Made By Meg

Best of Handmade Swimsuits

2023-04-11T21:07:00.001-07:00

Bathing suits are one of the few items of handmade clothing that I find are actually cheaper than most store-bought versions. However, despite being two small pieces of cloth, they are trickier to get right than I thought. For the first several years I made suits, most of them were duds. Some didn't feel substantial enough, some too tight, some too loose. But after more than a decade, a have not only improved my technique but also found a few favorite patterns. As the originals had worn out, I thought it was time to reprise my favorites for our recent trip to Hawaii.

Fabric: swimwear fabrics from Blue Moon Fabrics
Cost: $75 for all three suits

Pattern: BurdaStyle Bandeau Top 05/2014

This was one of my first successful swim tops, after about five years of sewing them. While the pattern directions are sparse and typical of Burda, I had less trouble with them time around. As with last time, I added swim cups which give a really nice shape. I believe the original has normal straps, while this has a halter. It's not designed for lots of surf and waves, but feels fairly secure (as worn in the kayak, below).

The bottoms are another TNT pattern - a simple front and back with a high cut. This time I also added a waistband. I also drafted a low-waist one with leftover fabric (not pictured), though those didn't feel very secure so might not work out.

The next one I first made in 2016.

Pattern: Madalynne Sierra Bra (a free pattern!)

This one comes together fairly quickly, with a few modifications including completely lining it. Last time I made it I drafted the halter strap as one piece with the top. This time I did not (in order to make it easier to line), but didn't have the cleanest results. Regardless, this is an easy style for me to wear and gives a good shape.

Same bottoms as before. I had originally tried the Edgewater Ave Oakley Bottoms, but realllly don't like high cut legs on me. As with the other, this also had a low-cut version with the leftover fabric (not pictured) that worked out fairly well.

Finally, I tried one new-to-me pattern that I really liked.

Pattern: Luciolons Cassis swimsuit (maillot de bain Cassis)

Someone on Reddit described this suit as their dream pattern and I have to agree! I love that it is covered up but still shows a bit of skin. It's got something very French about it. I actually worried that the top would provide too little coverage with the low cut and the cut-outs under the boobs. I do not recommend if you are more endowed. That said, I really enjoyed it and it worked out well on me. I takes a little fiddling with the straps when I put it on but then stays in place.

As I looked up bathing suit bottoms online, one thing I had trouble with was getting a good idea of how cheeky the backs were cut. Several patterns out there have multiple options cuts, but often don't identify in the photos which is which. The same goes for people's posts on Instagram. And many don't post pics of the backs at all which is... understandable. So here's my contribution to the internet: this is the cheekier of the two options.

I'm back home from the delightful warm weather now, but it's finally starting to heat up at home. I'm fully restocked ready for summer!

Handmade 1980s Ski Suit!

2023-04-11T19:34:00.003-07:00

I was looking for my next big project and planning my next trip and thought - if I can make a bathing suit, jeans, and a wedding dress, why can’t I make my own snow clothes? This one took a lot of research and was a bit intimidating to start, but ultimately is not much more complicated than making a lined jumpsuit.

Patterns:

Ski Suit: DaisyKingdom mash up of Ladies’ Alpine Suit 75, Ladies’ Zippered Overpant 72, and Men’s Exhibition Suit 98
Mittens: Jalie Mimi Mittens
Fanny Pack: Proper Fit Clothing DIY Fanny Pack
Balaclava: Katrin Schubert Matching Balaclava

Fabric: 2-ply waterproof breathable fabric from Peak Fabrics with a Radiantex insulation and ripstop lining
Cost: ~300 for jump suit, mittens, fanny pack, and balaclava

My tips for making a snow/ski suit: :

Get the right fabric: I bought 2-ply waterproof breathable fabric from #peakfabrics with a radiantex insulation - store owner Agnes was a big help! Also check out Discovery Fabrics and Seattle Fabrics.
Don’t forget notions: I used waterproof seam sealing tape, 10 zippers, a buckle, yarn… Matching notions from Harts Fabric and yarn from Yarn Shop Santa Cruz.
It’s all in the details: Things like zippers at the leg opening, pit zips, pockets, ski pass holder, and a fanny pack for my water bottle made this really functional
Test the fit: I made two muslins and sewed my lining first to triple check the fit and movement
It’s not cheap: All told, I spent just about $300 for a suit, mittens, balaclava, and fanny pack. But that’s less than a @tipsyelves suit + hours of entertainment (aka sewing time) for me
Have fun!

Pattern notes:

Ski Suit: As I drafted/hacked this myself from a combination of patterns and made two muslins, the fit was pretty great. I worried about mobility on the slopes, but really had no issues. I was careful to make it a little looser to account for the insulation, but it really didn't need to be too bulky. My one wish is that I had made the sleeves a bit longer to account for mending the elbow. But it's really not any different than drafting a jumpsuit.
Mittens: Jalie always has well-made patterns with excellent instructions. This one even came with a video! I wish I had given a bit more reinforcement at the thumb joint, but otherwise these came together really nicely.
Fanny pack: Unlike Jalie, with this pattern I took a chance on a new-to-me designer and was a bit disappointed. This pattern came ONLY with video instructions, which I found really obnoxious. I also did not like the technique for the lining. While it is supposedly fully lined, in reality it was actually interlined, meaning in most places the lining was sewn together with the outer fabric and the raw edges were finished with bias tape. I made a few modifications (once I understand the pattern by watching the video 100x) and was able to easily fully line without needing bias finishes. The pattern was only $2.99, so I guess I got what I paid for. On the plus side, it was a nice big size for my water bottle.
Balaclava: It was fun to add in a knitted piece to this outfit. I didn't realize the pattern was brioche when I originally bought it, which is a new technique for me despite knitting for many, many years. And you know what? Now I'm hooked on it! I am currently starting my third brioche project since finishing it. Overall the pattern was solid, though I did make a mistake and used a wool blend that isn't as water-resistant as a 100% wool yarn.

Final notes:

The skiing conditions were perfect. It was relatively warm (40F), and I was able to unzip the pit zips and the front zip and feel great. We took it easy the first two days and I really loved getting back on the slopes after not doing much skiing. Unfortunately, at the end of the third day I fell on some baby moguls in the Ditch of Doom and recently learned that I completely tore my ACL. I guess I sew better than I ski! Luckily I am healing up nicely without surgery and hope to wear this out again next season.

Fairyland Dress

2022-06-30T06:00:00.001-07:00

I love dressing to a theme, and so when our friends invited us (and Beatrix!) to their wedding at Fairyland in our old neighborhood I couldn't resist making an over-the-top dress for the occasion.

Pattern: Simplicity Misses Cocktail Dresses #4070 bodice with a self-drafted double circle skirt

Fabric: 6 yds each of satin twill and organza

Cost: $75

My dress was inspired by this elaborate creation from Krikor Jabotian's 2016 collection. I love the challenge of trying to recreate a couture piece from an image and spent a lot of time on the research for elaborate pleats like this and this. I eventually decided on a double circle skirt (two circle skirts sewn together) with tapering and pleating on the front half. I can't say exactly how it worked out because I adjusted the pleats right up until I sewed the final skirt onto the bodice (and a few times after) until I got something I liked. I did add one extra piece to the front for... modesty.

I love how even in the back, without the pleating, the double circle drapes really nicely

To give the skirt added volume, I created a petticoat with two tiers of ruffles out of red organza to line the fabric. I think I cut and sewed nearly 100 feet of ruffles. As if that wasn't enough, it's hemmed with horsehair braid - a cheap one that caused me a bit of grief. After machine-sewing the horsehair to the hem, I turned it under and hand-sewed it for an invisible finish that took me all of one evening. I also hand-tacked the petticoat to the skirt at regular intervals.

The bodice is my go-to Simplicity #4070 that I've been making dresses with for nearly a decade. I did a heart cut-out for the back which was fun to put together and not all that difficult once you get your head wrapped around it.

I even sewed a little capelet from Vogue #9315, a top pattern that I thought had good potential to be used as outerwear. The wool and lining were leftover from my husband's coat, and very much needed on any California night.

