With a bit more than a week to go before Baselworld 2010 starts, the number of new watches is overwhelming. Something of a complete different order is a new in-house caliber, especially if it comes from two very talented independent watchmakers!

John McGonigle says the goal was to create a time-only watch with a high focus on excellent timekeeping, a substantial power reserve, reliability and with superb finishing and decoration. The design had to have a clean coherent style and the principle mechanical elements had to be visible on the dial side. This was only possible if they developed their own movement from the ground up. And that’s what they did…

Caliber McG01 is a hand-wound movement with two mainspring barrels that provide a power reserve of 90 hours. It also features a free sprung balance spring with Breguet overcoil and a gold escape wheel, that functions without oil. To improve timekeeping stability they choose a balance with a large diameter (12.8 mm).

The Tuscar is limited to 10 pieces called ‘One of Ten’. This first series will be distinctive from models to follow by virtue of materials used in the movement, the design and shape of certain bridges, the type of finish of individual parts and the engraving. So if you’re interested i suggest you contact McGonigle fast!!

The Tuscar ‘One of Ten’ has a white gold case, measuring 42.5 mm and a transparent sapphire dial reveals the new caliber. The sapphire dial is a style feature that was also used on the McGonigle Tourbillon. Speaking of which…

This is the Tourbillon wristwatch that John and Stephen McGonigle released in 2007 at Baselworld. Later i will write more about these candidate members of the AHCI, their first watch and of course the new Tuscar ‘One of Ten’.

Baselworld – McGonigle Tuscar is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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The last few years Cartier surprised me with the new collection. The ending of the Collection Privee Cartier Paris was kind of a shock. However the size of Cartier’s top-end complicated watches was a bigger shock. I’ve always looked at Cartier as a brand with small to medium sized watches, especially in the high-end collection.

Cartier’s top-end complicated watches feature very interesting calibers and complications and the design is (like always) top notch. What bothered me the last few years is that Cartier released several oversized highly complicated watches. Personally i don’t have a problem with oversized watches, however i think the size should suit a watch’s design and function. A 45 mm large tourbillon is something that i just don’t like. When Cartier, the brand with the imago of very moderate sized watches, released oversized complicated watches you might understand my feelings.

After reading the article about the Cartier Tank Mono-poussoir and Tortue Mono-poussoir chronographs i was pleased to see again why i admired this brand so much. The article is written by Cartier connaisseur Geo who also has a magnificent website about Cartier’s mechanical men’s watches. His website, Troisanneaux, is the most complete source for Collection Privee Cartier Paris.

Here you can find the article Cartier and it’s Mono Poussoirs. Photos are from Geo.

Cartier Mono-poussoirs is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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In May of last year it was finally time. The months before had been an intense period. Of course a decision like this was not made overnight, so long lists of potential watches had to be narrowed down. Or maybe the decision was not so difficult, it was just me having difficulty with spending so much money on a watch.

When my decision was final, the deal was made and a ticket to Helsinki was booked… there’s nothing like buying your watch from the watchmaker who made it… no who designed it! It’s his creation that somehow touched me in such way that I wanted this watch. Wanted it so bad that I sold quite a few other watches to raise the funds.

After nine months of almost continuous wearing my Sarpaneva Korona K1, all I can say is that it was my best decision ever (when it comes to watches). On watch forum PuristS Pro i posted an extensive review about my Korona K1 and how it’s made. I hope my review sheds some light on how special this watch is. Have fun reading the review…

And do let me know what you think of it!

Review – Sarpaneva Korona K1 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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In 1992, four years after the brand was launched, the first timepieces where released. Since then Frederique Constant realized a constant yearly growth of 25-30%… impressive isn’t it? In 2004 Frederique Constant released it’s first manufacture movement, the Heart Beat Manufacture Caliber FC-910. In the following years three more calibers where released including a tourbillon. Later i will write more about the Frederique Constant Heart Beat Manufacture calibers.

The above Frederique Constant Maxime Manufacture Automatic was released at Baselworld 2009. The dial shows a combination of a sunray and Clous de Paris pattern, nothing new, but I think it looks very good. The stainless steel case has a diameter of 42 mm and is equipped with a convex sapphire crystal.

Not only it’s classy looks stand out, the prize is just amazing. At the time of release the retail prize was just below € 2.000,- . This makes it the most affordable watch with a manufacture caliber.

Now let’s move on to how you can win one of 5 Frederique Constant watches or $ 5,000 prize money.

Here is the message Frederique Constant has published on their Facebook pages:

It’s now time for you to share with the other fans your Passion of Frederique Constant. From the 1st February until the 30th April 2010, you will have the opportunity to create your video presentation of your Frederique Constant. If you are not yet the lucky owner of a Frederique Constant, don’t worry and be creative in your video about Frederique Constant, you may perhaps become the owner of a Frederique Constant timepiece soon…

There will be the possibility to win 5 nice Frederique Constant watches and $5 000 prize money. The watches will be either an automatic Index Clear Vision (FC-303B6B6) or either a Ladies automatic Double Heart Beat Chocolate (FC-310GDHB2P4). The winners will be the 5 persons who will have the more “like” on his video, but also the video rated as the most creative by Frederique Constant.

