Lost In Cheeseland

La Chandeleur | Crêpe Day!

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 04:00:00 +0000

One of the things I adore most about the French is that they pair food with almost any religious holiday, even if it doesn't really make much sense.

February 2nd is the Catholic holiday of La Chandeleur (Candlemas), which commemorates the presentation of baby Jesus at the Temple but is perhaps best known in France as crêpe day. What's the connection between the two? Unimportant.

The Epiphany brought us sweet Galettes des Rois to ease us into the new year and so naturally February should bear buckwheat and millet crêpes to properly pave the way for an early spring. A far more delicious version of Groundhog's Day, you might say.

Tradition maintains that in addition to flicking out thin, fastidious crêpes to welcome the new season, there are several tricks that can be performed to ensure happiness and prosperity in your home: hold a coin in your writing hand and a crêpe pan in the other. Flip the crêpe into the air and if you catch it in the pan, you will be prosperous. Hooray! If not, you just made a mess.

Typically my husband prepares crêpes from scratch (let the native prepare what he knows best, I say) but this year we're tasting some of the best the city has to offer. We got an early start on the holiday with dinner at Chez Imogène last night, a charming little neighborhood place that takes the business of crêpe-making very seriously, right down to the traditionally Breton menu and ciders.

If you find yourself in Paris for La Chandeleur on Thursday, hurry yourself to one of the authentically Breton crêpe spots below or make some yourself following these recipes :

Chez Imogène
25 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011
01 48 07 14 59

Reservations highly recommended

Little Breizh

11 rue Grégoire de Tours, 75006

01.43.554.60.74

Breizh Café

109 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003

01.42.72.13.77

{RECIPES}

David Lebovitz: Buckwheat Crêpes

La Tartine Gourmande: Millet and Chestnut Crêpes

Chocolate & Zucchini: Crêpes

How will you be celebrating?

Franco File Friday: Adam of Paris Patisseries

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 05:00:00 +0000

There is very little Paris Patisseries readers know about its opinionated author aside from the fact that he loves Paris and has a voracious sweet tooth. In fact, there is no "about me" section to Adam Wayda's site or any indication of what he's doing when he's not eating his way through some of the city's most celebrated pastry shops. Nestled nicely between layers of pastry cream is a hint of mystery - about his life and his work - and I find that makes Adam's meticulously maintained site all the more unique, leaving us to wonder what triggered his exacting search for the best of French pastry.

For all that he doesn't reveal to us he makes up for in almost ascivious food close-ups and behind-the-scenes glimpses at some of the hottest sweet spots in town. But does his Francophilia go beyond croissants and macarons?

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Love of craftsmanship. This is a country that has national honors (the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France distinction) for everything from pastries to lute-making and corsets. It’s hard not to enjoy being somewhere with an unrelenting insistence on – and deep respect for – quality.

Favorite French pastry?

Even though I technically have 30 or 40 favorites, my #1 is Jacques Genin’s Tarte au Citron. You’d think after eating hundreds of different pastries from the finest Parisian pastry chefs that I’d be in love with something more exotic than a mound of crème citron in a simple pâte sucrée shell, but I believe it’s the finest pastry I’ve ever had.

As a little context for how Monsieur Genin’s tarte could be so amazing, keep in mind that he’s only written two cookbooks in his life. One is about his chocolate recipes, and the other is 80 pages devoted just to his Tarte au Citron, complete with poetry, quotes and assorted musings on lemons. The tarte is his masterwork. The mindblowing harmony between the sweetness, acidity, and lemon tones is enough to wow me, but it goes to a whole other level when you factor in the textures of the crème and shell together. On a scale of 0-10, where 10 is perfect, it’s at least an 11.

Your go-to spot for a savory meal?

You mean not all food is made of sugar, cream, fruit and/or chocolate? Seriously, I’m way too busy eating pastries and candy to go out to a real dinner. I literally buy enough sweets during the morning and early afternoon so that I not only have éclairs, tartes, macarons, marshmallows and more well into the night – but also have at least one pastry waiting in the fridge for me in the morning. This is a 180 degree turn from my very vegetarian/vegan, organic, rice-milk, non-sweet diet when I’m in the States.

Truth be told, during my last 6-month stay, I did go out to dinner . . . once. And that was because William Caussimon, head chef at Un Dimanche à Paris and former right-hand-man of Guy Savoy at Les Bouquinistes, got mad that I kept coming to Un Dimanche only for the pastries. He and owner Pierre Cluizel invited me to the restaurant for a going-away dinner, just a few days before I returned to the U.S.. It was quite an amazing meal, and since it was the only one I’ve had in Paris in at least two years, I guess that makes it my go-to spot by default ;)

Don’t you ever get tired of just eating pastries and candy?

Well, the thing is that I’m so sweet-deprived by the time I get to Paris that I love the first two weeks of bingeing. Then there’s about a 4-6 week span where the protein deprivation, lack of fiber, etc. are in full effect. It’s physically unpleasant on a lot of fronts. After that, it’s smooth sailing. I don’t know whether it’s because my body acclimates or because it lapses into a state of learned helplessness.

Preferred Paris neighborhood?

The Saint-Sulpice area of the 6ème. Strategically, it’s important to me, because it’s within a few blocks of a half-dozen of the most important pâtisseries. The other major shops seem to fan out in all directions from there, too. So whether I stay in the neighborhood with Hugo & Victor, Pierre Hermé, Sadaharu Aoki, and La Pâtisserie des Rêves, or want to head all the way out to Carl Marletti, Des Gâteaux et du Pain, Café Pouchkine or Jacques Genin, I’m in a perfect central spot.

On top of the convenience to pastry shops, it might be the most beautiful area of the city. The Luxembourg Gardens and Saint-Sulpice itself are right there. You’re within blocks of the Boulevard Saint-Germain, the Latin Quarter, tons of great cafés and everything else, too. It’s also really easy to pick up a metro line there that shoots right into any of the other cool neighborhoods.

Most frustrating or amusing encounter with the French?

This is a tricky one, since I generally find the French very polite, non-frustrating, and no more prone to quirks than any other nationality. That said, the one thing that does drive me nuts – and I think this applies to anyone trying to speak their non-native language – is how people react to you speaking their mother tongue.

At one end of the spectrum are those who think you do a great job with their language. They seem to understand everything you say, remark at how impressive your accent is and just love to see an American put forth some real effort. Then there are others – and I mean people I speak to frequently – who delight in picking my pronunciation and grammar apart. I even had this one guy tell me I was saying “marron” (chestnut) when I said “macaron”, as if that’s not the #1 word I’d never mispronounce. My French friends just tell me I say it very fast, like I speak English, hence the confusion. So I guess my frustration with French encounters is that I need to very deliberately enunciate.

*****

Thanks, Adam! Fan of macarons? Be sure to check out his riotous post: Parisian Macaron Crimes and Misdemeanors)! Follow his indulgent adventures on Paris Patisseries and on his Facebook page.

{Photos courtesy of Adam Wayda)

Playing Tourist in Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:36:00 +0000

It has been six years since I was a legitimate tourist in Paris. Impressionable young eyes, tennis shoes and far too much color in my wardrobe to blend in with locals - I set off for six weeks of discovery. Three days after my arrival, I met Mr. C and headed right into a routine of seeing Paris as a local. This meant I did very little of traditional newbie visiting - map reading, monument hopping or macaron tasting.

I still saw the major attractions, took long walks along the Seine, picnicked under the summer stars and battled locals for terrace-side seating at forgettable cafés but I did so without following guide books or blogs. The trip opened my eyes to the possibility of a future in Paris with a Frenchman rather than to the city's best bakery or wine bar. I was staying in an all-female dormitory (a foyer) and never had the hostel/hotel experience which offers a vastly different perspective of the city.

Since that summer, I've been living in a cozy (operative word for crowded) apartment in the increasingly gentrified 11th arrondissement and, as you can tell if you've been following me, have become more selective in where I eat and more interested in the people behind my favorite haunts. The only time I do remotely-touristic things is when friends visit and even then, nothing we do is very novel.

You can imagine my excitement, then, when I was offered a gourmand weekend in the capital, complete with a one night stay in the posh La Trémoille Hotel followed by Context Travel's culinary walking tour, 'Baguette to Bistro'- led by none other than Meg Zimbeck! An opportunity to see the city through impressionable eyes again and a weekend en amoureux? Not much coercing needed.

{LA TREMOILLE}

What I loved most about the demure hotel, aside from its coveted location just off of avenue George V in the Golden Triangle, was that despite modern fixtures and a trendy lounge bar and restaurant (Louis²), La Trémoille really retained an air of old chic. I felt its rich history immediately upon entering the lobby where I was greeted by two fantastic black and white photos - on the left, a shot of the hotel from the 20's with its former entrance and on the right, Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong waving to fans in the street from their balcony. The decor was charming and unpretentious, luxurious but accessible and we were treated famously throughout our stay.

Isolated from the bustle of the Champs-Elysées, La Trémoille provides a zen-like escape. In fact, I was most looking forward to the quiet. Our balcony gave us a stellar view of the Eiffel Tower sparkling each hour and a glimpse of the breathtaking lofts across the way. As much as I feel like I'm beyond the point of falling for her charms, Paris still has the ability to stop me in my tracks. A view like this, though just a taste, reminds me how lucky I am to live in this city.