My one word of advice is, if you make a fancy new dress, don't let Beatrix in a tux steal the show. And get your man a matching bow tie, of course.

A Sweater with Reckless Abandon

2022-05-24T18:51:00.001-07:00

So there I was browsing through Instagram one day minding my own business when I saw the most wild, amazing knit I've ever laid eyes on. @verca_knits was making this joyous, rainbow-colored hat that was just too cool for words. The knitting was unlike anything I'd ever seen, with bursts of color against a pillowy-soft white yarn. It was nothing like I typically make, and yet suddenly I HAD to make one for myself. I was in love.

Pattern: DaisyAndPeace Chunky Knitted Sweater No. 15 with this stitch pattern

Yarn: Malabrigo Rasta in Unicorn Bark (4 skeins) and Natural (7 skeins)

Cost: $250

After some internet research, I discovered that the pattern was the Tentacula hat from Jenny Noto. Being extra (and already owning too many knitted hats), I decided I needed this as a SWEATER. After more research, I settled on using Malabrigo's Rasta yarn in Unicorn Bark and Natural (I'll let you guess which color is which). Not only was this a big departure for me style-wise, as I typically don't wear these colors and especially not all at once, but I almost never knit with chunky knits. Undeterred, I soon found myself adding over $200 of bright yarns to my cart. *Gulp*

To adapt Jenny's Tentacula hat pattern, I first found a suitable pattern for a plain chunky knit sweater. You almost don't need a pattern as any two oversized rectangles with sleeves will do, but I still like a bit of guidance. I ended up using this pattern from Etsy. My yarn was a bit bigger than gauge so I ended up kitting the smallest size and reducing the number of stitches to 80%. I know, I know, if I'm going to buy a pattern specifically for a project I should at least get the right one, but I liked its simplicity, the slight puff of the sleeves, and it really was nearly the right size.

Next was to figure out that stitch pattern. Jenny's pattern has a lot of good information, but I found it a bit difficult to follow. Luckily, she links to this great YouTube video from Knit with Me on how to do the stitch pattern. Even if you don't plan to make this I recommend giving it a watch because it really is a very ingenious stitch pattern. It is mostly worked in stockinette stitch, with loops pulled through with your needle or a crochet hook. She calls the stitch "draw a loop," which I'd never heard of before but has some really cool knitting applications, not the least of which is this stitch pattern. If you follow me on Instagram I'll put up some videos of how it looks to knit.

From there the sweater knit up pretty quickly, minus some time to order more yarn (twice). The Malabrigo yarn is really very soft and lovely. The sweater is a bit of a beast, but not as stiff as I worried it would be. I think it will serve me well for outdoor dining or drinks, or perhaps an art walk? Anyway, I hope you enjoy this sweater as much as I do and it inspires you to step out of your comfort zone and try something wild.

Handmade Kayak Paddle Jacket

2022-05-05T06:00:00.001-07:00

Since moving to Santa Cruz, my favorite new toy by far has been the second-hand kayak we scored on Craigslist. It has more than paid for itself this past fall and, after a short break in December and January, I had it back on the water in February with my mom and Beatrix, and my dad alongside us in his rowboat. The otters of Elkhorn Slough have been phenomenal.

Pattern: Jalie Maxime Jacket

Fabric: ripstop nylon and nylon rainwear

Cost: free - remnants

I wanted a new paddle jacket for the cooler months in spring, so I decided to see if I could make my own. After some research, I downloaded the Jalie Maxime Jacket. I liked that it was designed for athletics with things like a zipper shield, chin guard, and elastic cuffs and hems. I also wanted one with a front zip because temperatures can change quickly when you're paddling and I wanted to be able to cool off a little if I needed to.

The jacket is made entirely with fabric from three different water-repellant scraps I had laying around. The sleeves and upper body are made from my most waterproof fabric, a water-repellent "aviator flight outdoor satin" (whatever that is?) that I used in my raincoat. I modified the Jalie pattern so that the jacket yoke and upper sleeve were cut in one piece, similar to McCall 6531. I also eliminated the pleat there. The body is made with light blue ripstop nylon, which isn't totally water-repellant but dries quickly. And there's even some black ripstop nylon filling in over the rest of the jacket. For the sleeve cuffs, I opted to use poly spandex (swimsuit fabric) to make a cuff that fits tightly to my wrist to help keep water out. Since they're stretchy, I can also push up the sleeves when it gets a little warmer. Finally, I used a stretchy cord rather than elastic at the hem of the jacket.

Here we are out on the water and it worked well! It keeps me dry from splashes and also dries quickly in the sun. Not bad for a bunch of scraps from my cupboard! Since this is a water jacket, I sewed small buttonholes at the bottom of each pocket to drain water if needed. But mostly the jacket just gets some ocean spray.

Aren't the otters just amazing?

Spring Dress Mash-Up

2022-03-27T17:37:00.003-07:00

After a few years of t-shirts and sweatpants, it felt good to break out the dress patterns again. It took me about a month to sew this one up, and I enjoyed taking my time to make something nice.

Pattern: McCall's Meadow Dress M8105 with McCall's Dawn Dress M8104

Fabric: 2+ yds rayon

Cost: free

This dress is a mash-up between M8104 and M8105, mostly because I got the two mixed up in my head and thought it was one pattern. Once I dug them out and realized my mistake, I couldn't help but try making my vision a reality. The dress is mostly M8105 with the cut-on sleeves and sleeve ruffles of M8104.

McCall's M8105 is actually a pretty clever pattern. The base is a simple strappy dress, but there's a tie overlay that attaches to the neckline and wraps around the body, giving it a faux-wrap style. It makes it very easy to fit but with a sophisticated draped look.

What was not so easy was adapting it to have cut-on sleeves. That, and making it out of just 2 yards of fabric. I used every scrap of the fabric and puzzled through some fitting issues with the sleeves and the ties. Admittedly, I probably wouldn't recommend this mash-up, as the ties can pull a bit on the sleeves. But it ended up looking pretty good and even gives me enough movement for dancing.

But I can't quite make up my mind about the sleeves. I love the flounce in theory, but on my body it feels like it overwhelms my frame. For our second wedding this month, I took the sleeve flounce off to try it the other way. What do you think? This is the second time I've sewn a project with the sleeves from this pattern and the second time I've taken them off, so there might be a lesson in there.

As a bonus, the Mr. got to finally wear this coat I made for him way back when we thought we were going to a wedding in March 2020.

Jaws Jacket

2022-02-08T20:40:00.005-08:00

Maybe it was the chills that ran through my body as we sat at yet another outdoor hangout, maybe it was just the effects of my COVID booster shot, but I knew I needed another cozy, fuzzy jacket in my closet. I wear my teddy-bear-lined parklet jacket all the time, so there was no denying the utility of a second variation on the concept.

Pattern: Simplicity Misses' Lined Bomber Jacket #8418

Fabric: 2 yds upholstery remnant + minky lining

Cost: $80

The star of this jacket is really the fabric. Aside from being ridiculously soft and fuzzy on the inside AND out, it's a fun texture and nice color with lots of dimension. This is not the sort of fabric you can dream up in your head and go out and find. Rather, I walked into the store with an open mind and, after perusing the fur aisle, I found this beauty in the section of upholstery remnants and knew it was the one. The ribbed texture even makes it look like a quilted jacket

Because it was a 2-yd remnant with a few flaws I wasn't sure I'd have enough for this project, but at about $12 there was no harm in trying. And while the outer layer was cheap, I spent another $30 on minky lining and nearly another $30 (!) on ribbing. But look at that shark lining! Isn't it perfect? I may have a new obsession.

Aside from getting fuzzy fabric everywhere, it actually wasn't that difficult to sew with. I made sure to match the ribs where it mattered but otherwise it came together just fine. I even accidentally placed the flaw (a big hole!) in the middle of one of my sleeves but was able to sew it shut by hand and it completely disappeared. It did help that the whole thing was lined - imagine trying to finish those bulky seams!

The ribbing is fancy Merchant and Mills ribbing that sells for $14 a yard. It is admittedly a bit lightweight for this project (would be better on a t-shirt of light sweatshirt) but it's really hard to get ribbing, especially locally.

