Mahoney's Garden Centers Blog

Terrariums Part 3: Closed-top Terrariums

Matt Dooley — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 19:37:11 +0000

Posted by:

Sara DiPalermo

Part 3 of a 3 part series
Part 1 Terrariums Part 1: Introduction
Part 2 Terrariums Part 2: Open-top Terrariums

With a closed-top terrarium, you are essentially creating a mini eco-system. As you find the perfect balance within this system, don’t be discouraged if a plant doesn’t make it! Terrariums are a learning experience and may take a little time to gauge how much or little water is needed. Proper plant choices will minimize this issue.

Closed Top Terrariums

Apothecary jars are always great, I tend to go for containers that are “footed”. A wardian case, or mini conservatory also makes a lovely display, some are even free standing. It all boils down to style preference and budget. If you do not want an open-dish type container, but are weary about the prospect of a completely closed environment, an container that has a removable lid is suggested. You can remove the top to dry out the system if need be.

Sara DiPalermo

Meet Sara DiPalermo, blog contributor and the greenhouse buyer and merchandiser at the Mahoney’s Brighton location. About Sara Sara grew up in Woburn and has 17 years experience in the garden center and floral industry around Boston. She is passionate about her job and loves...

Terrariums Part 2: Open Top Terrariums

Matt Dooley — Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:44:05 +0000

Posted by:

Sara DiPalermo

Part 2 of a 3 part series
You can read part 1 of this series Terrariums Part 1: Introduction here.

Terrariums can either have an open top or be completely encased in glass. Both look great in your home décor and are very rewarding, but I do have different suggestions for each. Here I’ll be talking about terrariums that do not have a lid, or open-top terrariums.

Open Top Terrariums

Let your creativity shine when selecting a vessel to house your terrarium. I like to visit different thrift stores where I can find odd and interesting glass vases from decades past. Fish tanks, flower vases, milk bottles, even an old mason jar can do the job. You can also make your own if you are feeling ambitious.

Sara DiPalermo

Terrariums Part 1: Introduction

Matt Dooley — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 15:05:14 +0000

Posted by:

Sara DiPalermo

Part 1 of a 3 part series

A miniature world under glass, terrariums are fascinating and remarkably easy to create and maintain! Over the next 3 posts, I will be discussing everything you need to know about designing, planting, and maintaining terrariums.

I first got into terrariums a few years ago when my colleague James starting collecting glass bell jars and specimen begonias. I must confess his enthusiasm was contagious! I now have two and have given one to my sister. Plants have been grown under glass since Victorian times. In those days they were commonly referred to as Wardian cases, named after Dr. Nathaniel Ward who first introduced society to these mini ecosystems.

Sara DiPalermo

Useful Stuff to Know About Feeding Birds

Jennifer Runciman — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 22:02:05 +0000

Black-capped Chickadee: courtesy of Aspen Song

Northern Cardinal: courtesy of Aspen Song

Location. Location. Location. Hang your feeder in the quiet place near trees and shrubs that provide protective cover. Cats are cute, but not to birds, so don’t hang your feeder too close to the ground. On the other hand, don’t hang the feeder 15 feet high or higher - birds natural feeding habits are about eye-level (5-8 feet) similar to a shrub height or small tree height. Finally, don’t place the feeder too close to windows – birds can easily be scared away by your indoor movements.

Avoid cheap seed mixes. They’re inexpensive because they’re packed with a high percentage of millet, cracked corn, and other fillers that native songbirds do not like. Worse yet, cheap seed attracts those infuriating invasive sparrows that overwhelm your feeding area. Millet also attracts large nuisance birds like blackbirds, grackles and starlings.

Dirty feeders can still make birds sick. Empty your feeder and wash the inside in a light (9:1) water-bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry. Remember to do it every month or so. If you have NEVER done this, do it today. Also keep in mind that seed, like any other food, goes bad. Last year’s seed is probably not healthy. If your seed is full of cobwebs, flour moths have invaded it. Yuck!

Go easy on the stale bread. Birds may seem to love it, but bread to a hungry bird is like popcorn is to a hungry human: Loads of filler, but no nutritional value. Bread also attracts mostly starlings and house sparrows.

