Greater Louisville Bonsai Society

Basic Wiring

admin — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:51:00 -0400

by George Buehler

Last month we presented a paper on the techniques of repotting. Now that the tree is repotted, it is time to wire the branches/trunk to obtain the desired shape. This can be a daunting prospect if you are new to bonsai, but because wiring is one of the necessary fundamental tasks in bonsai, working to develop this skill is essential. With practice, wiring will become second nature.
There are a couple of points to understand before you begin wiring a tree:

1. The sole purpose of wiring a bonsai is to change the direction and shape of the branches and trunks and to make them conform to the owner’s concept of the perceived design. Therefore, before you begin, you should have a basic concept or what you want the tree to look like when the tree is “finished”.
2. The way that wiring works is that, in bending the wood, you stress, and sometimes damage the cells. The tree while repairing the damage grows into the shape imposed on it by the wire.
3. Wiring is stressful for a tree and if you wire a weak branch or tree, you may lose the branch or even the tree.
4. There are proper methods to wiring (these will be discussed below).
5. The best time to wire is dependent on the type of tree but is generally considered to be late winter or early spring. As we will see later, this may not be the best for the tree.

WIRE TYPE
Before we begin the discussion of wiring techniques, we need to discuss the type of wire to use. Bonsai wire is available in copper or aluminum. Aluminum is available in two types, Plain (Silver), and 'Anodized', where the wire is given a brown coating. When you ask a fellow bonsai enthusiast about the best type of wire, he definitely will have a preference for one over the other. As with most things, there are advantages and disadvantages for either.
Copper wire is annealed (controlled heated to soften it and make it easier to bend). It should be stated that trying to anneal copper wire at home is not recommended since the wire can be overheated and become brittle or even melted. Copper wire is generally more expensive than aluminum. However, copper is somewhat stronger than aluminum and a thinner gauge of wire can be used vs. aluminum. As the copper ages on the tree, it turns a darker color and becomes less obtrusive to the appearance of the tree. However, sometimes copper wire (due to environmental conditions) will develop a green patina caused by oxidation of the wire (technically called verdigris). This oxidative state can be harmful to some types of trees – especially stone fruits.
Many bonsai enthusiasts are now using aluminum wire because it is cheaper than copper and is somewhat easier to wrap onto the limb. However, since aluminum is weaker than copper, it requires a larger gauge. There is also the idea that there is more capability for “stretch” with aluminum, so that as the tree grows, there is less chance of cutting in and scarring of the bark. I personally don’t agree with this idea since use of either aluminum or copper can cause scarring if not done properly or if left on for too long a period of time. Aluminum can also be toxic to some varieties of trees but if the aluminum is anodized this is a minor problem.

WIRE SIZE
Bonsai wire is available in different sizes from 1.0 mm to 6 mm. There is no set rule on what gauge of wire should be used for a particular branch or trunk thickness. It is normally suggested that the wire gauge (thickness) should be about one third of the diameter of the section to be wired. The decision on wire gauge also is dependent on the degree of bend desired. If you will be making a drastic bend, a heavier gauge will be required than if a minor bend is implemented.
A way to determine the proper wire size that I use is to hold a wire, which you believe to be the proper size, about one inch from the end of the wire and push on the branch you are going to bend with the end of the wire. If the wire bends, you will need to go to the next larger size. If the branch bends then you may have the proper size wire or perhaps too large a wire. Try going one size smaller and repeat the experiment until the wire bends, then move back up one size.
If you underestimate the gauge of wire, there is not much of a problem. You can simply get another wire and wire it parallel and as close as possible to the first wire, without crossing wires at any point. The important thing to watch is that the wires are very close together and do not cross each other. A number of ‘experts’ sometimes recommend that it is better to use two strands of wire rather than a larger single gauge as the pressure of the wire on the branch is more evenly distributed and the wire will not cut in the bark as quickly. For more drastic bends this is probably correct. However, for smaller branches, it is sometimes difficult getting one wire on correctly, let alone two!

