Lost In Cheeseland

Franco File Friday: Patricia Wells

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 25 May 2012 02:00:00 +0000

For those passionate about Paris, food and cooking, it's impossible not to come across the work of Patricia Wells, a former food critic for the International Herald Tribune and resident authority on all things edible in France. For over thirty years, she has split her time between Paris and Provence, authoring 13 books and welcoming eager learners into both her homes for weeklong cooking classes so in demand they require reservations months in advance. A worthy feat for a memorable experience, to be sure.

Last month, she celebrated the release of the highly anticipated digital version of her preeminent culinary tome, The Food Lover's Guide to Paris - an app that condenses her favorite addresses, both old and new, into a handy collection of over 350 restaurants, wine bars, chocolate shops, fromagers and bakeries. Locals went wild and fans of the print guide, last edited in 1999, cheered for pocket-sized tips to the city’s finest food stops. An invaluable resource from one of my favorite Francophiles! A little bit more about Patricia...

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Beauty. Paris. Provence.

Biggest misconception about the French?

That they are unfriendly. I think much of that stems from French reserve. Americans are so open, friendly, sometimes volatile, and we expect everyone to be like that. The French are not. So we take that lack of enthusiasm for life in a negative way and take it as being unfriendly. Not the case at all!

Where your heart really resides, Paris or Provence?

It resides wherever I am. When I am in Paris I could live there 365 days a year and never leave. But when I am in Provence, I want to lock the gate and just be a hermit on the hill.

Favorite spot for savory and sweet in Paris?

Secco's tomato tart and Henri Le Roux's caramels aux beurre salé.

Most amusing interaction with the French?

This is a long story. But years ago in Provence we were having a picnic in the forest above Gigondas. The weather was dreadfully hot and dry and technically no one was allowed in the forest because of the fear of fires. Our winemaker insisted it was ok. The forest rangers approached us while we were eating and our winemaker sweet talked them and they let us stay. While hiking back down to the village after the picnic we ran into the rangers again and I apologized for "breaking the law." They sort of laughed and said being in the forest was "interdit mais toleré." Since then, my favorite phrase and one that sums up the French!

Thanks, Patricia! If you are planning a trip to Paris or live in and around the city, The Food Lover’s Guide is a must-download. You may even find some of the places I’ve recommended on this site! For more information about the app, check out my recent article for the NYT. Currently available for iPhone, iPad and iPod Touch HERE (Android users, she’s working on it!).

For more of Patricia:

Blog: At Home with Patricia Wells

Twitter: @PatriciaWellsFr

Facebook

Order her books!

{Photos courtesy of Patricia Wells}

Update: Congrats Rachelnibbe, you've won a copy of "Cowgirl Chef" by Ellise Pierce! Please email me with your mailing address. Thanks for playing, everyone!

Scenes from The Hive, Berlin

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 22 May 2012 18:20:00 +0000

\\ Nicole, Alex, Emily, Ashley, Me, Brittany, and Anne at The Hive //

When Yvonne Dewerne, co-founder of The Hive blog conference, asked me to speak in Berlin, I replied with a resounding yes, but not until after a lengthy moment of genuine surprise. I was stunned that my site had captured the attention of bloggers in Germany (and beyond) but I was both humbled and thrilled to attend. I booked my ticket, asked Bryan to join me and endured several months of anticipation. After returning from three action-packed days in Berlin, surrounded by inspiring and creative bloggers from all over Europe, I can say confidently that attending was unequivocally one of the best decisions I have made.

Each speaker brought something fresh and thought-provoking to share and most important, applicable to both new and seasoned bloggers. I spoke about managing life with a growing blog (and other offshoot projects), using my own experience as a multiple-hat-wearer as an example. I have yet to master each of the 10 tips for achieving a healthy balance that I recommended to the audience but as I, and a number of other bloggers, expressed during the conference, we are all works in progress. (For an overview of the points I made, check out Sister Mag's recap here).

\\ Pictured outside Lokal: Rebecca, Anne, Rubi, Alex, Brittany, Emily, Ashley, Me //

Ashley of Chasing Heartbeats, who you've seen in my Franco File Friday series (here), organized a pre-Hive lunch at Lokal for a small group of us so we could get to know each other and ease into the weekend's schedule of keynote speeches, workshops and networking. It was incredible to finally meet Ashley in person since we've been exchanging emails and tweets for what feels like years - she is just as creative and vivacious in person as she is online.

\\ Thea and Toni, sisters and founders of Sister Mag //

It turns out, that was the case for every blogger I have either followed from afar or discovered for the first time at the conference. With focuses on crafting, graphic design, photography, travel, fashion and food, everyone I met was astoundingly industrious and passionate about their work. Thea and Toni of Sister Mag, a beautifully produced and professional digital magazine available in English and German, led a polished, analytical discussion on new vs. traditional media that left everyone buzzing. They impressed not only with their assiduous attention to detail and passion for creating quality content but with their darling duds, designed and sewn by their mother. Keep your eyes on these girls!

In the span of only three days, I walked away with more than just a host of excellent blogs to add to my reading list - I parted with new bonds. Now let's see how they flourish!

Related:
Highlights from Anne's Presentation
Ashley shares photos from lunch
Emily recaps Berlin in photos
Brittany offers a sneak peek of her Berlin flat
Thea and Toni review The Hive

Blogs | Sites:
Freunde von Freunden
The House that Lars Built
She Lets Her Hair Down
Tonbo Girl
From China Village
Chasing Heartbeats
Field Office
Prêt à Voyager
Haupt Stadt Mutti (Capital Mom)
Sister Mag
Undoing the Laces
Design Mom

Thank you to The Hive and Betahaus for a phenomenal event that brought so many talented people together and many thanks to 9Flats for the beautiful apartment! I can't wait for next year!

{Photos: Me and Ashley Ludaescher}

Franco File Friday: Ellise Pierce of Cowgirl Chef (+ Giveaway)

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 18 May 2012 03:00:00 +0000

I've encountered three kinds of expats in Paris: those who shed virtually all traces of their former lives and adapt seamlessly to the local lifestyle, right down to vestimentary choices; those who embrace a je-m'en-foutiste attitude, proudly carry their origins and resolve to stay just the same; and those who manage to fall somewhere in the middle and merge styles, habits and values from both cultures. Ellise Pierce, Texas-bred author of Cowgirl Chef: Texas Cooking with a French Accent, embodies this mix beautifully.

A freelance writer and ardent cook, Ellise packed up her life and moved to France from Texas to follow love but wasn't prepared for the challenge that awaited. Faced with relationship troubles, financial instability and cloying homesickness, the thought of jumping ship loomed large. Fortunately, Ellise turned to the kitchen, her happy place, lifted her spirits and turned things around. What emerged shortly after was Cowgirl Chef, a blog where she documents her cooking adventures and shares recipes, Cowgirl Tacos, a Tex-Mex catering company, a newspaper column, and now a wonderful book brimming with heartfelt, humorous stories, and Franco-Texan recipes (a unique, "Cowgirl" style of cooking). Of her newfound sense of self, Ellise recently explained in an interview, "Cowgirl Chef, I realized, is who I'd always been. I just had to move to Paris to find her".

You'll never find her without her vintage cowboy boots, a gorgeous French scarf or a tote for the market. Ellise is 100% cowgirl with a French twist! Here, she talks food and expat life.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Champagne, chèvre, chocolate.

Most underrated and overrated spots in Paris?

It took me awhile to come around to Picard, the frozen foods store that no one likes to admit that they buy stuff from, but I now proudly carry my handy tangerine cloth roll-up Picard bag in my purse wherever I go. I love their frozen blueberries and mangos, which I make smoothies with every day, and I’ve recently discovered how nice their blocks of pâte feuilletée roll into breadsticks. That said, I’d probably not cater a Christmas à la Picard, as some people do (to protect the guilty, I will not name names), but I’ve been known to eat their frozen pizza in a pinch. There. I said it.

Instead of naming one overrated spot, I’d like to talk coffee, perhaps the most overrated beverage in Paris. The coffee at almost every grand brasserie or café is more jus des chaussettes than that rich, heady French roast that you expect (and get at most Starbucks). Yet people think this is a coffee town. That the coffee in Paris must be wonderful, because it’s Paris, right, and how could they get something so important -- and so basic -- so wrong? But the truth is, they fail miserably in coffee-making, and other than a few places, all of which are new on the scene and some of which roast their own beans – Merce and the Muse, Kooka Boora, CoutumeCafé, Le Bal Café, and La Caféothèque**– the coffee in this town sucks.
(**and Télescope!)

Go-to spot for traditional French fare?

I love the confit de canard at Au Petit Chavignol in the 17^th, an old-school, family-run neighborhood bistro where everything’s made fresh, from the sauces to the desserts, each day. The owner, Bernard Roque-Bouges, makes the rounds and introduces himself to make sure everything’s okay, which is how I learned that the beef here – some of the best that I’ve tasted in Paris – comes from his brother’s cattle ranch in the Languedoc, as do most of the wines here. There’s nothing fancy or pretentious about this place, the prices are reasonable, and I always feel well taken care of. Bernard shared his recipe for sauce Roquefort with me one afternoon and showed me how to make it, step-by-step, which is in the book.

Favorite aspect of expat life?

Feeling like an outsider is probably the hardest thing to get used to at first, but after you realize you’ll never speak French without an American accent and no matter how well you think you’ve learned to tie a scarf, you still look like a foreigner, this sense of living in Paris as a non-Parisienne becomes a bonus. You finally do acclimate, and you figure out where stuff is at the grocery store and how to get from here to there on the metro. But what I love most is how I can walk down any street that I’ve walked down every day for the last five years and see something new – an architectural detail that I missed before, a tiny passage, something. Paris is filled with so many layers of history and beauty, and I’m always imagining the past…who walked here, or marched through these streets, or went to this very same market and bought vegetables from the same family of farmers. It’s buzzy and feels very alive. And so do I, living here. I’m inspired every single day.

Most amusing or frustrating thing about the French?

