The first collection Hautlence released was the HL collection featuring a remarkable TV screen shaped case. And at least as remarkable is everything that is visible on the dial side. A jumping disk revealing the hours and a retrograde minute hand with it’s entire mechanics visible. Especially the mechanics of the retrograde minute hand in the TV screen shaped case stood out from the crowd, when it was released.

After the brand was created in 2004, the first watch of the HL collection was launched in 2005. In the following years more model in this collection and the HLs collection where launched. In 2008 the round HLq collection was launched. These collections all feature the for Hautlence so typical way to display hours and minutes.

Instead of a disk displaying the jumping hour through a fixed aperture, Hautlence displays the hours on a fixed disk. On top of that a disk with an aperture jumps to reveal the hour. Technically this is no walk in the park, because this kind of jumping hour display requires more energy and inertia. Now how does this work? The canon pinion of the traditional minute hand (1) rotates 360 degrees in one hour. Attached to this canon pinion is a cam (2) which moves a rod (3) through the intermediary of a so-called sensor (4). Because of this, the rod (3) moves from right to left.

Are you still with me? Sure hope so… Now the rod (3) moves the minute hand (6) via an intermediary connecting rod (5). The rod (3) is connected with a spring and several gears that control the jumping disk that reveals the hours. Here’s a photo of an old movement to compare.

Of course there’s much more to it, however let’s be honest. I’m a watch aficionado and no technical engineer nor a watchmaker. Hautlence has three different collections using this for Hautlence so typical way to display time. The newest addition to Hautlence’s collections is the HL2.0. On the different forums and website that’s been much amazement and cheering about this technical marvel. After reading about it and even after seeing it myself I’m still blown away by this timepiece. In a previous post i explained more about the Hautlence HL2.0 and how it works.

Especially the combination of design and technique is something that makes my watch-loving heart beat faster. The rotating escapement can be admired through the crystal, that is wrapped around it. From both front and back side the hour chain and every cam, lever, gear, etc that moves it, can also be admired. Although it’s a watch that tells the time, this is also a technical masterpiece that will be enjoyed by every man who used to be crazy about Meccano or Lego. And like on the HL collection, Hautlence choose again to reveal much of the technical parts of the watch. Just take a look at the escapement…

This year Hautlence released a new version with honeycomb dial in the HL collection. This particular model in titanium is an absolute pleasure to wear. The size is perfect, it feels great around the wrist and the looks… are just stunning. So round to round it up, a wristshot of my favorite Hautlence, the HL-Ti with honeycomb dial of the new 2010 collection.

The technical creations of Hautlence is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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In the following weeks I’ll write much more about these visits, so stay tuned.

Visiting Kari Voutilainen was on my wishlist for a long time. To me his watches are the most perfect classic handmade watches I have seen and his Observatoire is in my opinion the perfect dress watch. Simple yet intriguing. We where shown around in the beautiful house where the workshop and ateliers are as well. There will be news but we just have to wait a bit longer… but it’s well worth waiting for!

After the visit to Kari Voutilainen we drove up into the mountains to visit De Bethune. Maybe this brand is the perfect switch over from the classic design of Voutilainen’s watches to everything we will see the rest of the week. De Bethune started with rather classical designed watches, yet with something special. And that something special has grown to become an integral part of De Bethune’s design and watchmaking art. This for instance is one the De Bethune DB12 RT that’s for sale at a local watch store. Classic with a twist?

The next morning we were meeting with Max Busser of MB&F. MB&F as a young brand has made a progression that is almost impossible in watchmaking. Four entire collections and some special editions with more design change than just a different color of the dial. This very impressive achievement is because of Max Busser’s vision and drive. Of course he couldn’t do all of this alone so he had a little help from his friends (somehow this sentence makes me think of the Beatles). On the photo below I’m wearing the HM4 Thunderbolt… doesn’t it look great!

The tour continued to Neuchâtel to meet with Guillaume Tetu of Hautlence. Hautlence recently launched their HL2.0 which is a magnificent timepiece with equally magnificent looks and technique. Hautlence makes beautiful and extraordinary watches for a longer time already. I can still remember seeing the HL series with tv screen case for the first time, because it was so different from everything else I had seen until than. Here already a wristshot of the HL2.0… later more about this extraordinary timepiece!

I must say my head was spinning after seeing so many beautiful watches and this was not the end of the tour… The next morning we met with Yacine of URWERK to see the recently released CC1 in black.

