpredictable, but that doesn’t mean you don’t have any control - far from it! It’s all about knowing how to work with what is around you to create the results you want.

For example, if you are shooting on a sunny day, you can choose to diffuse the light for a softer look, embrace the hard light for more contrasty, highly saturated images, or create a softer backlit effect.

(Want to know exactly how to do this? Check out our step by step program Sun to Shade!)

If you are shooting indoors you can choose different window sizes and placements to get super soft or super hard light for different looks, and embrace the fact that you can get multiple looks from one window!

Great photographers aren’t great because they simply luck out and always happen to get perfect light, it’s because they learnt how to work around the problems that the light creates: in short, how to create magic with what they have.

So the one thing you can do to immediately improve ALL your photos is to learn how to manipulate the light given to suit your vision, so you can always work with what you’ve got.

Light Myth #3: The Light in My Home is Too Dark

Small windows can make for truly amazing dramatic images, so if that’s what you have in your home, learn to embrace them!

Your smaller windows will allow you to play more with shadows, and shadows and light together is what makes images feel more three dimensional. In fact, lighting in photography often all about the shadows! (Want to dive into this deeper? Read this post 4 Ways Shadows Can Add Impact To Your Photos)

Although you might not be able to get the light and airy look to your images with a darker home, you can decide to make the most of what you have, and create beautifully dramatic and creative images instead.

I’ve definitely manipulated my light source to make it act more like a small window in the past, so that my light and airy living room can give me images with depth and dimension, so instead of lamenting what you don’t have, learn to work with what you’ve got!

A good photographer finds ways to exploit almost any kind of light - the only thing that you are limited by is your imagination.

Light Myth #4: My Part of the World Has Horrible Light

I’m going to hold my hand up to this one! I believed this for years because my part of the world is not exactly known for it’s good weather 😜

Here in beautiful Scotland we can have four seasons in one day, sometimes even in one hour (yes, even in the height of summer!) so it can be often be impossible to predict the weather from one day to the next The only thing you can safely bet on is that you’re highly likely to get more clouds and rain throughout the year than anything else!

My beginner photographer self was not too happy about this, but as I’ve grown, I’ve begun to appreciate what I DO have. Cloudy days can be simply beautiful if you know how to add interest in other ways, and although I can’t use golden hour in summer too well (due to how early / late the sun rises/ sets) I can use it in winter - my photos just look different to those who live in climates where it’s sunny most of the year!

Now, did you spot the theme running through all of this?

Yep, mastering photography is not about waiting for the perfect light, it’s all about learning to work with what you have, both by changing your mindset to the light you’ve got, and by learning how to manipulate it.

So if you take one thing away from me today, it’s this:

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS BAD LIGHT.

It’s how you approach and deal with the light that is good or bad, not the light itself!

As always, if you enjoyed this post, please share it! It helps keeps small one-woman blogs like myself alive and fed. Pin in to your Pinterest boards, share on Facebook or Twitter, or mention Live Snap Love on Instagram!

Links & Further Reading

]]>The 5 Lighting Myths That Are Holding You Back As A Photographer5 Surefire Ways to Take Your Photos to The Next LevelPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 18 Apr 2023 10:05:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-to-make-photos-look-more-interesting5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:643506dc2aaaea49300447d1

This week, I’m going to dive into how you can make your photos look more interesting and creative!

I was inspired to write this by a question from one of our followers that went a little something like this:

“How to do you find something interesting to photograph, but then actually make it look interesting! I see many things I want to photograph, but when I take pictures of them, they look so mundane”

This feeling is really common among photographers who have learned the basics, in other words, they understand exposure, they are shooting in manual mode, they get sharp focus, and probably know how to use some types of light or composition rules……

…but they are now ready for their photos to go beyond that.

I definitely struggled with this too, and I had to challenge myself to leave my cozy comfort zone, and get out there and explore new ways of photographing things that maybe weren’t so easy to do, because its by growing and expanding our skills that leads to more jaw-dropping photos.

Every time I shot, I would really push myself to try different things, even if they didn’t always work out in the end, because when they did work, they REALLY worked.

The good news is, there is only really two things you need to consider when trying to get your photos to look more interesting: light and composition.

When you start to focus on those things, your photos will come to life, and you will be able to create magical “next level” photos.

So, I thought I would share with you 5 things I focus on that help me break out of my comfort zone and create more interesting photos, even when the subject matter itself might be totally mundane.

#1 - Change your vantage point

Let’s start with a super easy one shall we? Because everyone can do this, regardless of where you are in your photography journey.

And that is to simple try to change your vantage point.

We all get stuck taking the same photos, in the same way, and from the same perspective. But when you are always taking photos from the same vantage point as people would normally view a scene, it can sometimes look a little bit bland.

So a really simple way to jazz up your image is to choose a more interesting vantage point.

You could try shooting from the hip, getting above your subject and shooting down on them, or lying on your tummy and shooting across the ground, and look up and see what’s happening from that vantage point!

You will be amazed at the difference just switching away from the usual vantage point can make.

#2 - Use colour effectively

Another way to get more interesting photos is to use colour effectively, because using it right can convey emotions, draw attention to your subject, add interest or tie the various elements of a scene together and make it all look more interesting!

There are lots of different ways you can do that, from using chromatic contrast, or using the same set of colours for a more harmonious feel.

You can use chromatic repetition to help create a connection, and you could go even deeper and explore the psychological effects of color by using the color in the frame to set or enhance the mood of your image!

So we can add yet another level to our work by considering our colour palettes, which will in turn make our images either more interesting, either just visually or by creating an emotion in our viewer (which is an incredibly powerful way to make your photos more engaging!)

I could talk about colour all day, because it really can make the most mundane thing seem interesting, so definitely try considering the colours in the frame next time you shoot.

#3 - Wait for the perfect moment

Let’s move on now to another element of an interesting image, and that is to wait for a the perfect moment.

The famous photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson wrote of ''the decisive moment,'' which he defined as ''the simultaneous recognition, in a fraction of a second, of the significance of an event as well as of a precise organization of forms which give that event its proper expression.'' but to put that in more simple way, it’s come to mean waiting for the perfect second to press the shutter, both in terms of what’s happening in the frame, and how the image is composed.

waiting for the perfect moment is going to be more true in scenes where there is action happening, rather than a still life, but I guess it can apply to all forms of photography.

For me, who mainly shoots portrait and lifestyle or family documentary images, it means waiting for a perfect moment, or guiding it along.

For example, in a portrait shot it might mean waiting or playing a game (if younger children) to get the moment when the smile actually reaches the eyes, rather than the fake cheesy smile most children, and people, start off with.

Or it may mean getting myself into the right position for the light and composition, and patiently waiting for my son to come into the perfect place in the frame (or far more likely, entice him there in some way!) or simply by waiting until there is a gesture or expression during a mundane activity that lifts it up a little.

As a side note, if you have great light, great composition and a great moment, then you’ve pretty much nailed getting an amazing picture!

#4 - Use more interesting light

I should probably have led with this one, because I don’t think there is anything as important in creating a compelling image than how you use light and shadow.

After all, photographers are literally “writers of light” - that’s exactly what the word means - so it’s critical that we keep learning about light, and the many ways we can use it, if we want to lift our images up to that next level.

There are also so many types of light, and so many ways we can use each type, that we can literally experiment with different light from morning to night!

You can use direct light, diffused light, reflected light, lighting patterns, backlight, side light, front light, light from the sun, light from the window, light from a lamp, a flashlight, an iPad, at sunset, at midday, lighting the background, darkening the background, photographing the shadows, dappled light, sunbursts, silhouettes, pockets of light and many more.

Learning about light is CRITICAL in photography, and you can make a start today with my FREE Mastering Natural Light guide - just go here to grab your free copy!

In short, learning how to identify, then use the different lighting opportunities that is around you every single day is absolutely key to creating interesting images.

Just as a side note - in order to be able to use light effectively, and be able to really manipulate the light and shadow, you do want to be shooting in manual mode! So if you are still on auto or any of the semi automatic modes, go learn manual mode first, then start learning about light.

#5 - Use advanced compositions

Last but not least in my little list of how to get more interesting photos is to use more advanced compositions.

When we start in photography, we all use the same composition rules, because they are easy to do, and so perfect for us when we are just starting out.

And that is absolutely as it should be - learn those basics first, but then, when the time comes where you feel like you want MORE, and you want to take your photos up a notch, make sure you break out of your comfort zone and try new and interesting compositions.

Elevated composition is a sure-fire way to create more interesting photos!

Again, there are far too many composition guides for me to even mention, much less get into! But again, here are just some quick examples for you to try:

The first is considering the depth of your image, and adding in different planes to give a feeling of depth.

When we take an image, we flatten our three dimensional world into a two dimensional one, which can leave our images looking a little flat. To counteract this, we can add depth to our image by creating layers, which in turn, makes our images look more alive, and yes, more interesting!

Another option is to use the golden ratio. There are lots of guides that spark from this mathematical ratio, such as the fibonacci sequence, the golden triangle, the golden spiral, golden grid or golden rectangle.

There is (apparently) a strong relationship between this golden ratio and what humans perceive to be beautiful - this may be because this ratio is found naturally, all around us in nature, but for whatever reason, they can give you a very powerful composition, which again, is a little more interesting that just sticking with the rule of thirds for every picture.

So there you have it, the 5 ways you can make your images look more interesting, regardless of the subject.

Once again, thank you so much for being here and I’ll see you again, same time, same place, next week!

WANT MORE? TRY THESE…

5 Reasons Why Understanding Light Will Make You A Better Photographer

8 Photography Lighting Ideas

Get the FREE Mastering Natural Light Guide

]]>5 Surefire Ways to Take Your Photos to The Next Level5 Reasons Why Understanding Light Will Make You A Better PhotographerPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 11 Apr 2023 13:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/why-understanding-light-will-make-you-better-photographer5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:5f5f27ae1dbe6930fb5c369f

Being able to identify, understand and modify light is one of the most important skills you can master in photography.

Why, I hear you ask?!

Because knowing how to use light effectively will allow you to turn everyday, mundane scenes into something magical and awe-inspiring, help you feel confident shooting in ANY type of light at any time of day, allow you to get more creative images AND make you feel inspired to pick up your camera every waking moment.

Not bad for something that is essentially free 😉

Of course, light is fundamentally important in photography (since without it we would only have a black frame!) but going beyond simply seeing light for the sake of exposure is what allows us to convey depth, mood and emotion in our photos.

In short, it’s that magic missing ingredient that lifts up every single image, and makes it look “otherworldly”.

Which is why, once you have mastered the fundamentals of photography (such as shooting in manual mode, getting sharp focus and using composition and ideally, knowing how to edit those images!) then then next thing I recommend is learning more about LIGHT.

So here’s 5 big reasons why learning about light will have a big impact on your images!

Before we dive in, I just quickly wanted to let you know about a brand spankin’ new freebie I have for you, your Art of Light Starter Guide. You'll learn all about the building blocks of light - its colour, intensity and direction - along with some ideas for using each one to kickstart your creative juices. Plus you'll get the questions you should ask yourself about the light when shooting, so you can put it all into action! Go here to download it.

#1 You can get more creative with your photos

I honestly can’t think of anything that makes me feel more inspired and creative than light!

Just watching the way the light and the shadows play with one another is enough to get me motivated to pick up my camera, and shoot in a different way from morning to night.

You could use direct light, diffused light, reflected light, lighting patterns, backlight, side light, front light, light from the sun, light from the window, light from a lamp, a flashlight, an iPad, at sunset, at midday, lighting the background, darkening the background, photographing the shadows, dappled light, sunbursts, silhouettes, pockets of light……you get the idea :)

Knowing how to use and manipulate light will allow you to get really creative with your images because there is simply SO much to play with!

Try this: before you even lift your camera to your eye, start by simply observing the light around you, and how it changes during the day.

Take note of the windows in your home, and how the light comes in in the morning vs the afternoon.

Head out into the world and notice how the light changes between sunrise and midday.

Come home at night and look at all the possible light sources around you.

I promise that just by noticing the light you’ll start to feel more inspired and creative! It’s been the number one thing that has taken my photos to the next level,

“Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.”

George Eastman, Founder of Kodak

#2 You will flatter your subjects

If you are a people photographer, then one of the ways you can flatter your subject is simply by lighting them in the right way!