It’s still hard to understand how the city’s most famous ice cream maker, Berthillon, closes for the month of August, the biggest tourist month of the year. As an American you think, how is this possible? They could make so much money! This would never happen in the U.S. – and it probably wouldn’t. But this tells you everything a foreigner needs to know about French culture: business and making money aren’t the most important things in life.

****

Merci, Ellise! CowgirlChef: Texas Cooking with a French Accent is a must-have companion in everyone's kitchen. Running Press has kindly given me a copy to offer one lucky reader! To enter, leave a comment below with the recipe or dish that you turn to when you're blue. The winner will be selected at random and announced at the bottom of this post on May 24. (Please check back to see if you won so I can get in touch with you! If I haven't heard from you within 3 days, a different winner will be selected.)

For more of Ellise:

Cowgirl Chef

Cowgirl Chef on Facebook

Twitter: @CowgirlChef

Order a copy of the book!

Update: Congrats Rachelnibbe, you've won a copy of "Cowgirl Chef" by Ellise Pierce! Please email me with your mailing address. Thanks for playing, everyone!

Les Vacances

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Wed, 16 May 2012 20:10:00 +0000

To ward off the doldrums of a hapless spring season and the disappointment from the mini getaway I was aching for but never took, I've been focusing my energy on preparing my presentation for The Hive conference in Berlin (this weekend!) and making arrangements for our trip to the States at the end of the month. We'll be passing through Philadelphia to see my family before jetting off to southern California for a wedding, then we'll drive up the coast. I was a curious eight year old the last time I explored some of California's greats - San Francisco, Monterey, San Diego - but I embark on this trip with fresh eyes and the company of a Frenchman who has been dreaming of the golden state since I met him. I have every reason to be afraid of him falling in love with it but what he doesn't know is I'm afraid of the same (as if my feelings of place and purpose needed to be complicated any further)!

Friends have given us fantastic must-eat lists for San Francisco, I booked a place that came highly recommended for our night in Los Angeles but we have had very few ideas for Monterey and Santa Barbara where we will also be making stops. Any suggestions? I'm also interested in recommendations for small stationery, home goods, and knick knacks boutiques and cannot-be-missed things to do. Please share your favorites!

Although I'm off to Berlin before sunrise on Friday morning, you'll still be greeted with a new Franco File Friday in your inboxes, this one also includes a giveaway.

And a final note - thank you ALL for your warmth, candid words of advice and personal stories in response to my Things I'm Afraid to Tell You post. Who says the web can't serve as a communal therapy group?

Merci!

Franco File Friday: La Tartine Gourmande (+ giveaway!)

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 11 May 2012 02:00:00 +0000

While it’s increasingly common to see people in Paris eating on-the-go or even skipping meals in the face of work and other obligations, the beloved sit-down feast remains a mainstay of daily life in the rest of France. When we took my in-laws on their first trip to the States last summer, they couldn’t bear the thought that munching on a sandwich while exploring the city could be considered a proper lunch. At the very least, that sandwich would require additional picnic provisions (including dessert) and a lengthy pause in the park. And while this steadfast need to sit down and diligently savor every meal can seem excessive to the young or unfamiliar, it’s one of the things I appreciate most about the French.

French expat in Boston Béatrice Peltre has done an extraordinary job assimilating her own food traditions from childhood in the French countryside– never missing lunch, for one - into what has been a very American life for the last 14 years. Professional food stylist, writer, photographer and author of the award-winning food blog La Tartine Gourmande, Béa has attracted a loyal following not only for her stunning photos and recipes but for the personal stories she weaves beautifully around each dish. Her first book, La Tartine Gourmande: Recipes for an Inspired Life, where fresh, seasonal ingredients are paramount, is more than just a cookbook; it is a real celebration of food as a catalyst for creating our most treasured memories as well as a window into Béatrice’s life from France to America (with a few stops in between).

Today, she shares a few lessons from both of the places she calls home.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Earthy, Taste, "Joie-de-vivre"

Your sweetest memory from your hometown?

I have so many. The fact that there's a strong sense of community in the village (a small one in the northeastern part of France), with everyone knowing about each other and their respective families. I left over 15 years ago and whenever I visit, people still say hello as if they had seen me yesterday. The fact that it's in the middle of pure and beautiful countryside with cows and sheep and apple and cherry trees, with numerous fields and forests to go for walks, makes it even sweeter.

Biggest misconception about the French?

The fact that many think that they eat fancy, elaborate meals all the time!

What you miss most from France? Why?

The every day celebration of food. The accessibility to wonderful products on a large scale. Good yogurts and crèmes desserts! The fact that friends stop by without notice. And the fact that the French invite friends to come for a meal more spontaneously. In the US, this spontaneity is sometimes missing. People tend to prefer plans.

Something life in the States has taught you?

To feel good about oneself and build confidence. Americans have a much stronger, positive attitude in life generally speaking. They are doers. They are free-spirited, which really helped me in my journey to find a creative artistic outlet. I was taught to believe I could do it. So I worked hard at it and I did it!

Merci, Béa! A gorgeous, inspiring book of stories and luscious recipes for all cooks and bakers. As soon as I saw the teaser video (above), I knew this was a book I needed in my collection and I'm confident you will feel the same!

I'm thrilled to have a copy to offer to one lucky reader. To enter, share your most treasured food memory in the comments section below. The winner will be selected at random and announced at the bottom of this post on Thursday, May 17. (Please check back to see if you won so I can get in touch with you! If I don't hear from you within 3 days, a different winner will be selected).

Winner: Congratulations Lisa Higgins! Please email me with your mailing address.

Follow more of Béa's work:
La Tartine Gourmande
www.beatricepeltre.com/
Twitter: @tartinegourmand
Order a copy of the book!

Things I'm Afraid to Tell You

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Mon, 07 May 2012 21:15:00 +0000

Why do we read blogs? Information and entertainment, for one but also for many of the same reasons we tend to be baited by sensational news, reality television and celebrity fodder. We seek escapes from our daily lives, no matter how temporary. Blogs offer us a glimpse into the imaginative and seemingly more exciting worlds of others. But these rosy worlds - full of aspirational images, enviable travels and fortunate families - often cloak a far different reality for even the most successful bloggers behind them - crippling insecurity, peculiar habits, unreasonable fears and various other personal details rarely shared with readers.

Last week, motivated by this blogger's example, three incredibly successful, inspiring women (Ez of Creature Comforts, Nichole of Little Brown Pen and Erin of Design for Mankind) released a call for blogger transparency with the "Things I'm Afraid to Tell You" campaign. The blogging community swells with support and these women hope that the first string of participants will embolden other to jump in. While I share snapshots of my life and even talk about some of the more difficult times, there are so many things I haven't said. Reading the confessions of some of my favorite bloggers - like Susan and Jenna - motivated me to muster the courage to articulate my own fears and quirks.

1 // I don't really like picnics. Sitting on the ground invariably hurts my back and I can't stand the feeling of being crawled on by microscopic bugs. Give me a bench and a sandwich and I'm all smiles.

2 // I'm terrified that everything I have worked so hard to achieve will disappear - that it will happen virtually overnight and, as a result, I'll lose the sense of self I struggled to define. When I started this site, I never intended to update it very regularly let alone grow it into what it is today. Over time, it brought me writing opportunities and, most importantly, helped me find my voice. The beauty of writing about Paris is that it is a city that will never stop intriguing people but this also becomes its curse - with so many fantastic sites offering tips, photos, stories and recommendations, what's to prevent readers (collectively, all at once as I irrationally fear) from dropping my perspective for another? OR what happens if C. and I are given a once-in-a-lifetime chance in another part of the world and we have to move? What will happen to this site? Would I feel inspired to keep pursuing my writing on other platforms about other locations or is my creative juice (and perhaps ability to keep poeple reading) limited to this place?

3 // On the other hand, there are moments when I wish all of this - blogs, social media and its associated dependency, hyper-connectedness - would disappear. I realize that so many of my friendships, jobs, and otherwise improbable opportunities have emerged from these things but for all the web's positives, it has also heightened my existing propensity toward anxiety.

4 // I sometimes worry that not eating/liking pork, lamb, duck or shellfish precludes me from writing about food with any credibility.

5 // Despite having my work published in various publications and hearing from you, dear reader, that you enjoy my writing, I think most of what I produce isn't good enough. At times, this feeling of inadequacy leads to unhealthy comparisons to others and cloying self-doubt which, as we can all agree, are toxic to creativity and, ultimately, our happiness.

6 // I've previously shared my feelings about not wanting to have children and my conviction remains unchanged. A more recent concern is not having anyone to take care of me when I'm old and potentially alone. Surely I'm not the only one?

7 // Whenever C. forgets to put on sunscreen and ends up with a burn, I throw a little fit. Like many French, he didn't grow up with constant reminders or warnings of the dangers of prolonged sun exposure like I (and most Americans) did and he has the indelible sunspots to prove it. I fear he'll end up with skin cancer simply because he "couldn't be bothered" to protect himself.

8 // For every achievement, I feel simultaneously triumphant and overwhelmed. I inflict tremendous pressure on myself to keep going, to reach higher, for what results in such short-lived joy. Are all creative pursuits inherently complicated? A mixed bag of Catch-22s?

9 // I struggle with happiness - defining what it means for me, sustaining it and identifying what I need to do to get it back when it slips.

10 // This site had done fantastic things to my personal life but it hasn't been easy on my marriage. I need to get better at disconnecting from online chatter (and blather, let's be honest), at allowing myself the occasional respite from the stories turning in my head, and at devoting my attention to our offline needs. I've seen many couples handle this sort of thing beautifully and I'm totally envious. My work has only just begun.

I could have kept going but for your sake (and my own sanity) I thought ten was a good end point. Hoping those of you with blogs will join the campaign and those without will consider and confront your own fears.

Franco File Friday: Doni Belau, Girl's Guide to Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 04 May 2012 02:00:00 +0000

In recent weeks, I've been asked several times by both readers and new friends to share my Paris tale - why I came and how I was able to stay. With each iteration of the story, I feel two things: tremendously fortunate that the somewhat disparate elements of my journey commingled to create this life in the city I adore and completely overwhelmed by the realization that were it not for certain seminal choices I could be living a very different life, as a very different person. What would I be doing?

