Oh curved seams. You tricky little things, you.

Have you ever sewn a garment, and a seam just don’t seem to lay right? Or it bubbles or twists in a weird way? Annoying, I know. Chances are, you forgot to clip or notch your curved edge. When you work with curved seams, you can either end up with excess bulk or a lot of pulling and tugging. This is because the length of your stitch line measures differently from the length of the edge of your fabric. So when it is turned right side out, it doesn’t conform correctly or lie flat. You can solve this by either clipping or notching your seam allowance, to allow for that adjustment.

Another time it comes in handy? When trying to attach a curved edge to a straight edge. But we’ll get to that in a minute.

So… when do you clip and when do you notch? Read on to find out!

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Read the rest of Clipping vs. Notching (339 words)

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So my dears some of you have asked about what the Cascade looks like on a shorter girl – well lucky for you i’m a good 5 inches shorter than our lovely model for the Breakwater collection!

As you can see on me the Cascade hits lower at the back, closer to my ankles, around maxi length. The front is slightly longer too, but not noticeably i don’t think.

Personally, i enjoy the skirt at this length – but if you’d prefer your skirt around calf height as in the lookbook, it’s pretty simple. Just shorten the skirt hem at the centre back by around 5″ (as a guide), and then using a curve ruler redraw the hem curve to meet the hem at the side seam. I know i’ve said it before but i think its worth mentioning again – just be careful when shortening the front of the skirt – due to the wrap of the skirt it gets short really quickly if you start shortening near the centre front, so keep that in mind!

Meanwhile, this is one of my favourite ways to wear the Cascade casually – a simple tshirt, a statement necklace, chic sandals and we’re done. A variation on this outfit is a pretty good example of my summer uniform. It’s as comfy (actually more so) as track pants and a tshirt, i promise. Have i ever lied to you?!

Most days i’m wearing a Briar with it – either tucked in or a cropped version. I normally tuck with this particular skirt though – since it’s the waistband version that ties in the back, i prefer not to cover up the bows. I like bows :) This was actually one of the first samples of the Cascade, and it’s still one of my favourites – its in pretty epic golden rotation right now, and i’m pretty excited to try it in the cooler weather.

Actually, i snuck this skirt into a previous post a few months ago – did you notice it?! Should we make this fun?! First person who can find that post gets a free Cascade! Do you think you can do it? Ready set go!

[Make this look]

Skirt: Megan Nielsen Cascade skirt // pattern + similar fabric
Tshirt: NOTW // pattern + similar fabric + fabric paint
Sandals: Country Road // Eve
Necklace: Merl Kinzie / Clydes Rebirth
Bracelet: Kristin Hassan 

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink

Have you ever seen or done a rolled hem? This type of hem finish is usually used on lightweight and delicate fabrics, and produces a very, very small turned hem. And it just so happens that three of the patterns from the new Breakwater collection call for rolled hems. If you plan on making the Cascade skirt, Crescent blouse, Tania culottes, or any other garment with delicate fabric, you should  be considering this finish.

And lucky you – there are actually multiple ways that you can choose to do a rolled hem. Three, actually! You can do it by machine using a special presser foot, by machine without the foot, or by hand. And we’re here today to show you how to do all three.

Bare with us – there is a lot of information in this post. We just wanted to give you all of your options, and all of the info in one stop for easy reference . So read on to see them all and pick your favorite!

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Read the rest of 3 ways to sew a rolled hem (974 words)

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink

We have a special treat for you all today! All of these lovely ladies were kind of enough to serve as pattern testers for the new Breakwater collection while Meg was finalizing everything. They’re here today to share what they have done. And let me tell you, that all did amazing (and these are only half of them!). Check out all the girls below, and stay tuned later this month – we will have round two with even more amazing ladies and their creations!

who: Sophie of Cirque Du Bebe

pattern tested: MN2103 Crescent Blouse

what did they think?: “This top is dreamy! I had so much fun testing this pattern, usually I steer towards prints but this pattern already has so many cute features and details I went with a solid, in a silk cotton. Though the pattern certainly has scope for lots of fun variations, I think if I was to make it again I’d play with some fleuro color-blocking. It’s comfy and a lovely fit, even if my shoulders only just fit into the cut outs, genetics can take the blame for that one.”

