Hattons Model Railways, located in Liverpool UK, has all of your railway hobby needs. Hattons has products by the scale, the country, the manufacturer, and by era in which you are looking model. However, before I go on it is important to make one thing clear; I don’t have any financial involvement, and I don’t get any commissions from Hattons Model Railways. I just think it is important from time to time to give credit where credit is due.

Now, I’ll explain a little bit more on how they operate and why I personally like their service.

Hattons keeps a running list of bargains on their website, offering some of the best model railway units and accessories. They have a large quantity of Bachmann products on their bargains page all the time, so if you are looking specifically for the Bachmann brand, whether it is for the US or the UK, they have it.

Diesel locomotives are listed on the bargains page from time to time, so if you are interested in a models like the Bachmann (USA) 82754 American SD45 diesel loco in Pennsylvania RR livery, they might just have what you are searching for.

Also listed on the bargains page are scenic items used to decorate around your model railway along with complete train sets. There is no shortage of bargains at Hattons, you just have to stay on top of your search to get the best price. However, that’s not to say you won’t sometimes get a better deal, or find something different somewhere else. You will, because that’s how model train stores operate. Just like any business, they need to stay competitive, but they can never completely satisfy the needs of every shopper.

Get it now, it’s limited:

Hatton’s has a wide selection of limited edition model trains. If you are looking to complete your model train set with a limited edition train, then have a look at the Hattons range. Models like the Graham Farish 377-225Z 6 X BR grey 16 Ton weathered steel mineral wagons with end door and different run no. Ltd ed of 500 are offered a decent prices.

What others are getting:

If you don’t quite know where you want to begin with your model train, just take a look at the best sellers. Instantly you can get a feel for what is popular on the market and what most people are buying. This is the best possible way to get a good product, one that you will be satisfied with for a long time.

Hornby and Bachmann models are among some of the best sellers, so you may want to begin with one of these manufacturers in your collection.

You’re waiting for it to come:

Hatton’s knows that some of you train hobbyists are waiting for a manufacturer to release a certain model of a train, or certain accessories to accompany you collection. Through their forthcoming releases section you can provide your contact information to get the latest updates on when products are going to released. Now you do not have to be in dark on release dates and availability, you simply wait for an email to tell you that your product is in the store or on its way.

It’s all about the era:

It is important to have a train set that matches the specific era you are modeling, if that’s what you are doing. Hattons provides multiple sections of trains and accessories from different countries that are then divided into smaller groups depending on the era in which they are from. This is a neat organization style because it saves you the time of sifting through multiple websites to find a certain train or accessory from the era that you need. Hattons makes it quick and simple.

Hattons makes model train collecting and building a simple task, and one that is more enjoyable. It is perfect that one store has all of the products that you need for your model train. Between all of the bargains that they offer, the limited edition models, and updates on what is to come, you know that you have a reliable model train supplier. Hattons Models Railway is the place to be if you are just beginning your hobby or you have been a hobbyist for years.

Hornby model trains are created by Hornby Railways, manufacturers of the 00 gauge Hornby model trains. Hornby Railways has been making stream train railway models since the 1900’s and is now the leading brand of model trains in the United Kingdom. Hornby also manufactures the Meccano clockwork 0 gauge models as well. Following World War II, Hornby began making their clockwork Hornby model train but stopped production in 1950. Another Hornby model train entered the market in the 1970’s, a steam-powered model of George Stephenson’s Rocket. In addition, a multiple locomotive controller program called Zero 1 was created during the 1970’s and was an early version for the DCC systems. The Zero 1 failed to work well, however, due to decoder modules and controller units being expensive, along with the fact the trains did not operate on other systems.

In the past twenty years, Hornby Railways has begun investing in creating train sets based on films like Harry Potter and the trains seen in it. In addition, Hornby has recently released the Mallard, which is its first steam-driven 00-gauge model locomotive.

Hornby model trains also market a TrakMat which is a scenic sheet you place under your trains as a base for the layout you select during the development of your train. TrakMats are useful in that they indicate where you should place the buildings, tracks and any other accessories you are using.  Before placing your TrakMat, however, make sure you have a sturdy, stable base on which to lay it. Most collectors make a baseboard out of insulation board for this purpose by additionally creating a supporting foundation of softwood battens.

