Something completely new from Hublot: an extra-thin skeleton watch. Hublot created a model in the Classic Fusion collection by adding a skeletonized dial and a brand new in-house extra-thin movement. 

At Monochrome we already asked ourselves if Piaget was going to set a trend and judging on the recent developments, like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin, we guess guess they did. Although the new Hublot Classic Fusion Extra-Thin Skeleton and fore-mentioned AP RO don’t have fully PVD coated movement, they are extra-thin and skeletonized.

The new Hublot caliber HUB1300 is 2.90 mm thick, which is 0.20 mm thicker than Piaget’s caliber 838P. Both calibers are skeletonized and hand-wound. Although the difference in thickness of the movement is minimal, Hublot’s case seems much thicker. The movement Audemars Piguet used in the Royal Oak Openworked is the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 5122, which is 3.05 mm thick (same thickness as the famous caliber 2121).

Skeletonizing an extra-thin movement is difficult and it’s not possible to set a new record for the thinnest movement, if you plan to skeletonize it. Simply imagine a movement of less than 3 mm thick… indeed, that’s as thick as two credit cards! And it still has to power your watch with at least a day of power reserve and run within COSC specifications.

Hublot did a spectacular job here, delivering no less than 90 hours of power reserve from this extra-thin movement! Some more specs: 123 components, 23 jewels and it beats with 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz).

The skeletonized dial makes it possible to see the watch’s escapement. The dial side features a small seconds at 7 o’clock.

The new Hublot Classic Fusion Extra-Thin Skeleton measures 45 mm in diameter and this is the largest size available in the Classic Fusion collection. Other watches in that collection measure 38 mm and 42 mm in diameter. The new Classic Fusion Extra-Thin Skeleton is 50 meters water resistant and is available in two versions, one in titanium, limited to 1000 pieces, and the other in 18K ‘King Gold’, with just 500 pieces.

More info can be found at the Hublot website.

Related posts:

1. Audemars Piguet – Jules Audemars Extra-Thin Bolshoi Limited Edition
2. Pre SIHH 2012 – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin 40th Anniversary
3. Hublot – An extraordinary breed of watches

It’s probably no surprise that the brands exposing at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or short SIHH, are competitors. What is maybe not as well-known is that during this show the biggest competition is not about watches. It’s about the booth!

In 1986, a movie turned a famous actor into a worldwide super star. Tom Cruise was playing the role of a young and talented fighter pilot joining the elite Navy fighter Weapon School based in Miramar, north of San Diego, in California. This school is world famous under its nickname: Top Gun!

If you ever get the chance to pilot a jet aircraft, this is great, no it’s spectacular. If you can fly an american high-tech jet aircraft, this is absolutely awesome. Now imagine the very few pilots who get to fly the latest and greatest aircrafts, take off from an aircraft carrier for missions no smaller than protecting the Nation, and again land on that small floating island regardless of the sea state or time of the day. It is hard to find anything that would give anyone a bigger adrenaline rush.

(c)www.defense.gov

Now get ready for the next challenge. How about a company who would bring an aircraft carrier in a landlocked country, to immerse their fans and customers into the very ‘Miramarian’ atmosphere of Top Gun. That’s exactly what IWC did this year!

The lucky people who made it to SIHH this year probably all got their breath taken away when discovering the booth of the brand. I surely did.

The USS F.A. Jones is an extremely realistic reproduction of not only the flight deck of a modern aircraft carrier but also the inside of the ship, from the officers briefing rooms to the pilot locker room and the flight deck control room. There was one very noticeable upgrade: the bar of the USS F.A. Jones at the SIHH was serving champagne and other refreshments and snacks, which are probably not easily available onboard an aircraft carrier in operation.

One could meet gents in fly-suits or chat with lovely smiling ladies all well-dressed for the ocassion.

Besides watches, the main attraction was a very realistic flight simulator. Realistic is an understatement as one would actually sit in a cockpit with all the gear of a real aircraft including the ejection seat.

Instead of a head-up display, a large flat screen would let you forget where you are in no time and you would end up fully focused on landing a multi-million-dollar machine safely on the deck of the USS F.A. Jones. A simulator coach would try to minimize your mistakes, while your performance is displayed on very large screen for the pleasure of the people queuing to take your seat.