Again, let’s move beyond the basics here, because we can add depth, show or minimise wrinkles, define the cheekbones or slim a wide face simply by how we position our subject in relation to the light. It’s getting more nuanced, but these small changes can have a big impact, and allow you to take your people photos to the next level.

(And as a side note: if you are in business, a portrait photographer who understands exactly how to make their subjects look their best will sell more and be in higher demand. Just sayin’)

You can check out exactly where to place your subjects for the BEST light in our Sun to Shade course - check it out if you want step by step guides and strategies for ALL types of weather!

#3 You can set the mood

Your use of light can have an enormous impact of not just how your image looks, but also how your image FEELS.

Light can do more than simply allow our cameras to take an image, capture a likeness, or freeze a moment, it can also communicate a feeling or emotion too - which in turn will lift your images up and take them to the next level.

You probably already know that light can have an impact on your mood - how you feel on a bright sunny morning is different from how you feel on a gloomy overcast afternoon, and different again from how you feel at night when you can't see what's there in the darkness.

A picture taken of two friends hugging with a golden sunrise behind them is a far different picture than the same pose with an dark threatening sky behind them, but even just something as simple as the direction of light can make a difference: for example, using split lighting will give you a more dramatic look than front light, whereas lighting from below can give a ghoulish feel.

“In the right light, at the right time, everything is extraordinary.” – Aaron Rose

#4 You can create images that have better depth and dimension

Shadows in an image help to give it DEPTH. 

Remember that when we take an image, we flatten a three dimensional world and make it into a two dimensional image.  This happens because the camera brings objects far and near together, and flattens them onto one plane.

(That's why it's only AFTER you see the finished image you realise there is a telephone pole sticking out of your subjects head - your eyes can take on depth, but your camera can't in the same way - it brings foreground and background elements and pushes them together)  

So, shadows can help bring back a sense of depth in the image, which in turn makes the scene more more three dimensional, and therefore more "real". Images that look like you could reach out and touch them often have shadows in them, because they create that “real” feeling.

(Want to dive into this deeper? Read this post 4 Ways Shadows Can Add Impact To Your Photos)

When you understand light, you can decide where to place those shadows, where to place the highlights, so that you can mould the scene and make it more “touchable!”. What a great skill to have!!

#5 You can shoot at any time of day, in any location

Natural light is constantly changing - it will change from hour to hour, from season to season, giving you such a wide range of options at your disposal! Even after the sun has gone away for the day, you can use artificial light to create an amazing range of images.

Understanding the key aspects of light means that you can walk into any situation, at any time, and see all the options in your mind, and how you can either work with the existing light, or modify it to suit your vision. (Or maybe better yet, you can plan ahead to get the type of light you want for a shoot)

The golden hour is great, but not always practical (for me, in summer, there’s not a chance of me photographing during the golden hour - I would have to be up and out by 4am or out shooting at 10pm, and I like to be in bed with a hot cocoa by 9. (Sad, but true!)

Having that confidence is such an incredibly powerful tool to have your disposal, because a more confident photographer tries new things and stops playing it safe….which in turn helps us be more creative!

Study the light, try out different sources and types, learn how to manipulate it, use it and play with it, and I promise you will feel more incredibly creative and confident with photography!

Take your first steps today by checking out Sun to Shade - using the light effectively will make SUCH a huge difference to your photos!

Over to you!

Tell me, how do you feel about working with light - are you confident enough to strut into any location and make it work, or does the thought of full sun or small windows make you want to pack up and go home? Let me know in the comments below!

As always, if you enjoyed this post, please share it far and wide :) Sharing helps keeps small blogs like mine alive, so I can help you more! So pin in to your Pinterest boards, share on Facebook or Twitter, or simply mention Live Snap Love on Instagram!

See you next week!

xo, Audrey

]]>5 Reasons Why Understanding Light Will Make You A Better PhotographerLenses for Child Photography: My 3 Must Have LensesGEARCHILD & LIFESTYLEPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 04 Apr 2023 06:20:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/lenses-for-child-and-family-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:645894a5e27ba5143f753bb8

Wondered what lenses are great for child and family photography? Thats exactly what we’re going to talk about today, where I’m going to share with you my three favourite, and most used, lenses for taking pictures of child and family photography.

Now, when I say child and family photography, I’m actually speaking about 2 different types of photography. The first is documentary photography, which is simply capturing everyday family life - those little moments and details that make up our days, along with the most special adventures like holidays or trying something new, and things like birthdays and celebrations.

The second type of photography for child and family photography is portrait photography, either of the child or its own or a family group photo.

I personally love both genres - I love to take portrait style images of children and I love capturing those everyday little moments as well.

So these are my three favorite lenses that allow me to do all of that, but they're also great for other types of photography too. So if you feel like branching out and doing something different, they can absolutely be used for other types of photography as well.

Now, before we dive in, I do want to let you know that I have a new mini course that you might like: my Ultimate Guide to Lenses! This course gives you example images taken with loads of different types of lenses so you can see what each lens does and how it performs. It also gives you a breakdown of when you would want to use each one of those focal lengths, so it’s a great resource if you’re looking at lenses! Check out the Ultimate Guide to Camera Lenses here.

Let's dive in with my first favorite lens, which is…

Sigma 35 mm f 1.4 Art lens

The Sigma 35mm F1.4 Lens (Canon Version) is probably my most used lens out of all of the lenses that I own!

Unfortunately, this lens is a little bit on the expensive side. It's around $800, but the good news is, it's nowhere near as expensive as the Canon comparable lens, the 35mm f 1.4, which is around $2,000!

So although expensive, it’s cheap when compare to the Canon version :-)

But I have to say, this lens is worth every cent because it is super sharp even when the aperture is opened up all the way to f 1.4 - this is unusual, because most lenses just aren't that sharp when they're open up to the widest aperture!

This has actually been a great boost for me because it does mean that I can use it f 1.4 and - if I'm very careful about where I place my focus - I can still get really sharp images. So that's one reason that I love this particular lens.

I also really love the 35mm focal length.

On a full frame camera, this gives you a wider view than the naked eye and this means that you can fit that little bit more into the frame, which makes it absolutely perfect for those documentary images of your everyday family life! (Confused about the difference between full frame and crop frame - read this!)

For example, I will use this a lot indoors.

Firstly because it's got that wider aperture of F1.4, it means I can let more light into my camera, and when you're shooting indoors, there's a little less light going around than you might like, so letting more light via your aperture is a godsend.

The second reason I love it for indoor shots is because it allows me to fit that bit more into the frame, so I can capture my subject and get more of what's happening in the room too. So it's really great for being able to keep in some of that environment and getting the context around what you're photographing.

This could be indoors in your home, but also other indoor spaces, for example, like an aquarium, or in stores or cafes.

This photo on my son in the lego store in Copenhagen (look at that excitement!!!) is a perfect example of this!

But I also use this lens outdoors,

Again, this is for scenes where I want to add more of the environment in. As an example, if I were photographing my child down at the beach, or maybe at the park, anywhere where I really want to get that surroundings in as well, this lens is great for that.

Again, this example below is in a Jazcuzzi out there in the Scottish Highlands, and I wanted to have my son AND the location in the frame.

Finally, it's also great for a family group photos - where you want to capture the whole family as a portrait style shot.

This is why the 35mm is my major workhouse of a lens, simply because of the number of places that I use it!

The only thing I don't use it for is individual portraits. For example, if you're just doing a head and shoulder shot rather than an environmental portrait, that's not really the lens for that.

So the 35mm is definitely one of the best lenses for lifestyle or documentary style images, both indoors and outdoors. So if that is your preferred genre of child photography, this (or an equivalent like the ) is a fantastic lens for you!.

#2 Canon 85 mm f 1.8.

The Canon 85mm F1.8 is actually one of the cheapest lenses that I own, as when compared to other lenses, it’s not horrendously expensive. (all lenses are expensive in my opinion, so I am talking comparitavely here!)

Let’s start with the focal length. This 85mm focal length is absolutely perfect for portraits, both indoors and out.

The reason I quite like it for outdoor portraits of children is that it does allow you to be close enough to the child that you can talk with them and interact with them, so you can get some smiles going in your portraits!

Also the 85 mm focal length is very flattering, because it tends to slim the face ever so slightly (perhaps not quite so important for children, but for adults, it can be a godsend) but it also gives amazing background blur.

That’s the 2 reasons that this lens great for child portraits because you can get that amazing background blur, which I want for my portraits, and I can still be close enough to interact with my subjects.

I will also use it for lifestyle images outdoors too, so again, it’s a good all rounder, which is why it makes it into my “most used” list!

#3 - Canon 135mm f 2.0.

The Canon 135mm F2.0 Lens is the most expensive lens out of the three that are my favorites, but this lens is just beautiful, so it was worth the wait to save up for it!

The 135mm focal length gives the most dreamy, creamy background blur imaginable. It's just so soft and buttery and beautiful.

I use this lens in 2 situations when it comes to child photography - for portraits where I want that amazing background blur, and get a dreamy, ethereal look, and also for child lifestyle / documentary images, where I don't want to be up close and personal with my subject.

I do tend to use this lens outdoors, rather than indoors, as it’s a bit too much of a squash and a squeeze to use it inside - you need a bit of space around you!

If you don’t like prime lenses..

So all three of these lenses are prime lenses, which means if you want to zoom further in or further back, then you have to move your feet!

Now, I personally don't mind. I love prime lenses.

I think it feels more immersive when I have to physically move closer or further back to get the shot that I want. So I personally like doing that, but I know that many people don't! So if primes aren't for you, then don't worry, you can absolutely get lenses that have these focal lengths as part of a zoom.

So if you prefer, you can use something like a Canon 24-70mm Lens (You can also get the Nikon version here, and a Sigma version here)

The 24-70mm focal length is just a really great range - it’s going to cover that 35mm for documentary style and give you around about the 85mm for portraits as well, in one lens.

Because of this, t's perfect for using indoors, it's perfect for lifestyle images, it's perfect for images where you want environmental style portraits, you can use it for traditional portraits as well.

So as an all rounder lens, the 24 to 70mm is a great one to get!

(I used to have a kind of similar version to this - the Tamron 28 to 75 mm. It is a little bit cheaper than the others, so it's great if you're starting out and you don't want to fork out a lot of money on a lens! You can get this to fit all models of cameras, from Sony to Nikon so remember to get one that fits your camera!)

Another lens that I would recommend for zoom is the 70-200 lens (Nikon version here, Tamron version here).

So this is perfect for outdoor portraits or lifestyle images where you don’t want to be up close to your subject.

The downside to those lenses is they are very heavy. I definitely wouldn't class the as a walk around lens, but they are extremely versatile.

Middle Ground? Go for the 50mm!

Another great all rounder lens is the 50mm F1.8, and it’s lighter on the wallet, so it’s definitely one that you should consider too.

On a crop frame this will give you closer to the 85mm, so perfect for portraits (possibly a little tight indoors if you have small rooms) but on full frame, it’s endlessly versatile as you can do lifestyle, documentary and portraits with it!

(If you use a crop frame, consider a 35mm instead!)

You might also want to read this post I did comparing the 35mm to the 50mm)

So that's it! The 3 lenses all the time for child and family photography - both documentary / lifestyle photos, where I take photos of our everyday little moments, and for child and family portrait style photos.  

I have loads more resources for you, here’s a little suggestion to get you started! (And don’t forget to download that Which Lens Kickstarter Guide too!)

Links & Further Reading

]]>Lenses for Child Photography: My 3 Must Have Lenses5 Tips for Capturing Joy in Child PhotographyPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSCHILD & LIFESTYLEPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 28 Mar 2023 09:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/5-tips-for-capturing-joy-in-child-photography5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:5c78e05aee6eb009de657c96

It can sometimes be the Nirvana of child photography - getting images where your child looks happy, full and joy and completely carefree…..unlike the moody pouty face you normally get :-)

But it is totally doable! There’s just a few things to keep in mind.

In this week’s blog post, I’ve got five tips for you that will help you capture the joy of children, whether you are photographing your own family, or for client sessions if you’re in business.

1) Create Fun moments!

Well, there’s a shocker.

Yep, for capturing fun, joyful images of your children, you have to make sure that they are doing something that they ACTUALLY enjoy. (Yep, blew you away with that one, didn’t I?!)

So think about your session not as simply a way to get joyful expressions, but about what would truly be incredible fun for the child. What do they love to do? What makes them laugh the most?