who: Ginger Makes

pattern tested: MN2103 Crescent blouse

any variations planned?: “I’m planning quite a few variations– I’d like to lengthen one into a dress, and make another with a pointed collar.  I’m also really excited to make one using sheer fabric for the crossover hem for some extra fun.”

who:Sallie of Sallie Oh

pattern tested: MN2103 Crescent blouse

any variations planned?:  “When I first saw the sketch for the Crescent blouse I was really inspired to make one that was dressy and feminine, a perfect summer date-night top! But now that I made that one, all I can think of is making a more relaxed version – almost sporty – maybe in white mesh with turquoise contrast binding.”

who: Melissa Esplin of I Still Love You

pattern tested: MN2202 Cascade skirt

what did they think? any tips?: “It’s imperative to trust the grainline on the pattern pieces! Megan knew exactly what she was doing when she drew up the grain lines. I wasn’t sure about it at first, but I’m so glad I followed her instructions. It made the drape of the skirt just right on all sides.”

who: Michelle of Handmade Martini

pattern tested: MN2202 Cascade skirt

what did they think?: “This pattern was very easy to sew, and the resulting drape of the skirt is gorgeous. Even with basic cotton gauze, which is what I used, it’s definitely a statement piece.”

who: Michelle of Handmade Martini (again!)

pattern tested: MN2101 Eucalypt tank and dress

any variations planned?: “I’ve already finished one variation — a version with the front seam and contrasting fabric. I’ve got a Liberty of London fabric  (with parrots!) on order that I’ll use for another version. It won’t be the last one I make, that’s for sure.”

who: Anna of Blogless Anna

pattern tested: MN2101 Eucalypt tank and dress

what did they think?: “When Megan sent me the proposed line drawings for her new collection, I was VERY excited about the Eucalyptus Tank & Dress.  A woven tank was a missing item in my wardrobe, I loved it’s simple lines and all the possible variations.  I made the tank and was thrilled with the result.  It’s such a flattering cut for my body shape.  In fact, I was so thrilled with my tank, I raided my Liberty tana lawn stash and made a dress straight after.”

who: Amanda of Bimble and Pimble

pattern tested: MN2101 Eucalypt tank and dress

any variations planned?: “Yup, I’m thinking a lace yoke version for spring… Just got to make it through winter first!”

who: Jen of Made On The Couch

pattern tested: MN2203 Tania Culottes

what did they think?: “I loved it. These are totally my kind of culottes. Not only do they look nothing like the horrid ones I was forced to wear when I was a girl guide (yep, that’s how cool I am), they’re SUPER practical for Perth weather- we’re in the top ten windiest cities in the world (or so the internet tells me), but I still love to wear pretty skirts- these culottes are totally the solution. You can also run around in them, sit on the ground without fear- there really isn’t anything that you can’t do with them. I’m pretty much in love. And seriously, when you bend over in them in a most unlady like manner, they are the most hilarious things to look at in the world. I don’t even know how to explain that. Anyway. Moral of the story? Awesome, sneaky pants inside a skirt. I am quite taken with them :)”

What about you?! We’d love to see what you’re creating from the Breakwater collection! Join the Megan Nielsen Flickr group to share what you’ve been working on, and check out what everyone else is up to!

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink

You guys, you have no idea how excited I’ve been to do a Crescent dress variation! Ever since Megan first showed me the graphics for the new designs, a Crescent dress has been on my mind. And I couldn’t be more thrilled with how it turned out!

The Crescent pattern is designed to easily add a skirt to the waist, since the top portion ends at the waist (around the belly button). No need for any adjustments if you don’t want to, just add a gathered skirt, and you’re good to go! And Crescent is designed to be loose fitted, so to bring it in at the waist, I just added some elastic. Easy peasy!

Read on to see how to do this easy variation, and don’t forget to reference yesterday’s post for tips and tricks on assembling the crescent top!

