tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76167946918721107772022-12-01T18:56:52.468-06:00MagicPecanSlinky
New posts some other Tuesday.MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-4319726843732071612020-10-13T20:31:00.000-05:002020-10-13T20:31:00.589-05:00Unnecessarily Complicated Hay Feeder for Rabbits<p>I like building things. This is what happens when someone who likes building things makes a hay feeder for his pet rabbits. It's not the easiest option, or the cheapest, but it works great and has lasted for years. And, most importantly, it was fun to build. </p><p>Materials: </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>cinder block</li><li>self-adhesive felt pads</li><li>29 quart clear plastic bin, with latching lid (16.7 in wide, 12 in deep, 13 in high) (or similar)</li><li>lumber scraps, big enough to fill the holes in the cinder blocks</li><li>wood screws, shorter than the thickness of your lumber scraps</li><li>2-part expanding foam</li><li>1/8" thick hardboard sheet</li><ul><li>cardboard may be a good substitute</li></ul><li>filler material of some sort </li><ul><li>expanding foam</li><li>cardboard</li><li>wood</li><li>something else? </li></ul><li>zip ties</li><li>panel from snap-together wire shelving, commonly used for making rabbit enclosures</li><ul><li>Example: <a href="https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/relaxed-living-12-inch-wire-cube-grid-in-grey/5313247?skuId=67335244&poc=821077">https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/relaxed-living-12-inch-wire-cube-grid-in-grey/5313247?skuId=67335244&poc=821077</a></li></ul><li>Rubbermaid Commercial 7-1/8 gallon gray undivided bus/utility box (FG335100GRAY)</li></ul><div>Tools: </div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>saw for cutting wood - just about anything would work in a pinch, I used a table saw. </li><li>hot knife / soldering iron for cutting plastic</li><li>drill/driver for drilling holes and driving screws</li></ul><div><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>Here is the finished example. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7_aaj8pXjME/X4ZErsCsIXI/AAAAAAAAFuA/-fJPRO43WlkSVLqHeXz_x2t7AxRbbaifwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201013_184421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1915" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7_aaj8pXjME/X4ZErsCsIXI/AAAAAAAAFuA/-fJPRO43WlkSVLqHeXz_x2t7AxRbbaifwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201013_184421.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Start with a cinder block. Put self-adhesive felt pads on the bottom to prevent damage to your floor. The felt wouldn't be necessary if your floors are carpet. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GgEcX6IxzTg/X4ZEuTTH0eI/AAAAAAAAFuQ/6J2Z5nsLIKYJhlMhldViATWBr71Mr4a6gCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201013_184910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1174" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GgEcX6IxzTg/X4ZEuTTH0eI/AAAAAAAAFuQ/6J2Z5nsLIKYJhlMhldViATWBr71Mr4a6gCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201013_184910.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Cut a hole in the front of the bin. The plastic can be brittle. The best way I found (after destroying my first attempt) was to use an old soldering iron as a hot knife to melt/cut through the plastic. Do this somewhere well ventilated, it doesn't smell great. Also, be warned - hot things are hot and can burn you. </div><div><br /></div><div>Leave enough area around the opening to fasten the wire panel using zip ties. I left it so there was about 1 full square of material left on each side and on the top. The bottom was cut much closer to keep from blocking access to the hay. The soldering iron worked well for poking holes through the plastic for the zip ties. Trying to use a drill near the edge caused the plastic to crack; I don't recommend it. </div><div><br /></div><div>With the opening in place, attach the wire panel using zip ties. Below you can see how much plastic I left on the top, bottom, and sides. It also shows where I used the zip ties. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kt9FgRVqunw/X4ZMq2xu72I/AAAAAAAAFu0/Slk_oubGv4ohnI7o7Io0HsJar4iEuFdPQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201013_184756_HDR_zoom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1104" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kt9FgRVqunw/X4ZMq2xu72I/AAAAAAAAFu0/Slk_oubGv4ohnI7o7Io0HsJar4iEuFdPQCNcBGAsYHQ/w344-h640/20201013_184756_HDR_zoom.jpg" width="344" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Cut the wood scraps so that they fit well into the holes of the cinder block. They don't have to complete fill the holes, but they have to be in contact with each side of the holes. My scraps were oddly shaped off-cuts from a 2" x 6" pine board. They look odd, but they work just fine. </div><div><br /></div><div>Once you get them fitting well, the next step is to figure out where they need to be attached to the bottom of the plastic bin. The easiest way is to set the bin on top of the cinder block with the bus tub in place. The bottom edge of the wire panel overlaps inside of the litter box; this sets the position front-to back. Center it side-to-side, and then mark where the edges of the cinder block holes are. Drill holes and use wood screws to attach the wood so it sits within the marks you made. The screws are installed from inside the bin. They screw down into the wood, holding it in place. I think I used three or four screws on each one to hold it securely. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-92IE8zLeDeU/X4ZEscALhAI/AAAAAAAAFuE/6x9aYyZe2Ss7MlSDVR0WkudduVAi1p4YwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201013_184500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-92IE8zLeDeU/X4ZEscALhAI/AAAAAAAAFuE/6x9aYyZe2Ss7MlSDVR0WkudduVAi1p4YwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201013_184500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Here you can see the way the wire overlaps the litter box. This hold the litter box in place, and it ensures that any hay that is dropped falls into the litter box. <div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uw9n-eNjfng/X4ZEsoOxzNI/AAAAAAAAFuI/1dLLNZQiObUDJnyVFAJ0sDTPNhjVk08xQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201013_184544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uw9n-eNjfng/X4ZEsoOxzNI/AAAAAAAAFuI/1dLLNZQiObUDJnyVFAJ0sDTPNhjVk08xQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201013_184544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Fill the back 2/3 of the bin, to force hay toward the front of the feeder. The next step is probably the most difficult, because of the materials used. I had some leftover 2-part expanding foam. The downside to what I used is that the foam is expensive, difficult to find locally, and the uncured components aren't the most friendly of chemicals. I put in a divider to contain the foam. The foam exerts a surprising amount of force, so I used 1/8" thick hardboard or Masonite that I had scraps of as a divider. I packed the other side with layers of cardboard and wood scraps to keep the hardboard from bowing out too badly. I drove a few screws through the sides and bottom that extended into the area the foam would be poured. This was done to anchor the foam in place once it cured. Then I poured the foam and let it expand to fill the space.</div><div><br /></div><div>The easiest alternative I can think of would be to cut layers of cardboard and stack them vertically against the back wall until it is 2/3 full. Then a couple holes could be drilled through the stack and bolted against the back side of the bin.</div><div> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U49ZhnJQYVY/X4ZEuszMQmI/AAAAAAAAFuU/TTKytfQiixw2VFvN3j_BYJX7xEOTS3m2gCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201013_184629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U49ZhnJQYVY/X4ZEuszMQmI/AAAAAAAAFuU/TTKytfQiixw2VFvN3j_BYJX7xEOTS3m2gCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201013_184629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Here is one optional improvement. I had some leftover casting resin, which was expired and had started turning yellow, making it useless for its original purpose. I used the resin (and some gravel as a filler) to create a steep angled bottom on of one of the feeders. This pushes the hay toward the outside edge, and works very well. (In the picture below, disregard the larger holes I opened up in the wire panel. This was my first attempt, and I was thinking the holes were too small. They are not; there is no need to make them larger. This just ends up with more hay in the bottom of the litter box.)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ywS9lB1027Q/X4ZEtjSuFjI/AAAAAAAAFuM/fBmzrue6z_ktCulsmD1EgPJMa5m73rQ2ACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201013_184618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ywS9lB1027Q/X4ZEtjSuFjI/AAAAAAAAFuM/fBmzrue6z_ktCulsmD1EgPJMa5m73rQ2ACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201013_184618.jpg" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>If you have questions or comments, post them below. As a reminder, comments are moderated to eliminate spammers. Your comment won't show up immediately, but I will review/approve them and respond. </div>MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-34923972894798156312020-08-11T08:00:00.001-05:002020-08-11T12:52:05.122-05:00A Beautiful Old ChairDuring the pandemic, I fixed a chair! Well, part of a chair. <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>The problem: </b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>It was broken. (All good repair stories start here...) The wooden legs dovetail into a cast iron center piece. The corners of the wooden dovetails had split along the grain, causing the legs to fall out, and the area where the casters attach to the wooden legs was worn badly. </div><div><br /></div><div>I didn't take a good picture before I started, because I wasn't planning to write this. But, by popular demand, I'm blogging again. You will just have to pay attention to the in-progress pictures to see what is being fixed and why. (Or, skip to the end and take a peek if you are OK with spoilers.)</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>The solution: </b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>Steel. I like steel (and metalworking/machining in general.) It seems like the right amount of overkill for this. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BcuN57mp7bc/XyiQOnt7csI/AAAAAAAAFqI/7_dWKGbJjvsrgNTSPOsJYEmgjbrBIF8ZwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200426_200609.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BcuN57mp7bc/XyiQOnt7csI/AAAAAAAAFqI/7_dWKGbJjvsrgNTSPOsJYEmgjbrBIF8ZwCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20200426_200609.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>First, some context. Then we will go back to the beginning. Here you can see the four wooden legs, and the center piece that they dovetail into. My repair was making the metal banding that follows the curves of the legs and dovetails into the center piece. </div><div><br /></div><div>Step one. Buy materials. In this case, my local hardware store had 3/16" thick steel flat bar in exactly the width I needed to match the wooden legs. Two 3 ft. pieces set me back $13. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EcuXItBnRRw/XyiQOtFpSUI/AAAAAAAAFqE/OJIe6_1Jh_kUyoyzoJ-CPc7kacVTR9kzwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200522_184925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EcuXItBnRRw/XyiQOtFpSUI/AAAAAAAAFqE/OJIe6_1Jh_kUyoyzoJ-CPc7kacVTR9kzwCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20200522_184925.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Step two. Play with fire. I'd recently gotten an oxy-propane torch to play with brazing. Turns out it can also be used for bending. I heated the end and used my bench vise and a hammer to create a decent 90 degree bend. The short portion at the end will lock into the widest part of the metal dovetail socket. The long end will be bent to match the curve of the chair legs. <div><br /></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QJBpHJLBp0o/XyiQOvVopkI/AAAAAAAAFqM/Lq745R3EmXgquTbQQwVn1tfgnsdQBgrHACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200522_185519.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QJBpHJLBp0o/XyiQOvVopkI/AAAAAAAAFqM/Lq745R3EmXgquTbQQwVn1tfgnsdQBgrHACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20200522_185519.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step three. Bend the steel. It took a while fiddling with things to match the curves closely enough to make me happy. All bending was done by hand, with the help of some parallel-jaw pliers and a sturdy bench vise. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vtqP2mYH9pY/XyiQPa-YbII/AAAAAAAAFqQ/pMlXCDt4VfYW5AaS70bjy1I9fZt-KbzwwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200522_192949.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vtqP2mYH9pY/XyiQPa-YbII/AAAAAAAAFqQ/pMlXCDt4VfYW5AaS70bjy1I9fZt-KbzwwCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20200522_192949.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Step four. File to fit the dovetail socket. I found <a href="https://www.penntoolco.com/grobet-usa-american-pattern-flat-file-bastard-cut-14-length-pack-of-6-32-293/">a place to buy a decent large file for a reasonable price</a>. The downside is that they are sold in a package of six. That's not all bad news, in that the extras will be given to friends. I could have used an angle grinder, but that is noisy, and it is way too easy to take off too much material. Using a good file, this went surprisingly quickly, was rather cathartic, and I got a very good fit. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2sCwpGy3xeA/XyiUDc5SkuI/AAAAAAAAFq0/1Z2qUyFvIVcW2v8irsHClIp4dvvx_T-hACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200531_112258.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2sCwpGy3xeA/XyiUDc5SkuI/AAAAAAAAFq0/1Z2qUyFvIVcW2v8irsHClIp4dvvx_T-hACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200531_112258.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Step five. Drill and countersink holes. My plan is for these to be screwed to the bottom of the legs. For that to happen, they need screw holes. This would have been easier to do before bending. Thinking ahead is not one of my strongest skills. And, I only screwed up the alternating pattern on one of the legs. Oops. I couldn't have done this without a drill press and a decent vice. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LhLQHqdoqis/XyiUC9Qor9I/AAAAAAAAFqs/mmr3-grahgMiQn73FZeoaRBYHB_0oJFOgCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200531_112336.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LhLQHqdoqis/XyiUC9Qor9I/AAAAAAAAFqs/mmr3-grahgMiQn73FZeoaRBYHB_0oJFOgCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200531_112336.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eXKb7QEpKZA/XyiUAsWnQNI/AAAAAAAAFqk/vBQ_PAoRpyong8B568DfDEubnXdGOHa1wCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200531_112344.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1419" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eXKb7QEpKZA/XyiUAsWnQNI/AAAAAAAAFqk/vBQ_PAoRpyong8B568DfDEubnXdGOHa1wCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200531_112344.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Step six. Weld the caster posts in place. The posts for the casters were mounted on plates that were a bit too wide for the legs. My answer was remove the posts and weld them to the steel. I was really happy with how this turned out. Well, at least until I turned it over. I wasn't thrilled with the tiny gap between the wide part of the post and the steel. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3hJE9zd504c/XyiUBrW93gI/AAAAAAAAFqo/xS5JCTvjkcU9-HEBGGEPZEF5OG_UZZWjACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200531_112415.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1670" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3hJE9zd504c/XyiUBrW93gI/AAAAAAAAFqo/xS5JCTvjkcU9-HEBGGEPZEF5OG_UZZWjACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200531_112415.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Step seven. Silver brazing to the rescue! Fill the insignificant gap by brazing. (I mean, I have the torch. I'd be a crime not to use it... This step was totally necessary. I don't know what you are talking about.)</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yxUmhhmiTzs/XyiUDTTvOcI/AAAAAAAAFqw/TPtlEOYSbO4jv-Z0lr4zSYRGlirO_axcACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200531_112804_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1954" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yxUmhhmiTzs/XyiUDTTvOcI/AAAAAAAAFqw/TPtlEOYSbO4jv-Z0lr4zSYRGlirO_axcACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200531_112804_HDR.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xSvsAV_R9ns/XyiUDt0VbrI/AAAAAAAAFq4/964mCCazbgUVBn-3T9ekQRX_ur1BSV42ACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200531_113226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1730" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xSvsAV_R9ns/XyiUDt0VbrI/AAAAAAAAFq4/964mCCazbgUVBn-3T9ekQRX_ur1BSV42ACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200531_113226.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Bonus: these pictures of the brazing process are beautiful! </div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ON7uFuSKXTU/XyiUFnmWIeI/AAAAAAAAFrI/7ezCdMLNrJ8IfHCkKYRhk4BrkVP3oV_qQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200603_195038_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ON7uFuSKXTU/XyiUFnmWIeI/AAAAAAAAFrI/7ezCdMLNrJ8IfHCkKYRhk4BrkVP3oV_qQCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200603_195038_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Step eight. Prime and paint. The color is Rust-oleum Universal Oil Rubbed Bronze. It's a good color. Goes with everything, or so I've heard. This used up the last dregs of a can I had sitting around.