Perhaps the most controversial restaurant review Main Line Dine has ever written was that of Christopher’s in Wayne, which posted shortly after the site launched in 2003. This review was ruthless, wasting little time calling out Christopher’s as “a terrible restaurant… [where] you won’t get a decent meal.”

There was nothing more to this review than what it was; no below-the-surface grudges existed. It was fairly based on several poor experiences, which were documented with clear examples. The most egregious concerned a dish of ravioli that was so undercooked it was crunchy, then re-served without sauce (and still crunchy, btw) after sending it back. (After posting the review, we actually got several notes from Chef/Owner Chris Todd inviting us to revisit, but it was too late. This was unforgivable stuff – not “worth another try” stuff.)

Readers, for the most part, agreed with our assessment. Friends who read it concurred wholeheartedly. Though some commenters on the site thought the review was overly harsh, they rarely offered anything other than a halfhearted defense.

So why was this review controversial? Well, it was from 2003, and remained on the site, unchanged, through 2011. As the years went by, and Christopher’s remained open — which, of course is not necessarily an indication of good food, just good business — the reviews began to change. More often, when someone left a comment about Christopher’s, it was something along the lines of “What is your problem? This place is pretty good”. My one buddy, who was perhaps the most ardent supporter of our original review, even conceded that he and his wife now go regularly and enjoy it for what it is – a casual, quick bite.

It is finally time, then, to bury the hatchet, and put Christopher’s back into the mix. When some friends were looking for a place to meet for lunch in Wayne recently, I enthusiastically suggested this we go there.

The atmosphere is great; it always has been. Some commenters have suggested that the negative review related to the fact that the room is always filled with families with children. This makes it noisy, yes, but so what? This is a “neighborhood place”, not the Four Seasons (or Hogfish, apparently). It’s probably not the best choice for a romantic, candlelit dinner, but it is a fun, bustling room that is designed quite nicely and is, of course, a great place to bring kids.

Service is decidedly casual, as it should be, but a small detail showed considerable improvement since the days of crunchy ravioli. One of our party mentioned a food allergy, and the seemingly young and potentially inexperienced server handled it as well as I’ve ever seen. “No problem,” she said right away. “Our kitchen is great with allergies. I’ll let them know right away.” It’s little touches such as this that make diners feel like they are in good hands.

Christopher’s menu remains a bit unfocused; their website even states that they offer “a little bit of everything” and “so many choices.” It’s hard to believe any restaurant can expertly execute Mexican, burgers, pizza, pasta, seafood and everything in between, but Christopher’s continued success suggests that they are managing some level of consistency.

That said, the Guinness pulled pork sandwich immediately drew my attention. Not a barbecue pulled pork (which they do also offer), which tend to be overly sweet in these types of establishments, this was pork slowly braised in dark, roasty beer. An interesting twist on a favorite, to be sure. The richness of the pork paired nicely with tangy apple slaw, as well as a spicy-sweet “cherry” mustard, and the pretzel roll was a comforting, delicious touch to finish it off. This sandwich is perhaps a bit heavy for a business lunch, but on a day off, when paired with one of the craft beers on tap (from a small but adequate list), it hit the spot.

It was just a sandwich. There are a world of other menu options to explore, which would take many, many visits to do with any completeness (even just sticking to the simple stuff, which seems wise), but it was definitely a more enjoyable experience than it was in 2004.

Perhaps Christopher’s isn’t a terrible restaurant after all.

All the comments from 2004-present are available below.

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Winter warmers, which is what us beer geeks call these winter ales, tend to be richer in flavor, higher in alcohol and generally bigger than beers we drink any other season. Weyerbacher, an Easton, PA brewer who has made a name for themselves with big, Belgian-style ales, has, somewhat surprisingly, gone in a different direction here. (I expected at least 8% abv in a Weyerbacher winter warmer, but this is only 5.6%) Instead of the big, over the top beer, they’ve come up with a roasty, malty, wonderfully smooth brew that can be enjoyed one at a time or in a session. The truth is that this is a somewhat simple beer. It’s not going to change your life. It is, however, darn delicious, which is why it is my “must buy” winter ale every season.