For one, I'd likely try to follow Doni Belau's example and split my time. The founder of the successful travel site Girl's Guide to Paris fell hard for the capital over twenty years ago and has striven to return full time ever since. Though she hasn't (yet) become a permanent resident, she's done the next best thing. Investing in a pied-à-terre in 2000 turned her go-to destination into a second home. Frequent trips with her girlfriends shortly after landing the apartment sparked the idea for Girl's Guide which features restaurant reviews, recipes, shopping tips, lodging recommendations and cultural round-ups from a bevy of local contributors. I've never met anyone as connected with the city's pulsing cultural and culinary scene, typically from 3,000+ miles away, as Doni; she genuinely lives and breathes Paris.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Beauty, Manger, le Ciel

Favorite spots for sweet and savory in Paris?

Tough one as there are too many: Sweet: Pierre Hermé for the rose macarons, Un Dimanche à Paris for the hot chocolate, Fouquet for salted caramels. Savory: Saturne for the sommelier and true farm-to-table, Guilo Guilo but only with my son (it's where he realized he was a budding foodie so I like to think of it as "our" place), Da Rosa for jambon iberico, Le Chateaubriand because the waiters are cute and the food is deliciously inventive and La Table d'Eugene because it was the best meal I've had in some time. And I always try to have a falafel at L'As du Falafel.

Best under-the-radar place to visit?

These are under the radar for tourists but not necessarily for expats who live in Paris: La Mosquée de Paris for hammams, hooka smoking or simply to sip mint tea and tour the mosque. Shakespeare & Co – I've met too many people who live in Paris or who come a lot who haven't been which is terrible. You can't find a bookstore like it in the US, that's for sure. The Canal St. Martin area, it just keeps getting better. Any of the farm & produce food shows such as the Salon International de L'Agriculture. And a new shopping spot I've discovered, Perrin Paris – fabulous leather goods (purses, gloves & sunglasses with leather) by appointment only on the rue des Petits Champs.

Something you can't leave France without bringing home with you?

Sadly now it seems to be caramels from Fouquet ! Since my husband doesn't like them as much as I do and I can't bear to give them away and my kids are at college, it seems I'm bringing them back for myself – shame! They're best when shared.

Most frustrating interaction with the French?

Recently I went to a dinner party at my friend's house in Montmartre with a group of only French speakers. I had started thinking that my French had gotten pretty good and figured I'd have no problem. But I was terribly wrong. I felt as if I was in French 101 again as the conversation went back and forth so quickly that by the time I thought of something to say they were miles past the subject. I managed to make it through dessert and then quickly said goodbye explaining that I had an early train. Turns out I still need a lot more practice before I'm ready for prime time!

****

Thanks, Doni! Be sure to follow Paris updates from Doni and her team on Twitter: @GirlsGuideParis, on Facebook and of course, on Girl's Guide to Paris (be sure to check out her recently launched Travel Club).

Semilla

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 01 May 2012 22:44:00 +0000

Saturday afternoon, the 15th consecutive day of rain and unseasonal cold, I huddled into Jeanne A to catch up with a friend. The previous evening, she and her husband had their first experience at Frenchie - the ne plus ultra of Paris néo-bistrots and one of the hardest spots in the city to score a reservation. While they couldn't deny the exceptional value for such beautifully fresh, imaginative plates, they were put-off by the entirely English-speaking crowd - a ubiquitous reality for today's top tables once they've made the rounds in the American press.

So when my friend Sasha (Savoir Faire) booked us a table at the freshly-opened new venture from Saint-Germain stalwarts Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré (the duo behind Cosi, La Dernière Goutte and Fish), I feared we were in for a similar fate. Semilla sits right across the street from Fish, the popular restaurant and petri dish for expats, where english voices bellow from rustic, communal tables. I had only read a few tidbits about this new place prior to going (all promising) but I wasn't expecting to find myself among a mixed crowd.

Semilla proved me wrong (hooray!). The stone-walled dining room welcomed a predominantly French group with only small pockets of native English speakers. We were book-ended by enthusiastic diners of all ages, most of whom could be heard raving about the wine list and eagerly examining and discussing the market-fresh menu within moments of settling into their tables. Three or four obliging servers (also of various nationalities) weaved around the tables hurriedly and were more than happy to provide their personal recommendations. It was the cheeriest contemporary bistro I've been to in ages.

In the gorgeous, open kitchen, Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) Eric Trochon led a small army of Ferrandi chefs who churned out a mix of original dishes and modern interpretations of French classics. But the real selling point here is that a number of the entrées and plats are available in half portions for tapas-style dining and there is enough choice to satisfy everyone's food proclivities.

We, along with almost every table around us, shared the must-have seared shitake mushrooms before digging into our main courses - a perfect cabillaud with celery purée and a side of garlic-braised ratte potatoes for me and the rich, squid risotto for Sasha (very filling - get the half portion if you plan on sharing other dishes). Generous slices of the crunchy, rustic bread from Cosi, next door, are piled into baskets on every table, impossible to ignore. Together, it was the perfect meal. I nodded my head with each bite, confirming that Semilla had nailed all the elements of the dining experience.

Snagging a reservation isn't a problem (for the moment; call several days in advance to be sure), the greeting is genuinely warm-hearted, the food is fantastic, devoid of frippery, and the turnout is, thankfully, varied. And the price? The kind of affordable that will turn this young working professional (and right-banker) into a regular.

Semilla
54 rue de Seine, 75006
+33 (0)1.43.54.34.50
Métro: Odéon, Mabillon
Open daily; lunch (fixed menu), snack, dinner

Franco File Friday: Trish Deseine

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 02:00:00 +0000

When I began taking an interest in the foreign movers and shakers on the French culinary scene a few years ago, I didn’t have to look far to identify the major players. Daniel Rose was surging to fame with Spring, David Lebovitz’s baking anecdotes and bons plans continued to beguile loyal readers and Trish Deseine’s work was everywhere I turned. Deseine, an Irish food writer and cookbook author who has called France home for the last 25 years, has sold over a million copies of her books worldwide, won international awards and hosted her own cooking shows. Raising four children falls into the mix too.

Nary a bookstore exists in this city that doesn’t carry her vast collection of food creations – from very personal interpretations of French fare to original, luscious chocolate recipes (speaking of which, you must watch Trish’s tutorial video for a salted caramel milk chocolate mousse – if the visuals don’t suffice in awakening the baker in you, her gorgeous accent will coax you into the kitchen). A few things about this wildly talented Francophile...

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Beauty. Decadence. Arrogance.

Favorite place for savory and sweet in Paris?

For savory I love Le Baratin in Belleville, thankfully intact despite a tidal wave of global interest in the first days of bistronomie. When you want to be good to yourself (often, in my case) it’s the place to go. For sweetness I adore the bar of The RoyalMonceau Hotel and its soft leather sofas. Pastries are by Pierre Hermé and the fact they are served all day, in a hôtel bar (designed by Starck) means you can instantly satisfy a sudden urge for just one sugary bite. My favouite Hermé cake of the moment is his study in sweet blandness and vanilla 'Tarte infiniment vanille.' Genius.

Go-to spot in France to relax?

Ah, that word, ‘relax.’ I am always relaxing. It’s sort of my goal in life - a daily quest in any case. And I don’t have to travel anywhere to do it because, of course, it’s not a specific, physical place that would ever allow you to. I believe too much is made of being busy, of filling a day « properly » , especially when you have children, and then starkly contrasting it with ‘down time’ or ‘me time’. Judgments get made about what's 'right' or 'enough' and people get even edgier trying to keep up.

A lot has also been written recently about how the French bring up their supremely well-behaved ‘relaxed’ offspring but trying to follow this 'French way' may be self-defeating. I think a lot of the (perceived) success of rearing compliant children simply results from not paying excessive attention to them and not letting their behaviour be some kind of constant reflection on what sort of people their mothers and fathers are. In my experience (25 years, 4 pretty normal, sociable children) most French parents don’t really care that much what everyone else thinks about their parenting skills and are more concerned with ensuring that their own, adult lives run smoothly, which is definitely a more relaxing way to live and, surely, a healthy priority? But I digress, possibly.

My favorite places to go, within a few hours' drive of Paris, are the big, cold, grey beaches of the Cotentin. They remind me of happy childhood holidays in Donegal, Ireland and few things relax me more.

Biggest misconception about the French?

That they are all Parisians. Or Charlotte Gainsbourg. But then, of course, most people reading about France seem to want easily digestible stereotypes and the media is only too delighted to serve them up, constantly, in all their stiletto-heeled, Gitane smoking, macaron nibbling glory. My life is here. And it's a real, messy life. I got tired of the clichés a long time ago.

What you’d miss most if you had to leave?

In anywhere other than Italy, I'd miss how pleasure is taken for granted. In France it is an entitlement, something noble and natural, to strive for and include in one's everyday life, in a million little ways. French people don't feel the need to reflect on this, it is a part of them.

****

Trish’s forthcoming tome, “Grande Table, Petite Cuisine”, about catering large gatherings in small spaces with style, hits French shelves in August and her next English-language book will be released in spring 2013. You can find her sweet recipes in Elle each month in addition to regular features in Elle à Table. When does she sleep? You’ll have to ask her on Twitter: @TrishDeseine. For more of Trish, jump over to her blog and pick up some copies of her fantastic books here!

Télescope Café

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 20:55:00 +0000

As if anyone needed another reason to spend time in the neighborhood surrounding the Palais Royal and its gardens, my favorite new coffee shop is mere blocks away. At Télescope, Nicolas Clerc (photographer-barista) and David Flynn (expert barista formerly of Le Bal) peddle the kind of exceptional coffee that makes bean connoisseurs everywhere reconsider Paris as a suitable stomping ground to fuel their obsession.

Of course it helps that these two apt roasters have equipped their earthy, rue Villedo café with first-rate machines. They are the first in the city to use the Über Boiler from Irish brand Marco which precisely regulates the quantity of water and temperature necessary to produce a consistently perfect, flavor-locked brew or infusion.

