Michelsberg Tailoring

A Snappy New Year

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Sat, 14 Jan 2012 14:54:00 +0000

Another year, another dollar, and after what has been a highly indulgent Christmas, it seems another chin.

For ten gloriously gluttonous days I put my feet up, except for an enjoyable trip to Helmsley for a photo-shoot with two new customers.

Introducing brothers George and James Craig, from the band, 'One Night Only.'

They knocked on my door after spotting the particularly dandified double-breasted waistcoat in scarlet doeskin I'd made for Jack at Jeffery-West shoes.

The clincher was when he explained to them that a button was missing 'because a girl had ripped it off.' Priceless. PR from the gods.

Beers were drunk, ideas exchanged and I think the results speak for themselves.

George, the lead singer, went for a very fitted, single-breasted number with slim notch lapels and cut-away fronts.I love the flash of lining on the cuffs and the bright yellow melton under-collar.

James, the drummer, went for an electric blue, silky Super 130’s cloth from Dormeuil, with brown velvet top-collar and jets. There’s a brilliant white lining with flashes of velvet in the cuff vents and cloth covered buttons.

These guys are going places, quite literally. George is currently playing with the rest of the band in Rio, whilst James is in Vegas as best man for a mate's wedding.

Dealing with them has been a genuine pleasure and the fact that my threads are tearing it up in Brazil and Sin City, puts a big fat smile on my face.

AND NOW FOR SOME BIG NEWS.

Never happy standing still and doing the same old thing, I am thrilled, delighted, excited and buzzing to announce a new line to the Michelsberg armoury.

It's a top-of the tree, earth-shatteringly awesome, fully bespoke, full canvas product.

A first fitting of which is shown below.

Like an Aston Martin, it's beautiful to look at and will turn heads, but when it comes to performance and handling it's what's underneath the bonnet that counts.

The construction under the cloth has a number of layers. First the body canvas (which goes right down to the bottom of the coat), then the chest canvas, or hair-cloth, and finally a layer of domette (it looks a bit like felt) to protect the wearer from the prickly canvas underneath.

These three layers are then pad stitched (sewn) together and crucially shaped and moulded by hand to create a soft armour with which to flatter and caress the wearer's body.

The lapels are hand-padded which means the cloth and a layer of silecia (a bit like linen) is folded and sewn together by hand to achieve a beautiful 'roll,' rather than the flat lapels you get with many off-the-peg garments.

This folks, is as good as it gets. A herd of sartorially astute, stampeding wilder beast would stop dead in their tracks and gasp at the mind-blowing quality of such workmanship.

The clip below gives you a quick peek at the V12, 48 Valve, work of art that lurks beneath Huddersfield's finest.

There's about sixty hours of hand-sewing involved which provides a wonderfully artisan feel to the garment. As well as the time spent in building the internal structure of the coat, it's the time invested in the finishing that takes things to another level.

The edges of the fronts, pocket flaps, cuff vents and out-breast welt are all prick-stitched by hand. The lining is hand-felled (sewn) all the way round and eased into the armholes. Finally, the lapel hole and every button hole is meticulously hand sewn in silk twist thread as can be seen in the footage below.

It's what you'd expect if you went to the blue blooded houses on Savile Row, and that's been my goal from the start. To be able to offer my customers a world-class service with a product to match. The real deal. The best of the best.

This January has got off to a belting start and I've got more news to reveal in my next blog. So until then it's back to my pins and chalk and hopefully a few trips to the David Lloyd health club to try and get that chin sorted out.

Sew this is Christmas!

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 16:41:00 +0000

Last Sunday I enjoyed a perfect quiet moment to myself. Wallowing by the log fire with a belly full of lamb shanks, I raised a glass of Chianti to the newly installed Christmas tree in the corner and looked forward to my favourite time of the year.

To me, Christmas is all about the build-up, and mine has well and truly begun. Last Monday evening was the final of the Michelsberg Debating Competition.

Held at the Malmaison Hotel in Leeds, there was a really festive vibe as judges, teams and guests enjoyed carols and a glass of red wine, amongst twinkling lights and candles in the Chateaux lounge.

Jo Bancroft, trainee solicitor at Ford & Warren, won the award for Best Speaker, her prize, a bespoke suit, which will be made for her future husband when they get married in September 2012.

The motion was, 'This house would rather be East than West,' and judges included (from the left) myself, David Parkin (TheBusinessDesk.com), Adam Roney (Best Speaker 2010, ex Eversheds, now Founder of Calls9) and Andrew Stubbs QC (St. Pauls Chambers)

Sairish Tahir and Tom Woodhead of Pinsent Masons, pictured above, were voted Best Team and other finalists included Alex Cook & Dorothea Shreiver of Eversheds, and Nicola Collins and Anna Moran of Clarion Solicitors.

Other participating firms included DLA, Gordons, Squire Sanders Hammonds, DWF, Addleshaw Goddard, Cohen Cramer, Shulmans and BPP Law School.

The event was everything I’d hoped for – it was fun, edgy, and I have nothing but admiration for everyone who took part. Next year I will be opening it up to trainee barristers and young professionals outside the legal sector.

Then on Thursday evening it was my Christmas Drinks party.

Despite the filthy weather, well over a hundred customers and suppliers came to support me and let their hair down. What a buzz. It was my party and if alcohol consumption is anything to go by, we had a ball.

It was a bit like a private members club for people with a shared love of fine threads and a healthy disregard for clean living.

One of the great things about tailoring is that over time, many of your customers become friends, such as Steve and Anje in the photo below.

I got a real kick out of them all enjoying each others company and devouring my liquid hospitality provided by the legendess that is Miss Sophie Bratt.

The Christmas spirit was well and truly raining down upon (and into) us and to cap it off, I had my youngest daughter's christening on Sunday.

There are few places more beautiful, charming and special to me than The Priory Church at Bolton Abbey, and the Rev. James Turnbull made what is always a joyful event, truly magical for us all.

Our best friends made it up from London to be with us and here is Paul Flynn, The Godfather, with the lady of the hour, Elizabeth Jasmine.

So, to all you 'Bah! Humbug' gibbons out there, I'll say it loud, and I'll say it clear. I love Christmas! Things are winding down a bit, my brother and his family are heading over from Melbourne and the final of 'Strictly' and 'MasterChef' are still to come. It's all good.

Wishing you all a truly wonderful time of it over the next couple of weeks and here's to more fun, fine suits and new friendships in the year 2012.

Sharp suits and sniffles.

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:29:00 +0000

As I staggered into the coat-makers with half a dozen fittings in each hand, my bag over my shoulder and a length of cloth and lining under my arm, I recalled the words of Thomas Edison: "Genius is one percent inspiration, ninety-nine percent perspiration."

I raised my eyes to the sky, thanked the Lord for Right Guard and made a mental note to book in for an IQ test.

This month has been full-on. Absolutely Mental. It hasn't helped that I've been suffering from that terrible affliction known as man-flu, but like many a chap, I've put on a brave face and battled on without a whimper, or, request for sympathy...sniff..

Business has been great and I'm not complaining. I've delivered some of my finest suits yet, real Michelsberg specials, including a stunning, very classical dinner suit in Summer Kid Mohair and Cashmere from Taylor & Lodge (as worn by Daniel Craig in Quantum of Solace) and a couple of belters for the lead singer and drummer of 'One Night Only.'

I love the contrast of the brown velvet collar and pocket jets against the electric blue Dormeuil cloth (made-up using the reverse side). It's extravagant, louche and wonderfully decadent.

Then there's this fella made in the finest Italian Flannel from Biella - that stripe and acid yellow lining just oozes confidence and attitude.

On top of the day job, I've been running the Michelsberg Debating Competition and last night was the second round.

All the big law firms of Yorkshire are involved and so far Pinsent Masons and Clarion are through to the final. Co-ordinating twenty-four young lawyers and ten barristers hasn't been easy, but so far so good, and the final takes place this coming Monday at the Malmaison Hotel in Leeds.

Then I've been organising the Michelsberg Christmas drinks party which kicks off on the 8th December from 6pm. It's to coincide with carol singers and late night shopping at the Victoria Quarter. I've ordered the bubbles, glasses, bar staff so all I need now are my thirsty customers and suppliers. They haven't let me down yet :-)

And finally, there's been some very exciting developments in terms of our tailoring offering to customers. Since the move to the VQ, we've started doing bespoke shirts and so far I've delivered just under seventy of them. One customer, a Mr. Geoff Shepherd, likened them to "high-end business pyjamas." I only wish I'd started selling them sooner.