The pattern is Simplicity which I bought because it includes instructions for lining. I then of course promptly ignored all the instructions, but it was nice to know that I had all the pattern pieces I needed. I also wanted a raglan sleeve as I already have similar jackets with a set-in sleeve.

Unlike my parklet jacket, this one is a bit more snug and feels a bit bulky in all the layers. But it is delightfully warm and good enough for dinner or a drink out. Now I just might need fuzzy pants and I'd be all set.

I'll leave you this parting shot from the beach :)

Avocados and Houses

2022-01-15T18:09:00.003-08:00

In 2017, an Australian millionaire remarked that many millennials couldn't afford a house because they were spending all their money on avocado toast and expensive lattes. "Shouldn’t they be economizing by eating at home? How often are they eating out? Twenty-two dollars several times a week could go towards a deposit on a house," he opined. These remarks spawned a million memes and, rightfully, some harsh criticism for his words.

In the United States at least, my generation (currently those between 25 and 40 years old) has faced a stagnating minimum wage, the deterioration of workers' rights through a gig economy, the Great Recession, the rising cost of college (and corresponding rising debt), and continued racial and gender barriers in a system that is decimating the middle class. The idea that small-scale, individual decisions could fix these problems, or that a great many millenials could even buy these small luxuries to begin with, was laughable. While I'm all for smart money decisions and saving, if you're scraping by on a minimum wage job (or jobs), hoarding your pennies will not buy you a house where I live.

So of course when I saw this avocado toast fabric at Stonemountain I knew what I had to do. A quick search revealed that they sold a houses print from the same company, and my 'avocados and houses' shirt was born. I'm not sure everyone will get it, but it's funny and just a little bit snide.

Pattern: McCalls Misses' Dresses #7920 as a top with ties

Fabric:1 yd each of Dear Stella in Avocado Toast and Holiday Village
Cost: $30

It took me a while to decide the best way to combine these two fabrics into one shirt, but I eventually settled on a simple button-up shirt. The pattern is McCall's #7920 (originally a dress pattern) that I've made before and like the fit of. I added the ties from McCall's #7976, which on its surface appears to be a very similar top but is much more over-sized.

The darts give it a nice shaping in the back and the front.

The patch I ordered from Etsy full the full millennial effect.

Admittedly it's a very bright shirt in a novelty print. But I finally wore it out today and got compliments at both the yarn shop and fabric store, so I think it will be a fun one to wear. Maybe I'll find a good outdoor brunch spot and can get some avocado toast. ;)

Made It Through 2021!

2022-01-01T18:47:00.005-08:00

This is my tenth sewing year in review. It's become somewhat of a tradition--a little something I do in that lazy time between Christmas and New Year's to reflect on what I've been making. In some years I've run the stats; in others I try to learn something from my mistakes. But as the years go on I'm also just content to make things as my heart desires. Last year I made a lot. This past year I made less. I like to just make things as the mood strikes. If I wear it, that's great. And if I don't, hopefully it at least makes me smile or challenges me in some new way.

One big difference from ten years ago has been the rise of social media, especially Instagram. It seems hardly anyone reads blogs anymore. But I've been doing this so long I'd hate to part with it. So below is a little roundup story I made for Instagram along with some notes about where you can find each project. It's a nice little index of the year. And if you want to watch the video, I'll add it below.

My favorite project of the year was this embroidered jumpsuit. It was a technically interesting project with lots of fitting and time spent learning new embroidery skills. It used fabric from my stash. And it was a celebration of sorts for getting vaccinated and being able to see more friends, mostly outside in the warm, welcomed days of summer. I loved making it and I loved wearing it, and if there's one memory I want to hold on to from this year it's this one.

Many of the other things I made this year were well-worn, made me smile, or both! They include:

Most Worn:

My Parklet Jacket was by far my most-worn item of the year and kept me warm at many an outdoor eatery
The Watermark Sweater rose from the ashes of a previous sweater project, but it was all worth it. I wore this on most cold mornings at my desk
Bathing suit, rashguard, and shorts set for a week-long river trip and kayaking the bay
Elastic-waist pants (no explanation needed for a pandemic year)
Ruby Star Warp and Weft Top - when it's popular on Instagram, it's usually for a reason and I couldn't take this top off for like a month

Other Favorites:

My Perfect T-Shirt pattern, sewed up in two new prints - sharks and stripes
Women Shirt - there's just something about this top that feels right - it's fun, put together, easy, and I wore it to get my vaccine!
Seabright Swimmers were a fun one-piece suit with great sun protection for kayaking
October Days Sweater was a real triumph for me in knitting a beautiful, complicated light-weight sweater that I actually wear
Exaggerated shoulders were a new look this year and made both my favorite and least-worn lists
The Green Blazer was something I didn't wear at all, but I still like it! Maybe there will be more opportunities this year? (probably not)
Railroad Denim - the jury's still out on this particular pair of pants, but I really loved trying out the custom fit of Fayma patterns

There are also a few things that probably won't make the cut:

My Myosotis dress fit better than the last version, but has gotten a lot less wear. Maybe it just feels too prairie?
Lawren Bathing Suit - despite having a lot of fun choosing the fabrics and loving the cut of this suit, it was still a bit short on me and the neckline was too high. I may try this again with a few adjustements
Party Cami was an experiment in converting an old thrifted Halloween Costume into something wearable, but I'm not sure it's made the cut
McCall's #7976 Tie-Front Top - this was an interesting experiment in buying two nearly identical-looking McCall's patterns with very different fits. I like the #7920 better

By far my biggest project this year was moving in June. After feeling a bit priced out of the SF bay area, we took advantage of an opportunity to move a few hours south to Santa Cruz County to a new (old) house and closer to family. The change of scenery has brought me a lot of joy, and I'm also trying my hand at seeing how far some paint and a screwdriver can take me in fixing up our place. It's been fun to balance these new skills with sewing projects.

I hope the new year has something bright in store for you! I don't know where this year will take me, but I'm so ready to be done with 2021!

My Perfect T-Shirt

2021-12-20T17:01:00.002-08:00

Probably more than a decade ago, I bought a cute striped shirt with cut-on sleeves. I wore it all the time (still do) and eventually decided I needed to make myself a pattern. I sewed myself one and wore that one all the time. So I guess it was time to make two more.

Pattern: self drafted t-shirt with cut-on sleeves

Fabric: Modes4U Dear Stella shark knit and Art Gallery coral stripe knit

Cost: sponsored

One of the best parts about making your own t-shirt is picking out a fun fabric. As opposed to a coat or a special occasion dress, I feel like I can be a little bit more playful with a t-shirt. Modes4U, who specializes in cute prints, was nice enough to send me a yard each from two brands I'm obsessed with: a Dear Stella shark knit and an Art Gallery coral stripe knit.

How great is this shark print!?! Fun fact: that ocean behind me is VERY sharky.

This top has some nice features that I think make it a favorite. For one, the cut-on sleeves are easy to wear and make it very fast to sew. I also make it with a hem facing that gives the top a nice weight and prevents any curling hems. The hems of the sleeves and neckline are serged to give them a bit of weight, too, and then just folded under and stitched with a zig-zag stitch.

I've always loved Art Gallery knits because they have a nice weight without being too bulky, and they're buttery soft. The Dear Stella print has a bit less stretch and feels more like a traditional t-shirt weight, which also works well for this top.

If you'd like to make your own, this is probably the most common shirt pattern I've seen on the internet, so choose your favorite pattern brand and see if they make one. And check out the Modes4U knits to get yourself something fun.

Happy holidays everyone!

Ruby Star's Warp and Weft

2021-12-14T18:10:00.004-08:00

I'm currently obsessed with Ruby Star Society's Warp and Weft Fabric. To my count, I've made at least four things with it this year, including this latest project. Designed by Alexia Marcelle Abegg, I love these soft and drapey fabrics, with yarn-dyed flats creating beautiful geometric designs.