Than we met with Lionel Ladoire and Richard Piras of Ladoire. Ladoire is a relatively new brand based in Geneva. The Ladoire Roller Guardian Time (RGT) is a bold statement of how traditional watchmaking and funky modern design can be mixed. Just look how the Ladoire RGT Black & Black look on Lionel’s wrist, showing the beautiful RGT buckle V.1 on the other wrist.

And last but definitely not least, we met with MCT Watches. Denis Giguet, founder of MCT Watches talked about the Sequential One, the new All Black and new timepieces that will be released. Again a relatively new watch brand and again a brand with an innovative drive that is just spectacular.

My sincerest thanks to Ian Skellern for organizing the meetings and letting me use some of his photos!

Monochrome’s Tour de Suisse part 2 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Thomas Prescher’s atelier is in Twann, a small village down the road of Biel-Bienne toward Neuchatel, next to Lake Biel-Bienne. This is where he creates the incredible triple axis tourbillon, a masterpiece no other watchmaker has successfully produced to this day. The Triple Axis Tourbillon was initially presented together with a Single Axis and Double Axis Tourbillon, as the Trilogy. In following reports I’ll tell more about Prescher‘s Trilogy, Tempus Vivendi, Scultura Una and maybe some news…?

At Baselworld 2009 Peter Speake-Marin launched caliber SM2, which he designed with sturdiness, reliability and ease of maintenance in mind. Being a (very good) watchmaker, he knows the importance of these principles and now integrated them with some typical British watchmaking elements.

It’s no secret anymore that Speake-Marin will launch another new, entirely self developed, movement pretty soon. Although caliber SM2 was designed to be the basis for several future movements, quite a bit of significant changes had to be made for the new caliber. It won’t be long and for now all i can say is that I am very exited about Speake-Marin’s new movement and everything that will surround it.

Now it won’t be fair to compare anything I have seen (and probably will see) to the following manufacture I visited. Every watch Greubel Forsey create is incredibly impressive. It really is another league and I think it’s best described as a league of their own. I know this sounds like big words, but if you are every in the position to see and touch one of the Greubel Forsey timepieces i’m sure you’ll feel the same.

Gruebel Forsey‘s design is bold and so everything about the watches. They are not for the faint of heart… The most recent release is the Double Tourbillon 30 degrees Historique. Limited to 11 pieces in red gold and 11 pieces in platinum, they will be the last of in total 186 pieces of the Double Tourbillon 30 Degrees to be produced.

First visits of Monochrome’s Tour de Suisse is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Worldwide there are a few dozen of independent watchmakers who really make extraordinary watches, at least in my opinion. This weekend I will visit Thomas Prescher and finally get to see his amazing single axis, double axis and even triple axis tourbillon watches. In the month of August Thomas Prescher welcomes visitors to his atelier in Twann, Switzerland. At his Facebook page he posted this offer, a tour and the possibility to discover yourself how a timepiece is developed, produced, assembled and regulated from scratch. Or from raw pieces of metal to pure horological art. This is an opportunity I couldn’t resist of course!

Ian Skellern, a well known journalist on Haute Horlogerie, was so kind to help me organize this trip and will be joining me for most of the visits. Ian writes for several magazines and websites and is the moderator of several forums at Revolution Online, the former Horomundi forum.

Monday morning we will visit Peter Speake-Marin, a great watchmaker and a true gentleman. Last year Speake-Marin presented his new, self developed, movement, calibre SM2. Developing a movement isn’t a small thing, however for a small independent watchmaker it’s an immense tour-de-force. The first watches who carried this beautiful and robust movement where the Piccadilly 1 in 12 Limited Edition.

Later that day the tour continues to La Chaux-de-Fonds where Greubel Forsey have their spectacular new manufacture. And even more spectacular are their timepieces. Their watches are not only impressive from the outside (look at the case of the Tourbillon 24 Secondes or the Quadruple Tourbillon) but the movement and degree of finish is also very impressive.

And the tour continues, as do the visits to the most impressive watchmakers of these times. Kari Voutilainen, a Finnish watchmaker living in Switzerland and creator of one of the most beautiful dress watches i have ever seen, the Observatoire. The case, dial, hands and the Observatory calibre Peseux… sheer beauty. Of course Kari Voutilainen creates more beautiful watches like this magnificent Decimal Repeater No 8.