If you are photographing your own kids you’ve got a great start here, because you know your child better than anyone.

If you are photographing someone else’s kids, ask!

It could be as simple as jumping on the bed (my son’s favourite) or play fighting with Dad (another favourite) running along the beach jumping into the water, playing on the swings or just being thrown in the air.

Once you have your fun activity in mind, then you can decide the location.

Just a couple of things to bear in mind when you are considering this:

!) Make sure that wherever you choose has plenty of space for the child to do the activity, and for you to capture it. For example, play fighting on the bed in your child’s room might not be suitable because the room is too small, but ideal in the main bedroom!

2) If shooting indoors, make sure you choose a location that has great natural light coming in.

3) If shooting outdoors, make sure you are in a location that the children are free to run around in - there’s not much fun in having to keep making sure a toddler doesn’t fall into a lake for example (which would lead to more tears than joy!)

2) Don’t be afraid to use props

I know that many people think of elaborate styled photo shoots when they think of props, but props don’t have to take over the image! They can simply be used to help get happy faces from your children, and rather than take over the image, they actually add to it.

Think things like…

  • Balloons

  • Bubbles

  • Large Candy Lollipops

  • Kites

  • Paints

  • Dress Up Clothes

  • A colourful blanket for playing peek-a-boo

Those are fairly classic, but if your child’s favourite thing in the world is an aeroplane, then adding one into the scene can be a guaranteed joyful expression for that child.

When using props, just make sure that you are happy for whatever you use to be in frame (so for example, go for a classic looking wooden train track rather than the latest plastic singing version) and that’s it something that the child actually enjoys, rather than just because it will look good in the photo :-)

3) Increase shutter speed

Of course there are some practical considerations too.

Where there is joy, happiness and laughter there is usually a lot of movement, so shutter speed is going to be really important factor in making sure that you get a sharp image.

Although there is a rule about never moving below 1/125 for a photographing a person, for photographing an active child, you need to go waay higher!

So for a stationary child I never go below 1/250, and for a moving child, at least 1/800.

If you need more help with what settings to use when, be sure to download our FREE MANUAL MODE CHEAT SHEET! It will help you with aperture, shutter speed and ISO, so you can get the perfect shot.

4) Isolate the emotion

If you really want to make the joyful expression on your child the main focus of the image, it can help to make sure that it’s the ONLY strong element in the image - in other words, remove anything else from the scene can could distract from the expression.

An easy way to do this is simply to get in closer - having your subject up close and centre will help isolate them in the frame.

Another trick for this is to use a longer length lens - longer focal lengths pull the background closer, so that you simply get less of it in the frame! This can help ensure that you get all the attention on your subject.

Finally, you can also blur out the background to help bring focus and attention to your subject. You can do this by using a wider aperture (smaller F number) and bringing your subject away from the background. (You can read more about how to do this in how to get a blurred background)

One word of caution though - moving subjects and a shallow depth of field can lead to lots of out of focus images, so be sure you’re really confident in your focusing abilities before you try this one!

5) Make sure there is sparkle in the eyes

One of the things that can really help give life and joy to the eyes is a little bit of a cheeky sparkle!

These are called catchlights - simply because that sparkle is caused by the light catching the eyes.

If you are shooting indoors, make sure you position your subject close to the window so that they eyes pick up the light - keep turning them until you see the light reflected in their eyes.

If you are struggling outdoors to get light into the eyes, a simple trick is just to have your subject look up at you. This helps the eyes fill with light.

If you are using backlight, using a reflector (bought or natural) will help bounce light back onto your subject and into their eyes!

]]>5 Tips for Capturing Joy in Child Photography7 Essential Tips for Shooting with a 50mm f1.8 LensPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSGEARPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 21 Mar 2023 15:36:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/7-essential-tips-for-shooting-with-a-50mm-f18-lens5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:6457b7604e96fe41541320dc

Today I'm going to give you some tips for using a 50mm F1.8 lens, whether that be the version from Canon or from Nikon (or for anyone else for that matter!)

Really, what we're talking about today is any entry level, inexpensive 50mm F1.8 lens, and how you can use it get the sharp, awesome images it's capable of.

I know that many of you will have either the Canon 50mm f 1.8 lens or the Nikon version, because it's probably the lens that most people go for when they're upgrading from their kit lens!

That’s mainly because it's relatively inexpensive compared to the price of other lenses, but also because that 50mm focal length is really useful on both a full frame or a crop frame camera.

Plus, the lens itself is small, it's lightweight, and most importantly, it’s a fantastic lens for the price!

But I know from experience there’s a bit of a learning curve with it!

In fact, the Canon 50mm F1.8 was the first lens that I bought - along with the Tamron 28 to 75mm zoom lens - because I had kept hearing about the quality of the lens for the price, how tack sharp my images were going to be compared to the kit lens…

…but unfortunately, it didn't quite work out like that! A lot of my images from that time just looked really soft, or the focus wasn't where I wanted it, and to be honest, I wasn’t entirely happy at wasting $125!

But once you have a few essential tips for using the 50mm 1.8 lens, I promise you’re images will be sharper and clearer, and MUCH more like the images you’d been hoping to get!

So, let’s go ahead and dive into the tips that will make this lens the tack sharp monster you hoped it would be…

#1 Don’t Shoot Everything at F1.8

When using a 50mm F1.8 lens, it's important to resist the temptation to shoot at the widest aperture.

I know how tempting it is, especially if you have come from using the kit lens where your maximum aperture might have been F5.6, or F4, or F3.5…

….and then you get this lens that can open all the way up to F1.8 🎉😀🎉😀

So what many photographers do (myself included) is they tend to shoot EVERYTHING at f 1.8 at first.

While using F1.8 can certainly create a beautiful bokeh effect, the problem is the depth of field can be so incredibly narrow at this aperture.

For that reason, it then becomes extremely difficult to get the entire area you want in focus, and as a result, you'll end up with is a ton of unusable shots.

Let’s see a couple of examples….

Let’s say, for example, you were taking a portrait image, and you used F1.8.

You will notice that you'll frequently get another area in focus rather than the eye - either the nose or the eyebrow or even the bangs.

(In other words you have something else sharp in the frame but not the eye that you were going for!)

Here is an example, where the focus is on the hair but NOT on the eyes where we want the focus!

Another common situation with a portrait is if you don't have your subject facing you directly (in other words they're turned slightly away from the camera) you will see that you'll get the eye closest to the camera to be razor sharp, but the eye behind is very soft even though it is only out of being on the same focal plane by a mere centimeter or two.

Again, here’s an example of that so you can see what I mean:

If you look back at my images from around that time, I have loads of images where we've got one eye sharp and the other one soft - all because I was shooting everything at F1.8.

So my advice to you would be to use a slightly higher F number; I would suggest around F2.8.

You will still throw the background out of focus and get lots of nice creamy bokeh, but I guarantee you'll get more of your shots looking tack sharp, and most importantly, getting the right areas of the scene in focus.

One thing to note here is that if you are using F1.8 just to try to get a nice blurry background, you don't have to go down that low in order to do that!

You can definitely get background blur even at F4 or even F5.6 if you do the other steps right!

(Not sure what they are? Download this Free Guide to Shooting in Aperture Priority Mode and it will help you out!)

#2 There is a minimum focusing distance for this lens

Let's move on now to the second tip I have for you, which is to keep in mind the minimum focusing distance.

50mm lenses are not macro lenses, and they need a bit of distance between the camera lens and the subject - in fact, you want to be at least 45 CM away from the subject.

If you're too close and you try and focus, you'll hear the focus motor of the lens; it starts whirring and clunking about and it can't achieve focus.

So if you hear this, take a step back because it could simply be that you're too close to the subject to get focus!

#3 Everything will look closer than it really is

If you are using a cropped body camera (and I’m going to hedge a bet you most likely are if you're using this lens) remember that what you see through your viewfinder is going to look closer than it actually is.

This threw me for a little while because I would always end up a little bit too close to my subject because I wasn't prepared for just how zoomed in everything would look!

Plus, bear in mind that because it’s a prime, if you want to get closer or further away from your subject, you have to physically do it, so it’s easier to try to get your positioning right from the get go, or like me, you’ll end up with lots of shots where you accidentally “chop” off the fingers and toes in your shots.

I would recommend standing a little bit farther back than you would when taking in the scene with the naked eye, and that will give you enough room around your subject.

As a side note to this, the 50mm focal length on a crop frame camera body makes an excellent portrait lens!

You'll get really pleasing background blur and it will slim the face ever so slightly, so it really is a fantastic focal length for portraits on a crop frame camera.

#4 Make Sure You Use A High Enough Shutter Speed

One of the benefits of being able to use low aperture numbers (such as F2.0 or F2.8) is that it enables you to use faster shutter speeds.

I rarely drop below 1/100 when hand holding my camera, and when it comes to photographing people, I use at least 1/125 and for children, I go much higher than that - around 1/200 if they are reasonable still, 1/500 or more if they are active.

(Not sure about shutter speeds? Grab our free camera settings cheat sheet and get suggested settings for Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO!)

Another side note here: you'll be much better cranking up the ISO to get the shutter speed you need, rather than being tempted to use F1.8, unless you're really, really sure of your focusing skills, and working out your depth of field.

I understand that you might be worried about introducing noise by using a higher ISO number, but don't be too concerned. It's much, much, much better to have an in focus image with a little noise - that is fixable in processing - than have a soft image due to motion blur which isn't.

(Want to read more about how to keep noise down in your photos? Give this a read!)

#5 - Choose Your Own Focus Point.

This tip actually goes back a little bit to depth of field.

Remember that I said the depth of field can be so narrow when using your aperture wide, or nearly wide, open. That’s why it’s SO much better to know exactly where the focus point is going, instead of letting the camera choose the focus point for you. (In fact, it's actually always better to do it yourself, it just becomes even more crucial the shallower your depth of field is!)

By choosing your own focus point, you will get much sharper images overall, because you’ll get exactly the right area of the scene in focus.

If you want to learn more about focus, check out step by step workshop, The Focus Fix which goes waaaaaay beyond this with pro focusing techniques and strategies that will give you tack sharp images - even with moving subjects!

#6 - F1.8 is the SOFTEST aperture of the lens.

Most lenses, including the 50mm f 1.8 (regardless of whether it's Canon or Nikon or someone else's) are always slightly sharper when not used at their widest aperture. In other words, when you DON’T use them at F1.8.

The sweet spot of these lenses can vary from lens to lens, but generally the sharpest point of your lens will be when you use an aperture of around F8.

But that doesn’t mean that we need to use F8 to get a sharp shot, because we don't need for everything in the frame from the centre to the outermost edges to be tack sharp all of the time, but it does mean that we want to shoot at least two stops down from the widest aperture.

So on a Canon or Nikon 50mm f1.8 lens, shooting at around f 2.8 or F3.5 will be enough to give you a really excellent level of sharpness, but still let you get enough light into your camera via the aperture for low light scenes, AND give you that blurry background.

The lens sharpness is another reason why I recommend shooting at f 2.8 rather than f 1.8! (Remember, you can grab that camera settings cheat sheetif you need it too)

So let's move on now to the final tip I have for you, which is arguably the most important one out of all of these….

#7 - The photographer is more important than the gear!

Honestly, it's not the the gear that matters, it's the person holding it!

You absolutely can take stunning images with your 50mm F1.8 - you just need to learn how to use it.

Learning about light, how to choose the right settings, using interesting compositions and knowing how to get tack sharp images will all have a much bigger impact on how your final images turn out, regardless of which lens or camera they were taken with.

So spend some time learning about these things - exposure, light, colour, focus and composition - so that you can create images with that wow factor with whatever gear you have!

We have a range of step by step courses that can help you with everything from choosing the right camera settings, getting tack sharp focus, using light effectively and so much more! You can take a look at everything we have here.

Links & Further Reading

How to Get A Blurred Background in Photography

How to Choose Your Settings in Manual Mode

4 Tips To Help Make Your Photos Look More Professional

Why are my photos grainy and how do I fix it?

Making the Most of Your Kit Lens

Free Camera Settings Cheat Sheet

I hope you enjoyed these essential tips for using a 50mm F1.8 lens!

]]>7 Essential Tips for Shooting with a 50mm f1.8 LensStuck in a rut? Try this photography challenge!PODCASTPHOTOGRAPHY PROJECTSAudrey AnnTue, 14 Mar 2023 16:41:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/30-in-30-photography-challenge5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:63ea6840af62ca1710e2939b

If you’re feeling in a rut with your photography, or you just don’t feel inspired to pick up your camera, then this is for you!