If there is one rule in fairs, it can be summarized by : “impress the press”. No doubt that IWC scored sky high with the presentation of the new products of 2012 in a room that looked like the war room at the Pentagon.

In the whole booth, no effort was spared, no shortcuts were taken, to make you feel that you were a crew member of a battle ship on a mission. Everything felt right, down to the last detail.

Finally, this is about watches, and again, the theme of the navy jetfighters and aircraft carrier could be seen in every window. A clever superposition of sandblasted glass gave the feeling that we were looking at the watches through a head-up display.

If we needed a sign for the focus of IWC for the coming years, it is all in this impressive booth, powerfull flying machine, adrenaline pumped experiences. Buckle your 5 point safety belt, thumbs up, and… the sky is the limit!

Related posts:

1. Blogging LIVE from the Montblanc booth at the SIHH 2012
2. Pre-SIHH 2012 – New Cartier Tank – what will it look like?
3. Pre-SIHH 2012 – new IWC Pilot Watch TOP GUN Collection and much more news

The Weekly Watch Photo is back. After a hectic month (the SIHH) we found some great photos of one of our favorite watches of last year. For a second time the Sarpaneva Korona K3 Northern Stars features as our Weekly Watch Photo. 

Stepan Sarpaneva shot these photos himself with his iPhone. I must say that I’m impressed, because these photos capture Sarpaneva’s magnificent golden moon phase/face with a lovely sunny glow. And suitable for a watch made in Finland, it’s shown in the winter snow.

Ever since Sarpaneva launched the first Korona K3 with its distinctive moon phase indicator, this moon ‘face’ has become a recognizable theme for Sarpaneva. The Korona K3 Northern Stars is now available in several combinations of cases and dials. Besides versions is stainless steel, gold and black DLC coated cases, there is also an ‘iced’ version with 1.92 carats of diamonds.

These photos show the beautiful finish of the case, which features a very stylish combination of polished and brushed finish. While the mid-case and lugs are brushed, the scalloped bezel and signature Sarpaneva crown are polished.

The 42 mm large case has very short and sculptured lugs, which make the watch wear smaller than one would expect. And comfortable, very comfortable!

At the upcoming Baselworld fair, Sarpaneva will show the final production version of the Korona K0 Dive Watch, of which he showed the prototype two years ago.

Related posts:

1. Weekly Watch Photo – Sarpaneva K3 Northern Stars
2. New versions of Sarpaneva Korona K3 Northern Stars
3. New Sarpaneva Korona K3

In June 2011 F.P. Journe launched the first watch that was made of aluminium. That is, the case and bracelet were made of aluminium; the movement was still made from 18k rose gold. Today F.P. Journe launches a new watch, the Octa Sport, that is made of aluminium… entirely made of aluminium! 

The Centigraph Sport is the aluminium version of one of the most beautiful chronographs ever created and when Journe launched it last year I was very curious how he made this metal scratch and corrosion proof. Apparently he did manage this because today he launches the Octa Sport with a movement made of an aluminium alloy used in the aeronautics.

Thinking of aluminium,  the word ‘light’ comes to mind. And indeed the new Octa Sport is light, very light in fact as it weights only 53 grams! Because of its lightness, the 42 mm large and 11.6 mm thick aluminium case will be very comfortable on the wrist, and as Journe says it will be perfect for a sporty lifestyle. To increase night legibility, the hands and hour index dots treated with super luminova.

Displayed on the grey dial, are a central hour and minute hand, small seconds at 6 o’clock, a big date at 1 o’clock and a day/night indicator at 9. The power reserve indicator between 10 and 11 o’clock, tells you how much of the 120 hours of power reserve is left.

While all other movement from F.P. Journe are made from 18K rose gold, this is the first movement ever to be created from aluminium. The aluminium was treated in order to make the aluminium scratch resistant and give it anti-corrosive and anti-allergic properties.

Although the Octa Sport aluminum movement, is made of a aluminium alloy, it still preserves all typical features of all F.P. Journe Octa calibers, with a five day power reserve and a variable inertia balance wheel for an optimal rate stability. The rotor of the Octa Sport is also made of aluminum alloy, but in order to increase inertia and thus to increase the winding speed, a tungsten segment was added as winding mass.

Rubber inserts are fixed to the sides of the case to protect the watch from any shocks. If you choose for the bracelet, the end of each bracelet link is also fixed with rubber ends. The crown and the folding clasp, engraved with the F.P.Journe signature, are also covered with a rubber coating.