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Dresses #7969

Fabric: 2yds Ruby Star Society Warp & Weft Wovens in Parade Lavender

Cost: $30

The pattern for this is McCall's 7969, which has to be one of their most popular of the year. Honestly, I passed it over the first time I saw as a somewhat boring, loose-fitting dress. However, it's Instagram fame was such that you keep seeing more beautiful and beautiful versions until it slowly wears you down and you're hoping over to the site to buy it at full price. Ok I probably bought it on sale.

You'll notice that this is, in fact, a top and not a dress. Something that is much more likely to get worn by me. And while I long ago tried to stop by quilting cottons for garments, I have more recently learned that I do like the occasional button-up and wrap top, so I think this will be ok for me. Lord knows I have worn it a lot already this fall.

Its best feature is definitely those sleeves. The opening is slightly tilted at the cuff and they have beautiful full gathers at both the cuff and the shoulder. The neckline sits nice and wide on the shoulders but somehow stays in place. Of course, I had to reinsert my neckline binding after I stretched in out, but the second (third?) time worked well. As others have done, I sewed a few stitches at the bust to keep the wrap in place. And next time I may cut it a tad longer but even with two yards I barely squeezed this out of my fabric. Those sleeves are a beast.

Anyway, I think it looks nice with my new backdrop. And also for pumpkin carving. And Thanksgiving. I may have worn this to every occasion since I made it in late October.

Railroaded

2021-11-30T11:17:00.003-08:00

I think I've wanted a pair of railroad stripe denim pants for nearly as long as I've been making pants. This past weekend, I finally did the thing. Photographed on a railroad track, naturally.

Pattern: Fayma's Nightly Walk Pants

Fabric: Modes4U Robert Kaufman Blue Stripes Twill

Cost: sponsored

The impetus for these pants came about when an online fabric shop, Modes4U - a company now based in Singapore that sells everything cute and kawaii, reached out to offer some fabric. Even if cutesy prints aren't your thing, I found they had a wide range of fabrics in my style, from Kaufman denim to Art Gallery knits. And, of course, the fabric I have had in and out of my shopping cart for ages - this amazing railroad stripe denim.

I typically sew with stretch denim (10% or more) so was a little wary of using something more rigid. However, this denim is only 6 oz and feels very soft. The pants sewed up beautifully and are really easy to wear. They even have a little spandex in them. I actually ended up walking a few miles to take photos (and go on a dog walk) and they felt great.

To get that comfy faded look, I used the "wrong" side, which has the appearance of a lighter wash. I did an extra wide hem (4") so they would work folded at the cuff as well. And stripes are always fun to play with, so these pants utilize the stripes vertically in the legs, horizontally on the waistband, and diagonally on the back pockets. They have double belt loops in the front and crossed loops in the back.

For these pants, I also had the opportunity to try out Fayma Patterns, who reached out around the same time to offer me one of their custom patterns. This is my first time using Fayma, and what's interesting about this company is that each pattern is uniquely fitted to you. To get your pattern, you submit 35 (!!) measurements and two photographs (front and side) and they generate something just to your measurements.

I was honestly a bit skeptical about how well this would work. If you've followed my blog for a while, you know that I love pants and find them equal parts fun and challenging to fit. The idea that a company could produce something for all my unique fitting challenges was intriguing, but I didn't really think it would work.

However, I was pleasantly surprised by the results. My muslin was really well balanced, with the side seam hanging straight down my leg. There were no odd wrinkles at the front or back crotch, which is a common problem area for me. And they fit my legs well, from the curves of my hips, thighs, and calves. It does help that this is a less-fitted design, but really it hung very nicely.

The one problem area, which you can see on the models on their website, is that the crotch is drafted to be a bit low. This probably makes the pattern fit on a wider range of bodies, but it's lower than it should be. I raised mine at least an inch, but probably need to fiddle with it a bit more. So it doesn't hang as nicely there on me as it should. For my final version, I also ended up reducing the wearing ease and tapering the legs somewhat, but those are more about my personal preference for the pants I wanted to make rather than fit issues. Next time I will probably also lower the rise, as these sit at my actual waist - something few patterns usually do as I'm really long-waisted! I really am quite happy with how these fit right out of the printer and definitely plan to use this pattern again.

All the kids tell me that skinny jeans are out, so I hope this looser style will serve me well. And damn are they comfy.

October Days Sweater

2021-11-22T06:00:00.000-08:00

After knitting for nearly two decades, I think I've finally timed it to actually finish a sweater in the fall. And, more importantly, I'm finally figuring out the types of sweaters I'll actually wear.

Pattern: October Day Sweater by Masha Zyablikova

Yarn: 8 balls of DROPS Kid-Silk from Garnstudio in rust

Cost: $70

Learning to knit, I gravitated toward chunkier yarns that were easier to work with and came together quickly. However, over time I've become more interested in complicated stitch patterns. I liked to think that I was getting better and making nicer sweaters. Still, they weren't always getting worn. Made in worsted wool, cotton, or even acrylic, I realized most of my sweaters were HEAVY. They felt like a lot to wear, were often too warm, and were not always made in the best quality yarn.

Recently, after making a t-shirt from sock yarn, I've decided the key is to knit lighter, smaller gauge sweaters that are more wearable. I've also started investing more in nice yarn for my projects. This project is a combination of both those things and I've actually found myself wearing it quite a bit!

The sweater is a modified version of the October Day Sweater. I made it in the recommended yarn (DROPS Kid-Silk from Garnstudio) which is 75% mohair and 25% silk - fuzzy, soft, and really light! I'll admit that the first time I tried on this sweater I felt a bit like a yetti, but after fixing some fit issues it feels much better.

This is the rust color, which I had a really hard time tracking down but eventually found it on Etsy and got it shipped from Lithuania. This pattern has you knit with two strands together, which knits up quicker than I thought given how small the yarn is, but the end result is still really lightweight.

The October Day pattern is really beautiful. I was inspired to make it by a sweater in the Spring 2019 collection from Delpozo, which has a similar lacey leaf pattern. To adapt this pattern to look more like the inspiration, I gradually faded the leaf pattern into stockinette rather than carry it through the entire sweater. Either way it's a fun piece to knit and the lace is really beautiful.

Other than changing the lace pattern, I tried to follow the instructions closely. Admittedly, they were a bit of a challenge, owing in part to the fact that they're translated from Russian. Some of the things just don't quite make sense or aren't written the way I'm used to. However, I took my time and eventually figured it out. It's a bottom-up pattern with the top knit as a yoke, which allows for a mostly seamless construction.

I'll leave you with this final view at sunset overlooking the cliffs near our house. It's so beautiful I even ventured out in public with my tripod to capture some pictures. Even though it's November it was over 70 degrees out with people playing in the waves down below.

Now to start knitting some Christmas stockings!

Nearly Identical

2021-11-09T06:00:00.002-08:00

Last year as I was shopping for patterns, I couldn't decide between McCall's #7920 and #7976. Sure, the first is a dress and the second a top, but they have a lot of similarities. Both feature a v-neck, button front, and cut-on sleeves. The first appeared a bit more fitted and could be made as a dress, while the second included options for a ruffle and a tie front as well as more traditional shirt styling like a bake yoke and pleat. There was a sale going on, so of course I ended up buying both. I've made #7920 already, so I'm now sharing #7976.

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Tops #7976

Fabric: 2 yds cotton woven

Cost: $20

I'm sure it's easy enough to draft a tie front, but I really wanted a pattern for it, so that was my main reason for getting this pattern. After trying #7920, I was also curious how this one would fit.

Overall, this style is a LOT more oversized. While #7920 has darts and a more fitted shape, this #7976 has a lot of wearing ease and sleeves that fall almost to the elbow. To further give it volume, it has pleats along the shoulder seam. You can make it in a cropped length, but the tie-front view is also quite long.

I ended up shortening both the sleeves and the hem, but otherwise keeping the size as-is. It works fine as a casual shirt, though looking at the picture of my back I do wonder if a more fitted style might work better with the ties. You can see where it's pulled tight across my lower back at the hem by the front ties.