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Read the rest of Crescent Variation : Elastic Waist Dress (241 words)

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink

Woohoo! How much did everyone LOVE the debut of the new collection?! Meg is just amazing, right? I swear, these patterns just keep getting better and better.

But now that we’ve gotten through all the introductions and inspirations, it is time to get down to business – variations and tutorials! I just haaaaad to start with the Crescent. I mean, it is one of the most beautiful and detailed designs in the collection, and I am completely enamored with it. But being the most detailed also means it could be the most intimidating to some sewers. Yes, there is a lot of bias tape, and yes, there are a lot of steps. But it’s really not that hard, I swear! So I’m here today to walk you through a few (and more difficult) steps, highlight important parts, and offer some tips along the way.

Ok, let’s get started!

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Read the rest of Crescent Blouse : Tips and Tricks (565 words)

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink

I blinked, and suddenly we’ve been back home for a year already.

Isn’t that just unreal? I think it’s such a perfect example to me of how quickly time goes by when you’re happy – and this year has flown. It feels like  yesterday that we made that big leap to come back to Australia, and it’s silly, but i’m actually finding it hard to get my head around the fact that it wasn’t yesterday, it was a long time ago.

I remember this day last year so clearly. It was the day after we made it home – and it was both a beautifully hopeful time of relaxing and enjoying family time before the reality of every day living began – but it was also a time of stress for me. My little pattern business was only a few months old – and i had no idea how i was going to start from scratch all over again in a new country. A more expensive country. One that isn’t known for manufacturing. One where i had no relationships with service providers. No contacts. I was new again. All i knew was that i was going to do everything i could to make it work, and fight fight fight. And that’s what i did.

Fast forward to today – and it’s an amazing feeling to think that i can now say i survived the move in the brand sense. A year on, and 6 new patterns. For me, thats a huge deal – considering that one little year ago, i sat on a precipice of doubt wondering if i’d ever be able to rebuild what i had started in America. Wondering if this thing i’d created, and given so much to would just die a quiet sad little death. It sounds dramatic now, but thats what it felt like.

So I’m very grateful my friends! Excited and overwhelmed with a feeling that we did it! Not to get all gushy on you (again), but you know it’s because of you right? Yes i killed myself creating the business and manufacturing from scrach all over again – but if you hadn’t continued to support me through it, there would be nothing right now. So my dear friends, thank you for an amazing wonderful year!!!!

On a more personal note, this has been really good for our family. It’s been hard for us to explain that we loved America so much, and yet also love Australia so much – and how on earth is one to choose between them?! The place where we built a family, where our children were born? Versus the place where we grew up, and where we fell in love and our parents live? Those places will be special forever. But thankfully, being near family has been worth missing the good things we loved in our old home. My dream for coming home was that my kids could grow up seeing their grandparents all the time – and now that is so so true. What a blessing!! And in my pathetic nostalgic way, i love that my kids can grow up in the town we grew up in. That when we take them to ride their bikes we can say “this is where daddy rode his bike when he was little” and when we take them to the park we know it’s the spot where Chris proposed. Every one of our favourite childhood haunts, our favourite experiences are now theirs. Can i just squeal with joy?

Because i am.

Meg XOXO

ps. This is the Crescent blouse tunic version with a pair of shorts – actually they’re my Far Horizon shorts from the Sunburnt Country collection. I think they’ll always be a favourite of mine, and they’ve been the perfect breezy option during the hot hot summer!

Make this look:
Top: Megan Nielsen Crescent blouse (tunic version) // kit or pattern
Shorts: Megan Nielsen Far Horizon shorts // Similar pattern
Sandals: Country Road // Eve
Sunnies: Witchery // Valerie

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink

You may have noticed that i really really like bias binding tape. It features in a couple of patterns for good reason – the Darling Ranges dress, the Banksia top, the Crescent blouse and the Eucalypt tank- it’s just seriously awesome. the end.