You have to submit your video clip, which should last about 3:30 min, in the Frederique Constant fan page on Facebook.

The contest entries may be reused by Frederique Constant on his various channels.

Tips for your video:

• Show us all about your watch: watch box, buckle, strap, case, case back, movement…
• Explain us the main characteristics of your watches!
• Try to tell us a nice story!
• Try to do a dynamic and nice movie of about 3 min 30 sec maximum!
• Be creative
• Invite your friends to vote for your creation!

So far, it only remains us to wish you good luck for this contest!

By the way, these watches can be won…

Check out Frederique Constant’s fan page on Facebook and share your video to win one of the prizes. Good luck!

Win a Frederique Constant watch is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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I’m happy to see the new Villeret Moon Phase or Villeret Phase de Lune Demi-Savonnette as it’s called in French. It has the looks for which i have always liked Blancpain… slim, stylish, classic and timeless design. This is completely different from last year’s announcement to eliminate the beautiful Léman collection and replace it with the ‘loud’ L-Evolution collection.

The Villeret Moon Phase is the first of the Villeret collection to be unveiled. Although the name is Villeret Moon Phase, this classic beauty features a complete calendar with moon-phase. The indicators for day and date do not jump instantly, however the month indicator does.

Blancpain choose to use a so-called half-hunter case. This means the case-back has a lid that can be opened in order to see the movement. A full hunter case also has a lid that should be opened in order to see the time. The 18kt rose gold case has a diameter of 40mm and has a sapphire crystal on both sides.

The calendar mechanism is new and is a secure calendar mechanism with correctors under the lugs! These under-lugs correctors are patented by Blancpain and not only leaves the sides of the watches with a remarkably pure finish, but also means that changes can be accomplished with one’s finger tips instead of requiring a dedicated tool.

The movement is the automatic Blancpain in-house caliber 6654 (measuring 32mm x 5.32mm) with 28 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hours. It’s is fitted with a variable-inertia titanium balance wheel, gold regulation screws and three main spring barrels.

Usually watches with a calendar or moon phase complication have to be adjusted at a specific time of day, making sure all gears are in the correct position. If adjustments are made at the wrong time, this could damage the movement.

This Villeret model features a revolutionary method for adjusting the indications without fear of movement damage, regardless of the time of day. Every single indication can be actuated with the correctors at any time without any damage to the movement. An indication can be halfway through a change and you can push the actuator without risk.

I think the new Villeret Moon Phase looks great and has very nice features! A power reserve of 72 hours, the case has a decent size with it’s 40 mm and being able to adjust the calendar and moon phase indicators at any given moment without damaging the movement is also a great feature!

Baselworld 2010 – Blancpain Villeret Moon Phase is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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The URWERK 203’s case is made of black platinum, a great addition next to the rose & white gold and the AlTiN coated URWERK 202. AITiN was also used for the URWERK 103 Tarantula. However the main difference is it shows the robotic functions of URWERK’s mechanisms to show time.

Robotics? Yes robotics, because URWERK doesn’t use an hour and minute hand like the majority of mechanical watches. The satellite complication is the nerve centre of the UR-203, crafted from ARCAP P40, a stable non-ferrous and non-magnetic alloy. The intricate structure is skelletonized to reveal the internal clockwork. Within the UR-203 the cams, the rubies and the transporters that ensure the alignment of the telescopic hands indicating the minutes, are all revealed.

The telescopic minute hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three vectors marking the minutes: 0 -14; 15 – 44; 45 – 60. Extended, they enable the UR-203 to display the time across a large easy-to-read, dial. Retracted, they allow for a smaller, comfortably sized case providing the wearer with the best of both worlds.

To make a stripped down model distilled to its pure essence, like Martin Frei (URWERK co-founder and designer) wanted, they had to start again at the beginning. Felix Baumgartner, URWERK co-founder and master watchmaker, says they sat down at the drawing board and completely reconsidered the satellite module. “The horological challenge with this complication was to develop a complex mechanism with the minimum of components to ensure its reliability and longevity.”

Now the carousel, hour satellites, telescopic minute hands and dial weigh 65% less than the proceeding model (UR-202). The satellite complication now tips the scales at a feather-light 3.57 grams.

Click on the photo to enlarge

The dial shows an «Oil Change» indicator and a 150 year «Horological Odometer». The «Oil Change» indicator informs the wearer when a service is due; an operation recommended every three years of movement operation. Similar to the odometer of a car, the UR-203’s «Horological Odometer» keeps track of the total number of years of operation of the movement.

The UR-203 is also equipped with URWERK’s double turbine system, the same automatic winding system that is used in the watches of the 200 collection. The turbines are mounted on rubies and are controlled by a three-position lever offering the choice of « FREE », « SPORT » or « STOP ». The position determines the force available from the automatic rotor to wind the mainspring. FREE, where the turbines spin freely; SPORT, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and STOP, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked. The speed of the turbines can reach a maximum 16,500 RPM.