Octa Sport – Technical Specifications

• Automatic movement – Calibre FPJ 1300-3 – made of aluminium alloy
• Unidirectional automatic winding - Off centre winding rotor in Titanium with Tungsten segment
• Balance with 4 adjustable inertia weights (10.10 mg/cm2)
• Anachron free-sprung flat balance spring, with mobile stud holder
• Frequency : 21’600 Alt/h, 3 Hz
• Autonomy: 120 hours
• Decoration: circular Côtes de Genève on bridges, partly circular graining on baseplate, polished screw heads with chamfered slots, chamfered and circular grained wheels, steel components are hand polished and chamfered
• Number of parts Movement without dial 286 - Jewels 40
• Weight Total weight 53 g
• Movement alone 11 g
• Sapphire glass sub dial 2 g

Judging from the specification this is a very impressive watch and build according to the highest quality standard. And that is one thing, that F.P. Journe does not need a COSC or Geneva Seal for. His own standards are simply enough and they really are.

I’m very interested I getting some hands-on time with the new Octa Sport and Centigraph Sport and if this happens, I will of course report about it.

More information can be found through the F.P. Journe website.

Related posts:

1. The auction Hammer – F.P. Journe Vagabondage I
2. Glashütte Original Sport Evo Perpetual
3. Old school – Glashütte Original Sport Chronograph

Unusual… that’s probably the best word for a watch with a red dial. In this case however it’s not only unusual, but also very cool! The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge looks cool and sophisticated. 

I have to admit that I’m kind of conservative when choosing a watch for my own wrist. The Hautlence HL Ti 02 is an exception, although its design looks kind of futuristic, it still features a monochrome color scheme and no wild and colorful dial. Meet the exception…

Usually even a case made in yellow, pink or red gold is too flashy for my taste and I prefer white metals. Similar with dials, I prefer them black, white, silver or anthracite. I know this might sound boring, but I think there’s enough variation within these parameters. You won’t easily see a watch with a colorful dial in my personal collection or on my wish list. So imagine my surprise when I strapped the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge on my wrist!

The case with its ultra thin design is sleek and elegant, and even the dark red dial isn’t too wild or outgoing. At least not for my taste. So let’s call it outgoing in an understated way. Eccentric, but stylish.

This may be considered as an odd thing. In the world of Haute Horlogerie there are not much watches with a ‘loud’ dial. Usually the design remains classic and so is the use of colors. Of course there are some deviations of the classical theme, but there are just a few without looking at Hublot.

A few years ago Girard-Perregaux created a chronograph for Ferrari with a red dial. And of course there is Franck Müller, one of the few who isn’t afraid of a colorful dial. Recently he proved (again) with his donation to Only Watch. The Franck Müller ‘Totally Switzerland’ sported a bright red dial with a white cross. The dial is very red and much too red for my taste.

The red of this new Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge is much darker red. It’s so elegant I would almost forget that it’s red. And although I’m quite conservative when it comes to watches, yes even for me, this would be a perfect watch for wearing on a daily basis to the office.

This Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge is a so-called Boutique Edition and thus only for sale at Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutiques.

Check the Jaeger-LeCoultre website for information about the Boutiques.

Related posts:

1. Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge – with photos of the original
2. Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin and Tribute to 1931
3. New Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Email

Last year we started with the Laurent Ferrier Tourbillon Double Spiral as our first Weekly Watch Photo and now we’d love to show you a limited edition Tourbillon Double Spiral and news about improvements on the movement of the Galet Micro Rotor. 

As a special order for a customer, Laurent Ferrier made a version of the Tourbillon Double Spiral in red gold with applied red gold Roman numerals. Instead of the white enamel dial or the black onyx dial, this limited edition features a slate grey dial. In 2010 Laurent Ferrier was awarded Best Men’s Watch in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

After a special version of the Tourbillon Double Spiral, the Tourbillon Double Spiral Secret, that was launched end of 2010, an entirely new model was launched at the beginning of 2011. This new version was the Galet Micro-Rotor and offers an automatic movement with a micro rotor as power source.

The case features the same aesthetics as the case of the Tourbillon Double Spiral, and also shares the same ball-shaped winding-crown and ‘assegai-shaped’ hour and minute hands, and a baton-type seconds hand. The case of the Galet Micro-Rotor measures 40 mm in diameter and is 10.7 mm thick.