I did have fun making this. A cotton shirt without all the details of a collar and cuffs is quite easy to sew. This one is a fabric hog though, especially if you are pattern matching. I ended up having to piece the ties together, which is fine because you can't tell when they are tied anyway. I also modified the pattern to create a hem facing that finishes off the ties - it seemed much neater that way.

This garish color combo is my school colors, so it worked out nicely for game day, along with a new face mask. The shirt is definitely a keeper, though for my next project I think I'll go back to the more fitted look of #7920, and perhaps will borrow the ties.

Last of Summer with the Lawren

2021-11-03T06:00:00.001-07:00

As our first winter storm rolls through, I'm sharing the last of my summer sewing - another bathing suit!

Pattern: Madalynne's Lawren Bodysuit

Fabric: 1 yd printed spandex + nylon-spandex tricot and nylon-spandex power net

Cost: $25

The star of this garment is this amazing printed spandex I found online. It has a vintage, rockabilly ocean feel to it. Clearly it wanted to be a bathing suit, and I had the perfect trip to Vegas to show it off. Unfortunately, we decided to cancel because of Delta and so it sat in the closet for a bit.

After some re-thinking, I decided to make it up in the Madalynne Lawren Bodysuit. I had ordered a coordinating solid navy and mesh fabric to go with it, and the Lawren offers a lot of opportunities to play with the different fabrics.

The Lawren was originally designed for lace fabric, so I had to make a few modifications. Whereas lace has a beautiful scalloped edge, I had to add a seam allowance to the front edges of my pattern pieces so that I could fold the raw edges under as I sewed. I did leave the mesh leg ruffles unhemmed as they lay flat just fine. Rather than scalloped lingerie elastic, I finished everything with cotton swim elastic and folded it under.

Madalynne has a wonderful eye for beautiful lingerie and the cut of this pattern is very flattering. It conforms nicely to the curve of my back and I really like the sexy cut of the legs and the sheer front panel.

Her execution, on the other hand, can be a bit sloppy. There were a few places where the pattern pieces don't match up well at all: the back crotch is nearly half an inch wider than the front it attaches to, and the crotch lining is the width as well. And the seam lines where the top half meets the bottom at the belly button don't line up, even on her pattern sample photos online. She also doesn't include garment measurements for how tall the piece is. I'm 5'7" with a long torso and should have known better, but I had to re-cut the bottom piece and extend it nearly 2 inches to fit.

Despite these challenges, I had a lot of fun making this using my coordinating fabrics and it was relatively quick to sew, even correcting for some of the pattern errors. I'm hoping it provides a bit of sun protection to my shoulders, and it has already served me well out in the kayak. In fact, it was so warm when I took these photos that I took a quick dip and it works nicely for a swim, too. Here's me having what felt like a "Bond girl" moment.

The Seabright at the Beach

2021-10-18T20:10:00.003-07:00

We're settling into our new home in Santa Cruz, complete with this amazing view down the street! I couldn't think of a better swimsuit for our kayaking and ocean adventures than Friday Pattern Company's Seabright Swimmers. My only regret is not being able to photograph them at Seabright.

Pattern: Friday Pattern Company's Seabright Swimmers

Fabric: 2 yds nylon spandex

Cost: $20

What I love about this bathing suit is the long sleeves for plenty of sun protection. I guess you can't say the same thing about the plunging neckline or bikini-cut bottoms, but that's what makes this suit fun. I've been wanting to make this for over a year to keep my shoulders covered and I'm so glad I finally did.

I was a little worried about the fit of this suit, and there's lots of areas on it that can be tricky to fit. For one, I have a long torso and a one-piece design can be tricky. The plunging neckline can also be problematic, especially if it gapes and you're out moving around. However, I found that neither were a problem on this suit. I measured the pattern pieces carefully and decided the length was just fine. As for the neckline, a strip of elastic and the nice way the fabric hugs the back of my neck seem to keep everything in place, even when out pushing my kayak past the surf.

For the bottoms, I made them extra cheeky. I like the look but might go back and re-cut them as the pattern calls for as they can ride up a bit. Other than that, the only other change I made was to not fully line the suit. I'm out of lining and using self fabric would be too bulky. Plus it's easy to sew up without it.

For those wondering why I'm showing off my bathing suit in October, I will say it's one of the nicest times of year around here. We've had beach days this month that are in the 80s, and it's a great time for the local beach festival, building san castles, and just sitting on the shore. Here's hoping it's not a long winter because I'm clearly loving it here!

Elastic-Waist Pants for Pear-Shapes

2021-09-14T06:00:00.003-07:00

Like everyone else during this pandemic, I've gotten super into elastic waist pants. My favorite style is the one that has a flat front and elastic in the back. That way you can at least pretend they're grown-up pants, there's less bulk, and they're actually a bit more comfortable this way.

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Palisade Pants

Fabric: chambray and cotton

Cost: $20 (jeans), $40 (wide-leg)

The most popular pattern for this style is probably the Closet Core Pietra Pants. I own that pattern and like it. But if you have a high waist to hip ratio/are pear-shaped, the pattern doesn't work as well. You either have to add more gathers in the back or add a closure like a zip.

So I started looking for an alternative and found one in the Papercut Patterns Palisade Pants. It's very similar to the Closet Core Pietra in that it has a front pattern piece, a back, and a side piece where the pocket is folded in. The difference is that the Pietras are elasticized on the back only, while the Palisade Pants are elasticized in the back and side. This means they can stretch wider over my hips but still fit snuggly at the waist. You could modify the Pietras to do this, too, but the Palisades are especially designed for this with their double slanted pocket which ingeniously allows the pants to expand a bit as you put them on.

I fell between size 3 and 4 and ended up cutting out a size 4. I'm glad I sized up because I saw some complaints online that the pattern is graded a bit snug at the hips. I ended up grading the pattern down at the waist but keeping the hip size and it worked well for me. I also cut the elastic much smaller than recommended, but I imagine elastic varies a lot depending on the type you're using.

I made up my first pair in chambray and they were quickly my favorite pair of pants. They are easy to wear and pair with everything. I added back pockets for even more pockets and an elasticized cuff for funsies. I will note that I cut the front pockets a bit differently than recommended to make them single layer - less fabric and less bulk.

The one disadvantage of the Palisade Pants compared to the Pietra Pants for me is that they only have one cut, whereas the Pietras offer both a wide-leg and a narrow option. I widened my pattern pieces myself based on other wide-leg pants I liked and made myself a second version. I also cut a single pocket rather than double front pockets to switch it up. The fabric is a really beautiful yarn-dyed cotton that feels really summery.

So I can basically throw out all my skinny jeans now as this is all I wear. If you've been eyeing this style and are pear-shaped, I recommend checking out the Palisade Pants.

Beach Life

2021-09-09T06:00:00.005-07:00

Shortly after Memorial Day, we left our beloved apartment in Oakland for a new adventure (and a new house!) in Santa Cruz. After the terrible year that was 2020, I have really enjoyed being closer to family, daily beach walks, and having more space (and house projects!). Being near the water has also meant more outdoor adventures. After rafting the Rogue River in Oregon this summer we bought an ocean kayak that we can walk to the beach from our house!

Bikini top: Greenstyle Creations Power Sports Bra in nylon spandex
Bikini bottom: Stitch Upon a Time Bunzies in nylon spandex

Rashguard: Greenstyle Creations Waimea Rash Guard in nylon spandex

Shorts: Closet Core Patterns Pietra Pants in ripstop nylon

Cost: $30

There is something really powerful about making your own performance wear. I wore these pieces for an entire week river rafting. We were out in the wilderness so they really needed to hold up without the ability to switch them out or make repairs. They held up beautifully, kept me comfortable, and protected my skin from sun and water. I felt like superwoman!

Probably the most interesting part of this outfit to make were the board shorts. I wanted something that would be quick-drying and protect my legs from sun and the rubber of the boat. I decided to use the Closet Core Patterns Pietra pants/shorts. They have a gathered/elastic back and flat front, so they gave me all the ease of a pull-on short but look pretty good for rafting! The fabric is rip-stop nylon from Harts Fabric and I think the quality is better and it dries faster than another one I ordered online.