I’m sharing with you a quick, 30 minute photography challenge you can do that will help you break out of your photography rut, PLUS I’m going to give you some prompts for inspiration whilst doing it!

Like most photographers, I go through peaks and valleys with photography - there are times when I feel inspired by pretty much everything around me, and I want to pick up my camera all the time, and I’m enjoying experimenting and taking different photos. 

Then there are times when the opposite happens. When I don’t feel inspired or motivated. 

This is when I either don’t pick up my camera at all, or i pick it up more out of habit than desire, and it feels like an effort to take a photo.  And when I get like this, I tend not to love the results, which totally makes sense when you think about it - when you become detached from the process of taking photos, it’s unsurprising that your photos look detached and boring. 

And its a vicious cycle - when you don’t want to pick up your camera, you stop photographing, and then when you try to pick it up again you still feel detached and bored, and the photos aren’t coming out the way you wanted them to, so feel even more demoralized and therefore even less likely to want to pick up your camera.  

I know that I am not alone in this!

I hear from other photographers all the time who tell me they feel in a rut, or they’re bored, or they’ve run out of things to photograph.  This is true of both hobbyists and professional photographers alike, and it can happen to you at whatever stage of your photography journey you are at - from new photographers to experienced professionals. 

What to do when you feel in a creative slump

If you’ve been a follower of Live Snap Love for a while, you’ll know that I always recommend firstly taking a little time away from your camera, just to get a bit of a break, and then coming back by setting yourself a challenge. 

I have a couple of go-to challenges that I do for this, and one of them is the one I’m going to share with you today, which I call the 30 in 30 challenge.

I love it because it’s quick, you can do it anywhere and it’s super simple.  So if you’ve been feeling in a creative slump, I’m going to challenge you to give it a go! 

(All the photos in this post were taken during a single 30 in 30 challenge that I did a little while back, just to give you an idea!)

For this 30 in 30 Challenge, you are going to place some limitations on what you can shoot, and that’s because, believe or not, limitations HELP your creativity.

Instead of being able to shoot anywhere and shoot anything, we are going to limit ourselves to shooting in ONE location and ONLY for 30 minutes. 

Here’s what do for you 30 in 30 challenge:

Step 1: Choose a Location for Your Challenge

First choose a location for your photos,  preferably outdoors, although there’s no reason you couldn’t do this indoors, it might just be a little more challenging. 

It doesn’t need to be somewhere exotic or even incredibly interesting - in fact, the simpler the better. Some examples would be your back garden, a small area in your local park, your driveway, an area of the beach or even a small side street. 

If shooting indoors, stick to one room in your house.

You don’t want too wide an area to cover, remember that the goal is to limit your options of where you can photograph in order to force you to see all the possibilities in one location. 

Your location also doesn’t need to be somewhere new, in fact it will be more of a challenge if you are in a location that you shoot in quite often!

So the first “rule” of the 30 in 30 challenge is that you want to stay in that one location (or one small part of that location if it is somewhere big like a long stretch of beach!) for ALL 30 photos. 

For example, all these images were taken in small stretch of my local beach.

Step 2: Set a Timer for 30 Minutes

Once you have your location sorted, the next step is to set a timer for 30 minutes. Again, we are limiting ourselves and giving ourselves a specific time limit. Now, I don’t care if you end up going over the 30 minute limit, and I’m sure you don’t either, but try to stick it out for at least 30 minutes, and be finished in that time.  If you want, you could spend a bit of time scouting out the location and having a bit of a think before you start the timer.

Then start shooting! With a 30 minute window you need to take a photo every minute. I know, it’s tricky! But we are going to make it a little bit more challenging, by making sure that  each of the 30 photographs is unique and different from the others.  

So to recap, the three “rules” are one location, for 30 minutes, with 30 unique photographs. 

Some points to note….

Although each photograph needs to be unique, each one does not need to be of a different subject.  So for example if you are at the park and you see some pretty flowers, you could take a photograph of one single flower from above, to a group of flowers, before lying down on the ground and shooting them below, or photographing along the whole length of the flower bed. 

Plus, you are not aiming to get the 30 most out of this world, wall worthy, shareable images you have ever taken. The goal is simply get your brain thinking creatively again, to start seeing the possibilities that are always around you, and to encourage you to try something new or that you haven’t done for a while. 

What to do if you still feel uninspired!

Now, I know that you will probably start off standing there with your camera in your hand feeling uninspired, or taking the obvious ones first and then feeling yourself run try. 

So I have a couple of prompts to get you going:

  • Try shooting from many different angles, lie down on your tummy or stand on something and look down or get at eye level.

  • Try using a different f-stop and try a photo with a really wide depth of field, and another of the same thing but this time with an extremely shallow depth of field 

  • If there are moving objects in the scene, you can first use your shutter speed to freeze them, and then another, this time showing the motion through motion blur.

  • For inanimate objects, you can look for interesting lines , patterns, textures, shapes or color combinations.

  • Try using different composition tools such as the rule of thirds, the golden compositions or framing.

  • Light your subject in a different way - try lighting it from the front, then the back, then the side.

  • Move closer and further away from an object - firstly capture just a small detail or element of it, then stand back and capture the whole scene with the object it in.

I hope you can see that although you are limiting yourself in terms of time and location, the possibilities are endless! 

Please let me know how you get on in the comments below, or over on social media - you’ll find me as @livesnaplove on both Facebook and Instagram, and I always love to hear from you!

Plus if you want even MORE ideas for creative challenges, be sure to download the DOWNLOAD THE FREE CREATIVE EXERCISES & CHALLENGES GUIDE!

Links & Further Reading

5 Year Long Photography Projects That Aren’t A 365

How to Find Your Unique Photography Voice & Style

How to Photograph A Day In Your Life

]]>Stuck in a rut? Try this photography challenge!10 Things You Wish You Knew About Shooting In Manual Mode PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 07 Mar 2023 13:46:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/10-things-you-wish-you-knew-about-shooting-in-manual-mode5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:5970a62a15d5dbbb28bbe9d4

It's been quite a few years now since I made the switch from Aperture Priority Mode to shooting in Manual Mode, and it was one of the BEST things I ever did to improve my photography skills. 

It was like a whole new world opened up to me, and I started TRULY understanding exposure, and in turn, getting the images that I wanted.

Of course, there was a lot to learn, and there are some things I wish I had known before I started!

So, here are 10 things about shooting in Manual Mode that you might just wish you knew...

#1 - When photographing in manual mode there are no “go to” settings

I know that many people would like to have some "plug and play" settings for using with manual mode, but unfortunately, it doesn't quite work like that!. 

Firstly, the amount of light in the scene will vary from day to day, from location to location - and even hour by hour! Since you are changing your settings in manual mode to balance EXPOSURE (in other words how bright or dark) your image looks, your settings will change every single time you start shooting.  

Think about it: even just your aperture can be different depending on any number of factors (such as camera type, lens choice, distance from subject and so on) never mind your ISO and Shutter Speed! 

This is also why two photographers could be photographing the exact same scene and might end up using completely different settings, just based on how they want the image to LOOK. 

So as much as I would like to be able to tell you which exact settings to use when: I can't. 

That said, with practice you will get better at knowing where you need to start off with each setting, and then how to balance them together to get the correct exposure that complements your vision. 

So what I can do is give you some guidance about which settings to START with. I have aFREE manual settings cheat sheet right here that gives you some suggested settings for aperture, ISO and shutter speed that you can use in varying situations.  Click the image below to grab it!

#2 - It’s better to crank up your ISO than keep it low and underexpose your shot

Another common complaint is you may find that your images have "noise" (that grain over your image) when you use a higher ISO number. 

Because of  this, I know that many people will try to use as low an ISO number as they think you can get away with - even at the expense of having an image that is underexposed. Unfortunately, all that does it give you even MORE noise in your photos!

It's much better to expose correctly and use a higher ISO number, than it is to use a lower ISO number and underexpose.  You'll get less noise, and your images will appear sharper and clearer. 

#3 - Getting the image right in camera will give you a better photo

Although it can be tempting to think that we can fix everything in processing. the truth is that there are some things you just can't put right after you have taken the shot.   

When you over expose to the point of blowing your highlights,  or underexpose to the point of clipping your blacks, you won't be able to bring back detail into those areas, because you simply can't bring back any information that wasn't recorded to begin with.   Also, significant shifts in exposure can lead to skin that doesn't look as great as it could. 

Although the following things are not strictly limited to shooting in manual mode, you will also want to get the following right in camera too: 

  • Focus: since you can't fix that after the fact either!

  • Your Use of Light: You can't magically make bad lighting into good lighting in processing.

  • White Balance: Unless you already have a good eye for the correct colour, setting white balance in processing can be tricky.

  • Composition: Although you can tweak a composition in processing, you won't be able to fix or apply many composition rules after the photo has been taken.

So, although we can fix things in processing, it is much, much better to use editing as a way of enhancing a good, in camera image, and strive to get as much right as we can in camera, 

#4 - You don’t need to use manual focus in manual mode

Just in case you thought this - using manual mode is not the same as manual focusing!  

Manual focus is when you move the ring on your camera lens to bring an object into focus, rather than having your camera do it for.  You can definitely still use auto focus (where the camera will lock focus for you) in manual mode. 

You should move to manually selecting your focus points, but the camera will still find and lock focus for you. 

Just so you know :-) 

#5 - The image on the back of the camera may look brighter than it does on screen

The preview screen is on the back of your camera is not the best judge of whether an image is correctly exposed. I often find that when I view the image in Lightroom (my preferred editing software) it can look a little darker than it did when I viewed it on the preview screen after taking the picture..

This is because manufacturers tend to make the back screen brighter, so your photos look better (and therefore their cameras!) 

It's not a big deal, and you can usually adjust the brightness of these screens, or just compensate a bit for it, but it is something  to be aware of.  

#6 - Spot metering is your friend

When shooting in manual mode, the best metering mode to use is spot metering, without a doubt. They are a match made in heaven, like strawberries and cream, and Romeo and Juliet.  

Why? Because it really helps you nail your exposure for the scene you are trying to photograph. 

It does take a bit of getting used to, but once you have been using it for a while, you'll find that you can spot meter in just a few seconds, and get bang on exposure for your trouble!  

#7 - Shooting in RAW instead of JPEG is better

Although I just said that you should aim to get it right in camera (you did read that, right?!), there will undoubtedly be times when you stuff up, particularly when you are first starting to use manual mode. 

This is when shooting in RAW can be a bit of a lifesaver :-) 

RAW files allow you more leeway with fixing any in-camera mistakes, like over or under exposure, or fixing your white balance. 

Although you will have to do a bit of work processing your photos in your chosen editing software such as Lightroom, it is well worth it for the extra control you get over how the final image looks! 

#8 - You'll need to practise

Using manual mode at first will feel clunky and long winded, but the more you use it, the easier it becomes. 

Having the knowledge of choosing your settings is one part of it (and the more you truly understand this the easier it will be) but the second part is practising until it becomes second nature.  Honestly, after a while you do it as much with instinct as with any real thought! 

Remember, you can download a manual settings cheat sheet to help you practise if you are not quite sure what you should be doing yet: just click here to download the cheat sheet.

#9 - You won’t get it right every shot

Therewill be times when you get the wrong exposure, or you don't get your settings quite right, or you look at an image after you had taken it and wish you had done a, b or c. 

That's perfectly OK! Making mistakes is part and parcel of learning photography. 

Be patient, and aim for progression, not perfection.  

#10 -  The camera does not make the photographer, but learning manual mode does :-) 

You'll all have heard this before: It's not the gear that makes a great photo, it's the person taking it.  

If you can learn manual mode, and get a understanding of how to control your camera so you can operate in all types of light and in all situations, you will be able to rock any type of camera - from the top of the range pro camera, to the basic entry level DSLR that you want to get away from.  

I don't want to sound harsh, but if you are not getting the images you want, it's not your camera's fault - it's yours.  (please don't beat me!) 

Spend your time and money learning how to manually control your camera, and you'll be able to take much better photos even with an entry level camera and your kit lens,

Promise. 