The difference (at least visually) is the dial. No white enamel or black onyx dial, but the Galet Micro-Rotor is available with a silver or slate grey dial, adorned with a vertical satin-brushed finish and applied hour indices . All together an incredibly elegant and understated chic, classic dress watch. In my opinion its design is a perfect contrast with what’s ‘under the hood’. There we find a beautifully crafted and technically very interesting mechanical movement.

Let first take a look at the movement and its intricate beauty. The finishing of the movement is done in the finest watchmaking traditions, by hand of course!

• Bridges are finished with Côtes de Genève stripes
• Mainplate is finished with circular graining
• Flanks of bridges are beveled
• Wheel spokes are beveled
• Screw heads are polished
• Interior angles of the balance cock are beveled and polished
• Micro-rotor bridge is bevelend and polished

The movement is wound with a micro-rotor, something valued by connoisseurs, because it makes it possible to reduce the thickness of the movement. Usually a micro-rotor is less efficient when it comes to winding and on average, a micro-rotor needs twice as much rotations  (300 vs. 150) for one complete turn of the ratchet wheel. This is because a micro-rotor has a lower inertia than a full rotor. Laurent Ferrier found the solution in increasing the efficiency of the the escapement by one third and thus his micro-rotor needs only 200 rotation for a full turn of the ratchet wheel.

How did Laurent Ferrier increase the efficiency in the escapement?

One of the methods (yes one, read on to see more methods) was to give a double direct impulse on the balance. To keep the escapement from wear, it was made of silicon. Because of the double direct impulse direct on the balance, Laurent Ferrier was able to reduce the moment of couple (or torque) required to wind the mainspring and hence optimizes the movement winding.

What is a “double direct impulse on the balance”?

The idea is that this escapement can give two impulses per oscillation (1 oscillation = 2 vibrations), twice as much as a normal lever escapement. This means that the movement’s frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vph) allows to impulse the balance 21,600 times per hour.

Here’s a metaphor to explain the double direct impulse by comparing it with a swing. With a detent escapement you push the swing once and you wait until it bounces back to give it the next impulse. With the double direct impulse escapement you push the swing and another person opposite pushes it back on his side.

Another way to improve the efficiency in the movement, and make it possible that this micro-rotor needs only 200 rotations in comparison to other micro-rotors that need 300 rotations, is an efficient winding system where the ‘noisy’ ball-bearing system has been replaced by a more traditional horological mechanism with pawls. The micro-rotor is fitted with a unidirectional-winding gold oscillating weight.

=> Did you know that an oscillating weight that winds unidirectional, is more efficient than an oscillating weight that winds bi-directional. 

The winding rotor is fixed directly between the mainplate and its micro-rotor bridge, in order to ensure maximum stability compared with a conventional micro-rotor. Furthermore the shock protection system uses the principle of the silent bloc: the micro rotor is mounted on its axis between two O-rings. Also the winding of  main spring barrel is optimized in the same way, however it is mounted on rubies. Because of all these efficiency measures, the manually wound movement has a power reserve of 80 hours.

Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor prototype

When I visited Laurent Ferrier in his atelier in Geneva recently, he showed me a prototype with a silver dial with vertical satin-brushed finish and red gold hour markers and hands. It looks great, giving the watch an extra classic touch. What do you think?

The Galet Micro-Rotor is available in white or red gold for a price of 49’000 CHF.

More information can be found via the Laurent Ferrier website.

Related posts:

1. Laurent Ferrier Galet Secret Tourbillon Double Spiral
2. Weekly Watch Photo – Laurent Ferrier Tourbillon Double Spiral
3. Vote for Timezone Watch of the Year 2010

Three years after Omega launched the Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial GMT Chronograph, Omega now launches the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT. Visually many similarities, however without the chronograph and now with Omega’s proprietary co-axial caliber 8605/8615 GMT movement. 

In terms of function it still does the same as any movement based on an ETA 2893; hour, minutes, seconds, date and a central 24 hour (GMT) hand. Technically however, the movement is much nicer. But let’s first look at its appearance.

With a diameter of 43 mm, the case is 1 mm smaller than the Aqua Terra GMT Chronograph. It is available in red gold, stainless steel or in a TwoTone version of 18 Ct red gold and stainless steel, and it comes on either a bracelet or on a black, brown or blue leather strap.