</div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kgIBRyi6__8/XyiUFqWWeCI/AAAAAAAAFrE/PLjhebrOk3cCLMk0AZD-Q9FwlHkL-eSFACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200606_100949.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kgIBRyi6__8/XyiUFqWWeCI/AAAAAAAAFrE/PLjhebrOk3cCLMk0AZD-Q9FwlHkL-eSFACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200606_100949.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AuxYkc1pZG4/XyiUEkUnBoI/AAAAAAAAFq8/XutvybLrTJMpSAVnQGFUvIErU4bbPR-_wCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200606_101417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1830" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AuxYkc1pZG4/XyiUEkUnBoI/AAAAAAAAFq8/XutvybLrTJMpSAVnQGFUvIErU4bbPR-_wCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200606_101417.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Step nine. Fill in the worn hole left by the old-style casters. The wood was cracking here on all the legs, so I figured it could do with some reinforcement. I drilled it to fit a standard sized wooden dowel and glued in pieces. Cost of dowel was about $3.</div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aWjs9yPHecA/XyiUFVP9NCI/AAAAAAAAFrA/99LzL3R6V_gLYdv1Pkm52iIYDCwxkCbFgCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200609_200227.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1603" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aWjs9yPHecA/XyiUFVP9NCI/AAAAAAAAFrA/99LzL3R6V_gLYdv1Pkm52iIYDCwxkCbFgCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200609_200227.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Step ten. Drive some long screws into the end of the dovetail on the legs. The heads of these fit into the gap between the wood and metal pieces at the dovetail. Later pictures will make this clearer. This gap will be filled with epoxy, and the screw heads will anchor it into the epoxy.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qQ3xy8ErB-o/XyiUHj6ldMI/AAAAAAAAFrU/5V3AcdrcfBY0MvcdUrLWUWl0olNAt9zjQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200609_202035_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qQ3xy8ErB-o/XyiUHj6ldMI/AAAAAAAAFrU/5V3AcdrcfBY0MvcdUrLWUWl0olNAt9zjQCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200609_202035_HDR.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Step eleven. Seal the perimeter of the dovetail connection between the wood and metal. This will prevent the epoxy from leaking out wherever there is a gap. I had this old sealant sitting around. It still worked, and the dark gray matched the color scheme. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0eofWe8dJGY/XyiUHXEFFAI/AAAAAAAAFrM/CmHKUd8W1OI_5maJcoudAOWl-K58OmzBACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200609_200909_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0eofWe8dJGY/XyiUHXEFFAI/AAAAAAAAFrM/CmHKUd8W1OI_5maJcoudAOWl-K58OmzBACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200609_200909_HDR.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16kTv-VAZ3c/XyiUHlvFUPI/AAAAAAAAFrQ/sZJsDoo8sZAqbvbVWOGxkBc-wQi6VoUygCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200609_201823.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16kTv-VAZ3c/XyiUHlvFUPI/AAAAAAAAFrQ/sZJsDoo8sZAqbvbVWOGxkBc-wQi6VoUygCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200609_201823.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Step twelve. With the sealant cured, fill the gap with epoxy. The top view here shows the gap I'm referring to. I used some steel BBs as filler to make the epoxy last longer. I had these left over from when Dad and I replaced a handle on a sledgehammer in high school. I also got to use up all the leftover epoxies I had sitting around getting old. You will notice that I didn't fill it all the way to the top. I had to leave room for the end of the metal pieces to fit down in there. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zzqoaXRvKig/XyiUJe1Ci_I/AAAAAAAAFrY/Ln-BFaAGct02xI7gL9vLVjJm1hq5YpF4QCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200620_112705.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zzqoaXRvKig/XyiUJe1Ci_I/AAAAAAAAFrY/Ln-BFaAGct02xI7gL9vLVjJm1hq5YpF4QCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200620_112705.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Steps thirteen (epoxy) and fourteen (screws). (I clearly didn't take enough pictures.) Fill the remainder of the gap with just epoxy and push the metal pieces down into it. I also coated the entire area between the wood and metal with epoxy, for it to bed into and fill any small gaps. Next screw the metal pieces into the wood. I spent about $10 on different length wood screws to account for the tapering thickness of the legs. You can also see in this picture that I had to shim the space between the center support and the legs since there were some gaps. </div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KTTzuYRIOcY/XyiUJ4356tI/AAAAAAAAFrc/e1_viQqWF7IGLmOyyH59CEn9mm2avDC0wCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200620_114113_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KTTzuYRIOcY/XyiUJ4356tI/AAAAAAAAFrc/e1_viQqWF7IGLmOyyH59CEn9mm2avDC0wCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200620_114113_HDR.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-STUQb4t1qkg/XyiUKMOlIgI/AAAAAAAAFrg/bwEnJLae_l0M-OVRC7VxqzT4rBtTAUJSACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200620_114119_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-STUQb4t1qkg/XyiUKMOlIgI/AAAAAAAAFrg/bwEnJLae_l0M-OVRC7VxqzT4rBtTAUJSACNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200620_114119_HDR.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Step fifteen. Install the center support piece. Use the threaded holes I forgot to mention making back in step five. Curse when two of the holes don't quite line up. Modify the center piece to make it work. No one will ever know. </div><div><br />Step sixteen. (Not pictured.) Reinstall and shim the casters to sit flat. Did I mention that I didn't take enough pictures? </div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ko-DeYjtqHc/XyiUKIbNJSI/AAAAAAAAFrk/jRlNPYwPw5sWqHm9-xGTGoVxKE24uMk_wCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200620_153940.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1962" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ko-DeYjtqHc/XyiUKIbNJSI/AAAAAAAAFrk/jRlNPYwPw5sWqHm9-xGTGoVxKE24uMk_wCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200620_153940.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Complete! And, beautiful. Hopefully it is strong enough. Now it goes back to my friend to be reunited with the rest of the chair. This was a joy to work on. </div><div><br /></div><div>Total cost: about $26. Not bad. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com1CORP CHRISTI, TX 78410, USA27.8222933 -97.5788975-0.48794053617884714 -132.73514749999998 56.132527136178844 -62.4226475tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-25909645352513205462020-08-04T08:00:00.001-05:002020-08-04T08:00:07.290-05:00E-ink Weather DisplayIt's been seven years since my last post. I'm a bit surprised that everything is still here. Anyway...<br />
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I turned an old Nook e-reader into a weather display.<br />
<br />I am still thrilled with my purchase of a Nook. It has lasted over seven years as an e-reader and works just as well as when it was new. I've replaced the battery once, which was pretty straightforward.<br />
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However, Barnes and Noble have since released a Nook with a backlight. The screen without a backlight is amazing in bright light, but being able to easily read in low light conditions was a very tempting feature. Having a newly redundant Nook with a beautiful e-ink display was one reason for starting this project.<br />
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The other reason is that we recently purchased a personal weather station. The optional display they offer for it is kinda awful. We can do better, and nearly for free!<br />
<br /><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bMWpyxNVjvU/XydCz5itYyI/AAAAAAAAFps/zvmEtK38wh0qmsWZqADd_UmWx7d4PApwwCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200802_174155.jpg" /><br /><div><br /></div><div>By popular request, here are details on how I did it:<br />
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<b>Step 1. Root your Nook. </b><br />
This allows you to install Android apps on your Nook.<br />
I made <a href="https://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2013/10/rooting-nook.html" target="_blank">a post about this back in 2013.</a> I don't have much to add.<br />
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<b>Step 2. Install the Electric Sign app. </b><br />
Electric Sign is an app by Jeremy Friesner that lets you easily use your Android-based device as a self-updating display. It loads a website at the interval you specify.<br />
<a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sugoi.electricsign">https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sugoi.electricsign</a><br />
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He has also made the source code available on GitHub.<br />
<a href="https://github.com/jfriesne/Electric-Sign">https://github.com/jfriesne/Electric-Sign</a></div><div><br /></div><div>The app lets you specify how often it reloads the website. I have it set for every 5 minutes. </div><div><br /></div><div>
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<b>Step 3. Build a website. </b><br />
This was one of the more challenging parts for me.<br />
Luckily, I found some amazing examples to go by.<br />
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This is the one whose code I used as the basis for mine: <a href="https://www.galacticstudios.org/kindle-weather-display/">galacticstudios.org/kindle-weather-display/</a></div><div>
They provide a download of their code under the "Setting Up the Server" section. It uses PHP to pull data from a weather service API and turn it into an 600x800 pixel PNG image. They used an old Kindle, so there are a bunch of details if you are using that platform. </div><div><br /></div><div>Other great examples include: </div><div><a href="http://mpetroff.net/2012/09/kindle-weather-display/">mpetroff.net/2012/09/kindle-weather-display/</a></div><div><a href="https://www.shatteredhaven.com/2012/11/1347365-kindle-weather-display.html">shatteredhaven.com/2012/11/1347365-kindle-weather-display.html</a> (This one uses NOAA data.)</div><div>
<br />The Weather Underground API is only accessible if you have a personal weather station. If you have one, link it to update data to Weather Underground. <a href="https://www.wunderground.com/pws/overview">wunderground.com/pws/overview</a> Then, you can create an API key, and the documentation on the API can be found <a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/1eKCnKXI9xnoMGRRzOL1xPCBihNV2rOet08qpE_gArAY/edit" target="_blank">here</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div>In the past, I'd played a bit with the Nest API to pull data into a google spreadsheet. This works in a similar way.</div><div><br /></div><div>Ok. Now to learn enough PHP to cobble something together that does what I want. Luckily the internet is an unending font of knowledge. Unfortunately, the resulting code looks exactly like you would expect from an amateur building his first program while teaching himself the language. I'm sorry. </div><div><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KY3btNgNUdqQtHa2Ob_dGgkUaJ8CrT6x/view?usp=sharing">Download source code</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>I needed a way to be able to run PHP scripts on my computer to test things as I go. XAMPP does exactly this. It can be found here: <a href="https://www.apachefriends.org/index.html">apachefriends.org/index.html</a> </div><div><br />After much trial and error, I got something I am happy with. </div><div><br /></div><div>
As a side note, the Nook I have is an older device. It has issues with modern https websites. It means you likely won't be able to pull up just any weather website. This isn't an issue for me since I wanted to create my own custom display, but it is something to be aware of.<br />
<br /><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Step 4. Host your website. </b><br />
I didn't feel like paying someone to host it for me, and there was no need for it to be available outside of my home network. So, I started thinking of other options.<br />
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I have a desktop computer that is on most of the time. But, "most of the time" is not "all of the time." I'd prefer something that was more available.<br />
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I considered building a stand alone web server. That felt like massive overkill, and during the pandemic I had limited accessibility to free old computers to re-purpose.<br />
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My router lets me attach an external drive for storage, but there is no ability to host a website.<br />
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I found an example using a Raspberry Pi. That could work, but I was trying to minimize the cost. I was hesitant to purchase something if there was another way.<br />
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I have a Western Digital networked hard drive. Its operating system is a bare-bones distribution of Linux. I wondered if that could be used... Turns out that it can, and someone has already done it: <a href="https://community.wd.com/t/app-webhosting-for-firmware-v4-10-2015/94892">community.wd.com/t/app-webhosting-for-firmware-v4-10-2015/94892</a> They even made an installer available.<br />
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The downside is that the free authentication system for downloading it is broken, and the hosted ads are some of the sketchiest I've seen in a while. But, I had an old prepaid debit card with a few bucks left on it, so I gave the donation option a try. Others had commented that it still worked even though the free method was broken. The extensive contributions of the developer on the WD community forums are what convinced me to try sending a donation.<br />
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With $10 sent to a stranger on the internet, I had my own tiny little web server up and running without having to add another device to my network.<br />
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I don't think I recommend this option. It only made sense for me since I already had that exact model of WDMyCloud. Barring that I would have likely gone with re-purposing an obsolete computer as a web server. <br />
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If you are going with the WDMyCloud option, here are some details for setting things up.<br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Give your WDMyCloud a static IP address in its network settings. </li><li>Turn on SSH access in the WD settings so you can remotely access the command line, and be sure to change the default password when you do. In windows command prompt, then type "ssh root@[IP ADDRESS]" to connect.</li><li>The default directory where websites are hosted is: /var/www/html/</li><li>The server error log is: /var/log/nginx/error.log</li><li>You can set this up as a network share for easily transferring files by adding an entry in /etc/samba/overall_share and then restarting samba.</li><li>There is a setting that caught me - the WDMyCloud is set up for a production environment. So once a PHP script runs, it is stored in memory until the device is restarted. This is to maximize speed. It doesn't have to keep accessing the hard drive, but it has no way of knowing if a file changed. I am using it more as a development platform. I am making constant changes and tweaks. Change this setting so it verifies the most recent version is in memory. We aren't expecting thousands of hits. A little disk access won't be a big deal. In the file /etc/php5/cli/conf.d/05-opcache.ini change opcache.validate_timestamps=true. </li></ul></div><div>
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<b>Potential improvements. </b><br />
Electric Sign never does a full screen refresh to clear up artifacts that occur over time on the e-ink display.<br />
<br />
The easy way around this is to enable the setting where Electric Sign writes the image to a screensaver. When the Nook goes to sleep, it refreshes the screen when the screensaver starts.<br />
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The downside is that I lose about 40 pixels at the bottom of the screen. This is where the nook puts the wake up prompt for exiting the screensaver.<br />
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I'd like to modify the Electric Sign app to add a screen refresh and reclaim those 40 pixels. With the source code available, there is a chance.<br />
<br />
Applied Science on YouTube did a fascinating experiment playing with E-paper display update rate. I can't see how to apply anything he did to an old e-reader, but it is still a fascinating watch. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsbiO8EAsGw&feature=youtu.be">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsbiO8EAsGw&feature=youtu.be</a><br />
