Melissa Studies in Greece

Final Moments in Athens

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Mon, 19 May 2008 14:47:00 +0000

I can’t believe this trip has come to an end. Tomorrow morning, we hop on an early metro to the airport and take off, leaving this land below.

This morning I woke up early to make for the Acropolis one last time. It was already crowded in the morning, but not too terrible yet. Adam went up with me, and we climbed the steps and levels to walk through the gate, and the site still took my breath away. The most impressive thing was how quickly the Greeks built these monuments but how slow the process of renovation takes. It’s easy to look past the scaffolding, but I want to come back when it is clear again and see it completed.

I sat in front of the Erechtheum, which is my favorite monument in Greece. The porch of the Caryatids is my favorite part; it is the six women supporting the structure rather than columns. I found a good angle and sat on the ground to sketch it. It was a really difficult thing to sketch because of the angles. It is impossible to capture, but I love sketching because it really forces my mind to look at every part of the structure, and get intimate with each piece. It’s much slower than just running around looking at this monument and that, and just feeling so overwhelmed. This trip has been a really good survey of Greece, enough to give me just that taste that makes me never want to stop coming back and learning more.

I walked around by myself for a bit, which was perfect because I could just spend time reflecting about this whole trip, and coming to some sort of catharsis about it in my spirit. This has been totally amazing, so intense and inspirational. I’m looking forward to coming back to Colorado, it is my favorite in the summer, and being home will be really nice. But there is definitely something way sad about leaving Europe, a kind of yearning, just this place holds a lot of meaning to me I guess.

I walked through the ancient Agora, and around the flea market full of people trying to sell all imaginable things, including a lot of rip off high brands like Dior and Chanel. I ran into Matthew and Adam and we went to the ancient cemetery together, which was really cool to walk around in and visit the museum. I didn’t know a lot about this site so I wasn’t as connected as I was to many of the others, but we got to realize where the outside wall to the city of Athens would have been.

We got lunch on a corner sandwich place, I got a Panini with tomatoes, feta, and olives, I wanted something totally Greek, and Fanta lemonade, which is really tasty. I split off from the guys to walk through Syntagma again and go shopping, last minute gifts and some things for myself too, dang this is gonna be a long time recovering for my bank account, but this trip has left us all so happy and so very broke. I walked back home, met Carly on the way and she had this delish wild cherry yogurt ice cream, which of course, I had to get, and sat on a bench and watched this couple across from me have an epic lover's fight in Greek. At least, that’s what I imagine it was. When you don’t know a language it’s way too much fun to fill in what could be going on.

I walked back to the hotel and got my bags more packed and ready to go home. I’m just praying that all the souvenirs I got won’t break all over my clothes, especially the wine I got in Crete. I am so stoked about doing laundry it’s not even funny, we are gonna be one stinky group of travelers on that plane tomorrow in the same clothes we have been living in for three weeks now.

Getting home is gonna feel really weird, that reverse culture shock. No matter how many times I've traveled so far, it always hits me.

Greece, Athens, Adio! I will never forget you and the amazing effect that you've had on me.

Thanks to all of you who have read my blog and I hope that you enjoyed it. You have to go to Greece one day. You just have to!

Discovering Crete

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Mon, 19 May 2008 13:35:00 +0000

This day was a long one, it started with us attempting to go to a museum which was closed due to a strike. We walked around Fira to a different museum, which contains replicated wall paintings that were found in the site which survived the volcano. The pictures were amazing, the colors intense and the details crystal clear. It’s hard to walk around and picture these things decorating houses, and trying to interpret meanings, whether they display everyday life or an ideal or someone's fantasy.

After the museum, we spent the last several hours walking around the cliff-side town, buying souvenirs, writing postcards, and eating lunch all together in an awesome taverna we've come to love called Dionysus. We were all ready to catch our evening high-speed ferry that we waited around the dock. That thing flew! It was even called the Flying Cat. I’ve never seen something fly through the water like that. It seemed short and we arrived in Iraklion in Crete before sunset, and got on our bus to drive us about 2 hours to Rethymnon to our hotel. Crete is a really colorful place, insane drivers, interesting people and it just has this certain spice in it that I’ve been struggling to put my finger on. The mountains are so tall, the tallest has traces of snow, and the ravines and valleys are so fertile, lined with olive groves and the spring flowers are spilling over the grey rocks. The dusky horizon blends the separation of the sea into the sky, which gives the illusion that the entire island is floating surrounded by the soft orchid colored belt of Venus.