But as far as our threads go, the big news is yet to come and will be revealed in my next blog. In the meantime, it's back to my box of tissues and book on Quantum Physics. Sniff.

Trip to Shanghai

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Sun, 30 Oct 2011 09:26:00 +0000

It's four hours before my flight home and I'm closeted in the cigar bar of the JC Mandarin Hotel, a bottle of Tsing Tao beer in my left hand, a knock off Montblanc pen in my right, trying to find words that do justice to the incredible city that is Shanghai.

Here for a mixture of business and pleasure, it's blown my mind. Whilst Europe shivers from an ill wind of debt, China sunbathes confidently in a Gucci G-string.

What a city. It's bold, brassy, bristles with energy, has the swagger of John Wayne and more grunt than Monica Seles. I was staying just off the Nanjing Road, their equivalent of Bond Street.

Perched by the fountains opposite Plaza 66 (home to some of the flashiest frock and clock shops on the planet) I watched the world go by. It's bonkers. Utter Madness. Taxis terrorise bag laden shoppers like angry wasps and the highway code boils down to survival of the fittest.

Cash registers are going chicken oriental. Paris Hilton couldn't stand the pace. It's the Wild West meets Beverley Hills. The streets smell of lead, duck pancakes and money.

I was told I had to visit the Alfred Dunhill store on the Huai Hai Road. Owned by the Richemont group it's one of the coolest set-ups I've come across. You wander down a discreet little path to arrive in front of two 1920s neoclassical style villas. The one on the left is Dunhill, the right, Vacheron Constantin, with a private members club above.

There's a covered walkway between the two, a quaint little garden, rattan chairs and parasols. It's like being blasted back to the days of the British Raj, a place for sipping a Gin & Tonic and then heading out to bag a tiger after lunch.

I shopped till I dropped, ate duck's tongue and hairy crab, hit 'The Bund' and gawped at the Skyline, partied at the Mint Club with the Editor of Twist Magazine who was over for 'Intertextile', and had a cracking night out with the Sales Director of John Fosters, who was visiting customers in Asia.

It wasn't all picnics and lashings of Ginger beer. I visited a trade show and hooked up with some London based tailors who are at the top of their game offering truly outstanding garments. Without being too melodramatic (not like me at all) they were pretty inspirational and have made me even more determined to keep driving and get better at what we do. A plan is beginning to form in my mind but I'm going to keep my powder dry for now... ;-)

I checked out the Shiliu Puhong Qixiang Cloth Fabric Markets, where the quality was variable, and popped in to see a couple of tailors who've been recommended to me. One, The Humsuit Company, the other, Dave's Custom Tailoring. Here I am below with one of his coat makers.

Now I know the latter sounds a bit like one of Del boy's mates but the quality seemed excellent. The lapels and interlinings (canvas, silesia, domette) are hand-padded, meaning they are rolled, shaped and sewn into place by hand, and the button holes made by hand.

It's been a full on month. As well as the day job and my trip, I've been doing the preparations for the Michelsberg Debating Competition which kicks off again at the end of November. All the big legal firms in Yorkshire have signed up with the final on the 5th December.

So it's foot down now until the end of the year. No more jollies, no more trips to foreign shores, just cracking on with the daily grind and putting things in place for the next chapter in my company's development.

Wishing you all the best in the run up to Christmas and remember, a Michelsberg brolly, silk tie or bespoke shirt would make someone a lovely prezzie :-)

Stormy weather

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 09:03:00 +0000

Summer has scoffed her deep-fried peanut butter sandwich and left the building.

This morning my foot winced a little as it vacated the warmth of the duvet, leaving me reaching for a weighty double breasted number to brave a slight chill in the air that I'd forgotten existed.

The rain lashed down as I left the car park. Cowering under my umbrella I scuttled off to work, passing non-brollied people pulling epic rain-faces, gurning away like Blake Fielder-Civil after a big weekend in Ibiza.

I've already delivered quite a few overcoats in preparation for the onslaught of Winter. Classic covert coats with velvet collars and bright linings are always popular and I'm currently making a couple of things that are a bit different.

Today I'm doing a first fitting on 'The Swashbuckler.' It's very long and heavily skirted, inspired by the caped character in the Sandeman Port adverts with a pinch of Pirates of the Caribbean and Withnail & I (one of my favourite films) thrown in for good measure.

Something that won't have escaped your sartorial radar is the popularity of Tweed at the moment. I've blogged about it in a previous post and have recently got some bunches in that would knock the balls off a mighty elephant.

Bold over-checks and LSD inspired designs are the name of the game here, vastly removed from the dour browns and greens favoured by damp Scottish gamekeepers as they grumble into their Whiskeys.

That said, you don't need colour to make Tweed look stylish. Check out this little baby we made for a recent customer. It's a very fitted three button coat and I'm loving the patch pockets and flap on the out-breast welt.

I'm also a big fan of the Storm Collar, particularly when it's worn with the collars up, à la Eric Cantona. It's tough, confident, full of swagger and says don't call me names or I'll kick you dans la tête.

But the French man, like myself, would snort in disgust at an 'ooh ahh' collar worn on a lounge suit, like the one I spotted on Peter Jones whilst watching Dragons Den last night.

Utterly, teeth-clenchingly, balls-rising-upwardly grim. A storm-collar was designed to fight the wind and keep out the cold and should only be found on overcoats and garments of substance.

What on earth was he thinking? Maybe the air conditioning gets a bit full on in the back of his Maybach but that is still no excuse for placing what is tantamount to a penis extension above the lapel. It's a veritable carbuncle and ultimately sacrilegious towards a silky Super 150's cloth. Shameful.

Now it's just possible that I'm getting my knickers in a twist over nothing. To paraphrase Withnail, the fact that the best tailoring Peter Jones has ever seen is above his appendix doesn't mean anything.

Perhaps I need to chill out a little, and that, my friends, is the plan for next week.

I will be heading to Croyde Bay with my family to indulge my passion and love for surfing. Yes, if Mother Nature is kind to me, by Saturday lunchtime I'll be top-to-toe in rubber and up to my nipples in the healing waters of the Atlantic ocean.

And later that night, as I flounce into The Thatch Inn and demand the finest wines available to humanity, I will politely inform the landlord, that I'm not from London you know.

The Church of Good Taste

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 11:23:00 +0000

What's the deal with blokes who insist on getting their kit off in the City centre?

I crossed paths with this chap yesterday morning, his nipple rings flashing at me in the glorious sunshine. Brave as ever, my grip tightened on the handle of my Whangee Umbrella as I prepared to defend myself against this unsavoury character.

Luckily, he had no designs on my wallet, nor waistcoat, the latter which I would have gladly provided in a bid get some of that pasty skin off the streets.

One place you can rest assured of no superfluous papillae is the calm, genteel, wood panelled sanctum of English shoe making that is Church's store in the Victoria Quarter, Leeds.

It's just a soda-syphon and secret handshake short of a gentleman's club and here are Paul and Patrick who are it's guardians.

I am of the firm opinion that every man should have at least one pair of Church's in his wardrobe. I've currently got my beady eyes on the pair on the left in the photo below.

Perfect with a pair of straight-leg jeans, open neck shirt, charity bracelet and a glass of Champers, for 'dancing' the night away in Mahiki with Wills and Kate. Yah?

The chaps at Church's are lovely guys, incredibly helpful and very knowledgeable about the craftsmanship that goes into making a pair of Northampton's finest. They truly understand the importance of customer service and that is something to be applauded.

Patrick has even treated me to some of his personal stash of shoe polish and is one of the few people on Earth who can actually out-talk me. On my last visit he was kind enough to provide me with a guide on How To Look After You Shoes which includes "Grandma's shoe polish recipe" and how to get rid of shoe odor.

I've also set up a discussion about shoes on our Facebook Page and would love to get your comments on other makers and your favourite styles.

As the humidity and heat ramp up as we move through August, it can be a tough time for men when it comes to dressing correctly. The danger of short-sleeve shirts, cargo shorts and exhibitionists flashing their nipples at all and sundry is never far away.