SOME THINGS TO CONSIDER:
If you are trying to wire a soft-barked tree (such as a cork bark variety or if you are new to wiring), wiring can be very difficult without damaging the bark. To solve this problem, you have two options. The first is to wrap the wire with something such as florist tape to protect the bark (procedure below). The second is to wrap the branch with raffia (detailed below). Both have their pros and cons. If you are wiring when you can get a good view of the branch (i.e. when the tree is dormant), raffia is probably the best choice. If you are wiring when the tree is budding or are wiring a conifer, wrapping the wire prior to use works well.
When wiring, consider the tree’s individual characteristics. Some trees are easier to wire at certain times of the year. Different parts of a tree will vary in the length of time necessary for the branch or trunk to set in the desired place. Some varieties will tolerate drastic wiring and others will not.
The amount of time to leave the wire on is dependent on several variables. One is the size of the limb or trunk being wired. If the size is ½” or less, the time should be about 12 to 16 weeks. If it is over ½”, it may take as long as two years. If the wood is pliable (like a tropical), it generally takes longer but is more prone to scarring by the wire. If the wood is more brittle (like a pomegranate) it may take as long as 6 months. To prevent breaking brittle branches, you can “massage” the limb. To do this, you hold the branch starting from the trunk and with the thumb and forefinger, work the limb toward the tip. You may have to do this a number of times to get the branch pliable enough to bend it. If you let the tree dry down, the cells of the branch are easier to bend since they are less “turgid”.
When wiring, it is better to leave the wire on longer than you think is necessary as long as it is not cutting into the tree. Sometimes the tree will revert back to its original form over a period of a few weeks, so it is better to wait as long as possible to ensure the tree is set.
Avoid twisting the branch or trunk. Think about the bend you want to accomplish and bend it once as you wire.
DO NOT wire a weak tree! It will only cause more problems.

BEST TIME TO WIRE
If you read various bonsai books, most authors recommend that the tree be wired in late winter or early spring. However, wiring can be done at almost any time of year. Each season has its advantages and disadvantages. Generally, major wiring is done at the time of pruning, for easier access.

Spring: with spring, the plant is starting its active growth cycle and it is easy to break off a delicate branch when wiring or to damage the soft bark. It also must be realized that the trunk and branches are thickening quickly and the wire can quickly cut into them. Care will therefore need to be exercised so that the wire is not exceedingly tight when first wrapped. Periodic monitoring of the wired tree will need to be done to ensure that the wire is not cutting into the tree. The advantage of spring wiring is that the tree is developing new cells around the trunk and limbs while they are being held in their new positions, thus helping the process considerably.

Summer: This is a time when the cambium is full of sap and this makes it easy to cause separation of the bark from the wood if drastic bends are made. Smaller branches are more hardened at this time versus spring and may be wired more easily. One of the main disadvantages for this time of year is that the tree is full of foliage, which gets in the way. Also it is difficult to wire without catching the leaves under the wire. Catching foliage under the wire must be avoided since it can rot when bunched up and may cause other problems including making an ideal nest for insects. From an aesthetic point of view it also looks messy and unattractive. If some foliage should get caught under the wire, it needs to be removed immediately.

Autumn: Wiring at this time of year generally shouldn’t be done since the tree is starting the process of setting new buds for next year’s foliage or flowers.

Winter: For deciduous trees, this is the ideal time to wire since there is no foliage and you can get to all the branches quite easily. Remember, though, that buds should be treated with great respect and all care should be exercise not to knock them off. The wood on the trees can become quite brittle at this time of year and bending has to be done with caution. Since the tree is not thickening at this time of year, the wire can be left on longer without risk of scarring the wood. Also as the sap is draining down at this time of year, the setting of the limb or trunk is somewhat aided.

WIRING AIDS

Florist Tape
Florist tape, obtainable from craft stores and some florist shops, is a thin green tape that is on a spool similar to ribbon. The process is quite simple. Cut the length of wire needed to bend the desired branch and starting at one end of the wire, start wrapping the tape around the wire in a spiral pattern. I generally wrap two turns at first and then start the spiral pattern. The key here is to pull the tape tightly so that it stretches slightly - but don’t pull so strongly that you break the tape. You want the wire completely covered with the tape and no wire showing. I try to overlap the tape with about ¼ of the width of the tape. When you get to the end of the wire, simply make a couple of parallel wraps to secure the tape. This method works with 1.5 mm wire and above.
The tape I have is a dark green and blends with the foliage. The problem I have with this method is if the tape is not wrapped tightly, it will have a tendency to slip as the wire is wrapped around a branch. When I do use this method, I take extra time to make sure that I pull the tape tightly to secure it to the wire. I also sometimes wrap to the end of the wire and then reverse the wrapping to get a better bond with the wire.

Raffia
Raffia comes from the leaves of palm tree usually found in Madagascar. It can be purchased in craft or hobby stores as well as a number of bonsai stores. It comes in balls, braids and hanks which when uncoiled have lengths about 3 to 4 feet. When dry it is quite fragile but when wet is quite strong. Using raffia essentially adds an additional layer of bark which helps prevent cracking and rupture of the natural bark when you bend the branch or trunk. It also helps prevent premature ‘biting’ of the wire into the branch. Applying the raffia can be tedious and care must be used to prevent breaking off any buds or small branches. It is also difficult (or for me impossible) when the tree is in full foliage.
Start by taking 5 to 7 strands from the bundle and tie one end in a small knot. Prior to use, it should be soaked about 30 to 40 minutes in warm water – when they are thoroughly wet, they will be almost translucent. Using 2 to 4 bundles of wet raffia form a flat ribbon by gently drawing the bundles between your thumb and forefinger. Starting at the end closest to the base or trunk, spiral the ribbon of raffia around the branch while holding down the end piece for several turns before cutting off the knot. Ensure that you are applying the raffia in the same direction that you will be applying the wire. Support the branch with your left hand while your right hand pulls the raffia ribbon around the branch tightly (or the reverse if you are left handed). During this process, you need to support the branch carefully so as not to break the branch. The tighter the raffia is, the better it will support the bending later on. As mentioned above, you have to be sure not to capture any foliage under the raffia.
Continue wrapping the raffia all the way to the end of where you will be applying the wire. When you do reach the end, you can tie several strands of raffia to hold it in place until you start applying the wire. The wire should be applied before the raffia dries. Also after wiring, the raffia should be wetted during the daily watering. It will keep the underlying bark moist and protect any hairline fractures that occurred during wiring.