Oh you need more explanation than that?! hehe Ok, lets chat. Incase you haven’t yet discovered the joy that is bias tape – here’s the run down, it’s basically a strip of fabric cut on a 45 degree angle with the edges pressed in to make it easy to use. Look i made a picture :)

Why is it awesome? It’s awesome because since the strip is cut on the 45 degree angle, it has some stretch to it, which means it can conform beautifully to curves (making your life easier) and more than that, it makes finishing the raw edges on many garments a breeze (your life easier again). No it can’t do everything, but it can do a lot.

So what can you do with bias tape? Well a lot :) I like to use it instead of facings a lot. I have a personal hatred for facings – i think they look icky, they’re generally a pain to sew – and even worse a pain to wash (please tell me i’m not the only one whose facings turn inside out and get all crazy after going through the washing machine?!). I use it on necklines and armsyces the most often – and i like that you can get a nice clean edge and completely enclose the raw edge. My second favourite use for bias tape is hemming – it’s fantastic for curved hems, and if you accidently cut your skirt or pants too short – you can use bias tape as a teeny tiny hem on the inside.   It also makes a pretty cool design detail – since it conforms so easily you can top stitch it on pretty much anything to create an interesting design. It’s also a favourite for quilters and crafters who use it to bind the edges of quilts and pot holders and cute stuff like that. But sometimes – i also like to use it to cheat :) It can make  pretty good simple straps for dresses – wide tape is a nice cheat for a waistband.

And you can make it yourself! i know, how cool is that? There is something alluring about buying bias tape because it’s so cheap and convenient – but i love home made bias tape so much more because it’s just so much cuter, and you can match it perfectly to your garment, which is pretty darn cool. There’s something so satisfying about a garment that’s pretty on the inside and outside. But i think the even more surprising point is that is super cheap – you can get more bias out of yard of fabric than you could buy premade for the same amount. But most of the time, it can be free. yeah free! Lately my favourite thing to do with cute fabric scraps is to cut them on the bias and make some quick bias tape – i save it for later, and then when i want to sew i have something cute waiting for me! I almost never have a project where i don’t have enough fabric left over to make matching bias.

Ready to learn how to make some? Have i convinced you that you need bias tape in your life?! i promise its easy! Click through for instructions!

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Read the rest of tutorial: how to make bias tape (639 words)

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink

The Eucalypt has been one of my go to personal patterns for a while – and i’m really glad to finally release it as a pattern! I first drafted it for my Perth Collection in 2010, and since then it’s been my go to woven tank block. I just love it – and i hope you do too!! Here’s a little more about it:

Leaves baby. It’s all about leaves. If you’ve been reading for a while you know my love and adoration for Australian flora ( one, two, three, four) – i love my country :) Eucalypt leaves are my favourite – there is something about them that draws me, and whenever i am out in the valley i find myself take a ridiculous number of close ups of those leaves. The curves of the hem and neckline and the seaming down the centre front is intended to mimic that.

When i pulled Eucalypt out last year to begin creating a pattern for all of you, i was inspired all over again by those beautiful leaves. I found myself doing a lot of floral and leaf sketches and watercolours (such as the one above). Drawing and painting are another form my inspiration takes me in – even if i’m not sketching an actual apparel design, the act of creating something i find pretty still helps me go in the right direction.

As i mentioned above – the Eucalypt is from a past collection – but since then i’ve used it for many more garments than i had originally planned. I wanted to include that versatility in the pattern – which is why i added the dress version to the pattern as well. Girls have gotta have options, am i right?!

Since so much of the work had already been done, this was actually the quickest pattern to develop. It’s been tested tried and trued over many years so i felt pretty satisfied about it from the get go. As a result most of my development time was spent ensuring that the construction would be as beautiful and as straight forward as possible.

I really wanted this pattern to be a perfect first project for beginners. No darts. No buttons. No zippers. What could be better?  After working so very long on the other patterns, it was certainly refreshing to have part of the work done for this one previously.

I have to admit, i’m really excited to share this one with you because it feels so personal. Much like the Briar, i just pull this pattern out for my own wardrobe so often, that it feels special that you can now use it too!