Shoes are also potentially dangerous ground. Most men's feet are an abomination and Prada sandals can be the kiss of death to an unruly toe-nail. Getting it right isn't easy. Boat shoes - a bit rah? Crocks - god no. Which, I suppose leaves loafers.

I like the suede pair of Church's below. I can just see them dismounting a dusty Vespa Scooter and settling down for an espresso and grappa in a shady cafe in Tuscany.

Or there are these babies from Jefferey West, which you might find tucked under a kingsize day-bed in Ibiza, awash with empty bottles of Grey Goose, Cristal and sleeping super-models.

I can't stress enough how important it is to wear quality footwear. It say's more about you than than any other accessory and is worth the investment in getting it right.

So here's wising you, your feet and yes, even your damn nipples, a thoroughly enjoyable Summer.

Fancy a poke?

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Wed, 27 Jul 2011 08:48:00 +0000

Damn that Zuckerberg bloke. I've resisted Facebook for years, but I've had yet another customer extolling the virtues of 'social networking' and how it could benefit my business, so I've decided to take a shaky step towards the dark-side and start a Facebook page for Michelsberg Tailoring.

I'm still not entirely convinced. I've always thought it a virtual slobberfest for American adolescents, techo-geeks and paedos to oggle pictures of Katie Price wannabes, driven to tell the world when they've waxed and what they've just eaten at McDonalds.

As my opening party proved, you can't beat getting together in the flesh with like-minded people, but I do think this Facebook malarkey has legs. My customers come from a variety of backgrounds with very different tastes but we all appreciate the finer things in life, particularly when it comes to fine threads.

That said, I want to use it as a platform not just to discuss matters of dress, although that is it's primary motive, but perhaps to help point each other in the direction of things that might bring us pleasure. Perhaps a great barber you use, or fabulous shoe shop, cloth company, restaurant, art exhibition, gentleman's club, the list is endless..

To get the ball rolling, I've started a number of discussions and will be posting pictures of 'things' and people I come across which I think are worthy of debate.

Take this chap for example:

I was on my way to the office and clocked this guy waiting to cross the road. After introducing myself and commenting on the splendour of his attire, he agreed to strike a pose.

Absolutely loving the leather gloves, cane, pocket hanky and check out the pink feather in his hat! Now that's what I call a character.

Twitter, Myspace, Bebo, Linked-in: it's a Brave New World out there and I only hope we can use it to bring some fun and merriment into our inboxes.

So if you dance with the devil and are on Facebook, here's hoping you'll keep your eyes open for things that might tickle our collective fancy and share it with the rest of us.

So long, farewell, auf wiedersehen, adieu

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Mon, 11 Jul 2011 08:29:00 +0000

It's Monday morning and there is a spring in the Michelsberg step. On Thursday night I downed tools and headed off with my family for a long weekend in Runswick Bay on the East Coast.

What a spot. Gobsmackingly beautiful. It's straight out of an Enid Blyton book where kids with beautiful manners eat picnics, take walks and uncover an international smuggling operation run by the lighthouse keeper. I relaxed, ate chips with everything, managed some surfing at Saltburn and even changed a few nappies.

Taking time off to suck the marrow out of life is essential and one person who now has plenty of this ahead of him is Jon Fairweather who retired last Thursday.

A lover of decent brandy, the horses and three piece suits, he is going to be seriously missed by many of us in the tailoring trade throughout the country. He's an incredible coat maker who takes real pride in his work and has taught me a great deal over the last four years. Another tailor at the 'farewell' summed it up when he simply said about his skills, "you won't find one finer."

As Jon hangs up his shears and heads to the South of France and the West Country for some well earned R&R, may I introduce to you all Miss Jules Middlebrook who is chomping at the bit to get started in the world of tailoring.

Here she is, sporting a fabulous skirt made by her own fair hands using Dormeuil offcuts and is about to start a degree in Bespoke Tailoring at the London College of Fashion.

It's very rare I come across somebody who is so passionate and enthusiastic about the trade itself and she is determined to become a cutter. Many young gals, understandably attracted by the perceived glamour of the fashion industry, want to become designers and are often less interested in the craft itself.

Not so in her case and I'm going to do everything I can to help and support her. She's heading down South soon, so, if you are on the Row (or do things the 'old school' way) and think you can offer her some experience, please do get in touch.

Yes, as far as Monday's go, I'm in excellent spirits, made even better by a text from a customer of mine who hit the red carpet last Friday for the Harry Potter Film Premiere.

He has just been featured in the 'Most Stylish Men of the Week' by GQ magazine and I think his Michelsberg three piece looks spot on, particularly with the tie-pin and pocket watch. Nice shoes as well, courtesy of my fellow Victoria Quarter tenant, Churches. Good work Mr. Lewis, you've done Leeds proud :-)

Michelsberg Opening Party

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Tue, 28 Jun 2011 09:10:00 +0000

Six years ago, I was a headhunter in the technology sector. Fast forward to last Thursday evening and I'm playing the piano at 9.30pm outside my own bespoke tailoring shop in the Victoria Quarter, drinking Champagne and enjoying the adrenalin buzz that came with throwing a truly wonderful opening party.

My family were in attendance and serious respect must go to my friends who made it all the way from London (Flynny), Amsterdam (Pete), Bournemouth (The Parrott) and Huddersfield (Alan). Yes, I know Huddersfield isn't that far but you have to understand that 'The Bainer' doesn't like to leave the village.

I was also really chuffed by the support shown from Yorkshire Textiles plc. All the top brass from Dugdales, John Fosters, Taylor & Lodge, Bateman Ogden, Dormeuil, Scabal, Hainsworths, Premier Worsteds and W.T Johnson (who finish the cloth) attended. Some even came bearing gifts, putting paid to the rumour that Yorkshiremen have short arms and deep pockets..

Members of the press and fellow VQ tenants popped in and of course there were my wonderful customers who had made the effort to put on their Michelsberg finest and make the trip into Leeds on a school night. It was an eclectic mix of senior public figures, barristers, bankers, movers and shakers, a mathematics professor, VAT inspector and a couple of guy's who should probably be locked up!

The butterfly's were fluttering at 5.30pm - 'will anybody come? - and then it kicked off. Take a hundred and twenty people, add fifty bottles of Champagne, two great bartenders (Sophie at Harvey Nichols and Greg from the Malmaison) a pianist (Stewart Garden) and I think it's fair to say that fun was had by all.

I made a speech - any excuse to take centre stage! - and was quite sincere when I raised a glass to my customers and suppliers who ultimately make it possible for me to do something that I truly love for a living.

I suppose you only get one opening night and mine went like a dream. I only hope it goes as well for one of my actor customers, Matthew Lewis, when he struts down the red carpet at the next Harry Potter film premiere. He's just taken delivery of a rather sharp black three piece suit in silky smooth Dormeuil cloth. Nice to think my threads will be alongside those wanabees Tom Ford, Armani and Prada!

So there you have it, we are now officially open for business in the VQ. Our recently introduced bespoke shirts are flying out the door and the cash register is ringing. Good news for me. Good news for my family. Good news for my landlord. See you all again at the the Christmas Party :-)

Grand Designs

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Tue, 31 May 2011 11:00:00 +0000

We are just one roll of carpet and a corner sofa away from declaring the new Michelsberg showroom open for business.

There's been no room for pashmina-clad designers flouncing about on this job and even Karen, my architect, rolled her sleeves-up and got stuck in despite a broken finger.

Huge thanks must go to my father-in-law, Les, who has done much of the shop-fitting. He's a motorbike riding man's-man, with a garden shed rammed with more tools than B&Q, and I've actually seen him hammer nails into wood with his bare hands and crush a wasp to death with his fingers.

This is in stark contrast to myself, someone who releases spiders back into the wild and has more shoes than screwdrivers. It's been quite a journey for both of us and there's no doubt we've bonded.

He took me to Homebase to buy my first power-tool (a Black & Decker Compact Mouse Sander) and I convinced him, over a bottle of 15 year old Glenlivit, to try using some hand-cream ("Unusually Rich-But-Not-Greasy-At-All-Hand Cream") generously provided by my neighbour Abi, who runs Kiehls, just below me.

Having a good relationship with your neighbours in vital and luckily I have that in spades with Jack at Jefferey West. He recently asked me to make him a waistcoat for the Victoria Quarter's Mad Hatter's Tea party last Thursday and I think it turned out rather well.