Links & Further Reading

How to Shoot in Manual Mode

FREE manual settings cheat sheet

Choosing Your Settings in Manual Mode


]]>10 Things You Wish You Knew About Shooting In Manual ModeHow to Take Studio Portraits At HomePHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTGEARAudrey AnnTue, 28 Feb 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/how-to-take-studio-portraits-at-home5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:63d3dc05617a325f10d0e1be

Ever wondered how you can take beautiful studio portraits at home? Then you’re in the perfect place! I’m going to share with you how I take studio portraits at home using nothing more than natural light, and some simple inexpensive backdrops.

Because as much as I love natural, candid documentary and lifestyle photos, my other love is portrait photography. Although I love portraits outdoors, there’s something really powerful about a simple studio portrait - it allows the focus to be completely on the person, plus you can get really inventive with backdrops and props, so you can really let your creative side have fun without worrying about the weather or locations!

Of course, we don’t all have the luxury of having a studio space, or studio lighting, but that doesn’t mean you can’t take beautiful studio portraits at home, in a lot of cases, using what you have, or at least relatively inexpensively. 

I bought everything I need for the studio style photos I take for around $200, which I think is pretty good, and works for me! Obviously, you can go much higher end than this, especially if you plan to set one up that you can use continuously, so the price can go from completely free to thousands of dollars. (Don’t worry, we won’t be going into that in this guide though!)

Instead, I’m going to walk you through how to take studio portraits at home, using what you have, or cheap and cheerful equipment. 

So let’s go ahead and dive in! 

Step 1: Consider your light source

The first thing we need to decide on for our studio portraits is the  light source we are going to use.  

Light has to be first thing we look at because it’s the most important element of any portrait, whether inside or out! It doesn’t matter how gorgeous your subject is, what beautiful backdrop you use, or what lens you have on your camera - if the light isn’t good, then you’ll have bad photos.

And remember, bad light is one of the things you really can’t fix in editing, so it’s really important to get this right when deciding where to set up your at-home natural light studio! 

The light we will all have available is natural light, so for your simple home studio, you need to find a room or area that has a lot of natural light available. 

Your first option is to choose a room that has a large window - any large window will do, but a patio door where you have floor to ceiling light is ideal, and that’s my preference when shooting indoors. 

But your natural light at home studio doesn’t have to be in a room in your house - I often set mine up in the garage! 

It has beautiful natural light because of the large doorway, plenty of space (or at least it does after I turf my husband’s motorbikes out) and I can hide the clutter with my backdrop.  So for me, I either use my living room or the garage, depending on how I’m feeling that day. 

Another option is to use a doorway with natural light, for example, your front door - simply open up the door and use that as your light source! 

I am not going to talk about dedicated studio lighting in this guide, because that’s a whole different ball game, but if you do feel you might need a little bit more light, you also have the option of supplementing the natural light with a speedlight - I don’t often use this but it’s nice to have as backup.

(Not sure how to use a speedlight? Check out Speedlights Simplifed! I’ll have you off and running with one in a couple of hours)

One more thing you might want when it comes to lighting is alarge reflector - the size of this will depend on the subject, but you want this as large as or ideally larger than your subject.

Step 2: Consider the SIZE of the location

The beauty of having a simple set up for studio portraits at home is that you can mix up where to set everything up!

So in addition to your light source (a.k.a finding a space for good light) there are few things to consider when it comes to choosing your location. 

The first is, we generally don’t want to have the light hitting our subject from the front, so aim to have the light source at a 45 to 90 degree angle from where you are going to place your subject.  This will give you a nice soft flattering light. 

The second thing is you are also going to want to have enough room to leave some space between the subject and the backdrop, and from you to the subject. 

So in addition to considering the light source in the room,  make sure you have enough room to set everything up. 

I find when shooting indoors that I stick to head and half body shots rather than full body shots (unless they’re only little!) but our rooms aren’t particularly large! 

So when choosing your location, think both in terms of light, and of space.

Step 3:  Choose a backdrop or find a blank wall 

If shooting in a room indoors, all you need is a blank wall! Take any paintings or framed pictures off the wall, and remove anything from the shelves like plant pots or ornaments. We want to keep the area behind your subject clutter free. (Ever seen a studio portrait with last night’s dinner in the background or a picture of your Aunt Ida? Nope, neither have we)

However, it might be difficult to find a blank wall right behind where you should place your subject, which is also in a good place in relation to your light source.  (Getting the two together is lucky!)

This is where you can use a portable back-drop, which will create that blank wall behind your subject wherever you want it! 🙌

You have several options here, again all the way from the free to the expensive. 

Let’s start at the zero cost options. 

First of all, you can use a bedsheet - not a fitted sheet which has those elastic bands at the corners but a flat bedsheet. These can be plain or patterned, and any different colour. 

They do tend to be a little thin, so maybe doubling these up for your backdrop is a good idea, but see what your sheets are like.  On the plus side, these are really inexpensive and probably something that you already have several options with!  You can also use things like quilt covers, or blankets in addition to bed sheets. 

(One little tip: if you are using a bed sheet, make sure that you iron it to get rid of any creases, and that it’s big enough for your intended purpose!)

Moving onto paid options, you can get rolls of vinyl in all types of patterns from marble to wood grain effect, or a brick wall, floral patterns, and so on, and you can get plain ones too.  You also get muslin ones fairly cheaply. 

A slightly more expensive option, and the one I use, is a seamless paper backdrop. 

These are just very wide rolls of super sturdy paper, and they come in a wide variety of colours, and you can get plain or patterned.  I personally prefer a plain backdrop - you can always add a pattern or texture in Photoshop to mix things up and change out the look each time.  These can vary in price -this one from Kate is just $35 to the higher end Savage Seamless Paper rolls.

I also would recommend getting one in a neutral colour as that can be used for a wide variety of images - I particularly like my Savage Thunder Grey one, but whatever works for you!

As for the size, I would recommend the 107″ rolls. The 53″ rolls are okay if you are working with a newborn or single subject … or a very close pair of subjects that don’t mind squishing together and staying still.  I just like the freedom of the 107″ width so if you have the room, go for it, if you don’t, the 53” is fine. 

Step 4: Use something to hold up the backdrop! 

The next thing you’ll need is something to hold up the backdrop. 

Again, these range from the super cheap to uber expensive!

The first cheap and cheerful option is to simply take your backdrop and pin it up on your wall if that’s an option and you simply wanted to hide the wallpaper or change the colour out.

Another option is to take 2 dining room chairs, and drape the fabric over them. (You can put a pole of some description, like a sweeping brush between them if you need a bit more width that the chairs give you!) This won’t work for portraits of full sized people (great for newborns or food photography though!) 

The next is to do what I did, and buy a super cheap set of backdrop stands. These come with 2 stands and a pole connecting the two that you thread through the roll of backdrop paper, or clip your fabric onto. 

These are so portable, so you simply fold them up and pack them into a bag when not in use!

The downsides to these being so portable (and let’s face it, cheap) is that they are super flimsy, and you’ll need to weigh down the base of the stand with something.  Or, again, if you’re really serious about this, you can invest in a more sturdy set of backdrop stands.  You can get ones that hold multiple rolls, so these are great for quickly changing out the backdrop. (you can see an example here)

If you want to go down the DIY route for your backdrop stands, I’ve seen these made out of PVC pipe, so if you got the time and inclination, that’s an option too.

The final thing you need here is a set of pony clamps - you clamp these onto the top of the paper roll to stop it sliding down.  These are usually included in your stand kit though.

Step 5: Flooring

If you are going for headshots and half body shots only, you don’t need to worry about this - you can glide over this and go straight to Step 5.

But for pictures where you want the full body, you’ll see the floor, so you need to think about that too. 

Of course, if your floors are nice enough,  you can just use that! Job done ✅

If not, the next option is simply to pull out the backdrop even more so you have a seamless wall to floor look.  (That’s generally what I do because I’m lazy)

Again, if you’re taking this more seriously, you can create a fake wooden floor. 

Go to your local hardware store, and get some laminate flooring, such as faux wood. You might also want to get a large piece of plywood and laid the click together faux wood flooring on top of the plywood for stability. 

I would also recommend buying some white baseboard / skirting boards, and then roll the paper down to meet the baseboard, clamping it on both sides with the pony clamps.  That will give you a fake wall trim between your backdrop and the fake flooring. 

Step 6: Props

Finally, to make things a little more interesting, or just to mix it up a little, you can bring in some props.  

These are totally optional, depending on what you are shooting, and of course how simple or dramatic you want to be! At the simple end you could add a flower garland for your subject to wear, or a simple old weathered chair or apple crate for your subject to sit on to add some texture,  or just bring in a soft fluffy rug. 

At the more stylised end, you could add in fluffy white clouds, a moon, or Valentine’s Day heart balloons, or a Christmas tree..…you get the idea!

Step 7: Start Shooting! 

OK, so we have our location, we have our light, we have our backdrop, and flooring, and maybe some props. 

Yippee! We’re ready to start shooting!

Some tips for you:

Make sure that you pull your subject away from the background, ideally around 6 to 8 feet; this is so you don’t get shadows on the backdrop. This makes shooting in the average room in a house very, very tight.  For me, I end up shooting with my subjects closer than they should be to the background and having to watch carefully for any undesirable shadows. 

With it being a little tighter, you might also (probably) end up shooting with a wider angle lens than you would normally. I big puffy heart my 135mm for portraits outdoors, but there’s not a chance of using this indoors, so I usually have on my 50mm for any studio style portraits. Sometimes the 35mm and 85mm make an appearance too, depending on whether I’m going for a headshot or a more full body. 

So there you have it - how to take studio portraits at home!

I hope you’ve enjoyed hanging out with me again today, and maybe you feel inspired to create your own makeshift studio at home!

Links & Further Reading

]]>How to Take Studio Portraits At HomeWhy You Need To Focus On Your Own Photography Journey For Faster GrowthPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 21 Feb 2023 11:23:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/the-art-of-focusing-on-your-own-photography-journey5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:5a9ddf960d9297a082feafa7

When I first started learning photography, and for a long while beyond that, I would spend a lot of my time looking at what OTHER photographers were doing.

I would search for interviews to see what lenses they used, I would scour blogs for information, or go into forums or groups to ask people for help, for quick tips or tricks.

At this point, you might be thinking “What’s the problem with that?! I do that too!”

Guess what - I’m going to tell you 😀

The problem is, when you are not getting advice that is tailored to where you currently are in your photography journey, it can actually do more harm than good.

Many times, it can send you down completely the WRONG path for where you are right now, as you try to skip ahead without having laid any of the foundational steps first.

It’s probably easier to explain with examples, so let me  give you some from my own photography journey, so you can see when this might happen...

Some examples for you….

Let’s say I would see an interview in which one of my favourite photographers would say that finding your photography style was incredibly important, as that was when you would start to produce work that felt like yours and that resonated with you or others.

So I would rush in and get straight to work trying to figure out my style…..

...before coming to the realisation that I actually didn’t have any of the basics down that would help me CREATE images of a certain style! I didn’t even know enough about light or composition (never mind editing) so finding my photography style shouldn’t even have been crossing my mind at that point!  I just didn’t have the skills to do it - even if I could have figured out what it was at that stage :-) 

Or maybe I’d mention in a forum that I was having problems with color, and someone would recommend calibrating my monitor - when actually what I really needed to focus on at that point  was learning about white balance: the FOUNDATIONAL step of learning about color.

Or I would see a comment that said that back button focus would be the answer to all my focusing problems….and then I’d run off to try THAT without understanding all the other more fundamental (and quite frankly, vastly more important) aspects of focus, and wonder why the heck it wasn’t working!

As a result I spent a lot of time worrying about what everyone else was doing, and trying my hardest to play “catch up” with them all, and all that happened was I ended up feeling like I was failing. 

My advice to you,  young grasshopper...

If I could give you one bit of advice it would be this:

Focus on your OWN photography path, no-one else's.

If you are just getting started in photography, or you have some knowledge but wouldn’t yet call yourself experienced, then you don’t need to worry about finding your photography style just yet. Worry about exposure, about focus, about light and composition, and become a master at those things before you even START to try to figure out how you can put it all together for your “signature style”.

Of if you are asking whether you should toggle your focus points or use focus recompose, or you don’t know about all the OTHER elements that go into focus (or are sitting there right now thinking “what elements would that be then?!”) then using back button focus will not be the answer to your focus problems.  Back button focus is nothing more than assigning a different button on your camera to activate focus, so without those other foundational elements in place, it’s not going to help you very much (sorry!)