I could go on and on about the variation potential of the Eucalypt. If like me you love to cut up a pattern and see how many different things you can make it into, then Eucalypt is your girl!

With just the included versions you can make 4 pieces: plain tank, tank with centre seam, plain dress, and dress with centre seam.

But seriously, why end there?! I’d really love to try a colour blocked version with a different colour on each side. I think it would be super easy to use that centre seam to create a simple button up blouse – and i am literally dying to find a nice striped shirting to cut on the bias and create a chevron with. so excited!

I’m also thinking of cutting it at the waistline and adding a simple dirndl skirt. This pattern really can be so different when you try adding other little details like patch pockets and collars. Don’t be afraid to think beyond my ideas – there are so so many ways to use this pattern. I actually recently made myself a bunch of new sleepwear using the Eucalypt tank and some vintage sheets (they’re adorable, i need to post about it!)

The options are endless, and i really really can’t wait to see what versions you all come up with!!

Eucalypt is a loose fit woven tank and dress. It has a good amount of easy, and the armsyces aren’t too tight. It’s intended to feel very breezy and comfortable.

The hem is curved and is slightly longer in the back than the front (as is shown well above). The neckline is scooped but not too low, and the back of the neck is cut a little lower than your average tank, which i think gives it a very sweet look.

The hemline on the tank is nice and long, so that there is room to adjust if need be. The dress should hit below mid thigh, but is also easily adaptable.

You guys know i love easy adaptions! The Eucalypt is no different. Lengthening or shortening the pattern is most easily done by slashing the pattern horizontally at the hip and either spreading or overlapping the pieces.

And since there are no darts, altering the height of the neckline and armsyces etc is as easy as just drawing a new line. Isnt’ that a dream?

There are a lot of ways you could style up the Eucalypt!

I think it works just as well loose over jeans or shorts as it does tucked into say a skirt or the Tania culottes. It’s very versatile! This is another pattern where choosing your fabrics carefully can result in very different looks. Create the dress version in an evening wear fabric, and you’ve got a new chic cocktail dress – make it out of a light cotton, and it’s your saturday morning thrown on with a pair of converse on your way to get a coffee.

It works under a suit, it works as a beach cover up. It’s your nightie. It’s gorgeous as a belted dress. It can be as much of a show stopper or a wardrobe basic as you’d like it to be! When i call this pattern a wardrobe staple i’m really not kidding :)

So tell me – anything you want to ask about the Eucalypt? Any burning questions or concerns? let me know!!

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink

My Tania culottes and i have been best buddies all summer and i’m dying to try them out in the cooler weather too. I’m so thrilled to tell you a little bit more about this pattern today! I really loved developing it – it had been on my mind for a long time, and i feel a great amount of success with how they turned out. They might be my favourite “shorts” every. in the history of my life.

The idea behind the Tania culottes, is really two stories – that collided and exploded in my brain into the most amazing culottes ever.

This is my dear dear friend Tania (previously of What Would a Nerd Wear). One of the sweetest people, and best friends i’ve been lucky enough to know.  She is also one of those super cute girls you see riding their bikes everywhere. Complete with novels in the basket. I loved that every time we would catch up she’d be there with the bike her fiance built her, and decked out in a perfect outfit. Too cool and too adorable. I often have muses, and this time she was my muse. So of course, i just had to name this pattern after her :) And i’ll give you one guess as to where the lookbook inspiration came from.

You know what kind of a skirt bike riding girls need?! A skirt that won’t result in worrying that you might be flashing your undergarments to the world. A skirt thats really shorts! CULOTTES! Everyone i told my idea to cringed. But i felt it in my gut so i went for it. I’ve always loved the concept of culottes – but hated the execution. I don’t think i’ve ever seen a pair of culottes that were well done. They needed a reinvention. I wanted to be the person to do it.

I’m always telling friends that my best work comes from the feeling that i might be an insane person. Every time i take a risk, and i look at my design and think, am i genius or an idiot?! will people love this or hate it with a burning firey passion?! And after many years i’ve learnt that those feelings are my cue. Thats when i know i’m on to something really good. I think the best creativity lives in the space just before insanity hehehe.