It's a flamboyant, double breasted number with peak lapels and ribbed silk buttons. The cloth is scarlet doeskin, exactly the same as that worn by Prince William on his wedding to the rather gorgeous Kate Middleton, and was produced by A W Hainsworth & Sons Ltd just down the road in Pudsey.

It's a family run firm, led by Thomas Hainsworth, and is one of the few mills remaining who carry out every stage of the manufacturing process, from raw wool selection to finishing.

It won't be long before my opening party on Thursday 23rd June, and as well as my loyal customers, I've invited friends, family and folk in the textile trade to celebrate what is the start of a new chapter for me and the business.

A great idea of Karen's was to create a montage in the waiting room made up of customer testimonials and when I emailed them to ask for a few words, was overwhelmed with the response.

It's been absolutely thrilling watching Karen's vision come to life and I'm chuffed to bits with the finished space. It's everything I wanted and more besides. My suit's have clearly got a lot to live up to!

On the Move

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Sat, 30 Apr 2011 14:01:00 +0000

It's official. Michelsberg Tailoring has finally found a new home for itself and is setting up shop in the Victoria Quarter, Leeds.

Here I am with John Bade, Centre Director of the VQ, after the ink was dry on signing a lease on 24a Queen Victoria Street, literally just round the corner from my favourite shoe shop, Jefferey West.

Hands up, it's a bit of a fancy pants location, with neighbours such as Harvey Nichols, Paul Smith and Louis Vuitton, but as a wee laddie I loved coming here to spank the credit card, drink coffee and watch the pretty gals go by.

More than just a load of posh shops, it's a genuinely beautiful space with stunning frescos and mosaics from the 1900's, a glass ceiling and more marble than a Russian Oligarch could shake his silver-topped stick at, and now I'm a part of it.

It's been quite a journey. Five years ago, the business was born on the kitchen table, and many of my customers have followed me every step of the way, from a series of meeting rooms, serviced offices to even the gym and private dining room at the Malmaison Hotel in Leeds!

I must say I felt rather proud on showing my father round the new gaff and pointing out the family name in gold letters. :-)

Existing customers will be pleased to hear I don't have any plans to increase prices despite the flash address (and even flashier rent) and will continue to stick to my Yorkshire roots and offer outstanding value for money.

Saying that, I'm not standing still for a moment. I will shortly be launching a new Italian style made-to measure line, alongside my British bespoke offering, for customers who prefer a softer construction with a more rounded shoulder.

I'm also working with a new team of tailors to produce a level of construction that will be up there with the finest in the world. In fact that's not entirely true. I want to it to be the best. Aim high and see how far we fall, eh?

Right now, it's a building site with sparkies and shopfitters chucking invoices at me left, right and centre. I have a feeling it's going to be beans on toast for dinner a couple of nights a week but I have no doubt it's going to be worth it, creating a fantastic environment to spoil my customers and give them the hospitality they deserve.

So a new chapter begins. I couldn't have done it without the help, support and patience of Paul Fox, of commercial property agents Fox Lloyd Jones, and David Coleman, of solicitors Lee & Priestley.

Final thanks must go to John Bade and my architect and interior designer, the extremely talented Karen Gill, who recently left behind the security of the pay cheque to set up her own practice.

Team Michelsberg, I salute you. Bring on the opening party!

Well Hung

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Thu, 31 Mar 2011 13:57:00 +0000

Mr Miyagi and I both understand the importance of balance. To quote the great man, "Balance is key. Balance good, karate good. Everything good."

His words of wisdom are just as important to the craft of tailoring as they were to the floppy haired Daniel LaRusso, who broke a thousand pre pubescent hearts in the 1980's as he kicked his way to victory in the film "Karate Kid."

That said, you won't find me doing the crane, waxing cars, or having a pop at helpless insects with chopsticks. Balance, as far as I'm concerned is all about getting a coat to hang perfectly from the shoulders.

A bespoke jacket should resemble a tranquil lagoon without a ripple or crease anywhere on the surface of the cloth. When viewed from the side, the bottom of the coat should point slightly downwards and when viewed from the front, the lapels should sit close to the chest and the fronts fall away gently after the point of buttoning.

If we all had perfect posture and the physique of a Dolce & Gabbana underwear model then there's a chance 'the lagoon' might be achieved with an off-the-pegger. In reality, most of us have to contend with all manner of things that Mother nature has thrown at us, as well as the self-inflicted bumps and lumps that have appeared due to too many long lunches and getting to know Auntie Stella.

It is these imperfections, often called 'figurations' in the trade, that upset the balance of a coat and must be identified during the measuring stage and then provided for when the garment is cut.

They come in many guises - an erect (upright) or stooped posture, shoulders that slope severely, or, where one 'drops,'(slopes) lower than the other. A sway stance whereby a customer stands with his hips forward, a prominent chest, big thighs, skinny legs, moobs, muffin-tops, the list is endless..

Over the years I've probably spent more time checking out men's bodies than Graham Norton and never really switch off my tailoring radar. For example check out the picture below.

Yesterday, I attended a Speed Awareness Course after being caught on camera speeding. After only two minutes in the conference room, I'd spotted that the bloke in front of me had square shoulders (meaning they hardly slope at all). Had he been wearing an off the peg jacket, chances are a horizontal crease would be lurking just under the back of the collar. In fact you can see it happening on his jumper.

The cure for this would be to do a 'square back neck' in the cutting room. Rather than go into what this physically means, all I'll say is that there are many wonderful things that can be done with a pair of shears and some wadding to hide away our little faults and emphasise the good stuff.

This desire to flatter the figure and achieve balance continues throughout the fitting stage where small notches of white thread are sewn into the garment (as can be seen below) to act a bit like mini spirit-levels so we can make sure the garment isn't lopsided and if so, have a marker with which to make adjustments.

But at the end of the day we can't achieve miracles. Someone with a fifty inch tummy is never going to look like Leonardo DiCaprio in one of our suits no matter what we do. As one of my coat-makers once said, "James, I'm a tailor, not a bloody surgeon." Spoken like a true Yorkshireman.

It's a small world

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Mon, 28 Feb 2011 17:07:00 +0000

Dear Friends - on Saturday 26th February at 12.51pm, my second daughter came into the world at great speed weighing a healthy seven pounds and eleven ounces.

Introducing, Miss Elizabeth Jasmine Michelsberg. :-)

Sitting back afterwards with a cup of tea, feeling the happiest man on earth, our paediatrician popped in to check on our little lady...and it was the wife of one of my customers, for whom I made his wedding suit in 2008!

It really is a small world and I could even remember his suit - a three piece in a lovely grey birdseye!

For the next two days, I'll be helping my wife get to grips with what we've gone and done, and then I'd better get back to work as I have a feeling these ladies will grow to have expensive tastes, like their father!

What Ho!

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 13:03:00 +0000

I'm halfway through Stephen Fry's second Autobiography and it's an absolute gem. When it comes to penning polished prose, he's a master and it's a joy to see our beautiful language used with such fondness and aplomb.

As an actor, he was marvellous as the towering, mustachioed 'Melchett' in Blackadder - perhaps the best sitcom ever? - and I also enjoyed his performance as 'Jeeves,' the infinitely wise, dexterous and diplomatic valet in 'Jeeves & Wooster.'

Whilst Blackadder simply reduced me to tears, with Jeeves & Wooster, it was all about the clothes and the lifestyle.

Set in the 1930's, it's focus was on Bertie Wooster, a spoilt, but rather endearing member of the idle rich. His day would begin propped up in bed with tea and toast, whilst Jeeves would draw a bath and help select appropriate dress for the day's high jinx.

This usually involved smoking, drinking Champagne, more smoking, tootling around in an Aston Martin, lunch at The Drones Club, attending raucous parties in New York apartments, or, frolicking with comely young ladies in various Jazz and Swing Clubs.

All very well but let's get focus on the really good stuff - his wardrobe. Dashing, dandified, and for the most part effortlessly elegant. To me it echoes the more positive traits of his character: unrelentingly optimistic, inwardly confident with an air of jaunty nonchalance about it all.

The 1930's was very much about making men look masculine and achieving a 'V' shaped silhouette. Shoulders were padded with wadding to make them look as broad as possible, emphasised further with the use of peak lapels, chests built up with heavy canvas, waists nipped in and the sleeves tapered slightly to the wrist.