“The dial is distinguished by the teak pattern associated with the Aqua Terra collection. The vertical lines are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats.” Well, that libe of text was from the press release and I still think marketing is an interesting trade  Let’s say the tuxedo striped on the dial look quite distinguished.

The applied indexes are made of 18 Ct gold, brushed and polished, and than coated with white Super-LumiNova. The hands are also 18 Ct white or red gold and coated with white Super-LumiNova. The sapphire crystal on the screw-in caseback allows a clear view of the Co-Axial movement inside.

Did you know that the GMT hand can also be used for compass orientation? When the watch is held parallel to the ground with its hour hand pointed in the direction of the sun, the GMT hand (when it is adjusted to the same time on the 24-hour GMT display) will indicate north. But this will only work in the Northern hemisphere.

The Co-Axial escapement

In the first lines of this blog, I stated the movement does more or less the same as an ETA 2893, but it is much nicer. How is it nicer you might wonder? Technically it’s much nicer and although standard ETA movements are build to last a life-time, in theory the new Omega co-axial movements should be able to last a few life-times and should be able to run at a more steady rate.

Omega uses co-axial escapements, a technical innovation they bought from the late mr. George Daniels, and they use this in conjunction with a free sprung-balance. This is different from a conventional Swiss lever escapement, which is used in ETA movements.

The watch’s rate can be adjusted by modifying the moment of inertia of the balance by means of gold regulating screws in the balance (is called a screw balance). This design avoids the disturbing effects of contact between the balance-spring and the index pins. On a normal Swiss lever escapement with index, the regulating is done by making the balance spring longer or shorter, with an index. The contact between the index and the balance spring is necessary, but comes with the risk of getting sticky because of magnetism or oil. And that’s something that has a very bad influence on the watch’s rate!

The stability of rate offered by the Co-Axial escapement is maintained over long periods of use. Furthermore, the direct impuls given to the palet, reduces friction which means that there is almost no need for lubrication. The Co-Axial calibres have long service intervals and the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT, which is also equipped with a silicon (!!) balance and balance spring, meaning no negative influence by either gravity or magnetism.

All together Omega’s new co-axial movements are very impressive. However they do come at another price level as when Omega used run-off-the-mill ETA movements.

Related posts:

1. New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial GMT Chronograph
2. Weekly Watch Photo – Omega Seamaster Ploprof
3. The new Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph with in-house calibre 9300

The Swiss/French watch forum Horlogerie-Suisse collaborated with Alpina Watches to create a limited edition of just 50 pieces, in celebration of their 10th anniversary. The Alpina Startimer Pilot Manufacture, yes indeed like the name already indicates, is equipped with an in-house designed and manufactured movement. 

It can be bought, strictly online at Horlogerie Suisse, for an Anniversary Price 2001-2011 of CHF 2011.00. Just consider this, a brand new watch with a manufacture movement, for just 2011 Swiss Francs. Now that sounds like an absolute bargain and to be honest, it is. We heard there are only a few left…

Compared to the ‘normal’ Alpina Startimer Manufacture, the counter weight of the second hand is now green in stead of red. The name of the forum is also engraved in the case back.

The in-house movement, caliber AL710, can be seen though the sapphire crystal in the case back. This movement features an automatic winding mechanism incorporating Alpina’s trademark rotor; a salute to the designers (Straub & Co.) of Alpina’s first automatic calibre of 1945, the 582.

The movement’s plate shows “AL 950/1″ which is the movement reference of another Alpina Startimer, the Manufacture Regulator. Alpina’s website does not  shed more light on this, however based on the fact both watches (Alpina Startimer Pilot Manufacture and the Alpina Startimer Manufacture Regulator) share the same pointer date at 6 o’clock, we believe these movements (AL-710 and AL-950) are almost similar in specifications and maybe even share the same plate.

The balance is held in place by a balance bridge in stead of a balance cock, which makes it more sturdy. Furthermore we see blue screws and Côte de Genève striping. The finishing is machined, but still looks nice, especially when considering its price. Caliber AL-710 offers a 42-hour power reserve.

If you like to own this watch for 2011 CHF than better check out the Horlogerie-Suisse forum.

