It pays to be naughty sometimes.

Especially this time.

Here is McCall’s 6700.

“For Moderate Stretch Knits Only”

I had sewn the pattern before and didn’t see anything stretchy about it…… and I had to have this Blue Tie-Dye Silk Crepe de Chine Border Print from Mood Fabrics…… and I had to make this maxi dress in this silk. At 5’2” I rarely wear border fabrics and I knew this was my chance.

It’s been a long time since I broke the rules, but I think it was worth it

Indeed – a perfect dress for Memorial Day or Fourth of July.

I think it would look great with a big bowl of cherries, an armful of sunflowers, or even better walking along the beach – my hope is to wear this dress all summer long!

This is quite the easy pattern with four pattern pieces (five if you include the back ties). The neck and armholes are finished with a narrow hem rather than a facing or lining. Having made the dress once before (blogged here) I knew what issues I would face with the upper bodice popping open, and overlapped the upper front and back bodice an extra inch and a half to solve the problem.

After sewing the dress in this luscious crepe de chine, I’m still not sure why the pattern was designed for moderate knits only!

I guess one could say I got away with it, but maybe I should have had my wrists slapped for taking a chance with this beautiful silk. It is perfect for just about any garment with its lovely drape and soft hand! Editor’s note: The fabric that Sarah chose here is from our collection of delicious prints and solids from designer Thakoon, available at Mood LA, Mood NYC and online. Her tie-dyed border print is a favorite of Mood staff and customers alike. Click here to see how Thakoon used this fabric in his Thakoon Addition spring 2012 collection.

Best wishes for a safe and fun-filled Memorial Day weekend!

For my second post this month I decided to make something completely different: a Forties day dress for my “identical cousin” Cathy Lane.  (I’ll finish my gray suit next month — promise.)

At Mood I found the most gorgeous silk charmeuse with what look like parrot tulips in orange tones set against a background of deep purplish-blue — a very Forties-style print and palette. Editor’s note: We have loads of floral silk charmeuses online and in our two stores. Here’s a pretty blue-and-green stretch silk charmeuse.

I chose this wonderful WWII-era Simplicity pattern from my pattern stash: a simple day dress with a draped surplice bodice attached to a four-piece skirt that’s gathered in front.  I decided to make the version on the right with the short tulip sleeves:

Silk charmeuse can be challenging to work with and I ended up using a yard of silk organza to underline the sleeves, to interface the bodice facings, and to stay the back (see pic below).   I learned a lot working on this project: in particular, to cut charmeuse on tissue paper to prevent it from shifting.   And silk pins, lots of silk pins!  Editor’s note: Placing an old bed sheet or large piece of fabric on your cutting table, then laying your slippery fabrics atop it, also gives you better control when cutting out wiggly fabrics.

Also at Mood, I bought a yard of classic black Russian veiling to adorn Cathy’s vintage hat.  Veiling is romantic and softens one’s features a bit.

A few more pics of the dress (Cathy had just been hat shopping, as you can see):

My cousin received so many compliments on our photo shoot and even — no joke — one business card.  Then again, she is a professional model.

Thanks for reading!

Let’s start out with my first fabric choice, Mood’s Robin’s Egg Blue/White Stripe Jersey Knit

Next is Mood ‘s Navy Silk Knit

and my third choice an Emerald rayon, which is sold out but you can find a wide selection of colors at Mood’s Rayon Jersey section.

My first top is from the striped knit and I wanted a stand-out type of pattern for it.  It is McCall’s pattern 6752, with several options in length, sleeve, neckline variations and a zipper insertion in the ruched band (my favorite). The knit was beautiful to sew and the zipper insertion went together effortlessly.  The front of the band is the only ruching or gathering to the zipper.  I did use a longer zipper and just cut it to off after sewing on the band. Thanks to my Instagram friends, I went with the aqua zipper (majority choice)  instead of the red.  Thanks, friends, a much better look for this top.  Here is a close-up of the zipper and the gathering.

I did add an inch to the bodice to keep the top from being to short.  One thing I know for sure, another knit will be ordered to make the dress from this view, I love it!

One thing you do need to watch on this pattern is the neckline, which is wide, more of a boat-neck shape.  Next time, I will sew those seams up just a bit more.

This top will be one of my favorites of the summer. I love the feel of the fabric and the style of the pattern. Just wait, you might see many more tops and dresses from this pattern.

Let’s move onto the Navy Silk jersey, a fabulous fabric which needs a simple pattern.  I ordered this navy silk jersey after seeing a navy 3/4 sleeve top with white jeans and accessories on Pinterest.  I thought what a classic, chic and timeless look with little effort and decision-making.  My pattern for this fabric is an all-time favorite,  Simplicity 4076. I cannot even count the number of times I have made this pattern. I love the gathered neckline, the fit and all the views.  This silk jersey is perfect for the top and I love the feel of this fabric.  Navy is such a classic color and I have so many things to wear with this color.  Plus, the silk in combination with the knit makes this such a luscious fabric.