My first visit was two days after they opened for business, right at 8:30am. I was so impressed by the machinery and their poised expertise that I immediately felt compelled to imbibe myself with what would turn out to be an inordinate amount of coffee. I began with the sumptuously rich crème and a toasted Poujauran tartine topped with jam for a breakfast so sublimely simple and delicious I mentally scheduled my next visit on the spot.

Then just as I looked at my watch and gasped at the hour - I would be late for work - David sauntered over to my bay window table and delivered a pot of their filtered coffee of the moment (Colombian, prepared to order), masterfully brewed with the Über Broiler, and a slice of banana bread. "You have to try these", he said smiling. Work would have to wait.

One mini La Rochère cup sent a surprising jolt - an intense brew with distinctive notes that shames the acrid, over-roasted Robusta shots served across Paris. Between sips and bites of banana bread, which was dense and flavorful, I chatted with Nicolas about the lengthy realization and architectural hiccups that preceded the launch. Given the proximity to the Palais Royal, a protected historical site, the door, signage, and front windows had to be vetted by the city. A non-issue in the end. "Everyone is thrilled to have our business in the neighborhood", Nicolas added.

Télescope's appeal extends far beyond its star baristas and luxury roasts. Its diminutive space, and minimalist décor - a gorgeous, custom wood counter, exposed wood beams and vase of freshly cut flowers around the room - help keep the focus on the coffee while the calm of the street reels in inveterate café-goers looking for quiet and a place to lay out the newspaper.

It is the café we all dream of frequenting, where the baristas behind the bar know your name, your beverage of choice and consistently offer an out-of-cup experience. My only grievance is that Télescope doesn't land on my route to work but if ever an impractical detour should be made it's for a caffeinated moment in the presence of this charismatic duo.

Télescope
5 rue Villedo, 75001
Mon-Fri, 8:30-18:30; Sat 9:30-18:30
Métro: Bourse, Pyramides
info@telescopecafe.com

{More Télescope photos HERE}

Franco File Friday: Dorie Greenspan

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 20 Apr 2012 02:00:00 +0000

There are two things I recall vividly about cooking with my mother as a child. Between the clangorous sounds of pots and pans, utensils and slamming cabinets, she’d bellow warnings for me to stand out of the way so as not to get trampled. Instead, (first memory) I’d observe the chopping, pouring, mixing and roasting from a safe distance, making frequent trips to the mini television hanging above the marble counter to raise the volume – noisy dinner preparation muffled the voice of our mentor Julia Child. She was always on, always instructing with wry humor and always acting as a sort of cooking companion to my mother, in and out of the kitchen (second memory). In retrospect, learning of her love for France and her rich ties to the food, culture and people subconsciously contributed to my desire to explore all things French as I grew older. She was a regular guest in our home. That was then.

When I rediscovered my love for baking as an adult in Paris, it was no longer Julia I looked to but someone who has forged a similarly disarming legacy of demystifying French cooking for the American masses while putting her own modern spin on classic recipes. It could be none other than Dorie Greenspan - award-winning cookbook author, natural teacher and inspiration to aspiring home cooks everywhere. An impassioned Francophile, Dorie has straddled the Atlantic for over 15 years, darting from New York to Paris as often as her packed schedule allows where she cooks, researches, dines and rubs elbows with friend and mentor Pierre Hermé (with whom she collaborated on two books) among other fellow food luminaries. Dorie has anchored her distinct style through a combination of encouraging, spirited storytelling and infallible recipes, amassing legions of loyal fans along the way (myself included).

She’s currently working on her next book on French baking, slated for a fall 2013 release, which I can only hope is a companion compendium to her previous masterpiece, Around My French Table. And the trips to Paris? Never frequent enough, she says.

It’s a tremendous honor for me to feature Dorie in this series and having just met her yesterday, I can say with certainty she’s just as warm and delightful as she appears in print.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

La Vie Française. Since I can barely say hello in under 150 words, I want to add a few words to the all-important three.

I was going to answer the question with the words joie de vivre, but this wonderful expression really only describes one of the things I love most about French life. I love that no matter the situation, most French people (well, at least those who are my friends), find pleasure and joy in no matter what it is that they’re doing, and even more joy if the doing involves eating, drinking, cooking and sharing food with friends. I love the rhythm of French life. Unlike in my New York life, where days whiz by, French days seem long enough to do most of what I want to do: there’s time for work, time for coffee at a favorite café, time for a glass of wine with friends and always time for a long dinner with lots of good conversation.

Your go-to spot for a reliably good meal in Paris?

Another tough question -- I’m not good at choose-only-one-thing queries. I’m always happy – and comfy – at Le Bistrot Paul Bert (happiest when there are frites on the table). I can’t pass L’Avant-Comptoir without squeezing my way in for a glass of wine and croquettes. And it’s a treat for me to have oysters at Regis – actually, for anyone who loves oysters, I think they’re always a treat and the ones at Regis are infallibly pristine, plump and perfect.

Favorite French sweets (and your favorite spot to get them in France)?

I’m a fan of just about anything in the Ispahan family, sweets created by Pierre Hermé using rose, raspberry and lychée. I’m particularly fond of the plain Ispahan Cake, a loaf, and the Ispahan jam that Christine Ferber makes for Hermé. The “why” here is because of the perfect marriage of flavor, fragrance and texture.

And, while I’m talking about Pierre Hermé, whom I adore, I have to mention his kouign-amann, a compact round of croissant-like dough layered with sugar that caramelizes to a crunch in the oven; his miniature kugelhopf, a yeast cake that, chez Hermé, has a stretchy texture that you usually get only in the best brioche; Plentitude, an inspired combination of dark chocolate, caramel and fleur de sel – I love how the salt gives the chocolate and caramel even more flavor; and any of his macarons, because of their flavor and texture, of course, but also because of their proportions: each layer is the same thickness and so each bite has the ideal amount of ‘cookie’ and ‘cream’.

I’m fascinated by Sadaharu Aoki’s black sesame éclair, because of the surprise and the haunting flavor of the sesame.

La Tarte Tropezienne, which is not a tarte, but two layers of brioche-like cake sandwiching cream, is a favorite as much for the fact that it was created for Brigitte Bardot as for it’s fabulousness. The best place to have it is in Saint-Tropez, of course, at La Tarte Tropezienne.

More:

Madeleines from Blé Sucre
Apple tartelettes from Poilane
Apple Chaussons from Du Pain et Des Idées
Canneles, associated with Bordeaux and made famous by Baillardran
Old-fashioned (non-meringue) macarons, specifically those from Mme Blanchez in St. Emilion
Grapefruit tart from Hugo & Victor
Paris Brest from La Pâtisserie des Rêves

Something you never leave France without bringing back home with you?

I always carefully double-wrap several plackets of salted butter to take back with me, specifically beurre demi-sel from Jean-Yves Bordier, because I haven’t found an American butter quite like it. The butter is rich and the salt is bold and when the last bit of it is gone, I know it’s time to return to France.

Most amusing interaction with the French?

This is an impossible question for me, since I feel like something amusing happens to me every day that I’m in France. And so I’m going to change the question – I hope you don’t mind – and tell you about an experience that I think back to every time I’m in Paris.

My husband and I were coming into Paris from the airport. It was just after dawn and the traffic into the city was horrendous. As we approached the Place de la Concorde, the crazy circular intersection with a panorama of the Tuileries, the Champs Elysée, the Assemblée Nationale, the Eiffel Tower and the Seine, the taxi driver, who just seconds before had been cursing his fellow motorists, sighed and said: La vie est dure, mais la ville est toujours belle/Life is hard, but the city is always beautiful. The pull of the city’s beauty is powerful and it wasn’t lost on this man, who sees it everyday under conditions that could make it look anything but belle.

****

A heartfelt thank you to Dorie for sneaking me into her packed schedule while in Paris and for sharing a few of her French favorites. If you're up for a culinary challenge, join French Friday's with Dorie or the blog/baking group Tuesdays with Dorie. Follow her updates, travels and delicious creations on her eponymous blog, Twitter and Facebook.

{Photos: Author photo, book cover + baking molds courtesy of Dorie Greenspan; macarons + Eiffel Tower: Lindsey Tramuta}

Cantine California

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 19:26:00 +0000

When I set out for lunch on Saturday, I was on a mission - introduce my husband to the food truck phenomenon and sate my ever-present burger hankering. Both objectives were met but not without tremendous stress. I'll explain.

Two weeks ago, Paris by Mouth broke the news that another food truck had just hit Paris streets. When I read the name - Cantine California - I knew it was the one Kristin Frederick, chef-owner of the city's first itinerant food truck Le Camion Qui Fume, told me about several months ago. Then, the only information she had sussed out about the mystery copycat was that its theme would be Californian and the menu would resemble her own but with a twist- burgers and Mexican food. How curious. I shrugged it off, convinced that Kristin's bureaucratic suffering would deter any and all overeager food entrepreneurs from considering the truck as a viable option. I stand corrected. The American upheaval of the Paris food scene continues, time to compare.

I've been touting the virtues of Le Camion's burger to Cédric, my fellow burger enthusiast, since my first bite back in early December but their hours and locations of operation don't match his schedule and I've never had the opportunity to take him. When I saw that the Cantine would be parked at the Marché St. Honoré at lunchtime on Saturday, I coerced him to join me. He's rarely enthusiastic about trying new places unless said places happen to be unexplored, unclimbed bouldering spots in the heart of Fontainebleau.

When we arrived, there was only a small line to reach Jordan Feilders, the Canadian-American, Paris-raised owner fielding orders in front of the sizable truck. Tall, dark and handsome with an indelible smile combined with tight branding (an homage to UPS success perhaps?) and an organic ethos certainly makes for a potent package. As he slipped effortlessly between French and English taking orders, chef Jordan Powers (also an American trained at Ferrandi) commanded the kitchen where she frantically prepared burgers, tacos, carnitas, and cupcakes.

We both ordered The Dude - organic beef and bacon, beaufort, caramelized onions, blackened red peppers, lettuce and tomato on an artisanal bun - though mine without bacon. We had a choice of sweet potato or regular fries. Naturally, we opted for both.