The Skaledale and the Lyddle End are the two principle systems supporting Hornby model trains. The Skaledale provides track and street accessories and buildings resembling those offered by the Lyddle End but are built on a larger scale of approximately 1:76. Both the Skaledale and Lyddle End work with 00 gauge model trains, but the Lyddle End seems to be the more popular of the two among collectors.

Examples of scenic materials available for the Hornby train enthusiast are hedges, vegetation, grasses and gravel. Trees created with a great attention to details can also be purchased in a variety of sizes and design. For those collectors who need a large area filled with trees, Hornby also has trees which are more affordable than other trees.

Illuminating Hornby model trains and the scenes in which a collector is creating can be accomplished with assorted lighting products. With wires, bulbs and small extension blocks, the train enthusiast can light up any accessories used on a TrakMat. This is facilitated by each train set coming with a standard Hornby’s power system of transformer plugs which are put into a controller, then plugging the controller into the power clip and finally plugging the power clip into the track itself.

Hornby model train collectors frequently purchase another controller so they can maneuver two trains simultaneously on a different circuit. Hornby has created the Hornby HM2000 controller which is a transformer/speed control unit equipped with a control for two different trains in addition to being able to move trains in different directions. If you are interested in model trains, starting out with Hornby model trains is a delightful entrance into the world of model train collecting.

Operating model trains has been an excellent pastime for generations and continues to grow in popularity. This is despite of the popularity of internet games. Model railroad magazines have always been a fabulous way for train fanatics to learn about forthcoming events and news from from various clubs. The publications normally include articles, related advertising and information on model train sets and accessories. Popular model railroad magazines include: Model Railroader Magazine, Railway Modeller Magazine, Continental Modeller, ZTrack, Railroad Model Craftsman Magazine, Model Rail Magazine, Hornby Magazine. There are all very good.

Getting reacquainted with the pastime by reading a model railroad magazine is a sensible idea. After all, for countless parents and grandparents, it will have been many years since they were involved with with a model train set. And, now they are teaching their own grandchildren or children all about the hobby and the joyfulness it can bring about.

The good thing for many folk (and the disadvantage for others), is that railway modeling has so many varied aspects to it. Getting to grips it all can look like a daunting assignment, or a wonderful challenge, depending on a person’s viewpoint. To productively pass on the tradition to the next age group requires a clear appreciation of the techniques.

Having an understanding of the past is an advantage if the railway layout is to replicate an historical background or event. Generally railroaders will want to incorporate at least one steam locomotive on their model railroad, so it is best to recognize the role they played in times gone by. Having a steam locomotive pulling modern trains/cars would be out of place, so an assessment needs to be made on what gets incorporated into the layout. Deciding on wiring, DC or DCC, and additional technological train stuff ought to be considered too. There is also the wiring and technical aspects to contemplate and how they will impact decisions. Planning needs to commence from the first day to keep away from making expensive mistakes.

That’s why studying a model railroad magazine or joining up with a railroading club can be a shrewd move prior to purchasing train stuff or starting off constructing a model railroad. The trick is to appreciate what needs to be done ahead of getting started. So, it is worthwhile to formulate the best decisions ahead of getting too far down the track (to coin a phrase!).

Model railroad plans and lessons are accessible from Online Model Train Clubs as well as in model railroad magazines. The internet based train clubs have numerous added advantages with step by step video tutorials and instant 24/7 access to answers. The way model railroaders gather resources and ideas has advanced as the net has made access faster and simpler than in earlier times. That is not to argue magazines no longer play an important role, they do.

One of the longest established mags is Model Railroader Magazine which began publication way back in 1910. Trying to do everything alone is a daunting chore, so utilizing these resources can be a massive help to plan, build and run a railway layout devoid of running into problems.

Following are some helpful tips:

1) Make your mind up exactly what you want to learn from purchasing a model railroad magazine.

This is critical because they commonly address specific aspects of the hobby. For example; the magazine might focus principally on the chronological detail of the hobby, or it could be exclusively for HO scale railway modelers. The key thing is to probe the net for model railroad magazines and internet based model train clubs to establish what suits your requirements the best.

2) Any hobby shop that has a range of model trains and accessories will have experienced personnel who can impart some ideas.

The hobby store personnel might have some thoughts on selecting the right model railroad magazine based on your individual needs and funds. At all times be aware of the projected target readership for the magazine and work out if you fit into that bracket.

3) With the growing popularity of the internet there are also internet model train magazines and internet model train clubs to join. In my opinion I fancy the latter, but you need to do what is best for you.