Trousers were high waisted 'a la Simon Cowell', often with two forward pleats and turn-ups. Turn-ups? I hear you gasp. Trust me - in a years time they'll be everywhere - Pitti Uomo in Florence (the big menswear show) was recently full of them.

It was a golden period for double-breasted suits, which I adore, despite the inconvenience of having to keep them buttoned up all the time. Waistcoats were a must, often with lapels and boating blazers and Plus Fours were also very common.

This macho look was taken to even dizzier heights by gangsters of the time, such as Capone and Bugsy Siegel, who combined the above with bold and broader pin and chalk stripes, wider trousers, and of course, a Fedora and cigar.

A discussion about the 1930's wouldn't be complete without mentioning a prominent London tailor of the time, Frederick Scholte, who developed what became known as the 'London Cut,' or, 'Drape Cut,' favoured by the likes of Cary Grant.

Without getting into too much technical detail, he, like the Italians today, preferred 'soft-tailoring,' using less construction in a garment. He also incorporated extra material around the shoulders as he felt it made men look slimmer. An extreme of this can be seen in the image below of 'Zoot' suits, which I think you'll agree should never be allowed to come back to haunt us.

Yes, the 1930's was a good decade to have fun, and if the dark nights, cold winds and Christmas credit card bills are weighing you down, then a dose of Jeeves and Wooster is just the ticket.

In fact, I've gone one better and treated myself to a 'Bertie Special' - a new suit complete with double breasted waistcoat, washed down with a Vodka Martini. Pip Pip!

A new home for a new year.

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Thu, 06 Jan 2011 12:22:00 +0000

Remember when our Queen had her 'Annus horribilis'? The year was 1992 and Prince Andrew divorced Fergie after she was caught sucking her boyfriend's toes, then Diana spilt the beans about Charles & Camilla in her tell-all book, Princess Anne divorced Captain Mark Phillips and to cap it off, Windsor Castle caught fire.

Well, December has been my 'Mensis Horribilis.' My daughter had a week in hospital with pneumonia, I got the flu, my diary was annihilated by the snow, my parents house has been ravaged by extensive water damage and I've been mucked around and blatantly lied to by commercial property agents during my search for a new showroom.

That said, we are now fit and well and the New Year has got off to a great start thanks to a wonderful stay in the Lake District. The picture I've taken below is the view from Orrest Head, above the town of Windermere, which inspired Wainwright to devote his life to walking these fells.

The short but steep climb was the perfect way to walk off a long lunch of black-pudding, pork belly and sticky toffee pudding, washed down with a couple of pints of Tag Lag with a fine malt whiskey and coffee to finish. The venue was the Drunken Duck in Ambleside, pictured below, and I'd also recommend The Punchbowl Inn at Crosthwaite.

It's now back to work and I'm delighted to say we have moved into new offices at Calls Wharf in Leeds, pictured below.

I'm chuffed to bits with the new set up. The location is awesome and easy for my customers to get to, it's right by the river, has great feng shui and is the perfect place to base myself in the short term whilst I continue my search for long term premises.

So here's to a great 2011 for us all. Oh, and I forgot to mention I've got another daughter due next month. :-)

Michelsberg Debating Competition

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Wed, 01 Dec 2010 09:59:00 +0000

Hats off to Yorkshire's legal eagles who yesterday stuck two fingers up at the weather and bravely stomped through the snow to take part in the grand final of the Michelsberg Debating Competition.

Twenty eight trainees from fourteen of the biggest legal firms in Yorkshire took part, with Adam Roney & Pete Mills (Eversheds), Maria Akbani & Victoria McClintock (Pinsent Masons), Adrian Mansbridge & Claire Farrell (DWF) and Emma Deighan & Max Swindley (Cobbetts) winningse their respective qualifying rounds and securing a place in the final, held at the Malmaison Hotel in Leeds.

After canapés and a much needed glass of mulled wine, competitors and their supporters settled down to do battle, the motion for the evening, "This House Believes there must always be the poor."

Judges for the evening's festivities included Andrew Stubbs QC from St Pauls barristers chambers, Khadim Al' Hassan, from No 6 barristers Chambers, Paul Aber from College of Law York (sporting the most magnificent moustache for 'Mo'vember), and myself.

What came next was everything I'd hoped for. People spoke with confidence, humour, passion, intelligence and conviction, vehemently challenging each others arguments throughout the proceedings. I have nothing but respect for people who are willing to stand up in front of an audience with minimal preparation and come under fire from some of the sharpest legal minds in the business.

As a debater you need to be able to think on your feet, roll with the punches, get the crowd on side and shoot down your competitors. After the dust had settled, the deliberations began and it didn't take long for us to unanimously decide that Adam Roney of Eversheds was 'best in show'.

Here he is pictured below, second from the left, with judges Khadim, myself, Paul and Andrew also in the line up. His prize, a Michelsberg bespoke suit for his troubles, well worth a few chillblaines and a increase in blood pressure.

Best team was Adrian Mansbridge and Claire Farrell of DWF, pictured below. They also did exceptionally well in their qualifying round, where teams came under extreme pressure from judge Andrew Haslam of St Pauls Chambers, 'slugger extrordinaire,' who has iron hands, elegantly wrapped in a pair of velvet gloves. :-)

It was agreed by all that the event had been a real success allowing lawyers in different firms to get together, have fun and flex their little grey cells. I will be repeating it on an annual basis and am looking at turning it into a National competition (including 'War of the Roses,' perhaps, North Vs South).

Thanks to all of you in the participating firms who helped to make this happen and here's to the next one.

It's Coming Home

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Thu, 18 Nov 2010 16:07:00 +0000

Shears are being sharpened and the knives are out as the young guns of the tailoring trade prepare to do battle in the next "Golden Shears" tournament.

It's a bi-annual competition and I'm proud to say that we made it to the final in 2009. This year I have two young ladies on board who are representing Michelsberg Tailoring.

First up, Miss Louise Winestone who is pictured below adjusting her "toile," derived from the French word for linen cloth, which is basically a mock-up of a garment made in cheap material to test a pattern.

Louise, a graduate from Fashion College, was recently sponsored by us to travel with me to Pitti Uomo in Florence to help source manufacturing partners for forthcoming collections. She's incredibly talented, a true grafter with impressive technical skills and driven to succeed. I'm really pleased with how it's coming on. From a design point of view, there's a nod to the Michelsberg house style, such as a closely fitted silhouette and over-sized peak lapels, but she's stamped her own take on things with very cut away fronts and the length of the coat is shorter than usual.

One thing that I learnt from last years event is that whilst our garment (a tweed number with purple velvet trim) looked flamboyant in the workrooms, it mellowed out under the glare of the spot-lights during the cat-walk show. So, this time, we've selected a cloth with so much attitude, that it will knock the mighty balls off an elephant.

The second waver of the Michelsberg flag is Heather Stockwell, a second year student doing a foundation degree in fashion Design and Manufacture.

She, along with her fellow students, had to pitch design ideas to myself, Bill Macbeth (MD of the Textile Centre of Excellence) and Sam Hudson (Head of Fashion for Kirklees College) as part of a joint collaboration between us all to promote young design talent in Yorkshire.

Bottom line - this girl stood out from the pack and in my opinion is seriously gifted. Pictured below cutting out her paper patterns, her favourite designer is Jil Sander and she aspires to have her own label.

Her garment will be made up in "Yorkshire DNA" cloth woven at the Textile Centre in Huddersfield (see previous blog), and she will also be using their recently introduced manufacturing facilities which have been set-up to help young designers produce sample garments.

As for the design, check out her toile below - it's certainly different! I love the lapel style and layered look that she's got going on. It's a million miles away from classic Michelsberg, but I can imagine the Japanese going mad for it in Harvey Nichs.

And that's important - not sticking with what you know. Keeping an open mind, finding talent and giving it room to breathe. I have no doubt that Heather, with hard work and a little luck, is going to have a glittering future ahead of her.

So the stage is set with Louise and Heather the key players. As narrator, I have a message for the CEO of Gieves & Hawkes: - don't forget to pack the trophy Mr. Henderson, because this year, it's coming home.

It's Cuffing Winter!