The evening dusked into blackness, lights sprinkling the hills as we rocket around hills, it feels as though the bus is barely clinging to road as we speed along. I’m freezing, like always but the cold air blasting us is kind of invigorating. We arrive in the old town, and don’t see much this night as we stumble tiredly to the hotel. We check in, and pass out.

Next morning, we got back in the car for the long journey back to Iraklion, and see first the museum, then hit up Knossos to see the famous site of the mythical labyrinth, the palace of King Minos and his wife Pasiphae, and all the mythology of Theseus slaying the minotaur comes to life. The maze-like layout of the castle remains really give me an idea how such a myth could arise. The remains have been partially reconstructed, which give an idea of how the archeologists imagined it, which, though quite probably inaccurate, show some color and structure to the extensive ruins.

We then continued on to a tiny village and had to go a long way due to an accident. We had lunch there, and we were all totally dead and tired, but the food brought us to life a little more. After this we went to an olive oil press and learned a little about the process and got to purchase some quality olive oil. We got back to Rethymnon and got to explore, it’s full of Venetian buildings and tons of people walking or sitting at street-side cafes people watching. We ate crepes for dinner, and they were so amazingly delicious. Walked around more then went to bed.

Next day was a very long day, started with getting up early and visiting the fort. It was amazing, totally deserted and we just were let loose to run around and take pictures, every nook had something interesting. The fort really felt like so historical, I felt such a passion being there, checking out the fortifications and imagining a world in which this was the true sign of power.

After the fort, we drove to Gortya and saw the ruins there. There we found a huge law code and it was so cool! We got to read some of the translation, and learning about law codes really brought meaning to the site.

After this we continued on to Faestos, another huge palace like Knossos, but not reconstructed. There were pine trees on the mountains, and fertile olive fields below.

We then drove to Matala, where we ate lunch and could go swimming in the Libian Sea. The cliffs are lined with caves which once where roman tombs then housed some hippies in the 60s, including Joanie Mitchell. It was fun but also creepy to explore around there, but the town is really a sight.

Finally, we arrived at the port to catch our night high-speed ferry back to Athens. The ship is nice, we have cabins and there is a bar, cafe, and cafeteria. I sat on top of the ship to watch us take off, it was so high looking down gave such a sense of vertigo. We were off in no time, and I went to bed and slept like a dream.

Woke up this morning at 5:45, and we got ready to disembark. I love returning to Athens! This city is so beautiful. We brought our bags to the hotel, then ate breakfast and went to the national archeological museum. The museum was beautiful, but it kind of bums me out how little real history of Greece that Greece owns. A lot of the true masterpieces are in London and Paris. Still, there was so much to see and I sketched a statue of Aphrodite from behind. I’ve been looking over my sketches of this trip and I can definitely see an improvement, this was the best yet. Still nothing special, but it’s getting there! My mom told me to try to sketch one thing each day, and although I’ve missed a bunch. I have 14 now. Then we returned to the Plaka for lunch and walked around eating ice cream.

I then split off from the group to do some exploring. I got some gifts for people back home and then went and sat to watch the scene kids in syntagma square, and check out the fashion and style scene. That place is like centrale, let me tell you. I could sit there forever. When I was walking back I saw some rock stars filming a music video and it was really cool to see him walking down, the parliament building behind as he was lip syncing along for the scene.

Tonight we are going to dinner and tomorrow is a free day until the farewell dinner. I so do not want to leave this place.

The Next Morning -- A winery

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Wed, 14 May 2008 15:30:00 +0000

We get up, eat breakfast, and go to the town of Oya, which has remained intact since the 1950s when an eruption devastated the island again. The houses are cool; it’s like walking out of time. It was so beautiful; I will never get tired of looking at the cliffs and white houses juxtaposed on top. It seems so insane to live here, but it is done and done well.

Carly and I see a model on a photo shoot, standing in a door. Her photographer and entourage speak to her through, "Isabella, look this way, angle your body, watch your hands". I LOVED seeing this. I am kind of a sucker for modeling and fashion, so seeing it for real was really inspiring and just a way cool thing to see. She was so beautiful! God it would be so amazing to do that.