Now check out the gathers at the neckline: I used my coverstitch machine to fasten the neckbinding down.  It does flatten the gathers but I am okay with that, I like the look of the coverstitch.

Last but not least is the emerald rayon (Pantone’s color of the year) with that perfect drape and hand.  I wanted a pattern that would not cling but show the drape of this fabric.  I had a style in mind and found it closest in Hot Patterns Fast & Furious Fiesta Knit top but with many alterations.

The top has so much extra room, large batwing style sleeves and too much fabric in the front – all this my opinion but many reviews state the same thing.  The one thing going for it was the initial style was what I wanted.

I made the top as the pattern stated, tried it on and thought, “wow, this needs lots of work!”  I redrew the underarm sleeve to eliminate many inches from the sleeves and side seams.  Another change, was unsewing the band and removed the extra fabric from the front.  As you can see in the above picture, there is still a bit too much material.  The pattern has a curve in the front with the deepest part of the curve in the center front.  I feel this makes the top look maternity-style and in the future I will make the front more of a straight line.

What do I think of this top?  Well, I love, love the fabric it has a wonderful feel and color is perfect.  The pattern needs work and I still might take off the band and cut off some more of the curve.  I do know I feel great wearing this top and I like my end results from the pattern.  Isn’t that why we sew, to make things perfect for us?  I see more rayon jerseys heading to Missouri and a few more revisions on this pattern.

I have always enjoyed sewing knit tops, they are quick but have such satisfying results. I did have some extra robin’s egg blue/white stripe knit and thought the grandson needed a little onesie.  I added red binding and embroidery with cars.

Notice the label: I didn’t think the little guy needed a “Girls in the Garden” label so I ordered “Boys on the Farm” labels.

After using stretch polyester lace a few months ago, I decided to try some cotton lace for a summer dress for Rachel. This fabric is from Mood and has a nice weight to it – not too heavy but substantial enough for a dress. It was very easy to work with and ironed well. Of course, being lace, it needed some type of underlining. I tried it atop lots of different colors and finally chose a dark teal cotton.

I chose a simple pattern for this dress in order to show off the lace. I cut a 1/2 for the width and a 1 for the length – just like the last dress I made for her – but it is a little big. Apparently I am still learning toddler sizing.

Finding buttons to match this aqua color was just about impossible. I did find some aqua flower buttons that matched but did not want to sew flower buttons over floral lace. Then I had an epiphany and decided to do contrasting brown ones. The ribbon belt brought in more brown and I love the little bow in the front.

I sewed all of the underlining to the lace first, then constructed the dress as instructed. Because the collar has 4 layers to it – lace and underlining times two – I left off the interfacing. The hardest part of making clothes for little people is always setting those tiny sleeves into the tiny armholes. It’s not the fabric ease that’s hard for me, it’s getting my machine foot in there. I always get poked with my pins a bunch of times during this step.

I really like the peeks of dark fabric that can be seen at the sleeves or hemline when my daughter wears her dress.

The inside seam allowances were trimmed to about 3/8″ and finished with the overlocking stitch. When I sewed on the ribbon belt, I used brown thread in the machine and aqua in the bobbin to keep all the inside threads the same color.

I used Simplicity 2907. This is a pattern I bought several years ago, then wondered why I’d purchased something so plain. It worked really well for the fabric, though. I doubt I’ll be using it again since the sizing is so loose on her and I’m not in love with any of the other views.

If I look self satisfied, IT IS BECAUSE I AM.  The reasons are twofold:

1. I conquered this cotton.

2. I conquered myself.

I CONQUER, YO.  I AM A CONQUISTADOR OF COTTON.  (that may not mean what I think it means, but I’m going with it.  I have a sazerac in hand and no desire to use my dictionary widget.)

Last month, I decided to try my hand at what my fellow Mood Sewing Network bloggers are old hat at: ordering online from MoodFabrics.com. Within a minute, I stumbled upon this Thakoon cotton, and these decorative coconut shells. It is almost certain that I would not have paired these two up had I been in the store– if only because the coconut shells are placed about 5 feet in the air above my head, and I rarely look up that high. Nothing of note is taller than my 5’3 frame, you see.

Except these rooftop shoots….

THOSE are taller.  The images don’t do the edge of the building  justice.  That’s a steep ramp right up to a free fall on a windy day.  FUN.  And, quite dangerous.  I thought the location fitting, considering the vicious way I started this garment.  One breezy saturday afternoon, Ruggy caught me chopping– literally chopping-- into four yards of this luscious stuff.  Oona, he said, don’t cut angry.   I was angry–irate, in fact, for reasons which are boring and not worthy of telling.  Suffice it to say the sound of my shears gave my mood away.

And he was right: Don’t. Cut. Angry.  The reasons for this are twofold:

1. You might hack off a finger.

2. You will most definitely cut into what was an ample amount of designer cotton, forgetting that you needed six panels instead of four for the sweeping maxi skirt.  You will insanely and wantonly cut three on the bias. You will then spend the next five days trying every possible combination to make the five panels you eked out work in some strange jigsaw puzzle configuration.

But then of course you’ll be totally full of yourself when you DO.