I personally only use raffia on trunks or very soft bark because it is a difficult task to learn. I prefer to use the florist tape on smaller branches because you only have to wrap the branch once – with the wire coated with the florist tape.

ORDER OF WIRING
In order to make wiring easier, there is a general order for wiring trees. Since older trees have more branches, the wiring process can become rather complicated if a fixed order is followed. Therefore, with older trees, simply start from wherever is easiest. For those branches that are more difficult to reach, you can simply leave them to last, which assumes that some of the other branches will be bent out of the way so that the more difficult branches can be reached. For young trees, you should start at the bottom of the trunk and gradually move upwards. After wiring the trunk, wire the first branch from the base to the tip. Then wire the first twig on the first branch, from the base to the tip. Proceed to the second twig on the same branch and so on. When you have wired all the twigs on the first branch, repeat the process with the second, third and fourth branch. Finally, start wiring the top, beginning at the base and proceeding to the tip. Looking at Figure 1 will show the basic flow of wiring.

WIRING TECHNIQUES
As with all bonsai procedures, there are “rules” to wiring. For wiring, they are rather simple. We won’t list the rules in any simple form. If you read the following techniques, these rules will be covered in the description. Your first (or even second) wiring may not look like a professional did it. However, since the wire will generally only stay on for a short period of time, you will have many more opportunities to improve your techniques.
The best wiring is evenly spaces, has no crossing wires, is unobtrusive and has the end of each wire before or at the end of each branch (Fig 2). The most important thing to remember is that the start should be secure to either the trunk or to a branch. Wiring should be slightly tight but not too tight or there won’t be any room to grow. If it is too loose, there will be no strength and the branch will not be held in place. The ideal angle is 45 degrees when viewed from all sides (see Fig 3).
If the spirals are too close, the wire acts as a spring and will not hold the tree in place. If it is too widespread, strength will be lost. The 45-degree angle makes use of all the strength available in the wire. To determine how much wire will be necessary to complete the job, measure the length of the branch to be bent and add one-third the length. Remember it is better to have more than what is needed, rather than less.

Wiring the main trunk: Anchor the wire by sticking it into the ground at the back of the tree. If possible stick it in the soil behind a strong root for extra strength. The trunk is then wired at 45-degree angle spirals (Fig 4).

There are basically four different modes of branch growth: forked, alternate or staggered, and opposite. The opposite or “bar” branch makes the tree artistically appear too symmetrical in form. Therefore, one branch is usually removed.

Forked – by wiring two branches of the fork with one wire, each branch holds the other. The important thing here is that wiring at the crotch of the fork should be secure and firm (Fig 5). The procedure is to begin at the fork, holding the wire at the back of the fork with one hand and then bringing the wires around and through the fork from the front, to form and upside down “V”. Wire a couple turns on one branch and then after wiring the other completely, return to complete the first one. If you are going to wire only one of the branches, wrap a couple of turns on the one that is not to be wired which should be enough to hold the other. If you are widening the fork, both sides of the fork should be wired. Caution should be used for this procedure since the fork is a reasonable weak point in trees.

Alternate or staggered branches – this is the most common wiring that you will do. When you are wiring, you should try to wire two branches at a time since this acts to secure the beginning of the wiring on each branch. Start by treating the lower branch and the main trunk as a fork (Fig 6). After doing a couple of turns up the main trunk, wire the lower branch. This is the same procedure that you would use if you want to wire only one branch. After wiring the bottom branch, continue up the trunk to the higher branch. Make sure that the first half turn, on each branch, is parallel to the main trunk.

Wiring forked branch with one wire – the wire is anchored around the main trunk, and the branch is double wired until the fork is reached. The double wire is then divided to wire both branches. This results in a more continuous shape along the entire branch, as well as more security (Fig 7). The problem here is trying to determine what size wire to use. If both branches after the fork are the same size, then wire size selection is easy. If they are not, as is generally the case, you need to select the wire for the smallest branch. If the larger branch (after the fork) doesn’t hold, you can wrap another length of wire on it (you will need to start the wire back on the trunk to secure it).