And thats how i felt about these culottes. I couldn’t get them out of my mind, i had to make them because i wanted to wear them yesterday. And lets be honest, i really love short skirts, but sometimes they’re not practical, but these fulfill all my “short skirt but no peekaboo please” wishes.

The trouble with culottes is no-one ever took it far enough – you don’t want dorky shorts, you want a crazy cute skirt that is secretly shorts. The crotch is the key :) The seam is never effectively hidden, so you always know you’re looking at shorts. Ew.

After a lot of work (read: really sucky test pieces that almost made me want to give up) i came up with a clever little pleat design to hide the crotch seam. The more i worked, the wider and wider the culottes got – and for good reason. The flow and drape of the fabric adds to the “skirt illusion” i wanted.

This pattern is also a really great example of why pattern testing is so important. After really excellent feedback, i made sure to lengthen the culottes every so slightly in the back to make them more wearable. That way those of us with curvy figures don’t have to be worried about the “too short in the back” issues that can happen sometimes.

I also know that not everyone shares my love of short lengths – so i added instructions for how to add length to the culottes (its so crazy easy) – and the result of that is the culotte + bike outfit you saw in the lookbook.

Like all my patterns – variations are endless. I’d really love to try a maxi pair!! I know it’s probably going to take something ridicuous like 5 or 6 metres of fabric, but i kind of don’t care, i think it would be amazing!

Also, these culottes are perfect for hem embelishment – i want to try scallops as well as lace trim. Actually the lace might be the first i do, as one of my first test pieces turned out wayyyy to short, and i think this will be a way to overcome that!

I’d love to make a pair completely out of lace too – or just get crazy, and make a pair out of jersey omitting the zipper and hemmin entirely. I think it would also be interesting to try a pair made from chiffon with a lining underneath – perhaps the chiffon layour a good couple of inches longer you know?

Contrast waistbands need to happen too. just saying.

SO many ideas so little time :)

Tania has a contour waistband, and is intended to be worn high waisted – which means that the top of the waistband should sit at your narrowest part. The fit around the waist should be snug. If you’re more a hip hugging kind of girl, or prefer a looser fit, i suggest making a size or two larger and letting the culottes hang a bit lower.

The standard length is short, and should hit above your mid thigh (depending on your height they may hit lower, our model was 5’9″, but on me they hit mid thigh). Instructions are provided for lengthening.  They are very slightly longer in the back to adjust for the behind :)

They’re fine for sitting down too – unlike a short skirt, the fact that there is a crotch means you never have a “riding up” moment – and everything hangs beautifully in seated position.

I like easy alterations :) Making Tania shorter or longer is a pinch. We provide instructions in the booklet – but the basic gist is the same as for the Cascade, add to hem, don’t slash and spread horizontal to lengthen as it will warp the drape.

If you need to make the pattern larger or smaller width ways, i suggest you do this at the centre front, next to the pleat lines, via a vertical slash line.

The Tania culottes have become my favourite party trick. There is nothing i love more than someone telling me my skirt is crazy awesome, and me being able to yell back excited freakout replies along the lines of: It’s not a skirt! It’s culottes! i’m so excited! Look thats a crotch seam! (this is a true story, i’m still embarrassed hehehe)

You’re not really limited with styling options in my opinion. It works well with a tucked blouse, but you can also wear an untucked top loose over it to adorable effect. I tried to share both options in the lookbook. The Briar is a pretty perfect pairing too – since the cropped version will sit just at the waistband, and the longer version allows the culottes to be very visible from the front.

It’s also pretty good at double duty: It’s your every day staple, throw on a tshirt and you’re good to go – but it’s also special enough to wear out. If i still worked in a corporate environment nothing would stop me from making these in a wool and wearing them in the office. too rad.

I really can’t wait to show you the different ways i’ve styled this up!

Do you have any questions about the Tania culottes pattern?! anything you want to know?

We’ve got some great tutorials coming up and styling ideas and basically we’re just super excited hehehe Tania for the win!

© Megan Nielsen for megan nielsen design diary, 2013. | Permalink