Our next destination is a winery, and we learn about how unique the product on Santorini is because of the volcanic ash. The documentary we watched was a bit over the top but also pretty interesting, I felt sold on how special this wine is, on what a big deal it is. We tasted 3 types and some of us bought some to bring home.

Next we went to a black sandy beach to eat lunch and lay in the sun or swim. It was just the perfect afternoon to chill a little. I felt like a lizard finally warming up on those black rocks. I'm a really cold person all the time, so it was bliss for me.

We came back to hotel and some of the people in the group will go back to Oya to see the sunset. I'm gonna be hanging out around here to do some shopping and go to bed early. I’m so exhausted! Tomorrow we have a lot to see and will take a late ferry to Crete, and arrive after dark there. I can’t wait to wake up the morning and see what the new destination will be like.

The Most Bizarre Day Ever

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Wed, 14 May 2008 15:04:00 +0000

Looking back on what happened today is like remembering a random dream. It was so fun, but totally surreal.

It started with 9 of us (excluding Dara, Irini our guide, and Dr. Martin) piling into a big blue bus and heading down the switchbacks to the port to go on our day excursion to the caldera. We get to the chaotic port and are herded into a covered area and told to wait there. We are so confused about what we are doing and waiting for, we have no tickets or names of the excursion or boat or anything.

We get up as the other people who had been on the bus begin crowding around this ship that has just pulled into the dock. It looks like a pirate ship, two masts and quite large. We stand in line awkwardly and slowly come to the realization that everyone around has some pieces of paper in their hands that they are handing to the people to get on. The guide on this trip, a little woman just sparking with nervous energy named Eva, helps us call the hotel and Irini to figure out what is going on. The boat waits a good 20 minutes, the people who are on board bore their eyes into us as we stand there and they are just waiting. We don’t know if the bus driver just took the money or if the company would be paid. Eva told us to split up to try to find the bus we came down on, and we turn to see a sea of huge, identical blue buses and start scrambling around, hoping to recognize the man who had driven our bus. We can’t find him, and Eva shuffles us on board once everything is taken care of with the tour office. Finally we are off!

The ship makes a stop to pick up more people. This area is so beautiful, large cruise ships chug through the deep, crystal waters and the volcanic cliffs are all dark and shoot out of the water. It’s impossible to imagine this area once being a complete island, but the way it has been morphed and shaped is truly awesome. We arrive first at the central island, the volcanoes. Eva goes sprinting up the volcano and the tour group goes dashing after her, trying to keep precarious footing on the light rough stones that sound like glass when you walk on them. We stop at the three main volcanoes, and at each place Eva has something to tell us about the volcano, the way the island was formed, or the history of eruptions. It is hard to hear her quiet voice over the loud crunching of pumice and the translators. We get the idea that the power of these geologic events has both been the creators and destroyers, again and again of Santorini. It seems such a bizarre place to live, no water, huge cliffs, it doesn’t make sense for this place to be inhabited. But it is, and the people have adapted to a unique way of life that is worth checking out.

We get to the top, it seems that we have climbed the whole mountain, and take in the breathtaking vista from the center. The smaller islands circle us like skipping stones, rising out of the water and defying logic with all the white buildings coating the tops like powdered sugar. We have to hurry to follow Eva down or the boat will leave us on the volcano. She nearly falls in to a crater as she slips on the gravel, but pulls herself up and continues flying down the path. Before we know it we are on the boat, lotioning up with sunscreen and getting ready for our next adventure.

We get to the area of the hot springs, passing by an outcropping that looks like the head of a crocodile. You can just about hear the "tick-tock, tick-tock" as our day feels more and more like an excursion through pirates’ cove in Neverland. We are told that to get to the hot springs, we have to jump off of the ship into 20 meters of cold water, swim 30 meters to the muddy looking area behind an ancient looking white church, then swim back, and get back on the boat. The warnings keep blaring out, if you cannot swim WELL, please stay on board. Of course, we cannot pass up this crazy idea, so we strip down to our bathing suits and jump in, the salty cold shocking us into swimming faster. We make our way to the hot springs like strange pilgrims on a quest, walking in murky, muddy water. Our feet squelch in thick, oozy mud, kicking sharp stones along the way. We get to end, which is not really all that hot, and try to stand over the bubbled hot spots. It was definitely no bubbling Jacuzzi back there, and we realize that for all the slight warmth we have we now have to swim back into the water getting colder with each wave to the ship. The coldness urges us back on, and we are soon back on the boat and on our way to the island where we will eat lunch.