Rather than just tell you what NOT to do, I also want to help guide you along the path you SHOULD be on. So be sure to grab a copy of my FREE 90 Day Photography Learning Blueprint. It’s a complete roadmap for you to follow that shows you exactly what you need learn to get great photos, and has links to further reading in each one. This little PDF is worth its weight in gold, so go grab it now (you’ll kick yourself in about a week if you don’t!)

And if you are using Lightroom, but thinking that, actually, you aren’t getting the kind of images you hope for, and maybe you should switch to Photoshop instead (because that’s what your fave photog uses) then - you guessed it - switching programs is not be the answer.

You need to learn how to EDIT first, and how to look at an image to see what it needs, and then you’ll realise that LIghtroom can probably do most - if not everything - you need! In other words, it’s not the program, it’s the user :)

When taking advice from anywhere or anyone: whether that be from your favourite photographer, in a Facebook group, or even in a blog much like this one, I want to you to keep in mind where you are in your photography journey, and where they are in theirs (or in the case of a blog post, who is it geared toward).  

Every single person is at different stages along the photography learning path, and I know that many people can forget what it is like waaay back there at the beginning of your photography journey, when everything is new and there is everything to learn, and give tips and advice that would be better suited to you when you are a little farther along your own path.

Please note that most of it the time it’s not wrong or bad advice, and it was given with love and the best of intentions, but it’s just not RIGHT advice for where you are now.

How to focus on your own photography journey.

Believe me, I totally get how difficult it is for you to focus on your photography journey when you are surrounded by information.

We live in a world where there has never been so much easy access to information, from places like blogs, Facebook groups, forums, Instagram and Pinterest….yet all that happens is we feel overwhelmed and bombarded from every corner.

What’s more, all the free information in the world won’t help a jot if you are not aware of what you need to know now, and what you don’t!

The best advice I can give you is to try your very, very best to FOCUS.

Try to block out the noise of the online world, and focus on where you are now, and the NEXT step in your journey. 

Filter out the (currently useless) information so that you only focus on that next step - not ten steps ahead because that’s what I happen to be posting about on the blog that week, or what someone has linked to in a group, or a comment you saw on Facebook. 

I can tell you this: if you keep getting waylaid by different things, then it will take you 10 times as long to learn photography. Worse, you’ll probably then discover that although you have a lot of information in your head, because you have missed out on all those little teeny tiny nuggets of wisdom that makes the whole lot come together and actually make sense, you’ll still feel like you are not “getting it” but can’t figure out why. (that was me!)

The shortcut to great photographs is not is a set of hidden tricks, or getting a quick tip that is going to make everything look amazing: It is about about learning the steps in a logical and linked path.

 It’s about taking the time to truly learn your craft - and the surprising thing is, when you commit to THAT, instead of endlessly searching for something that will help you get there faster or cheaper, you’ll find that your photography path actually shrinks and you’ll get there in half the time. Pinky promise. 

Here are some ways I can help you based on where you are in your photography journey:

If you are a new photographer, grab your FREE 90 Day Photography Learning Blueprint,

If you are ready to focus on learning manual mode, click here to read 10 things you’ll wish you knew about shooting in manual mode and save yourself some time.

If the time has come to focus on editing (and Lightroom is your editing program!) click here to get my Lightroom starter kit, which has all you need to get started with Lightroom, plus an editing checklist.

And if you just want me to lay it all out for you, step by step, and not waste any more of your precious time trying to figure it out on your own, check out my online learning courses here.

]]>Why You Need To Focus On Your Own Photography Journey For Faster Growth4 Photography Tools That will Make Your Life 10 x EasierGEARPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 14 Feb 2023 10:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/4-photography-tools-that-will-make-your-life-easier5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:5eeb43b22a7db1305c7c92e8

My husband has not one, not two, but three areas for his tools - the garage (where no cars are apparently allowed!) a shed at the back of the garden, and a “lock up” where the bigger and least used tools are.

But I only ever seem to see him use about 4 of the tools from them on any regular basis!

Which is the same in photography - although there are many shiny objects competing for our attention, there are only 4 that I would say I really recommend for you to get when learning photography.

These are the ones that I think will make the most difference both in terms of improving your photography skills, but also in just simply making your life easier, or saving you from frustration and headaches!

So without further ado, let’s jump in!

White Balance Tool

A white balance tool is something that you use in order to set your white balance in camera. You can buy loads of different tools, from grey cards at under $10 to the Expodisc at around $50.

All do the same thing - they tell your camera what neutral looks like, so that the colour tones of your image are correct.

Why this is so helpful, and therefore make your life easier, is because you take away any guesswork as to what the correct white balance is. No more wondering if your image is too yellow (or is it too green?!) or too blue when in post processing, because you have set the white balance perfectly in camera.

It also means that you learn to “see” colour correctly - something that all of us are usually pretty bad at when we first start out in photography!

Once you can eyeball an image and see where the white balance should be, then you can do away with using these if you wish, but they are a great tool to use when starting out (and beyond!)

Fast Write Speed Memory Card

Have you ever taken a series of images, and then not been able to press the shutter to take any more images for a minute or two? That’s called buffering, and it’s due your camera needing to “catch up” with writing the images from the sensor onto your memory card.

Just to rewind a bit here in case that’s confusing - when you press the image, the image is “pressed” onto the camera sensor. It then takes that image and “writes” the data for it onto a memory card, so that you can download it and view it on your computer.

Of course, it takes a little time to write that data over, but one thing that can impact how fast it can write it is the write speed of your memory card.

Cheaper memory cards may look like a bargain, but they tend to have slower write speeds…..which means that if you are taking a lot of images in quick succession (usually in something like burst mode) your camera just can’t write the data onto the card fast enough to keep up with you :)

They are a bit more expensive, but worthwhile if you take a lot of action shots, whether that be of racing cards or toddlers.

(Here’s a couple of examples for you! SanDisk Extreme PRO 16GB or Sandisk Extreme Pro 32 GB CompactFlash (CF) Card)

A “Fast” Lens

The final tool that I recommend is getting yourself what is known as a fast lens, or fast glass. It sounds pretty dang impressive, but really, it just refers to a lens that has a wide maximum aperture.

Rewinding a little bit for any new photographers, the aperture is the “hole” in your camera lens that allows light to pass through to your sensor. The bigger the hole, the more light gets in. So a wide aperture such as F1.4 (in other words, a wide hole!) will allow you to let more light in than an aperture of F5.6.

The kit lens that came with your camera probably has a variable aperture, meaning that the maximum size of the aperture changes depending on whether you are zoomed in, or zoomed out. The maximum apertures tend not to be very wide either, something around F3.6.

Given that many lenses simply aren’t sharp when all the way open, you can often find yourself needing to shoot at around F5.6 for sharpness….and that doesn’t let a whole lot of light into the camera via your aperture, which means you need to increase your ISO number (leading to more noise!) or slowing down your shutter speed and possibly introducing motion blur.

What a fast lens allows you to do is open up your aperture more, so you can use a lower ISO, and/or use a faster shutters speed - hence the term fast glass!

Basically, a fast lens will give you more options and leeway with your settings, especially if you shoot indoors AND your subjects move around (as most kids do!)

If you are not sure which aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings you should be using, you can download my FREE manual mode cheat sheet to help!

You can pick up a fast lens relatively cheaply (You can get the Canon 50mm F1.8 for $125), but I would also consider buying a second hand version of these lenses - many, many people buy these as their first lens after the kit lens, but then go onto upgrade them, so there are some very lightly used lenses that you can buy which is more cost effective (especially since YOU might also go onto to upgrade them at a later date!)

An almost universal first lens is the Canon 50mm F1.8 or the Nikon version of the same, but you could also look at a 24 or 35mm, especially if you shoot indoors.

You can read more about the difference between a 35mm and a 50mm here.

The Photography Plan from Adobe

When you first start out in photography, I know that you want to do everything as cheaply as possible, and not spend money on editing software. I get it, I really do.

But a worthwhile investment is the Photography Plan from Adobe at $10 per month. For that you get 3 amazing programs - Lightroom Classic, Photoshop, and Lightroom CC.

The one I’m most interested in talking about for this post is Lightroom Classic, because it is the workhorse of all three.

Lightroom Classic is an end to end photo management application, that allows you to do EVERYTHING in one single application. I know that doesn’t sound sexy, but you will use it to organise, manage, edit and share your photos. By using one tool to do everything from tagging your photos so you can find them again, to editing your photos, to creating photo books, you will save yourself so much time and mental bandwidth.

And of course it is one of the best RAW file editors on the market!

It seriously is such a huge, huge timesaver (and the one thing you can never get more of is time, so I guard my time above anything else) that I cannot recommend it more highly.

I know when you start out you might not think this is for you yet, but trust me, one of my big regrets was not starting with this program, and trying to use others to do the job more cheaply - and it cost me waaaay more in the long run, and most importantly, lost literally months of time. Get it right from the very, very start of your journey if you can, and I promise you will thank me in the long run (or maybe you won’t, because you’ll never know the hell of trying to organise 4 years worth of photos and the numerous copies of each photo you end up with!)

Of course you also get Photoshop which is just an AMAZING program that will allow you to really get creative with your images, and if you need it, Lightroom CC so you can sync some of your photos to the cloud for remote working (if you want to - I don’t use it)

So there you go! 4 tools that will make your photography life 10 x easier.

Over to you!

Let me know in the comments below - do you agree with this? Is there anything that you use that you would consider a huge time or headache saver? Let me know in the comments below!

P.S Don’t forget I have that lovely little bonus for you, that manual mode cheat sheet. Click on the image below to grab your free copy.

]]>4 Photography Tools That will Make Your Life 10 x Easier4 Reasons You Should Be Editing Your Photos (and how to do it) EDITING TUTORIALSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 07 Feb 2023 13:10:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/4-reasons-you-should-be-editing-your-photos-and-how-to-do-it5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:5895d2b3be6594f5caa0434f

If there is one thing that comes up again and again when we talk about photography, it's EDITING - the steps you take AFTER you have pressed the shutter and uploaded your images.  It's a whole other world of things to learn and master and as such it can be quite overwhelming for new photographers. 

Because it's yet another thing you need to add to your "to learn" list, it can be tempting not to bother doing it, or slap a action / preset on and call it a day.  However, editing your images is an important part of the photography process and one that I believe you should at least start to learn as soon as possible. 

In this post I'm going to share exactly WHY you should edit your images, what you should be thinking about, which software you should use, and the order in which you should learn everything in. 

Ooooh, that sounds like a lot to get through! Best get started then :) 

Let's get this post started properly, kicking off with the reasons WHY we want to edit our images. Personally, I think it's always easier to start to get to grips with something when we understand more about why we should do it - so if that is you too, read on. 

#1 - Your images always need to be processed, it’s simply a question as to whether you do it, or the camera does it. 

When you take an image, your camera captures it is the RAW file format - and this is regardless of whether you have your camera set to shoot in RAW or JPEG. 

If you have it set so that you shoot in JPEG, the camera will take this raw file, add saturation to the colours, apply some contrast and noise reduction, along with a bit of sharpening and maybe some other stuff too. It will flatten the file, and process it to give you a JPEG file. 

Although that sounds just dandy, just like shooting in AUTO, it's not the best option for getting images that you love.  That's because our camera doesn’t really have a freakin’ clue what you’ve just captured, or even whether it really needs any of that editing applied.  It doesn't know whether it would look better with less contrast or whether the amount of saturation it has applied is just making that colour cast on your subject's face worse. All it can do is blindly apply a pre-set level of editing, shrug, and hope for the best.  (OK, so it doesn't actually shrug, but if it could, it would. Honest.) 

On the other hand YOU can process the image.  You switch to shooting in RAW, and the camera leaves the editing alone.  You can then apply the contrast, saturation, sharpening – but at the level YOU like and what the photo NEEDS. 

(Not sure how to edit your photos based on what it actually needs rather than just random slider pulling?! Then check out our Edit Like A Pro in Lightroom Classic course - this will teach you a full end to end workflow that takes away all of the guesswork!)

That’s why I always recommend that you shoot in RAW – so that you can have full control over the editing process. Again, just like shooting in manual gives you the most control over how your image is captured in camera, so does shooting in RAW and processing the image yourself in editing. 

#2 - Because it gives you a second chance to get it right.

The second reason is simply that you might not get it right in camera. Although we should always strive to get it right when taking the picture, no matter how good you are there are times when you are going to stuff up a little. 