Wiring branches downward or upward – when bending a branch downward, the first half turn of wire should come over, then under the branch (Fig 8). When bending a branch upwards, the reverse is done, that is, the wire approaches the branch from below (Fig 9).

ADDITIONAL TIPS

Clockwise or counter clockwise wiring – if you are working on a branch on the right side as you look at the tree, counter clockwise wiring will help bring the branch forward; clockwise wiring will help push the branch away. If you are working on a branch on the left side as you look at the tree, the reverse is true. To determine the clockwise or counter clockwise direction, look at the branch from the end back toward its base.

For right-handed people, you will probably find it easier to hold the tree with your left hand and do the wiring with your right hand. Therefore, if you turn the tree around so that you are always working on the right side, the orientation for your hand preference will be correct. You will need to remember the clockwise/counter clockwise directions for right side wiring stated above. For left-handed people, you will be turning the tree so that you are working on the left side. It should be noted that the “forward” and “backward” directions refer to the current position of the tree and not the front and back of the styled bonsai.

Many experts recommend doing both the wiring and bending at the same time. By that we meanapplying the wire with one hand and starting the bend with the other. The risks are that you can break off the branch. I sort of compromise. I wrap a section of the branch (usually anout one half the length), stop the wire wrapping, bend the branch (using both hands and only that portion of the branch that is wired), then continue the wiring to the end. I then put the final bend on the branch. If at all possible, you only want to bend the branch once to keep from causing severe damage to the limb. If I am trying to bend the trunk, I wrap the whole trunk with the wire, then do the bending.

When a young shoot develops on the trunk in a place where a branch is desired, wiring should not be done too early, as the shoot may snap off while still tender. However, most buds will begin to grow vertically and the angle so formed at the base of the branch will be unattractive and difficult to correct later on. The solutions are to wire carefully in summer when the shoot is semi-hard or to pull it down with the use of string in late summer.

It is not always necessary to wire a branch depending on the circumstances. If the branch needs to be bent down, a weight can be applied to it to bend it down. The problem is to find the correct weight to get the desired bend. An additional problem is that the weight will ‘blow in the wind’ and can actually tear off a delicate branch in one or our thunderstorms. Another method to bend down the branch is to attach a length of wire to the branch and secure the opposite end to either a larger branch below or to a wire attached to the pot (Fig 10). The wire can be twisted several turns as needed to bring the branch down. This method doesn’t work on new season branches and is not effective on thick heavy branches. An important point is that where the wire goes over the branch to be bent, some plastic tubing should protect the branch.

Even if you do everything right, you may still have a broken branch. If your branch does break while you are bending it, leave it as it is and apply sealing putty. Do not move the branch for the rest of season and it will likely heal. Quite often, if you are making a drastic bend, you will hear the wood cracking. Once again, stop and examine the limb carefully. If you can see any cracks, stop the bending, leave the wire on until it needs to be removed, and wait until next season to continue. If you see no evidence of cracks, it is probable that the wood has cracked under the bark. You can ‘carefully’ continue the bend, but use extreme caution and listen carefully. If you hear any additional cracking, stop bending and once again wait until next year.

UNWIRING
When it is time to take the wire off the tree, the wire should be cut off not unwound (Fig 11). I have seen several articles where some Japanese masters unwind the wire. Unless you are thoroughly skilled, this to me is foolhardy. The wire can’t be reused (unless it is re-annealed), you run the risk of breaking off foliage or even the branch you spent so much time trying to bend. Using a bonsai wire cutter is the recommended method. I typically start at the main trunk, cutting the wire from it and then start on the branch. I cut the wire at each location where the wire is ‘facing’ me. I can then twist the cut wire off the branch with no damage to the branch. One important thing to mention is that even though a bonsai wire cutter is designed so that it will cut the wire and not the branch; take it from me it can also cut off the branch if you are not careful on small branches.

Reference:
Bonsai Nature in Miniature; K and I Murata
The Bonsai Handbook; D. Prescott
Bonsai, Its Art, Science, History and Philosophy; D. Koreshoff
The Bonsai School; C. Coussins
Bonsai A Care Manual; C. Lewis

Bonsai Study Group

admin — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:45:00 -0400

by John Callaway

I’m happy to announce the formation of a new bonsai study group. Over the next year, we will work to progress our knowledge of bonsai and, as a result, improve our trees.

What types of things are discussed?
- Proper repotting techniques
- Grafting of Japanese Black Pine
- Carving deadwood
- Wiring deciduous and conifers

During the last 2 meetings we have focused on repotting using Boon Manakitivipart’s repotting DVD as a guide. We have also discussed growing Japanese Black Pine from seed, using Mr. Kusida Matsuo’s technique. During the summer meetings, we will continue Japense Black Pine care and the decandling techniques developed by Saichi Suzuki.