De Bethune is an independent watch brand and they are technologically very innovative. And let’s be honest… the design is some models is also on the cutting edge of innovation. Just take a look at the pherical moonphase and how the movement is visible at the dial side. I was so lucky to try this De Bethune DBS on my wrist at a local watch-store. A rare opportunity as watches of De Bethune are hard to find.

And the tour goes on…. Hautlence will release the new HL2.0 at the coming watch fairs, but maybe we get the chance to make some live photos of their new masterpiece. Of course I hope to see some of their older models, which i think are absolutely stunning.

The last day of my trip to Switzerland will be another day of visiting the most beautiful independent watch brands. URWERK is a brand I have written much about in the past and I’m very curious if there’s maybe some news. Especially because the production of the 103 collection will stopped soon. Here’s a photo of the URWERK 103T Tarantula that I made during Baselworld 2009. The best way to see a watch is on the wrist

Ladoire, a new independent watch brand, was established in 2007. During Baselworld 2010 we met for a brief moment and I got to see the some of their watches. After this trip I’m sure I can tell you much more… and show some photos.

The last independent watch brand I will visit is MCT Watches. The design and the way to show the time is incredibly smart and innovative. Recently I wrote about the Sequential One‘s design and innovative way to display time. And if you’re too lazy to read… there’s always the video Check it out!

Pretty soon they will launch an the Sequential One All Black, so hopefully I will get to see it. But for now… a wristshot of the Sequential One in rose gold.

Visiting independent watchmakers is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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You want to win a beautiful leather watch holder? Go to the Ebel Facebook page and answer the questions of the contest. From August 16th to August 20th they will post one question a day. Answers to the questions can be found at the Ebel website or the Facebook page.

Another good reason to take a closer look at the Ebel is the new Ebel Classic Hexagon Large Date. To be honest, until now the only Ebel i really paid attention to, is the 1911 series. The new Classic Hexagon looks like a very nice dress watch that for me would meet all requirements for daily use. It looks good, both with suit or jeans and the large date is a very nice feature.

Ebel choose for a decent size of 41mm and did not follow the popular big-bigger-biggest hype. It wouldn’t suit this kind of watch I my opinion. Both the silver dial and black dial version look classy and sporty, however the silver dial version’s hour markers and Ebel logo in a rose gold color, make this version look very chic. And with a thickness of only 10.5mm it’s probably very comfortable on the wrist.

Another nice detail is how the strap integrates in the case. The photo above show how nice and smooth they’re integrated. The crown is slightly recessed which prevents the crown from digging in your wrist and also works as a crown-protector. The Classic Hexagon Large Date features the typical Ebel case and comes with a polished bezel.

Inside ticks an ETA 2896 automatic movement. Nothing exceptional, but a very good and reliable movement. Also something that seems to be more standard than 10 years ago, is the use of a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. And to finish it of in style, the leather strap is secured by a folding clasp.

Don’t forget to visit the Ebel Facebook page and answer the questions! You’ve got until tomorrow, so be fast.

Ebel give-away on Facebook is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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This limited edition of the 3-Timer is seriously limited… only 9 pieces of each color! If you’re not familiar with the Linde Werdelin multi timezone watches you can read my reviews. In January of this year Linde Werdelin gave me a 2-Timer for an extensive test and last year I reviewed the 3-Timer.

The launch of this Linde Werdelin 3-Timer special edition coincides with the Grand Prix in Singapore. The model name is engraved in the caseback. The other difference with the ‘normal’ 3-Timer are the two color variations. Personally I really like the 3-Timer as an all-round sports and out-door activities watch. And now I really like the yellow version!

The details of the special edition are nice, colored screws, colored indexes on the rotating bezel and a dotted racing strap. It comes in yellow and red…. both 9 pieces, so be quick.

Linde Werdelin 3-Timer Racing Series is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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From the start, Hautlence has created rather unusual looking watches. Although the first models used the conventional and super reliable Peseux 7001 as base caliber, nothing was conventional about the Hautlence HL and HLs collections. The new HL2.0 takes it even a step further. They call it their ‘Second Philosophy of Timekeeping’….

The Hautlence HL2.0 is a small wonder of technique and design. Not only visually innovative, but technically it’s also offering some very interesting innovations.

The photos of the HL2.0 are made by Malik Bahri. Just look at how the crystal is wrapped around the beautiful “dial” and movement.