Hey didja notice those bust darts?  ME NEITHER! I would say I planned it that way, but I don’t like to lie.

Truth be told, I’m even okay with the back, which was where the real jigsaw came in. The bodice is a vintage Vogue pattern, and the six-come-four gored skirt is of my own drafting. I used two bias cut panels for the center front and back, and two regular joes for the side panels. However, the center back panel was sliced up the middle to accommodate the invisible zip–in hindsight I should’ve done a slash zip opening, but I was still a little peeved and not thinking correctly…one might even say, still angry…

I am nothing if not hard headed.  Was counting on that fact, in case of a skyscraper fall.  By the way, does my dress remind you of anything?  Any New Yorkers out there care to hazard a guess on Thakoon’s inspiraton?  I don’t know for sure if my hunch is right, but let’s just say I found the city view… appropriate…

Editor’s note: Click here for our collection of scrumptious prints from designer Thakoon, who is known as a master of prints. We think these fabrics are so perfect for your spring and summer sewing.

This month for the Mood Sewing Network I’m making myself a suit!  The fabric I’ve chosen is a luxurious gray cotton-mohair suiting, made in Italy, and purchased at Mood Fabrics NYC.  It has a somewhat firmer hand than lightweight tropical wool suiting but feels a bit more casual (due to the cotton), and has a beautiful sheen. Editor’s note: MoodFabrics.com has a ton of suiting fabrics. We actually sell more menswear fabrics than you realize!

I decided to make the trousers first (as recommended in my suit-making books) and the jacket second.  That way you’re more experienced working with the fabric when you take on the greater challenge of a tailored jacket.

The pants have side slant front pockets and two double-welt pockets in back.  For pocketing I used sturdy gray cotton shirting I had on hand.  I used commercial waistbanding for the inside waistband and a metal YKK zipper in the fly.  I used the same pattern as last month for the white linen pants.

Given the splendid quality of the fabric, I decided to splurge on professional buttonholes (done at Jonathan Embroidery, just one block north of Mood, on 38th St.) and I’m very happy with the results.  They cost just a few dollars but really raise the level of the finished garment.

The pants are already hemmed but I haven’t yet pressed the crease: I’m still undecided about the final length.  Some people may find these a little short; I think shorter is sportier but I’m not sure.  There’s a trend toward shorter hems for men, especially in summer suits, but maybe that works better with a narrower leg than these pants have.  (I find very narrow legs unflattering and confining.)

I have to see how the pants look with the jacket before I make up my mind.  What do you think?

Will I finish the jacket before the end of the month?  I certainly hope so.  In the meanwhile, I have a very elegant pair of pants to enjoy.

Thanks for reading!

Of course it’s all-purpose!

Mood Fabric’s Ivory Solid Goes with Everything Silk really does go with everything in my closet!

It’s perfect with my re-fashioned floral pants….

party ready with my celebration skirt….

and very practical when combined with jeans for a walk in the park. That’s right – if Kate Spade wears silk to the flea market then I’m wearing silk to walk the dog

I believe I can even take it to a formal level!

Sewing this converted Cynthia Rowley dress pattern (Simplicity 2497) for the fourth time made for easy sewing. Since the ruffle is gathered down the center rather than along the seam line, my ruffler stayed in its box and I gathered it the old fashioned way. I also widened the ruffle along the lower neckline. The arms and neckline were finished with self made bias-strips from the silk fabric, and I hemmed the top by hand to get a truly invisible hem.

Just for fun I’m including the three previous tops from this pattern below.

Each is unique and my latest will certainly find its place in my wardrobe.

I truly love my new top but I don’t know which I love more, the pattern or this wonderful silk. I’ve already re-ordered four more yards!

… A very practical move if you ask me

Fair warning: I’m about to show a LOT of leg.

Don’t say I didn’t warn ya

I made these pin-up style shorty shorts with Mood Fabric’s Marc Jacobs polka dot linen that I bought while I was in the NY store. This stuff is FABULOUS and I really wish I’d bought the whole bolt! This is actually my second garment made using this fabric – the first being Tilly’s Miette Wrap Skirt, for which I originally bought the fabric. I had a small piece left over and I was just barely able to squeeze these shorts out of it, so yay!  Editor’s note: Lots of polka dot fabrics online at MoodFabrics.com for you.

I’ve always wanted a pair of these little high-waisted, super duper short shorts, for wearing during the summer. It gets HOT down here and I am not afraid to run around half-naked (my mom isn’t too thrilled with this, but what can ya do ) in an attempt to stay cool. Linen and polka dots for summer wear – what better combination could exist?

I used the Rite of Spring shorts pattern from Papercut Patterns to make these and I’m pretty happy with how they turned out! I love the curved waist seams (highlighted here with optional piping), the high waist, the way the hem flips out at the sides, and the hem facing at the back. They were very quick to put together and REALLY fun to wear!

I know this style isn’t for everyone – I’m bordering on scandalous at this point – but I just love them! Now I just need some giant platform espadrilles and a big fruity cocktail with an umbrella, yeah?