Jordan F. informed us that our wait would likely clock in at 8-10 minutes so we parked ourselves at a high table and watched as chef Jordan sprinted from one side of the kitchen to the other and called out orders. 20 minutes later and now ravenous, Cédric and I watched as people who had been behind us in line joyfully picked up their orders first. The heavy sighing and groaning from my French half commenced. Ils nous ont oublié. They forgot us. I immediately detected the impatience in his voice and the irritation in his posture.

Please relax, I urged him. Probably just a mix-up, don't write them off yet. A minor hiccup wasn't about to foil my best-laid plans of enjoying this moment with him. As it happens, most of our arguments or spoiled experiences occur over, around or about food.

Jordan apologized profusely for misplacing our order ticket and promised our burgers were up next. I bet they forget to leave off the bacon for you, Cédric added. I didn't even have time to roll my eyes before Jordan placed our feast before us. I peeled back the greasy wrapper, inhaling sweet potato fries in the process. This must be yours, I said pointing to the bacon. No, his was identical. Apologies flew once again and Jordan F. returned the sandwich to Jordan P. who, to Cédric's incredulous shock, simply removed the bacon, plopped the bun back into place and sent it on its way.

If I were religious, I would've whined. If I had tasted even a hint of bacon, I would've whined. But I didn't and I certainly didn't want to be branded the high-maintenance customer so I stuffed the fallen peppers and lettuce back underneath the bun and indulged. For Cédric, each bite defied his expectations and quieted his grumbling. All was calm, the wave of stress had passed. He liked it.

So how did the burgers stack up? The beef was tender and juicy, less fatty than Le Camion's, the onions were caramelized to perfection and the melted beaufort brought extra flavor. But the patty seemed to small for the bun and the toppings repeatedly slipped from their places making for a particularly sloppy sandwich.

Would I go back? Definitely if for no other reason than to test drive their veggie burgers which will soon be available. Should you? Sure, especially if you put a premium on organic, locally sourced meat. But for the best in street burger dining you'll have to queue at Le Camion Qui Fume.

Cantine California
Changes location daily
@CantineCali

Franco File Friday: Meg Gagnard

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 13 Apr 2012 02:00:00 +0000

One of the people I've had the pleasure of growing closer to over the last year is someone who reminds me a lot of myself. Naturally curious about language and travel, Meg Gagnard's exposure to France and the French language began during middle school in Colorado, the same time my fascination for the two was blossoming. She spent part of her high school career studying in France before pursuing her bachelor's in Global Communication at The American University of Paris, where I completed my Master's. Somewhere between traveling the world and exploring France's many gifts, she fell hard for a Frenchman (sound familiar?) and started documenting her adventures - here and beyond - on her whimsical blog De Quelle Planète Es-Tu? (What planet are you from?). Bienvenue, Meg!

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Eye Candy and Lights

Favorite place in France to relax and recharge?

Honfleur, in Normandy. As I was thrown into the beauty of Normandy at 16 for a year abroad, it will always have a soft spot in my heart. One of my first weeks in Normandy, my host family took me to Honfleur and I found it to be one of the most precious towns I had ever seen. Recently I went to Ile Tudy on the Western coast of France which was just breathtaking. I plan [hope to] on spending a lot more vacation time there for pure relaxation by the seaside.

Biggest misconception about the French?

The beret and the nasal laughing (you know, the "honhonhon"). I don't think I've ever seen someone who lives here wearing one. Unless they are a tourist who bought one at one of those shops with the Eiffel Tower snow-globes and chunky magnets. Those berets are cute and great souvenirs, but I'm still trying to figure out why they are a part of the clichéd French identity. However I will admit that when I came to France when I was in middle school I TOTALLY bought one in orange and thought I was so French. Then I moved to Paris and realized no one ever wears them. Even some Frenchies will tell you that.

Best spot for savory and sweet?

I get my savory fix at Chettinadu at least 3-4 times a month. I went to this restaurant one of my first weeks after moving to Paris in 2008, and I still can't get enough! It is a restaurant that serves southern Indian food with a Sri Lankan twist, although according to the server there it is the "real deal". This is also where you can find the best samosa!

And for sweet: for those that know me, I find cupcakes to be not only photogenic perfection but delicious - I am completely addicted. However, for a truly French treat I'm going to have to go with the Tarte au Citron (lemon tart). Most boulangeries have them- I frequented Dominique Saibron in the 14th arrondissement when I lived around there and must say that it was the most delicious tarte au citron I have found thus far. Le Loir Dans Le Theiere also has a mean tarte au citron with an intensely artistic, rich meringue layer that has to be seen to be believed.

Most amusing interaction with the French?

Over the past 5 years I have had oh so many amusing interactions with the French that I don't think I could cite just one. From the stressed and unhurried boulangers, to the lack of humor of the RATP staff getting back from a week and a half off for strikes, to the countless nights discovering hole in the wall places across this city with strangers attempting drunkenly slurred english... But I'm going to have to go with falling for a Frenchman because it makes every day an amusing interaction- idioms and culture-clashing love included.

****

Meg's work is always entertaining and will likely introduce you to an address or two in Paris you aren't like to stumble upon. Stay on top of her eating, antiquing and globetrotting on De Quelle Planète Es-Tu? and on Twitter.

{All photos courtesy of Meg Gagnard}

Expat Comforts

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 21:45:00 +0000

During the first couple of years as an expat in Paris, waves of homesickness and leaden spirits were frequent and initially made worse by too many trips stateside. When things were good it was because Paris generously fueled my resolve to make the city my permanent home but a number of recurring expat roadblocks meant that she dispirited as quickly as she inspired.

Six years later and it's the reverse scenario that causes unease. The U.S. will forever be a source of travel excitement and adventure but not where I want to spend my everyday -a decision made even easier by these halcyon days of globalization which have brought countless Anglo imports to the capital. The meteoric rise of the cupcake, the arrival of legitimate Mexican food and the growing availability of treasured foreign food products- all are part of the city's current reality and represent a far more familiar landscape for American expats than the uncomfortable unknown it fostered in years past.

The beginning is often turbulent for expats but if you can persevere and identify a set of comforts, weathering the inevitable highs and lows will become a welcome challenge. Here are a few of mine:

| Familiar faces
Not only do I exchange pleasantries with locals in my neighborhood when I run into them at our favorite local café but I've reached the point where I've also come into contact with enough people I'd like to avoid. Avoiding acquaintances in the supermarket is universal and a sign, at least to me, of home.

| Becoming a regular
I don't frequent enough of one café for servers to anticipate my order but they do acknowledge who I am and welcome me warmly. Whether at the bakery, my favorite hangout, the local bookseller or cheesemonger, this sense of community and overall chumminess uplifts in the face of fleeting twinges of homesickness.

| American friends
It took my six years to build the (small) handful of French friendships I have today. The first two years were rough - it didn't matter how good my French was even then, I had yet to develop the mannerisms (in this case, Parisian) that would make them feel like they could bring me into their group. It wasn't until I began interning that I made a couple of close French friends and even then, there was always an invisible barrier. We can see each other this much, but not THIS much. These aren't the kinds of friends I'll ever really feel comfortable calling on in a bind or just to chat over the phone. The language isn't the issue nor is my level of integration - the dynamic between us just isn't the same. You just can't shoot the breeze the way you can with other Americans.

Fortunately, Paris is brimming with American expats and I've forged a number of tight friendships, both in likely and unlikely places (grad school vs. twitter). Most of these relationships require very little effort to nurture and involve getting together more than once every two months. We just get each other.

| Burgers
Forgive me for perpetuating French stereotypes about the American diet but it's hard to stop myself from squealing with joy that there are burgers in Paris no longer of ill repute. No need to feel ashamed, they're as worthy as any other sandwich. I've talked about this in-depth here, here, here, and here but it should be said that I keep going back for more not because I grew up eating them regularly (I didn't) and therefore need them (I don't) but because no matter how you frame it, there's nothing that lifts the spirits quite like comfort food. This is my version of eating Ben and Jerry's from the tub.

| Tacos and Tostadas
Unlike my friends hailing from the west coast, I didn't grow up eating tacos, tostadas, or anything remotely Mexican. I've discovered my fondness for these wildly delicious specialties thanks to El Nopal, El Guacamole and Candelaria and have grown to associate them with home. They're as exciting and novel for me as for Parisians and, according to said west coast friends, as authentic as this city is going to see. Bring on the pico de gallo.

| Coffee shops to sip, read and lounge
Coffee shop culture isn't the same as Parisian café culture. In my former American life, I spent huge chunks of time ensconced in giant leather armchairs, alternating between chais and lattés and reading until I was kindly asked to leave. Third spaces that offered warmth, companionship and quality beverages were both a source of studious inspiration and calm, particularly when I needed it most. I can sit and people-watch for hours at a Paris café but with acrid coffee and cold waiters, they just don't hug like a coffee shop can. But the shift is underway, here. Coutume, Kooka Boora, Telescope and, my favorite, Merci's used books café are all suitable contenders with knowledgeable (smiling!) baristas and sating snacks. All that's missing are the bottomless armchairs.

| Philadelphia {cream cheese}
When I told friends from home that I'd be hosting a live show on Facebook every Friday in March with 2 top chefs for Philadelphia France, they laughed and said "who eats that?!" I do. And it's the moment you don't have easy access to something that it becomes unbelievably appealing. Fortunately, it's no longer necessary to pay 6-8€ for the imported stuff, the brand is now widely distributed throughout Europe. (if you're curious, the videos are available here).

What would land on your list?

Sunday in Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 23:37:00 +0000

Thursday, 4pm: a metro car packed full of zombied urbanites yawning in unison. Menacing clouds hang heavily above ground, weighing not only on my mood, it would seem, but on everyone else's around me. One more work day before families gather for a three day weekend for Pâques. Judging by our faces, it's clear we all need this Easter break.

When I think of Easter, I imagine lush suburban yards accentuated with spring's vibrant blooms and nattily dressed children running about blithely trawling for painted eggs and chocolate bunnies. Doesn't the holiday evoke such a Hallmark scene for all Jews? Maybe just me. Unfortunately for all, there will be no such blooms or children frolicking in spring attire this holiday weekend because true Parisian weather has returned, gray and grim.