Check out the URWERK website for more details and other models.

SIHH 2010 – URWERK 203 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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The Glashütte Original Senator Sixties, which was released during Baselworld 2007, received massive applause from watch lover all around the world. In 2008 they released a chronograph version, that was also praised. Last year Glashütte Original released yet another version of the Senator Sixties, the Sixties Square Chronograph.

This year finally a version with the typical Glashütte Original Panorama Date, the Senator Sixties Panorama Date. The normal Senator Sixties is in my opinion a beautiful and stylish dress watch, however with addition of the Panorama Date it has a function that is great for daily wear at the office as well.

I think Glashütte Original did a good job positioning the Panorama Date not at the 3 position or between 4 and 5, but centered above the 6 position. This way the dial looks very balanced. Another good detail, GO paid attention to is the black date disks and the white numbers. Well done!

This new model is available with a black or silver dial. The black dial has silver Arabic numerals, white gold baton hour, minute and seconds hands and hour markers. The silver dial has black Arabic numerals, rose gold hands and hour markers and the Panorama Date has black numerals on a white background.

The 42 mm large stainless steel case is 3 mm bigger than the time-only version. Other features like the domed sapphire crystal in front (with anti-reflective coating on both sides) and the sapphire crystal in the back (single sided anti-reflective coating) that is shaped around the movement are still the same.

Until now the PanoMaticLunar XL was only available in rose and white gold. This year Glashütte Original releases a version in stainless steel and with a new dial color…. grey. After another PanoMatic XL model that totally rocked my boat, yet another model in this collection that i just adore. . I think it’s absolutely beautiful and i’m really looking forward to seeing it ‘in the metal’ during Baselworld.

All other specifications remain the same and can be found on the Glashütte Original website.

Baselworld 2010 – Glashütte Original is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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The 2-Timer has been on my wrist for the past 3,5 weeks, except when i rinsed the salt sea-water off and when making photos of the watch. The Linde Werdelin proved to be an absolute reliable partner for traveling, even if you’re going off the beaten track. With it’s rubber strap it was very comfortable to wear with 35 degrees Celsius during day time. Yes 35 degrees Celsius and it’s winter here in India… can you imagine? The sea water’s temperature is around 28 degrees, which is also no punishment.

Now a last photo before i’m going to write the test review…

Linde Werdelin test almost over… is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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The only serieous SIHH pre-release came from Lange und Söhne. In December i already posted the new Lange 1 Daymatic, which instantly became my favorite Lange 1 and probably my favorite from this great manufacterer from Germany. After the SIHH started earlier this week, press releases about new models all come at the same time. It’s impossible to cover them all, so i’ll show a few of my favorite models. One is another novelty of Lange und Söhne that is just so good i have to show it. For all new Lange und Söhne models, check out Perptuelle.com’s overview.

Last year A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk was one of the biggest hits of the SIHH novelties. This year Lange und Söhne comes with another surprise, the Zeitwerk Luminous. Or as the people at Lange & Söhne called it, the Zeitwerk Phantom.

A. Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous... the Phantom?

Another watch that got me really exited comes from Girard Perregaux. And again it’s from the 1966 collection, a collection that got me exited before. The new Girard Perregaux 1966 Chronograph has the looks of a classic chronograph. The movement surprised me! It’s an automatic movement and i somehow expected to see a manually wound caliber. Girard-Perregaux movement GP030C0 is a column wheel chronograph with a 30 minute counter.

Girard Perregaux 1966 Chronograph

When i’m back from my vacation it’s time to share more about the Baselworld novelties!

SIHH vs. Baselworld is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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A few days ago i shared some photos of my trip with the 2-Timer on my wrist. My experiences will come later, so for now i’ll share some more photos. Yesterday i picked up an old Royal Enfield. Riding an old Royal Enfield in India has been a dream since i got my drivers licence, when i was 18.

Since i arrived in India my transport was a scooter, which is the main form of transport to most people in Goa. The Linde Werdelin 2-Timer has been on my wrist all the time. On the scooter, on the beach and in the sea. Until now it runs perfectly and during the darker hours, that start around 6.30 PM the super luminova, which is applied on the 5-minute markers and hands, has been my friend.

Thursday the Royal Enfield is supposed to take me from the north of Goa to Gokarna, which is 150 kilometers to the south. The road will be totally different from anything we are used to in Europe, the United States and several countries in the far east. The 2-Timer will of course be on my wrist during this ‘rough’ ride on roads with more holes than asphalt, mountain roads, horrible diesel smell coming from old trucks, trying to avoid the occassional cow on the road.

The funny thing is, that it will be accompanied by another swiss measuring device!

Let’s hope the old motorcycle will bring me to Gokarna without too much trouble.

One last photo before i strap the Linde Werdelin 2-Timer on my wrist again…

If everything goes well i’ll post more photos in a few days…

Linde Werdelin test – part 2 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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