In addition to the Ladurée macarons that were kindly left on our nightstand, we were offered two glasses of champagne and a tasting of Maison Kaviari’s l’en-K de Caviar©. Little details in the Food Lovers package that made us feel pampered. In all of our travels, this stay offered by far the best service, attention, quality and comfort.

{BAGUETTE TO BISTRO}

After a hot shower, a good night's sleep and a morning feast, I embarked on the Baguette to Bistro tour with my docent, Meg. To really know a city, its values and its history, it's rarely necessary to look further than its food. Culinary tours have always struck me as a natural extension of getting a feel (and) taste for a city on foot but as a local, I've never been inclined to sign up. What more could I possibly learn about Paris and food? Loads, it turns out.

Our indulgent and informative tasting tour on the left bank began at Eric Kayser, a bakery that has received countless accolades both locally and abroad, where we discussed the difference between various baguettes. What may strike you as insignificant between breads - soft and light-colored, dark and packed with crunch, little holes on the inside - is actually the result of a very controlled process and largely a question of yeast. Kayser is perhaps best known for having invented the Fermentolevain machine which maintains natural liquid leaven at just the right temperature.

Cheeses: goat, comté, brie de meaux, brie de melun, truffled brillat-savarin, roquefort, munster & ossau-irraty

We talked about the requirements for a bakery to call itself "artisanal" as we strolled down the street a few steps to Androuet to add some cheese to our bread. An outstanding selection of cheeses lay before us and I immediately felt overwhelmed. I'm generally not a fan of the ultra-creamy and pungent variety but Meg assured me that a proper tasting - moving from mild to strong - might surprise me. She was right. I confess it was my first, official cheese tasting and certainly not my last.

I left having learned that goat cheese isn't currently in season (who knew?) and that I am, in fact, fond of the truffled Brillat-Savarin, a 75% fat, triple cream brie created by Henri Androuet and named after 18th century French epicurean, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. I almost preferred it to the sweets that followed on our tour.

A full belly and a greater understanding of why the French hold cheese so close to their hearts and it was time to leave the savory behind.

The next stop was Ryst-Dupeyron for a tasting of Armagnac. While my amateur throat may have felt ravaged by those first drops of brandy, I simply adored the owner's enthusiastic stories and explanations. Her warmth and genuine passion confirmed why I prefer to shop with small businesses and artisans and her little dog Vergule (comma) added even more charm to the experience.

Feeling slightly more digested, we made our way to the last two stops of our tour: the mousse bar at Chapon chocolatier and La Patisserie des Rêves. Some of the most excellent chocolates I've ever tasted came from Chapon that evening but nothing compared to the mousse-cone you see above. Tubs of five varieties of sinful chocolate mousse line the window display and stop passersby in their tracks. It was decadent, excessive and absolutely fantastic. A must for any chocolate lover in Paris.

I had my misgivings about La Patisserie des Rêves (literally, the pastry shop of dreams). Widely hyped since its opening in 2009, Philippe Conticini's whimsical space breaks with traditional codes both in decor and dessert. I had seen photos of his immaculate creations enclosed in temperature-controlled glass domes suspended from the ceiling like protected jewels and I wasn't convinced I'd appreciate the experience. The shop felt impersonal and off-limits at first but I was willing to give it a chance. One bite of Kouign Aman and my perspective changed. But it was a piece of tarte au citron, perfectly tart, that hooked me. A delicious end to an incredible 24 hours.

I cannot recommend a culinary tour highly enough to those in Paris or those planning a visit. Thank you to La Trémoille, Meg Zimbeck and Context Travel for giving me such an amazing experience. Trips to the left bank are about to become more frequent!

La Trémoille Hotel has partnered with Context Travel to offer guests a mini culinary getaway . For more information and availability, click here.

For more photos from my hotel stay and walking tour, click HERE and HERE.

La Trémoille
14 rue de la Trémoille
75008, Paris
+33 (0)1 56 52 14 00

Franco File Friday: Sion Dayson

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 03:30:00 +0000

Of all the expat bloggers I know in the community, Sion Dayson was the first I met long before we entered the virtual world. A mutual friend with whom she worked in New York introduced us and what struck me about her from the start, aside from her full-bodied, vibrant laugh, was her somewhat tumultuous relationship with Paris; something I understood far too well. That's probably why I immediately liked Sion so much - she didn't pretend Paris was something it wasn't. She unabashedly spoke of Paris's power to isolate us, trample our confidence and even drain creativity, all packaged behind a romanticized veneer of whimsy.

But once Sion began penning Paris (Im)Perfect, her tune improved. A talented writer, Sion found inspiration in areas of Paris she had previously neglected and redirected her energy to a novel she began writing a few years prior. The city, with its complications and perennial highs and lows, proved to be a most fruitful setting to fuel her imagination. Perhaps even more so than her beloved New York. But that's part of what makes her impressions of life in France, good and bad, all the more interesting.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Enriches my perspective.

My initial reaction to this question was to list many of the usual suspects – beauty, culture, health care, pain au chocolat.

But when it comes down to it, what I love most is how my experience has expanded. Learning a new language, decoding different social cues, navigating stubborn bureaucracy, creating a new life where at first everything felt foreign – that’s a recipe for growth if ever I heard one. France both frustrates and delights me. Living here helps unearth many discoveries, not just about this country – but also about myself.

How does living in France inspire your work?

Believe it or not, I went through a long period where I actually felt that Paris was crushing my creativity. There is such a deep literary history in this city, which of course should be inspiring. But I think that fact actually inhibited me for a while – just what in the heck did I have to add? There’s no more futile road than trying to measure yourself against others, much less legends.

Once I got through some of the challenges I described above, I realized that while it may sound cliché – American writer in Paris – we each experience the world uniquely. We all have stories, but only I can tell mine.

Both confronting the difficulties and now feeling quite comfortable here offers a nice opportunity, I think. Embracing the possibilities of being an outsider/insider. For example, I see the United States more clearly now because of my distance. And equally I’ve absorbed certain ways of being that are a direct result of living in France. This sort of evolving bicultural negotiation provides fertile ground for my writing.

That being said, Paris can still be a hard place to work, what with all the temptations and distractions. One could easily never sit down to write!

Part of the city that sparks creativity the most?

I just published an essay a couple weeks ago that speaks to this in part. I live near Père Lachaise cemetery, which is not only a popular tourist site, but a local favorite, too. But I wasn’t at all drawn to it for a long time. All those graves – depressing!

Then something clicked one day, and now I find it such a meditative place. Each of those gravestones honors a person, a human being who led a whole, precious life. The sheer number of stories makes the head spin. Strolling through Père Lachaise both clears my mind and makes it wander…

Any part of the city can – and does – spark creativity, though. That is the magic (of both Paris and the very nature of creativity). As long as eyes, ears, and heart are open, the world can astound at any second. I never know where an idea will ignite. It may just be some small gesture, or the expression of someone in a café. I love when suddenly the ordinary seems to transform into the extraordinary.

Favorite spot outside of Paris to relax and recharge?

Hmm, relax and recharge. I don’t do that often enough! When I leave Paris there’s always the hard choice – go back home to visit friends and family or discover a new destination? I try for the balance. I love how trains and low-cost airlines make travel so easy in Europe. Istanbul, Budapest, and Lisbon are a few of the cities that really moved me.

I do love getting back to New York, though. The energy there is still unmatched by anywhere else I’ve ever been. I miss that dynamism sometimes and a visit always fills me with a good dose.

I would like to discover more of France, too. For a couple summers I rented a gite in Bourgogne and it was a great way to disconnect and unwind. I have friends in Aix en Provence, soon in Marseille, who also introduced me to the Auvergne region which I didn’t know much about. It’s always nice to have friends in the south of France!

Most frustrating or amusing interaction with the French?

I’ll go with amusing, as I like ending on a positive note (but I have many frustrating stories up my sleeve if you want to hear them sometime!)

When I first moved here, I barely spoke French. Yet somehow in less than a month I found myself in front of many French people teaching Pilates. I can’t imagine what the words I was saying actually sounded like to them.

To complicate matters (as if teaching in a language you barely speak isn’t enough!) Pilates was rather new here, so trying to tell people to “pull their navel to their spine” or “engage their core” when those weren’t even concepts they had heard before made for some interesting moments. I’m pretty sure the students couldn’t tell half the time whether my crazy instructions were because I couldn’t speak French (true) or if that’s really what I was trying to say (also true).

After several months someone finally told me that every time I tried to say the word immobile (as in, keep your hips immobile), I always said immeuble (building) instead. I might or might not also have confused baisser (as in lower the legs) for baiser (as in, ahem, a very crude proposition). There I was, naively demonstrating the exercises and yelling encouragements: keep your hips building! Hump your legs!

Though I’ve gotten my fair bit of grief for my less than perfect French, that class also showed me how kind people could be. My French literally skyrocketed by having to talk my way through that class week after week. No one laughed at me. They helped me, suggested new words. Smiled back.

Seemed they thought the crazy American was kind of charming, too.