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Fri, 15 Oct 2010 10:14:00 +0000

The days of grilled fish and a lingering G'n'T after work are gone. Winter is upon us and it's time to pull up the drawbridge, uncork the red, slam a pie in the oven and welcome back the captains of crap TV into out homes. May I propose a toast to Messers Sugar, Forsythe, Michel Roux Jnr, and the modern day Cowley that is Sir Harry Pearce.

It's also a time to sort out the wardrobe. Light grey suits in floaty nine ounce cloths must give way to heavier twelve ounce weights in darker tones, with Flannels, Corduroy, Moleskin and Tweeds getting their turn in the spotlight.

As far as business goes, overcoats and winter jackets are the order of the day, and we are up to our eyes in dinner suits for forthcoming award ceremonies, balls, dinners, and Christmas parties.

But every now and then we get the chance to do something different. Here I am below with Richard, a new customer who shares my taste in Jeffery West shoes and sharply tailored bespoke suits.

He's just taken delivery of a rather dashing three piece to be christened at York races. It's made up in a modern, golden-brown herringbone design incorporating a striking orange over-check with chocolate brown velvet collar and jetted pockets.

It also incorporates those little extras that might be frowned upon by traditionalists but warm the very cockles of my heart. The devil, as they say, is in the detail, and life wold be dull without a little misbehaviour. Like many men, I'm a fan of the 'working cuff,' whereby the button holes are cut and sometimes sewn by hand, allowing the wearer to undo the cuff buttons.

I think they hark back to the days when it was frowned upon if a gentlemen removed his jacket in public. A well healed chap at the opera, could pop into the gents at half-time, undo his cuffs, roll back his sleeves, wash his hands and head back out for a glass of fizz without, heaven forbid, showing his shirt.

Wrongly, it's become a mark of 'bespoke' and I have seen them incorporated in 'off-the-peggers.' Whilst it is never going to be as important as other key areas of construction, I think it's a nice touch like the one pictured below, particularly when combined with a flash of velvet, or lining, under the vent where the buttons sit.

As you can see, it's rather subtle but will catch the eye of a fine filly when you open the car door of your Aston, or wink at the lesser dressed guy in front of you at the boardroom table when you sign that meaty contract.

And then there is the humble 'flower loop' like the one pictured below - it's a small loop of thread that is sewn behind the lapel hole of a coat. It allows the wearer to simply pop a flower through his button hole and neatly tuck the stem away under the loop, rather than fiddle around with pins and clips. Can you spot the "Made in England" label? Something of a rarity these days.

Like with the working cuffs, I've seen them on ready-to-wear garments but it does take time to make one, particularly when, like ours, it is done by hand and can be seen in the following video:

Final touches are the addition of a metallic copper lining and the Michelsberg badge of honour, that enriches the wardrobes of many and strikes fear into the hearts of lesser tailoring companies.

There's no escaping the fact that we've got some tough months ahead. It's going to get cold, damp, with less daylight hours than a Chilean miner, but we've got to stay positive. So here's to cosy nights in front of the box and perhaps something in cashmere to keep the winter chills at bay.

Wedding Bells & Summer Swells

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Tue, 21 Sep 2010 16:04:00 +0000

This month I thought we'd kick things off with the meaning of life.

Maslow would have us believe it is to reach 'self-actualisation.' Robin Williams, in the film Dead Poets Society, would probably just say 'Carpe Diem.' I like the phrase 'smile and the world smiles with you' and believe, although a bit schmaltzy, that it is up to us all to find and bring as much joy into this world as possible. Sick bags anyone?

This month the pressure has been on delivering a crazy amount of wedding suits and at times I've felt like I was running on empty. But in amongst the chasing of coat makers, cloth merchants and pressers, there have been some truly lovely moments.

As many of you know, I'm not shy about complimenting our own work but it is a real rush when a customer grins in the mirror at final fitting, we shake hands and they say thank you. I've had some really touching emails and notes, and one such ray of sunshine in my inbox went as follows:

"It has been an absolute joy to know and work with you and the whole experience has been fantastic from start to finish. The finished article is something I shall wear with pride and I couldn't have asked for a more amazing wedding suit.

You're a top bloke and Lisa and I wish you all the very best with the business and your growing family."

Just what you need on a Monday morning.

And last week I received this picture from the recently married Mr & Mrs Arkle.

James is a rugby player with the shoulders and legs of an ox and the waist of a beaver. He wanted something seriously fitted along the lines of Tom Ford but was struggling to find something that fit.

I think we did rather well. The cut is a classic one button, with a shawl lapel in the finest silk. The cloth, a wonderfully traditional black Barathea, is set off with a silver silk lining and a few Michelsberg touches to provide the proverbial cherry on top. In short, a veritable Bobby Dazzler. And don't they look happy! :-)

I am lucky in the fact that my working life does provide me with a great deal of satisfaction, but like all businesses there are still problems and hassles to be dealt with and at times you just need a break to re-charge.

So, last week, it was my turn to shut up shop and go away in search of some joyful moments of my own, and my god, I found them. The destination, Croyde Bay in North Devon and this was the view from my bedroom window.

If you don't know already, one of the biggest loves in my life is surfing and is one of the rare moments when I actually stop talking. That first wave at Saunton Sands washed off six months of hard graft and was food for the soul.

As I slid along a perfectly peeling right-hander on my ten foot noserider, time stood still. I felt weightless and totally connected to nature. After what felt like hours, I kicked out, dropped under the water, and returned to the surface, grinning like a madman. I screamed out in sheer bloody happiness, the hiss and smell of salt water all around me, the sun sparkling down on the crashing surf.

If the meaning of life is finding joy, then that moment was it and I'd trade in all the bespoke suits in the world to have it again.

Other highlights included early - and I do mean early - morning walks with my little girl Avy (pictured below), and dinner with my wife Nikki, whilst the baby-sitters did their duty. Thanks Rosemary & Colin!

Yes, I return to the wicked world of work with my batteries full, in search of future smiles and Maslow's finest.

Man versus Machine

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:07:00 +0000

"Once more unto the breach dear friends, once more."

I feel like everyone has been getting their rocks off in Ibizia, sailing in Greece, or, canoeing down the Dordogne, whilst I've been working my fingers to the bone, delivering suits for weddings, the races, and well dressed fun in the sun.

Saying that, I did recently spend a few days in Portugal visiting a garment maker I met at Pitti Uomo in Florence, who is a contender to manufacture my forthcoming ready-to-wear collection.

I can't tell you how good it was to briefly feel that wonderful embrace of 37 degrees heat as I stepped out of Lisbon airport. My eyes closed and shoulders dropped. Every bone, tendon, muscle and joint threw it's head back and sighed in unison, only to be jolted back into reality as I plopped into the back of an air-conditioned taxi and headed off to their factory inland.

As a business, they can manufacture over ten thousand jackets a month and with over four hundred employees it was going to be fascinating for me to see how such a production line is set-up and the level of quality that can be achieved using modern methods and machinery.

After a warm welcome and serious caffeine hit, the tour began and kicked off by meeting their tailors.

Here, designs are discussed and then broken down and transformed into patterns drafted onto card which are then scanned onto a computer loaded with complex CAD / CAM (Computer Aided Design / Manufacturing) software.

This then controls a rotating blade which shoots around on top of a table (with the cloth laid out underneath) and cuts out the various components which when sewn together, make-up a suit.

They are then checked for accuracy, placed into bundles with work-tickets attached and move down a line of machinists who each perform one of the two hundred operations required to build a coat, each often involving several sub-procedures.

The speed and accuracy with which they worked was jaw-dropping. I was equally impressed by Mario the Production Director, whose enthusiasm for quality control was matched only by his desire to produce garments that he and his team can genuinely be proud of.

Charming, honest and a straight talker, he was quick to point out areas where he believes technology has brought down costs and taken quality to new levels, whilst admitting there are things that a machine can never do as well as a skilled pair of hands.

For example, constructing the lapels. One of the charms of a bespoke garment is the gentle 'roll' of a lapel.

This is achieved by a tailor placing a layer of canvas behind the cloth that makes up the lapel, loosely basting (sewing) it together, and then gently folding it over his hand so it curves slightly. This shape is then held in place by making row upon row of hundreds of 'pad stitches,' as seen in the picture below, which permanently give the lapel a pleasing roll and also helps the lapel hug the chest.

As you can imagine, this takes tremendous skill and many hours of work.