We disembark from the ship and get on the donkeys which will pack us up to the top of the cliffs. This little man urges us in and seats us on the donkeys. Their bells tinkle as they shake their heads, resting before they are driven up the mountain again. With a few yells they come to life and are off, pushing past each other and pulling for the best place. I picture that they would slowly be meandering, single file, up the switchbacks, but with the man yelling things and cracking his whip they were flying, jocking for position and cutting each other off around the bends. We were laughing so hard and it just kept crossing my mind, what an odd thing we were doing. People are crazy. It was definitely one of the best experiences of all time ever.

We get up to the top and eat lunch. Up there, it is nothing spectacular, but the day and entire experience has just been totally nuts so we are happy and making a lot of obligatory ass jokes. It just has to be done.

We returned to the ship, and arrived back at the port and on the proper bus to take us to the hotel. We meet up with Dara for dinner and all have a really fun evening together. Our group has really bonded and we have a lot of crazy stories already. Its gonna be hard to say goodbye in a week.

A Mindboggling Adventure

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Tue, 13 May 2008 18:43:00 +0000

The temple of Apollo is SWEET! The time of day we went was so perfect, early evening, the light hitting the framed rectangle just right, the place just felt deep and earthy. We just stood there, excited and in awe, and then sat on the edge of the water and soaked in the dusky beauty.

Dinner was hilarious. We have got just too many jokes now; it’s getting ridiculously out of hand. I cannot stress how amazing the food is. It’s been really great to feel totally taken care of with food and our hotels. It is so much more enjoyable of a trip trusting in the amazing planning that when into it. Our guide Irini is so awesome and of course Dr. Martin is the best ever.

The next morning we got up and went to check out this pottery place. The man there demonstrated throwing a pot-- it was so cool, he did it so quickly it was unreal. He showed us the things he'd worked on, beautiful pieces and ones that did some pretty cool stuff. For instance, there was the justice cup, which you can only fill to a certain level or all of the wine flows out. That’s all about equality and a check on greediness. It was an invention of Pythagoras and still is amazing to see today. There was a pot which could filter wine from a large jar, and also a contraption that when filled with water you could make whistle like birds.

I volunteered to try to make something; it was so cool to get my hands in the clay and try to make it. Luckily the potter threw the pot and centered it, and really did most of the work, but I ended up making an ashtray. It was way fun to try it out.

Next we stopped at the citron distillery, a local Naxian –- alcohol made from the leaves of a tree which is kind of like a lemon tree. We learned how the process worked and then got to sample the types. We then drove up a mountain sprinkled with wildflowers and arrived at an ancient church, which was built in the 7th century CE. It was so old! It smelled like roses and honey there, that smell will forever be ingrained in my memory when I think about this church. Irini explained in depth about the reliefs on the wall and the symbology in an iconic image of the virgin and Christ. I never realized how much symbolism these images represented. Learning about it in such a detailed way makes looking at it so much more meaningful.

We stopped to look at a marble quarry on the hill. It was HUGE! There were huge blocks of marble cut out of the mountainside, I can’t describe it, but I was definitely impressed. I really gained an appreciation for man's creative use of resources. We visited a half-finished, discarded statue near a quarry. It was easy to picture the sculptors coming right to the site to create these colossal masterpieces, but there must have been a lot of frustration at mistakes. The area was wooded and smelled like lilacs.

We stopped at the beach next, grabbed a bite to eat and tried to brave the cold waters. It was too windy and cold for me, but it was nice to sit in the sun and try to sketch some more. It has just been so crazy busy so taking a moment was really nice.

Back at the hotel, we had a free night to do what we pleased, explore, and eat dinner. I went home sooner than everyone to try to catch up on some sleep.

Next morning we woke up and boarded a smaller ship that would take us to the sacred island of Delos in the morning and to Mikanos in the afternoon. The water was crazy, it was windy and cloudy and Dara, Matthew and I braved the front of the ship in the hopes of seeing dolphins riding the bow stream. We did not, but the spray and wind livened us up, and we landed on the birthplace of Apollo all rosy cheeked and bright eyed. This island was amazing, coated in wildflowers and ruins. It is just an ancient site, there is not a modern town here. A lot has been taken and worn down on this island over the years, but what is left and what has been reconstructed is mindboggling. We saw the famous lions, floor mosaics, roman houses, and Matthew read a poem while we listened in the theater.

