Sunrise over Chicago, Lake Michigan and Indiana

Our entire plane had to be re-ticketed on the flight back from St. Louis when the plane was grounded due to a mechanical problem. We were concerned for the delay, as we were racing East to beat the snowstorm heading toward Chicago. In the end our second re-ticketing and delay wasn’t due to the weather, it was another mechanical problem. Third plane’s the charm I guess!

Tonight was the monthly Critical Lass ride in Chicago. It wasn’t too cold and we rode a really interesting route from Ukrainian Village through West Town’s manufacturing district to Humbolt Park. Bicycling in industrial areas on the west side is fun because you happen upon unexpected factories and incredible views of the Chicago skyline through abandoned lots and industrial railroad bridges.

Superbowl Sunday was the monthly Women Who Bike Brunch, this time in the West Loop. The mimosas came with individual bottles of champagne. Contact Dotti at Lets Go Ride a Bike if you want to join our brunches or happy hours in Chicago.

Photos from past rides are in the gallery.

Thiruvananthapuram, India | 30 January, 2007 | $9.04

I’m not sure why this hotel was so expensive, perhaps because Thiruvananthapuram is the capital of Kerala? The town has some nice colonial architecture and grand universities to wander around. With a whole day to wander around I ran errands (like buying soap) and getting passport photos taken. After sitting for the photos I watched am employee adjust them in Photoshop. As a designer I had a really hard time watching someone butcher my photograph. For some reason he decided to make my hair black and even started to darken my eyebrows before I was able to stop him.

Madurai, India | 28 January, 2007 | $4.52

Madurai was fascinating! This was my first real taste of the chaos and jumbled, statue-covered temples of Tamil Nadu. After seven hours on the bus I was ready to get a look at the temple. Meenakshi Sundareswar Temple is like nothing I had ever seen before. In retrospect, I wish I had a map of the temple to consult because I just followed the crowd through hallways, courtyards and into small shrine-filled rooms and probably missed a lot of amazing things.

At one point an elderly woman approached me, dipped her finger into a stone statue and pressed a dark red paste onto my forehead. I continued to acquire markings and bindis on my forehead from passing worshipers throughout the day. Every corner I turned I saw something amazing—women painting colorful patterns on the floor, a long hallway of countless statues, a wedding party picnicking in the courtyard, an elephant tapping people on the head in exchange for one rupee, women in colorful saris flowing past stalls of religious memorabilia… I even saw a fortune telling bird! This temple was truly a magical place.

The following evening I got on a night train to Thiruvananthapuram. It’s often easiest to buy train tickets out of a town as soon as you arrive, but in this case I wish I hadn’t. Madurai is once of the places on my trip I would have liked to spend more time exploring.

More (better) photos of Madurai can be seen in the gallery.

Kanyakumari, India | 27 January, 2007 | $5.65

Finally, I made it to the end—the Southern tip of India. After leaving Kerala, and certainly after leaving Varkala Beach, I encountered few Western tourists. Southern India has a vastly different feel than the North and I hope everyone traveling to India has time to experience both. This spot is a special place, not only the Southernmost tip of mainland India, but also the meeting point of the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and Indian Oceans. A short boat trip bring tourists and pilgrims to two tiny islands where a monument and a large statue of the poet Thiruvalluvar stand.

More than the tourists sites, I enjoyed watching Indian tourists hang out on the beach, wade into the water and buy ice cream from colorful vendors. The day I spent in Kanyakumari was overcast, but the real excitement happened after dark. Something was happening in the temple in town, and after following people through the dark corridors I came up a scene of worshipers chanting around idols. It was hot and humid in the tiny rooms and most of the men were shirtless and covered in sweat. I had no idea what was going on but followed the crowds and eventually found my way out into the cool night air.

More photos of Kanyakumari can be seen in the gallery.

Varkala Beach, India | 25 January, 2007 | $5.65

Another three nights on the beach, still recovering from India before diving back into the big cities. Varkala is really interesting because the town, hotels and restaurants sit atop a high cliff, and visiting the beach requires climbing down the cliff. Aside from a few chair and umbrella rental services, the beach was only populated by people, not the typical sprawl of shacks. Dinner each night was beautiful and relaxing, watching the sun set from a cliff-side restaurant covered in candles and cheap, fresh seafood.

More photos of Varkala can be seen in the gallery.

Alleppey, India | 23 January, 2007 | $6.77

Alleppey was really just a one night stopover on my way South, but I stumbled upon some interesting sights. While walking on the edge of town after a self-made tour of the colonial canals running through town, I saw a large field of military or police officers training children how to march. Along the beach at sunset more schoolchildren turned up to run into the waves and flirt with the boys who stayed a respectable distance down the beach.

Kerala was a refreshing break from dirty cities and crowded Indian cities. I don’t remember running into any other tourists in town and everyone went about their business with only a smile in my direction, not a sales pitch or pushy rickshaw driver in sight.

More photos of Alleppey can be seen in the gallery.

Kochi, India | 22 January, 2007 | $6.77

Heading further South along India’s West coast, Fort Kochin and Kochi are solidly in the Kerala region. I attended a Kathakali performance put on for tourists which has been shortened for the Western attention span. Coming to the theater early is a special treat, because you can watch the performers apply their elaborate makeup and red eyes. The performance has words, only subtle gestures and expressions that carefully convey meaning. Even at the shortened length it was a little long, but definitely worth attending.

More photos of Fort Kockin/Kochi and the Kathakali performance can be seen in the gallery.

Palolem – Kochi, India | 20 January, 2007 | $9.21 (sleeper train)

This train must have been pretty unremarkable since I didn’t bother to record how long the trip took. Perhaps after four nights on the beach I was too relaxed (or antsy) to care.