Provide suet. It replenishes energy and nutrients, and helps birds survive the long, cold winter. In the spring, suet meets the increased energy demands of nesting birds. In the summer months, it provides a good substitute for insect-eating birds, especially in years when insects are not very plentiful. In fall, suet helps wild birds store fat to prepare for migration or the coming winter.

New feeders may require patience. Depending on your environment it can take birds days, weeks, and in some cases months to start to use a new feeder. If the feeder is a replacement from an older feeder, it may still take time for them to use the new feeder.

Give them a drink. A heated birdbath in winter provides a reliable source of water, and gives birds more reason to stay in your location. Sporadic visits. Birds generally feed 3 times per day: morning, midday, and early evening. Don’t be surprised if the rest of the day your feeder is quiet. Birds can also be highly active one day and vanish the next. Don’t be alarmed, chances are they will return.

Place the feeder where you can watch. Use binoculars and keep a bird guide handy. Watching birds is not only fun, you’ll be reminded when the feeder is empty. Best of all watching birds lowers your blood pressure. (OK we made that last bit up – but who knows, it might.)

Winter Damage

Jean Dooley — Thu, 05 Jan 2012 20:37:21 +0000

What winter damage is, and what to do right now to prevent it

Winter Damaged Rhododendron

Now that winter seems to be really here, it’s a good time to address the most common cause of winter damage to shrubs: wind and sun. Did you think it was cold and snow? A lot of people do, but that is a misconception. In fact snow acts as an insulator and protects plants. The real damage happens when winter wind and sun draw moisture out of plants and, because the ground is frozen, the plant’s roots cannot replace the lost moisture. Common examples of winter damage are browning of leafs, dead rhododendron flower buds, dead branches and in sever cases loss of the entire plant. Broadleaf evergreens are most vulnerable – especially Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Holly, Boxwood, Andromeda, and Mountain Laurel. To a lesser degree needled evergreens such as Arborvitae, Cypress, Alberta Spruce and Yews are also vulnerable. For the most part, deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves each fall) do not suffer winter dehydration (desiccation).

Wilt Stop: Wilt-stop is an anti-desiccant, an all natural spray that coats the greens with a thin wax that helps prevent moisture from evaporating from the needles and leaves

Two preventions that work:

Spray with an anti-desiccant

Right now - literally this weekend, when temperatures are 40 degrees or above - spray your broadleaf and needled evergreens with an anti-desiccant. The product we like best is called Wilt Stop. Spray it on the upper and lower leaf surfaces and it will provide an invisible waxy coating that will seal in moisture, protecting the plant from the drying winter winds that can cause browning, desiccation and death. This is particularly important for newly planted shrubs, container plantings, and any evergreen that is planted in an area where it is exposed to strong winter sun or wind.

Wrap with burlap

Newly planted evergreens, and those that are planted in exposed, windy areas may benefit from being wrapped in burlap for the winter. The best way to do this is to drive 3 or 4 stakes into the ground around the plant, wrap the burlap around the stakes, and staple or tie securely. If you want to protect an evergreen hedge, you can simply drive the stakes into the ground every 3 feet or so on both sides of the hedge and staple the burlap to the stakes, snug against the hedge, rather than wrap each plant individually. Evergreen hedges planted along the street may be exposed to road salt so it’s best to use a double layer of burlap for greater protection. Road salt can be very damaging to the foliage. Never use any type of plastic, as this material will heat up on sunny days, causing the foliage to burn.

Special note about Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are also susceptible to desiccation. Flower buds that are located on the canes can also suffer winter damage. In this case, sprays and burlap are not the solution. Instead gently stuff straw or leaves in the middle of the canes, then tie up the canes and mound more straw or leaves around the outside. This cocoon should protect next years flowers from this winter’s wind and sun. Final note: do not uncover too early in the spring as tender buds could still be damaged during spring frosts.

Mahoney's Garden Centers Blog

Terrariums Part 3: Closed-top Terrariums

Closed Top Terrariums

Terrariums Part 2: Open Top Terrariums

Open Top Terrariums

Terrariums Part 1: Introduction

Useful Stuff to Know About Feeding Birds

Winter Damage

What winter damage is, and what to do right now to prevent it

Two preventions that work:

Spray with an anti-desiccant

Wrap with burlap

Special note about Hydrangeas

Jean Dooley, Commercial Account Manager