For example, you might muck up the white balance, or the exposure, or not see that trash can in the background that’s ruining your shot because it's behind your subject. Editing can be a way of getting a second chance to get the image the way you would have wanted to capture it in camera. 

Although you can edit a JPEG image, it's generally considered easier to edit a RAW file instead.  That's because the raw file format gives you more latitude than editing a JPEG, as it captures a larger tonal range - handy when you have under or over exposed.  It also allows you to change the white balance preset easily - something again you can't do with a JPEG. 

(If at this point in the proceedings, you are thinking, "heck, I need to switch to RAW!", here's the post to help you do it) 

I just want to add in a little caveat here though - don't think this means you can photograph however you want and you can just fix it or make it into a brilliant image in processing. Whilst you can make some changes, there are some things you WON'T be able to do, like bring back focus on your moving toddler,  bring back blown highlights or make an uninteresting image into a work of art.  Get it right in camera, but be safe in the knowledge that if you are not 100% perfect, no-one need ever know 🤐

In this image below I've stuffed up the exposure, to the point where I HAVE actually blown the highlights, but in processing, I can bring that file back to life. It may not be perfect, since I totally stuffed up in camera, but it's better than the delete bin for photos you otherwise would have loved. 

In my course Edit Like A Pro in Lightroom Classic the very first editing steps I teach you is how to do a "clean edit", which is basically getting your image to a point where you have great overall exposure, white balance, contrast and clarity.  

It's the basic foundation for ALL good editing, so never miss this part out or it doesn't matter how good the rest of the editing is, it will always fall flat. 

If you’re ever felt like you’re just randomly pulling on a slider but you don’t know how much to move it by and so on, you will seriously LOVE this course!

(If you’d love a framework that can help you with your editing, then be sure to download our FREE Lightroom Classic Starter Kit - in addition to a guide to importing, and an exporting cheat sheet, you’ll get our simplified editing checklist to help you on your way!)

#3 - So you can tell a story  

The third reason to edit your photos is because editing is another way for you to tell your story, or get across what you were trying to capture when you took the photo. 

That's because what you capture in camera sometimes does not accurately reflect that moment.  Firstly because we might not get our settings quite right in camera, but also because you can enhance a mood or a general feeling in processing that you will never really be able to fully capture in camera.  

For example, you may not feel you have accurately captured the warm hazy feeling you felt that late afternoon on the beach, in which case, some processing can help enhance and create that mood. Or you may wish to emphasis the moodiness of a portrait, or a feeling of nostalgia - although this can be done to some degree when shooting, a lot of this comes from how the image is edited..  

You also might want to bring out a certain aspect of the image to bring the viewers attention to it, and this something that can be done or enhanced in post-processing.  Again, this is something that we go into in a lot of depth in my Edit Like A Pro in Lightroom Classic course, because you do need to know both WHAT to look for in your image, along with the steps that show you HOW to do it.  

#4 -  It can help you develop a style

Editing is also another way you can put your own personal stamp on an image.  Of course, it's not just editing that allows you to do that, but it is another way of making your way of viewing the world stand out, or have a certain feel that makes the image feel like "you".  

Now, when you first start out there can be a tendency to be all over the place when it comes to editing your images. A matte effect here, a high contrast image here, a black and white with a sepia tone there, all topped with a bright saturated image with a film effect as the cherry on top.  If that's you, don't worry - it can really, really be fun to experiment with different editing styles and it is, without doubt, a great way to learn how to edit.  I heartily recommend it so you can find out what you like and what you don't like. (Heck, I still enjoy a play with my images!)  So, don't worry too much that you haven't "found your style" yet. As you get more familiar with editing, and see what you find yourself doing most to your images, it will become apparent. Generally speaking, your style finds you :) .  

Once you have found your preferred editing style, you can use this consistently to have a common "look" to your images. 

What editing program should I use? 

There are a number of programs that you can use to edit your images, based on your budget and your goals for your photography. 

The one I recommend is Photography Plan from Adobe.

With this you get both Lightroom Classic and Photoshop!

Lightroom Classic is a fantastic photo editor, but has the added advantage of being an end-to-end management system for your images. I know that sounds totally dull, but trust me when I tell you it is incredible for saving you time processing and managing your images. (You can read 8 reasons why I love it so here)  It's also super quick to edit multiple photos.

The other good thing is that with the Photography Plan from Adobe you also get Photoshop which is a complete game-changer for editing your photos.

So for a mere $10 a month, you will get Lightroom for your image management and the majority of your editing, and you'll also get access to Photoshop which means you can do advanced editing and the pixel editing stuff when you need to.

Where do I even start?

The best thing to do for learning how to edit your photos is to break it down into much more manageable steps, and don't try to run before you can walk.  

First off, switch to RAW and then simply learn how to get that RAW image looking like a JPEG one.  Simple adjustments for sure, but the first step is really about you taking control and learning what everything does.  (If you are using Lightroom, also check out my post How to Get Started With Lightroom, which walks you through some basics of Lightroom) 

Then, move onto adjusting the image to get it the way you would have wanted to capture it in camera - white balance correct, exposure correct for the scene, no obvious or distracting noise (unless you want it) and removing any unwanted elements.

(Remember that I do have that totallyfree Lightroom Classic Starter Kitto help you with this)

After you are being able to do that, move onto some basic enhancements - playing with color and contrast, and starting to make smaller adjustments that you can build up, before taking it further by learning creative enhancements to affect mood, such as color toning or converting to black and white, and learning how to pull your viewers eye around the frame. 

Finally, fine-tune your editing so that you have a consistent style and feel to your images, regardless of the editing steps.  

In a nutshell, get the foundations right first, then layer the rest on.  So many people swoop into trying more creative edits when they don't have the foundations right, and then feel like their  images never look as good as they thought they would, or worse, they look over edited because they have been randomly following tutorials without thinking about what the image NEEDS.

If you want a step by step program that will show you EXACTLY how to edit your images from beginning to end, then check out myEdit Like A Pro in Lightroom Classic course. It covers everything you need to know to help you get your images to be more engaging and have wayyy more impact, along with ALL other the other stuff Lightroom can do too! 

Links & Further Reading

The Photography Plan From Adobe

Edit Like A Pro in Lightroom Classic

Lightroom Starter Kit (FREE!)

Podcast Episode 7 - Finding Photography Style

The 7 Deadly Lightroom Sins and How to Avoid Them

]]>4 Reasons You Should Be Editing Your Photos (and how to do it)6 Different Types of Camera Lenses (and when to use each one)PHOTOGRAPHY TIPSGEARPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 31 Jan 2023 14:20:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/different-types-of-camera-lenses5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:5add34f9352f5382880a746d

One of the things that used to REALLY confuse me when I first started learning photography was all the different types of camera lenses that were available,  which one I would need, and when I would use each one!

So as I’m willing to bet this bamboozles you too, I’ve put together this post that should make it all seem a damn sight easier to understand.

It breaks down the different types of lenses you can get, the variations you can find within that, along with suggestions for when you would use each one. 

Let’s dig in…

#1 - Standard Lenses

Let's kick things off with STANDARD lenses.

Standard lenses have a mid-range focal length, somewhere around 50mm - but really anything between 40mm and 60mm. The most common focal length is the one that falls slap bang in the middle of that - the 50mm. 

This focal length on a full frame camera will give you roughly the same field of view as the naked eye - It’s not exact, but it’s a pretty good rule of thumb.  Basically this means when you lift that camera to your eye, the scene won’t seem “zoomed in” or “zoomed out”, so it will look quite natural, and have no distortion.

So, when would you use a standard lens?

These are great all rounders, mainly because they most closely mimic what we can see naturally, so you don’t have to worry about it being the “wrong” lens for the job.  Some concrete examples would be:

  • Portraits

  • Street Photography

  • Indoor Photography

  • Landscape Photography

That doesn’t mean it is the “ideal” lens for any of these (in most cases, you will get other lenses that can do the above better) but rather that if you only want one lens that can adequately cover a full range of situations, a standard lens is your best bet 

If you go with a prime 50mm lens, one of other the big plus points is they aren’t usually too big or too heavy (they are juuuuust right) which means they are great to throw in your bag for a walkabout lens, or to take with you when you go on holiday.

#2 Telephoto Lenses

Telephoto lenses have a LONGER focal length, and they magnify the subject, allowing you to take photos of subjects that are farther away. 

Generally, a lens is considered telephoto with a focal range above 60mm, but you can probably further categorise a telephoto range into a “mid-range” telephoto which is around 70mm to 200mm, and then “super-telephoto” which is anything over 200m, like a 300mm or 400mm. (aka Paparazzi stalking territory)

When would you use a telephoto lens?

Because they can be quite cramped indoors, you are best to use a telephoto lens outside, especially when you have some distance between you and your subject.

They are also incredibly flattering for portraits, as they slim down the face ever so slightly, and give great background blur, helping separate your subject from the background.

(You know those images that look like their subject is "popping" off the background? That's usually down to using a telephoto)

You’ll also use these for times when you simply can’t get too close to your subject, such as for shooting wildlife or sports.

So here are some areas where a telephoto lens is damn useful:

  • Portrait Photography (particularly mid-range telephoto)

  • Wildlife photography

  • Sports Photography

  • Astronomy

  • Where you want dreamy background blur

As the focal length goes up, so does the weight and size of the lens, so at the far end of the super telephoto range, you are going to need to use a tripod, or seriously increase your gym workouts. As a result, they are not that great for going on a long walkabout with, as they can get really heavy very quickly, and they can be cumbersome - especially if you have a zoom telephoto.

#3 Wide Angle Lenses

Wide angle lenses are the exact opposite of telephoto lenses, as with these you can fit MORE into the frame than a standard lens - in other words, everything looks zoomed out. 

The focal length for a wide angle is pretty much anything below 40mm. 

The smaller that focal length number, the more you will be able to fit into the frame, but also keep in mind that the more you fit in the frame, the more distortion you are likely to get.

Also, any lens with a focal length less than 20mm is generally referred to as a fisheye lens, which gives you an almost 180 degree field of vision (making it look like you are taking an image from inside a fishbowl - hence the term!) 

Because of the distortion you can get,  wide angles aren’t particularly great for individual portraits, but they can be fab for group photos, or for lifestyle and environmental shots. 

When would you use a wide angle lens?

Anytimes when you need to fit more into the frame - so cramped interiors, or large group shots, or to include a whole landscape. 

They also help you give a more inclusive feel to an image - in other words where you want the viewer to feel as if they were standing right in the scene when they look at the photo.

Some concrete examples of when you might want to use a wide angle:

  • Landscapes

  • Interiors

  • Large group photos

  • Lifestyle / Documentary images

  • Street Photography

  • Architecture

  • For an inclusive feel

As a general rule, if you go for a prime lens for your wide angle lens, they are also fairly small and lightweight, so they make a great walkabout lens.

For some more examples of lenses and what to use when, be sure to download my Which Lens Kickstarter Guide too - it’s totally free and will show you different images with different lenses, and when I would use each one.

#4 Macro Lenses

Macro lenses are for close up photography.  They have a 1:1 ratio, which basically means they can capture your subject at life size magnification. 

So if you want to capture the teeny tiny little details of a flower, an insect or water droplets (or the  details of anything else for that matter) then you’ll need a macro lens. 

That doesn’t mean you can ONLY use your macro lens for close up photography - the longer focal length and excellent sharpness and contrast means that they take supremely beautiful portraits too. My macro lens gets used for both in equal measures making it a good all round purchase (or so I keep telling my husband) 

When would you use a macro lens?

  • Nature photography

  • Insect photography

  • Portrait Photography

  • Detail photography (eg ring shots if you shoot weddings) 

You can learn more about macro lenses, and how to choose one in this macro lens buying guide (along with some cheaper suggestions in case you don’t want to spend all your $$$ on a dedicated macro lens)

#5 Prime Lenses

Once you have an idea of the focal ranges of the different types of camera lenses, you then need to decide whether you are going for a fixed prime lens, or a zoom lens.

Primes lenses are those that have a fixed focal length such as 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, 135mm and so on. They do not zoom in or out, so you have to physically move yourself closer or farther away from your subject.

They generally can shoot a lower apertures, such as F1.8 or F2.0, and therefore are great lenses for letting in more light, and also for creating background blur, especially if you have a telephoto lens. 