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<br /><br />For now, the display lives behind our kitchen sink. It sits on a stand made from the pulley from a broken alternator and a bit of hex bar brazed together. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KzFmqfp1bLo/XydHODedfXI/AAAAAAAAFp4/uIipjCGY2fk-uS8dbERHMrJkaGg_POwrQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200802_174415_HDR_cropped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1818" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KzFmqfp1bLo/XydHODedfXI/AAAAAAAAFp4/uIipjCGY2fk-uS8dbERHMrJkaGg_POwrQCNcBGAsYHQ/s640/20200802_174415_HDR_cropped.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div>MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0CORP CHRISTI, TX 78410, USA27.8222933 -97.5788975-0.48794053617884714 -132.73514749999998 56.132527136178844 -62.4226475tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-46148226331129969442013-12-03T00:00:00.000-06:002013-12-03T00:00:10.989-06:00Sheet Protector Dividers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Recently, while putting together a binder of recipes, a disappointing thing was discovered. We were using sheet protectors to keep the recipes safe from cooking spills and splatters. The disappointing thing is that it is not possible to use normal dividers with sheet protectors. The picture below should make the problem obvious. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x6iR0g16CVE/Uo1U2lRX4EI/AAAAAAAAEjo/vMsRqTi2f68/s1600/20130728_185836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x6iR0g16CVE/Uo1U2lRX4EI/AAAAAAAAEjo/vMsRqTi2f68/s640/20130728_185836.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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The divider tabs don't stick out past the edge of the sheet protectors. This makes it impossible to see the section labels, which defeats the purpose of dividers. </div>
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Luckily, there is a rather easy, if not immediately obvious, solution. Put the dividers inside a sheet protector. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gEqhLs4Qix4/Uo1U5041jGI/AAAAAAAAEkI/d8N0bDkdECU/s1600/20130728_185958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gEqhLs4Qix4/Uo1U5041jGI/AAAAAAAAEkI/d8N0bDkdECU/s400/20130728_185958.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This requires cutting a slit through the edge of the sheet protector for the divider tab to stick through. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ocd7wN-bK1A/Uo1U2weFwoI/AAAAAAAAEjs/e21Va4Rj7O4/s1600/20130728_190016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ocd7wN-bK1A/Uo1U2weFwoI/AAAAAAAAEjs/e21Va4Rj7O4/s400/20130728_190016.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is much more effective. You can see the tabs! </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-krCMkK-4ZqI/Uo1U62OPPAI/AAAAAAAAEkY/CzpZNEPgF50/s1600/20130728_190151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-krCMkK-4ZqI/Uo1U62OPPAI/AAAAAAAAEkY/CzpZNEPgF50/s400/20130728_190151.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The only tricky part is for the first one in the set of dividers. If you cut the slit at the top of the sheet protector, right at the page opening, the corners will be loose and floppy. To avoid this, flip the sheet protector upside-down. The tab sticking through will keep the divider from falling out the bottom, and there will be no loose plastic corners to get crumpled.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ji41Ob-YZyI/Uo1U4zjCYkI/AAAAAAAAEj8/x73Khkp0LXU/s1600/20130728_190503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ji41Ob-YZyI/Uo1U4zjCYkI/AAAAAAAAEj8/x73Khkp0LXU/s400/20130728_190503.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is the finished result: protected pages with section dividers. Who says you can't have your cake and eat it too?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Le0_kI0lBVA/Uo1U5k0N6CI/AAAAAAAAEkM/-GG1vod5ogo/s1600/20130728_190613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Le0_kI0lBVA/Uo1U5k0N6CI/AAAAAAAAEkM/-GG1vod5ogo/s320/20130728_190613.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-37672465465212432662013-11-19T00:00:00.000-06:002013-11-20T18:57:44.683-06:00Painting EdgesI recently found myself painting a couple rooms. The hardest part for me (and apparently for others also) is painting the edge between the walls and the ceiling.<br />
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In the past, I had tried taping the edge. This didn't work out so well. The walls and ceiling are textured, so paint just seeped under the edge of the tape. I had to redo the entire edge. Taping that way was worthless.<br />
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Doing it completely by hand, as recommended by some, took me even longer.<br />
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So, I turned to the internet for advice. This article was particularly useful. <a href="http://lifehacker.com/5975243/whats-the-best-way-to-paint-edges" target="_blank">http://lifehacker.com/5975243/whats-the-best-way-to-paint-edges</a><br />
I decided to try the trick described by commenter "esac," about halfway down the page.<br />
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To summarize:<br />
Step 1: Paint the ceiling. Pay no attention to the edge. (Very easy.)<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AytADH9qDHQ/Uov9x5xq_OI/AAAAAAAAEjE/Rfq4qs5tNR8/s1600/image_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="321" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AytADH9qDHQ/Uov9x5xq_OI/AAAAAAAAEjE/Rfq4qs5tNR8/s400/image_2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 2: Tape the ceiling. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8vopEXmxm0k/Uov9x0gMqrI/AAAAAAAAEjI/WCiueqqQIGw/s1600/image_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8vopEXmxm0k/Uov9x0gMqrI/AAAAAAAAEjI/WCiueqqQIGw/s400/image_1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 3: Paint the wall-side edge of the tape with the ceiling paint. This way, any paint that seeps under the tape is the correct color for the ceiling. This seals the edge of the tape from any more paint flowing underneath. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RcAZKlEBJ3I/Uov9xycsBbI/AAAAAAAAEjM/NesBqizY3Hw/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="297" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RcAZKlEBJ3I/Uov9xycsBbI/AAAAAAAAEjM/NesBqizY3Hw/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 4: Paint the edge of the wall with the wall color. (Still easy.)</div>
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Step 5: Remove the tape. </div>
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I forgot to take after pictures, so I will describe the result with words. </div>
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It was not perfect: </div>
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<li>There were a handful of places where the tape caused the wall paint to peel off. These areas had to be touched up with wall paint. It seemed to work better if the tape was removed immediately after painting, before the wall paint had any chance to dry. </li>
<li>There were a couple places where the wall paint still made its way underneath the tape. But it was minimal. These areas had to be touched up with ceiling paint.</li>
<li>There were a few places where the tape pulled the texture off of the ceiling. These areas had to be touched up with ceiling paint. </li>
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Overall, the process worked pretty well. The next attempt will be to use better tape to avoid pulling off the texture, and to remove the tape immediately after painting each section. </div>
MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-42664435169200102782013-10-29T00:00:00.000-05:002013-10-29T00:00:03.007-05:00Rooting a NookI am the happy owner of a Nook Simple Touch. I love how compact and portable it is. The battery lasts for weeks, and reading on the E-Ink screen is a joy. It is a wonderful product.<br />
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This post is about a way to make it just a bit better. The Nook operating system is Android 2.1, but it is completely locked down into the pre-installed apps. By rooting the device, you can open it up for customization.<br />
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There are several benefits to rooting the Nook:<br />
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<li>You can install other apps using <a href="http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2086582" target="_blank">NTGAppsAttack</a>. Lifehacker.com has <a href="http://lifehacker.com/5926798/turn-your-rooted-nook-into-the-ultimate-ereader-with-these-10-apps" target="_blank">a post which lists several useful apps.</a> </li>
<li>You can install a reader app that lets you view many different eBook formats. </li>
<li>You can rotate the screen orientation. </li>
<li>You can reassign what the different buttons do. </li>
<li>You can make many other tweaks to customize the interface. </li>
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The instructions I followed are posted <a href="http://www.babblingengineer.com/how-to/how-i-turned-my-nook-into-an-e-reader-monster/" target="_blank">on the Babbling Engineer blog</a>. </div>
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The method uses <a href="http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2040351" target="_blank">NookManager</a>, a tool which makes it very easy. </div>
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Following their instructions worked perfectly. I have very little to add about the process. I am very happy with my rooted Nook, and would recommend others to try it!</div>
MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-16632859618625971212013-10-15T00:00:00.000-05:002013-10-15T00:00:10.633-05:00Plant Velcro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I want to spread the word about a wonderful product. It was discovered while wandering through the local Lowe's or Home Depot. I don't remember which, but they both carry it. </div>
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It is Velcro! For plants!!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uBX88YzL81E/Ulch5f8n6fI/AAAAAAAAEiI/zllaALbyS8U/s1600/velcro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uBX88YzL81E/Ulch5f8n6fI/AAAAAAAAEiI/zllaALbyS8U/s400/velcro.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Velcro brand Plant Ties, to be precise. </div>
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If you have ever tried to tie plants to a trellis or cage, you know that there are many inexpensive and semi-frustrating options. These include wire, twine, and the like. </div>
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The Velcro version offers three key benefits: </div>
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<li>It is flat and wide like a piece of tape. This makes it much gentler on the plants and less likely to cut into the stems than wire or twine. </li>
<li>It is fast. Very fast. There are no knots to tie, or wire to twist. Just cut and wrap. </li>
<li>It is reusable. It can be easily removed without cutting. </li>
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To gain these benefits, there is a minor downside. It does cost a bit more than the alternatives at just under $4.00 for a 45 foot roll. </div>
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A word of caution: beware buying this online. Some places are charging close to $20 for the same thing. </div>
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Here you can see it in use. In the first picture, is it supporting a tomato plant. The second shows it supporting a branch on a plumeria. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UKMGIQmlWgY/Ulch5z_PQUI/AAAAAAAAEiM/DldSQSHOqKY/s1600/20130702_194345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UKMGIQmlWgY/Ulch5z_PQUI/AAAAAAAAEiM/DldSQSHOqKY/s400/20130702_194345.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CZulzKHcUQA/Ulch6Aux17I/AAAAAAAAEiU/FZiwZq0cToE/s1600/20130702_201727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CZulzKHcUQA/Ulch6Aux17I/AAAAAAAAEiU/FZiwZq0cToE/s400/20130702_201727.jpg" width="225" /></a><br />
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MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-68894811247171307212013-07-23T00:00:00.000-05:002013-07-23T06:52:22.536-05:00Pulse MeasurementTechnology is fun.<br />
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It turns out that you can measure a person's heart rate visually. Or at least sensitive electronic sensors can. Each time a heart beats, blood pressure increases and then decreases. This causes an increase and decrease in the amount of blood in the capillaries near the skin's surface. This results in a corresponding change in the amount of light that passes through the skin.<br />
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All it takes to measure these changes are a light source, and an optical sensor.<br />
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Smartphones have all the necessary requirements. The flash is a bright light. The camera is designed to capture millions of pixels of light. All that's missing is some software to put the two to a different use.<br />
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There is an app for that. Several actually. Many of them free.<br />
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The one I ran across is <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=si.modula.android.instantheartrate&hl=en" target="_blank">Instant Heart Rate by Azumo, Inc.</a><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZLIMtCEiOaQ/Ue3kWkK8h_I/AAAAAAAAEhI/xmNfn_SVa1Y/s1600/screen+shot.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZLIMtCEiOaQ/Ue3kWkK8h_I/AAAAAAAAEhI/xmNfn_SVa1Y/s1600/screen+shot.webp" /></a></div>
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You simply place a finger over the camera. The flash shines onto your finger. Some amount of light passes through your skin, like when you hold a bright flashlight up to your fingers. The camera measures the changes in light and interprets it as a pulse. </div>
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The information is graphed in real-time on the screen, and your pulse rate is calculated. </div>
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Small movements can distort the reading, so it's important to hold still. Pressing hard prevents blood from flowing into your finger, so it's important just to hold your finger lightly against the camera. Other than that, it gives surprisingly accurate results. Which is very cool. And it may even be useful to someone. </div>
MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-51087862134722325552013-06-11T00:00:00.000-05:002013-06-11T00:00:01.491-05:00Brew Hauler IIA while ago, I described <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2012/02/modified-brew-hauler.html" target="_blank">a modification I made to a brew hauler to keep it from sagging.</a> (I also explained what a brew hauler is...)<br />
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Now, I'm going to describe a modification to keep the brew hauler from getting tangled.<br />
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I tend to leave my brew hauler on the carboy throughout fermentation. This can result in stuff being spilled and general filth accumulating on the brew hauler. I typically run it through the washing machine after brewing a batch to clean it up.<br />
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This usually results in the straps becoming twisted, tangled, and slid out-of-place. This requires minutes (MINUTES!!) of tedious untangling. This post shows you how this can be eliminated with a few mere hours of work. <br />
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Here you can see a tangled and discombobulated brew hauler after it has been washed.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8UHnGbTAFYI/UZGA9YSbpOI/AAAAAAAAEXw/DIJ2JjaX7RY/s1600/IMAG0410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8UHnGbTAFYI/UZGA9YSbpOI/AAAAAAAAEXw/DIJ2JjaX7RY/s640/IMAG0410.jpg" width="369" /></a></div>
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Here is a closer view. You can see the ends of the straps bunched closely together. The handles and straps can be rotated around making it difficult to know which side should be up.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sL0zFeaEjiY/UZGA9tAMgBI/AAAAAAAAEX0/DZshii_8v90/s1600/IMAG0412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sL0zFeaEjiY/UZGA9tAMgBI/AAAAAAAAEX0/DZshii_8v90/s640/IMAG0412.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Step 1 is to sort out the brew hauler and place it on the carboy.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RnA4bOaPFEU/UZGA9v_XJlI/AAAAAAAAEX4/ctXHV5Q-IFU/s1600/IMAG0416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RnA4bOaPFEU/UZGA9v_XJlI/AAAAAAAAEX4/ctXHV5Q-IFU/s400/IMAG0416.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 2 is to arrange the straps so that they are evenly spaced and the handles are directly opposite from each other. The straps should form an even star pattern when viewed from above.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g-VyZL__Ytk/UZGA9y_aZNI/AAAAAAAAEYA/8z97dM0xSOc/s1600/IMAG0418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g-VyZL__Ytk/UZGA9y_aZNI/AAAAAAAAEYA/8z97dM0xSOc/s400/IMAG0418.jpg" width="372" /></a></div>
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Step 3 is to mark the location of the straps using something that can be seen on the black webbing. In my case, I used a silver Sharpie.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--BcawH6j_MI/UZGA-NkKjEI/AAAAAAAAEYE/_1cyKgJ-GyU/s1600/IMAG0419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--BcawH6j_MI/UZGA-NkKjEI/AAAAAAAAEYE/_1cyKgJ-GyU/s320/IMAG0419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 4 is to grab a needle and thread and sew the straps in place.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GngtyM10yNo/UZGA-PqCQKI/AAAAAAAAEYI/E4QEgeyj33Y/s1600/IMAG0420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GngtyM10yNo/UZGA-PqCQKI/AAAAAAAAEYI/E4QEgeyj33Y/s320/IMAG0420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is the finished version. You can see the short line of stitching that holds the ends of the handles/straps to the center belt.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K_dp05NtFZ8/UZGA-VoLRGI/AAAAAAAAEYM/_QUMQ5qnrtg/s1600/IMAG0421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K_dp05NtFZ8/UZGA-VoLRGI/AAAAAAAAEYM/_QUMQ5qnrtg/s640/IMAG0421.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The thread is not required to be load-bearing. It serves only to keep the straps from wandering off. This modification makes it incredibly easy to straighten things out after washing, but means that the brew hauler can only be used on a single size of carboy. In my opinion it is very worth it. <br />