*****

Thanks, Sion! For more linguistic and cultural blunders, check out her Faux Pas Friday series and follow her on Twitter: @ParisImperfect for updates on life and writing in Paris! For more information on her work, visit www.siondayson.com.

{Photos: Sion Dayson}

Blend: Gourmet Burgers in Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 17 Jan 2012 04:45:00 +0000

If a Californian burger truck in Paris doesn't fit your style of dining there's yet another (sit-down) burger joint to have joined the wave of American comfort food imports. I realize that in telling you about Blend, three weeks fresh on the market, I'm revealing just how insatiable my cravings are for burgers. Insatiable and perhaps erring on the excessive.

Some of you might ask why it would even be worth seeking out a burger place in Paris if you come from a country that does them right. I think it's always interesting to try familiar cuisine in other countries because the interpretation is often remarkably different. I love taking Mr. C to French restaurants in the States because many times, we both find ourselves blown away by the American take on French classics.

My motivation to try Blend a mere day after returning from China went beyond a desire to wean off of my dumplings and noodle diet. I wanted to go because it was a friend's big debut. You might remember in Camille Malmquist's Franco File Friday feature that I mentioned she was slated to become the pastry chef for Blend before year's end and after several months of baking and testing, she donned her uniform for the opening. She's in charge of buns and blendies (their name for desserts!). I couldn't pass up an occasion to get my mouth around a homemade hamburger bun, especially after seeing all the teasing photos on the restaurant's facebook page.

The space in the 2nd arrondissement is diminutive in stature, like the burgers - perfect for tamer appetites. The meat (beef or veal for the time being) is sourced from esteemed Paris butcher Yves-Marie le Bourdonnec and blended with cheese and other ingredients prior to cooking, making modifications impossible. Fortunately, they have two veggie options with equally veggie buns (spinach or tofu) for more those aiming for ultra-lite. Keeping with the homemade ethos, the fries - regular or sweet potato- are hand cut and lightly salted; a necessary component to the meal.

The meat and fixings were juicy and messy, as they should be, but it was the briochey bun that set off fireworks. Given that we're used to eating jumbo burgers, we both still felt a little hungry after our meal and opted for one of the last remaining pieces of cheesecake.

The speculoos crust is perfectly catered to the French while a hint of lemon lends unexpected tart to an American classic. It was the sweet finish we needed.

The owners experienced some inevitable newbie frazzle so we waited quite a bit to receive our order. They apologized profusely and chatted with customers about their menu, hinting at things to come. These petites blended burgers don't come cheap but the space is fun and the flavors are right.

BLEND
44 rue d'Argout
75002, Paris
Métro: Sentier/Etienne Marcel
Online orders coming soon!

Click HERE for Camille's blog!

*This article was started before My Little Paris featured Blend in one of their daily email newsletters. Good luck getting a table!

Franco File Friday: Meg Zimbeck of Paris By Mouth

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 03:30:00 +0000

Anyone in Paris with an internet connection and a love for dining out knows and follows Paris By Mouth, a collaborative food website edited by renowned food writers, yet little is known about its founder, Meg Zimbeck.

What brought her to Paris seven years ago was not, however, the food scene but rather a job managing a European public policy research project. She quickly found herself immersed in travel and acutely aware of the extraordinary foods around her, unlike anything she had tasted in the States. Her culinary curiosity motivated her to compile a database of restaurants and shops which eventually became the skeleton for PBM which she developed with the help of fellow foodie Barbra Austin. Almost two years later, the site continues to be at the forefront of all Paris food news and regularly features reviews by Dorie Greenspan, Alexander Lobrano, Clotilde Dusoulier, Patricia Wells among other experienced hands.

Today, this erudite foodie, writer and docent brings us some of her favorite spots in Paris and reveals Paris By Mouth's latest hot new project. It's an honor to introduce you to Meg!

Describe what you love about France in three words.
Bread, wine and cheese, the so-called "Trinity of the French Table." These are the three things that I would miss terribly if I ever left France. Here in Paris, one can find incredible baguette, cheese and wine (pastry, too) for not much money. It continues to blow my mind that I can buy a fermier cheese for a few euros, an incredible baguette for just over €1, and an good bottle from a trusted wine shop for less than €10. Back in the States, these are luxury items not available to the masses. In France, they're still priced for everyone to enjoy. One can't say the same about French restaurants in Paris, where one generally has to spend €30 in order to understand the fuss.

Favorite spot for a bite of traditional French fare in Paris?
I still, after seven years, carry a torch for Le Bistrot Paul Bert. From the slightly cracked and peeling decor to the chalkboard menu to the brusque service, it just feels to me like a Paris bistro (for bobos) is supposed to feel. The cooking is lusty and generous, and the wine list never fails to deliver something good. Less well-known is Chez Casimir, the sister restaurant to Chez Michel. They use the same kitchen and same ingredients as the more famous restaurant next door, but charge €20 less per person. The cheese plate is a killer, for those who are interested in fromage.

For visitors with limited time, what shouldn't be missed and what should be skipped in the capital?
I'll focus here on dining, and say (with great sadness) that the Paris brasserie no longer holds any appeal. I'll gladly retract that statement if anyone can show me a brasserie that isn't a corporate-owned tourist trap. The restaurants that we've selected as Editors' Picks are a much better bet, but the vast majority require a reservation.

Food minded visitors with limited time should book their tables in advance (asking their hotel concierge for help, if necessary) and save the spontaneity for afternoon strolling. There's nothing more depressing than prowling hungry in the streets and ending up in a soulless dive that serves microwave meals to tourists. For those who want a concentrated dose of delicious, we offer tasting tours through some of the city's most gastronomically gifted neighborhoods. In a three hour session, visitors can quickly gain a sense of why the food is so very special in Paris. That, and maybe a pound or two...

Best reason to brave the cold and visit France in the winter?
Fewer visitors = less competition for restaurant reservations! One still needs to reserve, but it's a lot easier to book Frenchie in February than in June. The airfare and hotels are also cheaper during this time, leaving more money for essential items (see question #1).

Most amusing encounter with the French?
I arrived in France speaking very little French, so there were many mistakes with the language. Perhaps the most amusing took place at a bicycle shop, where I was trying to buy a bell. The young man at the counter was helping other customers to assemble their purchased items. I was hoping that he could put the bell on my bike. So I said "bonjour, "c'est possible de me monter?" Eyes around me widened, jaws dropped, and the man responded "you're not shy." What I should have asked, had I known anything about direct object pronouns was "c'est possible de la monter pour moi?" What I did ask was if he could mount me.

****

Thanks, Meg! Meg and Barbra make one killer duo. If you aren't already following Paris By Mouth, shame on you! The site acts as an invaluable resource for travelers and locals both in their daily updates and their active discussion forum. Planning your next trip to Paris? Don't miss out on one of Meg's tasting tours! You can also follow Meg's edible exploits on her own eponymous blog.

Twitter: @Parisbymouth

Facebook: /parisbymouth

{Photo credit: Jens Boldt}

Lost in Shanghai and Beijing

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 17:41:00 +0000

Ever since we boarded the Swiss Air flight back to Paris I've been trying to process our experiece in China. Two drastically different cities - Beijing, the cultural and administrative epicenter and Shanghai, the "showpiece", China's financial hub and modern metropolis - both of which felt completely foreign at times and oddly familiar at others. Yet unlike my feelings of dépaysement after a mere three days in Istanbul, I wasn't quite so moved by either city. My expectations were high before arriving - I was going to be transported, culturally jarred, I thought. After all, it was my first visit to Asia (with a capital A).

But I wasn't. I was, however, fascinated by the people and the culturally driven characteristics that defined them. Sitting in the front seat with taxi drivers while fumbling through the handful of expressions I had memorized to explain our destination, bargaining with vendors at the fabric market, interpreting complex and pages-long restaurant menus, and navigating the metro (miraculously unscathed from all the elbow jabs) put us face to face with so many different people whose daily lives I tried to imagine.

After a few unjudicious decisions, being accosted by a couple of over-eager girls looking to practice their English and French over a few beers (or so they said... our friend in Shanghai said it sounded to him like the start of a scam) and encountering friendly anglophones, one of whom kindly directed us to an amazing semi-clandestine noodle restaurant we were struggling to locate, it was clear that what excited me most were the interactions with people we met along the way (as strained as they may have been).

And the dumplings.

We heeded Ann Mah's dining recommendations in both cities and are grateful we did. Din Tai Fung's dumplings were simply outstanding (we went to their Shanghai location), we had stellar service at Made In China (Beijing) and loved sitting around the circular bar at Noodle Bar for front-row action of the chef pulling our noodles by hand.

People and food aside, there were other elements that contributed to making this an eye-opening experience. For the sake of organizing my thoughts, these were some of the other things that struck us most:

| Western and yet... not
Despite all visible signs of Western influence - from big box stores, fast food establishments and clothing brands - I couldn't help but think of all the articles I read before and during our trip about Chinese censorship, countless arrests of dissident lawyers and human rights activists, and the government's draconian family planning measures.