Before long we were on the ship again, but the waters were rougher so we had to stay in the back. We landed on the infamous Mikanos, well known for its nightlife and partying. Unfortunately, we would leave before it picked up, but we got to eat and walk around the pure white streets, exploring another island which yet again had a completely different feel from any place we had already been. There were some gigantic pelicans on the island that we found ceaselessly entertaining. One of the restaurant workers was playing catch with it using a pen and we pretty much died. They were HUGE! I never imagined pelicans to be that large.

We got back on the even more bumpy seas and finally arrived home, much to our queasy relief. We ate dinner together and then a few of us went for some drinks and met some people from Norway. I love meeting people from other places and getting to know them, it is truly one of my favorite parts of traveling!

It’s so humbling to learn how many other languages so many Europeans can speak while we Americans hope to get by on English. It is also interesting to hear other people’s opinions on politics in the world. I really am starting to think that all the people think the same way, we just want peace and to be happy and to help each other out, but our leaders keep making a mess of everything. I want to imagine that one day we can come together in peace.

We got to sleep in this morning late, and got on the ferry to Santorini at noon. I sat on the back corner of the ferry and was just mesmerized by the crystalline blue of the water and the feathery sheaths of clouds in the sky. We arrived in Santorini before long, people gathering on the edge of the ferry to look at the tall cliffs on which white buildings perch precariously. One thing I didn’t realize from the pictures I had seen was how tall the cliffs go. Everyone rushed out of the ferry in a chaotic mess, cars honking, hotel workers trying to get business, and all of us dodging around it all to get to our van. We are driven up the switchbacks that seem like a toy car track, up through weathered pumice thrusting endlessly into the sky, the caldera of the volcano resting silently in the water to our side. Could this be the site of the fabled
Atlantis?

This place sparks the imagination and calls to a part of me that wants to create myths and picture incredible situations.

We arrive at our hotel and Adam, Carly and I walk around the town, grab a snack, and overlook the water thousands of feet below. It’s hard to imagine the houses being built here, and the view is so breathtaking. No words or descriptions could possibly give this majestic place justice.

Soon we will meet for dinner and tomorrow we are going to the caldera. I can’t believe we have barely over a week remaining. It feels as if I have been here for a lifetime and just in a fleeting dream.

Aegean Islands: Paros

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Tue, 13 May 2008 18:31:00 +0000

The morning is a blur as we beat the sun to our ferry. As I step onto the ship, the hyper excitement that always gets me on boats instantly energizes me. I can hardly wait until we set off. Soon we embark, as the ferry leaves the port I just look at the rocks and picture them, unchanging, as the area around them changed throughout history. I see it like those sped up bits of documentaries, the buildings erected, decaying, ships of all different styles throughout history and from far lands zooming in and out of the port about their business, and the rocks just solid, silent.

Four hours of us exploring the ship, trying to stay out of the biting wind, and a few sketches later, we arrive, jostling each other to get to our bags. We dig them out from the mountain of luggage, passing them to each other and making sure we have everything. We wait as the plank lowers, a cheesy melody blaring out, and the opening revealing blue waters, green hills, and white houses sprinkling the terraces. A small blue bus pulls us away from the dock, and my eyes are glued to the window, looking at the houses accented by bright blue shutters and doors, laser pink flowers cascading down walls and stairs. Each house is a picture, and before I know it we arrive at our hotel. It is airy and breezy, and just feels so calming. We quickly get situated and are soon exploring the village nearby, a whitewashed labyrinth of layers of houses, island cats on ledges and the white painted stones lining the path beneath our feet. We eat lunch, which is delicious, seafood right next to the ocean.

It starts to get chilly and it is the perfect afternoon to sketch, bust out some postcards and relax. I go down to the ocean and sit on a cement brick, mesmerized by the tumbling waters, the wind whipping me so cold but it feels so cleansing.

We go into the village for dinner, all sampling seafood and sharing family style. Our group is very close, we are laughing all the time and have already so many inside jokes and hilarious stories. Traveling with a group really causes you to bond, sharing an experience like this with other people is truly something special, and one of the reasons I love going abroad — the people I meet teach me so much in different ways. I feel really honored to get to know the people on this trip and also to get closer to the ones I already know quite well.