It starts out with aromas of molasses, vanilla and a hint of nutmeg. The taste is dominated by chocolate malts, coffee, and a bit of licorice. A hint of root beer essence (but not overwhelmingly so – I don’t even like root beer) and maybe just a hint of cherry as well round it out. Not much hops here, but some effervescent carbonation cleans off the finish. Simple, but delicious and a great “house” beer for your Winter season.

This beer doesn’t require much attention to enjoy. It just tastes great. I was going to write that if you prefer big, Belgian-style or hoppy, complex ales, this beer probably isn’t for you. But that’s not really true. Even if you love them big & bold, you can’t drink those every day. Everybody needs a “house” beer, and this is mine during the cold winter months. Give it a try!

This month, Local Cookbooks takes on Gravy Wars: South Philly Foods, Feuds & Attytudes by Lorraine Ranalli, which is a fascinating look at the South Philly gravy (aka tomato sauce) culture, describing in hilarious detail the endless debates that Lorraine’s family had (still has!) over the proper way to make gravy, and whose is best. The book, which includes at least 9 gravy recipes (with multiple variations), plus a plethora of other South Philly faves from scaloppini to pizza to biscotti, is certainly a must-have for anyone raised Italian in this area, and an entertaining read for the rest of us.

This is a different kind of cookbook. It has recipes, sure, but that’s not really the point. If your family makes gravy (or any of these other dishes), you probably don’t need a recipe. As Lorraine herself says in the introduction, “as you read this book, take the term ‘recipe’ lightly… knowing which tomatoes to use and how to season them for gravy is a combination of experience, instinct and taste, although that assertion is as much a source of controversy as the gravy itself.”

The reason I absolutely love this cookbook, however, is for the stories. Growing up in an Italian-American family – though my family was unique in its own way – these stories resonate as if Lorraine is talking about them. Non-Italians who have their own family food traditions should also find these stories fitting and nostalgic, if about different recipes. I also loved reading through the “glossary” at the end of the book, which offers the South Philly version of a word, the Italian version, and the English definition. (Example: Foomadge / Formaggio / Cheese)

Though we usually include a recipe from the book with our “local cookbooks” series, I’ve decided instead to honor the idea of Gravy Wars by including my own gravy recipe. Of course, as with all the chefs profiled in Gravy Wars, I don’t really have one. I cook it by feel, and change ingredients and spices based on what season it is and what I have on hand. But, just for this article, I wrote down what I did one recent Sunday and humbly share it with you know. I’m quite sure your grandmother’s is better, but my family sure enjoyed it over some “managott”.

Mike’s MLD Gravy

• 2 25oz cans whole peeled San Marzanos
• 1 6oz can tomato paste
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 whole star anise
• 2 whole cloves
• (calm down, they are just spices)
• 1 tsp sugar*
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tbsp dried Italian herbs
• Garlic (4-6 cloves), divided
• 1/4 cup olive oil, plus more
• Heaping handful of fresh basil

*it’s best to taste the raw tomatoes before adding sugar to judge natural sweetness. Add more or less sugar depending on what you have naturally.

Mix together the first 9 ingredients, using a potato masher to crush tomatoes
Smash & chop half the garlic and mix in to pot.
Simmer for 3-5 hours.
Remove bay leaves, anise and cloves.
Smash the remaining garlic, chop and add; also add 1/4 cup olive oil and basil (roughly ripping up as you add).
Mix together and cook for 10-15 more minutes.
Serve.