It was this dichotomy - what we saw and what we know/are told - that makes visiting both cities so intriguing. Regardless of whether locals agree or disagree with government control of Western media penetration, they're rabidly consuming Western imports.Someone asked me if it felt Communist. Aside from experiencing the internet limitations, we were shielded from anything blatantly oppressive or dissonant.

| Transportation

The subway is exceptionally clean and highly monitored. No unusual or fetid odors linger in the halls and no build-up of grime-dust balls or pockets of trash line the floors. Even the smallest stations had handfuls of employees checking handbags in security, picking up trash, shoving people into already packed subway cars, selling tickets, and fixing the slightest paint blemish. Compared to Paris and its lack of available staff, the Beijing and Shanghai subways were like luxury liners.

Unfortunately, luxury comes at a price. Locals do not wait for passengers to get off the train before they start aggressively elbowing their way in to the car. No one sighs or fights back as is custom in Paris. No, they are conditioned to resist stampedes.

| Hygiene + the split-pants phenomenon

An indelible image from our first few days in China: parents helping their adorable little boy relieve himself on a busy street by removing the flap to his pants. He was sporting a pair of split-pants where the seams open up in the front and the back to allow for bathroom breaks wherever and whenever the urge should strike (without wiping). Ultimate convenience, perhaps, but questionable hygiene. (Photos of these split-pants in action here)

| Air Quality
It really is as bad as you read, though far worse in Beijing. Yesterday's Le Point magazine reported about the thick, yellowish fog that greeted Beijingers as they awoke yesterday morning - a cloud of pollution that exceeded dangerous levels. Understable, then, why spitting is so commonplace!

We were beset by a dour veil of pollution and gloom wherever we went in both cities, save for a day or two of sunshine in Shanghai which drastically changed our attitude. The gloom in Beijing was thick and the lack of sunshine and glacial temperatures only compounded our impressions of the city as melancolic, lacking the energy and 'cool' that oozes freely in Shanghai.

| Shanghai won us over
That said, it was Shanghai that gradually won us over. Its international cuisine, charming shops, jazz lounges and bars coexist perfectly with its more traditional neighborhoods, markets and museums - there's something for everyone. It's funny, everytime we travel to a new city we inevitably go through the routine of judging it based on whether or not we could imagine ourselves living there permanently. Futile, really, because that's not what most travel is about. Ultimately it was the balance of familiarity and novelty that gave us the adventure we were seeking.

It was an incredible trip that not only shattered certain stereotypes (and confirmed others) but planted the desire to explore much much more of Asia.

**Thank you for all of your recommendations, we definitely used them!

{Check out over 150 more photos from China HERE}
{Top photo taken at Hangzhou, 192km from Shanghai}

France Making it Harder to Become French

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 05:40:00 +0000

Becoming French - no longer as easy as a nap in the Tuileries!

I figured this day would come. It was inevitable when Sarkozy made it four years instead of three that a foreigner would have to be married before being eligible to apply for citizenship. A small detail, perhaps, but a sign that he wanted more control over immigration and the foreign population. Despite having to jump through administrative hoops and produce amounts of paper that would make environmentalists seethe, becoming a citizen for Westerners is relatively easy (particularly if you're married to a French native).

When Sarkozy talks of the necessity for foreigners to adhere to France's democratic values and secularism, he's taking particular aim at the substantial muslim and North/West African population who, in his eyes, do not sufficiently adapt. Now, in what is likely a strategic political move to pull conservative votes away from the National Front for this year's election, Sarkozy and his party are taking action to make it harder to become French. Prior to this month, becoming French required a certain number of years in the country, stacks of documentation, an interview and a lengthy wait. Time-consuming and frustrating but tolerable.

Now, candidates will be tested on French culture and history in addition to their language skills and be forced to sign a charter adhering to democratic French principles and "agreeing not to claim allegiance to another country while on French soil" (The Economist). While I don't take issue with requiring candidates to pass a test - after all, that's part of what is required to become a U.S. citizen - I find the charter to be further evidence of government intolerance. Having foreigners (and not all French citizens) sign a charter of this nature suggests that they are not naturally democratic and this is exactly what Eric Fassin, professor of Sociology at ENS, argues in the video interview (below) on France 24.

Sarkozy claims that the charter isn't movitaved by race or ethnicity but given the widespread struggle with issues of identity and French denegration for people of North African origin in particular, he's not fooling anyone. His disparate messages on immigration have raised eyebrows in the past but will the same be true this time?

This issue has become extremely relevant for me as I am eligible to apply for French citizenship as of August. I'm not concerned with my language skills by any means but I disagree with the reasoning behind the charter and the change in policy. What do you think?

{if reading this article in your email, click HERE to view the video}

**Relevant reading: Chez Loulou covers the details of obtaining a 10 year residency card (which I finally received in December!), a very heplful resource. Click HERE to read.

Shanghai >> Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 11:08:00 +0000

19 hours of travel later on Swiss Air and Shanghai's strikingly modern skyline, lack of central heating, street vendors and toothsome dumplings already feel like something out of a dream. Back to familiar Paris, immediately faced with a callous start to 2012.

I intended to come back full force this week with a new Franco File Friday feature but less than 10 hours after we returned from China, I learned that my grandfather, aged 92, passed away. Loss is never easy to digest but having landed in Paris on Wednesday, emboldened to tackle the new year with gusto, the impact of the news was even more violent.

This is the painful reality of living abroad - I can't console my family in person and they can't console me. Fortunately, I'm not alone and I'm grateful that my husband was able to meet him this summer at our Philadelphia wedding reception. I will be thinking of him and my family this weekend, wishing I could be there to reminisce and properly eulogize the strong, confident man who always told me to eat my broccoli and wear slippers indoors.

I'll also be sorting through my photos from China this weekend (so so many) and will be back next weeek with my thoughts and a new Franco File Friday. Thanks for your understanding, friends.

Paris 2011: a Year in Review

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 03:00:00 +0000

I don't quite know whether to classify 2011 a success, a failure or simply a mixed bag of troubling, joyous, painful and encouraging non-stop action. It was as tough, if not more so, than 2010 but I accomplished so much more and I do think that 2012 is posed for improvement, at least on the health front. Vague, right? A little recap of year 5 in Paris:

January-June

Launched my cookie company, Lola's Cookies!

Started a new job

Saw 2 articles published on Travel & Leisure (this one and this one)

Traveled to the South of France, Istanbul and New York

Became virtually immobile due to a flare-up of my meatball-sized herniated disk just before our trip to the U.S.

Got married again (kind of)

July-December

Laid off from my new job.

Un-laid off from said new job after 5 days in some kind of sick high-stress inducing torture tactic

Began physiotherapy again 2x/week for my back, enlightened French therapist with anecdotes about America

Laid off AGAIN from the same company. Sciatica began shortly after....

Took headshots of Amy Thomas for the author photo in her forthcoming book "Paris, My Sweet"; quickly learned that one of them made the cut!

Made some amazing new friends and strengthened bonds with old friends

Started a new job (part-time) that is completely right for me

Had 2 anti-inflammatory spinal injections, neither proved successful.

Featured on National Geographic Traveler

Had photos published in Singapore's Savour (The Good Life) Magazine and Metropolitan: Eurostar Magazine

Received my 10 year French residency card (enfin!)

Lola's Cookies featured on Design*Sponge

Traveled to Shanghai and Beijing (where I am as you read this!)

You might notice a more positive than negative angle in this year in review but every success carried with it a current of agony. After seeing a number of alternative medicine specialists, I'm finally starting to heal but there remains a massive hill to climb (or limp up) to return to "normal". Having my work featured has marked personal milestones and while I'm endlessly grateful, the greater part of my year was tainted (at least psychologically) by constant, numbing pain. We can't have it all, right?

The reality is, I realized, that every year will be sprinkled with bits of poor fortune and I should stop expecting too much too soon - the year will play out naturally no matter how much I strategize or plan and I resolve to roll with the punches better in 2012.

Wishing you all a spectacular New Year and hope that if you too had a bumpy year, that the road smooths itself out in 2012.

Franco File Friday: Nichole Robertson of Little Brown Pen

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 03:00:00 +0000

2011 has been a good year for so many of my favorite people. Frenetic, stressful, and perhaps even anxiety-inducing but overwhelmingly positive nonetheless. This is particularly true for Nichole Robertson of Little Brown Pen this year who found herself transforming her small business and staggeringly successful blog into a book. Paris in Color will be released by Chronicle Books in the Spring and is the result of days upon days strolling the city (in all weather conditions) waiting for Paris' natural color palettes and themes to catch her eye. Already available to pre-order, Nichole's colorful journey will be a must for all of our Paris-focused collections.

In this last Franco File Friday of 2011, meet Nichole and her Paris.

Describe what you love about France in three words.
Salty, creamy, butter.

What about France do you think continues to seduce people from all corners of the world?
It's a mysterious seduction, no? It's easy to point to food, light, architecture and history, but you could say the same of many European cities. I've tried to pinpoint my own unyielding attraction to Paris, but have come up empty. That's the point, I think. It's like the love I feel for my husband. I could list a hundred attributes (charming, smart, caring, sexy, irreverent), that made it easy to fall in love with him, but it's not comprehensive and never could be.

I like the magic, the mystery and the inability to convey my love for something in words. It's a visceral connection and it's cool. Paris seduces people, and I hope no one solves the mystery.