We went back to the hotel and went to bed early, trying to warm up from the bitter wind. Next morning it is hard to get out of bed, it is totally dreary out, a little rainy, and just kind of depressing. We get on our warmest clothes, eat some breakfast, and get into the bus, bleary-eyed and quiet this morning. We arrive first at a beautiful basilica. Irini, our guide, teaches us about the outside while a man sings inside. The echoes give me shivers although I cannot understand it.

We have to come back after the service, so we visit the archaeological museum, and see some really cool finds from the area. I realize what a close connection this island has to the trading centers of the Mediterranean; you can see a connection with Egypt in the art and feel the importance these Cycladic islands had as an ancient religious center.

We stop in a cafe shop and get hot cocoa, and it is perfect for this grey morning. It picks us all up, and by the time we get outside the sun is peaking through and the wind is blowing the clouds fiercely across the sky. We check out the basilica, it is heavy with incense and oldness. The icons are beautiful. We check out the chapel and the area where baptisms occurred, trying to imagine what it felt like for the person who believed that they were entering a new, holy life.

After we leave the church we drive to the marble quarries. I try to picture the process, but I can't understand how it was done. People would have had to drag the marble to ships, to be spread over the Mediterranean. Marble from this very place was spread all over ancient Greece and regions far removed.

Our next destination is another church, and an area that feels deserted. Irini tells us that many Athenians own the pure white houses here and come in the summers. It is slightly eerie beating the summer crowds, and the cold wind is biting. We eat a delicious lunch sheltered from the wind. Mine is spaghetti with feta, tomatoes, and olives. I am really going to miss the food back home.

Back to our hotel, and the rest of this afternoon and evening we have to relax and even get to sleep in a little tomorrow before we continue to Naxos.

Reasons for Studying History

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Fri, 09 May 2008 18:39:00 +0000

Yesterday afternoon was crazy fun, Carly and I met these two guys around our age and got coffee with them and got to know each other. It was so cool to hang out with some locals and get their opinions on Greece, what they do for fun, and learn a few Greek words. They had some very interesting perspectives about foreign populations in Greece, and it was kinda cool to hear their ideas on the issue. We walked out this narrow, stone promontory, cold wind whipping crashing waves over the top to this ancient fortress on the water. It was totally an adventure to get out there and inside the circular tower it was totally calm and guarded from the wind. It was definitely one of those unique, fate kind of experiences that you get, and one of the reasons I love trying to meet some new people and have a little adventure. This moment will stand out as one of my faves this trip.

That evening I ate with Aislyn, Heather, Keli. We ate dinner at this cute place right against the sea. We walked around for a bit and got a drink from a bar. It was so nice to sit and relax, and wander through the maze of white to fall into bed, knowing we -finally- get to sleep in.

This morning I got up, grabbed breakfast and packed my bags, ran into the town one last time to get stamps and some postcards. It’s sad to leave this tiny town after I feel like I’ve gotten to know it so well. I feel a really special connection here. Our group sets off for the short ferry hop over to Naxos. I’m so excited to see what this island will be like.

When I got on the ferry I was intrigued by this very distinctive looking man. He totally looked like a rocker. I’m talking like Ozzy Osbourne caliber here. He had skinny jeans on, a black hoodie, long, curly brown hair, dark, chiseled features, and these brown peaceful eyes. I don't know what it was about him that just instantly fascinated me, but for some reason I just was totally inspired or something. I got up the guts to go meet him and asked if he was a musician. It turns out he is, he plays traditional Greek music and is from Crete. He will be playing in Naxos tonight. Talking to him was another of those jewel moments for me, he seemed totally happy and at peace, and we talked about some deep things like people aiming for happiness.

I told him that one of the reasons I like to study history is because I feel depressed about the world now, that looking at the past distracts me, and also shows me that things have always been bad and good, so that I can remember to look for the good now as well as the bad. He said that it is not about happiness or depression, but that everything is wrapped up into one thing. That thought just totally struck me, because I am a very cynical person who tends to deconstruct things and analyze them to a point where I have nothing left to hope in, or build from, or come to any conclusions about. He reminded me of the completeness of things, that you cannot really separate things, that deconstruction is not always the best way to understand something. What a crazy 45-minute ferry ride! You never know what things you will learn when you travel, who you will meet, how you might change and grow. These are the moments worth going for.