The  development of Hautlence’s HL2.0 new movement is unique. In synergy with engineer-consultant Philippe Ruedin, Hautlence created an “open source” development path, which gave independent brands the opportunity to work on a common base movement, the ASXP 1300 movement, making it easy to customize. The base of the movement was redesigned in-house by Hautlence to meet the requirements for this new ‘Philosophy of Timekeeping’.

The hours are on a 12-link chain (see photo below) that moves every hour… But there’s more… much more! To ensure that the system has enough power, no less than four dedicated mechanism have been developed to manage the speed regulation, including an inertial friction system, a one way 360° rotation control system, and a dedicated barrel to provide power to the complications. Hautlence developed its own automatic winding movement with dedicated wheels with optimized gear teeth shapes. But the most remarkable is that the complete escapement system (including the plate, bridges and wheels) moves to counter balance the effects of gravity on the movement’s precision. This is a first in watchmaking history!

The entire escapement assembly of the HL2.0 moves with the jumping of every hour. Driven by the motion of the hour chain, the escapement assembly will move to a new position ever hour, jumping 60° from its former position, in an axis parallel to the wrist. This means it makes four complete rotations every single day! Even if the watch is not worn, the movement of the escapement itself will balance negative effects of gravity on the precision of the watch. On the photo above you can see the escapement assembly to the right of the hour-chain and above the rotating weight of the automatic winding system.

A connecting rod system guides the rotation to control acceleration and deceleration, allowing the hours to jump smoothly. The jumping hour chain is driven by a lever system (see movie), with a one way 360° rotation control system, the chain moves smoothly without any interruption, requiring just two seconds to jump to the next hour.

The third module is the speed regulator which controls the energy. And how does it work? Well, first you need to know that a dedicated barrel supplies the energy to move the escapement and jumping hour chain. The barrel starts to deliver energy when the retrograde minutes jump back to zero, using the lever and a star assemble system to free a 360° rotation mechanism. During that rotation, to control the speed of rotation, a speed regulator with inertial friction is started and controls the motion of the system. This allows the hour to jump in just two seconds.

If you’re interested you can look at the HAUTLENCE website and keep posted on the latest news via the HAUTLENCE Facebook page.

The spectacular new HAUTLENCE HL2.0 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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I just stumbled across this information about the Vicenterra GMT-3. Most information i can find is in French, except for a information leaflet on the Vicenterra Watch Facebook page… for the rest I haven’t heard of Vincent Plomb before.

This Viceterra looks very nice i must say. It’s one of the watches that made me looks twice… and again. However, the pictures are only computer renderings, so no real watch or photos yet. The project will start when at least 100 persons committed to buying one. They will get it for 5,000 CHF. After the special edition of 100 numbered watches, the GMT-3 will be available for 15,000 CHF.

This mechanical watch tells the time, has a GMT hand, a day & night indicator, a date and…. something that triggered me to look again. A spherical Earth that rotates around it’s axis and it looks cool.

When looking at the dial we see not only an hour, minute and second hand. On the dial there much more to see and even from the side of the case we get to something interesting. Above the hour, minute and second hands telling the time,  is a day & night indicator with a classical sun and moon. Roughly around the 2 o’clock position is a date indicator with a retrograde hand. In the middle of the date index, the dial is open showing a small part of the ETA 2892 movement.

But than the really interesting part begins… At the 5 o’clock position is a spherical Earth that rotates around it’s axis in 24 hours. A detail that I really like is that the spherical earth is also visible through holes in the side and back of the case. It looks like it’s almost floating in the case, besides the dial.

Moving a bit further towards the 7 o’clock position, we see the GMT hand with a 24 hour index. At the top is the 12 position and at the bottom 24; 6 AM and PM are at the left and right, where usually 9 and 3 are. The GMT hand can be set via a pusher at the left side of the case, at 9 o’clock.

The movement is called REA-GMT-3, which is based on a caliber ETA 2892. This is of course a well known, very reliable which is used by many other watch brands. On top of that is a module developed by Vicenterra. Since the ETA 2892 tells the time and date, the module probably has all the gears for the second timezone, the day & night indicator, the retrograde date and the spherical Earth revolving in 20 hours.

All together the design looks classic with a modern twist. Unfortunately there’s no information about the size of this watch, so I hope it will remain within wearable size ranges. The case will be made of stainless steel and it’s supposed to have two strap choices, leather or rubber.