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MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-79780939462188294082013-05-28T00:00:00.000-05:002013-05-28T11:04:55.481-05:00Line Cutter BladeWhen scuba diving, it is important to be able to cut your way out of tangles. This is especially true if you are diving in places where people go fishing. It is difficult to see monofilament fishing line underwater. Entanglement is a real hazard.<br />
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For this reason, most scuba divers carry a dive knife with them. It is also a good idea to have an easily accessible backup, just in case your normal knife is lost or cannot be reached.<br />
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I own a <a href="http://www.diverite.com/products/catalog/accessories/ac3210" target="_blank">Dive Rite Z-Knife line cutter</a> as a backup.<br />
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It is based on the design of a parachute line cutter for cutting away a tangled chute before opening the spare. It has a razor sharp blade, and its shape minimizes the risk of accidentally cutting yourself when using it.<br />
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I like it, but there is one disappointing drawback. If you happen to try to cut steel fishing cable, you will only succeed in destroying that sharp little blade. It also has the tendency to rust over time. (Mine lasted a few months before rusting, but only one trip before I tried cutting something it couldn't.)<br />
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<b>They don't sell replacement blades.</b><br />
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Or at least not ones that I could find.<br />
<a href="http://www.diveoz.com.au/discussion_forums/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=20146" target="_blank">These people couldn't find them either.</a><br />
<a href="http://divingforme.com/topic/dive-rite-line-cutter-need-replacement-blade" target="_blank">These people had some ideas, but nothing readily available.</a><br />
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So. Since it appeared that the only option was replacing the whole thing, I had nothing to lose by trying to modify mine.<br />
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First, I removed the old blade. It measured 26 mm by 8 mm.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HynJGICdV5Q/UYmaPNEvacI/AAAAAAAAEUw/ALtXY0VGwb8/s1600/IMAG0483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="84" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HynJGICdV5Q/UYmaPNEvacI/AAAAAAAAEUw/ALtXY0VGwb8/s200/IMAG0483.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J6tah-pFri0/UYmaPkZMW6I/AAAAAAAAEVA/cEU8sjFZ4CM/s1600/IMAG0486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J6tah-pFri0/UYmaPkZMW6I/AAAAAAAAEVA/cEU8sjFZ4CM/s320/IMAG0486.jpg" width="172" /></a></div>
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Next, I scoured the internet trying to find an identical replacement. No luck.<br />
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Finally I went to the local hardware store and found this. It has a stainless blade (not sure what grade, but we'll see how it lasts), and the blade width of 9 mm is very close to the 8 mm blade I removed.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z47X4MZCvMs/UYmaRVwt2jI/AAAAAAAAEVk/ZyiJn7Nb9Q4/s1600/IMAG0491.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z47X4MZCvMs/UYmaRVwt2jI/AAAAAAAAEVk/ZyiJn7Nb9Q4/s1600/IMAG0491.jpg" /></a></div>
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I broke off a section that consisted of four segments of the blade, and ended up with this piece. It is remarkably close in size to the blade I removed.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AV5J1Xu-1do/UYmaPbCW7dI/AAAAAAAAEU0/NcfRcEnoOXE/s1600/IMAG0484.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AV5J1Xu-1do/UYmaPbCW7dI/AAAAAAAAEU0/NcfRcEnoOXE/s200/IMAG0484.jpg" width="197" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zu_qqwAMNiM/UYmaPWkDuvI/AAAAAAAAEU8/KpQ-2YLeIyM/s1600/IMAG0485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zu_qqwAMNiM/UYmaPWkDuvI/AAAAAAAAEU8/KpQ-2YLeIyM/s200/IMAG0485.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Next, I partially pushed in the new blade. It was a little difficult. I could tell that the blade was larger. To fix this, I used the pencil torch <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2013/02/soldering-irons.html" target="_blank">from my arsenal.</a> I heated the point of the blade for a few seconds and then used needle-nosed pliers to pull the hot blade into place. This melted away some of the plastic, making room for the different-shaped blade end. It still interfered with the screw hole after the first time, so I pulled it back, reheated, and pushed it a little further. Below you can see the before and after.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iqR7Al84sns/UYmaP4V0LQI/AAAAAAAAEVE/8Ru_ZsrCMPk/s1600/IMAG0487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iqR7Al84sns/UYmaP4V0LQI/AAAAAAAAEVE/8Ru_ZsrCMPk/s320/IMAG0487.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_8_IftLCjeI/UYmaQtZ2WaI/AAAAAAAAEVY/62pJz3MWvxo/s1600/IMAG0488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_8_IftLCjeI/UYmaQtZ2WaI/AAAAAAAAEVY/62pJz3MWvxo/s320/IMAG0488.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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Using the needle-nose pliers, it was pretty easy to remove and install the blade at this point. (I took the comparison pictures of the two blades after doing this. That's why the tip of the new blade is discolored in the pictures at the beginning.)<br />
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Here you can see the final result. The blade is firmly held in place by the screw.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nmVJSK-rbew/UYmaQrhUgyI/AAAAAAAAEVM/ISDKprmjfis/s1600/IMAG0489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nmVJSK-rbew/UYmaQrhUgyI/AAAAAAAAEVM/ISDKprmjfis/s320/IMAG0489.jpg" width="196" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EBF5Ri14NgA/UYmaQylbE5I/AAAAAAAAEVU/8znLBTYGJv4/s1600/IMAG0490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EBF5Ri14NgA/UYmaQylbE5I/AAAAAAAAEVU/8znLBTYGJv4/s320/IMAG0490.jpg" width="170" /></a></div>
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There was enough left of the box cutter blade to make 3 more of these replacements. We'll see how long they last, but this appears to be much more economical than replacing it each time the blade is damaged or rusts.<br />
<br />MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-42002432752732592572013-05-21T00:00:00.000-05:002013-05-21T00:00:08.946-05:00Planting GuideSomething brilliant was shared with me on Facebook the other day.<br />
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It is a guide for which <a href="http://onecreativemommy.com/planning-the-garden-companion-planting-free-printable-helpful-insects/" target="_blank">common garden plants should be grown together</a>.<br />
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I am posting a version of it here that I cleaned up a bit.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cOY-_58yJDc/UYHJaFIcd8I/AAAAAAAAEQQ/eMKpY6xXe3k/s1600/plants.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cOY-_58yJDc/UYHJaFIcd8I/AAAAAAAAEQQ/eMKpY6xXe3k/s1600/plants.png" /></a></div>
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MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-49679312093302427532013-05-14T00:00:00.000-05:002013-05-14T00:00:01.516-05:00A Tale of Two PhonesI am eligible for a cell phone upgrade. I currently use an HTC Evo 3D. I have been semi-happy with this phone. The 3D camera and screen is rather fun. It does a good job overall. <div>
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These are my complaints: </div>
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<li>It was from a time before NFC, and I want to play with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/TagsForDroid-Tags-Chain-Stickers-MIFARE/dp/B006TGVPL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1367371828&sr=8-3&keywords=NFC+tags" target="_blank">NFC tags</a>. </li>
<li>The camera does a poor job in low-light. </li>
<li>HTC is not great about rolling out new versions of Android. </li>
<li>No wireless charging option. (Wireless charging is cool!)</li>
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Of those complaints, one that bothered me the most was the lack of updates. I thought there was an easy answer to this. <a href="http://www.google.com/nexus/4/" target="_blank">The Google Nexus 4</a>. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fLy-xGm5ZWc/UYB_KhyEQxI/AAAAAAAAEPk/j-NTdQ1d5mk/s1600/n4-product-hero.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fLy-xGm5ZWc/UYB_KhyEQxI/AAAAAAAAEPk/j-NTdQ1d5mk/s320/n4-product-hero.png" width="219" /></a></div>
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Pros:</div>
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<li>It is made by Google. It runs stock Android. Updates will be immediately available. +++</li>
<li>It has NFC. +</li>
<li>It has built-in wireless charging capability. +</li>
<li>It was given a <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+4+Teardown/11781/1" target="_blank">7 out of 10 repairability score on ifixit.com.</a> This matters to me since I had to replace the digitizer (front glass) on my Evo 3D on three separate occasions. ++</li>
<li>Decent technical specs and a very reasonable price. ++</li>
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Cons:</div>
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<li>It is not available on Sprint, and doesn't look like it will be. There is really no reason to continue. </li>
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Time to look at phones that will actually be available on the carrier I would like to continue using. That may be a better place to start...</div>
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The <a href="http://www.htc.com/www/smartphones/htc-one/" target="_blank">HTC One</a> seems pretty nice. Let's see what it has to offer.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3ppHd7kwigg/UYB-xC4C2FI/AAAAAAAAEPY/GxoRMJ5H8bc/s1600/HTC-ProductDetail-Hero-slide-04.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="284" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3ppHd7kwigg/UYB-xC4C2FI/AAAAAAAAEPY/GxoRMJ5H8bc/s320/HTC-ProductDetail-Hero-slide-04.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pros:</div>
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<li>It is made by HTC. There is a good chance it can be rooted to allow for more customization. +</li>
<li>The camera is especially designed for good performance in low-light. +++</li>
<li>It has NFC. +</li>
<li>Decent technical specs and a reasonable price. ++</li>
<li>Beautiful and durable aluminum construction. +</li>
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Cons:</div>
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<li>It is made by HTC. Android updates will be slow. And they will stop altogether after about a year. -</li>
<li>It was given a <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC+One+Teardown/13494/1" target="_blank">0 out of 10 repairability score on ifixit.com.</a> Non-removable battery. -----</li>
<li>No built-in wireless charging capability. -</li>
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How about the <a href="http://www.samsung.com/us/guide-to-galaxy-smart-devices/galaxy-s-4-smartphone.html?cid=ppc-" target="_blank">Samsung Galaxy S4</a>? </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NUu2A6AyDzY/UYB-wzlBuUI/AAAAAAAAEPM/uQaDLOVex-o/s1600/galaxy-s4-meet-black.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="259" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NUu2A6AyDzY/UYB-wzlBuUI/AAAAAAAAEPM/uQaDLOVex-o/s320/galaxy-s4-meet-black.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pros:</div>
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<li>It has NFC. +</li>
<li>It was given an <a href="http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung+Galaxy+S4+Teardown/13947/1" target="_blank">8 out of 10 repairability score on ifixit.com.</a> ++</li>
<li>Potential for a <a href="http://www.gottabemobile.com/2013/03/28/samsung-galaxy-s4-wireless-charging-kit-detailed/" target="_blank">replacement back</a> to enable wireless charging. </li>
<li>Decent technical specs but slightly more expensive price. +</li>
<li>Wide variety of interesting sensors including gyro, accelerometer, proximity, ambient light, gesture, barometer, temperature, and humidity. +</li>
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Cons:</div>
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<li>Normal camera compared to the HTC One's low light version. --</li>
<li>Plastic construction. </li>
<li>Samsung has a slightly worse <a href="http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2012/12/the-checkered-slow-history-of-android-handset-updates/" target="_blank">update history than HTC</a>. - </li>
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I think I am leaning toward the Samsung Galaxy S4, but it is not perfect. It may be good enough, though. I will have to think on this further, and see what it is like in person as soon as it shows up at the Sprint store. </div>
MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-69978164659579685762013-05-07T00:00:00.000-05:002013-05-07T00:00:09.842-05:00Brake PadsI ran across this article from the car talk guys. It had good information about different types of brake pads. Just thought I would pass this along in an off-week post.<br />
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<a href="http://www.cartalk.com/content/today-all-about-brake-pads">http://www.cartalk.com/content/today-all-about-brake-pads</a><br />
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<br />MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-86195298325986722722013-04-30T00:00:00.000-05:002013-04-30T06:08:44.454-05:00An Egg TimerI just had a perfectly cooked boiled egg. That's not terribly unusual. The unusual part is that for once I have confidence that I can do it again whenever I want. All thanks to a brilliantly designed egg timer.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TfU8H9Fh4TA/UW9KbsMM5pI/AAAAAAAAEOs/enWPTLMa_KY/s1600/egg-timer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TfU8H9Fh4TA/UW9KbsMM5pI/AAAAAAAAEOs/enWPTLMa_KY/s320/egg-timer.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Sabrina found this when we were wandering through <a href="http://www.crateandbarrel.com/egg-timer/s353892" target="_blank">Crate and Barrel</a>. I'm going to provide some info on exactly how it works, since the packaging leaves a little to be desired.<br />
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The timer is simply a clear plastic egg with a layer of temperature sensitive material in the middle. It is placed in the boiling water with the eggs, and the red portion slowly changes to black as the eggs cook.<br />
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This is what it looks like as time progresses:<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ezODu-HSN3Q/UW9KblpYrxI/AAAAAAAAEO0/yoLJb8uLT1o/s1600/IMAG0472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ezODu-HSN3Q/UW9KblpYrxI/AAAAAAAAEO0/yoLJb8uLT1o/s400/IMAG0472.jpg" width="265" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KPMneJTUxh4/UW9Kb9VL_qI/AAAAAAAAEOw/uLpzarGgZ_Y/s1600/IMAG0465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KPMneJTUxh4/UW9Kb9VL_qI/AAAAAAAAEOw/uLpzarGgZ_Y/s400/IMAG0465.jpg" width="285" /></a><br />
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Note the difference in how the scale looks between the first picture and these two. When the egg is under water, the scale is easier to read, partially due to the curvature of the top surface.<br />
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I store it in the fridge with my eggs. I figure it is important that they start off at the same temperature. Then I drop it into the boiling water at the same time as the eggs. <br />
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The brilliance of this design is that it doesn't matter what temperature the water is. (Like if you add a bunch of eggs to a small amount of water, if you cook at a different altitude, if you sometimes salt the water, or even if you turn off the heat at some point.) The time fluctuates, but the timer compensates and reads correctly based on heat transfer. Not bad for $5.<br />
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The one downside is that there is no audible alert that your eggs have reached the desired level of hardness. You have to check on it periodically. For me, this is not a big deal. I have started cooking eggs while doing other things in the kitchen. (Like washing dishes, cleaning, cooking, etc.) This keeps me in the same room, so it is easy to glance into the pot every few minutes (Or to fish out the timer with a spoon if it is too difficult to see through the bubbling water and steam.)MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-85201717336909606732013-04-16T00:00:00.000-05:002013-04-16T00:00:04.453-05:00Mash Starch TestI homebrew beer. I haven't talked about it much since February 2012 where I described <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2012/02/my-brewing-fridge.html" target="_blank">the chest freezer I use to control fermentation and lagering temperatures.</a><br />