Gravy Wars: South Philly Foods, Feuds & Attytudes
by Lorraine Ranalli
Folger Ross Publications, 2009
Buy on Amazon

• Ella’s American Bistro has opened in Devon Square (Acme Shopping Center in Strafford)
• McKenzie’s Brew Pub is now open in Berwyn (where Charlie Brown’s used to be, near Barnes & Noble)
• Jake’s Wayback Burgers is open in Strafford (near the Farmers Market), and 5 Guys Wayne (in the old Acme shopping center) should be opening shortly
• So Fun! Frozen Yogurt has also opened next to 5 Guys in Wayne
• The bar at Restaurant Alba is now fully operational
• Pattymac’s in Berwyn is now EmJ’s (under new ownership), and is also serving dinner on Thu and Fri.
• Saxby’s in Paoli is closing this week.
• Flavor in Wayne closed this fall.

Yeah, we know, another holiday gift guide… but hey, maybe you’ll find an idea here that you haven’t seen before!

Food Gifts
Great for a hostess gift, or just for the person who never stops thinking about their next meal:

• A Taste of Olive offers wonderful oils and vinegars, plus other great little gourmet gift ideas.
• Sweet tooth? Laura’s Biscotti is a great local treat.
• Fresh, local cheese from Chester County farms.
• Gift Baskets from Talula’s Table (pictured)

Local Food Experiences
Instead of just handing over a gift, why not spend time with your favorite culinarian, enjoying food and drink? Consider these local purveyors of fine food experiences:

• The Wine School of Philadelphia – Enhance your love of wine, beer and/or cocktails with a fun, educational class. Gift certificates available.
• Cooking Schools – try Viking in Bryn Mawr, or Charlotte Ann Albertson, various locations.
• Philadelphia Urban Adventures – explore the Italian Market or sip local beers with “Philly on Tap.”

These are some of my favorite kitchen gadgets:

• I love to use my vertical (beer can) chicken roaster, and there are now many different varieties on the market. This one from Weber looks nice, or you might consider this little one as a stocking stuffer.
• This Cuisinart Spice & Nut Grinder is great for the chef who wants to take advantage of the fuller, richer flavor of whole spices in their food.
• Have hours of fun with The Smoking Gun!

Books
Always a safe bet!

If you’ve followed our local cookbooks feature, you already know we love Corked & Forked by Keith Wallace. The book has a lovely design and a Philly connection, so it’d make a great gift for the local food lover.

Other Cookbooks to consider:

• Gravy Wars – for the South Philly Italian (or the wannabe) in your life.
• Rustic Italian Food – Philly fave Mark Vetri’s new book!

Or, try these food-related memoirs:

• My Korean Deli – A writer tells the story of how his family purchased and ran a convenience store in Brooklyn. A fun read.
• Blood, Bones & Butter – Truthfully, this one was a bit over-hyped when it came out, but it still was an entertaining book.

Beer
People always bring a bottle of wine to a party – and there is certainly nothing wrong with that. But why not mix it up by bringing a big bottle of local beer instead? This will be especially thoughtful if you travel out of the area, yet bring a piece of your local culture. You can’t go wrong with any of these:

• Sly Fox Christmas Ale (Wegmans)
• Troegs Mad Elf (Wegmans)
• Iron Hill 15^th Anniversary Ale or Sasquatch  (Any Iron Hill location)
• Victory Dark Intrigue (Limited Availability – Try the Brewery)

Finally, for the food lover who has everything… how about this Sous Vide Oven?

Feel free to share other suggestions below…

“This smells like Christmas!” exclaimed a friend of mine who was trying this beer for the first time. Anchor Christmas Ale, from the Anchor Brewery in San Francisco (most famous for their Steam beer), is always the first beer I look for when the Christmas ales hit the shelves. Though the formula changes from year to year (and always remains a secret), it is consistently delicious and a great representation of what Christmas beers are about.

This year’s version pours a dark, reddish brown with ample head retention. The aroma features a heaping dose of pine, with notes of mulling spices, notably clove and cinnamon. Chocolatey malts coat the palate, paired with quite a bit of cherry and more of those great spices. A balanced dose of hops cleans up the finish and keeps this tasting like a beer. All in all, it is both immensely flavorful and very smooth.