Predicting this was to come, we took advantage of the week's last bit of blue skies and spent the day neighborhood-hopping before parking ourselves under the sun in Luxembourg Gardens. After a blissful twenty minutes of lounging with our heads back and eyes closed, we were roused by the sound of incessant giggling from the group of Japanese students seated next to us. Just as we turned our heads, we see a giant ball of fur scurry beneath our feet, having been released from a cat carrier into the open for gaping eyes. One of the young girls grabbed the animal and paraded him in her arms for curious onlookers.

There was no need to fear, it was just a fluffy rabbit. We never learned where they got him or why he was there but I like to think he had anticipated Easter weekend's gloom and came to bring an early dose of spring holiday spirit.

Here's hoping you have your own bunny sighting and fair weather, wherever you may be.

French Work Culture

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 21:43:00 +0000

Five weeks vacation, recurring cigarette-espresso breaks and two hour lunches are among the stereotypes perpetuated about French work culture and I can say from experience, only two of three are still true today. Lingering over glasses of wine and copious lunch plates for two hours is a habit rapidly slipping from convention as is the notion that the French are unproductive.

It occurred to me recently that my career actually began in France. I worked retail in the States throughout college but nothing full-time and nothing I intended to make a lifelong vocation. That said, my reference is slanted and I base much of my understanding of American work-culture on what I remember and what my close friends and family describe. My professional experiences in Paris have all been part of an international context and so I've been exposed to the work styles and ethics of individuals from all over the world. This also means that my observations about French work culture reflect a very specific sector - advertising/comm/web (where business suits raise eyebrows) - but are likely applicable to other global industries.

When I first set out to do a post about work culture, I used my husband's environment as a comparison - a traditional French company with approximately 11,000 employees and part of a massive French conglomerate. But I also wanted a couple of other expats who have worked in France longer than I have to include some of their insights as well.

| BASICS

Vacation: reserving time for travel and personal time is as entrenched in French culture as those extended lunches that once helped define the workday. Vacation time begins at 5 weeks but can reach anywhere from 10-12 weeks depending on RTT days (paid days off resulting from the reduction in statutory weekly working hours from 39 to 35 hours). My husband has colleagues who have saved an entire year's worth of vacation to take it the following year in one go. Can you imagine a U.S. company allowing someone to take an entire month off, even if it is owed to them? This does not, however, mean that the French are unproductive. They simply understand that to remain productive they need time to relax and recharge. They're also not the only Europeans with generous holidays - Germans, Danes and Italians average more off days than the French.

Subsidized lunches: companies that do not have an on-site cafeteria generally offer partially subsidized meal vouchers (tickets restaurants or ‘tickets resto”) worth between 6.50-10€. Meals in company cafeterias are also inexpensive and quite varied. The shift to eating-on-the-go (or eating-behind-screen, as it were) is increasingly prevalent where meal vouchers are provided.

Health Insurance: I have French healthcare (sécurité sociale) but most large companies require employees to take supplementary coverage called a mutuelle. The fees per month vary but can range anywhere from 20-30€ depending on the plan and amount of coverage you choose. I love having an engineer for a husband because he amused himself creating an excel chart to track our medical expenses. Given my endless series of doctors visits and personal pharmacy of medications to treat my back, having that coverage was invaluable. We definitely recovered our investment.

Transportation Coverage: most companies will cover half the price of a monthly metro/bus pass. Given the amount I use public transportation - anywhere between 3-6 times a day - this gesture is significant.

Katia, an Australian expat in Paris, has worked with the French for ten years and is still struck by how seriously employee rights are taken. She says, "when it comes to knowing their rights, the French are far more conscious. She says, "whether it's working hours and holidays or the type of of task an employer is legally allowed to ask you to do. I still find it fascinating to witness the automatic reflex of "let's look up the code du travail or the convention collective" whenever there is any kind of discussion about "rights".

| ETHNOGRAPHIC OBSERVATIONS

Hierarchy : even in increasingly relaxed and informal professional settings, adhering to hierarchy is paramount. One of the ladies from La Mom remarked that there is no open-door policy unlike at the American companies where she previously worked.

Openness: I'm always surprised by how much personal information is shared among colleagues during work hours. Illnesses, family matters, money troubles, work complaints - dirty laundry is aired freely both in and out of the office. Unlike the uber-American cubicle, open-space setups help to facilitate these sorts of discussions. Similarly, post-work apéros and dinners are as common and frequent as lunching together during the day - decline too many offers and you'll find yourself branded the outcast for lack of integration. The separation between professional and personal life, at least in my current experience, appears blurred. While I find it refreshing to see so many strong bonds, I also sense the danger in such candidness. (Note: this is very true for my company + industry. French colleagues are far more reserved in more traditional settings.)

Cigarettes and coffee... motivate breaks almost every hour. In most cases, business is discussed between puffs and sips but you can always tell when a meeting has run too long by the frantic tapping of cigarette packs on the table. Work hours are growing longer and longer in many industries which begs the question - is there more work or is it to compensate for all the breaks? Likely a mix of the two.

Politically incorrect: crude jokes, sexual innuendos, culture bashing and general inappropriateness have, at one time or another, shocked the puritan sensibilities of many Anglo-saxons. I like to tease my colleagues by reminding them how many lawsuits they'd likely have against them if we were in America to which they giggle riotously. Though I'm still not impervious to their blows, living in France has shown me how unnecessarily uptight most of us (Americans) are, with a tendency to conflate innocent joking with harassment. Of course there are exceptions to this and I've seen the French take things too far. La Mom recalls having her American accent ridiculed in an interview - more than just un-PC, it's plain unprofessional.

What I found most interesting after talking with Katia and La Mom was just how different their insights were from mine, likely a result of industry and tradition. How does this differ from your experience?

Franco File Friday: Nicola Williams

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 02:00:00 +0000

Among the many professions I fantasized about pursuing as a kid, travel writer seized my interest the longest. The idea that it were possible to be compensated to explore and document the world - in most cases, an extension of one's natural curiosity- appealed to my restless adolescent self. The stories of my parents' honeymoon backpacking through Europe in the 70's rang in memory but at that time, I still hadn't step foot off American soil nor was I in posession of a passport. Hard to envisage a trajectory as an intrepid globetrotter under those circumstances.

My first trip to France proved to be a catalyst, not so much for a writing career but for a future in France. Still, planted in France and on a different path, I greatly admire the work of travel writers. Meeting one writer in particular in January only cemented my admiration for the craft.

In the serried ranks of the travel section of your local bookshop, you're certain to find a selection of Nicola Williams' work. A British freelance travel writer, Nicola got her start in Lithuania, traveling extensively through Eastern Europe, before finding herself more settled in France in 1996 when she began writing for Lonely Planet among other publications. For the last ten years, she's been based in a lakeside village on the southern side of Lake Geneva but travels regularly throughout France, Italy and Switzerland for her work. She effuses about Provence's picture-perfect splendor in one of the many guidebooks she's authored and knows the ins-and-outs of the Côte d'Azur and Languedoc regions.

An erudite Francophile and world traveler, Nicola shares some of her favorites from France.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Art de vivre.

Your most coveted spot in Paris for savory and sweet?

Tricky, tricky, so many wonderful addresses in Paris and so incredibly varied for someone living like me in a provincial French village. I was thrilled to discover the turbo-powered vegetable juices and salads – so creative – at Nanashi in the Marais this time around; and I can still taste the exquisite mackerel and onions with sweetly caramelized leeks I had for lunch one day at Au Passage – where else can you eat so well in such simple, unpretentious, veg-crates-in-the-window surrounds?! For sweet, it has to be the Maison Georges Larnicol for its outrageously chewy, syrupy kouignettes (mini Breton butter-cake twirls) and miniature glass jars of copper caramel au beurre sale, conveniently sold with a little spoon should you be unable to wait until you get home.

Of all the places you've covered for Lonely Planet, which is the most underrated?

Lyon is massively underrated, essentially because Paris steals the limelight: very few people bother to venture beyond Lyon’s airport (springboard to the Alps) or the A6 to Paris that swings past the city. I lived in the old hilltop quarter of Croix Rouse for eight years and absolutely everyone who came to visit expressed the same unexpected delight in a city which, from away, evokes very little or no expectation. Our apartment was a 19th-century silk weavers’ loft-workshop with fabulous 4m high ceiling, enormous beams strong enough to hang a table from, and a line-up of big windows looking out to the basilica atop Lyon ’s other hill, Fourvière. It was a dreamy outlook and a dreamy existence, completely typical of a city where food shopping is done at the market, the theatre and slow dines entertain after dusk, and Sunday mornings in winter means freshly shucked oysters and a glass of white partaken with friends outside on a pavement terrace.

Best place to relax and recharge in France ?

I’ve spent many years exploring every last nook and cranny of Provence and the south of France, and every time I sail to Porquerolles I crave a return trip to relax rather than work. The island is the ultimate digital detox, positively tropical in its flora and fauna, and slow-paced to the point of being vintage – no motorized vehicles, just pushbikes or your own two feet to get from perfect sand beach to perfect sand beach to fish restaurant.

Most amusing interaction with the French?

Our family has become so integrated in French life over the years – my three children were all born here, flit from English to French without thought, consider themselves ‘French’ – that I’m afraid I don’t have any ‘Merde happens-Stephen Clarkesque’ tales to tell. The kids always get a giggle out of my name (Nicola sans ‘s’) which, in French, is masculin. There have been plenty of embarrassed silences the other end of the phone line when a French person has asked to speak to ‘Monsieur Williams’ only to be told they are indeed speaking to moi! Oops.

****

Thanks, Nicola! For her updated whereabouts, recommendations and in-the-moment snapshots, follow Nicola on Twitter and her blog Trip Along.

{Photo credits: all courtesy of Nicola Williams except Porquerolles - courtesy of Steffen Ramsaier}

*This week I talk Paris pastries and candy for Wayfare Magazine! To read, click HERE.

The Hive: European Blog Conference in Berlin!

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 20:55:00 +0000

The start to 2012 has proven to be full of unexpected opportunities. In February, I spoke on the "What's Eating Paris?" food panel for Social Media Week alongside locals David Lebovitz, Ann Mah and Elodie Fagan of Yelp! Paris which marked my first time speaking in public since college. It was a fantastic experience and I think the topic really engaged the audience (that and David's wit). For a replay of the talk, click here.