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Today I'm going to describe an experiment Sabrina and I did testing the effectiveness of my mashing procedure.<br />
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Mashing is the first step in making beer from malted barley and other grains. During the mash, you heat a mixture of crushed grain and water up to certain temperatures. You hold the temperature constant at one or many different points to allow the naturally occurring enzymes in the malt to convert starches into simpler sugars. Mashing usually involves holding temperatures for up to 90 minutes.<br />
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One method of testing the progress of this conversion is to perform an iodine starch test. A good description of what is going on can be <a href="http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Iodine_Test" target="_blank">found here</a>. In brief, when an iodine solution is exposed to starch, the iodine changes color from dark brown to intense purple/black. Once all the long-chain starches are broken down, the iodine test will be negative. There will be no color change when the iodine solution is mixed with the wort. (Wort is the liquid sugar solution produced in the mash, or unfermented beer.)<br />
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The first experiment we did was to perform the iodine test every 10 to 15 minutes during a 90 minute mash rest. We also measured pH using test strips. We recorded time and temperature on the end of each test strip. Here you can see the results:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CGfZHKGVn6I/UTVnQgUxM6I/AAAAAAAAEFs/NztAKk16FkQ/s1600/IMAG0019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CGfZHKGVn6I/UTVnQgUxM6I/AAAAAAAAEFs/NztAKk16FkQ/s1600/IMAG0019.jpg" /></a></div>
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The test was done by placing several drops of wort on <a href="http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Iodine_test" target="_blank">a piece of chalk.</a> A medicine dropper makes this much easier, just be sure to rinse it well between samples. Next, a couple drops of iodine solution were placed on the same piece of chalk. If you are careful to ensure that the iodine drops cover both part of the chalk soaked in wort and part of the dry chalk, it is very easy to detect if a subtle color change occurs. You can see this effect rather clearly in the 80 minute and 90 minute samples above.<br />
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One thing I was not expecting was that once the iodine and wort evaporated from the chalk, the color disappeared. You can see how the color from the earlier samples is fading away. The color of the pH test strips also faded away as they dried.<br />
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I still had questions after this first experiment. All samples had been taken from the drain at the bottom of the mash container immediately after the mash had been stirred up.<br />
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The next time I made beer, we continued the experiment and collected more detailed data. This time we took samples from various locations in the mash, both with and without stirring. The pH was written down at each step so this time I have an accurate record of pH changes. Samples were taken every 15 minutes during a 60 minute mash.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iZvjOWQeqIw/UTVpYkvi8YI/AAAAAAAAEF8/1LujBSulQs0/s1600/IMAG0358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iZvjOWQeqIw/UTVpYkvi8YI/AAAAAAAAEF8/1LujBSulQs0/s400/IMAG0358.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The sample at the start of the mash was taken immediately after stirring together the water and grain. There was a clear purple color. 15 minutes later, three samples were tested. One from the drain without mixing or stirring (N), one at the top of the mash where the grain and water are mixed together (T), and one from the drain after mixing (M).<br />
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Without mixing, there was no reaction. This leads me to believe that the enzymes rather quickly convert the starches that are dissolved in solution. The top and mixed samples showed varying degrees of reaction. My conclusion is that at the top, starches continue to dissolve into the wort from the grain, and after stirring, these starches are distributed throughout the mixture.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7CREl5oRzXQ/UTVpYjKn7oI/AAAAAAAAEGA/r6T_XYdHkdk/s1600/IMAG0361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="311" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7CREl5oRzXQ/UTVpYjKn7oI/AAAAAAAAEGA/r6T_XYdHkdk/s400/IMAG0361.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The results from the rest of the mash were relatively unexciting. The reaction showed negative at 30, 45, and 60 minutes. This indicates that starch conversion finished rather early. A negative starch test doesn't necessarily mean that the mash was finished this early since the enzymes will continue to break down sugars. However, it is a good indication that the mash is progressing well.<br />
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A quick word on the iodine solution used for this. I bought 10% providone-iodine solution from the first aid section of my local pharmacy. I then diluted it 10 to 1 with rubbing alcohol. This lightens the color of the iodine so that the more subtle purple reaction can be seen. Otherwise the iodine is very dark and can mask a partially positive reaction.<br />
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I have heard that this test also works well using <a href="http://www.nationalchemicals.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=69&SID=fa540488717ced79179271ba8136e7ce" target="_blank">iodophor</a>, a no-rinse sanitizer that is often used in homebrewing. Simply dilute the iodophor 10 to 1 with rubbing alcohol and it should work the same.<br />
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The Container Store sells some <a href="http://www.containerstore.com/shop?productId=10007852&N=&Ns=p_sort_default%7C0&Ntt=dropper" target="_blank">amber glass bottles with built-in medicine droppers</a> that worked very well for storing and dispensing the iodine solution. It made it easier to avoid spills, which is important since iodine stains.<br />
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A couple months after I did my experiments, I ran across an episode of the Basic Brewing Radio podcast that goes into great detail on the subject. If you are interested, look for <a href="http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2011" target="_blank">the March 3, 2011 episode.</a>MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-69084734298321726552013-04-02T00:00:00.001-05:002013-04-02T00:00:03.892-05:00Adventures in Plumbing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My parents' house has a well that supplies their water. About a year ago, they had a less-than-competent contractor install a storage cistern and a booster pump. </div>
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The contractor didn't anchor down the pump base, depending entirely on the weak PVC pipe and gravity to hold it in place against constant vibration. The electrical work he did had to be completely redone by someone else. The concrete cistern has leaked since day one, even after several repair attempts by the original contractor </div>
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The pump started leaking much more recently, and much worse. What looks like a blurry water drop at the rightmost corner is a constant stream. This is what the leak looked like with the booster pump turned off and the piping downstream depressured. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Uk8dGad4Bvc/UPSz1_JQItI/AAAAAAAAD_Y/rf0m7mOPthY/s1600/IMAG0326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="608" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Uk8dGad4Bvc/UPSz1_JQItI/AAAAAAAAD_Y/rf0m7mOPthY/s640/IMAG0326.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The first step I took was to disconnect the piping from the downstream union and I began to unscrew it from the pump. The pipe was loose! It wasn't even screwed in tightly. The piping configuration makes it impossible for the pipe to unscrew itself from the pump without disconnecting it downstream. Here is an overview of the pump and piping configuration. The piece that I removed comes out of the top of the pump and connects to the half of the union seen above and to the right of the opening.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pkWZl2_8oXc/UPSz2gZmfEI/AAAAAAAAD_o/fVa4LCtLpX0/s1600/IMAG0330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pkWZl2_8oXc/UPSz2gZmfEI/AAAAAAAAD_o/fVa4LCtLpX0/s640/IMAG0330.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once I had the piping removed, I took a closer look at the opening on the pump. This is what I saw. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OvUXLfFvIIw/UPSz3NRX38I/AAAAAAAAEAA/SwYZUs0xTxE/s1600/IMAG0332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="346" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OvUXLfFvIIw/UPSz3NRX38I/AAAAAAAAEAA/SwYZUs0xTxE/s400/IMAG0332.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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There was metal sticking out into the bottom portion of the threaded opening. It looked like it might be flash left over from when the pump housing was cast. It deserved a closer look. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8F7KTevXXzU/UPSz20j1VaI/AAAAAAAAD_w/IMg_cVsG074/s1600/IMAG0331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8F7KTevXXzU/UPSz20j1VaI/AAAAAAAAD_w/IMg_cVsG074/s640/IMAG0331.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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That's strange... It looks like the threads abruptly stop.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Dy7pEBTP2l8/UPSz3mPVuhI/AAAAAAAAEAM/fUmG5fV7GGE/s1600/IMAG0333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="514" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Dy7pEBTP2l8/UPSz3mPVuhI/AAAAAAAAEAM/fUmG5fV7GGE/s640/IMAG0333.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yup. The threads definitely stop. My only thought is that this might have been done to prevent threading the pipe in too far. If the pipe went past the inside surface of the pump case, it could hit the impeller (the part that spins.) </div>
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Let's take a close look at the pipe I removed. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ny83sspy_CE/UPSz2dPmXII/AAAAAAAAD_k/qVyYgkmm8sE/s1600/IMAG0329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="550" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ny83sspy_CE/UPSz2dPmXII/AAAAAAAAD_k/qVyYgkmm8sE/s640/IMAG0329.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The first thread at the end of the pipe is rather screwed up. It's as if it were tightened past that point where the threads in the pump stopped. It's almost exactly like that. </div>
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At this point it is important to understand how tapered pipe threads are supposed to seal. The seal occurs at the threads as they fit tightly together. <a href="http://iamechatronics.com/notes/general-engineering/236-pipe-and-pipe-fittings" target="_blank">This site provides excellent diagrams of what should be happening.</a> I have modified them below to illustrate what was happening in this specific case. When the pipe bottomed out, the threads were still loosely engaged. This allowed the water to leak out past the threads. I used a saw to shorten the pipe, removing the two smallest threads at the end. It was then able to seal tightly. A small amount of Teflon tape or joint compound seals any small gaps left in the imperfect threads. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BYlQn0jfLyM/UPTF5qwFoQI/AAAAAAAAEAs/uzZz7TU_tBs/s1600/Pipe_Fittings_Fig_004.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BYlQn0jfLyM/UPTF5qwFoQI/AAAAAAAAEAs/uzZz7TU_tBs/s640/Pipe_Fittings_Fig_004.png" width="593" /></a></div>
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Below you can see the before and after pictures of the pipe. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LGMKiJ4y9qo/UPSz2NRx_PI/AAAAAAAAD_c/ZDfkhOr-F9E/s1600/IMAG0327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="250" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LGMKiJ4y9qo/UPSz2NRx_PI/AAAAAAAAD_c/ZDfkhOr-F9E/s640/IMAG0327.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Based on what I showed above, this is what I think happened. The contractor screwed the pipe in place, tightened it to the point it became difficult, and then discovered that it leaked. When it leaked, he tightened the crap out of it until it stopped leaking, damaging the plastic pipe thread as it bottomed out in the hole. However, the threads were still not properly tight. The only reason it stopped leaking was due to the rather excessive amount of joint compound that was used. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w0vEc4xS6T8/UPSz3m9A2XI/AAAAAAAAEAI/QSXcCL77j4Y/s1600/IMAG0337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w0vEc4xS6T8/UPSz3m9A2XI/AAAAAAAAEAI/QSXcCL77j4Y/s400/IMAG0337.jpg" width="244" /></a></div>
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This is pipe joint compound. More is not better... </div>
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The contractor saw the opening of the pump when he assembled the system. He failed to notice the rather obvious metal bits extending into where the pipe should be threaded. This is one more example of the shoddy job that was done all-around. </div>
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Here is the final result after my repairs. If you compare this to the original picture of the leak, you can see that the pipe threaded in further. This created a good tight seal that should last. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qEO5_mFiBSY/UPSz3xp2jiI/AAAAAAAAEAQ/3Ffr4g_Tjcc/s1600/IMAG0340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="520" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qEO5_mFiBSY/UPSz3xp2jiI/AAAAAAAAEAQ/3Ffr4g_Tjcc/s640/IMAG0340.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The leak started shortly after we had replaced the filter downstream of the pump. What we did must have been just enough to disturb the loose joint and start the leak. Both the inlet and outlet connections on the pump had the same problem, and were fixed the same way.<br />
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<span style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="http://despair.com/demotivators.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ABONJOlJZ4s/UPTNE4do-sI/AAAAAAAAEBE/W1P-TDk7yPc/s1600/incompetence.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<a href="http://despair.com/demotivators.html" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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<a href="http://despair.com/demotivators.html" target="_blank">I dislike incompetence. Consistency doesn't make it better.</a></div>
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<br />MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-3402675451835502912013-03-19T00:00:00.000-05:002013-03-19T00:00:01.993-05:00Tool Box RepairThis is a tale of overcoming poor customer service.<br />
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I have to be fair. It was not <i>terrible</i> customer service. I don't even think I would call it <i>bad</i> customer service. It just wasn't <i>good</i> customer service.<br />
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Let's start at the beginning.<br />
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For the past couple years, I have been making do with my tools stored in various cardboard boxes and tool bags. This is less than optimal, especially when I am digging through a box unable to find what I was looking for.<br />
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On Black Friday, with the encouragement and support of my girlfriend, I purchased a tool box.<br />
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A large tool box.<br />
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A beautiful tool box with shallow drawers that can hold a single layer of well-organized tools.<br />
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I purchased it at a Lowes that was three hours away from where I live. I was spending Thanksgiving with family in the area.<br />
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Once I got it home, I unpacked it, and discovered a sad surprise. The front of one of the drawers was damaged.<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3oS_vltG4TQ/URBvzWGirJI/AAAAAAAAECw/DUaagDtHKaY/s1600/IMAG0265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3oS_vltG4TQ/URBvzWGirJI/AAAAAAAAECw/DUaagDtHKaY/s640/IMAG0265.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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It looks like it was hit with something. The aluminum handle was scraped and bent. The stainless drawer front was also bent. It was bad enough to have broken the rivet that attached that end of the handle to the drawer.<br />
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This made me sad.<br />
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I had noticed a hole in the cardboard box when we were loading it into my car, but I hadn't thought anything of it at the time. If I had caught it then, I could have exchanged it on the spot. That would have been much easier. I think the lesson to be learned is to unpack things before leaving the parking lot. Especially if there is any damage to the packaging. Oh well. <br />