That is unless, like Mario, you have sixty grand to play with, in which case you can buy a pair of machines (one for the left lapel, one for the right!) which completes the task as well, if not even better, in a matter of minutes. Incredible.

When it comes to sewing on the sleeves, he agrees that it is here that man can triumph over machine, as touch and feel can never really be hardwired into a micro-chip. The eyes and the fingers can see and feel when a stitch is too tight, whilst a machine will just carry on working to the settings it has been given.

Even the cutting machine has its downside. Whilst it will maximise every square inch of the cloth and cut with unbelievable accuracy, there is a real art in laying out the patterns so that the checks and stripes will match perfectly when put together. Obviously, this is done to a large degree by the machine, but it's just not the same.

As the tour continued, there were further oohs and ahhs, in particular watching the Eric Cantona of pressing lines, as garment after garment emerged crisp and clean as a whistle.

When it comes to tailoring, I have promised myself that whilst maintaining tradition is truly wonderful, I must always be open minded to modern methods.

There were days when truly beautiful cars were built by hand, indeed I believe the Morgan still is, but as technology has leaped forward, there are now gorgeous looking automobiles with breath-taking performance rolling off production lines.

Man versus machine will always lead to an interesting debate and perhaps I'll mull it over more next month when I finally take a few days off and head for some surf and sun.

Hasta la vista, baby.

Sins of Summer

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:42:00 +0000

When it comes to the most inhospitable place on Earth, El Azizia in Libya, or, Death Valley in California are up there. Yesterday, I found a serious contender. The Northern Line, London.

I was down South visiting the agent of an Italian manufacturing business. Riding the tube, or as I call it, 'the land of a thousand farts,' on a hot day in Summer is not for the faint hearted.

Wanting to create the right impression, I was kitted out in a three piece suit made-up in LBD's 'Havana' cloth. It's a very lightweight super 120's with cashmere (about 7 to 8oz in weight) and even though it's as light as a feather and cool to wear, was still no match for the humidity and general foistiness that enveloped our little carriage.

As my core body temperature reached dangerous levels, it got me thinking. What should a well-dressed man wear in the height of summer?

Perhaps I should begin with what not to wear. I've discussed short-sleeve shirts for work-wear in a previous blog and the bottom line is just don't, or you'll look like a school kid, or, worse, a traffic warden.

Then there are shorts. If you've got legs like Brad Pitt in 'Troy,' then maybe, just maybe you can get away with them, but for most of us, that isn't the case. Personally speaking, I have the legs of an anorexic ballerina and like to keep them under wraps. I can't tell you the number of pale, bruised, skinny, hairy, specimens that were poking out of voluminous cargo shorts. It's enough to put a fellow off his lunch.

And then there are those mid-calf ones - fine if you are a fisherman in Bali, but absolutely ridiculous in town.

Next, down to the feet and perhaps the uber-sin of footwear. Crocs. I salute the marketing genius that actually managed to convince people over the age of four that it is ok to wear fluorescent orange rubber clogs. Maybe it was just some guy having a crap footwear competition with the joker at Birkenstock who decided to produce a range for blokes.

Fact - most men's feet are the work of the devil. They spend fifty weeks of the year festering away in socks and shoes and then the first sniff of sunshine and bang. It's lights! camera! action! Out with the Prada flip flops and centre stage for all that pasty skin, yellow toe nails and cracked heels.

When it comes to dressing well for Summer, the Europeans are streets ahead of us Brits. Just look at one of the ray-ban wearing, Marlboro-smoking, sun-soaked signores, sipping his grappa in a square in Rome. You'll probably spot an open neck shirt with the sleeves rolled back, a pair of well cut lightweight trousers, a half-lined jacket slung over the back of the chair, and feet encased in a pair of Todd's loafers, sans socks.

Us Brits don't do Summer clothes well, but to be fair, we hardly have a Summer in which to do anything well. Just because it's hot, doesn't mean we can let our standards drop, get over-excited and dress like we are heading to the beach. It just means we have to find and wear the right fabrics, and that's where a good tailor comes into his own.

Personally, I don't like using pure linen as it takes ages for the whole garment to look equally dishevelled and much prefer using a light-weight wool, (around 9 oz'z in weight), perhaps blended with a little silk, linen, or, mohair.

I also like the yarn to be twisted, so it sheds creases more easily, which is better for travel suits. Useful, as we usually have to travel to find decent weather in the first place!

I mentioned earlier about a 'half-lined jacket, and an example of one is pictured below.

The beauty of a half-lined jacket is that they are cooler to wear. From a tailoring point of view, there is more work and cost involved because all the seams, and general gubbins inside, have to be meticulously finished, rather than 'hid' behind a lining.

The picture of the centre-back seam below clearly shows how it has been pressed flat and each edge of the seam stitched down quite beautifully.

A well dressed Englishman in sunnier climes is a bit of a rarity. As far as I'm concerned, a beautifully tailored half-lined jacket made up in a cool, lightweight fabric in cream, stone, pale grey, or Italian blue, worn over a crisp cotton shirt is a good start.

If you insist on getting your legs and feet out, then for heavens sake, hit the tanning booth and cut those toe-nails.

Finishing touches, a decent pair of sunnies and if you dare, a Panama Hat. David Niven and Jude Law, eat your sun-kissed hearts out.

Italian Stallions at Pitti Uomo

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 08:14:00 +0000

Last week I died and went to sartorial heaven. The angels spoke in Italian, sipped espressos and strutted around like peacocks, showcasing some of the finest tailoring on the planet.

I'd decided to make the pilgrimage to Florence to take part in the biggest menswear show in Europe - 'Pitti Uomo.'

For lovers of divine threads this truly is the land of milk and honey. It's here where the big boys like Kiton, Brioni, Belvest, and D'Avenza come to oil up and flex their garment making muscles in front of an international audience of buyers, agents and the media.

When it comes to looking good, the Italians rule the roost. It's in their blood. I remember watching two guys in front of a shop in Rome talking about a pair of shoes as if they were discussing a beautiful woman.

That passion, that confidence to go forth and show the world whose your daddy is the engine behind a tailoring and textile industry that few other countries can match.

So, not wanting to let the side down, I popped on my three piece and panama bowler hat and threw myself into the baying throng of air kissing Giuseppes in search of new contacts.

Also along for the ride was a young lady who is now working with me to design our first ready-to-wear collection. Introducing Miss Louise Winestone.

One of the key differences between Italian and English tailoring is the construction and silhouette. Italian tailors tends to use much lighter canvases, with garments having a much softer, more natural shoulder line, with more drape, using very little wadding in the shoulders and the chest. An example is shown below.

Whereas, English tailors tend to prefer a more 'constructed garment', with heavier canvas, a more imposing shoulder line and clearly defined chest, nipped into the waist such as this little number below.

As far as I'm concerned, they both have their merits.

Personally, when I wear a suit, I like to feel it on me and so like the heavier construction.

Put on an English jacket and it says, "Right fella. We're ready to rock. Let the games begin." With an Italian suit, it's like you are having a massage. It puts it's arm round you and says, "Buona sera. Let's sit down in the sun, drink limoncello and watch the pretty girls go by."

Different schools of thought. Both worth attending.

I tried suits on by Kiton which can retail at well over five grand and met with the most highly regarded names in Italian Menswear. Most are still run as family businesses and nearly all of them have ladies who are charming and rather attractive, such as Barbara from Ravazzolo in Vicenza.

I met with guys from Savile Row such as Richard Anderson and his partner Brian Lishak, ate the best veal I've ever tasted, and ogled at some of the most beautiful garments I've ever seen. Inspiring, exhilarating and utterly knackering.

As I left the exhibition for the last time, I stumbled across Mr. Yukio Akamini outside the main hall. He's a legend in Japan and known throughout the world for his knowledge of textiles, tailoring and ability to open doors.

As I collapsed into my seat on Ryan Airs finest, the land of 'sogni d'oro' fell upon me. Graze Firenze. I'll be back.

Michelsberg Accessories and Shoes with Soul

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Fri, 28 May 2010 15:47:00 +0000

If dressing well is an art form, then a bespoke suit is your canvas. If you want to create a masterpiece, then you've got to get down and dirty with the details and by that I'm talking about accessories.

Women understand this more so than men - many a cunning cougar, or flighty fox knows how a simple frock from Top Shop can be elevated to dizzy heights when teamed with a strappy pair of Louboutins and a Hermes Birkin.