Related posts:

1. Pellikaan Timing Limited Edition FC Utrecht
2. new Doxa limited edition – TUSA
3. Limited edition Sinn U1

In the world of watchmaking, it is hard to differenciate. Big groups own many multi-secular houses and compete with marketing budgets counted in billions. They differenciate in the way they link tradition, brand history and new models.

Now, in the world of independant watchmaking, it is a completly different ball game. Marketing budgets are far more moderate. Companies are as small one person, generally a few more, rarely a hundred. The production goes from a couple of tens to a couple of hundred watches a year.

So, the competition is nothing like the one between the established brands. They don’t have two centuries of watchmaking tradition in the archives of their companies, they can’t get a moviestar to wear their watch at the Oscar night; they have to be different by nature and they have to excel.

In other words they have to think different, all the time. They also have to pump tremendous added value into their products, because their customers are sharp collectors who know their watchmaking classics like the back of their hand and are not impressed easily.

I recently had the chance to visit such an independant brand for which everything is really different. Ladoire Geneve is a fascinating brand. It seems not possible to work in that team if you are not setting excellence as a target and try passionately your best to reach it.

At first, the main office and workshop is different. Well, I guess entering the building by mistake through the fire exit certainly gave me a feeling that the afternoon would be very different.

I was welcomed in the luminous office located right next to the workshop where the winter sun was playing the shadow game with the shutters.

Three watchmakers were quietly working at their bench, assembling the last models of Mister Green. And mister green even unfinished, on the bench, looks quite appealing. The green glow gets you hypnotized very quickly.

I got the chance to take pictures of the disks with numbers from 1 to 12. I believe they are manufactured using LIGA technology, allowing an impressive accuracy in the shapes and surfaces that even a x12 magnifier could not trap.

Then, I was served with ‘plat de resistance’ (main course, in french). A fantastic unique piece, called RGT (Roller Guardian Time) White Custom.

As mentioned earlier, the production of independant watchmaker is high in quality and small in number. It is far more rare to see a piece unique. This is what a Ladoire custom is.

To fully understand the concept, simply switch to the world of cars and bikes. If you think your everyday car should look like this…

Camaro by Bo Zolland

…or your week-end bike for a ride like this….

(c) Tibor

…then you know all about custom and how to appreciate it.

Well , a Ladoire custom comes with the same spirit. First class mechanics, with fully personalized details, directly designed by Mr Ladoire himself. If you are thinking what sort of watch could be the best association to the Ford GT monster you have in the garage, the white one with the 2 bold black stripes on the bonnet, then the RGT White Custom is made for you.

Ladoire has packed the in-house engine full of very rare features: The various bridges of the whole calibre are arranged circularly aound the micro-rotor. The profile of the cogs is optimized and the various indications (hours, minutes, seconds and second time zone) rotate on microscopic small ceramic ball bearings.

It requires some time to get accustomed to this display of information, just like it takes some time to get used to drive a muscle car.

The sapphire glass on the dial side is especially designed to give this unique effect when you look at the dial from the side as if it was immersed in water.

The finish of the calibre is sharp and very traditional before being customized using various techniques. Just like for cars, what differenciate a custom-shop from another is the attention to details. This goes for teh watch and this goes for the buckle as well.

With Ladoire, you can close your eyes because they looked, they checked, and re-checked everything, as many times as required. It is as close to a perfect finish as you can find. Now, open your eyes, pump the volume of the machine playing your best rock band, and enjoy this different way Ladoire creates Helvetic mechanics.

At this point, if you question the reason for the title of this article, I can only answer: Passion. The star logo present on custom watches can also be seen as a large tatoo on Lionel Ladoire forearm. Passion, full throttle!

Related posts:

1. The all new Ladoire Mr.Green
2. Ladoire Geneve – Helvetic timepieces
3. Teaser of Ladoire Black Widow

During the fair in Geneva, we got hands on time with the new Montblanc TimeWalker TwinFly GreyTech. This is a new ‘Monochrome’ version of the ‘normal’ TimeWalker TwinFly that Montblanc introduced last year. 

The TimeWalker TwinFly features the impressive in-house movement, caliber MB LL100. Like the first caliber-family, which is used in the Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph, it has a double mainspring barrel offering a power reserve of 72 hours and a chronograph that is actuated through a column wheel and vertical clutch!