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Luckily, there was a customer service number printed on the front cover of the instruction manual. It said to call them before returning it to the store. It stated their hours to be 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday.<br />
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It was early in the evening, so I gave them a call. I was quickly informed that the department I needed for my product closed at 5:00 or 6:00 p.m. and was given a different number to try the next business day. It annoyed me that both the number and hours printed on the manual for my product were wrong.<br />
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When I got ahold of them, I was given an email address and told to send them my information, a copy of the receipt, and a clear description of the problem.<br />
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I couldn't find my receipt, which made me annoyed with myself. Luckily Lowes has an easy way to request a duplicate receipt. It took 10 business days, which I was perfectly fine with. I was the one that had lost the receipt, after all. Once I had a copy of the receipt, I sent the email. The email included the sentence:<br />
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The face of the drawer measures approximately 23" wide by 2" tall.</blockquote>
I got a response the same day. They did not have the drawer front available, but they did have the handle. I was disappointed, and I considered taking it back. But, it is rather heavy and difficult to move. I asked them to send me the handle since that is what had the worst damage. I was pretty sure I could straighten the drawer front. <br />
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I had access to a 20 ton shop press. I used it and some gentle guidance with a rubber mallet to flatten out the bent drawer front.<br />
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Here is the before picture:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qrYL9nUu6_A/URBvztQ3fnI/AAAAAAAAEDA/wrmCdqtJ8N0/s1600/IMAG0283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qrYL9nUu6_A/URBvztQ3fnI/AAAAAAAAEDA/wrmCdqtJ8N0/s640/IMAG0283.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And this is what it looked like after.<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kQL44TxF1dc/URBvzyiW40I/AAAAAAAAEC8/NqYcTGeXO8g/s1600/IMAG0345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="280" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kQL44TxF1dc/URBvzyiW40I/AAAAAAAAEC8/NqYcTGeXO8g/s640/IMAG0345.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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It is not perfect, but few things are. </div>
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Six days later, I had a package waiting for me. It was a drawer handle. It even included replacement rivets.<br />
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The only problem with it was that it was the <i>wrong</i> handle. The one they sent me was 36.5" long. I considered cutting it to size, but none of the rivet holes lined up. I was hesitant to drill the holes since they had to line up perfectly with the ones on the drawer for the rivets to hold, and it was an awkward angle to drill in place.<br />
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I emailed back and explained the misunderstanding. They respond the next day that they will gladly supply the correct one after I ship back the one they sent.<br />
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I asked how they would like to arrange to pay for return shipping, and I didn't hear from them for eight days. They finally emailed me a shipping label.<br />
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The replacement replacement part was mailed after they received the one I sent back, and this is what arrived:<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UfsESsehb7w/URBvz-zsEAI/AAAAAAAAEC4/wM_HEuWPc94/s1600/IMAG0343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UfsESsehb7w/URBvz-zsEAI/AAAAAAAAEC4/wM_HEuWPc94/s640/IMAG0343.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The top handle is the damaged one. The bottom is the replacement. This time it was the correct length, but the rivet holes still did not match.<br />
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I decided that this was probably the best I was going to get from them. They had the model number and exact location and size of the drawer from the very beginning. They couldn't supply the correct part after two tries.<br />
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I carefully drilled holes in the correct locations:<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TI-3Lq4-5Rg/URBv0PscmxI/AAAAAAAAEDE/MUrkMq-Yzz0/s1600/IMAG0348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="122" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TI-3Lq4-5Rg/URBv0PscmxI/AAAAAAAAEDE/MUrkMq-Yzz0/s640/IMAG0348.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I then pop-riveted the handle back in place. The rivets that they had supplied were just a bit too long to hold it tightly. Another minor incompetence.<br />
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With some shorter rivets, this was the final result:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yeo4l-FkiKc/URBv0b8fZAI/AAAAAAAAEDI/dXJNYPJzpTQ/s1600/IMAG0349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yeo4l-FkiKc/URBv0b8fZAI/AAAAAAAAEDI/dXJNYPJzpTQ/s640/IMAG0349.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is more than good enough to make me happy. In the end, it was easier than lugging the thing back to the store, but not nearly as easy as it should have been. If they had supplied the complete drawer, replacements for both damaged parts, or even the correct drawer handle, it would have been a much quicker repair.<br />
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I am very happy with my repaired tool box. It seems well-made and has been a joy to use. I would recommend it, so long as you never need to depend on their customer service.<br />
<br />MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-83627453559555244882013-03-05T00:00:00.000-06:002013-03-05T00:00:03.314-06:00Son of FrånkenLämp<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
When I finished with <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2013/01/frankenlamp-part-i.html" target="_blank">FrånkenLämp</a>, there were a few useful parts left over.</div>
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Namely, there were two bulbs left from the TIVED. I decided to put these to good use. My workbench could use a little more light.<br />
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I started by taping the two light stalks together at the base. I just used electrical tape at first. You can see the wiring coming out of the ends.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hpzpEOJK9kA/URBhU9bp4KI/AAAAAAAAEB8/H4MCBwnb8m0/s1600/IMAG0284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="252" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hpzpEOJK9kA/URBhU9bp4KI/AAAAAAAAEB8/H4MCBwnb8m0/s640/IMAG0284.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Note the black resistor attached to one of the wires. It is important to keep this in the circuit, depending on how you set it up.<br />
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The original lamp had a 12.5 volt power supply. This fed three bulbs in series. So each bulb requires about four volts. If you have a 12 volt power supply, you will need to keep the resistor in series with the two remaining bulbs to avoid running them at too high a voltage.<br />
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If you have an 8 volt power supply, you don't need to use the resistor. You could just wire the two bulbs in series.<br />
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If you have a 4 volt power supply, you don't need the resistor either. You could wire the two bulbs in parallel.<br />
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Since I only had a 12 volt power supply handy, I stuck with the resistor.<br />
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After soldering the wiring, the next thing I did was to cover the electrical tape and loose wires with heat shrink. This will prevent the electrical tape from unraveling over time and becoming a sticky mess. Heat shrink is much nicer than electrical tape, in my opinion. In the picture below, you can see the section of heat shrink that I slid onto the stalks before taping them together.<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DFRqKZjwA_k/URBhU6TaTwI/AAAAAAAAEB0/3-XezPp-sTQ/s1600/IMAG0285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DFRqKZjwA_k/URBhU6TaTwI/AAAAAAAAEB0/3-XezPp-sTQ/s640/IMAG0285.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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And here you can see the result after shrinking. Note that I cut the piece of heat shrink in half so it could cover both taped areas. The wiring and resistor are nicely contained by the heat shrink at the end.<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CtPXyG2WC_w/URBhVMWVTWI/AAAAAAAAEB4/nXLJmkK5mHU/s1600/IMAG0286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="236" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CtPXyG2WC_w/URBhVMWVTWI/AAAAAAAAEB4/nXLJmkK5mHU/s640/IMAG0286.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I used a spare molex connector (stolen from a broken compter case fan). This made it very easy to use the 12 volt output of my <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2013/02/useful-power-supply.html" target="_blank">handy bench power supply.</a> It is probably a temporary solution until I can find a 12 volt wall wort to replace it with.<br />
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I attached the lamp to the underside of a wire shelf that sits next to my workbench. I used tie wraps to hold it in place. Then I ran temporary power to it, as you can see below.<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wzoafHkc1VI/URBhVnO1CZI/AAAAAAAAECE/n1PlMRVs9_g/s1600/IMAG0288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wzoafHkc1VI/URBhVnO1CZI/AAAAAAAAECE/n1PlMRVs9_g/s640/IMAG0288.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Here is the final result.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H19xBdpX2Io/URBhVuSKbyI/AAAAAAAAECI/9q_X4uby-g8/s1600/IMAG0291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H19xBdpX2Io/URBhVuSKbyI/AAAAAAAAECI/9q_X4uby-g8/s640/IMAG0291.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
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The bulbs put out a decent amount of light, and the angle is just perfect to illuminate what I am working on without getting in the way. It clears up the useful work space that was taken up by my previous lamp.<br />
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Not bad for leftover parts and pieces.<br />
<br />MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-79254947372755219562013-02-26T00:00:00.000-06:002013-02-26T00:00:03.334-06:00Blue is TerribleThis is a quick follow up to my post a few months ago about <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2012/11/the-best-highlighter.html" target="_blank">Sharpie Gel Highlighters.</a><br />
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At the time I wrote the post, I was still ecstatic over the discovery of this wondrous innovation. Now, after I have had a chance to use more than just the yellow one, I'm going to reply with the sage advice won from experience.<br />
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These are the best highlighters I have ever used, with one small exception.<br />
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The blue one is awful. After I took the following picture, I threw the blue one away.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EhcRgRYup3w/URm-a-WqTeI/AAAAAAAAED0/MO8It-pcTNo/s1600/IMAG0368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="86" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EhcRgRYup3w/URm-a-WqTeI/AAAAAAAAED0/MO8It-pcTNo/s400/IMAG0368.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The purpose of a highlighter is to draw attention to things. The four other colors are brilliant and obvious.The blue one can barely be seen on paper.<br />
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If anything, the blue shows up better in the above picture than it does in person.<br />
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I now understand why I couldn't find the five color set in stores. If you are going to buy them, go with the four pack. It has yellow, orange, green, and pink. All four of these colors are vibrant and easy to see. Don't spend the extra money to get the blue one. It is not worth it.MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-81726495890207809532013-02-19T00:00:00.000-06:002013-02-19T00:00:08.499-06:00Soldering IronsOne of my readers asked the question recently:<br />
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What do you use for soldering?</blockquote>
That was a topic that I hadn't thought of writing about. Today, I fix that.<br />
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Soldering is a vital skill for playing with electronics. <a href="http://www.mpja.com/830-Tie-Point-Solderless-Breadboard-with-Terminal-Strip/productinfo/19042%20TE/" target="_blank">Breadboards</a> and twisting wires together are useful for prototyping, but they will only get you so far. They leave much to be desired when you want something reliable and durable.<br />
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Soldering is one of the best ways to make electrical connections. It is easy to learn, and all it takes is a good bit of practice to become proficient.<br />
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But, I have to admit that decent tools make it much, much easier to learn.<br />
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Like many, I started off soldering with a very cheap soldering iron. It was old, underpowered, and not temperature-controlled. But, it was free.<br />
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There are several problems with cheap soldering irons. If it is a low-wattage model, it will take a while to get up to temperature. Trying to solder with an iron that is too cool can actually increase the likelihood of damaging some of the more delicate and temperature sensitive electronic components. The iron is too cool to melt the solder effectively, but it is hot enough to cause harm. This is usually made worse since you will be holding it against the part you are trying (and failing) to solder for a much longer time than usual.<br />
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If it is overpowered, or if even a lower-wattage one is left on for too long without using it, it will get too hot. This will make it more likely to damage things as well. Using an iron that is too hot has caused me to lift the traces off of a circuit board more times than I would like to admit.<br />
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That is what I started with. I currently own three different soldering irons:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A5vFra1OwrU/URnAYV3pxuI/AAAAAAAAEFA/peDcMZCMJcc/s1600/w60p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A5vFra1OwrU/URnAYV3pxuI/AAAAAAAAEFA/peDcMZCMJcc/s1600/w60p.jpg" /></a></div>
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My workhorse is a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Weller-W60P-60Watts-Controlled-Soldering/dp/B0006OBF0Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360639434&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+w60p" target="_blank">Weller W60P</a> purchased from <a href="http://www.altex.com/" target="_blank">Altex</a> for about $70. (As a side note, Altex is one of my favorite stores. It is one of the few remaining electronics stores that still sells soldering tools and equipment. However, they no longer carry this model.)<br />
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The W60P is 60 watts, so it has plenty of power and heats up in about a minute. It has a temperature-controlled tip, so it never gets too hot. I have never damaged a circuit board using this iron. It is a joy to use.<br />
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The only problem with the W60P is that the temperature-controlled tip doesn't get hot enough for some of the higher temperature solders used in some electronics. It is not adjustable without replacing the tip. This is why I have a cheap backup for when I need something hotter.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4tQ-Jk41aPw/URnAYnQ87II/AAAAAAAAEFI/GP4FQ-hLKVo/s1600/craftsman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4tQ-Jk41aPw/URnAYnQ87II/AAAAAAAAEFI/GP4FQ-hLKVo/s1600/craftsman.jpg" /></a></div>
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My high-temperature backup is a <a href="http://www.sears.com/craftsman-soldering-iron-45-watt/p-00954042000P" target="_blank">Craftsman model 113.540420</a>. This cost about $12. It is 45 watts and without temperature control. It gets more than hot enough to work with high temperature solders.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aOANnvFrn3I/URnAYscZyRI/AAAAAAAAEFE/KxhGkQqTZLs/s1600/070042191325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="194" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aOANnvFrn3I/URnAYscZyRI/AAAAAAAAEFE/KxhGkQqTZLs/s320/070042191325.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I have the third soldering iron for portability. Sometimes it is terribly inconvenient to be tied to an electrical outlet. For those situations I have a butane-powered <a href="http://www.lowes.com/pd_246066-13877-19132_0__?productId=3512337&Ntt=burnzamatic&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dburnzamatic&facetInfo=" target="_blank">BernzOmatic Soldering Torch purchased from Lowes</a>. It cost about $20. It can get very, very hot. It is suited more for soldering wires than for delicate work. It is incredibly convenient to have around. I use it mostly for working on my car, since I don't have the luxury of a garage or outdoor outlets at my apartment. The hot knife tip is also useful for cutting nylon rope.<br />