Finally, prime lenses tend to give you sharper images, and better overall image quality than zoom lenses.

#6 Zoom Lenses

Zooms allow you to change through the whole focal range of the lens, just by turning the barrel, so you can zoom in and out to fill more or less of the screen. 

You can get either get a variable aperture zoom, where the maximum aperture will change whether you are zoomed in or out, or fixed aperture zoom lenses, where you can stay at the same aperture throughout the focal range.

The benefits of a zoom is simply that you can get multiple focal lengths in one handy dandy lens! This means they can be great if you only want one lens, and they can useful for shooting things like weddings, or sports, when you might need to zoom in or out and can’t necessarily get up off your seat to do it!

The downsides is that they tend to more expensive, heavier to carry, and don't have quite the same image quality as you get from primes.

As you can see there are pros and cons to both primes and zooms, so to get a better idea of which is best for you, cast your eye over this earlier post Zooms vs Primes to get more explanation of the differences between the two, and what to think about when making your decision.

So there you have it, 6 different types of camera lenses, and when you would use each one!

So, after reading this, which of these focal lengths do you find yourself hankering after, and why?

(answer; all of them!)

As always, if you enjoyed this post, or think that others may benefit from it, please share! Either pin to your Pinterest boards, or share on Facebook or Twitter. Sharing helps keeps blogs alive, so thanks if you do xx

Links & Further Reading

]]>6 Different Types of Camera Lenses (and when to use each one)How to Find Your Unique Photography Voice & StylePHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 24 Jan 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/4-tools-to-help-you-find-your-photography-style5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:63be93ca5e8c9363d2e4701e

As photographers, we’re often told that we need to “find our photography style” but let’s face it, it can be a daunting task!

Since this often isn’t a concrete thing that you can grasp hold of, learn how to do in a tutorial, or have someone else show you, how do you even start to find your photography voice?  

That’s exactly what we are going to look at today!

I’m going to give you 4 tools that you can use to help you find (or refine) your unique photography voice and style…

Tool #1:  Look at other photographers work

Note that I said look, not copy - we definitely don’t want to try to “steal” other photographers' work and say that’s our own photography style.

The idea is simply to draw inspiration from other photographers you like, rather than simply imitate them. 

If you use Pinterest, you could create a board and start pinning photos you love. If you’re more of an Instagram user, try saving photos you love from the various photographers I’m sure you follow on Instagram. 

Instead of trying to copy the styles you see, instead, think about what it is about it that appeals to you, and see how you could fit that into your own work. 

For example, I do actually like a lot of the light and airy photographs you see online, even though many of them can look a bit cookie cutter. For me, I don’t want my photographs to look exactly like that, but what I do love from that style and what I try to take into my own work is the simplicity of it.  It’s nice and clean and minimalistic.

Another photographer I love uses the colors in her images in such an important way, and it taught me that as much as I love simplicity, I like to have a bit more color in my work! 

Another photographer I love shoots almost exclusively in black and white. That doesn’t mean I need to shoot exclusively in black and white, it’s more that I love the way she plays with light and shadow. 

And I love yet another photographers work because it is so ethereal and dreamy, which has inspired me to find the beauty in the mundane, even though her work is all portraits. 

So I’ve taken what I loved from photographers I admire - simplicity, clean colour tones, good use of light and shadow and finding beauty all around us - without copying anyone. 

So create a board or a saved folder - whatever works best for you - and start to see what it is you like about these photos you admire, without trying to copy each one.

Tool #2 - Look at what’s already around you

As I said before, you don’t suddenly become a completely different person when you pick up a camera, instead, you are bringing your own unique perspective, personality and experiences to your photos. 

What do you like to do with your time? Are you best suited to loud parties and socializing, or do you prefer smaller, more intimate groups?  

What about the clothes you wear - do you gravitate toward bright jewel tones that you wear together,  or do you wear bold prints, or are you more classic or muted? Do you wear flowing dresses or jeans and flats?

Look at your home. Is it warm and cozy, bright and bold, or calm and serene. What colours do you have? Do you have lots of sentimental Knick knacks everywhere or do you like your spaces to feel more minimalist.   

I know that by looking around you at your home, your clothes, your surroundings, where you like to be, how you like to socialize and your favorite things to do - they can all help you see the direction you perhaps should be heading in with your photos too.  At the very least, it can help you see if there is a disconnect between what you think you want to be your style, and what the rest of your life is telling you. 

Tool #3 -  Go through your OWN work

I’d also like to challenge you to create a portfolio of YOUR favorite work, especially if you have been shooting for a little while. 

Go through all of your images and pull the ones that were favorites or that evoke an emotion in you, even if they are not the most technically proficient ones. This isn’t the time to be critical of focus or having the perfect composition, we’re really looking at the big picture here.

Once you’ve selected your favorites, grab a pen and paper and jot down the reasons why you liked them. What it is about them that spoke to you? What colors do you see showing up? What light? What emotions? Where are they taken? Is there some type of editing you do that you love on some images?

What we are looking for is consistency between them!

Tool #4 - Shoot from the heart

Maybe this goes without saying, but I’ll say it anyway…

The key to infusing your voice into your photos is to shoot from the heart. 

Often you get stuck in thinking too much about what you should be shooting,  or what you think others would want to see from you,  or what they might think, so much so that we forget to shoot what WE love.

Social media influences us in many ways, and as much as it can be a force for good, it can also hinder us as photographers. It can make us second guess our work, compare ourselves to other photographers, and shoot for other people rather than ourselves. 

Like many of my fellow photographers, I still find myself doing that today, so I’m willing to bet many of you do the same, whether you fully realise it or not!

Remind yourself of why you picked up a camera in the first place. 

In fact, imagine you are shooting EXCLUSIVELY for yourself.  If you were the only person to ever see your photos, what would you shoot? What risks would you take? What would you not care about? 

Above all, remember that there is only one YOU in the universe.  Our unique blend of insights, personality, fears, experiences and desires inform who we are as photographers.  

As a photographer, you just need to give yourself the space and time to figure out how to infuse your photos with YOU!

When you might find all this hard….

One thing I want to stress before I go, is that I do feel that being able to find your voice and style is about 1000% easier when you understand the HOW behind photography.  I’ve always said photography is part technical and part artistic, and it’s hard to be artistic and soulful with your photos, when you don’t have the technical knowledge that will allow you to put that into practice. 

That’s when it’s easy to feel disheartened because what you were intending to create is different than what you actually created, because you don’t have the skills to bring your vision to life.   

We do have some free classes that can help you with all aspects of your photography, from mastering your camera, to light to composition and even editing, so be sure to check out the links below where I’ll link to some of them for you, and be sure to subscribe to our email list so you can hear about the ones we have coming up too!

LINKS & FURTHER RESOURCES

FREE DOWNLOAD: Mastering Natural Light Guide

]]>How to Find Your Unique Photography Voice & StyleThe 10 Step Checklist for When You Get A New CameraPHOTOGRAPHY TIPSPODCASTAudrey AnnTue, 17 Jan 2023 11:00:00 +0000https://livesnaplove.com/blog/10-step-checklist-for-new-camera5373b147e4b0e5824b359a50:5373b35ee4b0c4a5e90e3c3e:63b8007f2f763d2405feaf03

If you have a new camera, you’re going to want to change from the factory settings that your camera is pre-set with, so you can get the best photos you can! 

In this blog post, I’m going to share with you the 10 settings that I personally change when I get my hands on a new camera,  so that I have my camera set up exactly the way I want it. 

If you’ve been shooting a while, and have just upgraded to a new camera, you can simply use this checklist to make sure you remember everything!

If you are new to photography, then don’t set your camera up in exactly the same way until you are sure that you know how to use each setting correctly! Simply consider this as a checklist of settings you might want to learn more about.

Are you ready to dive in?!

If so, let's kick it off with the first thing on my menu which is…

#1 Change Image Quality to RAW

I always change the Image Quality from JPEG to RAW. This is because I want to have the full range of tones in the image available, so that I get the most control over editing my image. 

Plus,  I don’t want the camera to make any editing decisions for me, I want to do that myself, so shooting in RAW gives me the power to get my images looking exactly the way I want it! 

I do recommend shooting in RAW if you can (and you have editing software to edit your images) because you have that control if you need it. 

If you want to read more about the difference between RAW and JPEG, be sure to give this post Raw In Photography a read!

#2 Change White Balance to Custom

I always move white balance away from the AUTO setting, and will usually set this to custom, so that I can set my own white balance with my Expodisc.  

I want to make sure that the colors are right in my image, so I don’t like to use AWB as that can often get it wrong, particularly when shooting indoors.

I do recommend setting a custom white balance, as this can make all the difference to your photos! 

#3 Change Metering Mode to Spot

I always use spot metering, or at least I do 99% of the time, so this is another must for me!

This means that my meter will show me the exposure level for a single area of the image that I select, which for me, is often the skin in a portrait, but I use it for other types of images too. 

If all these terms are confusing for you, you’ll want to download my FREE photography guide and starter kit! If you are learning photography it’s worth it’s weight in gold, so be sure to download it  here.

#4 Turn On Highlight Alert

I always turn on my highlight alert - this lets me see any areas of the image that are clipped when I’m setting my exposure, so that if it’s too bright in certain areas, then I can adjust my exposure before I start shooting away! 

If you shoot Sony, this is one area where they are called something different - it’s called the zebra pattern, but it works in exactly the same way, it’s just called a different name. 

#5 Image Review

Although I don’t look down at my screen after every shot, I do like to be able to quickly check my exposure, so I always have image review turned on, and I have it set to 4 seconds - that’s usually enough time for me to access the image, and make sure that everything is the way I want it before I keep shooting.  

You can also change this with most cameras so that you can see the histogram when shooting too. 

#6 Screen Brightness

I don’t do this right away with a new camera, but I find that on most DSLR or mirrorless cameras, the screen brightness is set way too high, and can throw me off my game when it comes to exposure.  

So I normally take this down a level, and then what I see on my screen more accurately reflects the true exposure. 

#7 Set Back Button Focus in Custom Controls 

I like to use back button focus, so I always go into the custom menu, and change out the  buttons for focus. 

I remove focus from the shutter button, and assign that to the AF-ON button instead. 

One of the first episodes here on the podcast, episode 3, is actually all about back button focus, so give that a listen if you want to know more. 

The What, When and How of Using Back Button Focus

#8 Change AF Method to Single Point Focus

Staying on focus, I’ll also set my AF method to 1 point AF.  

This allows me to choose the focus point instead of my camera, which is really important for getting sharp images,because otherwise the camera is going to pick the focus point for me, and that may not be exactly where I want it to be! 

#9 Servo AF - Multi Purpose Setting

Remember at the beginning I said I would set my camera up in the same way for a rebel or other entry level camera? This is the only one that you won’t have access to if you have an entry level camera. 

My camera has different “case settings” for focus, but I leave it on Case 1 multi-versatile settings most of the time! 

#10 Drive Mode

This one maybe isn’t as crucial as the others, but I always like to change my drive mode too. 

By default, most cameras will be set up for single image shooting, which means every time you press the shutter button it captures a single photo. Even if you keep your finger down on the shutter button, it will still only record one solitary image. 

So I change my drive mode to continuous. In this mode, your camera will continue to take photos for as long as you have your finger pressed down on the shutter release button - or at least until your buffer fills up.  This is really useful for action shots, when you might not be able to press the shutter at exactly the right moment - having continuous mode on means you get a burst of shots, which can help you nail that perfect moment. 

Your homework!

As you know, I like to make my posts actionable, so I've got a little homework for you to do! 

I want you to think about the settings that I’ve mentioned here, and whether you could benefit from making those changes with your camera. 

If you use something different, and you know why you use it, then go ahead and continue with that - my settings aren’t magic settings, they’re just what I use after shooting and experimenting for 13 years. 

But if you are starting out, and some of these settings don’t mean anything to you, or you’re still using the auto version of that setting (for example, having the camera set the focus point, or using evaluative metering on your camera) then consider this a little list of things to start to learn. 

I would also recommend that you download my free Photography Starter Kit and Guide - it’s going to go over a lot of these things for you, and give you a reference guide so you know what you should be learning. 

I really hope you enjoyed this post and it’s given you some ideas about what to change on your own camera!

Links & Further Reading

Raw In Photography

Free Photography Starter Kit and Guide

The What, When and How of Using Back Button Focus

]]>The 10 Step Checklist for When You Get A New Camera