Preferred time of year to visit? Why?
I love Paris in the winter. The brisk air is invigorating, and it’s fun to duck into a warm, intimate spot to warm up. There's something about wrapping your hands around a warm cup of coffee inside a dimly lit cafe, or waiting in line by the rotisseries and appreciating the heat. I also like walks that require bundling up, and late night strolls when no one else will brave the cold.

Your regular haunt for coffee and people-watching in Paris?
The apartment we rent is on Rue Tiquetonne, just a block from Rue Montorgueil, so we spend a lot of time café hopping there. I'm not tied to one cafe, though, and prefer to try new places. The entire Montorgueil and Etienne Marcel area is perfect for people watching. That said, it's fun to mix it up and go where your whims take you. There's nothing better than walking around for hours, choosing a spot, sitting down and taking in the vibe of a new place.

Favorite French film and/or novel?
Les Liaisons Dangereuses. I love epistolary novels, and the language (though not for the faint of heart!) is delicious. I re-read it often, and sometimes in parts, just to devour the sentences. When it comes to film, I could never decide - I love so many!

*****

Thanks, Nichole! Read my first interview with her HERE, follow her on Twitter: @LittleBrownPen and keep an eye on her blog for new photos and updates. I can't wait to get my hands on a copy of Paris In Color !

Come back on December 31st for an end-of-year recap and enjoy your holidays!

Lost In Cheeseland Goes to Shanghai!

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Mon, 19 Dec 2011 21:05:00 +0000

No, I'm not moving to China but I am making my very first trip to Asia in 6 days! Mr. C and I will be visiting a friend who moved to Shanghai for work and will be joined by other friends from Paris to celebrate the New Year, modern metropolis style. We'll also be spending a few days in Beijing à deux where we hope to pack in enough culture and sight-seeing to last us through 2012.

There will be one last Franco File Friday feature of the year at the end of this week and then you'll see a New Year's recap/resolution/tell-all post on the 31st, I hope you'll stop back for that! In the meantime, I'm compiling recommendations.

I know a trip to China doesn't really fall into the parameters of a blog about life in France but I've shared with you my trips to New York, Istanbul and London and the feedback has been positive. Shaking up Lost In Cheeseland a bit every now and again doesn't hurt, right?

We've got our maps and our French Lonely Planet guides but I want your advice! Do you have any Shanghai and Beijing tips (particularly good eats, things and neighborhoods to avoid, etc.) that might not be in the guide books?

Franco File Friday: Alisa Morov

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 16 Dec 2011 07:17:00 +0000

{Mad Hatter Cake Photo: Carams}

I knew of the French recipe books Meringues and Cupcakes long before I actually met their vivacious American mastermind. Author of three delicious books (most recently Happy Gâteaux), owner of the American dessert company Sweet Pea Baking and co-founder of the underground supper soirée Very Swell, Alisa Morov's story is not all that surprising.

Before moving to Paris almost ten years ago, she led a very different life - one of fashion, textiles and a certain sprawling American west-coast city. Still, baking always played a very important role in her everyday. Two children and a new city later, she found herself thrust into new territory and faced with an open opportunity to develop her passion for baking into something more than a hobby. This is where her story becomes somewhat familiar.

Paris often becomes the landscape for aspiring entrepreneurs/bakers/writers/crafters to flourish and that's exactly what happened to Alisa. She started Sweet Pea Baking in 2006 and after sharing her talents with most of the city, French publishing house Marabout caught on and wanted a piece of the pie. Beyond her roles as mother, author and baker, she proudly calls herself a Francophile.

{Chocolate Fudge Cake Photo: Deirdre Rooney}

Describe what you love about France in three words.
History. Beauty. Food.

Greatest challenge raising children in France?
Probably doing it as a single parent, without the support system of family and lifelong friends.

Favorite French treat and best place to find it?
Ohh, there are so many! How can I pick just one? My first French treat would have to be my answer - the beauty and taste of a baguette, still warm. There's nothing better than tearing off pieces, handing them to people you love and saying "oooo taste that!!" La Maison Kayser and the boulangerie section of La Grande Epicerie are two sources I love but there are many bakeries whose baguettes rock this city.

{Meringues cover photo: Deirdre Rooney}

Inspiration for your cookbook trilogy?
The books were not initially conceived as a trilogy. Sweet Pea Baking & Catering is and was all about knowing how amazing American cuisine can be when executed with the same standards applied to great French, Italian, Chinese cuisines (among others). Sweet Pea coupled with my obsession with creating something new, the books became an extension of wanting to share my cooking; wanting to teach as well as feed.

Inventing the savory meringues for my Meringues book was my biggest thrill. Creating something completely new while referencing something classic is electrifying. It's the art, the joy, the fun, the "oh my god, I just thought of something else I could do with meringues!" moments. Also, I had full control of the look of that book so it's closest to my personal aesthetic.

Most amusing interaction with the French?
Back in 1995, a close French friend was planning a very Toulousain dinner (Cassoulet, saucisson, cheese, etc.) and one of my visiting American friends asked "hmmm is that the good kind of fat?". The Frenchman planning the dinner loudly exclaimed, "Non, non non! No bad fat. There's pork fat, duck fat, goose fat... it's all good fat!"

****

Thanks, Alisa! For those of you who'd love to give Alisa's recipes a try but don't read French, two of her books have been published in the UK by Simon & Schuster and are widely available! Pick up copies of her books in booksellers throughout Paris or order on Amazon.fr and Amazon.co.uk. Follow her updates and tasty creations on twitter (@SweetPeaParis) and on Facebook.

{Read another interview with Alisa Morov HERE on ParisienSalon.com}
{A few photos HERE from one of Alisa's Very Swell Mad Men cocktail I attended}

Best Burgers in Paris: Le Camion Qui Fume food truck

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Wed, 14 Dec 2011 03:00:00 +0000

If you've been following me over the last year, you know I have an insatiable hunger for cheeseburgers and a never-ending mission to share the best in Paris. I've listed some of my favorites in Paris HERE and more recently HERE. But the ongoing quest for juicy patties just got even more competitive.

Wheeled out (literally) two weeks ago, Le Camion Qui Fume* is Paris' first food truck and the brainchild of California native and Ferrandi-trained chef, Kristin Frederick. In a city where burgers of all forms and quality have become ubiquitous, it was going to take something special to make Kristin's burgers buzz-worthy in Paris. Once she landed the permits and the truck, all that remained was a way to inform hungry urbanites of the truck's daily location.

Following in the footsteps of successful food trucks back in the States with a prominent social media presence, Kristin went straight to Twitter and Facebook in addition to her website to announce truck locations and scheduling changes. That's part of what got people talking, but full credit goes to the concept and the quality.

The beef is ground fresh each morning, the buns are of the bakery variety and the options on the menu are unlike any this city has seen before. I opted for the Campagne which came topped with aged gruyère, caramelized onions and mushrooms and a side of hand cut, perfectly salted fries.

As I stood outside the truck, my hands numb from the biting cold, I savored each and every bite until hitting that ultimate sense of disappointment when I came to the last morsel. By the time I had finished my melody of ooohs and ahhhs, my fingers were warm and my smile untouchable. "It's still fast food", Kristin said as I sang her praises. Call it what you will, Le Camion Qui Fume's burgers have merited their cushy new spot at the top of my ultimate burger list (and yours). Hopefully their searing success after only 2 weeks on the road is a harbinger for additional trucks and stops in the near future.

Le Camion Qui Fume
Burgers: 8€
Burgers + Fries: 10€
Location changes daily

*Le Camion Qui Fume = The Smoking Truck
**My favorite restaurant burger? This one from Drôle d'Endroit Pour Une Rencontre

Verjus Restaurant and Wine Bar

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 03:00:00 +0000

There's nothing like accessible, down home American comfort food in Paris to cause expats to buzz wildly. Mention otherworldly buttermilk fried chicken and the drooling is immediate. The only place in town that serves up the juicy and crispy dish with Asian flair is Verjus, the latest venture of Seattle chefs Laura Adrian and Braden Perkins.

If their names sound familiar it's likely because you've heard about their staggeringly successful underground supper club, Hidden Kitchen, where they regaled guests with a mind-blowing 10 course meal with wine pairings around a communal table in their apartment. The food was nothing short of transcendental; inventive in taste and elegant in form.

I don't know that firsthand, however. I never had the opportunity to experience their underground talents but friends have told me they have never eaten better in Paris. An ambitious claim, perhaps, but one substantiated by 4 years worth of thrilled dinner guests, including one of my recent Verjus companions.

| THE BAR
Armed with a style of cuisine somewhat underrepresented on the Paris food scene, Laura and Braden have taken the plunge (and administrative challenge) and finally opened a restaurant and wine bar. Just before Thanksgiving, I went to their highly anticipated wine bar twice in one week. First with Stephanie, Jamie and Nicole, then again with Mr. C. and both times I left raving about their buttermilk fried chicken (perfection), celeriac dumplings (pictured below), and butterscotch budino and even more impatient for a full meal when their restaurant opened. Fortunately, I didn't have to wait long to get my chance.