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Since it doesn't have a built in igniter, I keep a butane lighter stored with it.<br />
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That is my fleet of soldering irons. Note that the cord to the W60P is not in the best shape. It turns out that using something that gets over 700F near a cord that melts around 320F can be problematic at times.<br />
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This is why it is important to have a proper stand. In addition to avoiding melted cords, the stand also prevents the soldering iron from rolling off the table. Since things like laps, legs, and feet are typically below the edge of a table, and soldiering irons are incredibly hot, the importance of a stand cannot be overstated.<br />
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Don't forget to dampen the sponge for periodically cleaning the oxidized solder from the tip of the hot iron.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--LpOWHeT4Jw/URnATs03_xI/AAAAAAAAEEc/v4FAwVy1alA/s1600/IMAG0375.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="204" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--LpOWHeT4Jw/URnATs03_xI/AAAAAAAAEEc/v4FAwVy1alA/s320/IMAG0375.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is another useful and inexpensive tool to have around. Everyone needs <a href="http://www.altex.com/Philmore-Helping-Hand-Double-Clip-Holder-w-Magnifier-S393-P139803.aspx" target="_blank">a helping hand</a> every once in a while. It takes one hand to hold the soldering iron and a second to hold and apply the solder. That doesn't leave many hands to hold the work. Most of the time it is ok setting the work on a table. However, sometimes things need to be positioned or held more precisely.<br />
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There is one other thing that is required for making a good solder joint: good solder. I prefer small diameter solder 0.025" or so. It should be rosin core for electrical work. Never use acid core solder. Acid core solder is only for plumbing or structural applications.<br />
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60/40 lead/tin solder is good. 63/37 lead/tin solder is better. The 63% lead and 37% tin alloy is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eutectic_system" target="_blank">eutectic mixture</a> of these metals. This means that there is a single melting point instead of a melting point range. For any other proportion of lead and tin, one of the two metals starts solidifying first and then the other. If the work is disturbed while the solder is partially solidified, you get a poor connection. Using the eutectic alloy reduces the chances of this happening.<br />
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Also, this is a good time to note that you are playing with lead. It is not the friendliest heavy metal out there. Always work outdoors or with proper ventilation. Wash your hands. Eat elsewhere.<br />
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When soldering, you will often have the need to de-solder something. My favorite tool for this is solder wick. This is a fine braided copper wire saturated with rosin flux. If this is placed over a solder joint and then heated with an iron, it wicks up the solder and removes it from the joint. This is surprisingly clean and easy to do.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZX2XgySosM/URnAToJyerI/AAAAAAAAEEk/eWLV0mJyb08/s1600/IMAG0377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="77" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZX2XgySosM/URnAToJyerI/AAAAAAAAEEk/eWLV0mJyb08/s400/IMAG0377.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The other option for removing solder from a circuit board is a solder sucker. It is a spring loaded plunger with a Teflon tip that can withstand high temperatures. You compress the plunger until it clicks in place. Then you melt the solder joint, quickly place the tip of the solder sucker into the molten solder, and press the release button on the side. This releases the plunger and the spring pushes it out causing a rapid vacuum action. This sucks the solder right out of the joint... in theory. I haven't had the best luck with this. Sometimes it works for me, sometimes it doesn't. The tip tends to clog with hardened solder and requires occasional cleaning. I tend to prefer the solder wick.<br />
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That sums up my arsenal of soldering equipment. Every tool is not necessary, but each has its uses. This is probably a much longer answer than that reader expected from such a simple question, but it turns out that I had quite a bit to say about it.<br />
<br />MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-80987558342032699062013-02-12T00:00:00.000-06:002013-02-12T00:00:00.069-06:00FrånkenLämp UpdateIt has been over two months since <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2012/11/screwpop-review.html" target="_blank">I committed to posting updates at least every other week</a>.<br />
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This has been working rather well for me. It's about time that I updated the banner on the site to reflect this fact. I try to stay a post or two ahead, and I have been occasionally inserting smaller updates on the off-weeks.<br />
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This is one of those smaller updates. It is a follow up to the two-part FrånkenLämp story.<br />
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<a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2013/01/frankenlamp-part-i.html" target="_blank">Part I</a> inspired this comment:<br />
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...You'll laugh, you'll cry, you'll wish it was already Tuesday after next to read part two of the FrånkenLämp adventure. Critics are calling it "the most thrilling quest for accent lighting of our age."</blockquote>
And <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2013/01/frankenlamp-part-ii.html" target="_blank">the conclusion</a> inspired this one:<br />
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It's here! The thrilling conclusion to the FrånkenLämp saga. Critics are heralding it as: "Poignant. An accent lighting adventure to end all accent lighting adventures. A coming-of-age lamp tale that is both riveting and thought-provoking."</blockquote>
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Both comments were from the person for whom the lamp was being constructed... So she may have been slightly biased...<br />
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I am happy to say that she is very happy with it (if you couldn't tell by the comments above). Here is an artfully staged action shot of FrånkenLämp in its new home:<br />
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MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-44137240076129047152013-02-05T02:00:00.000-06:002013-02-05T02:00:15.056-06:00Useful Power SupplyI enjoy playing around with electronics. One thing that most, if not all, electronics projects need is a <a href="http://www.mpja.com/power-supplies.asp" target="_blank">good power supply</a>. Some projects are more forgiving than others, but many have strict demands on things like voltages and current.<br />
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Obsolete computers tend to provide a wealth of interesting and useful pieces. For example, every computer has a power supply. Most are of a surprisingly high quality. They supply a number of set voltages, usually with the ability to supply a surprisingly high amount of current. They use standardized connectors which can also be scavenged from old computers.<br />
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Mine is rated for 28 amps at 3.3 volts, 40 amps at 5 volts, and 30 amps at twelve volts. In comparison, the typical power supply used to charge a cell phone is rated to supply only 1 amp at 5 volts.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P87q1v5dGNI/UOzb8u0xrwI/AAAAAAAAD-E/U91wY90LVDU/s1600/IMAG0300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="327" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P87q1v5dGNI/UOzb8u0xrwI/AAAAAAAAD-E/U91wY90LVDU/s400/IMAG0300.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Many electronic circuits do not require heaps of current. But that is the beauty of the thing. A circuit will only pull as much current as it needs, and it is convenient to have the excess current available when it is needed. Like when trying to power ridiculously large stepper motors... but that is hopefully the subject of a future post. For now we focus on the power supply.<br />
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A computer power supply can be much more cumbersome than is desired for use on an electronics bench. By my count, there are typically somewhere around 50 individual wires sprouting out of the side. More modern versions <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX#ATX_power_supply_revisions" target="_blank">(ATX)</a> don't even have a power button. They will not turn on unless connected to a computer's motherboard. Conveniently, these limitations and inconveniences can be overcome.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T3Z3okzHGIA/UOzb6hr5CJI/AAAAAAAAD94/13ECu0aiZn4/s1600/800px-Power_Supply_ATX-450PNF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T3Z3okzHGIA/UOzb6hr5CJI/AAAAAAAAD94/13ECu0aiZn4/s400/800px-Power_Supply_ATX-450PNF.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Lets start with turning it on.<br />
There is a <a href="http://pinouts.ru/Power/atxpower_pinout.shtml" target="_blank">20 pin</a> or <a href="http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml" target="_blank">24 pin</a> connector on the power supply. This is how it connects to the motherboard on a computer. One of the wires going to this connector is green. If you connect this wire to ground, the power supply turns on. When you disconnect it, it turns off.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DAtq-0q5_QE/UOzb6rFNduI/AAAAAAAAD9w/3NgmhX2L--g/s1600/ATX_PS_ATX_connector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DAtq-0q5_QE/UOzb6rFNduI/AAAAAAAAD9w/3NgmhX2L--g/s320/ATX_PS_ATX_connector.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
With this knowledge, a switch can be added to turn the power supply on or off. Or, the green wire can be soldered to ground, and the power supply will turn on whenever it is plugged in.<br />
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Next, let's get rid of most of those unnecessary wires.<br />
For my purposes, I only left a few of the 4-pin connectors in place. This gives me access to 12 volt (yellow) and 5 volt (red) power. I also left one of the 6 pin connectors in case I needed 3.3 volt (orange) power. With the power supply unplugged, I opened up the case and removed the main circuit board. I then cut off or un-soldered the unneeded wires.<br />
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In the picture below, you can see several of the ground wires (black) cut off almost flush with the circuit board. (Above the leftmost corner of the fan, next to the mounting screw.)<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yrPHV3fNaDc/UOzfXkQzcoI/AAAAAAAAD-8/fv2I7RZw30Y/s1600/IMAG0308-001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yrPHV3fNaDc/UOzfXkQzcoI/AAAAAAAAD-8/fv2I7RZw30Y/s400/IMAG0308-001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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An important detail is that there are three feedback wires on the 20 or 24 pin connector. These are smaller diameter wires that connect to the same pins as three of the standard diameter ones. There is one for each of the three main voltages. These must remain connected to their respective supply voltage for the power supply to continue to function. You can see below where I shortened these wires so they would fit inside the case and soldered them to the appropriate supply wires. You can also see some red and orange wires that could not be cut close to the circuit board. These were left longer and the cut ends were insulated with heat-shrink.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QDNqj6-FajI/UOzfXg2Yw3I/AAAAAAAAD-4/p9n59c3XBOw/s1600/IMAG0309-001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="336" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QDNqj6-FajI/UOzfXg2Yw3I/AAAAAAAAD-4/p9n59c3XBOw/s400/IMAG0309-001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The last step I performed was to add some additional connectors.<br />
When prototyping, it is often convenient to be able to supply power to the bare end of a wire. I had the following set of connectors that I rescued from some broken speakers. When you push on the lever, you can insert the end of a wire. When you release, it is held tight. A standard 4-pin female connector was added so that it could easily be plugged in to the power supply. Below are top and bottom views.<br />
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I then attached the connectors to the top of the power supply with some <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2011/12/sticky-solution.html" target="_blank">double-sided foam tape.</a><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9h2HwxVLZEg/UOzb70AuWiI/AAAAAAAAD-A/CSkgtXopFss/s1600/IMAG0295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9h2HwxVLZEg/UOzb70AuWiI/AAAAAAAAD-A/CSkgtXopFss/s640/IMAG0295.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G0v0-LvnFqs/UOzb8l_WTWI/AAAAAAAAD-I/Dc6SBqMl6-U/s1600/IMAG0296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="460" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G0v0-LvnFqs/UOzb8l_WTWI/AAAAAAAAD-I/Dc6SBqMl6-U/s640/IMAG0296.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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You might note the comment written in Sharpie on the top of the power supply. When using old computer power supplies there are two weak points. One of them is the cooling fan or fans. The fans ran whenever the computer was on, and as a consequence they can be dusty, worn, and noisy. If the fan fails, there is the danger of overheating the power supply. To prevent this, I placed a drop of fresh oil on the fan bearings when I had everything disassembled. This should help preserve them and allow them to continue to cool the power supply. </div>
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The second weak point in some power supplies are the electrolytic capacitors. Due to poor manufacturing, there are many capacitors that fail before they should. Before going through all this trouble, a check should be made that the top of the capacitors in the power supply are not <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague" target="_blank">bulged, domed, or leaking</a>. The top should be perfectly flat. </div>
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There are many other how-to articles on the web that discuss re-purposing a computer power supply. The power supply can be modified in a number of ways, depending on your needs. <a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply" target="_blank">This is one good example.</a> The author gives a brilliant tip on modifying the fans to run on lower voltages to reduce noise. This is a great idea if you don't plan on using too much current and dislike listening to the whir of a loud fan.MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-63819503207934898492013-01-22T02:00:00.000-06:002013-01-22T02:00:02.284-06:00FrånkenLämp Part II<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When we last saw this project, <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2013/01/frankenlamp-part-i.html" target="_blank">everything was disassembled.</a> Now we are going to put FrånkenLämp together.</div>
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The metal stalks from TIVED have a slightly larger diameter than the holes in the perforated plate of STRANNE. This required careful drilling of the holes to avoid damaging the densely packed wires. Once the holes were large enough, the three metal stalks were inserted. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e4aqDzRMheU/UOuOeYe7DcI/AAAAAAAAD8M/RheQWNDgGME/s1600/IMAG0237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="440" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e4aqDzRMheU/UOuOeYe7DcI/AAAAAAAAD8M/RheQWNDgGME/s640/IMAG0237.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Tie wraps were used to hold the three metal stalks in place. One was snaked around them in the space between the two perforated plates. This was tightened, pulling them together. A second was used just below the bottom perforated plate, holding the ends together and locking them in place. You can see the cut ends of the two tie wraps in the picture above.<br />
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Since the ends of the metal stalks extend further, a large hole was drilled in the white plastic cover. This is what it looks like with the modified cover back in place. I didn't quite get the hole centered, luckily it was big enough that everything still fit.<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f02_bmHlmPg/UOuOe_krulI/AAAAAAAAD8Q/yk8SX2RR7Oo/s1600/IMAG0238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f02_bmHlmPg/UOuOe_krulI/AAAAAAAAD8Q/yk8SX2RR7Oo/s640/IMAG0238.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Here you can see what the combined bundle of lights looks like. I was very pleased with how things were coming together.<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JEt9HZ54Y6E/UOuOfWZVvHI/AAAAAAAAD8Y/0e1kLsjGb_c/s1600/IMAG0241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="348" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JEt9HZ54Y6E/UOuOfWZVvHI/AAAAAAAAD8Y/0e1kLsjGb_c/s640/IMAG0241.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Now, I just needed to power the thing. Since there were two different types of LED bulbs, each requiring a different voltage, I used both power supplies that came with the two lamps. At this point, I made some modifications that weren't completely necessary. I could have mounted a short power strip inside the lamp or had two separate wires coming out of the base to be plugged in. However, I wanted everything controlled by a single switch, and I didn't want any internal electrical connections that could come loose when the lamp was moved.<br />