Who should attend?
Anyone and everyone interested in the art of bonsai. There will be something for everyone. Whether you’re a beginner or a life-long bonsai enthusiast, you’ll certainly find a place in the bonsai study group.

When are the meetings?
Meetings of the bonsai study group are scheduled in advance for the optimum time for proper bonsai work. The next meeting will be Saturday, April 4th at my home in Shepherdsville, KY. For more information please visit the website
(http://www.matsubonsai.com/blog/page/Bonsai-Study-Group.aspx) or feel free to email or call.

Spring Show Info

admin — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:44:00 -0400

by Earl Ekman

BEGINNER WORKSHOP – April 2nd, 6:30 PM
Last year I did a demonstration for the Beautification League Garden Club and all those in attendance were interested in doing their own tree at a workshop. They meet at the Nunnlea House 1940 Hurstbourne Lane and they want to do their workshop there. After discussion with several GLBS club members and the Beautification League, the date was set for April 2nd at 6:30 PM. I recently talked to Judy Timmering, their president, and she seems to think there will be 10 to 13 participants in the workshop. Tom McCurry, James York and I made a trip to Brussel’s and picked up some nice staked-up junipers for this workshop and future ones. We will need lots of help from club members to make this a successful event. I will make sure all the material is available at their meeting, but I will need lots of help. Please help out by attending this workshop. Bring some tools. Everything else will be provided.

ANNUAL YEW DELL GARDEN BONSAI SHOW – April 24, 25, & 26
The Yew Dell show will be held at the gardens in Crestwood, KY April 24 – 26. This is Friday through Sunday. Friday will be the set-up day, and I will start at 9 AM setting up tables and backdrops. If you can get away and spend a little time helping with the preparations, I would greatly appreciate it. Our time is fairly limited; we have to be out of the barn by 5 PM. All preparations, set-up, and delivery of trees and stands has to be done prior to 5 PM. You can drive in the rear entrance and park next to the barn. This is the same location we used last year, and it turned out to be a spectacular show. We will need approximately 45 trees for this show. This is less than we had last year. Bring your best trees, and it should turn out about right.
Last year we sold trees for the club and club members. But this year, the Yew Dell staff wants to charge us the same as the other vendors. Based on our previous sales and the cost of the booth, it was decided the club would not sell material. We will still promote beginner workshops and a raffle tree, plus encourage people to join the club. Please contact me at 222-7419 if you can volunteer some time to work the show. It is always a lot of fun.

ART IN THE ARBOR – May 9 and 10
This is an arts and crafts show at which we will be selling finished bonsai as a fund raiser for the club. One of our members – Steve Reeves – is in charge of the Art in the Arbor show and has arranged to secure us a free booth. Our club will only display 2 or 3 trees, but we will sell bonsai already finished. We will also raffle a beautiful tree and sell beginner workshops. As always, we will need members to work the booth and talk to all the people. When you have spare time, this is a wonderful show to visit booths, see the art work, listen to the music and eat the great food. I promise you will have a nice time.
If you can work for a couple hours, please give me a call – 222-7419.

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AT THE HOLLANDER NURSERY DIG
I would like to thank all the members that took their time on Saturday to travel to southern Indiana and dig trees for the club. It was a lot of work, but we had a lot of fun. This was done as a fund raiser for our club but all who participated left with some nice trees and great bonsai material. Thanks for all your help, It was greatly appreciated.

Botanical Perspectives - B Vitamins

admin — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:43:00 -0400

by Ross Clark

Believe It Or Not: The Brown Bottle Sacred Cow, Defrocked

Most of you are probably familiar with the tale about the emperor’s new clothes. This is an “emperor’s new clothes” story.

Just in case you have forgotten it . . . Once upon a time, there was a very self-important ruler of a small kingdom. His word was law; no one dared to disagree with him. Everyone bowed and smiled as he passed by. The imperial life was good; he was a very secure, very relaxed monarch. One day an enterprising tailor received an audience with the emperor, to show him a truly remarkable new line of clothing no one else had ever seen or worn. Naturally, that idea had great appeal for the ruler. As the tailor lifted, carefully displayed and oohed and aahed over the clothes, the emperor became more and more pleased and excited. However, as each of the emperor’s close advisors quietly watched, it became obvious to each of them that the tailor was showing the monarch invisible–or imaginary–clothes. Naturally, each of the advisors kept it to himself, dared not say anything, and continued to smile and nod his approval. So, the emperor bought the “clothes” and wore them as he rode a white horse in a parade down the main street of his capital city. Everyone bowed, smiled, and secretly noted that the emperor was not wearing a stitch of clothing. But no one dared to utter the naked truth. No one, except one little boy, who cried out, “Why look, the Emperor has no clothes on!” Naturally, once the truth came out, there was quite a general commotion, with everyone laughing and repeating what had been obvious from the beginning: The emperor was wearing nothing at all!