Shortly after, I was invited to speak in May at The Hive, Europe's first blog conference which will be hosted in Berlin. Over the course of two days, some 22 bloggers from all over Europe will meet to speak on a variety of topics ranging from food photography to blog etiquette and dealing with negative feedback (Anne's topic!). The conference is open to all - readers, writers, photographers - and will hopefully set the stage for future gatherings in Europe.

This is certainly new territory for me and I'm honored to share my experiences for burgeoning bloggers. I'll be discussing ways to balance work + blogging (and a social life) which, I ought to add as a caveat, is a personal work in progress. I have by no means solved the time conundrum but I will offer some of the steps I've taken to maintain a somewhat sustainable rhythm. Maybe talking it all out will help me improve my tactics! Speaking on a panel definitely offers a comfortable cushion but I intend to rise to the solo challenge.

I'm looking forward to meeting potential readers in addition to discovering Berlin for the first time! I welcome any restaurant or activity recommendations you might have and hope to see you there.

{Conference timetable}
{Conference tickets}
{The Hive on Twitter + Facebook}

Franco File Friday: Pierre Hermé

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 23 Mar 2012 03:00:00 +0000

Just teasing! No, the macaron master Pierre Hermé is not in the Franco File Friday spotlight today (though how fantastic would that be?) but I knew it would steal your attention. Another francophile will make an appearance in the series next week but until then, I thought I'd share my indulgence of choice in honor of spring's sweet arrival.

{Indulgence + Solidarity}

For the 7th consecutive year, the first day of spring was celebrated in Paris with a macaron tasting in select pastry shops around the city. A complimentary macaron was offered in exchange for a small donation to support the foundation Autistes Sans Frontières (autism without borders). A positive initiative that doubles as a brilliant marketing strategy.

Last year, Pierre Hermé doled out three macarons for the cause but dropped down to one which meant when I finally approached the counter to select my flavor, I caved. I came on a solo mission and left with a small family. The impatient sales girl whipped out a large, cellophane sachet and dangled it above the rainbow colored cookies, seemingly hinting that I'd be doing myself a disservice by opting for only one. After all, there was ample space in the sachet and realistically, how could I narrow my selection to just one flavor when there were so many I was eager to try?

I reasoned that given my usual indifference to these treats, it would behoove me to try additional flavors just to, you know, make sure I hadn't somehow missed the flavor combination that would turn me into a believer. My problem with macarons reflects an even broader issue I have with bite-sized desserts - they evoke a chorus of "cute" and "adorable" and inevitably leave me craving more. One bouchée activates the senses but a handful is required to really feel sated.

Leaving the foreign crowd agape before the vibrant display, I headed straight to a café to meet a friend who I enlisted to help judge my selection: the Ispahan (rose, litchi and raspberry), the Mutine (milk chocolate and coconut), the Pietra (crunchy hazelnut praline) and the Mahogany (salted caramel, coconut and mango compôte). To my surprise, I loved every nibble of the Mutine and Pietra but determined the Ispahan flavor combo is better in croissant form.

Four macarons later, the verdict is still out, having yet to find the flavor that makes me grasp the frenzy surrounding these miniature treats. There's always next year.

Winner of last week's Cara Black book contest announced here !

{Weekend reading: my Paris picks for a girls getaway on Wayfare Magazine! Click here to read.}

Spring Break

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 00:18:00 +0000

At about this time last year, I was readying myself for a grand transition - out of one start-up and into another with only a measly day in between. Flush with this fleeting freedom, I headed south for a long weekend in Marseille and Aix-en-Provence to properly mark the occasion. Far from the gridlock, relentless Parisian complaining and muddy river waters, I welcomed the disquieting unknown that lay ahead by soaking my toes in the turquoise Mediterranean - a French doctor recommended cure-all.

Now veering headfirst into Paris spring with abnormally mild temperatures, my inter-season restlessness has descended violently. Not even terrace revelers and an early picnic season have succeeded in lifting my funk.

It's silly, really. Paris has no shortage of new cultural events and restaurants to test, including this public carnival I wrote about for the NYT (which was great fun), but I find myself turning in circles. I'm intrigued by a lot of what's happening around town but I still feel drained from the last, overly eventful six months and have swapped regular urban excursions for the comforts of neighborhood coffee dates and weekends bumming around in my jammies.

I've surrendered to my annual early-spring-blues and barren creativity for which not even the charming cobblestone streets around Montorgueil are a proper cure. No, this resignation can only be relaxed by hauling myself out of the city for a weekend in the country or, better yet, by the sea. As fortunate as I am to have spent my last vacation in China, it was anything but rejuvenating and I desperately need to hit restart.

Weary during a quick dinner last week at Hotel Amour, I slammed my (fifth) baguette wedge on the plate and announced rather emphatically to C that I needed to get away, even if onlly for forty-eight hours. He nodded, sensing my growing frustration, and agreed to plan a getaway for early April. "On a besoin de se retrouver", he said, which basically means we need to get away together, reconnect. I'm hoping this will come in the form of a first trip to Brittany but wherever the destination, may it beget new momentum and a much needed attitude boost.

Where would you go for a quick recharge?

{photos from Colette Carnaval HERE}

Franco File Friday: Cara Black (+ giveaway!)

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 04:00:00 +0000

Most people come to Paris for idyllic adventure but rarely, if ever, for the dangerous variety. Unlike the tough image that other European cities might elicit (think: a rougher, more flawed veneer like Berlin, Istanbul or even parts of London), Paris is far more tame. Like a capricious cat, the occasional hiss and swipe might be part of her game but ultimately she cajoles far more than she bites. That's how most of us perceive the city.

For Cara Black, mystery author of twelve books in the bestselling Aimée Leduc series, the danger lurking in each Paris neighborhood is very real. A San Francisco resident most of the year, Cara has been coming to Paris since the early 80's and knows firsthand after years of extensive research, perhaps better than us locals, that the city is much more than its royal vestiges - it traffics in the macabre.

Murder at the Lanterne Rouge, Cara's 12th Leduc novel, was just released last week and has all the evocative trappings of a powerful mystery - a likable protagonist (who dashes about on a moped wearing Chanel), a commanding backdrop and loads of trouble and intrigue. For mystery lovers who can't get enough of Paris, there's nothing better than this series.

I was eager for Cara to share her thoughts in this series given her rather particular relationship with France

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Provence at dawn

Most surprising thing you've learned about Paris through your research?

That sections of the KnightsTemplar wall remains in the Marais (3ème off of rue Charlot) and the base of an old tower, too. I stumbled on this when I was researching the quartier for Murder at the Lanterne Rouge. I heard Polish workmen arguing from inside a courtyard. Being curious (a snoop) I snuck inside and saw this incredible thick walled base of a cylindrical tower and it gave me shivers. The workmen shouted at me to leave. The next day I returned with a small box of macarons and they invited me in with open hands !

Favorite place in France to drive your creativity?

Square Georges Cain on rue Payenne in the 4ème. This quiet, green oasis is strewn with bits of sculpture, architectural remnants, almost like a medieval graveyard of statues and weary Parisians grabbing a lunch time nap on the benches. To me it's where the past and present come together in a very Parisian way. It kindles my curious side and I always find stories.

Something important to know about the French?

True friendship among French people is not given lightly. It's valued and built up over time. A treasure. Once established and you've become a real friend, much thought and care is given to maintain and value this bond.

What you're eager to bring back from France?

The most beautiful giant book of Atget's black and white photographs that sits in the bookshop of Hotel Sully and awaits my extra empty suitcase. Haven't lugged it home yet!

****

Perhaps Cara will visit these parts again to share some of the city's dark secrets. In the meantime, Soho Press has graciously offered me a copy of Cara's latest, Murder at the Lanterne Rouge to giveaway to one lucky reader! To enter to win, leave a comment below with the most mysterious, unnerving, or frightening experience/moment you've had in Paris. For those who have never been to Paris (or France), share a similar experience from any of your travels. I will announce the winner at the bottom of this post next Friday, March 23.

{UPDATE: Congratulations to Leslie! Please email me with your mailing address to receive your copy of the book!}

For more information on Cara, her work and her heroine Aimee Leduc, click here.

{Black & white photo: Lindsey Tramuta | Lost In Cheeseland; author photo: LAURA SKAYHAN/RANDOM HOUSE}

Paper'd

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 18:52:00 +0000

California native and entrepreneurial web designer Jamie Varon wasn't supposed to stay in Paris. Her plan was to continue traveling through Europe - Spain, Sweden, Italy and beyond - all while working remotely. Our paths weren't likely to cross but thanks to the fortuitous grace of Twitter, they did.

Last August, when locals skipped out of Paris for their month-long urban hiatus, Jamie and I met for coffee at one of my local hangouts and swapped stories like old friends. At that time, she was in the grueling midst of a project she hoped would drastically transform her business.

A tight-knit friendship formed instantly and she became not only a creative inspiration but a source of support, encouragement and constant laughs (at a time when I needed them most). I've seen the project go from conception to production and knew I wanted to be involved in some capacity once it scored its wings.

As part of her company Shatterboxx with Nicole Antoinette (click here for their own web-to-world story), she's designed hundreds of logos, websites and vanity pages, including the celebrated blog The Bloggess and even my company, Lola's Cookies. But this other endeavor would mean far wider reach and an expansion of the Shatterboxx brand to previously unexplored territory.

Paper'd, a free lifestyle-inspired wallpaper app for iPhone, launched yesterday to a flurry of enthusiastic users and a laudatory feature from digital giant Mashable. Jamie is the first to admit that tricking out your iPhone isn't really necessary. Some might not even see the value in owning it. But what she has tried to do is offer professionally-designed expressions of our interests - making the device we're so attached to a little bit more representative of ourselves. I know some of you love to travel and especially love Paris, so I thought the travel collection (both with in the U.S. and abroad) would be of particular interest.

With inaugural downloads exceeding their expectations for the entire week and displays of support from travelers, athletes, musicians, designers, web geeks and everyone else in between, Paper'd 's brilliant founders are destined for digital greatness. I've already updated my phone and even caught my nosy metro-companion ogling my selection this morning!

