Woodworking Blogs at LumberJocks.com

A favor for my students

tooldad — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 02:21:58 GMT

One of my assignments, when allowing students to pick their own projects, is for them to make an idea book. What is required of them is to come up with a general project, hopefully on they plan on building, and find at least 20 examples of that type of project. Example: Nightstand or Medicine Cabinet, etc. Each example is worth a total of 5 points equaling 100. They get 2 points for the photo of the project, one point for the manufacturer or the builder of the project, and 2 points for the overall dimensions. They also get a bonus 2 points if they can produce plans or instructions for that project.

What my goal is for this assignment is for them to look at several examples of a project they are about to undertake. Most of them don’t think about or even realize the design possibilities. Some are as simple as rounding the front of a nightstand top, or routing a flute in a vertical piece. Others don’t know how tall to make a nighstand, computer desk, sofa table, etc. So this helps with design and proportion.

This is where you, Lumberjocks, come into my equation. I have encouraged the students to explore this site. about 6 of my 40 have. Maybe this assignment will get more students exposed to LJ. Please be supportive in giving information about your project if one of my students are to ask you for permission to use your photo in their assignment, give them your name, you can use your LJ name for privacy reasons if you prefer, and any dimensions for the project. You can also send them plans or drawings if you would like.

Thanks for your support and help.

Tooldad

Holtzapffel workbench project #7: building the twin screw vise

martin007 — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 00:57:01 GMT

Hi all

Well, I couldn’t afford the 350$ + for the wooden screws, and I didn’t like the look of the black plate on the veritas twin screw vise. So I built my own using 2 tail vise screws (40$ each)

First I built the big wood pieces that will old the metal nuts. I didn’t want to use through bolts and opted for a drawbore mortise and tenon attachment.

I used the smallest bit that I could for the hole, The screw is 1 1/16 and I used a 1 1/8 bit. I found It helps to reduce sagging but it calls for precision. I waxed the holes because the screws do run tight. but pretty smooth nonetheless. Once the screw holes were drilled. I marked and drill the holes for the nut’s screws. Note wich nut goes with wich hole, the nuts might not be exactly the same. At the end It will help making the screw run smoother.

I dry fit the blocks and hold them very tight with clamps, then I aligned the vise chop and clamp it also. I then used the drill bit I used for the hole to mark hole center on the chop.

Now I can attach the nuts. While I tighten the screws, I monitor how easy the vise screw runs.

I decided to install the nuts in this manner instead of boring its way into the block. I think it might help to reduce sagging plus it is easier to install

I didn’t picture the process of the attachment of the vise screw head to the chop, but it is the same as with the nuts. I then try the vise. Once satisfied I removed the chop and proceeded with the drawbore holes

Oh yeah, I also glued them. LoL they won’t come off!

25 inch beetween screws, chop 4 inch tick 6 1/4 by 33 ash from 8/4 lumber

little tapper permitted, I guess more if the holes in the chop were bigger, something to thing of, maybe a future modification

Almost no sagging, If you run the screws in synch (not tapered) the chop runs nice, when some taper, they put on more resistance. Overall very satisfied.

Now it is COMPLETED

thanks

Beech Slabs #1: Still in log form but starting the slabbing process...

woodchips — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 19:38:17 GMT

Well these are the two logs that a homeowner in my neighborhood gave to me and a friend. So we have begun cutting them into slabs with a Stihl 044 Magnum, seems to work well enough with a 36” bar. The slabs will be about 4” thick. Are those thick enough to resist crowning and bowing once they are stacked and stickered?

Anyway not sure what I’ll do with the slabs but a large dining table does come to mind. And certainly a live edge coffee table but I’m not sure anyones going to want a 200 lb. coffee table. Oh well, at least it will be beautiful!

I’ll keep ya’ll appraised of the slabbing process with pics and updates from time to time. I’m in Michigan so got to get it done before it turns really cold.

ps. if anyone has any experience working with Beech, please chime in because prior to my spalted beech small box, I’ve never worked with Beech at all.

thanks in advance for any tips or tricks inherent to Beech,

~isaac

kitchen Cabinets #2: Dust Bunnies

bmh032 — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 18:14:22 GMT

When i first designed these cabinets I really wanted to have them look like peices of furniture as opposed to cabinets. The posts go a long way in achieving that look, but I figured taking out the kickplates would really seal the deal. I had thought about the dust bunny conundrum. I figured if dusting underneath the cabinets became too much for my wife and I, I could always add kickplates later without any trouble. I’ve designed my kitchen like my workshop since I do most of the cooking so all of my tools will be at the ready when I need them. Since we redid our kitchen and floors we had to take out the brick covered drywall behind the old cabinets they had to come out. So we have been living without a kitchen sink for about 3 months now. We take all of our dishes to the basement mud sink. I’ll deal with the pain of putting upper cabinets in after base cabinets. I was also thinking of making concrete countertops myself for the cabinets. I want a solid surface, but I don’t want to spend all of the money for granite. If anyone has any suggestions please tell me.