I am that little boy, and I have been watching the emperor and hearing about his new clothes for years. Only, it’s not clothes, folks. It is B-vitamins.

Fortunately for us, plants will tolerate some unnecessary treatment we give them, and thrive in spite of it. One of those totally unnecessary things is feeding our plants B-vitamins. Do you swear by it? Have you heard bonsai gurus swear by it? Do you do it regularly, especially after transplanting or root pruning? Then, by all means, continue to do it if you believe in it, if it makes you feel better. But you should know that there is no experimental evidence to suggest that giving plants B-vitamins by any method at any time for any reason helps the plants. If you supplement with B-vitamins, you are making yourself feel better, not your plants.

Vitamins are essential for basic metabolism. Without B-vitamins, our cells cannot release energy from carbohydrates, make proteins, and do other basic tasks that keep us alive. Without vitamins for metabolism, we would die quickly. (Fortunately, B-vitamins are fat-soluble, so to an extent our bodies store them in body fat for later release.) Animals cannot make most of the vitamins they require. We have to eat plants and other animals to acquire the vitamins we need to stay healthy and develop normally. If our diet does not provide adequate vitamins, or as we get older and our intestines don’t absorb them efficiently, we often take vitamin supplements or higher doses.

So, if we have to get many of our vitamins from outside ourselves, don’t all organisms need vitamins from elsewhere? No, they don’t. Plants (and some other organisms) make all the vitamins they need for metabolism. There is no evidence that plants need any vitamins from external sources. The only raw materials plants need to make all of their required vitamins are a balanced supply of certain inorganic chemicals in the soil (non-carbon-containing ions in water), carbon dioxide from the air, and sunlight. When roots need B-vitamins, those vitamins are moved into the roots from other parts of the plant, or synthesized from raw materials, using the energy stored from photosynthesis to drive the vitamin synthesis process.

When I was young in the 1940s, my mother used to feed me a few drops of brown liquid from a medicine dropper every morning. It smelled just like that stuff you can buy in the brown bottle from the bonsai supply place. Hey; it was the same stuff; what she gave me were B-vitamins.

Today, many people, at least once in a while, give their plants the same treatment my mother gave me. Back in the 1980s, the dosage was one drop per gallon; today, it seems to have been increased to about a bottle’s capful per gallon. Are bonsai today healthier today than in the 1980s because of more B-vitamins? Of course not. But whoever makes that brown liquid stuff is smiling all the way to the bank. And I’m still smiling at the bonsai’s new clothes.

So, who of you will tell the nationally known sensei that B-vitamins are a bunch of bunk? Well, don’t look at me; I certainly won’t say it. I’ll just bow and smile and agree. And, if it makes you feel better, just keep feeding your plants those B-vitamins. At the concentrations you use, you will not hurt your bonsai. If you feel better because of it, you certainly will take better care of your bonsai. That’s what really matters.

It would not be right for me to take up newsletter space without a positive lesson, so here goes. What should you do after repotting to lessen transplant shock? Well, to lessen water loss, we all know we need to put recently repotted trees in a low moisture stress location, in the shade, where they will not lose moisture as fast. And at the other end of the plant, we need to get the roots back on track to increase their ability to absorb after being pruned back. The best way to do that is to keep the roots moist (but certainly not wet), and warm. In extreme cases or when a repotted plant is in precarious condition, you might want to use a heated propagation mat; it will help speed up the formation of new young roots.

Inorganic Soil Mixes - Reprint

admin — Sun, 01 Mar 2009 17:24:00 -0400

by John Callaway

This is a reprint from the July 2006 issue of the Greater Louisville Bonsai Society newsletter.

There are nearly as many bonsai soil recipes as there are bonsai trees in the world. It seems that just about everyone has their own mix. The important thing is to find a recipe that works for you and your trees. Your soil mix should provide enough water retention to sustain the tree between watering, yet be loose enough to allow for adequate drainage. You must also consider your fertilizing routine when planning a soil mix.

Soil mixes with organic components tend to retain more moisture, as well as retain more fertilizers. This means that if you are fertilizing often then you will need to be careful that you do not overload the soil with fertilizer. Too much fertilizer may burn the fine feeder roots.

More...

A Bonsai Soil Primer

admin — Sun, 01 Mar 2009 17:17:00 -0400

by Ron Martin

This article was featured in bonsaitalk

Do you ever wonder why there are so many different kinds of bonsai soil? Why, no matter whom you ask, you will get a different answer?

When it comes to soil, strong opinions abound, and it is just about as easy to talk politics or religion as it is bonsai soil. Just about the only thing that most of us agree on is that bonsai soil must have good drainage. After that, the fight is on.

If there are so many different opinions, why do they all work? Well most of them anyway...