Naxos is totally sweet! I cannot believe the change in feeling from Paros to here. Here white and yellow buildings are stacked on each other spreading into the distance like blocks of feta. The bright colors are so invigorating; the people seem totally chill and friendly. The weather is also warm and balmy, a nice change from the biting wind of yesterday. Our hotel is so gorgeous, and the staff there has treated us like something special. It’s my favorite hotel yet, I just want to enjoy the pool and relax, while at the same time I just want to explore the town. We went up to the castle on the top and some sites to look at Cycladic civilization and finds up into the Hellenistic period. It’s hard to imagine people living on these islands for so long, the products that must have traded through these ports would have been so cool to see.

Irini treated us all to ice cream because we were all starting to wilt in the heat and from being tired. (This studying is such hard work!) We ate some lunch in a place by the port, and so far, it was my absolute fave. It was also the cheapest, you can't beat that! I am a vegetarian; I was a little worried about finding stuff but actually I’ve been able to find a lot of great stuff. This place had a vegetarian pita with fries, tomatoes, onions, and tzatsiki, the tangy yogurt sauce that is just SO DELISH. Oh man, that was a good one. Tonight we are meeting to go for a walk before dinner to the temple of Apollo and then eat. I’m so excited we get to stay here for 3 nights.

Aegean Islands: Paros

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Thu, 08 May 2008 18:36:00 +0000

Explore the Power of Belief

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Wed, 07 May 2008 18:27:00 +0000

This morning we woke up to go visit the Oracle of Apollo at Delphi. The mountain air up here is so crisp. Red, purple, and yellow wildflowers speckle the rocks and the ruins as we climb to the museum. The most notable find in the museum is the statue of the Charioteer, nearly intact and original. We go outside into the morning light and make our ascent.

This area has the same underlying feeling as the old Buddhist temple I visited on a mountainside outside of Tokyo, Japan. I associate this feeling with a holy place, a deep, nature reverberation that echoes in the rocks and cliffs and trees. Dara made the comment that you can really see from looking around why people would come here for answers. There is such a connection to the environment, to nature, that it brings about a spiritual vibration of refreshment, renewal, and calm. The overlying tones of this feeling are very different from the Buddhist temple. There the tones are heavy, incensed, wooden, while here they are light and air.

Overlooking the temple where the priestess underwent her drugged trance, you can feel the power of this place. You see also the true power lay in the hands of the priests, the speakers of the prophecies. People pay so much into these rituals and traditions and really believe them, the power of that belief, the magnitude of it, is truly astounding. Wars were ended on the decree of the Oracle, major historical moments were guided by the interpreted utterances of the Oracle.

We climb further to the athletic track and get a good picture of the layout of the site, and also the impression of how much work it was to bring the materials from so far away to build such a monumental site. This is the center of the world. It’s very naval, according to the myth which tells of Zeus releasing two eagles, one from the East and one from the West, and here is the place they met. The mountains tower above cascading into a sea of 10 million olive trees and plunging to the sea. This area is at once pristine, untouched, and at the same time heavily modified and hallowed by mankind.

We arrived in Athens a few hours ago and will leave at 5:30 in the morning to catch our ferry to the island of Paros. I am so excited to swim in the sea and check out the different side of Greece.

Shopping in Syntagma Square

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Sat, 03 May 2008 18:23:00 +0000

Forbidden to actually go up to see the Acropolis until the trip officially starts, Carly, Dara and I walk around the area known as the Placa, which is filled with touristy shops, lovely street side restaurants and cafes, and picturesque buildings glorifying old Athens.

The people watching there are top notch, and there is plenty of attention to go around for us girls, whether it is being solicited by smooth talking restaurant workers or whistled at by guys. Just exploring, getting the feel for the atmosphere and experiencing the area keeps us amused all day, we go up to Syntagma Square for some shopping and a lot of walking.

That night, we meet Dr. Martin for dinner, tzatsiki, retsini wine, bread,
and some incredible Greek food. Tomorrow, the trip will officially start with us
checking into the Philipos Hotel and meeting everyone for dinner.