In summary; the most important thing is to remain ably informed and get pleasure from the hobby.

After more than a year of planning Robert Anderson’s brand new online Model Train Club is now LIVE.

You can have a sneak peek at http://www.modeltrainclub.org

The Club includes sections on scenery & layout construction ideas, benchwork, detailing and weathering, locomotives, maintenance and repairs, train operation, overcoming problems, planning and design, rolling stock, scenery construction, scratchbuilding and structures, trackwork, wiring and control, DCC and ...

After you join you will be able to access step-by-step tutorials, articles, photo galleries, lots of videos with ideas and…

There’s even a member forum where you can share ideas and ask questions and ...

Club members can access a f.ree collection of historical railroad books, product reviews, expert interviews, handy tips and answers to your model railroading questions and… much, much more!

It’s all in the “Members Only” Model Train Club

You can see a sample at http://www.modeltrainclub.org/club.html

When you join, the club will keep you up to date with every aspect of this fascinating hobby… and it’s ALL IN ONE PLACE!

And, even better, new content will be added each month.

The Club will save you time and money in creating a model train layout you’ll be supremely proud of… with all the help you’ll need at your fingertips!

I know you are going to like this… so have a look now at

http://www.modeltrainclub.org

If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab free sample pages of Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook.

When searching for the right locomotive to buy, look for a model train locomotive that features a lot of good quality metal wheels. Buy an engine with plenty of gears connected to the wheels. Ensure the locomotive you order has a strong metal frame and comes with a flywheel. You’ll want to order one that will outlast you. It’ll need to answer your needs now and in the coming years. As I mentioned, a low-cost locomotive can bring poor performance. A substandard model train locomotive will yield you no end of problems.

From experience I would advise against skimping on buying a good locomotive. A low retail price will probably result in poor performance and quality. The locos that come in toy train sets are usually very basic and I would personally avoid them.

You are better to have one good locomotive (either diesel or steam) rather than spread your money to buy two poor quality locos. They will one give you trouble and cause you endless frustration. With a cheap locomotive you may end up pushing it to get it started (just like they pushed cars in the old days). Problem is; a cheap locomotive with probably then take off at high speed (when you least expect it), and go flying off the track onto the floor. CRASH!!! 

If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab free sample pages of Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook.

When buying a locomotive select either a diesel or steam locomotive with a good quality motor. Make sure it has lots of metal wheels (not plastic). Check that your steam or diesel locomotive has lots of gears connected to the wheels. Choose a loco with flywheels and a heavy metal frame.

Also, when buying a locomotive, choose one that will last. You are best to spend a bit extra and get one that will meet your future needs. Cheap locomotives are nothing but trouble. Buy the best quality locomotive within your budget.

Track maintenance is one of the most important tasks as dirt or ‘dead spots’ on the track can cause a locomotive to splutter, slow down, or even stop. Sometimes the problem is caused by a small blob of scenery glue, or a bad track connector disrupting the flow of power.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

Regular loco maintenance is another way to avoid problems. If your loco hasn’t been used for some years, or is running erratically, or is making a lot of noise, or has been dropped - it may need repairs or maintenance. The printed instructions that came in the box with your loco may include maintenance tips.

However, it is important to know what you are doing so as to avoid any damage to your locomotive. If you are at all uncertain, it would be sensible to have your loco serviced by a professional who will be able to diagnose the problem. For example, carbon brushes do wear out and will need replacing at some stage, and the commutator may accummulate black deposits over time. A loco problem could be something as simple as that.

So, in summary, to avoid layout problems do regular maintenance work including: track cleaning, lubrication, and fix mechanical and electrical wiring problems before they cause any damage.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

Let’s not be too pedantic about it. As long as you understand what people mean, it probably doesn’t really matter which definition is technically correct. It is only since the invention of the deisel locomotive that some have started to question the term ‘engines’, because prior to that, most people just talked about steam engines (referring to the locomotive or even the entire train). The main thing is to enjoy your involvement in the hobby and not get too worried about the ‘rights or wrongs’ of what people say.

7 Points To Consider When Buying A Locomotive:

1. Choose a locomotive model that has a good quality motor

2. Buy a locomotive model with plenty of metal wheels

3. Select one with plenty of gears connected to the wheels

4. Choose a locomotive model with a heavy metal frame

5. Choose one with flywheels

6. The important thing, is to buy a diesel locomotive (or steam locomotive) that will meet your requirements now and in the future. A low price may result in poor performance and quality.