The in-house movement is very impressive and when considering the price of the TwinFly, it’s even better. The specifications and the fact it has an in-house movement, are usually not found in watches in the same price range. Let’s take a look at the specifications:

• In-house automatic chronograph caliber
• Double flyback function (seconds and minutes)
• Column wheel and vertical disc clutch
• Second time zone with 24 hour display
• Date
• Two mainspring barrels with 72 hours of power reserve

Most watches in the price range up to roughly € 5,000 Euro are equipped with either an ETA/Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph (which can be recognized by the registers at 6, 9 and 12) or a tri-compax ETA 2894 (tri-compax chronographs have registers at 3, 6 and 9). These offer a power reserve of around 40-45 hours and the chronograph is activated by levers and/or cams.

The column-wheel 

The photo on the left shows a detail of the movement of a Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Vintage Chronograph. The red arrow points at the column-wheel. If one of the chronograph pushers is pushed, this wheel will rotate and the various parts of the several ‘fingers’ will fall into or be pushed out of the spaces between the teeth. The ‘fingers’ are parts of levers, which control the chronograph.

A more common way to actuate the chronograph is ‘slideway switching’, which uses a cam that coordinates the start, stop and reset. So the cam actually performs the same function as the column-wheel, however the cam is rather long. Because of this, the chronographs using a ‘slideway switch’ or cam might give less feeling of ‘control’ than a chronograph that is actuated by a column-wheel.

Producing and finishing a column-wheel is labor-intensive and so is the hand adjustment that a column-wheel requires. The pinion can be built using pieces of stamped metal.

Vertical Clutch

The TimeWalker TwinFly also uses a vertical clutch system to engage the chronograph. There are actually two ways to engage a chronograph; the vertical clutch and gear mesh coupling. While gear mesh coupling is the classic approach, it suffers from loss of beat amplitude and runs the risk of a skip in the second hand motion. The vertical friction approach, of vertical clutch, might be less interesting to look at but assures a smooth and low-impact start of chronograph movement. This is something that can be seen, when starting a chronograph.

When a chronograph with a vertical clutch is started, the seconds hand will start immediately and it’ll be at the correct speed once it activated. The seconds hand of a chronograph using gear mesh coupling will show a ‘slow’ start that looks like it has to gain speed.

Besides all the impressive technicality, the movement is in the same ‘monochrome’ color-scheme as the rest of the watch. The bridges are finished with Côte de Genève stripes and are black/grey coated. The rotor is mostly skeletonized accept for the Montblanc logo.

The case of the TimeWalker TwinFly has the familiar TimeWalker design with skeletonized lugs. This particular GreyTech version, which is limited to 888 pieces, has a ‘monochrome’ design and the chromatic spectrum is primarily reduced to a narrow range from black to silvery grey. The titanium case and lugs have been satinized, while the bezel and pushers are bead-blasted to get a rougher finish. The crown features the well-known Montblanc logo and the screws to secure the strap also feature the logo.

The dial is skeletonized to reveal the date wheel, which is grey with black numerals. The Arabic hour numerals and stick markers are printed in black, on a grey dial. In the middle of the dial is a checkered pattern.

Twin FlyBack

Centrally positioned are the seconds and minute counter of the chronograph. This is where the TwinFly part of the name comes from, because these hands have a fly-back function. Around the checkered middle is the chronograph minute index printed in white numerals.

A flyback chrono works as follows:  after the chrono button starts the chronograph is pushed, the chronograph is activated and the central seconds hand starts running. To record a second time, push the reset button, while the chronograph is running, to reset the central seconds hand and the hand that indicates the elapsed minutes. The instant you release that button, the chronograph will continue timing. Opposed to a normal chrono this requires only one push of a button to start recording a new elapsed time, while the normal chrono would require pushing the stop button, pushing the reset button and again pushing the start button again.

At the 6 o’clock position is the running seconds counter and at the 12 o’clock position is the second time zone, displayed in 24 hours.

With a diameter of 43 mm it wears great and if you’re afraid it might be too large than by all means go and try one at a local AD. Because the case tapers from top to bottom, it wears relatively small, which is further enhanced because of the quite short lugs. Altogether it wears very comfortable. The material of the case, titanium, also adds to this because it’s quite light.

The TwinFly GreyTech comes on a grey alligator strap, with a skeletonized titanium clasp and is available for € 10,990 Euro (including tax). The stainless steel version on strap comes at a price of € 5,800 Euro, on bracelet for € 6,000 Euro.

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