The bar is very small so arriving around 6pm when they open is recommended but with no shortage of wines and mini plates you'll find it easy to spend the whole night sipping and nibbling.

| THE RESTAURANT
After the fried chicken, our expectations were high. Stephanie's were particularly high as she recalled the magic of every course at Hidden Kitchen. The menu for the opening week of Verjus, the restaurant, featured an inventive mix of flavors and awaited our first course with bated breath.

The amuse-bouche looked delicious but was of beets, 1 of 2 vegetables I dislike. Not the fault of the restaurant, they can't please everyone. But beets appeared again in a later course - too many beets for a non-beet eater.

But then came the house smoked salmon with soft tofu and I knew it was going to be good. While the flavor wowed, it wasn't as warm as it should have been and neither was the next course, the duck breast. Within moments of clearing our salmon plates, the duck arrived but our palettes were not yet prepared for the switch. We needed a bit more time to let the previous flavors settle.

We followed with a cheese plate (not included in fixed menu we selected) and finished with the chocolate ganache and fennel cream dessert which we waited quite a long time to receive. We hoped to spend all evening savoring each morsel but due to the rapidity with which each course (except dessert) was served, we were out the door in just under 2 hours.

But before you misinterpret what I'm saying, I will clarify my disappointment. My dinner guests and I all agreed that most of these bumps could be attributed to the very newness of the restaurant. It was their first week open and it is clear that serving the same dishes to 16 people (in your home) is not quite the same as preparing a variety of orders to 30 restaurant diners.

The logistics still need finessing but I'm sure that once the crew is used to their new digs and expanded clientèle, Hidden Kitchen sparks will truly fly again.

I'd definitely go back in a few months once they've found their rhythm but until then, you'll find me in the Verjus wine bar with my plate of fried chicken, shoestring fries and whoopie pies. I won't share.

Verjus
Bar
47 rue Montpensier, 75001
Monday-Friday, 6pm -11pm

Restaurant (must make reservations)
52 rue de Richelieu, 75001
Tuesday-Friday, 7pm-10pm
+33(0)1.42.97.54.40.

{More Verjus photos HERE}

Franco File Friday: Elaine Sciolino

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 03:00:00 +0000

Lifelong francophiles have a tendancy to employ a certain rhetoric when they express feeling perpetually beguiled by France. The key to this fascination is seduction. We find ourselves seduced by the way of life, the people, the architecture, the food and made powerless in its force. Is it any wonder that expats who tirelessly complain about red tape and bureaucratic nonsense muster the will to stay, often for their entire lives?

Seduction is at play, however, beyond a simple plate of macarons or cruise along the Seine. It's anchored in French history and if anyone knows a thing or two about the role of seduction in France it is longtime Paris bureau chief of The New York Times, Elaine Sciolino. After decidedly serious, political tones to her first two books, Elaine sought to demystify the French mystique with the perfect marriage of fact and wit. It is through personal tales (e.g. encounters with former French President Jacques Chirac) and historical anecdotes of public figures in La Séduction that she offers us entertaining insight into French culture. Today, she shares some of her favorite aspects of expat life in France!

Describe what you love about France in three words.
Conversation without end. That’s what seduction is – an endless conversation, a “partage” or sharing. In the bedroom and the boardroom, at the dinner table and the negotiating table. There is a visual conversation on the streets, a verbal conversation in cafes, a olfactory conversation with perfume.

Most misconstrued notion about the French?
That they are always rude. Yes, they can be rude, really rude. They stare and don’t smile much. But we foreigners need to understand “le regard.” Le regard is the look, the electric charge between two people when their eyes lock and there is an immediate understanding that a bond has been created. The concept is a classic component of French seduction, rooted in antiquity and developed in the love poetry of the troubadours. Le regard is not done with an open, wide, American-style grin, but mysteriously and deeply, with the eyes. Not with a wink. “French women don’t wink,” one French woman told me. “It disfigures your face.”

Aside from being kissed on the hand by Jacques Chirac, other notable moments where you were seduced à la Française?
I was “seduced” by Inès de la Fressange, the former supermodel for Chanel. In a 2009 Internet poll, she was voted “La Parisienne,” the quintessential Parisian woman. It’s hard not to be attracted to a woman with the long limbs of a runner, the raspy voice of a cabaret singer, the impish look of a coquette, the sense of humor of a stand-up comic and the smile of Audrey Hepburn.

She told me that the subject of my book was so vast and so serious that I needed first-hand experience. “You have to be conscientious,” she said. “You can’t talk about seduction, fashion, politics, beauty without a French lover….”

Favorite way to spend a relaxing Sunday afternoon in Paris?

Discovering a small museum – like the Musée des Années Trente in Boulogne-Billancourt
Chatting with the shopkeepers on the rue des Martyrs in my neighborhood, which is closed off to traffic on Sundays – then peeking into the dépôts-ventes (secondhand shops) high up on the street.

Book or film you'd most recommend for die-hard Francophiles?
Any film by Eric Rohmer. Start with Chloe in the Afternoon.

Here are some of my favorite “seduction books”:
Les Liaisons Dangereuses by Pierre Choderlos de Laclos. This 18th century novel written in the twilight of the Enlightenment makes use of contemporary – and diabolical -- techniques of seduction. The story of Valmont, the seducer; Madame de Merteuil, his partner in perversion and evil; and Madame de Tourvel, the target and ultimate victim; is a cautionary tale.

The Lovers by Alice Ferney. This powerful, troubling novel about infidelity translated from the French tells the love story of a beautiful, happily married, twenty- six-year-old mother who is expecting her second child. And a worldly, successful, forty- nine- year- old writer of made- for- TV movies whose marriage is ending. The most sensual passages in the novel are the phone conversations between them. They capture the power of the voice.

A Little Bit of Paris by Sempé. The cartoonist Sempé is a national treasure. With a delicate pen, he captures the Paris of our imagination, with enough truth to reel us in and make us smile. Women in hats and ruffled skirts sun themselves on park benches, balding men in overcoats and elegant scarves contemplate the Eiffel Tower. It is a world of cafes and street traffic in a city of Haussmanian buildings with mansard roofs and flowers on the wrought-iron balconies.

Le Divorce by Diane Johnson. A superb comedy of morals and manners about the American encounter with France and a helpful guide for American women on the mystique of their French counterparts. The scene in which young Isobel, fresh from California, is advised by her older, married French lover to perfume her juices by drinking an entire pot of orange and rosewater tisane is worth the price of the book.

*****

Many thanks to Elaine for taking the time to participate in this series! If you are fascinated by more than just French landmarks, you must pick up a copy of La Séduction - all the pieces of the French puzzle come together thanks to Elaine's spot-on analysis. Stay on top of her articles and appearances via her website and on Twitter @ElaineSciolino.

Click here to order a copy!

{Author photo by Gabriela Sciolino Plump; others by Lindsey Tramuta}

**Check out my Paris favorites feature on National Geographic!

Paris Bakery: Du Pain et Des Idées

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 06 Dec 2011 17:56:00 +0000

There are certain memories that feel like they belong to someone else. Memories so distant you can't be sure if they really happened or if they're merely a construction of your imagination, created to fill a void.

When I was a kid, my family and I would spend summers in Avalon, NJ (far from being Biarritz, I admit). I can barely remember what it looked like, where we stayed or how much trouble I might have gotten myself into but I do remember the danishes.

Before I ever introduced my taste buds to croissants they knew cheese danishes. If memory serves me correctly, my father and I would head to the local (and perhaps sole) bakery to pick up a bagful of varied danishes for breakfast- cheese, fruit, or the cinnamon snegle - Danish for snails. We even braved the early morning torrential rain showers to retrieve them.

By the time we sprinted to and from the bakery, we deserved those pastries. The second we walked in the door of our seaside home, I would snatch the cheese danish out of the bag followed by a second round with a snegle. No surprise, then, that one of the French pastries I most enjoy today is the snail (escargot). The escargot is similar in form to the snegle but with layers of pistachio, lemon, nougat or berry and chocolate in between the puff pastry and far more delicious.

Perhaps the best place in Paris to get a dose of snail nostalgia (and downright stellar pastries overall) is Du Pain et Des Idées, a renowned bakery situated a block from the Canal St. Martin in the 10th. The owner, Christophe Vasseur, was named best boulanger in Paris in 2008 and it's for good reason. From hearth breads to viennoiseries, everything is crafted to perfection. Mind-blowing perfection. It's your favorite corner bakery but better.

The selection will cost you more than at the average bakery but the exceptional taste is worth every centime. If you're as much of a bread snob as I am, don't leave without a slab of their signature loaf, the Pain des Amis - masterfully crusted on the outside and airy and fluffy on the inside, just waiting to be buttered.

The above video {click over to the blog if you're reading from your email} showcases the many talents produced by Vasseur and his team at Du Pain et Des Idées and the objective behind each creation. Even if you don't understand French, you'll appreciate the visuals.

I'm grateful to have found the pistachio-chocolate escargot (pictured above) because it not only rocked my taste buds but confirmed that my memories of Danish fetching as a child were completely and joyfully real.

Du Pain et Des Idées
34 rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris
01.42.38.03.08
Open Monday-Friday 6:45am-8pm

Franco File Friday: Jane from La Cuisine Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 02 Dec 2011 02:30:00 +0000

One of the great things about entrepreneurship is being able to start over - to go from a fixed structure to creating your own rules; taking what you learned and the skills you acquired from a traditional role and applying it to new territory.