7. If the price is cheap, find out why. Is the locomotive a genuine end-of-line price reduction, or is cheap because of poorer quality specifications?

Although it is easy to say, “I’ll buy cheap and upgrade later”, this is often a mistake (especially when buying locomotives). A poor performing engine can prove to be extremely frustrating - believe me, I’ve been down that path!

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

A quick search of auction sites like eBay and you’ll see a range of model train hobby supplies and model trains for sale second hand. The big question is; are they worth buying?

Recommendation: There is an excellent section about buying and selling secondhand trains in Robert Anderson’s ebook. If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

Unfortunately, there is no clear answer and the ‘buyer beware’ rule applies. However, in saying that, I recently bought a second hand loco off eBay for a tenth of the price of a new one (it was in “as new” condition).

Model Trains For Sale Second Hand Worth Careful Consideration

A lot model railroading enthusiasts have stuff sitting around in boxes for years until they eventually decide to sell it off. The good thing is that most of us in the hobby are very careful with our model trains, so the model trains for sale second hand are often in very good condition. That’s not to say you won’t ever buy a dud!

Also, be aware that many of the model train hobby supplies for sale on sites like eBay are brand new (not second hand). So, you can sometimes buy train supplies cheaper online than from a model train hobby supply store (although you may not get the expert knowledge and back up service).

If you are going to buy second hand train supplies, ask the seller a lot of probing questions and thoroughly do your homework to avoid buying something that doesn’t work properly.

Tips For Advertising Your Model Trains For Sale Second Hand

If you want to sell some model trains (or model train supplies), start by asking the members of your local model railroad club, BEFORE you spend any money on advertising. Some hobby shops even trade in second hand trains. You could even research recent sales on eBay to get a guide to pricing.

Swap Or Trade Model Trains

Another idea is to swap, or trade, model trains and supplies with others in the hobby. You might not want to give them your best locomotive, but you could trade your skills and experience.

Why not help out constructing a bridge in return for something someone else has, or something they can do for you?

I guess what I am really saying is; you don’t need to pay retail for every train or train accessory you want. Get to know others in the hobby, do some trading, share ideas and help each other out.

Model railroading is a wonderful hobby… and we are all in this together.

If you are talking with someone who is not involved with model railroading you can best descibe ‘weathering’ as the art of taking something new and making it look like something old. When you think about it - almost anything ages and changes over time (I’ve got wrinkles in places I never had!).

The process could involve weathering a locomotive, weathering a building, a bridge, a tunnel, a road, a fence, or any element of scenery could be weathered to add character and age.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

Weathering is important because model trains come packaged all shiny, plastic and new. They look too perfect, unreal and out of place alongside the other cars on the track. New trains need ‘roughing up’ to make then look used, or at least show some signs of wear and tear. That’s what weathering is all about. Weathering trains is fun and can be very effective when done properly.

Decide if want to “rough-up” the factory paint job on the very expensive locomotive or cars you’ve just purchased. But, like it or not, shiny new locomotives and cars usually look out of place on an otherwise ‘used looking’ layout.

In reality; most cars on a railroad show varying degrees of rust, grime (lube and oil), mud, soot, denting, scratches and some are even covered in graffiti. However, cars do vary in age and usage, so they shouldn’t necessarily be weathered to all look the same. And, not everything is dirty, because the contact on bare metal can keep some areas clean.

The region, or era, you are recreating can affect the weathering techniques required. Is the scene likely to be muddy at times, or would it be more dusty and arid like in a desert? because you may not like the effect.

Above all; always test your weathering techniques on a similar material before experimenting on the brand new locomotive you just purchased.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

The state hosts the transcontinental lines of both the major western railroads: The Union Pacific and the Burlington Northern Santa Fe. And both of those lines are steeped in historical predecessors, the Atlantic & Pacific, the Santa Fe, the Southern Pacific, and even the Texas and Pacific.

And the state is filled with optimistic short lines to serve the lumbering and mining interests of the earliest pioneers. Lines like the United Verde & Pacific, Verde Tunnel and Smelter, Arizona Mineral Belt, El Paso & Southwestern, Arizona Eastern, Maricopa & Phoenix, Bradshaw Mountain, etc. Many are fallen flags, but some are new like the Black Mesa & Lake Powell and the many incarnations of the Apache Railway.