The exciting news is that I will be collaborating with the ladies of Paper'd on a photo collection! The specifics have yet to be defined but I suspect it will have something to do with getting lost in cheeseland.

To learn more about Paper'd, click HERE. To download on iTunes, head over HERE. The app features over 200 wallpapers (which will updated regularly) is free to download and holds additional collection for in-app purchase. You can also follow their updates (with sneak peeks of future collections) on their Facebook page and on Twitter.

Franco File Friday: Mr. Cheeseland and 1 Year Anniversary!

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 07:21:00 +0000

At this time precisely one year ago, I started thinking about all of the people I've met or exchanged words with in Paris since I started this site. While our interests, backgrounds and professions varied drastically, we bonded over a common love for France. A love that wavers at times, resurfaces in full force at others but nevertheless remains an integral part of each of our lives, en France or abroad.

Realizing that the personalities of these individuals - who are friends, writers, bloggers, photographers, mentors, inspirations, and icons - would likely appeal to my readers, I created a series that I never anticipated being able to sustain for more than a month. What began with a brief interview with my Francophile friend Susan turned into Franco File Friday, a weekly feature that celebrates its first birthday today.

Aside from the group of Francophiles you've met over the last year, I've also introduced you to natives who not only love their country but warmly embrace the expat community in Paris. To mark this occasion, I wanted a visit from someone very special to me. He rarely appears on this site, lacks a regular internet presence and would rather be climbing rocks in Fontainebleau than following what's hot in the city but I wanted to share his perspective.

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Paris, landscapes and baguettes !

Go-to place in France (outside of Paris)?

One of my passions, in addition to my wife, work and cat, (in this order. No really.) is rock climbing which led me to a wide variety of places with different ambiances - some breathtaking and outstanding, others crowded, isolated, or austere. One of my favorite spots is "Les Calanques" (coves) near Marseille in the south of France. Only 3 hours from Paris by train to a place that immediately makes me feel like I'm on holiday. There is a lot of sun and beautiful white limestone cliffs along the Mediterranean Sea. I've been there many times to visit my good friend and fellow rock climber who stays all year round and I just love it. I've even be there a few times with a certain someone (*lindsey*) who appreciated it for its peacefulness despite caring little about the amazing climbs!

Must-try eatery in Paris?

I recently had a wonderful experience in a French restaurant with a Japanese twist called Le Sot L'yLaisse located in the 11th arrondissement. The restaurant is very close to the famous "Père Lachaise" cemetery. It is definitely not a traditional french bistro (except for the bare deco) where you would go for any random occasion, it is a place where you will discover an interesting fusion of French tradition and Japanese imagination. I especially recommend the "Risotto brun au foie gras" which was to die for! I really loved it, I think it is one of the best restaurants in the area.

Favorite memory as a Parisian?

A delightful memory that comes to my mind is the day I spent with my wife shortly after we met, walking for hours along the streets of Paris. It was our first date so it had to be special but it is clear now that the fact that it took place in the center of the city, under a perfect blue sky, made it unforgettable. I remember I played tour guide at the time, sharing with her some of my favorite places, but now the situation is reversed as she knows way more than I do about the Parisian way of life !

Most amusing foreign stereotype about the French ?

I find it very interesting how many people think the French are rude, snobby and hate Americans! I will agree on the rudeness…we are not very warm with foreigners. I have spent a couple weeks by myself in the USA on business trips and on holiday and each time I find people so welcoming (maybe too welcoming) to the point that I asked myself at first : why are they so nice to me ? To defend the French though, we do warm up after a little while but it takes some more time than what most of you are used to!

****

There's definitely a chunk of my expat trials and tribulations that touch on his last point - maybe a story for another day. Thanks to all of you who have expressed an attachment to this series, you definitely keep it going!

**I also wrote about what Mr. Cheeseland and I did for Valentine's Day last month over on Haven in Paris! Read that and my review of Playtime here.

7 Super Shots

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 00:05:00 +0000

I was recently tagged by Philadelphia-based photographer Christian Carollo (whose photos of Philadelphia are absolutely stunning) in the latest photo project from HostelBookers called 7 Super Shots. Each participant selects photos from their travels that best fit seven categories. Though challenging to narrow down, these are my picks:

1| A photo that takes my breath away

Hard to believe I took this well over a year ago from the balcony of Susan's suite at the Westin but the view, with its figurine-like people and iron beacon, never ceases to tug at my heart.

2| A photo that that makes me laugh or smile

No trumpeting? That was my initial reaction when I saw this no-honking sign in Shanghai. I know I perplexed the group of street vendors who watched me snap the photo but my fellow travelers and I had a good laugh.

3| A photo that makes me dream

Well, two photos. Of the places I traveled in 2011, Toulouse made the most lasting impression. The emblematic exposed brick, the warm-colored buildings and narrow streets charmed in ways I hadn't felt since my first trip to France. A city big enough to get lost a few times but small enough to know your neighbors.

4| A photo that makes me think

Of insouciant vacation and morning optimism.

5| A photo that makes my mouth water

I may not have grown up eating much fried food but you don't need prior experience to know that these bits of buttermilk fried chicken from Verjus will literally seduce your taste buds. Tender, juicy meat that melts in the mouth with a perfectly crisp exterior. You might scoff at the idea of eating American comfort food in Paris but if it's well executed and bring you joy I say, why not?

6| A photo that tells a story

My father-in-law, Wall Street, June 2011. This shot could easily fall under the category "a photo that makes me smile" because I can't help but light up a bit whenever I see it. The summer of 2011 will forever symbolize by in-law's very first visit to the United States, as much an eye-opening experience for them as it was for me. New York City performed as I expected, evoked equal parts shock and awe. Gazing up at the Manhattan skyline, surrounded by tour groups and business suits, I believe my father-in-law felt both.

7| A photo that I am most proud of

The blustering wind made all attempts at focused photography difficult but my eyes were locked on the guard's calculated movements. I wanted to capture this beautiful moment of orderly procession but I was quickly losing feeling in my fingers. Seemingly anticipating my intentions, the third guard turned in my direction and my finger instantly released.

I am taking part in HostelBookers 7 Super Shots! Loads more photos HERE.

I pass the 7 Super Shots torch to: Kasia Dietz, Misadventures with Andi, Prêt à Voyager, My Beautiful Adventures and Sending Postcards.

Franco File Friday: Maggie of Eat Boutique!

noreply@blogger.com (Lost In Cheeseland) — Fri, 02 Mar 2012 05:00:00 +0000

Birthdays. Holidays. Anniversaries. Baby showers: all occasions where gifting is not only customary but expected. Living abroad, the already laborious task becomes even more unenviable. Not being able to spend much time with my friends and family means that I've lost some sense of what appeals to them now and, consequently, what they'd most like to receive as gifts. Fortunately, online shopping has largely unburdened gift-giving and has drastically transformed my habits. I almost exclusively order from U.S-based boutiques when I want to send a little something home and one of my favorites is Eat Boutique.

An online magazine and artisanal online shop launched in 2007 by Maggie Battista, Eat Boutique is geared toward food enthusiasts (me) who appreciate and seek out local, handmade comestibles. With the help of a team of contributors, Maggie shares inspired stories, reviews, recipes and brilliant photography that complement an impeccably curated series of themed, seasonal gift boxes available for purchase. I've ordered from EB a handful of times and the enthusiastic response I receive from my recipients is reason enough to keep supporting their small business (now if only someone would offer me one of their gift boxes!).

But that's not all. As Managing Director of Haven in Paris, the short-term apartment rental company, Maggie has succeeded in marrying her two great loves: France and food. Her job frequently brings her to Paris and Provence where she indulges her Francophilia and hunts for French treats to tote back with her to the States. Read on to learn more about Maggie's French favorites....

Describe what you love about France in three words.

Craft. Stories. Wine.

Craft: This country is dotted with artisans who excel at something that others gave up doing by hand ages ago. Always inspired by them, I return home with a notebook full of ideas and aspirations to be half as good.

Stories: When I can manage to utter my few French words with some sort of crooked elegance and the receiving party admits to speaking English, there’s potential for a good heartfelt story. The French are great storytellers.

Wine: Five Euros for a decent bottle of wine cannot be wrong. Ever.

Favorite place (outside of Paris) to explore?

The seaside towns up and down the Côte d'Azur.

Best eats in Paris?

I gravitate toward spots that deliver on both food and experience – I want to feel welcomed and comfortable – so my favorites are spots like Le Baron Rouge, Le Petite Pontoise, and Glou. I’m sure I’ll discover new favorites on this trip to add to my Paris Mini-Guide.

Generally, I think the best eats are in your personal Paris kitchen. I encourage everyone to rent an apartment and shop your local market – I love the Marché Raspail and the Maubert Mutualite Market – for your dinner. A slice of sauccison, salty butter, a warm baguette and a glass of Champagne are deeply satisfying.

What you can't leave France without?

Handmade food, of course! My luggage is always packed with various sweet and savory treats from all over the country. I often return with new Bretagne salt, just-discovered jams and preserves, and every day kitchen tools. But I also return with treats I make myself.

On the very first day of a longer trip to France, I buy bunches of French grown herbs from my local market. After a few weeks of drying hung on string in my apartment, the leaves are stripped from the stems and mixed to form my own sort of Herbes de Provence mix, which I give away as homemade food souvenirs. When I combine the dried herbs with some good salt in tiny jars, my gifts for the year are complete.

Most amusing encounter with the French?

I attended a private 12-course dinner in Paris a couple years back. One of the dessert courses was a tiny, homemade treat that we eat consistently as kids in America. The French guests at the table were moaning as if they’d just eaten the best dish of their lives. It was a Rice Krispies treat and when I explained that it was a childhood treat in the States, they felt very deprived by their mothers! It amused me for days.

****

Thanks, Maggie! As it happens, she's in Paris right now and will be selflessly hauling back a variety of French food and cooking products for a limited edition Paris-themed gift box she is offering on Eat Boutique. To learn more about that, click HERE. Otherwise, join Eat Boutique on Facebook, and follow Maggie on Twitter!