The Trip Begins

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Sat, 03 May 2008 14:26:00 +0000

That night, we meet Dr. Martin for dinner, tzatsiki, retsini wine, bread, and some incredible Greek food. Tomorrow, the trip will officially start with us checking into the Philipos Hotel and meeting everyone for dinner.

History Geek Tears Up

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Sat, 03 May 2008 14:24:00 +0000

The metro stop for the Acropolis lets out in such a way that, just around the corner, it's there, suddenly, and you are staring it in the face, overcome. It's impressive but there is something so light about it, it isn’t imposing. I can see the Parthenon, the Parthenon.

My imagination soars to fill in what it could have looked like in ancient times, but I know it must fall pitifully short. Ages old it is still breathtaking, and I get what I call the "history jitters".

I guess I have to explain what a ridiculous geek I am about history. The reason I study it is for these moments, these times when I am utterly overcome and speechless just trying to fathom what life was like in a different place and at a different time.

It’s when all my thoughts that had been spinning so wildly just come to a complete standstill, deconstructed, in awe. It makes me shiver, gives me goose bumps and sometimes tears just well up. So I know it’s like totally dorky, but that’s me and that’s why I am here, in Greece, studying this fascinating civilization, hoping to get a tiny glimpse, filling in the gaps of my imagination with ruins, texts, and art.

Advice for Traveling Abroad

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Sat, 03 May 2008 14:23:00 +0000

Here's my advice so far 1. Map. 2. Good Suitcase with wheels. 3. Directions to your hotel from the airport BEFORE you get to Greece. 4. Call your bank so the fraud department doesn’t think some crazy Athenian stole your identity and blocks your funds.

Other than those slight disruptions that come with pretty much all international travels, the trip has been totally heaven. The people here are chill and appreciate our ridiculous attempts at the language. Even the animals here have adopted this attitude of calm serenity, there are these dogs everywhere just laying passed out, or playing with each other happily like a bunch of sloths.

We ate some good sandwiches on a street cafe and tumbled into bed early, thanks to jet lag, which was a problem because we found ourselves sitting out on the balcony of our hotel talking at 2:30 in the morning, wide awake. We rested until sunrise and got ready to explore Athens.

Where's the hotel?

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Sat, 03 May 2008 14:22:00 +0000

The first thing noted about Athens was the freshness. There is something to clean and cleansing about it. It is unlike some of the other major cities I have gotten to travel to through Fort Lewis College, including Tokyo and Paris, which are beautiful in other ways. Here there is a good vibe, a light, refreshing, calmness. White buildings pepper the hills as we ride the train into the city, the Greek writing looks so foreign but if you pay attention you start to pick up its structure.Carly, Dara, Matthew and I get out of the metro at Syntagma Square, a pretty large station near the parliament building. We get up and out of metro (which I want to add is easy to navigate and clean) and that’s when our excitement is a little checked, as we realized we only had a faint idea where our hotel was. We decided to ask for directions.Now, it is one thing to walk up to somebody and stumble your way through Greek asking for directions. It’s a totally different thing to actually understand the response, especially when you are so proud of yourself for asking that you're not actually paying attention to the answer. After three wrong metro stops, one wrong direction, five helpful Athenians and four hours later, we stumble into our hotel, which ended up being in the port city of Pireas in the southwest of Athens. It's beautiful there; you can see the ocean and all the countless cruise ships at the docks. Of course, all we could see was the cobbled ground in front of us as we dragged our luggage a kilometer to the hotel. Carly had this old lady bag we called Annie that kept tipping over. It had these little tiny wheels like cankles so we started calling it "canks". We abandoned poor canks the next day for "Greece Lightning", a hot little red suitcase with large wheels.

Arriving in Athens

noreply@blogger.com (Melissa McConnell) — Sat, 03 May 2008 14:20:00 +0000

There is absolutely nothing in the world like this feeling. Sitting on the plane, half giddy, mostly delirious` and near comatose from traveling, when you hear that announcement, first in Greek, "We are now making our final descent into Athens". Athens! Are you serious? I still can't believe I am in Greece right now. Leaning over two of the other students on this trip to peer out the window, I can see the blue sea and the islands and cliffs shooting above the water, the early morning light striking them into something wholly majestic. I cant stop fantasizing what it would have looked like centuries and centuries ago, but the images flee my mind. It is too much to fathom that right here is where the history I have been learning and reading about my whole life was just a reality.