Arizona is also home to the Ponderosa North Model Railroad Club. The club has a modular layout that is housed at club members homes. This layout is a working layout that is run at model railroading events like Railfair & the Great American Train Show. Work is normally done at these events to show both a running of trains and a demonstration of how to work on a layout providing visitors with help building their own layout.

The Ponderosa North Model Railroad Club also has one of the most informative model railroad club websites on the net. Do have a look because it is well laid out and has some excellent model railroading information and tips.

To give you an idea here is a snippet from a page on building a case for carrying rolling stock to swap meets and model train shows.

Here is an extract from the page courtesy of the Ponderosa North Model Railroad Club.

At a swap meet Matt & I were at recently, Matt took a final look around to see if there was anything he could not live without. He ran across someone selling a tool box that had been converted into a carrying case for rolling stock, complete with 4 trays. I thought it interesting too. What a great way to transport rolling stock while minimizing the chance of damage! However, we both thought the $65 price was a bit much, so we decided to have a go at it ourselves. Here are the results.

Now as we looked at tool boxes we got the notion that a 19” long tool box might not hold enough rolling stock for our needs. So after some brain storming and thought, Matt came up with a better idea. We would use a tub, the 58 qt. size you can get at Walmart. Not only did we get 3 larger trays but we also got extra space to either add 2 more trays or what we did, use the space to transport buildings, tools, etc. Note you can make 1 or up to 5 depending on your needs. If you make more, you can always leave trays home if not needed and gain more building space.
While the basic tub construction was the same, Matt opted to use 1/4” plywood for his tray base & I used 1/4” Masonite. Both cost about the same, the Masonite a bit cheaper. I thought the Masonite would keep sanding down and less chance of splinters as the trays got old. But you have to drill some pilot holes to make it easier to nail the frame to the tray base.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

If your train won’t run, there is likely a mechanical or electrical problem in the motor that can be fixed. Whether your train has been dropped or has simply gone unused for many years, it is important to diagnose problems and to make the necessary repairs before any permanent damage is done.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

First you need to consider the factors that determine the length of the train you can run on your model train layout:

The drawbar pull, or traction, of your locomotive is affected by its weight, contact with the rail, traction tires, motor and the power available. This pulling power is measured in pounds and ounces at the rear coupler or drawbar of your locomotive.

Drag of your cars depends on the number of axles, lubrication of the bearings and if there are track pickups on any of the wheels. The weight of each car is also a factor.

Radius of the track curves is another factor to consider. The smaller the radius the more the drag. A reverse curve, without a straight line between, causes even more drag. Also remember that a clean track will reduce the drag on curves.

Grade of the track can be a major factor affecting the pulling power of a locomotive. Grade is the ratio of distance forward compared to the change in height. A forward travel of 100 inches with a rise of one inch is a 1% grade. A rise of two inches is 2%, three inches is 3% and four inches is 4%. You wouldn’t want anything steeper than a 4% otherwise you could experience all kinds of problems. (no more than a 2% grade for garden railroads).

So, the number of cars a locomotive can pull will depend on a number of factors.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

As a summary here is are some important guidelines to get the best from your train set: Aim to have a heavy locomotive with adequate power available.If you want to run really long trains then it’s best to have clean track that is level or with only gentle curves. Keep your trains well maintained. The wheels on the locomotive should be keep clean, traction tires clean, bearings lubricated (including side rod linkage on steam). Have the locomotive motor checked regularly. Rolling stock should have clean wheels and lubricated bearings. Couplers should move freely to maintain alignment.

The locomotive motor is also important and needs to be of good quality, to turn smoothly, using the least amount of electricity.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

The contact point where your model train locomotive wheel meets the rail is extremely small. That’s why; it doesn’t take much in the way of dirt, dust, or debris to obstruct the wheel-to-rail contact. Dirt can build up, so it is important that you keep the wheels clean and free of accumulated dirt. If the wheels of your locomotive become dirty, they may not make good contact with the metal rails, and your train will stall.
Remember, plastic wheels don’t conduct electricity.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

If a “T” follows the numbers, then it is a “tank” engine, which has no tender.This is the “Whyte” system of classification. (In Europe, particularly France, axles are counted instead of wheels, but European models intended for sale in the U.S. will use the Whyte system.) A “2-8-0”, then, has a pilot truck with two wheels, eight driving wheels and no trailing truck. This type is called a “Consolidation” or occasionally a “Pershing” (this refers to certain groups of Consolidations that were shipped to France during World War I and later given to the French).