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So, I opened up each of the power supplies and made soldered connections. This is the first one taken apart. On the right half of the case are the two contacts that attach to the prongs of the plug hidden beneath. The connector at the bottom center is the DC supply for the LEDs.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rNXhVd--2L4/UOuOeLFT29I/AAAAAAAAD8U/twGitnWg4-k/s1600/IMAG0164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="378" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rNXhVd--2L4/UOuOeLFT29I/AAAAAAAAD8U/twGitnWg4-k/s640/IMAG0164.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
This is what it looked like after I soldered permanent connections to the circuit board. The two tie wraps serve as a strain relief, since they are too large to fit through the hole in the plastic case. This prevents damage to the soldered connections if the wires are pulled.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dqPYuFNDZ2E/UOuOePSTo-I/AAAAAAAAD8I/fGxrbcukPa4/s1600/IMAG0232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="364" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dqPYuFNDZ2E/UOuOePSTo-I/AAAAAAAAD8I/fGxrbcukPa4/s640/IMAG0232.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I did the same thing to the second lamp's power supply, and closed them up with some Gorailla Tape (think Duct Tape, but better) and super glue. I wired the three LED bulbs from the TIVED back together in series and covered everything with more heat-shrink tubing. Below you can see the two power supplies, one for each type of bulb. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xru0N2FfvIA/UOuOft8FkKI/AAAAAAAAD8c/J6s95k3Jo7I/s1600/IMAG0243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xru0N2FfvIA/UOuOft8FkKI/AAAAAAAAD8c/J6s95k3Jo7I/s640/IMAG0243.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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This is the layout of how I mounted things inside the lamp. You can see that there is plenty of room for everything. At the bottom of the picture, you can see the switch built in to the power cord. With the original Ikea design, this would only see low voltage DC power. However, it is clearly marked that it is rated for 120 volts AC and (if I remember correctly) three amps. This is more than sufficient to power both lamps.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7GfbHulJ7ro/UOuOgfuc6PI/AAAAAAAAD8g/2JbfQJmH6KE/s1600/IMAG0253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7GfbHulJ7ro/UOuOgfuc6PI/AAAAAAAAD8g/2JbfQJmH6KE/s640/IMAG0253.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A quick test shows everything in working order and a good amount of light.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_4LV6T-Uv3E/UOuOgH4fAQI/AAAAAAAAD8k/x6AeJGWuDU8/s1600/IMAG0247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_4LV6T-Uv3E/UOuOgH4fAQI/AAAAAAAAD8k/x6AeJGWuDU8/s640/IMAG0247.jpg" width="518" /></a></div>
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With everything working, I used some <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2011/12/sticky-solution.html" target="_blank">double-sided foam tape</a> to mount the two power supplies inside the lamp.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D8i86Yrv2n4/UOuOhOz2IJI/AAAAAAAAD8o/c4UQsM0YBZA/s1600/IMAG0255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D8i86Yrv2n4/UOuOhOz2IJI/AAAAAAAAD8o/c4UQsM0YBZA/s640/IMAG0255.jpg" width="502" /></a></div>
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Then I attached the base... and tried it out for real.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6CRt2ymcfOI/UOuTNCsA45I/AAAAAAAAD9c/3-E7gT0o-P4/s1600/IMAG0259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6CRt2ymcfOI/UOuTNCsA45I/AAAAAAAAD9c/3-E7gT0o-P4/s640/IMAG0259.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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I am extremely happy with the final results. It has the nice soft area lighting from the STRANNE combined with an abundance of usable light from the TIVED. It seems rather perfect, and it is the only one of its kind. </div>
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MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-14866413195914757332013-01-08T02:00:00.000-06:002013-02-04T17:24:25.789-06:00FrånkenLämp Part II was recently introduced to the furniture store known as Ikea. It is a Swedish company, and they have fun with their product names. It is an enjoyable store to wander through, even if you are not looking to buy anything. They have a cafe that serves tasty food, including Swedish meatballs. Also, they have reasonably priced, decent furniture.<br />
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In one such afternoon of wandering through the lighting section, a rather attractive lamp was discovered. It was named <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30173674/" target="_blank">STRANNE</a> and cost about $50.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bajwmtNuPuk/UOt_Y38X3UI/AAAAAAAAD7A/iD9GGmtYhN4/s1600/stranne-led-table-lamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bajwmtNuPuk/UOt_Y38X3UI/AAAAAAAAD7A/iD9GGmtYhN4/s1600/stranne-led-table-lamp.jpg" /></a></div>
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It consists of 36 flexible stalks, each tipped with an LED bulb. The only drawback is that it doesn't produce very much light, probably not enough light to read by. This was disappointing. </div>
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Further wandering on a different afternoon uncovered another interesting lamp. This one was named <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10180977/" target="_blank">TIVED</a> and cost about $70.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-usKl4V-spZg/UOt_Y943WII/AAAAAAAAD68/qsezSDQVW1k/s1600/tived-led-table-lamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-usKl4V-spZg/UOt_Y943WII/AAAAAAAAD68/qsezSDQVW1k/s1600/tived-led-table-lamp.jpg" /></a></div>
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It consists of five flexible metal stalks, each with a much brighter LED bulb. It produced plenty of usable light. The only drawback was that it is ugly and boring in comparison. The need for a lamp remained unfilled. </div>
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Sometime later, inspiration struck. The idea was conceived to combine the two lamps, maintaining the best features of each. Now, you might be thinking that $120 is a lot of money to spend on a lamp, especially a lamp that involves dismantling what was just purchased, voiding all warranties. For a normal lamp, you would be right. But, it is a small price to pay in the quest for the perfect lamp. Plus, it became a fun project and an excuse to take things apart. Count me in!</div>
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Fair warning: this subject is going to be divided into two separate posts. This first will detail the disassembling of STRANNE and TIVED. The second will cover the combination into FrånkenLämp. </div>
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Let us start with STRANNE. </div>
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It is shipped in three pieces. The top portion, middle, and base. This allows it to fit in a surprisingly small package. Here is a picture of the top portion. It contains all the electrical parts. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LU-TAbOOJiA/UOt_XJ4qhwI/AAAAAAAAD6c/WaVicoKs99g/s1600/IMAG0150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LU-TAbOOJiA/UOt_XJ4qhwI/AAAAAAAAD6c/WaVicoKs99g/s640/IMAG0150.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Removing the four screws allows the white cover to come off and reveals the ends of the bulb stalks mounted in two perforated plates. It also gives access to the wiring that goes to each of the bulbs. Each bulb is wired in parallel. Crimp connectors join all the individual bulb wires together and connect to the positive and negative wires from the power supply. Wired this way, each bulb runs off of 6 volts from the 6 volt power supply. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pMg_lBJmiMY/UOt_XAo-yHI/AAAAAAAAD6s/c2sQqam7jO4/s1600/IMAG0152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="432" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pMg_lBJmiMY/UOt_XAo-yHI/AAAAAAAAD6s/c2sQqam7jO4/s640/IMAG0152.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Since everything is in parallel, any number of the bulbs can be removed without affecting the others. For my purposes, I removed three of the bulbs to make way for brighter ones from the TIVED. I chose to place them in the center so that they would not take away from the aesthetics of the lamp. The remaining ends of the wires that were cut to remove the bulbs were covered by heat-shrink tubing to insulate them. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-29vmEPHXjq0/UOt_YqTLvYI/AAAAAAAAD64/ILLmyk5J0B0/s1600/IMAG0171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-29vmEPHXjq0/UOt_YqTLvYI/AAAAAAAAD64/ILLmyk5J0B0/s640/IMAG0171.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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Here is a close-up view of one of the stalks that was removed. There is a flexible plastic tube on the outside with the wiring running down the middle. The two electrical wires going to the LED bulb are cut short. The long wire, with a hook bent at the end is a stiffer wire. This exists so that when you bend the stalk, it stays where you moved it. This allows you to arrange the lamp in a pleasing manner. The plastic plug at the end is what holds the stalk in place in its designated hole. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BecuHlutvOM/UOt_XeynOPI/AAAAAAAAD6g/x_qMi5k-F7E/s1600/IMAG0156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BecuHlutvOM/UOt_XeynOPI/AAAAAAAAD6g/x_qMi5k-F7E/s640/IMAG0156.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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That is the extent of the disassembly of STRANNE. Let us move on to TIVED. </div>
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Three screws hold the plastic cover in place over the base of the lamp. Removing them and the cover reveals the following. There are five bulbs and one resistor. They are wired as two parallel sets. One set has three bulbs in series. The other has two bulbs and the resistor in series. Arranged this way, each bulb runs on about four volts from the 12 volt power supply. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5tPYkVN-0F8/UOt_XFGfEhI/AAAAAAAAD6Y/mEPLvQf7IwU/s1600/IMAG0149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5tPYkVN-0F8/UOt_XFGfEhI/AAAAAAAAD6Y/mEPLvQf7IwU/s640/IMAG0149.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Because of this arrangement, the choices for reusing the bulbs were limited to using 2, 3, or 5. (The set with the resistor, the set with three bulbs, or both sets together.) Using all five seemed like too much, and just two seemed like not enough. The executive decision was made to use three. Three is not as symmetrical as might be desired, but since they would be buried in the middle of the cluster of bulbs, it was deemed to be an acceptable number.<br />
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The metal stalks on this lamp are longer than the ones on the STRANNE, as can be seen below.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MUtjZYmhXKQ/UOuL5YEyDoI/AAAAAAAAD70/DUT4Zy3t84g/s1600/IMAG0160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MUtjZYmhXKQ/UOuL5YEyDoI/AAAAAAAAD70/DUT4Zy3t84g/s640/IMAG0160.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The ends of the metal stalks are threaded and formed so that they can be attached to the base. A tubing cutter was used to shorten them to the correct length. This also gave a smooth piece that would more easily fit through the holes in the perforated plates of the STRANNE.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--MDy7FoXFr0/UOt_XjdAkhI/AAAAAAAAD6k/NPe1-69TDME/s1600/IMAG0168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="310" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--MDy7FoXFr0/UOt_XjdAkhI/AAAAAAAAD6k/NPe1-69TDME/s640/IMAG0168.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Care was taken not to damage the wires running through the center of the stalks. Two layers of heat-shrink tubing were placed on the wires to protect them from the sharp edge left behind by the tubing cutter.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Jy-tF1h9Vs/UOt_YNkyyNI/AAAAAAAAD6o/oBspehtFOiI/s1600/IMAG0169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Jy-tF1h9Vs/UOt_YNkyyNI/AAAAAAAAD6o/oBspehtFOiI/s640/IMAG0169.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the two different bulbs. On the right is one of the stalks remove from the STRANNE. On the left is one of three metal stalks from the TIVED that has been cut to length.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tAbB_rNZelQ/UOt_YpBW2UI/AAAAAAAAD6w/cPvpKeyaq2M/s1600/IMAG0170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tAbB_rNZelQ/UOt_YpBW2UI/AAAAAAAAD6w/cPvpKeyaq2M/s640/IMAG0170.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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This is where our story pauses for the moment. <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2013/01/frankenlamp-part-ii.html" target="_blank">Tune in next time for the reassembly.</a><br />
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MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7616794691872110777.post-25195852369841543902012-12-25T02:00:00.000-06:002012-12-25T02:00:00.702-06:00Managing PodcastsI use iTunes to manage my podcasts. It works well, but it is vastly improved with the use of live-updating smart playlists. <br />
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What pushed me into figuring this out was using my iPod with <a href="http://magicpecanslinky.blogspot.com/2011/12/i-bought-new-radio-for-my-car.html" target="_blank">my car radio</a>. There was no way to tell which podcasts had already been listened to. To make it worse, the radio only displays part of the podcast title at a time, so it was difficult to tell which episode was which.<br />
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I set up a playlist for each of the podcasts I subscribe to which only includes episodes that have not been played. That is what makes it "smart."<br />
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As soon as an episode is played, it is removed from the playlist. This happens on the iPod automatically, without having to plug it into a computer or sync with iTunes. That is the beauty of live updating.<br />
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Here is how to do it:<br />
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First, create a new smart playlist by clicking on the File menu and New Smart Playlist... (Or Ctrl+Alt+N)<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-INIEHU_E4v0/UKrQTCm9ZYI/AAAAAAAAD5Q/7ZbtD3M34Ng/s1600/Smart+Playlist.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="444" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-INIEHU_E4v0/UKrQTCm9ZYI/AAAAAAAAD5Q/7ZbtD3M34Ng/s640/Smart+Playlist.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, set up the two following rules and make sure that "Live <u>u</u>pdating" is checked.<br /><br />
The first rule is easy, and will be the same for every podcast you want to set up this way: <br />
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<li>Plays is 0</li>
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The second rule needs to be something that will filter all the podcast episodes out of your entire music and podcast library. The secret I discovered to make this work with live updating on the iPod, is to only include data in the rules that exists on the iPod itself. You would think that Apple could disable the "Live Updating" checkbox if you choose data fields that won't work with live updating, but you would be wrong, apparently. Choosing one of the following has worked well for me:<br /><ul>
<li>Artist contains [Artist Name]</li>
<li>Album contains [Album Name]</li>
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It should look like this. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7BstYviei84/UKrQSxNT2qI/AAAAAAAAD5I/kc2_KpQbi9A/s1600/Smart+Playlist+Details.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7BstYviei84/UKrQSxNT2qI/AAAAAAAAD5I/kc2_KpQbi9A/s640/Smart+Playlist+Details.png" width="640" /></a><br />
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Note that this requires the artist name to be identical for all episodes of the podcast and unique from the artists of other podcasts or music. This would not work for the two NPR podcasts seen below. Both have NPR as the artist name.<br />
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In this case, I used the album name.<br />
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Using the new playlists is simple. Just go to "Playlists" on your iPod instead of "Podcasts" when you want to listen. It will show only the new episodes, and they will disappear like magic once they have been listened to. Smart, live-updating magic.MagicPecanSlinkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11978865459317866331noreply@blogger.com1