Rather than gather the back waistband and run elastic through it to create the elasticized waist, I didn't cut ou the waistband fabric and just used the elastic. This gave me less bunchy fabric to deal with, as the elastic sits flat (photos of the back farther below). The front waistband is "lined" in elastic - I essentially ran the elastic through the front without stretching for added stability as I didn't want to risk trying to do iron-on interfacing on this plastic-y fabric. Of course, this is all a deviation from the instructions but worked out well after some fiddling.

I also added a zipper to one of the pockets (pictured above), leaving the other one open. I can store things in there like chapstick or a key - they get wet but won't float away. After testing these out I kind of wish that I'd given both sides a zipper as the non-zippered one tends to balloon full of water more easily. But it doesn't bother me enough to fix it.

The other crucial element to this outfit is the rash guard for sun protection. I'm not sure the fabric is UV-rated or anything, but it helps a whole lot just to have my arms and torso covered. This was my first time sewing the Waimea rash from Greenstyle Creations and it fits well and is easy to put together.

Underneath it all is a Greenstyle Creations Power Sports bra and Stitch Upon a Time Bunzies - two underwear patterns made as a swimsuit. The Power Sports bra gave excellent support and comfort wearing it all day. The criss-cross straps in the back are super cute and also prevent them from slipping off my shoulders.

The Bunzies are a nice underwear pattern to have in your stash - they have a few options ranging from cheeky to full coverage. I used the pattern variation without elastic - you simply add hembands to the leg openings and waist. I was worried it might make them a bit loose but it worked out well and meant I didn't have elastic cutting into me all day. The one modification I made was to lengthen them so they sit at my natural waist.

This has been the perfect summer "capsule" bathing suit wardrobe that is super comfy and functional. Here's to the beach life!

A Jumpsuit for Stepping Out

2021-05-23T20:08:00.003-07:00

This jumpsuit is made for showing off. Its sewn from bright red linen, has hand-embroidered flowers, and shows just a flash of skin. It is also very much a product of the pandemic, made from fabric I ordered online and couldn't think of any other use for and hand-stitched embellishments that took me over a month to create. Today, two weeks after my final vaccine, I'm ready to celebrate! (Safely, of course.)

Pattern: adapted from McCalls 7789 and McCall's 7719

Fabric: 2 yds Robert Kaufman Essex Linen

Cost: $40

For this piece, I think I spent about as much on embroidery thread as the fabric itself. Kaufman linen is fairly cheap (which is how it ended up in my cart) and I got two yards for less than $20 online. However, when it arrived it was much brighter than I had pictured, and I just wasn't sure what I would use it for. As my stash dwindled during the long months of lockdown, I finally decided it needed to be sewn up.

The fabric told me it wanted to be bright red overalls like the Closet Core Jenny Overalls. But while I liked that pattern, I also wanted something that could be worn without a shirt underneath - maybe something more like a pinafore. I eventually ended up mashing together the pants from McCalls 7789, which I've sewn twice during lockdown already, with a bodice from McCall's 7719 squared off at the neckline. It required a fair amount of adjusting as I sewed and I think the bust darts ended up a bit high, but luckily the embroidery hides that and I really like the final results. I really like the overall shape and that it provides enough coverage while still giving the pinafore/overall look.

So back to the embroidery. To temper all that red, I thought it would be fun to add some flowers to the bodice. I was also running out of knitting projects and needed something to do while I watched TV, so this was the perfect activity to occupy my time. As I've only done a few embroidery projects every, I used this as an opportunity to try out a bunch of different techniques and had a lot of fun browsing the internet for different petal and leaf designs.

The one thing I have a hard time with in embroidery is picking out the color palette. So I looked around for a curated palette of colors. Sublime Stitching sells some amazing ones but they were almost all out of stock at the time. I finally found this fall palette I liked on Etsy. I really wish more sellers did this because it makes everything feel much more cohesive. I did run out of a few of the colors but was able to just order more of the single color online now that I knew what to get. The colors are give it a really vintage feel that I like.

The jumpsuit has a low back and I really wanted the straps to cross in the back. However, the length of the straps coupled with the size of my hips meant I could barely wiggle out of it. I left the project alone for the night and came back the next day to uncross and re-sew the straps. As it's already a bit of a delicate garment, I really didn't want to strain it every time I needed to get in and out of it! I had to use the bathroom several times the first day I wore it and I was glad for the change.

It also has pockets, so despite its delicate touches it is really almost a practical garment.

While the fabric purchase felt like a bit of a mistake and the process for making this was very experimental, I am so happy with the final result! The color, shape, and embroidery all come together to make a happy garment ready to step out in.

My Parklet Jacket

2021-05-16T19:31:00.006-07:00

If you live in the Northern Hemisphere, you may be wondering why I'm posting a heavy jacket in the middle of May. But it was 55 degrees and windy last night in San Francisco as I did some outdoor dining and I can assure you that this jacket will get a LOT of wear. In fact, I've been wearing this every weekend since I finished it earlier this month to outdoor meetups with friends.

While I am hopeful that COVID is winding down for now in the Bay Area (and I am now fully vaccinated!), we have been doing most of our socializing outdoors. It's been wonderful to connect with friends, some of whom I haven't seen in many months. And amid all of this I realized that the cute tops and dresses I've made over the past twelve months were not going to cut it for a chilly night in a bar parklet on Telegraph. So my parklet jacket was born.

Pattern: McCalls Misses' Unlined Jacket #6531
Fabric: 4yds Robert Kauffman Big Sur Canvas in Canyon Brown
2 yds Minky Luxe Cuddle in Heather Henna
Cost: $125

I went all out with this jacket. Stonemountain was having a sale on their Robert Kauffman Big Sur Canvas so I ordered a few yards of that along with matching thread, snaps, zipper, cording, and cord stops. The matching thread felt like a real treat as I almost always just sew with black/white/gray. I'm glad I did it though as I did lots of topstitching and the matching color gave a really professional finish. And the option to have them match it for you when you order online takes all the guesswork out of it. I only wish I'd realized that they send 200m spools - I needed to go out and pick up some more.

For extra warmth and luxury, I decided to line the whole thing in sumptuously soft minky fabric. I've always wanted to use something like this for an extra cozy jacket and I'm glad I did. It feels like wearing a teddy bear.

For the pattern, I dug in my stash and came up with McCall's #6531, a loose-fitting, unlined jacket that has a sporty/parka look with rolled sleeves and the option to cinch the neckline, waist, and hem. It wasn't until I was ready to cut it out though that I realized I had a larger size range than I needed. I think I must have gotten this pattern at a swap and either didn't notice or didn't care. Luckily, the pattern pieces were pretty basic and I was able to grade down one size. Because it's a loose-fitting style, I wasn't particularly worried about getting the fit just right.

One reason I chose this pattern is that it has cut-on, loose-fitting sleeves. They are kind of a batwing or dolman style. Because I was using a bulky lining, I knew this style would be better for accommodating all that fabric than a traditional, close-fitting set-in sleeve. The pattern does not include pieces or instructions for adding a lining, but I found it was easy enough to do by cutting out the regular pattern pieces except for the collar and cuffs, and shortening the hems.

Before I make up a new pattern these days, I like to read Pattern Review to see what others recommend. Many said they ended up sizing down, but I was glad that I cut the size (or close to it) for my measurements. This gave me enough room to add the bulky lining fabric and not worry about whether I'd still be able to get it on. Funny enough, many people also said the sleeves were too short and they had to lengthen by two inches or more (!). I'm not sure if it was because I was grading down from a larger size range or if I just have short arms, but the sleeves were plenty long enough for me!

One fun thing about this jacket is that it is designed so that you can roll the sleeves up. I knew that mine wouldn't roll quite so nicely in thicker canvas, but I still like the option for the hours before the sun goes down. I cut a facing from the canvas so that the minky lining wouldn't show through (and it meant less bulk). My one gripe is that the cuff closure for this jacket is just made by overlapping the cuff pieces. I think this could have been done more elegantly, but oh well. I also wish they included more snaps in the notions list for the cuffs (they recommend buttons instead) and for the pockets. I luckily had a few extra snaps in my stash for the cuffs so was able to add them here.