A 2-8-8-4 has a pilot truck of two wheels, two sets of eight driving wheels each, and a four-wheel trailig truck. This is a “Yellowstone,” an articulated engine.There are a few exceptions, notably geared locomotives and Beyer-Garratts, but I won’t get into that.

If instead of numbers there are letters, or both letters and numbers, the engine is either a diesel or an electric. The letters designate powered axles, so a typical EMD diesel with four powered axles in two trucks would be a B-B. Unpowered axles receive numbers, so an A1A truck means there are two powered axles separated by an unpowered axle.

The Fairbanks Morse passenger C-liner, for instance, had a B-A1A arrangement. (Don’t confuse this with sets of diesel cab units, which usually do not use hyphens between the letters). Designations like Bo-Bo or Co-Co are European, and are the same as B-B and C-C. Unpowered leading and trailing trucks are handled the same way, with the number of axles counted, as for instance 2-C+C-2.

Generally, the more driving wheels an engine has the more powerful it is, and for steam locomotives, the more wheels in the trailing truck, the larger the firebox.

There is no “best” wheel arrangement; the railroad’s own operating requirements determined that, and also wheel arrangements evolved over time. For much of the 19th century the 4-4-0 was so common that it was known variously as the “American” or “American Standard”, sometimes just “Standard” (also “Eight Wheeler”). It was a dual-service engine, hauling both passendgers and freight. Later the 4-6-0 (Ten Wheeler), 2-6-0 (Mogul) and 2-8-0 also saw much dual service. As fireboxes grew larger, the 2-8-2 (Mikado) was introduced: it became a standard freight engine all over the country. The 4-4-2 (Atlantic) and 4-6-2 (Pacific), usually equipped with large driving wheels, were common passenger engines, especially the latter. Engines with four-wheel trailing trucks, to support still larger fireboxes, the 2-8-4 (Berkshire), 4-6-4 (Hudson) and 4-8-4 (Northern and other names) were introduced shortly before diesels and were again fast, dual-purpose engines.

The articulated types (2-6-6-2, 2-8-8-2, etc.) hauled long, heavy freight trains for the most part, though some also were used in passenger service: Southern Pacific 4-8-8-2 cab-forwards, for instance, were dual-service.

Engines with ten or twelve driving wheels were generally used for freight. Except in the earliest years (before the Civil War), engines without either pilot or trailing trucks were switchers.

There are numerous introductory books on railroads and model railroading that go into more detail on these matters.

If you are modeling a particular railroad, be aware that not every type was used by a railroad. The Kansas City Southern, for instance, had many Consolidations but no Mikados.For your own modeling, if your layout is small, with tighter curves, pick smaller engines with fewer driving wheels (shorter wheelbases, you see) to avoid excessive overhang and even derailments.I hope this has been of some help.
A model train locomotive runs by picking up an electrical current from the metal rails through metal wheels that ride on the rails. The electricity is transferred from the wheels to the motor, which causes the motor to run. The motor connects to the wheels through a mechanical drive system. When the electricity turns the motor, the motor turns the gears that turn the wheels and push the locomotive along the train tracks. Simple!

The contact point where your model train locomotive wheel meets the rail is extremely small. That’s why; it doesn’t take much in the way of dirt, dust, or debris to obstruct the wheel-to-rail contact. Dirt can build up, so it is important that you keep the wheels clean and free of accumulated dirt. If the wheels of your locomotive become dirty, they may not make good contact with the metal rails, and your train will stall.
Remember, plastic wheels don’t conduct electricity.

The flywheels on the locomotive are another important feature. Flywheels are solid-metal cylinders mounted in line with the motor. Flywheels at one or both ends of the locomotive motor ensure a smooth take-off by slowing down the initial rotation of the motor. Flywheels help achieve a smoother stop when the electricity is turned off. They also help the locomotive operate more smoothly and negotiate dirty track better.

When buying a new or used locomotive always feel its weight. Locomotive weight is important to ensure that the wheels connect and stay firmly on the track. This is achieved through solid metal frames.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!

Model train wheels can be made of either plastic or metal; the important thing is that they have a metal axle. For the wheels to sit on the rails correctly they must be the same distance apart on the axle. Plastic wheels can sometimes be adjusted to the correct distance apart on the axle.

Recommendation: If you haven’t yet done so, make sure you grab Robert Anderson’s excellent Model Train Help ebook. You’ll find it extremely useful!