It's the same for men. A simple black Mohair suit will own that cocktail party when worn with a summer weight cashmere scarf, tied nonchalantly underneath it, a crisp white shirt and a hanky stuffed rakishly into the top pocket.

Yes, it is the little things that count and will become your trade-mark, and so this month has seen the official launch of the Michelsberg Accessories website for men who laugh loud, live fast and dress proud.

It's an outrageously indulgent collection of silky loveliness, with some "Casino" style socks and "Steed" umbrellas thrown in for good measure. There is however one thing that is missing and that is shoes.

Without doubt, they are the singularly, sexiest, most important item in a gentleman's wardrobe and is where mere mortals are transformed into sartorial giants.

I am a huge fan of Jeffery West, although I'll occasionally flirt with Oliver Sweeney, and have made it my mission to seek out the finest foot candy available to humanity. I've already commented on the likes of John Lobb and Berluti but have recently heard incredible things about one of the four remaining shoe manufactures that remain in the UK.

So, I jumped in my car and headed to their factory in Northampton to find out more about the wonderful world of Edward Green.

Established in 1890 the business has been run for the last ten years by Hilary Freeman, who took over, when her partner, the legendary shoe designer John Hlustik sadly died.

Employing 55 craftsmen and ladies, they make 55 pairs a day, of which 80% are exported, and prices start at £585 with their 'Top Drawer' range starting at £995.

But before I get into the detail, let's look at some wonderful, unadulterated shoe-porn:

I love manufacturing businesses and the thing that really hit me when walking round the factory was just how much a truly artisan business this is. Much of the work is done by hand, using the simplest of tools, and what impressed me most was the genuine passion, pride and love for their craft that was apparent in everyone I met.

The shoe-making process begins with cutting out the leather pattern with a 'clicking knife', pictured below, named such because of the noise it makes when slicing through the leather.

Then these pieces are passed on to Jill for 'Skiving' (pictured below) whose job it is to grind down the edges of the various leather components so that when they are assembled and sewn together, no lumps are visible.

The process is so traditional that they actually make their own needles, using pig's bristles, to then sew the shoes upper together with waxed thread.

Next step is the 'lasting' process where the leather upper is stretched over the wooden last (which gives the shoe it's shape) by Eddie, both pictured below.

I particularly enjoyed watching the Goodyear Welt being stitched to the upper and insole of the shoe, which is used as an attach-point for the sole. The space is then enclosed and filled with cork under which the wearers feet 'bed down' and make their own unique incredibly comfortable fingerprint. How cool is that.

Heels are hand pinned and then it's off to the polishing room to Tim who applies the hand worked patina, applied in several stages. This 'antiquing' process was developed by John Hlustik and is a closely guarded secret.

And a visit to Edward Green would not have been complete without meeting Gary "The Slipper King" who makes these beauties featured below using a 'cemented' construction.

On the way back to the office we passed the 'sale rail' and bugger, I did it again and added another pair of lovelies to my collection.

My time with Hilary and the good folk of Edward Green was utterly memorable and I look forward to meeting with them again next month at the big Italian Menswear show in Florence, Pitti Uomo.

I must say, at times I do love my life :-)

Saxon sheep and ladys of the loom

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:35:00 +0000

What a month. I've been out and about more than Paris Hilton or a Tory politician.

It kicked off with an evening at the Bradford Club, watering hole to Yorkshire's textile community since 1857.

Gone are the days when the Rollers would line up outside waiting for the mill owners to finish their port and brandys, but it still regularly plays host to the great and the good of Huddersfield's finest.

Tonight was drinks and a presentation by Peter Ackroyd, head of the British Escorial Guild.

'Escorial' fibre is to cloth what Petrus grapes is to wine. It's very rare, and rather expensive. It started off when a sheep loving member of Spanish royalty nicked a flock of beauties from North Africa in 1340 and brought them back to the El Escorial palace in Madrid.

Then, in 1765, the Spanish King gave some to his sheep loving cousin, the Elector of Saxony, who in turn agreed to sell some to a cunning Scottish lady in 1830. She then shipped them off to the sunshine of Australia and the rest, as they say, is history. Today there are only three remaining flocks in the world - two in Oz (Tasmania and Victoria), and one in Mount Arden, New Zealand.

Pundits talk about it's 'three dimensional helical crimp' which acts like a natural spring, creating light, crease resistant garments.

Whatever, the rules dictate that the fibres must be less than 16 microns in width (about a Super 150's quality) which means it feels seriously luxurious and does have a magnificent handle.

It was a great presentation by Peter and lovely to chat with people from the trade. Not a bad pint of Boddingtons either.

Then we said our goodbyes and met up the following evening at a celebration of Yorkshire Textiles hosted by Harvey Nichols!

Here, beer was substituted for elegant flutes of champagne, and as I swanned around the bustling bar in my new suit, talking shop and meeting a wealth of new contacts, the world seemed a better place.

Yorkshire textile folk are notoriously reserved. In my opinion, they don't shout out enough about the fact that they supply the biggest brands in the world with truly incredible cloth. The demise of many UK textile companies has been well documented by the press over recent years, and now the strong remain. A 'lean and mean,' passionate group of niche producers targeting the uber-luxury end of the market.

I was the proverbial pig in shit, whose sty only got deeper and smellier when I was invited to visit one of the finest mills in England 'Taylor & Lodge' by Ed Waterhouse, whose family own the business, and their Sales Director, Robert McQuillan, pictured below.

And that's were I've been today. Now, part of the Bulmer & Lumb Group, they've been based here for 125 years and are arguably weaving some of the most divine shmatter money can buy. For example, their pure Vicuna collection costs well over a grand a metre and they made the Summer Kid Mohair & Cashmere blend for Daniel Craig's 'Bond tux' in Quantum of Solace.

I've warbled on about the weaving process in previous blogs so rather than bore you with the pros of their Karl Mayer Warping machine and Dornier rapier looms here's some of the people behind the brand:

There's Andrea Bellwood in the patten room who sends out samples to the likes of likes of Brioni, Burberry, Dunhill, Lanvin, Richard James and James Michelsberg :-)

Here is Carol and Trish having a tea-break, who inspect the cloth after it's been woven for faults.

And my last lady of the looms, Margaret King, Queen of the inspectors, who gave a good bollocking to Robert for selling too much white cashmere which is a nightmare to keep clean.

What a warm, cheery bunch of people who will no doubt continue to take the company forward for another 125 years of weaving wonderment.

Yes, it's been a hectic month but I've enjoyed every minute. Business has been brisk, the sun's shining, and I'm off to Spain in two weeks, providing good volcanic behaviour.

Legal Eagles

noreply@blogger.com (James) — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 16:23:00 +0000

I'm buzzing. Last night was the the inaugural "Michelsberg Debating Competition" and if I say so myself, it rocked.

All the biggest law schools in Yorkshire took part including BPP Law, College of Law York, Leeds Metropolitan University and Leeds University.

After running internal competitions to select their best debaters, the finalists congregated at the Malmaison Hotel in Leeds to do battle before an audience and an esteemed panel of judges.

These included David Knaggs, Managing Partner of Irwin Mitchell Solicitors, Andrew Stubbs QC of St Pauls Chambers, and David Parkin, Editor of TheBusinessDesk.com

The motion was simple - "This House Believes in Style over Substance."

Whilst the contestants had fifteen minutes to prepare, the rest of us munched canapes and tucked into the booze before settling down to let the games begin.

What followed was everything I'd hoped for and I have nothing but admiration for all the participants. To stand up on your back legs, with minimal preparation, under the glare of a TV camera's lights, whilst your opposition is doing everything it can to make you stumble and look like an idiot, takes confidence, a cool head, quick thinking and an impressive pair of cojones.

The debate was recorded and can be viewed if you click here.

The best speaker was Edward Duncan-Smith (pictured below) from College of Law York who received the prize of a three piece bespoke suit. Not bad for a nights work.

Best team was College of Law York, which also fielded Rupert Oldham-Reid. They were in support of the motion and as I might have guessed, style won the day! Runners up were Leeds Metropolitan represented by Tom Royston and Stephen Dudley.

So what did I get out of it? Well PR aside, it was great fun and an incredible rush to make something happen and see people enjoying themselves. The plan is to run a regional heat in the South and then host the Grand Final. North versus South. Bring it on!