The Vicenterra GMT-3 starts as a watch with a subscription. The first 100 subscribers who support the project by Vincent Plomb will reserve the Vicenterra GMT-3 for 5,000 CHF (around € 3,800). After the first 100 pieces are sold the price will be 15,000 CHF (or € 12,300). Subscribers will even get some shares in the share capital of the new company to build VicenTerra Watch SA. Well, if you’re interested, take a look at the Viceterra Watch Facebook page.

I think this is an amazing way to start up a new company and with a beautiful and beautifully complicated watch as well.

New brand? Check out the Vicenterra GMT-3 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Recently a friend mailed me about a watch that was for sale at a local watch store. He knoww I have a weak spot for mono-poussoir chronographs. The watch was a Roger Dubuis Hommage Mono-poussoir in white gold with a salmon color dial. A salmon color dial is not my usual pick, but this one was so beautiful….

On the wrist the dial just suits the entire watch perfectly and i wouldn’t change anything about it. The engraving of the dial is absolutely stunning. It’s incredibly complex, yet absolutely not ‘loud’. This watch has all the ingredients I like, a mono-poussoir chronograph, an absolutely stunning movement which is superbly finished, classic yet not too convential design, details that will keep me intriguiged and it’s made by an independent watchmaker.

Now I realized this was not the first Roger Dubuis I fell in love with. The other one was an advertisment in a watch magazine I have seen several years ago, when i just started to get into watches. The advertisement showed a man sitting at a table with a newspaper and a cup of coffee. On his wrist was the Roger Dubuis Golden Square Tourbillon with roman numbers. Unfortunately I can’t find any photo of that particular advertisement.

Of course at that time I had no idea what an independent watchmaker was, let alone who Roger Dubuis was. Luckily I found my way to this ‘niche’ in the watch industry. And a niche it is. Most watch aficionados/collectors are not really familiar with the name and fame of independent watchmakers. With the small production number and small advertisement budgets this actually does not come as a surprise. When I visited the watch-store to take a look at the beautiful Hommage Mono-poussoir, I was surprised to see they had two more Roger Dubuis watches!

All three models are from the Hommage collection, which is the first collection be be produced by manufacture Roger Dubuis. The brand Roger Dubuis is named after watchmaker Roger Dubuis who build this brand together with Carlos Dias. Dias, as founder, owner and designer, had a goal to create a manufacture that was completely independent. He succeeded and every single part of the produced watches where produced in-house.

Roger Dubuis was responsible for the technical aspects. Before joining Dias, Dubuis founded his own aterlier in 1980 after developing complications for Patek Philippe. Dias named the manufacture after his friend and business partner Roger Dubuis.  And as a tribute to Dubuis, he named the first line Hommage.

In August 2008, the Richemont Group bought the manufacture Roger Dubuis, but they will continue to manufacture and distribute watches under the ‘Roger Dubuis’ name. Now back on topic… I was totally amazed to see three models of the Roger Dubuis line at my local watch-store. Absolutely rare watches, because Roger Dubuis produced only 28 pieces of every dial/case combination!

Below is the Roger Dubuis Hommage, a time-only model. Check the Roger Dubuis website to see the entire collection; you can view both the original collection and the current collection. This style-icon below is 40mm in diameter and made of rose gold. Inside is the in-house designed and produced calibre RD14. This automatic movement has 48 jewels and 171 parts in total. With a frequency of 4Hz (or 28,800 bph) it runs for 48 hours without being wound.

All movements used in Roger Dubuis watches bear the Poincon de Genève or Geneva Seal  as proof of the superb quality and finish. At the Roger Dubuis website you can view a very nice short movie about the quality and in-house production of the movements.

Also very interesting is the interview with Carlos Dias, The PuristS Pro did with him some years ago.

If you like to know more about the watches above, visit the watch-store’s website.

Rare Roger Dubuis watches is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Horomundi’s moderator Ian Skellern recently visited Martin Frei, one of the co-founders of URWERK and chief designer, at his atelier in Zürich. Ian, who’s moderator of the URWERK forum at Horomundi, posted an extensive report of his visit which is well worth reading and viewing, however be warned because it got tons of photos. In an additional post he shows several wristshots of the UR-CC1 (nickname Cobra) on Martin’s wrist. Here are a a few of the photos and if you like to see more, i recommend to check them out at Horomundi’s URWERK forum.

It wasn’t until now, before i realized I never posted photos of this intriguing, retro-style, high-tech wristwatch. I’ll make it up to you in another post!

URWERK Cobra CC1 on the wrist is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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