Now I have the perfect casual jacket for the lake or a parklet bar. The only problem is the Mr. has one in a lighter shade of canvas and is a little annoyed that I had to have one for myself ;)

Shoulder pads??

2021-04-19T06:00:00.001-07:00

I am not quite old enough to have worn shoulder pads the last time around. To me, they remind me of my mom's old 80s blouses or the polyester shirts we'd turn our noses up at in thrift stores. Shoulder pads were the first thing I'd rip out of vintage finds, and it actually took me years to learn to put them IN blazers to give shape to a garment.

So imagine my surprise to see them popping up in garments and sewing patterns all over. And I'm even more surprised to say I gave them a TRY. I can't say they worked out in every instance, but it's fun to experiment with something out of my comfort zone.

Pattern: Grasser Knit Jumper 810
Fabric: 2 yds knit
Cost: $12

First up is the Grasser jumper. This is a new-to-me pattern company from Russia and what drew me to it was a wide selection of really interesting patterns. This jumper in particular had such a different construction and shape that I was really excited to give it a try.

The instructions are complete and include some pictures, but the translation is a bit off and the sleeve construction involved some trial and error on my part. But in the end, it all came together mostly as designed. The shoulders are supported with "roll fabric;" I used some light quilt batting to give it the extra shape.

I did make some updates to the pattern before cutting it out. One, it's cut from a stable jersey rather than a thicker sweater material, so my version has less structure than the pattern. Because of this, the sleeves collapse a little rather than holding their shape, but I don't mind. And while I kept the sleeves the same, I updated the main body by eliminating the princess seams and changing the neckline to a regular crew neck. I got this idea from a few people on Instagram who had done the same and I find it works well on this less-structured version. Sometimes putting too many seams in jersey is just asking for wonky seams.

It is admittedly not the easiest shirt to wear. It doesn't fit easily under sweaters, and is a bit of a new shape for me. But I actually like it more than I thought I would and have been wearing it a good bit.

Next up is the MadeIt Patterns Eight Tee. This is part of their No Frills line, which is the same style and fit as their regular patterns but without detailed, step-by-step instructions. I found the information to be more than adequate, with full sizing information, technical drawings, fabric recommendations, and one page of instructions with a few illustrations for the more involved steps.

Pattern: MadeIt Patterns Eight Tee
Fabric: 1 yd jersey
Cost: free - remnant

This top and the Just Patterns Claudia Tee have been really popular on Instagram this past month. I chose the MadeIt version because I liked the shoulder/sleeve construction - it folds under to create the shoulder line in a really unique way. The top can be made with or without shoulder pads and, despite the name of this post, I chose to make it without. Even without the pads, it gives an exaggerated shoulder line for the same look.

While the original shirt has a very boxy construction, I wanted something with a more exaggerated shape - wide shoulders and a nipped-in waist. To do this, I cut the shirt off at the waistline and added a narrower band. I then pleated the top into the band at the side seams. I also experimented with adding a waist tie. Mijke from SewItCurly did a similar alteration, but by sewing the shoulder "pleats" together rather than adding a hemband.

I'm not yet sure how I feel about this top. It's definitely interesting, but I'm not sure I like the silhouette on me. Perhaps the original silhouette would have been better, but with my small shoulders I do feel like I'm swimming in it a bit.

Either way both of these tops were really fun to experiment with and I'm glad I tried a new trend. I've also been playing with wide-leg pants, another trend I've seen popping up, but I'm NOT ready for the return of low-rise jeans.

Adjusting the Deer and Doe Myosotis

2021-04-07T06:00:00.003-07:00

I think I'm just going to sew green things from now on. I have at least two more green projects in the wings. But next up to share with you is another version of the Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress.

Pattern: Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress

Fabric: 2 yds linen
Cost: fabric was a gift from mom :)

When this pattern first came out I remember someone saying that it looked like an oversized toddler dress. While it is quite loosely cut, I think it's this easy-wearing shape that has made it a popular pattern for sewers. Personally, this is my second version and I find it to be a nice, casual, comfortable dress.

I sewed this up in a beautiful linen that my mom sent me. The fabric, as with other linen I've sewn this year, is loosely woven and has a bit of give to it. It's perfect for this pattern because it doesn't need to fit tightly and precisely to the body, so a bit of stretching or fabric distortion wasn't much of a problem.

The main change I made from my previous version was to lengthen the pattern at center front. It seems like everywhere I look these days patterns are riding up in the front. I don't know if it's intentional or not, but to me it just looks like the pattern didn't account for the bust shape and has a distorted waistline. Even the sample photos for this pattern ride up, giving not just the waistline but the skirt a high-low hemline. It's clear in the photos but not in the line drawing, so I assume this is a fit issue and not a design mistake. It looks ill-fitting unless you're actually trying to do a mullet hem!

If you're looking to make a similar adjustment, I started by slashing the front bodice at the lengthen/shorten line and pivoting it to add the required amount (about an inch and a half for me!). It's important to pivot so that you don't lengthen the side seam, just the center front. From there, I redrew the grainline and center front parallel to the hem. I also redrew the legs of the dart to connect the point and ends of the dart indicated on the pattern, as the legs get a little distorted. Finally, I added another button and redrew them so they were evenly spaced.

I don't have a great photo of how this pattern originally fit me (probably because I like to hide my flaws). But below on the left you can see to some extent how the bodice and skirt on my first version ride up in the front. The right is my adjusted pattern with a more even waistline and hem. Success!

You'll also notice that I lengthened the skirt on my second version to a length that was more comfortable for me. I actually lengthened it a bit too much (five inches) and ended up making the ruffle a bit shorter. I wish I'd keep the original proportions but I'm pretending it's fine.

Also, look how much my hair has grown over the last year of quarantine! I am also experimenting with cutting more layers and letting it air dry wavy. Now I'm just hoping the weather warms up again so I can wear my dress out.

Green Blazer for the Good Times

2021-03-28T15:23:00.003-07:00

Remember a few years ago when everyone was building their wardrobe and trying to make clothes for the way they live? More cake less frosting. Becoming a wardrobe architect. All that jazz. Well, one year into the pandemic and I have no interest in sewing for the way I'm living. I have been feeling so unkempt in my sweatpants, no-makeup, and ponytail. So I'm dressing for the life I want. And somehow that life involves bright lips, clean hair, and a forest green blazer with rolled cuffs.

Pattern: McCall's Palmer Pletsch Misses' Jacket #6172

Fabric: 2 yds Robert Kaufman Ventana Twill in Dark Green

Cost: $30

Do I need a blazer right now? Absolutely not. But when you're bored at home it is the perfect challenging project. Also, if things ever do open back up, this will be nice for dressing up a bit or even more casual work meetings. I just love a good green!

I wanted to make a blazer because I love being able to roll my sleeves up. But if you've ever tried this on a normal jacket you'll find that it is quite difficult if the sleeves are too small at the wrists. To adjust this pattern, I found the widest part of each sleeve piece and widened all the tapered lines to match that width. So the sleeve is no longer tapered and rolls up really nicely. It makes the sleeves look pretty big and I thought I might have to take them in some, but this is really how much fabric you need if you want to be able to roll them up.

I used my old standby pattern for this blazer, McCall's Palmer Pletsch Misses' Jacket #6172. I believe I bought this in 2010 and have been making great-fitting blazers with it ever since. Surprisingly, it is still for sale on the McCall's website. My friend Beth the jacket queen even named this as one of her favorite blazer patterns, so you know it's worth it. And if you're looking to brush up on your jacket-making skills, she offers classes at Hello Stitch studio.

One other change I made to this pattern was to change the welt pocket to a sort of patch pocket that sits neatly between the side seam and the front princess seam. The truth is, I'm really not that good with welt pockets and wanted to try something a bit different. I also think it helps make the blazer a bit more casual.

I also haven't added a button yet. Maybe I'll leave it this way?