This drinkability is one of the main differentiators for this beer. Many other excellent Holiday Ales, such as Tröegs’ popular Mad Elf and Belgian favorites like Delirium Nöel, are high in alcohol (8-12% ABV), so though they taste wonderful, they are definitely sipping beverages that are almost more like wines than beers. As such, if you aren’t as familiar with the Christmas style, Anchor’s version is a great starting point.

Anchor Brewing Our Special Ale (Christmas Ale)
Anchor Brewing Company, San Francisco
Style: Winter Warmer (Xmas Spiced)
ABV: 5.5%
Widely Available in the Main Line Area ($11 for a 6-pack at Wegman’s)

Photo via anchorbrewing.com

In 2010, we were lucky enough to take a dream vacation to a villa in Tuscany – a week of eating, drinking and exploring the small towns and beautiful countryside of Italy’s most famous* vacation destination. It was as great as it sounds, and of course grows in stature in my memory every day since.

Unsurprisingly, we drank a lot of wine during the trip, almost all of it Tuscan. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was the particular wine we consumed the most often, for several reasons:

1. I’d never had it before.
2. It is part of the “Big 3″ Tuscan wine zones, yet far less well known or accessible in the states than the others, Chianti and Brunello. Though I love Chianti, it is widely accessible here. Brunello is also great, but it is very expensive here, and considered best when aged at least 10 years (something we were unable to pull off during our week-long stay).
3. Our villa was about 25 minutes from the town Montepulciano (Relax, TwiHards).
4. We visited a great winery in the Montepulciano region called Le Berne.

Most importantly, I immediately fell in love with this wine. It has a great sense of place, highlighting the dark cherry fruits of Sangiovese (the base grape for all 3 Tuscan wines), but also carrying great earthy notes of leather and mushroom. In addition, it tends to be a little fuller than Chianti, with slightly less acidity and a softer mouthfeel. It has potential for medium-term aging, but is also very accessible young.

Unfortunately, living in PA, even with my new-found knowledge and love of this wine, procuring some upon our arrival home became somewhat difficult. The PA system only listed a handful, and only one was available in a nearby store. IIRC, none were available online at that time. (Now that I am hip to other online options, it is a bit easier, but still requires some extra effort.)

So, as can be imagined, I was ecstatic when I saw that the Chairman’s Selection program was bringing in a Vino Nobile this fall. Though I hadn’t tried this particular wine, it was priced insanely low at $15 (the first Vino Nobile I’d ever seen under $20 in the US – hopefully not too good to be true), and would be widely available.

Truth be told, this is not one of the finer Vino Nobiles that I have had, but it is still a great deal at $15, and thus a great way to try this particular wine if you have never had it before.

The aroma of this wine is dominated by mushroom & earth, with notes of leather and dark (almost candied) cherries. Palate shows more cherry & kirsch-like flavor, with just a bit of earth. Tannins are soft, chalky and chewy on the finish. I would decant this wine for about 15-20 minutes – it does take to a little air, but also fades rather quickly, so avoid anything longer.

Cantina del Bueno Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008
Region: Tuscany
Grape: Sangiovese (at least 70%)
PA Price: $14.99
Find it in stores

*I’m sure somebody will disagree with this comment, but it is certainly arguable that Tuscany is Italy’s most famous vacation destination. Sure, Rome (my favorite city in Italy), Amalfi Coast, and Venice also warrant consideration

The restaurant is part of a larger renovation that will remake the courtyard near St James Place, which will include a new traffic pattern, and allow for valet parking and outdoor dining.

The menu will include steaks, burgers, fried chicken, roasted chicken, salmon, and other American favorites. Entrées will top out around $26, appetizers at $12.

For more info, check out this story from the Main Line Times.

Each week (well, the weeks of the market), an email will go out Monday with the participating vendors that week. Customers can order directly from the vendors and pick up their orders anytime from 3-5pm.

Officially, the market is only for those who have pre-ordered, but I did overhear some vendors talking about how they would be bringing a limited selection of other merchandise for any “walk ins” as well.

To sign up for the email list, email marketcoordinator@eastgoshenfarmersmarket.org. Or, follow them on Facebook (newsletters are posted).