For years, Jane Bertch worked with French multinationals as a corporate banker both in the States and London, the latter affording her frequent trips to Paris. As her contract in London was nearing its end and an ever-present pull toward Paris brewing, she began brainstorming ways to make the French capital her permanent home. Armed with the savoire faire, drive, the perfect partner in crime (Olivier, her husband), and a handful of talented chefs, she set out to create La Cuisine Paris. Banker to baker - why open a cooking school? First and foremost, to share good cooking with visitors and locals. She explained, "what could be better than standing around in the kitchen chatting and cooking a meal together? Don't all good parties end up in the kitchen anyway?".

She's got a point. Good thing she followed her instincts because La Cuisine has gone from a somewhat hidden home on the left bank to a stately space on the right bank overlooking the Seine and frequent accolades in a variety of major publications, including this The New York Times nod back in September.

Throughout this venture, Jane's appreciation for Paris has continued to grow and she feels a great sense of obligation to share that with La Cuisine students. Now she shares with all of you!

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Tradition Juxtaposed with 'Tendance' (trend)

If you had to do it all again, would you start another business in France?

Yes! I guess I have always been on the lookout for a good challenge, and starting a business in France certainly has been challenging ! My 10+ years of working in banking hardly prepared me for the life of a small business owner. Everyday is different but I love it.

Spots you encourage your clients to visit during their time in France?

We are right on the tip of the Marais so I always encourage clients to wonder through there – so many charming places to see, amazing food to be tried, outstanding produce to be purchased from open air markets (especially Le Marché des Enfants Rouges). Most importantly, I try to encourage them to take the small streets – get lost, find themselves and get lost again!

For a specific store, I always urge them to go to E. Dehillerin, a shop that specializes in high quality kitchen and pastry accessories. It has played an important role in the culinary history of France and it is for that reason we selected them as our supplier. Not to mention, our clients get a special little something if E.Dehillerin knows they have been with us!

Most amusing question about the French you have ever received during a cooking class?

Where and when do the French wear the berets? (the answer is, never!)

Your favorite quintessentially French place for good eats and good wine?

My favorite restaurant, hands down, is Mon Bistrot in Boulogne-Billancourt. Exceptional quality for the price, superb service, charming and an overall, warm and inviting environment keeps me going back! Worth the trip.

*******

Thanks Jane! Now, stop what you're doing and add La Cuisine Paris cooking classes to your list of things to do on your next trip to Paris. They have English and French classes catered to all interests (and tummies) and will have you walking away with new skills and a goody bag. Follow Jane's amusing tweets from the kitchen: @LaCuisineParis and be sure to become a fan of their Facebook page where they post obscenely drool-worthy photos of the confections prepared during each class.

Mon Bistrot

33 Rue Marcel Dassault

92100 Boulogne-Billancourt

+33 (0)1.47.61.90.10

Closed Saturday and Sunday

La Cuisine Paris

80 Quai de L'Hôtel de Ville

75004, Paris

+33(0)1.40.51.78.18.

contact@lacuisineparis.com

{Photos: Lost In Cheeseland + La Cuisine Paris}

Where to Take Afternoon Tea in Paris (guest post!)

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 17:28:00 +0000

It’s 3pm. Your mouth is dry and you’re longing for a little hit of caffeine and sugar to tide you over into the evening… do you reach for a coffee? Well, you could… or you could make an occasion of it and treat yourself to an afternoon tea in Paris.

From grand hotel tea rooms to intimate salons and trendy cafes, you can perform the tea ceremony with as much or as little splendor and circumstance as you like. The rules of the meal are far less rigid than in ‘tea cities’ like London or Hong Kong, so you can afford to play around. See my four recommendations below for a delectable afternoon treat!

Luxury Tea: Le Meurice
If you want a traditional afternoon tea with all the trimmings, Le Meurice near the Louvre has it covered. Marrying tradition with contemporary luxury, the hotel’s Phillippe Starck-designed Dali restaurant is the ideal setting for this proper English tea with a French twist. Jam, scones and finger sandwiches come piled on a dainty tiered stand, you can choose from a selection of fruit tarts, French cakes and macaroons whipped up by pastry chef Camille Lesecq. Your surroundings might be refined, but the atmosphere’s relaxed and unstuffy – now, that’s a great update on the tea tradition.

Elegant Tea: Musée Jacquemart-André
Still posh, but far more intimate is the tea salon at Musee Jacquemart-André on Boulevard Haussmann, a formerly private 19th-century mansion full of priceless art and antiques. Now open to the public, you can stop by just for tea in the original dining room or also to take a peek round the entire house – breath-taking state rooms, winter garden and all. In the salon, sip on tea from the museum’s monogrammed teapots and tuck in to seasonal pastries created by chefs at Parisian patisserie Stohrer and chocolatier Petite Marquise.

Traditional Tea: Mariage Frères
With around 500 of its own infusions, French tea-makers Mariage Frères are tea royalty, making their name importing and selling fine blends to exclusive salons and hotels since the 18th century. The brand started selling directly to the public in the 1980s, and has opened several stores with tea rooms across Paris since then – stop by to try a cup or two in the Marais (30 Rue Bourg Tibourg), St. Germain (13 Rue des Grands Augustins) or St. Honoré (260 Rue Fbg St Honoré).

Menus offer a dizzying selection of blends, which you can also take home in black Mariage Frères tins bought from the shop afterwards. Sweet treats include macarons, madeleines and mini crèmes brûlées served in a ‘Time for Tea’ section.

Trendy Tea: Mamie Gâteaux
Small and cute with quirky, granny-chic décor – a cast iron stove stands against the wall, battered cake tins line shelves – Mamie Gâteaux ticks all the right boxes for a new wave of vintage-lovin’ tea aficionados. There’s a long list of delicate tea blends to choose from, including peach on the vine and smoked tea with vanilla and caramel. Accompany your pot with a round of scones served with homemade jam. Fresh, seasonal fruit tarts, madeleines and toasted brioche make up the rest of the menu’s sweet selections.

About the author: Isabel Clift is a London-based, Paris-loving blogger for HostelBookers.com, the budget travel specialists. If you’re visiting Paris to take tea soon, the site has a rather fine selection of cheap Paris hotels.

Thanksgiving in Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Mon, 28 Nov 2011 22:23:00 +0000

Thanksgiving in Paris happened twice and was full of:

Beautifully dressed tables.

Chicken.
Southern biscuits.

Feline entertainment and cuteness.

Laughs.

Friends.

Champagne.
My pumpkin bread.
A raspberry tarte.
Franco-American merriment.
Frosnac wine from 1978.
Turkey.
Comté de Noël.
Lola's Cookies snickerdoodles + pie
Happy bellies.

Thanksgiving as an expat doesn't have to feel any less warm and festive than it would back home. I feel fortunate to have been surrounded by people who were also seeking a taste of familiarity in the form of good company, obscene amounts of delicious food and welcomed lethargy. Lucky for us, we were able to share it with a handful of Frenchies who were after, more or less, the same thing.

Franco File Friday: My Folie à Deux

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 25 Nov 2011 03:00:00 +0000

"For the love of travel and food". I knew I'd like Jen Laceda's blog My Folie à Deux from the moment I saw the tagline. Travel + food topics housed in one blog couldn't be more up my alley. A love for travel was instilled in her from a very young age, having country-hopped with her family as a child. Culinary appreciation came next and evolved into a refined palette with a penchant for only the finest French desserts, particularly the macaron (as evidenced by THIS and THIS post). Her site has taken a decidedly delicious turn of late as she documents her baking adventures (and feeds her growing belly for baby #3!) but her city guides were initially what grabbed my attention. Though she's covered many countries and international cities on her blog, Paris keeps resurfacing time and again. Meet this loyal Francophile!

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Style. Passion. Pleasure.

Among all the places around the world you've visited, what is it about Paris (or France, in general) that grabs you?

This question is a bit hard for me to answer, as I love to travel and I always find something to like about a place. But to be honest, one day when I was 15, I woke up and saw a series of postcards from Paris and you could say that it was love at first sight! I fell in love with the images of a brightly lit Eiffel Tower, a chestnut tree-lined Champs Élysées, a goodie-filled pâtisserie, and some arcane courtyard with a quiet garden. It seems so clichéd now, but nonetheless, I was crushing on Paris then.

I hadn't even been to Paris at that time yet I already knew I wanted to connect with and experience the city! I think that’s the difference. With Paris, love didn’t come later – it came first! And there was an undeniable chemistry: I literally felt butterflies in my stomach when I read about the city and I had this deep yearning to BE there. To this day, I consider Paris my first love, and you know what? You don’t ever forget about your first love…

Favorite spot in Paris for a traditional but tourist-free meal?

I’m not sure if this choice is necessarily traditional nor tourist-free but I like having a cup of espresso or hot chocolate with croissant at Café Central on rue Cler. Just before I hit the market, I go across the street from Café Central to the boulangerie-pâtisserie (whose name escapes me) and take away a demi-baguette, a quiche or pizza for snacks. Then I hop over to Davoli to get some outstanding charcuterie – jambon de Bayonne, saucissson sec de Provence, Italian prosciutto! Then I will stop at a fromagerie for some triple creme Brie, Mimolette, or Comté cheese. To me, that’s my favourite spot / way of eating in Paris.