Boy's Cherry and Walnut Dresser #8: Dresser Finds a Home

Patrick Jaromin — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 16:39:20 GMT

I completed the baby’s room over the weekend and “installed” the dresser last night. Since this is more a remodeling project, I’ve posted the project page over at HomeRefurbers.com.

While I designed this piece to last a lifetime, and not to compliment the room design, I think it looks reasonably “at home” in it’s new digs!

More details at my personal blog: http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/155

You Can Make The Cut With Shellac!

David — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 15:37:51 GMT

This is a video follow-up from a previous text entry (Episode #71 - Shellac, Can You Make the Cut?) on my blog The Folding Rule. Tag along with me in the shop and you will see that in fact you can “make the cut” and add this fascinating finish to your shop reportaire. This episode covers mixing shellac from dry flakes (1# cut amber shellac) and reducing a premixed cut to a thinner cut (1/2# cut spit coat).

Download a nifty shellac chart for your shop and consider using shellac on your next project.

Be forewarned . . . the only thing more boring than watching someone mix shellac is watching a pot of water boil or perhaps watching your lawn grow!

Coming up in future episodes:
Why you might want to consider getting a hot water pot for your shop and a primer on first-aid for the woodworker.

Got an iPod or iPhone? Well check out The Folding Rule Podcast! I am slowly posting new and previous video content in a format appropriate for the iPod & iPhone.

David

Bookcase with Sliding Doors #11: 3 drawers ready to go

mdoan — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 15:13:18 GMT

Three drawers made. Dovetails cut for the face and back using the porter cable dovetail jig. I hadn’t intended to dovetail the back but it was good practice.

The face is 3/4” black walnut, sides are 1/2” quarter sawn red oak, and the drawer bottom is a the same 3/4” quartersawn red oak that I resawed on the bandsaw and then sanded to 1/4” on the drum sander.

A new experience on this entry was Carter bearing guides for the bandsaw. Resawing was very accurate and smooth enough to make 1/16 veneers finished under the drum sander (for a later project). Resawing stock is much more efficient use of wood than jointing/planing.

How well can you eyeball geometry game

Damian Penney — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 15:05:37 GMT

How good of an eye do you have for geometry (I got an avg of 4.5)

SAWMILL LOCATER: Find a Sawmill Near You

TreeBones — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 02:44:08 GMT

I have been building a database of sawmills and put it together as a Sawmill Locater where you can search by state to find sawmills that provide custom cutting services and sell specialty lumber. Locate a mill near you or many will ship lumber if you find they have access to exotic or hard to find species you might be interested in. Please follow this link to search by state: http://westcoastlands.net/FindASawer.html

Why I like Vintage Tools #3: I don’t know why I do it!

brianinpa — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 02:22:22 GMT

I go to an auction and there are vintage woodworking tools there so I look at them really close. Not to buy them but just to see how they were made. I think to myself that there is no way I am going to buy it because I don’t need it, but when tool comes across the block, my helium hand goes up in the air. My wife is sitting beside me and she elbows me in the ribs and that deflates the helium hand, but the affects are final – the gavel falls, and I am now the owner of a new tool or tools.

I didn’t need these because I already own one of each.

In Part #1 I showed my Craftsman 10” table saw, and 4” jointer, but the 10” table saw can at times be too big if I am working on something small. Again it wasn’t a need, but rather a want. This is an early 1940’s Dunlap 7” tilting top table saw. On this one the table top raises and lowers not the blade arbor. It needed some work, so I spent the weekend cleaning and painting it so it looks new again. Currently working on the way it is mounted to an old rolling stand.

The jointer is a mid 1940’s Powr-Kraft 4 ½” model. For those who aren’t aware, Powr-Kraft is the line that was made for and sold at Montgomery Wards. Not sure what I am doing with this one yet, but I may now have a jointer for just rabbets. I spent all weekend on the table saw so I was only able to disassemble it for cleaning later this week. I noticed real quick, that this jointer is well made. The in-feed and out-feed tables are mounted with only one bolt/nut for each side. The table slide up or down the incline formed in the base of the jointer. The fence seems to be the Achilles on this machine: one bolt for two different plains, so once it is set, that is where it will stay.

As I stated earlier, my helium hand got me in trouble again, but it wasn’t too much trouble: $7.50 for both. Have I stated that I like auctions?