Trees, like all living organisms, can live in a wide range of conditions. Exceed this range on either extreme and one winds up with firewood. Stay within it and the tree will somehow survive. Obviously, the closer you get to the middle of that range the happier the tree is. The closer you get to the extreme sides of that range, the more the tree struggles to survive.

The range of conditions for survival is much wider than most of us think it is, and that is what makes all those different soil mixes work.

1. Purpose of Soil
Soil provides the following:
Something for the tree to anchor itself in
Nourishment
Moisture

If your mixture accomplishes this in close to the proper amounts and close to the right time, it will work. The tree will survive. Maybe not thrive, but at least survive.

2. What Makes a Good Soil?
What makes a good bonsai soil is not so much what the ingredients are made of, but the function of those ingredients. All soils, not just bonsai soils, are made up of the following:
A. Organic materials
Basically, organic materials are composed of dead, carbon-based life forms: rotting plant materials of various types, like leaves or bark; dead animals; insects, and what is called in polite circles animal byproducts (animal poop to us uncouth individuals). This material not only provides nutrients, but also acts as a storage place for moisture.
B. Inorganic materials
Basically, rocks. Inorganic materials are things that have never been alive and have no purpose other than providing air pockets in the organic materials. These air pockets provide drainage of excess water and place for the gaseous exchange necessary for the roots to do their thing.
Getting these two ingredients into the proper proportions is the critical problem. Having them come together and still allow for good drainage is the next part of the equation.
Since water flows more freely through loosely packed material than tightly packed materials, the drainage part is easy to work with. Using larger, more irregular shaped material will aid in the drainage. Water will flow through it more freely than fine round particles. This is true of both the organic and the inorganic materials.
All organic materials will decompose. As they do, they release the nutrients that are stored in them. Your bonsai feeds off these nutrients. Problem is that as this decay occurs, the particles of organic materials get smaller and smaller. Eventually they turn into powder, and then drainage becomes a problem. The surface tension of the finer particles will actually hold more water in your pot. This affects the amount of gaseous exchange going on around the roots. The standing water starts a rotting process in the roots and trouble begins
While the inorganic material does not rot, the powdered organic material soon fills up the air pockets caused by the inorganic material. Now the final result is assured. The roots rot and the tree will die of thirst surrounded by, of all things, water.

3. A Workable Soil
So how do we come up with a mixture that will work? Just what kind of ingredients do we use? And why will they work? How do we mix soils with the proper pH and drainage?
All good questions and ones that I hope to answer without getting crucified too badly: it is, after all, a touchy subject in the bonsai world!
Over the years I have seen soil formulas that range from pure organic material through pure inorganic materials. And I hate to say it, but, every possible combination in between. I have to ask myself if even a small part of these different mixtures will work.
The answer to this is a surprising YES! But, one must qualify that “YES” with the following:
FOR A WHILE.
Based on what material you used, the tree will live, so long as:
It is not overwhelmed with nutrients
It is not overwhelmed with water
It is not overwhelmed with drainage
And, if there is such a word, if it is not “underwhelmed” by them as well.

4. A Balance of Needs
There is a balance in what the tree needs and, as long as this balance is mostly met, survival is the order of the day.
There is cycle of nutrition, moisture and drainage. As long as this cycle is met, any of these soil mixes will work. The problem is just how long each mix will perpetuate that cycle.
By understanding each of the components found in a workable soil mix and using them to their best advantage, the needs of the plant can be met for a long time.
There is no one soil mix that will work on all bonsai, in all climates, nor in all sizes of bonsai pots. I am not going to come up with the magic formula. I doubt if anyone could.
Hopefully I will be able to explain what the components of a bonsai soil will do for you. By using this information, you will come up with something that works in your particular bonsai world.

5. A Practical Soil
All useable soil mixes have one thing in common: Good drainage. They will hold moisture, but excess water will just flow through it. More than anything else, drainage is a function of the particle size in the soil. Naturally the larger the size of these particles the better the drainage. But just what size should they be?
Most of the literature I have seen recommends that they should be no smaller than 3/32”. This would be a good place to start. A little experimenting on your part is called for here.
The size of the particles must be as efficient as possible. Too large is as bad as too small. We do want excellent drainage, but not the free flow of water. There must be some restriction to that flow. This will allow the ingredients in our soil time to soak up some of the water. This will also cause the water to flow more evenly through the soil. The larger the particles, the less restriction there is and the quicker the water flows through the pot. Too big and it is a straight shot from the watering can to the drainage holes in your bonsai pot.
Remember we are looking for the soil to do more than drain. It is what the tree is anchored in. There must be enough of it in the pot for the tree to do that. Larger particles will not pack together as well as smaller ones. A loose anchor is as bad here as it is in the Navy.
The size of the pot you use will also be a factor. The larger the pot, the more drainage becomes a problem. The shear volume of soil acts as a barrier. Increasing the particle size helps to ensure proper drainage.
But if I use that same soil in one of those tiny Mame pots, I may get a few grains of it in there. Not very efficient at either anchoring the tree or trapping moisture for it.
So there is no “one-size-fits-all” here. The 3/32” size can always be adjusted it to suit your specific needs.