Most unusual or amusing interaction with a French person during your travels?

I was in Paris in December 1995 and there was a Metro strike (surprise!). I needed to catch my bus to Amsterdam one evening and the only public transportation available was via taxi. My taxi driver was a charming Frenchman who was telling me that he worked Disneyland Paris for awhile, but decided that he liked driving around Paris more than anything else. Then he told me, “look around, what’s more beautiful than this? And it’s not fake!” I couldn't have agreed more! The whole way to the bus station he pointed out landmarks to me – favourite restaurants and bars, a friend’s apartment building, charming little streets, interesting graffiti…it was well worth the 100 Francs I paid for that ride!

Macarons or cupcakes (since you enjoy making both)?

Macarons! They’re an enigma to me! They are difficult to bake and almost too perfect. Macarons are like sweethearts or lovers to me: a nicely smooth shell on the outside that has bite, with something sweet sandwiched inside that always manages to surprise me.

Thanks, Jen! Follow Jen's travels and baking adventures (I promise, the drool-worthy photos and recipes don't disappoint!) on My Folie à Deux and on her 2nd site, The Travel Provocateur. Full of great tips, guides and reviews!

{All photos courtesy of Jennifer Laceda}

Paris in November ....

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 22:34:00 +0000

Is 55°F? Not usually, but we've been blessed (and sunkissed) by the météo-gods with some abnormally mild November temperatures. This time last year in Paris, the bone-aching cold had already settled in for the season. The leaves crunched beneath our feet, the sky was a permanent shade of monotonous and the heat in our apartment was already switched on, full blast.

Paris's breathtaking sunsets that transition us nicely into winter's long, evening hours are eclipsed by thick, oppressive clouds that make leaving the house not just challenging but downright painful. People tend to forget that Paris, like any other highly-visited and attractive city, can lose its otherwise pristine luster when the clouds roll in. Rain and cold in Paris might be better than in most parts of the world but when it paints your everyday, it wears on you.

Fortunately for me and a few of my friends who arrived last week, armed with puffer jackets and long underwear, the air has been kind. So kind, in fact, that the streets were filled with jacketless (but not scarfless, let's not forget who we're talking about here. The French equate exposed necklines with instant illness) flâneurs, terrace-goers and window shoppers.

Not just convenient for me and my friends but for Beaujolais Nouveau enthusiasts who celebrated in the streets, in wine bars and wine shops, many of which were offering free tastings throughout the weekend.

Despite this dose of spring (or early fall), we all know what's ahead. We were boasting record temperatures in April then were slammed with a wash out in May. I guess it's how you know you've become more French.... you whine that the unseasonable sunshine is a harbinger for a long and brutal winter season rather than simply bask in the ethereal, albeit fleeting, blue skies. Verre à moitié vide ou à moitié plein?

*Reasons to head to Paris in the winter, despite the cold (when it finally arrives)

Franco File Friday: David Lebovitz

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 07:11:00 +0000

This man hardly requires an introduction. Pastry and chocolate connoisseur, formerly of legendary restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, CA., David Lebovitz is as much a famous face in Paris as in the States. Author of six books, including The Sweet Life in Paris which chronicles the trials and tribulations of his move to France, his adjustment, and comical encounters that represent daily life in the capital, and a hugely successful eponymous blog, David has become a veritable resource for Francophiles and adopted-Parisians.

Between organizing chocolate and candy tastings, seasonal book signings, attending food blog conferences, writing, and private gastronomy tours through Paris and Lausanne, Switzerland, he managed to find the time to create the ultimate mobile guide to the city’s top spots for pastries, ice cream, hot chocolate and more. David teamed up with fellow writer and tour guide Heather Stimmler-Hall and my friend, Bryan Pirolli, to create Paris Pastry, an iPhone application that serves as an invaluable pastry-hunting tool for visitors and locals alike.

I’m honored to have David on Franco File Friday today!

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Universal Health Care

One of the things I miss most about the US are the variety of hearty sandwiches available - what has you waxing nostalgic?

American television (not because it’s so great, but because it’s rather tiring watching Columbo and Love Boat reruns dubbed in French), aluminum foil that’s thicker than tissue paper, unscented products, banks that let you deposit and withdraw your money whenever you want to, and supermarket cashiers who give you your change back without sneezing into their hand first.

What is your favorite go-to spot to relax and recharge outside of Paris?

A friend’s house, which is a small, simple home on the top of a mountain near Nice and overlooks the valley and the Mediterranean in the distance. The house is very clean and sparse, but she’s a cook so the kitchen is a pleasure to work in and well-equipped. Just outside is a nice patio, which is the perfect place in the summer to enjoy ice-cold rosé and aïoli - a big platter of vegetables with garlic mayonnaise, which we make in her giant Provençal mortar and pestle. And because it’s at the top of a small village, you need to walk up a rather steep hill to get there. So by the time you’ve made it to the top, you feel like you’ve earned that rosé.

Of all the 300 pastry shops, bakeries and salons de thé you feature in your new Paris Pastry app, what are the two you'd recommend most to Paris newcomers with limited time?

Well, it’s hard to narrow it down to just two, so there is a Top 25 List I have included in the app. But if someone had only two chocolate shops to go to, I’d say Patrick Roger and Jean-Charles Rochoux. However since it’s France and no one follows the rules, I’d like to add Fouquet, A l’Etoile d’Or, and Bague de Kenza, which has lovely Algerian pastries, as places I’m equally smitten with.

Most amusing or frustrating interaction with the French?

What’s frustrating about the French is that they will never admit they’re wrong, even if you have an entire stack of irrefutable evidence which proves otherwise. I’m just astonished (and a little amazed) at how they are able to hold their ground, no matter what. And what seems to me to be logical, isn’t necessarily so. On our last drive through Brittany, both my French partner and the locals told me to stop following road signs, which often led to the wrong direction, and instead, ask for directions. And they were right.

What’s amusing is how “small town” Paris can be, in spite of the fact that it’s a major world city. Banks that close for no reason, the disdain for “le marketing” or anything commercial (even though the French often excel at commerce, especially when it comes to luxury brands), the cafés where a grouchy welcome turns into a lengthy (and friendly) conversation at the bar, the little bakeries on every corner where you can exit with a treat for less than a euro, the multitude of wine bars where you can have a glass (or two...) for less than the price of a Starbucks latte, and the bus drivers of Paris, who are my personal heroes, since they manage to navigate the windy streets with a boatload of passengers while maintaining a zen-like state, and are always ready with a proper “Bonjour” when you enter the bus. I am forever in awe of them.

Thanks David! I think most foodies are in awe of you! Download the Paris Pastry app now and follow David's riotous tweets on Twitter: @davidlebovitz.

{all photos courtesy of David Lebovitz}

Strolling the 7th arrondissement

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 21:17:00 +0000

After brunching at Coutume Café a couple of weekends ago, I strolled, relatively pain free, for the first time in weeks. Fleeting though it was, walking through Paris with a subtle chill in the air, surrounded by beautiful Fall foliage and two important people in my life, I felt alive again. Less elderly, more sprightly.*

When I was in grad school, I was in the 7th arrondissement daily. Now, I go for Pain et Chocolat, to meet up with some friends who live nearby or to visit one of the many museums in the neighborhood or thereabouts (Rodin Museum, Le Petit and Grand Palais). Rarely do I take the time to appreciate the 7th's beauty, albeit growingly graffitied, but I felt a renewed sense of connection to the city. Dogged optimism contributes to healing but having a stellar backdrop in everyday life sure helps too.

Franco File Friday returns this Friday, I hope you'll enjoy this one as much as I did! Thank you for all your words of encouragement on last week's post.♥

*If you're wondering what I'm referring to when I say elderly, painful strolling, etc., I have a herniated disk in my lower back and have had two anti-inflammatory spinal shots in the hopes that I'll finally be able to get over this hump and pick up physical therapy again to strengthen my muscles. J'ai une longue route devant moi....

Franco File Friday: Une Petite Pause

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 08:47:00 +0000

I haven't missed a Franco File Friday since I launched the series back in March and I was hoping that I could keep it going at that rate through the end of the year. But health comes first.

Instead of preparing today's feature, I'll be resting (immobile) my back after a minor intervention. I anticipate frequent naps, discomfort, reading, discomfort, watching movies, discomfort, and having friends visit me in my old lady state. And discomfort.

While it's not an ideal way to spend a long holiday weekend, I guess I should be grateful that I'm in France for health-related issues where my expenses will be almost entirely reimbursed within a couple of weeks.

I should also thank Mr. C without who I wouldn't be able to do much of anything for myself during this period of forced-bed rest. He might use the word servant. I prefer to think of it as fulfilling his marital duties. Either way, I appreciate the help!

So I leave you with this time-lapse video that I thought was awesome - San Francisco to Paris in 2 minutes. The creator took a photo from within the airplane every two miles between take-off and landing to produce this video. I'll be back on schedule next week but in the meantime, enjoy the video!

{If reading from your email, click over to the blog to watch the video!}