Some people choose unlined jackets because they think the construction will be cheaper than making a lining. But I find that you spend so much time on nice seam finishes (which will show when you take the jacket off) that it is almost certainly quicker to line it. So of course, to take up as much time as possible, I did a mostly unlined version with bound seams. Not only did this give me more project to work on, but it also meant I could work with the materials I had on hand and not have to buy more lining. I lined the sleeves in a leftover lighter weight twill that turned out to be almost an exact match. The other seams are bound in a combination of black and black and white bias tapes that I had on hand. It was the perfect way to use up leftover materials.

Here's another shot of the inside. You can see all the bound seams in more detail, as well as the sleeve lining. All the facings were hand sewn to the garment, and the sleeve was hand sewn at the armhole.

I hope I find a time to wear this soon. In the meantime, I'll be dreaming about the life I want.

Slowly Sewing

2021-03-17T06:00:00.001-07:00

To be perfectly honest, for the first time in the 10+ years I've been sewing, I haven't wanted to sew. A year into the pandemic, I blame quarantine. Never before have I had so much unlimited time to sew. It was fun for the first few weeks. It kept me entertained for many months. And now... I've sewn it all. Couple that with nowhere fun to wear your creations and it's just... not that interesting. I'm slowly picking up projects again but also giving myself the space to nap, take dog walks, make waffles, whatever mood strikes.

BUT I still have a few things photographed that I want to share with you, so you'll see that dribbling out until I get my "sewjo" back.

Pattern: Victoria Jones's Waimea Ranch Shirt

Fabric: remnant chambray

Cost: gift

First up, my favorite button-up shirt pattern, the Waimea Ranch Shirt. I've written about it before, but it's the perfectly relaxed fit shirt with just the right amount of shaping. Just check out the back, which has those nice little fish-eye darts that nip in the extra fabric right where it's needed.

And those pleated sleeves.

I got a little obsessed with the demin details on this one. I used red thread to do double lines of topstitching throughout (which I now realize is why I'm out of red thread). I also did flat-felled seams and have to admit that this was probably the first time I've EVER used flat-felled seams on a garment. I normally default to French seams as I find flat-felled seams to be much too finicky. They were a bit finicky but mostly worked out well.

I did make one alteration to the pattern, which was to convert the pointed front and back of the yoke (more of a Western style) to straight seams. That makes this pattern much more versatile for me.

I used leftover denim shirting from another project, turning it inside out to get a bit more of a worn/bleached look.

The shirt has snap closures on the front and cuffs. But I messed up an got the from Amazon and they're already popping off all over. So I'll probably have to replace them at some point which is such a pain.

I do love a good denim shirt though and hope I get some wear out of this when the weather warms up.

A Tale of Two Sweaters

2021-02-18T06:00:00.003-08:00

Can I tell you something? I made this sweater twice. Well, not this exact sweater. But I used this yarn and knitted up a perfectly fine sweater and then completely frogged it, all seven skeins of yarn, rewound them, and knit up another complete sweater.

I bought this yarn on the last day before lockdown orders came out in March last year, knowing that I'd need a Project to work on. I finished the first sweater in October, then fully eight months into the pandemic. And in that time, the pandemic really made me take stock of what matters: relationships, self care, patience and joy. And, among other things, I have realized that life is too short for sweaters that you won't wear. I loved the bobbles and details, the months I spent working out the stitch pattern. But the whole thing just felt too heavy, too awkward. I'd pull at the neckline every time I wore it. So I took it apart.

And you know what? I love my new sweater. It is the exact same yarn (plus a few more skeins) but the fit is so much better, it keeps me perfectly warm in my wintery apartment, and is easy to pull on and off and to wear. It's the little things like this that are getting me through the year.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Wool in black

Patterns: Version 1 based on Caron Great Curves Knit Poncho

Version 2 is Brooklyn Tweed Watermark

Cost: $140

Let's start with the first one. I love intricate stitch patterns and have spent a lot of time pouring over my copy of the Japanese Stitch Bible. For this project I was especially intrigued with the delicate lacy patterns that hid within them increase rows, allowing a pattern to expand as you work it. I spent months translating this technique to a shawl sweater pattern with raglan sleeves, using the knit stitches to create the narrow neckline and then growing wider as I worked down. I figured the whole design out in Excel, using the rows and columns to record each stitch. It was incredibly challenging and interesting work, and really held my attention.

However, as is often the case when I try to create my own knit patterns, the end result is often not as wearable as I'd like. I find it much more challenging to work out necklines and sleeveheads in knitting than in sewing patterns. Living in a warmer California climate, I also struggle to match my knitting projects to what will actually get worn.

While I wore this sweater poncho a few times, it never felt quite right. The whole garment felt heavy and cumbersome to put on over my head. It was also a bit unbalanced and would pull toward the back, chocking me a bit at the collar. While I loved the artistry and the process of creating this garment, the end result was lacking. So I snapped a few pictures to document my work and began the tedious process of taking it all back apart.

Unfortunately, most of my knitting projects end this way. I've even knit a sweater twice where I didn't like the first or second version. However, I was determined this time to get it right and started researching knit patterns, which I vowed to follow to the letter. Up until this point, the only sweater I have ever really loved is the one I knit for my husband, the Brooklyn Tweed Hugo Sweater. So I decided my best bet was to try another pattern from them.

I eventually landed on the Watermark pattern. The instructions matched my yarn gauge and, with its open, pull-on style, it seemed like an easy pattern to wear. While I struggled a bit at first with the instructions, I found it to be a really quality pattern with well-thought out details. And you know what? I love it! It works well with my yarn, the fit is good and not too snug, and I have been wearing it nearly every day since I finished it.

While I tried to stick faithfully to the pattern to achieve the best possible result, I did make a few adjustments. First, I found that my yarn gauge knit up slightly larger than what the pattern called for (even on smaller needles), so I knit the smallest size, realizing it would come out a bit bigger. However, when it came to the armholes, I made them two sizes larger and knit the sleeves two sizes larger to match. This worked really well for me, creating a cozy sweater but with enough room in the arms to wear with long-sleeve tops. I do believe they sized up the sweater for the models so it was hard to determine how snuggly the pattern was supposed to fit, but this solution suited me.

The other thing I did was shorten the pattern. Again it was actually kind of hard to tell where the hem fell on the models from the pictures, but after looking at several Ravelry projects I decided to shorten mine by about 2-3 inches. I did this by starting the waist decrease early. Of course now I can't remember exactly how many inches I took off (was it 2? was it 4?) but it hits me now right at the hip.

The stitch pattern on this sweater, while not quite as cool as the Japanese Stitch Bible, also added some visual interest and was fun to knit. It is seen better on the back of the sweater.

The only challenge I had, and you can see it in the photo above. Was with the yarn dye lot. When I was making this sweater I realized I would need a few more balls of yarn and, now that in-person shopping at limited capacity is back open, went in after the holidays to pick up some more. I carefully checked the dye lot but realized only much later that I had only checked the dye lot of the first skein I picked up, not all of them. I do a lot of knitting at night and really only realized the color variation after I had already knit up the back portion of the sweater. Luckily, black is easy enough to fix and, if it really bothers me, I'll dunk the whole thing in some dye to try to even out the color.

I suppose the last thing I'll note is just a word about the yarn and pattern companies I used. I was quite proud of myself for shopping local for this yarn, especially as I know retail stores have been struggling. But my friend let me know later that the particular brand of yarn I selected, Cascade Yarns, have been vocal Trump supporters and harassing others on social media. It's been a bit hard to untangle whether it was the present or former owners and exactly what beliefs they do or don't hold, but I was very disappointed to hear this. Especially with recent conversations on the topic, it strikes me that it is best to support companies that are working to make this space as inclusive as possible rather than going about business as usual or actively supporting a racist leader. Similarly, Brooklyn Tweed has recently been accused of copying and profiting off of the yarn of a local Oakland seller, A Verb for Keeping Warm. While mistakes will be made and it is not possible to have a "perfect" source for all your projects, I am reconsidering both these companies for projects in the future in favor of more inclusive companies based on what I learned while making this sweater.

In practicing a craft I find there is always more to learn. From what projects suit me to where to source my supplies, I welcome the challenge of constantly learning and improving.