6. Porosity
As I said earlier, inorganic materials are basically just rocks. For the most part they provide the air pockets for the gaseous exchange necessary for the root and also aid in drainage. But since there are two kinds of rocks (porous and non-porous), they can serve two separate functions.
Something porous will help trap moisture and nutrients. Obviously this is of some importance to the tree.
A good example of this would be crushed lava stone (not really a “rock,” I know, but close enough). Something non-porous would just provide air pockets within the surrounding soil; but if that same item had a rough texture instead of a smooth one, the effect would almost be the same. Those little nicks and crannies would serve the same purpose, just not as efficiently.

7. Inorganic vs. Organic - Understanding the Extremes

A. AN ALL-INORGANIC SOIL
Given the right texture and size, would our bonsai grow in a purely inorganic mixture? Yes.
There would be no food value to it for the tree, and watering would be a constant chore. These things would have to be supplied on a regular basis. The rocks would provide an excellent anchor for the tree.
Since we would be supplying the water and nutrients, and the soil supplying the drainage and the anchoring, it would work. It would give us almost total control over our little tree. Not really a bad thing but a lot of work for us.

B. AN ALL-ORGANIC SOIL
Using a purely organic material would also work. The tree would grow. But, as the organic material decomposes, the particles become smaller, eventually turning into dust. Again, this fills up the air pockets and blocks free drainage.
So the all-organic mix will work, at least until the soil decomposes enough to close the air pockets!

8. Inorganic + Organic = a useful blend
Adding organic material to the mix does a lot for us. As the organic components decay, they turn into the nutrients necessary for the tree to feed on. Organics will also hold onto moisture much longer than inorganic material, which frees us up to do other things.
Combining organic with inorganic material gives us a more useful soil. But with this combination comes a shelf life. The soil becomes more efficient, but the decomposition of the organic material takes its toll. Periodically we have to replenish the soil. Care must be taken when choosing that organic material. The decay rate must be taken into consideration.
BARK
The most popular material used in today’s bonsai soil is probably pine bark. When wet it does hold onto that moisture quite well. It decomposes rather slowly, but quick enough to provide nourishment for the tree. Cypress and cedar on the other hand would last longer but would decay at a much slower rate. Not really providing enough nourishment to be worth your while. Aged manure would supply water retention and all the nutrients needed, but it would break down in much too short a time.

9. THE “PERFECT” BONSAI SOIL?
So just what does all this gibberish mean? Just what is the perfect bonsai soil? Just what should you use for the organic as well as the inorganic material? Should you mix them together or not?
Good questions and I only have one answer to give: MAYBE
A lot depends on your watering and fertilizing habits, the type of tree you grow and the size of your pot. The climate you live in will also fit in that answer somewhere. So will the availability of the ingredients.
That last item has got to be an important one. If things like Akadama, Terra-Green or Turface are not available in your area, then they are next to worthless. Shipping cost to get them brought in could really play havoc with the wallet.
Knowing the functions of these soil ingredients could, however, make it possible for you to find something that would do the job just as well.
Whether or not to mix organic and inorganic materials together will be a decision you will have to make on your own. Putting organic material in the mix will help you nourish the plant. Water retention will be better. But you will have to decide if you want this help or not.

10. What Works for Me
I have found that a soil blend that blends organic and inorganic components works best. My pines and junipers seem happy with a mix of 1/3 organic to 2/3 inorganic. For deciduous and tropical trees, I increase the organic component to about 50% of the mix. The major difference in these two mixes is the amount of moisture they will retain. The conifers like a somewhat dryer soil. Less organic material cuts back a bit on the water retention.
My organic material of choice is fir bark but this is in short supply in the area of South Carolina where I live, so I swapped to regular old pine bark. A littler lower in nutrients and doesn’t last quite as long, but it has a leg up on the fir bark. I can get the pine bark.
My inorganic material is a 50/50 mix of Turface and aggregate (small rough rocks). But if I could not find these then I could swap to something like crushed lava stone and coarse blasting sand. Both would, after all, serve the same basic function.

Summary
For the most part, the tree couldn’t give a squat about the growing medium. Just as long as it fulfills the proper function at the proper time, in the proper amount. The tree doesn’t even care about the color of the growing medium.
But here I must draw the line! I do at least want my soil to look like soil. Bonsai is after all an art form, but, I don’t want to go down that Pop Art road.
I started on this article in the hopes that I would answer some questions. Reading over it, I am not sure I did. But hopefully I have you asking yourself the right questions.

An understanding of the “why” usually will lead to the right answer. Hopefully I have explained the “why“.
Now all you have to do is put it all together!